Fabulous tip! I saw this post in FB also. I made the lower arm a bit longer with shims and it also helps a bit but with this mod there’s much more movement. GREAT!
The factory setup was limiting. Will I use as much as I have now? No - that will be excessive. BUT - while driving this car, it was very common to hit the end of travel. When that happens, you lose traction through the jolt through the chassis. Driving this car since this video was made, it has really improved how the car behaves. To really get more out of it, I believe relocating the shocks higher would be the next step.
@@RoadsideRCyes, any binding is bad, but excessive movement is just as bad. I am running stock hardware on mine, it never looses contact up front (not a stock setup though) and have good amount of travel. BTW loosing traction also on front is part of drifting ;) And adjust up travel limiters on front, so that wheels don’t go higher than chassis plate is. For improvements i recommend to test out 16/90 pinion/spur. I run on epoxy paited concrete, and it is waay more aggressive with acceleration and breaking while having great amount of control over throttle.
What a difference these correct ball studs make! These should have been included in the kit. Hey Troy I've done all the same changes to the steering front end of your s but can't get full lock out of the steering. Not sure if it's something to do with Gyro End Points or it's the servo because it can move far enough by hand just not through turning or end point adjustments. Appreciate all your help and tips. Thank you.
Great mod...i knew from day1 the ball studs were binding but we almost can't get any Associated parts here so.. I've been wondering if i can use other brands like yok or reved...
They will not - Redcat uses different sized balls. I have have not had an issue like this with the Redcat - the balls are fine there. The cups just need "worked" to get free movement.
Can't wait till you post a drive video on the drive difference. As always great video
Thanks!
No video yet, but initial driving is showing an improvement.
Simple, inexpensive mod - my favorite, lol!
Mine too!
:)
Fabulous tip! I saw this post in FB also. I made the lower arm a bit longer with shims and it also helps a bit but with this mod there’s much more movement. GREAT!
Yes - really appreciate the smart folks on the FB group for finding this.
@ Totally agree!
Wont a longer rear arm change the camber gain? and overall handling of the car regardless on how free it makes suspension travel?
@ I don't know. I have never lengthened the rear arms. I don't know how it affects the car.
Excellent video ❤
Thank you very much!
Definitely made quite a bit difference!!
It sure did! And all for a small $$
@@RoadsideRC that makes it even better
So what i reckon with it is that it is not a problem. You don’t need that droop at all.
The factory setup was limiting. Will I use as much as I have now? No - that will be excessive.
BUT - while driving this car, it was very common to hit the end of travel. When that happens, you lose traction through the jolt through the chassis.
Driving this car since this video was made, it has really improved how the car behaves.
To really get more out of it, I believe relocating the shocks higher would be the next step.
@@RoadsideRCyes, any binding is bad, but excessive movement is just as bad. I am running stock hardware on mine, it never looses contact up front (not a stock setup though) and have good amount of travel. BTW loosing traction also on front is part of drifting ;)
And adjust up travel limiters on front, so that wheels don’t go higher than chassis plate is.
For improvements i recommend to test out 16/90 pinion/spur. I run on epoxy paited concrete, and it is waay more aggressive with acceleration and breaking while having great amount of control over throttle.
What a difference these correct ball studs make! These should have been included in the kit. Hey Troy I've done all the same changes to the steering front end of your s but can't get full lock out of the steering. Not sure if it's something to do with Gyro End Points or it's the servo because it can move far enough by hand just not through turning or end point adjustments. Appreciate all your help and tips. Thank you.
Use a longer servo horn
I actually swapped to a longer servo horn to get the full throw. Give that a try!
@@RoadsideRC thanks it’s fairly long now but I’ll see if I have a longer one.
looks a good upgrade that needs to be done
*🦘Au🦘💯full view always📺thumbs up👍happy halloween😎*
Yes, 100%!
Great vid/find Troy! One of the only times in life a thinner shaft will be preferred. Sorry, I'll see myself out. 😂
Ha! You are right.
Great mod...i knew from day1 the ball studs were binding but we almost can't get any Associated parts here so.. I've been wondering if i can use other brands like yok or reved...
As long as the ball dimension is the same - you should be good!
Do you have the servo stoppers installed?
I didn't install or remove them.
@RoadsideRC thanks
Will those work on the RDS as well?
They will not - Redcat uses different sized balls.
I have have not had an issue like this with the Redcat - the balls are fine there. The cups just need "worked" to get free movement.
Do you think this will work for RDS ?
Don't think so - the RDS doesn't have this issue.