What a very Buckin' level video! Love the new camera and the close-ups during your sharpening. You had already converted me to a dremel sharpener for my firewood chains because it's so fast. I still use my Oregon grinder for milling chain to keep the angles very true. Thanks for sharing Chris!
Good morning! I’m still sharpening like your brother Kenny. Just a hand file. I have gotten pretty good at it watching videos like yours! Following the angle of the line on the tooth an pulling up as you roll the file is my tip. And as Ken would say watch the tooth edge start to roll and shine consistantly. Having a stable spot and a light when sharpening is a big help too! I am going to get some bits for my dremel and try it as well!👍🏻👍🏻GNI
Thanks Chris this has giving me idea to keep my chains Sharp. I do hand filing a lot and seeing this is great and faster. I used chainsaws to cut logs to lenght for saw logs and trim limbs off when I do land clearing. Knowing Oregon makes the steel grind stone to sharpen which I will use from now on. Have a great day be safe.
Holy macro, that was a nice tutorial chain sharpening video with the dremel and pic. I’ve benefited by adding a battery powered dremel to my field kit for use touching up chain when I’m doing tree work. In the shop, I get my best results using hand files and raker gauge. But I’m not as fast or focused as Chris and occasionally lose my temper even when hand filing.
I still do mine by hand. A vice makes a world of difference when sharpening, I have a simple stump vice when working. I would have to say I like filing it gives me a chance to collect my self and enjoy the work I’m doing. If the teeth are messed up I just swap and fix it later. This would be a great shop tool to have.
No one should question your techniques. Your saws are clearly sharp by the way they go through the logs when you're cutting on a pile. I've added a dremel to my cutting arsenal and use it occasionally. Dave
getting back into the wood biz after retiring! buying logs and starting small again! i like the ultra! modifying my troy-bilt with a bigger motor and pump! increasing my cycle time! thanks for the vids!
Tried this today game changer! To everyone complaining of heat who cares! The chain is disposable anyway. Sharpen it and keep on going. For most people if you can’t afford the extra cost of possibly over grinding or the chain one it a 100 loosing a tooth. You need to look at how much work you getting out of a chain. This guy cuts more wood than 99% of guys watching this. If it works for him it works for me! Thanks for a fast easy method. Most people complaining are probably just wearing their bars out instead forcing it trough trying to get that last bit done before having to sharpen again!
Morning Chris from damp and dark Oregon coast. I have used my Dremel for years to sharpen my chains. Mainly due to a lack of skill with a file according to my brother. Good to see some vindication. Enjoy the entertainment ,thanks.
Thanks for making this video. VERY helpful. I know Oregon makes the best rotary bits out there but I saw some other RUclips videos where people will take a 7/32 Oregon round file and cut it down making their own rotary bits and they last longer than the pre-made bits. Great technique. I have a AC powered Dremel but I think I'll bring my cordless drill with me when I go out and cut....and some files.
Good demonstration of the close up of the edge of the tooth itself. The tooth makes the chain and the chain makes the saw. I'm still the old school, hand-held rat tail file, but then I'm into wood cutting for the experience, so production, or even speed it not the goal. If I were to be a full-time super woodsman like yourself, I would be 100% into this method. Great video.
This is honestly the best and the fastest way of sharpening a chainsaw. I tried all kinds of devices, and I just couldn’t get it right…. Some tools take forever. Thanks for your suggestion!
Thank you for doing this video. I have tried the Oregon files and the Stihl multi tool on my Oregon chains without much success. I will break out my Dremel tool and order. The 7/32 tips today.
The other advantages i see are you don't have to tighten/take out the slack prior to filing cos you can hold the chain with one hand, you don't have to put the blade in the vice, and you don't seem to have to turn the machine around but can work from one side only!! Great if I've understood ok. On the other hand I've learned that neither these stones nor files last long 3-4 jobs!!😢
Great video,I've been using the dremal for years, works great, then every now and then I'll grind them on the bench sharpener just to get the angle true again and lower the rakers a bit.
G’morning Chris. I’ve switched to my Dremel I got from my dad. The deluxe wood box set. Great viddy w/ the camera work (you look like you know a little bit). Really like all the work you put in ! THANK YOU. GoodNightIrene
At the end of the day some folks like to kick back and take the edge off. Conversely, some of us like to take time to put the edge back on! It’s always good to be sharp and ready. 🙌🏼
Thanks for the sharp tips Chris. I bought a dremel after our visit. I use it at home when I'm getting ready to go out cutting. I bring my stihl 2 in one tool into woods for clean up.
this was a great video, can you tell me where to buy the dremal attachment? Also what king of camera do you use now? thanks in advance. Have a great day.
Excellent camera work getting up close & personal on the chain's cutters... I'm new to your channel & I almost hate to leave a comment on someone else's techniques on sharpening a tooth, gullet & rake... The Oregon tooth sharpener for the Dremel tool is a great idea that appears to work beautifully...The only thing I would do a little differently is your angle of approach with the cutter file, i.e. just like you do your rakes, doing the RH tooth rake coming in from the left, the Dremel tool file should be done the same way, if not, your angles were NOT consistent...When done, flip the saw around & do the LH teeth coming in from the right, this all but guarantees a consistent angle going straight in & with a little upward pressure too. I'm not criticizing here, it's just an observation based on what I can see from the camera angle used... Overall I'm quite impressed with your technique here as I'll be on the lookout for these Dremel #28441, 7/32" tooth sharpeners that I would also need for my 3/8" chains using 7/32" files...I'm always searching out a better way to sharpen my teeth & really like this method, when in the field I do it by hand, in the shop I can use my corded 3000 Dremel for this procedure... This was one of the better demo's I've seen yet on chain sharpening, correctly cutting the gullet & just as importantly, checking the raker height, very well done sir... Bill on the Hill, Vermont, USA... :~)
Thanks Bill, I used to go from one side and then switch to the other, but I get great results this way now, the camera angle is deceiving, my chains cut straight and fast. You should try it, you will like it! Thanks for watching William!
Great video and instruction. Incredible resolution with new camera. When are you going to do a video on your photography gear and editing equipment. Would like to see the equipment doing the work that makes theses videos so good.
trying to understand which way the dremel should rotate relative to the tooth. Noticed on your vid you're grinding with the tooth on the left side of the stone. - which probably causes the burr on top. But then at the end you showed your usual setup which, I think, would be grinding on the right side of the stone. Does it not matter? grinding into the tooth vs away from the tooth?
Because it works better to file from the "open" side. the depth gauge and file will chatter and not file easy on the opposite side. Just try it and you will notice the difference right away.
I’ve tried the dremel and the two in one files. Can’t seem to get on as well with them as I can a hand file and bench grinder. I use a hand file after each tank of fuel to keep the chain in tip top condition and the bench grinder if I’ve hit something and really dulled the chain. At the end of the day, I guess it’s just everyone’s personal preference on the tool of choice
If you cut enough it would pay, I do not think it would even for me, I payed about $17 a 24" chain for 15 of them this year at the logging show. If I buy them at the box store or a dealer they are $25-30 each.
What are your thoughts on buying bulk chain and making your own loops? Great video, I started using a dremal because of your recommendation and love the results.
@@kevinkeller1645 then buy the bulk chain I'd say. I do a similar amount every winter and like being able to make my own chains. Idk what a new 24 inch chain runs but someone told me a few days ago they were around 35 bucks. I can make them for under 20 bucks.
Hello, I'm originally from Kingsville now retired in Arkansas, Matt Logan at Edward Jones is still my investor. Lot of rocks down here on ranch and diamond dremel only way lol
Nice video. New camera gets you up close and personal. I will grind a damaged chain but still like to file (mostly by feel) when only a touch up is needed. Everybody has their personal preference. GNI
I tried the Dremel method a couple of days ago.while was sharpening, I noticed. If you have the chainsaw bar facing you. The grinding stone and the cutter has a little bit of dark space between the the stone and cutters. Before you start grinding. When you start grinding you'll notice that the gap or space starting to disappear. Once that gap is gone. I notice that the cutter were very sharp very sharp. I have watch you used a Dremel in some of videos and I never tried it then until a week a go. Reason my drive beth wore out on my granberg 12 volt sharper. I when to using a file and it tool forever to sharpen a chain them I remember the video where you used a Dremel to sharpen a chain so I pull out my Dremel and went to a ace hardware store and bought a non threaded grinding stone and when to work on my chains. And I wound like to thank you for making the other videos about using a Dremel. But, I think I'll go back to my grenbreg 12 volt sharpener once I find some drive belt. Your used of a Dremel works. But I used to the grenbreg.
There's some missed spelling on my comment. I don't really proof ready commentd. My hand held pc thinks and rewrite some of my works and I hope you'll guess what I met
Have you ever tried a Norton stone? How about a carbide or diamond bit? I know they work good, but will they last long enough to save you money? - I sharpen toward the edge. Don't get so much of that 'wire' edge. - Would the Dremel still work at slower RPM? Some of the teeth got warm enough to change color. That first tooth you marked lost most of its color from warmth. - You've no doubt tried semi chisel chain. How does that compare in cutting and maintenance?
I have not used a Norton of diamond bit ...yet, I would like to! I have only used the Husqvarna and Oregon full chains. They work fine for me. And I have not had any problems with the teeth using the stones on the dremel.
Which exact Dremel do you use and does the attachment you use to sharpen your saws come with it or does it have to be bought separately? I'm looking on Amazon now and would like to order tonight to have it by this weekend. TIA
What kind of chain is that with full rakers on one side and hardly any rakers on the other side, I am not familiar? Maybe just the camera angle and the rakers are on both sides. My chain has the skip tooth, a tooth every third link, which I like. Anyways, nice video!
Chris, are the Oregon bits that you're using the same size as the normal round file that you'd use if you were hand sharpening? I'm interested in trying to sharpen with a Dremel, but don't know what size Oregon bits that I should be buying. Also, could I switch my chains and bars from my 50cc Stihl 261, and switch them so that they'd take the same size chain and file size as my 72cc Stihl 462 uses? It would be nice to be able to just buy one size chain/bar/files for both saws if possible.
I’ve tried the dremel and like it for quick touch ups. A severely damaged chain, like your example, requires a grinder or a lot of filing. To get it right you really need to grind back to where the chrome plating isn’t worn off. Several of the teeth you ground still had missing chrome plating at the very tip, and they will dull quickly. Just my 2 cents for what it’s worth lol. Also, can you provide a link for where you get your dremel stones?
It depends on a lot of things, is the wood clean or dirty, dry or fresh cut, pine or ironwood, did you hit the ground at all, are the rakers to a good height, how fast is the saw (size of engine)..... But maybe a full cord or so.
Nice, I get a lot of questions! The best place for an answer is in the comments, I answer all of the comments every day...for now... so just ask on the next video. With 40K plus views a day and hundreds of comments on the channel I can't give everyone a bunch of individual time so in the comments everyone gets the answers.Thanks!
Have you found that it makes any difference if you go from front to back, or back to front? Meaning pointing to the point on one side and then to the foot the next tooth? I see you were staying on the same side of the chain and alternating the angle Thanks .
If you cut enough you will hit rocks and or nails and one side will take the abuse. Shorter teeth will happen and the sharpness matters way more that tooth length.
It's my understanding that Considerably shorter teeth on one side is what causes the moon cut. Would you agree or is it just a chain that is sharper on one side
Hey Chris, which Dremel tool would you suggest as an all rounder ? The 8000 cordless or the 3000. I’m thinking of getting one after watching a couple of videos of you using them. Cheers
The cordless is okay but does not have the power of the cored one , I recommend both , but if you do not go on location to cut the corded one is better.
Chris, how did you know to go with the 7/32 size instead of the 3/16 size grinding bits? I’m guessing the Oregon chains you’re using are .325 pitch and I’ve always used a 3/16 hand file on mine. I’d love to use the dremel system for this and want to make sure I grab the right size bits. Thanks!
His saws use at least a .050 gauge 3/8 pitch bar and chain. .058 and .063 are also available. They are much bigger teeth than a .325 pitch chain on smaller saws. If you have the packaging for a new chain it should have the correct file size on it
What a very Buckin' level video! Love the new camera and the close-ups during your sharpening. You had already converted me to a dremel sharpener for my firewood chains because it's so fast. I still use my Oregon grinder for milling chain to keep the angles very true. Thanks for sharing Chris!
Good to hear! Thanks for watching!
fo with the buckin shiit
@@jayltd.7030 have an awesome day brother!
@@timbervisions You also Man
Good morning! I’m still sharpening like your brother Kenny. Just a hand file. I have gotten pretty good at it watching videos like yours! Following the angle of the line on the tooth an pulling up as you roll the file is my tip. And as Ken would say watch the tooth edge start to roll and shine consistantly. Having a stable spot and a light when sharpening is a big help too! I am going to get some bits for my dremel and try it as well!👍🏻👍🏻GNI
That is awesome! As long as you keep your chain as sharp as possible, that is what matters, not how you do it.
Thanks Chris this has giving me idea to keep my chains Sharp. I do hand filing a lot and seeing this is great and faster. I used chainsaws to cut logs to lenght for saw logs and trim limbs off when I do land clearing. Knowing Oregon makes the steel grind stone to sharpen which I will use from now on. Have a great day be safe.
Thanks for watching Arthur! Good luck with the sharpening!
Holy macro, that was a nice tutorial chain sharpening video with the dremel and pic. I’ve benefited by adding a battery powered dremel to my field kit for use touching up chain when I’m doing tree work. In the shop, I get my best results using hand files and raker gauge. But I’m not as fast or focused as Chris and occasionally lose my temper even when hand filing.
I still do mine by hand. A vice makes a world of difference when sharpening, I have a simple stump vice when working. I would have to say I like filing it gives me a chance to collect my self and enjoy the work I’m doing. If the teeth are messed up I just swap and fix it later. This would be a great shop tool to have.
Glad you liked it! It does save some time especially for touch ups!
Yup, hand filing is a great way to do it. I just like the time saving a lot with the Dremel.
@@InTheWoodyard Agreed. Your tips, like using the dremel, have been helpful to make my little wood yard more efficient. and productive. Thanks
No one should question your techniques. Your saws are clearly sharp by the way they go through the logs when you're cutting on a pile. I've added a dremel to my cutting arsenal and use it occasionally. Dave
Thanks Dave, as long as your chains are sharp, that is all that matters!
getting back into the wood biz after retiring! buying logs and starting small again! i like the ultra! modifying my troy-bilt with a bigger motor and pump! increasing my cycle time! thanks for the vids!
Sounds great! Get cuttin'!
Thank you for such a great video and teaching us.
You are so welcome!
Tried this today game changer! To everyone complaining of heat who cares! The chain is disposable anyway. Sharpen it and keep on going. For most people if you can’t afford the extra cost of possibly over grinding or the chain one it a 100 loosing a tooth. You need to look at how much work you getting out of a chain. This guy cuts more wood than 99% of guys watching this. If it works for him it works for me! Thanks for a fast easy method. Most people complaining are probably just wearing their bars out instead forcing it trough trying to get that last bit done before having to sharpen again!
Glad it works for you! Keep cuttin'!!!
Great Video Chris. I use the Dremel and the Sthil 2-1 hand file. The 2-1 used to be my go to- now it’s the Dremel
That's awesome, just keep the chains sharp!
Morning Chris from damp and dark Oregon coast. I have used my Dremel for years to sharpen my chains. Mainly due to a lack of skill with a file according to my brother. Good to see some vindication. Enjoy the entertainment ,thanks.
I can sharpen with a file I just don't like how long it takes!
Is oregon getting any atmospheric river action, or is it all north at the border?
Thanks for making this video. VERY helpful. I know Oregon makes the best rotary bits out there but I saw some other RUclips videos where people will take a 7/32 Oregon round file and cut it down making their own rotary bits and they last longer than the pre-made bits. Great technique. I have a AC powered Dremel but I think I'll bring my cordless drill with me when I go out and cut....and some files.
Sounds like a good idea!
Thanks for the video Chris! I'm going to try this on the 372xp.
Good luck Fred! It is pretty easy. Not like hand filing
Thank you for making this video!!
Glad it was helpful!
Good demonstration of the close up of the edge of the tooth itself. The tooth makes the chain and the chain makes the saw. I'm still the old school, hand-held rat tail file, but then I'm into wood cutting for the experience, so production, or even speed it not the goal. If I were to be a full-time super woodsman like yourself, I would be 100% into this method. Great video.
Thanks for watching Phil, just keep it sharp!
This is honestly the best and the fastest way of sharpening a chainsaw. I tried all kinds of devices, and I just couldn’t get it right…. Some tools take forever. Thanks for your suggestion!
Glad I could help! Keep it sharp!
Thank you for doing this video. I have tried the Oregon files and the Stihl multi tool on my Oregon chains without much success. I will break out my Dremel tool and order. The 7/32 tips today.
Glad it helped Charlie!
I used a dremmel I now use a preferred file jig has 2 round files and a raker file built in works good
As long as your chain is sharp, it is all good!
Great video Chris! West Coast Saw makes a great 3/8 depth gauge if you need one.
Thanks for the tip!
The other advantages i see are you don't have to tighten/take out the slack prior to filing cos you can hold the chain with one hand, you don't have to put the blade in the vice, and you don't seem to have to turn the machine around but can work from one side only!! Great if I've understood ok.
On the other hand I've learned that neither these stones nor files last long 3-4 jobs!!😢
Yup, thansk for watching!
Great video,I've been using the dremal for years, works great, then every now and then I'll grind them on the bench sharpener just to get the angle true again and lower the rakers a bit.
Thanks for watching!
Hello Chris, thanks for the great Video. Which 7/32" grinding wheel manufacture do you like best? Thank you, Mike
Thanks...Oregon!
Do you think your chain lifespan is less by using a Dremel vs manual with a 2 in 1
No. When it is sharp it is sharp either way i take off the same material. I hand filed for decades before the rotary tool sharpening.
Outstanding work super easy
Thanks for watching
Funny, people don't know as much as they think. In the mountains of N.h ,,Maine. We have a different way,sorry for not explaining ❤
ok
Good Video Chris. I have used Oregon chains for years.
Yup, they work great for me too!
G’morning Chris. I’ve switched to my Dremel I got from my dad. The deluxe wood box set. Great viddy w/ the camera work (you look like you know a little bit). Really like all the work you put in ! THANK YOU. GoodNightIrene
Thanks Corey! I make the videos just for you!
Thanks again
At the end of the day some folks like to kick back and take the edge off.
Conversely, some of us like to take time to put the edge back on!
It’s always good to be sharp and ready. 🙌🏼
Well said Matt!
Hello Chris I'm just wondering what model dremel this is and is it cable powered or cordless
I am not sure I have 4 of them, they all work well. I prefer cored ones but I do have a battery one also.
Nice! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Always interesting and informative content. Thank you.
Thanks Beer Man!
Thanks for the info. I have never been good with files. I am going to give this a try.
Go for it, good luck!
People think the littlline on the tooth is the limit to were you have stop sharpening but a tree fella told me its the agle indicator for grinding
Yup, that is correct. When the teeth are 2/3 gone it is time to put a new one on.
Is that the correct size there should only be 20% sticking up your file seems too big
Yup it is right.
Thanks for the sharp tips Chris. I bought a dremel after our visit. I use it at home when I'm getting ready to go out cutting. I bring my stihl 2 in one tool into woods for clean up.
Yup, that is a good system !!
this was a great video, can you tell me where to buy the dremal attachment? Also what king of camera do you use now? thanks in advance. Have a great day.
Amazon, gopros and DJI cameras
you can get a copys of dremel at harbor freight for a bought 10.00
Yup.
Now that you have Ben sharpening with a rotary grinder for a good while, what tool and bits do you think works best?
Dremel with Oregon 7/32 Oregon stone bits.
Excellent camera work getting up close & personal on the chain's cutters... I'm new to your channel & I almost hate to leave a comment on someone else's techniques on sharpening a tooth, gullet & rake... The Oregon tooth sharpener for the Dremel tool is a great idea that appears to work beautifully...The only thing I would do a little differently is your angle of approach with the cutter file, i.e. just like you do your rakes, doing the RH tooth rake coming in from the left, the Dremel tool file should be done the same way, if not, your angles were NOT consistent...When done, flip the saw around & do the LH teeth coming in from the right, this all but guarantees a consistent angle going straight in & with a little upward pressure too. I'm not criticizing here, it's just an observation based on what I can see from the camera angle used... Overall I'm quite impressed with your technique here as I'll be on the lookout for these Dremel #28441, 7/32" tooth sharpeners that I would also need for my 3/8" chains using 7/32" files...I'm always searching out a better way to sharpen my teeth & really like this method, when in the field I do it by hand, in the shop I can use my corded 3000 Dremel for this procedure... This was one of the better demo's I've seen yet on chain sharpening, correctly cutting the gullet & just as importantly, checking the raker height, very well done sir...
Bill on the Hill,
Vermont, USA... :~)
Thanks Bill, I used to go from one side and then switch to the other, but I get great results this way now, the camera angle is deceiving, my chains cut straight and fast. You should try it, you will like it! Thanks for watching William!
Nice - new banjo music. Cool choice. 👍🇦🇺🙂
Thanks Tassie, I put it in there just for you!
Sharpening fit rotation have to be towards the edge of the tuht?
I am not sure what you are asking???
The new fancy camera is really cool for the close up shots! After running your saws myself I can attest to their sharpness!! They cut!! GNI
Yes it is a good camera for close ups for sure!
Great video and instruction. Incredible resolution with new camera. When are you going to do a video on your photography gear and editing equipment. Would like to see the equipment doing the work that makes theses videos so good.
Thanks for watching. Up to now my only camera has been a single gopro hero 7 black for all 500+ videos the new camera is a Canon vixia g50.
trying to understand which way the dremel should rotate relative to the tooth. Noticed on your vid you're grinding with the tooth on the left side of the stone. - which probably causes the burr on top. But then at the end you showed your usual setup which, I think, would be grinding on the right side of the stone. Does it not matter? grinding into the tooth vs away from the tooth?
Nope they get sharp and it does it fast...more time for cutting wood!
I'm not to sure about this sharpening method. Seems like the teeth would overheat if your not careful ruining your chain.
Nope, never had a problem, how do you think they sharpen at the factory?? Grinder. Not a file.
When you lowered the depth gauges, why didn’t you file all gauges from the same side of the bar?
Because it works better to file from the "open" side. the depth gauge and file will chatter and not file easy on the opposite side. Just try it and you will notice the difference right away.
Thanks for the reply Chris.
I’ve tried the dremel and the two in one files. Can’t seem to get on as well with them as I can a hand file and bench grinder. I use a hand file after each tank of fuel to keep the chain in tip top condition and the bench grinder if I’ve hit something and really dulled the chain. At the end of the day, I guess it’s just everyone’s personal preference on the tool of choice
As long as you get it sharp that is all that matters.
Great video ...
Thanks!
I was thinking about buying both chain getting set up to make chains. A change for my 28-in bar cost $41.
If you cut enough it would pay, I do not think it would even for me, I payed about $17 a 24" chain for 15 of them this year at the logging show. If I buy them at the box store or a dealer they are $25-30 each.
When using the dremel in the gullet are you applying upward pressure to get the tooth flat across??
yup, just like a I do with a file but it's 5x faster to finish and easier.
What are your thoughts on buying bulk chain and making your own loops? Great video, I started using a dremal because of your recommendation and love the results.
How much wood are you cutting Kevin?
@@lukeh2453 100 full cord with room to grow.
@@kevinkeller1645 then buy the bulk chain I'd say. I do a similar amount every winter and like being able to make my own chains. Idk what a new 24 inch chain runs but someone told me a few days ago they were around 35 bucks. I can make them for under 20 bucks.
Not for me, I get the chains pretty cheap $17@ and I only use about 15-20 a year for now.
I buy 24" chains for $17 each at the logging show.
Thank you mate...
You're welcome!
Like my Dremel. Watched one of your previous vids where you were sharpening,so I went & bought me a 3200( I think) which is cordless.
Great , keep it sharp!
Good morning from Pleasant Hill, MO!! Love the new camera Chris!! Off to the timber!
Thanks for watching!
Hello, I'm originally from Kingsville now retired in Arkansas, Matt Logan at Edward Jones is still my investor. Lot of rocks down here on ranch and diamond dremel only way lol
My concern with those dremel stones is do they reduce in diameter after sharpening several teeth ? Good vid 👍
They are good for 3-4 sharpenings, about like a file.
Where do you get these Dremel grinding stones? Is there a specific manufacturer/model you have had good luck with?
EzzDoo, they are sold out now on Amazon in the 7/32 size.
all good you sharpen well but you really need to stop hitting rocks and rakers are very important
okay!
How many times can you sharpen a chain? I know it depends if you've hit rocks and other things but in general.
Good question, yes it depends but probably on average 10ish I would say.
what size sharping stone for 3.25 ,963 and 3/8 .050 chain
I think that is a 5/32??? Not sure, I do nor use that size chain.
never mind! my question answered later in the vid!
Thanks for watching William!
i was once cuting wood and i cut my toe bleeding like hell had to get iv and stiches
Steel toed boots??? You might want to try some.
Maybe someone else said it but... we all have a weak hand. When sharpening and the motor is "towards" me I give those teeth a couple extra strokes.
With a rotary tool for sharpening your hands are equal.
@@InTheWoodyard Your uneven teeth say otherwise. We always have a dominant hand whether we know it or not.
Nice video. New camera gets you up close and personal. I will grind a damaged chain but still like to file (mostly by feel) when only a touch up is needed. Everybody has their personal preference. GNI
As long as your chain is sharp, that is what matters most!
@@InTheWoodyard Yup!
New camera....excellent!
Thanks Hurf!
what happens if you file your rackers to low
It will grab too much and you can get hurt.
husky or oregon chains?? i've used a few total chains and liked them! other than that i use oregon's
Both! They all cut good.
hi how many times can you sharpen a chain like this cheers ken from kent england
On average 8-10ish depending on the tooth damage.
beautiful well done! very good view here! nice job!
Thanks!
I tried the Dremel method a couple of days ago.while was sharpening, I noticed.
If you have the chainsaw bar facing you.
The grinding stone and the cutter has a little bit of dark space between the the stone and cutters. Before you start grinding.
When you start grinding you'll notice that the gap or space starting to disappear. Once that gap is gone. I notice that the cutter were very sharp very sharp.
I have watch you used a Dremel in some of videos and I never tried it then until a week a go.
Reason my drive beth wore out on my granberg 12 volt sharper. I when to using a file and it tool forever to sharpen a chain them I remember the video where you used a Dremel to sharpen a chain so I pull out my Dremel and went to a ace hardware store and bought a non threaded grinding stone and when to work on my chains.
And I wound like to thank you for making the other videos about using a Dremel.
But, I think I'll go back to my grenbreg 12 volt sharpener once I find some drive belt.
Your used of a Dremel works.
But I used to the grenbreg.
There's some missed spelling on my comment. I don't really proof ready commentd. My hand held pc thinks and rewrite some of my works and I hope you'll guess what I met
I just noticed that I not subscribe anymore. I didn't do unsubscribe someone did and it wasn't me
That is great, now you have a bunch of ways to sharpen!
No worries, I got it!
You can resubscribe, some time youtube just does batch correction and you might have gotten in one. Thanks Frankie!
Have you ever tried a Norton stone? How about a carbide or diamond bit? I know they work good, but will they last long enough to save you money? - I sharpen toward the edge. Don't get so much of that 'wire' edge. - Would the Dremel still work at slower RPM? Some of the teeth got warm enough to change color. That first tooth you marked lost most of its color from warmth. - You've no doubt tried semi chisel chain. How does that compare in cutting and maintenance?
I have not used a Norton of diamond bit ...yet, I would like to! I have only used the Husqvarna and Oregon full chains. They work fine for me. And I have not had any problems with the teeth using the stones on the dremel.
Which exact Dremel do you use and does the attachment you use to sharpen your saws come with it or does it have to be bought separately? I'm looking on Amazon now and would like to order tonight to have it by this weekend. TIA
I have 4 Dremels, they are all good but the 8100 or 8200 series are great. The bits are Oregon 7/32 stone bits for my saw chains, yours may differ.
@@InTheWoodyard is yours cordless or a plug in model?
Good Morning Cris,cold here in Vt,high of 14 degrees,we have snow!
Yes it is cold here too! Perfect working outside weather!
What kind of chain is that with full rakers on one side and hardly any rakers on the other side, I am not familiar? Maybe just the camera angle and the rakers are on both sides. My chain has the skip tooth, a tooth every third link, which I like. Anyways, nice video!
It is just the camera angle, the teeth are equal as are the rakers.
Chris, are the Oregon bits that you're using the same size as the normal round file that you'd use if you were hand sharpening? I'm interested in trying to sharpen with a Dremel, but don't know what size Oregon bits that I should be buying. Also, could I switch my chains and bars from my 50cc Stihl 261, and switch them so that they'd take the same size chain and file size as my 72cc Stihl 462 uses? It would be nice to be able to just buy one size chain/bar/files for both saws if possible.
You would need to find/know the size of your chain but most likely the size is 7/32"
@@InTheWoodyard what size is YOUR chain? My 462 is 3/8 pitch by .050 gauge.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you for watching again Frank!
Your smoking that chain . when you see the burn mark go toward the back of tooth you've burnt it .
I have sharpened my chains like that for about 8 years now and never had a problem ..ever... they always cut great.
Do you feel like you can get it as sharp and consistent as hand filing?
No, better.
@@InTheWoodyard dang! I just ran my first machine grind today, I was actually great for a first but I can hand file better haha
I’ve tried the dremel and like it for quick touch ups. A severely damaged chain, like your example, requires a grinder or a lot of filing. To get it right you really need to grind back to where the chrome plating isn’t worn off. Several of the teeth you ground still had missing chrome plating at the very tip, and they will dull quickly. Just my 2 cents for what it’s worth lol. Also, can you provide a link for where you get your dremel stones?
You are correct! I just get them a t a box store, chain saw dealers should have them too. A 3 pac is $6, Oregon bits.
after a good sharping how many cords can you cut
It depends on a lot of things, is the wood clean or dirty, dry or fresh cut, pine or ironwood, did you hit the ground at all, are the rakers to a good height, how fast is the saw (size of engine)..... But maybe a full cord or so.
Do you check the clearance and top the guides?
Yes I do if it is needed.
Hey Chris! We believe we are in the same area as you. My father in law has a few questions for you.
Nice, I get a lot of questions! The best place for an answer is in the comments, I answer all of the comments every day...for now... so just ask on the next video. With 40K plus views a day and hundreds of comments on the channel I can't give everyone a bunch of individual time so in the comments everyone gets the answers.Thanks!
Have you found that it makes any difference if you go from front to back, or back to front?
Meaning pointing to the point on one side and then to the foot the next tooth? I see you were staying on the same side of the chain and alternating the angle
Thanks .
And... Sometimes after I sharpen I get the curvey cut. Happened today. I'm sure it's uneven filing. How do you avoid that?
I prefer to enter the stone on the back of the tooth myself.
You need to be NOT rocking the bit or file in that way, straight and even as possible. Do you use a vice to hold the bar? That might help.
How much you sell face cord and hole cord in conneticut here usually hole cord 200-225
Face cord (1/3 of a cord) is $110 full cord is $330
What,s important is a New sharp tooth shape. Suggestion: for the concrete teeth damage-blueing will help show proper condition. Tks
ok
It burn , it will weaken the metal tooth
Nope. I have been doing it this way for 10 years now after 30 years of using a file and I have never had any tooth problems....EVER.
I always comment before the video is done and as usual if I waited I wouldnt have had to ask questions.
You are not the only one!
awesome video
Thanks!
Is faster speed on the rotary tool easier or harder?
I think it is easier! But I am weird .
Chris you haven't cut or split any wood are you waiting to use A wood mill to do the work?????
I have been very busy delivering wood I will cut again soon!
Where do i get those $17 chains? What brand are they?
Oregon, in bulk at logging show/conventions.
15:58 You can see the teeth on the left side are much shorter than those on the right. I found this same problem with Dremel sharpening.
If you cut enough you will hit rocks and or nails and one side will take the abuse. Shorter teeth will happen and the sharpness matters way more that tooth length.
It's my understanding that Considerably shorter teeth on one side is what causes the moon cut. Would you agree or is it just a chain that is sharper on one side
That’s a good sharpening a chain for sure
Yup, they cut good.
Yes they sure do I have to do some cutting today with my grand dads old stihl wood boss 028 today did good
Once one gets good at sharpening they realize a new chain is not that sharp
Yes, and you know when a chain NEEDS sharpening too!
When is the 592 supposed to be in?
Jan or Feb.
Hey Chris, which Dremel tool would you suggest as an all rounder ? The 8000 cordless or the 3000. I’m thinking of getting one after watching a couple of videos of you using them. Cheers
The cordless is okay but does not have the power of the cored one , I recommend both , but if you do not go on location to cut the corded one is better.
@@InTheWoodyard that’s great thanks a million 👌🏻
Chris, how did you know to go with the 7/32 size instead of the 3/16 size grinding bits? I’m guessing the Oregon chains you’re using are .325 pitch and I’ve always used a 3/16 hand file on mine. I’d love to use the dremel system for this and want to make sure I grab the right size bits. Thanks!
The 7/32 work great for that size teeth. Give it a try, you will like it!
His saws use at least a .050 gauge 3/8 pitch bar and chain. .058 and .063 are also available. They are much bigger teeth than a .325 pitch chain on smaller saws. If you have the packaging for a new chain it should have the correct file size on it
I felt like I was rite there with you , don't cut any more concrete for us ! Haha
Yes I will try and not cut it again!
I got a Dremel on your recommendation, and I don’t get near the sparks or quick results you do! Here’s hoping I can get more learnin’ today!
I get very few sparks when touching up slightly dulled teeth. They come with added grinding pressure for badly worn/chipped teeth.
Cheers. 🇨🇦
Exactly!
That is because they where real bad and I was taking off a lot.
Nice job Chris. What camera are you using? impressive close ups!
It is a CANON VIXIA G50. Thanks for watching!
hello friend, good morning.its really really nice and beautiful upload. You will be success in your life friend💞💞👍️👩❤️👩🔔
Thank you so much.
How about putting the bar in the vise to hold it steady?
Yes, for hand filing it is better, but for the video and with the Dremel I don't need a vice.