This video was spot on for replacing my GE Washer's drive shaft. My agitator was a little different than the one in the video but I still was able to figure this out. Saved me $500+ bucks. It took me about 3 hrs to do the repair since I cleaned the gunk from the back side of the stainless steel wash tub while I had it apart. I put the washer all back together and when I went to test the washer I was getting 2 beeps once I pushed the start button. I decided to re-check the electrical connections to the motor and board again and learned I didn't fully connect one of the plugs to the motor so save yourself the headache of disassembling a 2nd time and check the electrical connections to the motor and board before proceeding to the next step in re-assembly. Thanks PC Appliance Repair!
When reattaching my new drive shaft to the frame , my screw holes appear to not be threaded. Am I "rethreading " the holes from the top with the screws to cut new threads or do I have a factory defect??
These is a $150-$170 part. I did a video on how to replace the bearing in the mode shifter. The bearing cost $10 or so. Although it takes a little more time it’s not that difficult of a job and saves you a lot of money. It’s the main bearing that typically gets water on it from the main tub seal which should be changed at the same time. Save yourself over $150 and just replace the bearing. Thanks for the video
Ive done this job twice on the same GE washer. my transmission got really noisy after a water leak let some water run down the drive shaft and get into the bearings. The bearing is not water proofed, shame on GE for that. The second time I did the transmisison was more difficult. first, the stainless steel tub would not come out of the machine. With the nut off, the tub just stuck in the machine like it was nailed down. I hit the spindle of the drive shaft within the tub with a hammer, tapping it on each side of the spindle. that let my tub come out. After i got the outer plastic tub assembly out of the machine., the tranmission would not come out of the plastic tub. It had seized inside the metal sleeve that fits into the bottom of the tub. I had to put the tub up on some sawhorses and pound on the spindle to get it to come out. in the process of pounding it out the tranmission broke internally. I had no choice but to keep pounding to get it out. If you can afford it, and if your machine is old, buy a new plastic tub. I did, but wanted to try and rebuild the old transmision with a new bearing, but ruined it because it would not release from the tub. Lastly, i tried to add some permatex to the new seal when i set it into the plastic tub. bad idea. the seal is ribbed, and so is the plastic tub where it accepts the seal. the permatex would not let the ribs mate up, and the seal kept popping out of the tub. I finally figured that out, wiped the seal off, and then put it in and it held. it takes a good amount of pushing to get that seal in. I bought a new tub, split nut, shaft washer and shaft bearing along with a transmission. Im glad i did. the old components were really seized together and very difficult to seperate. The video is fantastic for taking you through the steps. its not a hard job unless your components have seized.
My GE washer model GTWN4250M1WS makes lots of noise spinning. From what I can tell, replacing the tub bearing likely is not even the issue, it's more likely the WH38X10017 mode shifter bearing. I don't think I can handle just replacing the bearing in the mode shifter assembly. But I can get the whole unit and shaft for $75 bucks. If I replace the tub seal, the washer, the mode shifter/shaft assembly, do I even need to bother with the tub bearing? Oh and should I invest in the spanner wrench?
I so need some help!!! My Whirlpool Washer #WTW4616FW1 on spin cycle makes this sound like a jet engine taking off; quiet to super loud but with no grinding noise. I thought it was the bearings until lastnight i took my entire washer apart and ran into not being able to get access to the bearings due to the gear box being all welded closed. I dont know what my next steps are that would diagnose my washers problem to get it back to working condition....People are telling me its the bearings, but i cant get to the bearings, & told them even on the whirlpool website that sells my washers parts, it doesnt even have replacement bearings listed....Im going to wait until i hear from you before i do anything major like ordering wrong parts and putting it back together & it still doesnt work...lol Thanks & look forward to hearing back from you!
Would the reason you would need to replace this part ( mine is Wh38x10017) IS because you only hear a metal grinding noise when it agitates? Thank You for your time.
If your washer is moving across your floor, check to see that the leveling legs are all down on the floor. A lot of times, an appliance rocking around is caused by uneven leveling legs.
remember the nut is reverse threaded. you turn it clockwise to loosen it. and yes, it is put on TIGHT at the factory. you need a hammer and the correct hub nut wrench to get it off. it will surprise you how tight it is torqued.
This washer is the scam of the washers, i rather the old models , in my country this unit is giving us a hard time to both technicians and customers.and it does not wash properly.
This video was spot on for replacing my GE Washer's drive shaft. My agitator was a little different than the one in the video but I still was able to figure this out. Saved me $500+ bucks. It took me about 3 hrs to do the repair since I cleaned the gunk from the back side of the stainless steel wash tub while I had it apart. I put the washer all back together and when I went to test the washer I was getting 2 beeps once I pushed the start button. I decided to re-check the electrical connections to the motor and board again and learned I didn't fully connect one of the plugs to the motor so save yourself the headache of disassembling a 2nd time and check the electrical connections to the motor and board before proceeding to the next step in re-assembly. Thanks PC Appliance Repair!
Couldnt find that hub spanner anywhere. Got a 1-11/16 socket from tractor supply, worked like a charm
When reattaching my new drive shaft to the frame , my screw holes appear to not be threaded. Am I "rethreading " the holes from the top with the screws to cut new threads or do I have a factory defect??
These is a $150-$170 part. I did a video on how to replace the bearing in the mode shifter. The bearing cost $10 or so. Although it takes a little more time it’s not that difficult of a job and saves you a lot of money. It’s the main bearing that typically gets water on it from the main tub seal which should be changed at the same time. Save yourself over $150 and just replace the bearing. Thanks for the video
If I can get the whole assembly for $75, should I just do that? And should I even bother with the tub bearing?
Ive done this job twice on the same GE washer. my transmission got really noisy after a water leak let some water run down the drive shaft and get into the bearings. The bearing is not water proofed, shame on GE for that. The second time I did the transmisison was more difficult. first, the stainless steel tub would not come out of the machine. With the nut off, the tub just stuck in the machine like it was nailed down. I hit the spindle of the drive shaft within the tub with a hammer, tapping it on each side of the spindle. that let my tub come out. After i got the outer plastic tub assembly out of the machine., the tranmission would not come out of the plastic tub. It had seized inside the metal sleeve that fits into the bottom of the tub. I had to put the tub up on some sawhorses and pound on the spindle to get it to come out. in the process of pounding it out the tranmission broke internally. I had no choice but to keep pounding to get it out. If you can afford it, and if your machine is old, buy a new plastic tub. I did, but wanted to try and rebuild the old transmision with a new bearing, but ruined it because it would not release from the tub. Lastly, i tried to add some permatex to the new seal when i set it into the plastic tub. bad idea. the seal is ribbed, and so is the plastic tub where it accepts the seal. the permatex would not let the ribs mate up, and the seal kept popping out of the tub. I finally figured that out, wiped the seal off, and then put it in and it held. it takes a good amount of pushing to get that seal in. I bought a new tub, split nut, shaft washer and shaft bearing along with a transmission. Im glad i did. the old components were really seized together and very difficult to seperate. The video is fantastic for taking you through the steps. its not a hard job unless your components have seized.
My GE washer model GTWN4250M1WS makes lots of noise spinning. From what I can tell, replacing the tub bearing likely is not even the issue, it's more likely the WH38X10017 mode shifter bearing.
I don't think I can handle just replacing the bearing in the mode shifter assembly. But I can get the whole unit and shaft for $75 bucks.
If I replace the tub seal, the washer, the mode shifter/shaft assembly, do I even need to bother with the tub bearing?
Oh and should I invest in the spanner wrench?
I so need some help!!! My Whirlpool Washer #WTW4616FW1 on spin cycle makes this sound like a jet engine taking off; quiet to super loud but with no grinding noise. I thought it was the bearings until lastnight i took my entire washer apart and ran into not being able to get access to the bearings due to the gear box being all welded closed. I dont know what my next steps are that would diagnose my washers problem to get it back to working condition....People are telling me its the bearings, but i cant get to the bearings, & told them even on the whirlpool website that sells my washers parts, it doesnt even have replacement bearings listed....Im going to wait until i hear from you before i do anything major like ordering wrong parts and putting it back together & it still doesnt work...lol Thanks & look forward to hearing back from you!
Did the drive shaft sit flush against the seal after you fastened it to the base?
Would the reason you would need to replace this part ( mine is Wh38x10017) IS because you only hear a metal grinding noise when it agitates? Thank You for your time.
Worked like a charm! That's for your video!
My ge washer is a 121g and the agitator is sealed how do I get it out of the tub?
Great video, thanks! What size spanner wrench do we need?
1 11/16"
Agitator not lifting off
@@kevinholbert5633 sure you have another washer but I had to pull it up with some force knowing this model comes out
Replaced the shaft. All teeth were broke. Now the washer walks violently across the floor, which it wasn't doing before. Any suggestions?
If your washer is moving across your floor, check to see that the leveling legs are all down on the floor. A lot of times, an appliance rocking around is caused by uneven leveling legs.
@@pcappliancerepair leveled the washer and everything looks great. It only walks on last spin cycle. Violently walks!!
My tub and whole unit it sways to hard it’s banging hard it’s not smooth when washing
Yeah that nut does not come off that easy lol
How did you get yours off I'm having the same problem
Either cut thru it with a saw or use a bearingSeparator
@@MixedGoku specific spanner wrench that I had to special order and then used a heavy hammer to get that thing off.
remember the nut is reverse threaded. you turn it clockwise to loosen it. and yes, it is put on TIGHT at the factory. you need a hammer and the correct hub nut wrench to get it off. it will surprise you how tight it is torqued.
Buy a 1-11/16 socket, impact gun lol
Thats not a real gear case.
This washer is the scam of the washers, i rather the old models , in my country this unit is giving us a hard time to both technicians and customers.and it does not wash properly.
What Country are you?
@@Android_Warrior Dominican Republic.
@@TheCHAGO77 : MANGÚ!👍😋😋😋