I have driven with it a little. It works - no doubt. I mapped the gyro gain to one of the knobs on top of the controller. That works well - but I can't see what gain % I am running. One click up on the controller gives the output map, but there are no numbers - just a general scale. How is yours setup?
@RoadsideRC exactly the same. Almost a bit of guesstimation going on with the actual percent. Also couldnt get it to update the firmware to see if that would change anything.
As usual, great video. My D6 is hold hostage by Post Canada strike. XD10 ESC died last Friday, no firework nothing just died in the middle of the track. Will try the new XR10 Stock Spec G2 tonight. I'm pretty sure this will be good, setting are about exactly the same as XD10 for a lot less money and less weight.
Nice explanation on your build mate Yep i experienced all that Plus a few others i got the fiberglass buget kit Shocks o ring seals on the plastic shocks are to big causing binding i replaced with Traxxas seals no more binding Also my top deck didn't really line either but with a little hole Dremeling fixed that 😁 Worst kit I've built LOL but i enjoyed it i like tinkering ✌️
Interesting! Sounds like the carbon version has a few less problems. Kind of unfortunate since this is geared towards beginners. Either way - it will be good as long as the performance is there!
Hey Troy, according to Nezo Terada at Nez0’s Speed Shoppe, he’d mentioned that a few guys at Strickly Sidewayz Club in Canada had used AW grease on the gasket and mating surfaces on the oil diff to prevent leaking. I plan to do the same on my RMX oil diff too when I get it, though I’ll be using maybe 5k instead of the 100cst oil 3Racing put into the D6 kits.
Don't forget that if you use ANY form of thrreadlocker, only use it on metal to metal contact, like metal screws to metal/aluminum pats. Don't use it with plastics. Plust just a tiny dribble would suffice...don't pour the whole bottle on a single screw...
I won't get the D6 because how 3Racing designed this chassis is questionable, but i thank you for this video to help newcomers to take the best of this chassis. If you are curious why i don't like the D6, here are my reasons: - The suspension arms hinge pin always worked perfectly in many other chassis. Why the need to change? It just limits the travel. - In order to run properly you must grind/cut some parts. That should've been looked during the testing phase (which was probably too short in my opinion). If i were their CEO and watched this video i would be ashamed and just go back and fix those problems for a future D6 version. - Lack of attention to detail. I know it's a cheap chassis but that alone can't explain everything. There's so many little things like the tilted motor mount. The whole chassis screams like it was rushed to be released. - They are blind. What annoys me the most is that 3racing is able to do better than this, but they continue to make the same mistakes from the previous chassis version. As an example they still have issues with the rear lower arms hitting the chassis - a problem i had in the D5MR. Unfortunately i don't see your tips as "tips". It's more like "fixes" to make a faulty product work as intended. It's still a decent entry level chassis after all fixes done tho, however personally i'm done with the 3racing polices.
I do agree with your overall sentiment around being surprised on some of these items. I had the original D5s - and I LOVED that chassis. A few head scratchers on it, but overall a staggeringly strong performer for the $$. I had high hopes for this chassis, and have been surprised with the tweaks needed out of the box. That said - now with those done, it appears to drive very nice!
Flysky G7P!! I'm stoked to see you use it. Its what i use on my redcat rds with a50bhl, 10bl120 g2, yokomo typer, yokomo v4 gyro
I have driven with it a little.
It works - no doubt.
I mapped the gyro gain to one of the knobs on top of the controller. That works well - but I can't see what gain % I am running.
One click up on the controller gives the output map, but there are no numbers - just a general scale.
How is yours setup?
@RoadsideRC exactly the same. Almost a bit of guesstimation going on with the actual percent. Also couldnt get it to update the firmware to see if that would change anything.
That part number for the rear low mount is SAK-D618
Thanks!
Thank you.. Start my build tomorrow.
Awesome! Hope this helps!
Nice job! It is a fun build. Belt cars are cool again.lol
:)
One of my planned mods is to get rid of that belt!
@@RoadsideRC Got the motorplate coming.
3 RACING BINGER ,depuis la sakura d3 😊😊😊😊❤❤❤
As usual, great video. My D6 is hold hostage by Post Canada strike.
XD10 ESC died last Friday, no firework nothing just died in the middle of the track. Will try the new XR10 Stock Spec G2 tonight. I'm pretty sure this will be good, setting are about exactly the same as XD10 for a lot less money and less weight.
100% I think the XR10 stock spec is where the smart money is. Great choice.
I dont need one of these, my D5 still works, but it looks fun to build! I use the Yokomo servo almost exclusively and love it. :D
After driving this some - I think I might prefer the D5. The sticky control arms on this are killing me!
@@RoadsideRCI flip my ball joint with some spacers and using semi long screws
Sweeeeeeet! I heard nezo mention that this chassis could or might be an rdx replacement 👀
That type of judgment comes later! This is just the assembly.
@RoadsideRC can't wait to hear your thoughts! This chassis looks amazing
Nice explanation on your build mate
Yep i experienced all that Plus a few others i got the fiberglass buget kit
Shocks o ring seals on the plastic shocks are to big causing binding i replaced with Traxxas seals no more binding
Also my top deck didn't really line either but with a little hole Dremeling fixed that 😁
Worst kit I've built LOL but i enjoyed it i like tinkering ✌️
Interesting! Sounds like the carbon version has a few less problems.
Kind of unfortunate since this is geared towards beginners.
Either way - it will be good as long as the performance is there!
Hey Troy, according to Nezo Terada at Nez0’s Speed Shoppe, he’d mentioned that a few guys at Strickly Sidewayz Club in Canada had used AW grease on the gasket and mating surfaces on the oil diff to prevent leaking.
I plan to do the same on my RMX oil diff too when I get it, though I’ll be using maybe 5k instead of the 100cst oil 3Racing put into the D6 kits.
Yep - I typically use Permatex Black, but skipped it assuming that gasket would have been good enough. Oops!
Don't forget that if you use ANY form of thrreadlocker, only use it on metal to metal contact, like metal screws to metal/aluminum pats. Don't use it with plastics. Plust just a tiny dribble would suffice...don't pour the whole bottle on a single screw...
100% agree!
I just got mine and I like it
Awesome!
Kudos 👊😉🫡
Thanks, Troy!!! Is the body going to be a Chevelle?
I have thought of building a Chevelle body - but not this time. Going with a Mach-E body. More to come on that!
what i cant figure out is what comes with the chassis? nothing? 0 electronics?
Correct - it is a kit. Most kits come with none of the electronics, body, or even wheels and tires. This one does give you the wheels and tires.
I won't get the D6 because how 3Racing designed this chassis is questionable, but i thank you for this video to help newcomers to take the best of this chassis.
If you are curious why i don't like the D6, here are my reasons:
- The suspension arms hinge pin always worked perfectly in many other chassis. Why the need to change? It just limits the travel.
- In order to run properly you must grind/cut some parts. That should've been looked during the testing phase (which was probably too short in my opinion). If i were their CEO and watched this video i would be ashamed and just go back and fix those problems for a future D6 version.
- Lack of attention to detail. I know it's a cheap chassis but that alone can't explain everything. There's so many little things like the tilted motor mount. The whole chassis screams like it was rushed to be released.
- They are blind. What annoys me the most is that 3racing is able to do better than this, but they continue to make the same mistakes from the previous chassis version. As an example they still have issues with the rear lower arms hitting the chassis - a problem i had in the D5MR.
Unfortunately i don't see your tips as "tips". It's more like "fixes" to make a faulty product work as intended. It's still a decent entry level chassis after all fixes done tho, however personally i'm done with the 3racing polices.
I do agree with your overall sentiment around being surprised on some of these items.
I had the original D5s - and I LOVED that chassis. A few head scratchers on it, but overall a staggeringly strong performer for the $$.
I had high hopes for this chassis, and have been surprised with the tweaks needed out of the box.
That said - now with those done, it appears to drive very nice!
Personnellement, jai ,SAKURA D3, D4 ,D5 ET D6 ❤❤❤ j'adore cette marque de châssis 😊😊🚗🚗
👍👍😎😎
cool tips for building the drift car kit
*🌞have a cool weekend🔆👍like☑full view✅🥸Au🦘*
Man, I want one so bad, waiting g for carbon chassis to be back in stock!!!!!!
Stay tuned! There are some pros and cons here.
@RoadsideRC 10-4 thanks man!!!!!
Thank you your information sharing Pls contact us for something big news
Hi Jacky!
How do you want me to contact you? Email/Instagram/etc?
Can I take my upgraded parts off my d4 and swap onto this
@@danniladoo87 It depends on what parts you are talking about.