Thank you home garage. I appreciate this video of the Stihl trimmers. By the way to answer your question I leave my fuel in my equipment tanks because I have access to ethanol free gas and I always put a stabilizer in there. It does work.
these trimmers never die they are top quality! thanks for the show!!!! i really enjoy your content!!!! i have a stihl fs38 that been going for almost 10 seasons now dirty and covered and 2 stroke oil always fires up on the 3rd of 4th pull when its cold though she runs good!!!!!!! you have inspired me to not throw stuff out or take it ta a mechanic but to always try and fix it myself cheers
I always leave fuel in my stuff over winter specifically so I don't have problems. The trick is, when you run something out of fuel there's still a little bit in the carb. You'll never get every drop out. That little bit gets cruddy way faster than a lot of fuel would, causing problems. I leave fuel in everything and then go start it and run them a few minutes once a month in the off season.
You have to run the engine out of fuel & just as it’s about to stall out you flick the choke on. Also you have to prime the fuel lines clear. I never leave fuel in because the ethanol degrades the rubber diaphragm, rots the fuel lines plus the purge bulb & non return valves. A tiny bit of fuel will only leave a spot of varnishing.
@@garyalensr I had to change the carburettor on a handheld leaf blower last autumn that had been stored with ethanol free can fuel in it, all the lines were brittle along with the purge bulb & there was a cloudy substance in the fuel tank that had blocked everything up inside the carb. It also seems to lose it’s octane over time causing lean running.
@@WhiskeyGulf71 Well damn, now ya got me nervous. I guess ya changed my mind, I'm gonna go and drain the fuel and run it dry. Thank you for telling me this, you just might have saved me some trouble come spring. Have a good weekend my friend
So working the primer bulb while the gas tank has been emptyed/turned upside down will probably expel most of the gasoline out of the carburetor? @@WhiskeyGulf71
You made the right choice buying a new carb, those zama carbs used on Stihl trimmers always have issues with the check valve assembly under the purge bulb, either one or both check valves get stuck open which causes the bulb to stop working or it does suck up fuel but when you press it some fuel returns into the carb and squirts into the throat,
Hippa makes great carb kits. I just repaired an FS70 line trimmer. It. Came with new fuel lines, spark plug, air cleaner, priming bulbs etc, all for about 19 dollars. Everything fit and the carb ran perfectly, with its factory settings. I only had to decrease the idle. It had been to the stihl dealer three times, and the customer was charged 120, each time, and they never fixed it. The last time they told him to throw it away, if it didn’t work. They didn’t even change the spark plug, which was rusty and spent, and didn’t check the fuel line, that was ripped inside the tank. I sent the customer back to the shop to the shop with the ripped fuel line, to see if they would give him some of his money back. They said, when they fixed it the first time, there was a 1 year warranty in the repair. I tested the trimmer on my own property, for two hours, and it runs perfectly.
Had a stihl km 90r since the 4 mix engine came out in 2006 i think, still use it daily now i adjust the valves yearly, throttle cable and clean out the carb also do general maintenance bits still running solid just replace the odd wear and tear bits and she keeps on going 👍
thanks home garage perfect timing i ve been asked to work on the excact same engine thers is fuel coming out from around the push rods now i will check the valve lash many thanks for the upload 👍
i carn t thank you enough home garage i adjusted the valves and cleaned the carb runs perfect now thanks for taking the time to make these videos i am subscribed and watch them all👍
Yes, I've always left fuel in the tank and carb during winter storage. I only use the Stihl canned fuel as recommended by my Stihl dealer. No issues since 2018 on my FS 38. 😊
With Stihl Moto Mix fuel, Husqvarna or Harvest King’s fuel, you can get away with leaving it in the tank/carb over winter and not have any issues starting in the spring. Though best practice is emptying the tank and running the unit dry.
@@karolyhacs6923 with premixed fuels it also might be the better decision to leave fuel in it, i have read about membrans drying up without fuel vapor.
I think you may have just helped me to fix My Stihl trimmer, i think mines a bit Newer than this one for sure...Lately Ive been finding the Air Filter soaked in fuel, it may be Leaking just like this one . Ill have to investigate further but mine will run but i have to fiddle with the choke almost like this but not As bad .. You may have just saved me a pile of money, time and aggro . Cheers mate .
See, you're a celebrity now and this is why I always have a spare. I never have understood why Stihl put valves in a 2-cycl;e but I guess they work all right but I hate the sound of them. I would've ordered the kit because I have a dealer 1/2 mile away and used the spare. And I usually left the trimmers with gas in them because our winters are pretty short. And when the 4-mix rigs came out there were a PILE of cam gears and magnetos replaces under warranty. My pal that now has his own shop was running the shop at the dealers and I saw him regularly and phoned even more. Good fix and Thanks!
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah the pre mix fule is expensive but worth it. It contains fule stabilizer its good in the can for 5yrs. And 2yrs in the tank I did leave some in my stihl fs 56rc trimmer for a yr and half . And it started right up with no problem I did sell the trimmer because I didn't like it. I've since bought a echo 2620. I like the echo over the stihl. Grate video by the way
I usually do let it run out of fuel when storing for winter but I forgot to do that on two chainsaws I have. They hadn’t been used for 5 years, since 2017 😂. What I noticed was the gas had all but evaporated leaving an oily residue but believe it or not I added fresh fuel & they cranked & ran fine thankfully! Maybe it was just luck idk😃
I’ve just repaired my km 56 multi tool head. Kept carby just new kit. New ignition coil, plugs. First issue was fuel primer broken- air in line was all that was stopping it. Then plug lead was stuck to plug head and I accidentally broke ignition lead lol. Then it just wouldn’t run, then broke starter cord. Then I took all covers off, degreased entire machine, took to it with water pressure, dried it with a blower then degreased again all over and cleaned. Last thing was getting the jets right then fresh fuel with Stihl oil. Oh and free’d up those black plastic grab things when replacing starter rope. Runs like a brand new one- 2009 model.
Whenever i put up any lawn equipment up for the winter i will drain the tank and run it dry. Never have any issues getting them to run in the spring. Only my riding mowers get used year round. I have a plow on my Husqvarna and a snow blower attachment on my Troy Bilt
Hey bro cool video. I must admit I'm guilty of leaving fuel in my equipment sometimes depending on how many days it will take me to cut my yard but I always try my best to drain the fuel and run it dry before I store it away until I need it cut my yard again.
You're a brave man to modify that aftermarket carb before knowing that it works and isn't junk that needs to be returned. It's fitment issues like this that have me preferring OEM carbs. In hindsight, I would have dropped the gas tank before permanently altering the new carb to get around the clearance issue.
Hippa has good aftermarket carbs. I’ve purchased three, to fix a Stihl chainsaw and two string trimmers. They were perfectly adjusted, and came with spark plug, fuel line extra primer bulbs, and air filter. I got one other brand knock off, that was bad. It would run lean unless the high speed needle was turned all the way out.
btw small nit : You missed a washer on the rocker arm cap , it fell down (2:24) when you opened it and you put it back without it (3:52). By the way why you never check the grease inside the head ? I mean would it make any difference ? Or the should is enough for you to know if they have all the grease they need ?
With larger tanks on equipment like a zero turn mower, we might leave some fuel in the tank over Winter (in SC) but we'll ad Sta-Bil to the tank and run it for a minutes to circulate through the carb if we do. Small 2-stroke stuff we just run out the fuel.
No, I warm it up, drain the fuel and run it at idle until it stops. I just got through bringing my Husqvarna 28L out of storage since last October (10 months) and it ran fine when filled with fresh fuel and topping off the gear drive with new grease. I use Snapper#2 grease in the cutting head. I also hang my trimmer up in the shop by its cutting head, so any extra grease will lube the drive shaft during storage.
Mine get used during the winter in NZ but it might sit still for a couple of months. Never have removed the fuel on any. I did find fuel glue in dads old blue homelite carb. That had been in storage for years. Still have it and goes like a gem every 6months. Can't get it serviced cos it doesn't have a Brake bar so I gotta DIY.
@@HomeGaragechannel thankfully they're pretty cheap, but you gotta crank it down a little after you lose them to avoid a vacuum leak, they do use mixed fuel after all :/
I realize you do this in part for content as well as being an awesome guy in general. When someone I don't know directly wants help like this I need them to make an initial effort - ie. They bring it to me or when I'm at the mutual friends house anyway etc. Often the fix is less than half an hour, driving is an expense/risk and takes additional time. Something to consider..
I have the same trimmer and recently had the same the same (not) running issue. Also got a new carburetor for the same reason you stated-rebuild kit costs more than a carb. Valve adjustment is routine periodic maintenance for these. If the new carb didn't fix the issue, the cam gear would be another place to check. They are plastic and can also wear out, though my 13 Year old FS90 gear is still good as new.
After each use even during the season I always empty the tank then pump the priming bulb to purge the carburetor of fuel, empty out this drop of fuel out too then start the engine until it stalls. I have never had any carburetor related issues in years using this procedure.
gasoline is pretty terrible stuff, but as it becomes stale it's even worse for the stuff it comes in contact with. Compound that with "time" and break down is the result.
Given up using E5/E10 petrol,so much grief, gone over to using Alkylate Petrol, Aspen 2 (2 stroke) & Aspen 4 (4 stroke) leave it in all winter, no issues with starting in the spring.
Another great video.. one thing I do is I pressure and vaccum all my carbs. If it doesn't hold pressure I'll put it in a bowl of water to see where it's leaking from.
I bought a new carb for my Homelite Trim n Edge. I put a new spark plug. Still, it doesn't run. I checked the spark plug. There was black stuff at the gap. Not sure where it is coming from. Cleaned and put it back. Ran some and died. I would like to know the settings on the hi lo adjustments and the idle screw adjustment. Idle screw is all the way in. Hi low screws are also all the way in.
If I am not going to use my trimmer for 2 or more months then I drain the fuel and run it dry. I also use nonethanol fuel as a second option. I do wonder why that carburetor was leaking. Makes me wonder if it had a hairline crack someplace. Thanks for the videos.
I've been leaving fuel in my Trimmer and blower over winter. I do use premium gas and fuel stabilizer. with that said, I'm watching your video because my 6 year old Stihl trimmer is running rough.
yes I leave fuel in and I fully regret it now because I've had an Echo edger that hasn't worked for years (won't start at all so I'm trying to figure this out now) and a Stihl trimmer that I commented in a video of yours recently that I had to buy the adjustment tools for and trying to figure that out today as well lol
I am curious about how crankcase ventilation works on those,does it have something to do with a "pulse" hose and does some oil from the gas-oil fuel find its way into the crankcase (where the cam and crankshaft friction surfaces are)
Excellent video. I subscribed. When you set the valve lash, I have seen it done so that each side is set with the top dead center on the intake stroke showing the arrow on the flywheel? You seemed to set each side with a different top dead center. Thanks -
Wow didn’t know that about the fuel. I was under the impression you should leave it full (tank). Since your advice has been spot on I will drain and run dry from now on.
I have a Stihl fs80, replaced the carb, fuel lines, fuel filter and plug, she runs but only if i self prime ( take plug out and pour little fuel down ) and seems to not want to adjust to a low idle, any idea of why the new carb wouldnt idle down? or cold start even if the primer bulb fulls and returns?
I've got the same model and I think I need to replace the carb on it. I can only get it to run if I open the throttle while yanking the pull chord but it doesn't spin the head and eventually dies. I also found that when I get it running the head will spin as it should if I manually give it fuel by pressing the primer bulb with the throttle open. I've adjusted the carb but that hasn't helped anything. I noticed when taking apart the carb that I can hear air escape when I lightly push on the center of the metering diaphragm, but I'm not sure if that's to be expected or not. Any advice would be very appreciated.
I always found these problems being a carbretter diaphragms, best just to buy a carb as I've done this on all the 2 stroke garden tools I buy, only buy tools thay are broke Refix and give them away, there are only a few things to know but won't spoil people's video regards colin from croydon surrey 👍👌👏
I have the very same model. I looked at the tag underneath and it's a 2009, I paid quite a bit for it new but I'd say it's pretty stout. It still handles thick weeds and brush just fine. Not a throw away machine
@@HomeGaragechannel i dont buy cheap consumer grade lawn and garden crap. my "lawnmower" is a kubota BX 2350 with a 54" deck. it has a 3 cylinder 23 hp kubota D902 diesel. i bought it used a few years ago with just shy of 400 hours, it's probably around a 2006. the engine and mower deck are still used on the latest model. before that i had a farmall cub with a 60" danco C3 belly mower. the farmall cub is a great tractor and used it for a number of years, it ended up eventually needing a clutch and an engine rebuild (tired but still ran). i sold it for almost as much as i paid for it. i just dont see the value in buying something that has a short service life and will start breaking often before it's life is expired. buy once, cry once. i have around 2 acres.
I have a Stihl FS38 that starts with no issues. Will run for a few minutes and then shut off. I have replaced carburetor and checked the basics like filter, flame screen, spark plug, etc. having the same issue. I use stihl motomix fuel, so I don’t believe it is a fuel issue. What would be your next troubleshooting step with this specific issue. The trimmer starts up every single time. Thanks for your videos and expertise.
I have left fuel in all of my two-stroke equipment overwinter forever but I do drain that old fuel out and start with fresh fuel the following spring. A much better option should I be less lazy is to fill the carburetor with two stroke oil for winterization.
@@HomeGaragechannel ah thank you!, it seems to work fine now, it used to bog down if you went full throttle and i got that to stop, but today i went and tried it and its smoking, cant remember exactly if its blue or white but i think its blue ish, could it be i turned the screw the wrong way?
Nice work including valves and clutch. At first glance age of the machine but looking at purge bulb it was time for new carburettor. Cost to repair outstrip buying a new one if you had to buy OEM replacement and new clutch system. The gearbox needs greasing every 20 hours too, a rookie mistake I’ve made in the past, it’s easy though you just undo screw screw in the grease container squeeze and rotate head, and take out and put screw back in.
@@LJ-kr4iz looking down the shaft on right hand side, on most Stihl Trimmers FS55 old version and FS85 and up. The newer FS 55 doesn’t have it anymore, past 3 years at least. RUclips - How to Grease Stihl Trimmer (My advice is to turn the head whilst filling to distribute grease evenly).
I always empty my machines of fuel even in the summer. In the UK with our unpredictable weather it might be a week before i need to use my equipment or it might be a month ! This summer my equipment was unused for three months because of a drought & everything stopped growing for two months & then when it eventually rained it rained every day almost for three more weeks.
I have stihl fs100, it looks like its the same model as in the video. I replaced the carburetor but when i am lowering the idle it turns off when its really high rpm, can you tell some reasons why it does that?
I dont run mine dry because l am able to run my equipment year round doing different tasks. And l use ethonal free gas with either Amsoil saber or echo red armor, and both claim to stabilize the fuel. And if l dont need to use a piece of equipment l still start it and run it every few weeks to avoid issues. Now if l were to not touch a piece of equipment for months l would run it dry and spray some wd40 in the carb to prevent any moisture from causing rust and on the metering diaphragm to keep it from drying out.
For the clutch issue, I’d rather that than no clutch at all, and until I saw this video, I never knew these stihls had a throttle lock on them. Is that all of them or just the ones with tht trigger setup?
Good video 👍. I have a question what aftermarket carburetor you use and how does it compare to the oem? My experience in the past they don't compare at all but my thoughts that they might be getting better.
thanks, I've replaced a lot of these carbs on Stihl products only after I have issues when getting the original to work properly. Of all the ones, I've had to replace only 1 was problematic, and 2 others, had small issues that I was able to deal with. And as for which carb I use, I don't have a preference. they'er all the same, as far as being aftermarket.
I drain my fuel tanks and just do a carb clean when I want to use them again the next season I quite enjoy stripping my machines down and cleaning them and doing a carb takes about 10 minutes and you’ll have a well maintained machine for a long time
Hi I have a strange problem with my Stihl km 111r (4-mix). It runs well but when I rev it up and let go of the throttle it takes very long (up to 30 seconds) to go back to Idle. I‘ve tried adjusting the carb but it didn‘t help. I also verified that the carb isn‘t loose. Do you have any suggestions on what the problem could be? Thanks for your response.
have you confirmed that the throttle plate on the carb is closing when you let go of the trigger? I'm guessing that it's hanging up. Does it do the same on "90%" throttle, or does It only happen on full throttle?
@@HomeGaragechannel All throttle linkage components are moving freely. The effect does also happen at 70-90% throttle but it takes less time to slow down. However, if you bump the throttle again after letting go it returns back to idle right away. I checked the spark plug and it was full of carbon, so it‘s running rich. However, If I close the jets on the carburetor for less fuel the engine gets too little to even rev up.
I've never had to deal with something like this. I wonder if there's a problem with the carb. Would you consider replacing it with a cheap aftermarket carb, just as a test?
@@HomeGaragechannel I think I‘m going to dismantle the carb first and check for any petrified membranes and blockages. If this doesn‘t work I‘ll order a new one. Thanks for your help!
I have an old Briggs and Stratton powered lawnmower, I never drain that and it always starts, even first start of the spring. Be a real pain to drain it. My Honda mower I turn the fuel off and run it til it stops and my Honda four stroke trimmer gets carefully emptied.
I drained and ran FS 90 till it died. Stored it a couple winters. Went back and got it out it only runs with choke on. So it didn't help. I have a carburetor ordered now.
well for me i like to put a nice Fuel Stabilizer and in general remove the fuel out of my 2 stroke aka 2 cycle and 4 stroke aka 4 cycle gear i have but yeah whatever works for me during the Winter/Flu season etc.
Clutch too wow nice I'm guna lern loads I'm loving ya videos. And I leave my petrol in equipment I think it saves the carb drying out and gumming up seams to work I have 9 petrol equipment
Hey man, I messaged you a few days ago about my machine which is the same as this but the KM 90 R so just means I can swap strimmer to hedgecutter attachments. Having done this repair would you know where to get service parts for this engine? thanks❤️
Your new carb is not a 1 to 1 replacement. Heck even the rebuild kits are not 1 to 1. But at least they're just gaskets and springs. I've rebuilt quite a bit of stihl carbs. It's pretty quick once you know what you're doing. And you'll enjoy it if you like to tinker. Makes more sense to me to do that if you care about your machine. That repeated rope yanking hurt my soul. To properly start Stihl engines, gently pull the rope until you feel resistance. Fully retract rope then give it a brisk short pull. You don't want pull the rope all the way. That's how they'll break. One thing worth trying before you tear up the carb or replace it is to play with the throttle a bit. Use fresh fuel, with some cleaner additive. Do whatever you need to with the throttle to get it running. For example, a full throttle to start, feathered to keep it running. Then slowly increase the throttle until you can go full throttle. Release it a bit if it starts to choke and die. I just did this on a trimmer that was said to need a carb cleaning/fixing. It sat for 2 years. It started and died and failed to start again. Waited a bit to let the engine unflood. Started again with great difficulty then performed the above procedure just as a test. Now it works great. I hate replace whole part mentality. Try fixing the dang thing to keep it out of the landfill. Not everything needs to be replaced.
pls help boss, i have a few weed eaters and chainsaws that wont even start when i put fuel in the carb, they have good compression and spark. any suggestions?
I have this trimmer, but with the bike handlebar. it runs for a few minutes but dies and wont start again for a long time. my local Stihl dealer that i bought it from changed the carburetor, but it didn't fix the problem. do you have any advice for a fix?
sure, I'd do multiple things, I'd replace the Fuel tank vent, the spark plug and were you able to "visually" confirm that the carb on it now, is indeed new? or just cleaned with brake cleaner to appear new?
Hey hey, its been aa while, sorrry i stopped commenting, haven’t been getting home in time and ive been able o watch your videos but just haven’t had enought time to comment, life is getting busy. But i still am trying to make time to garner as much knowledge from your videos as possible
I purchase them from Amazon but you can also buy them from other online stores. However, unless you buy an OEM part, they will most like be coming from the same place.
I have mostly new stihl equipment (blower, trimmer, etc) and they have much trouble starting if I leave them in the sun on a hot day while I mow. Is this normal for these engines? Or is it an issue that should be corrected?
I use only engineered fuel (VP small engine fuel) and Stihl full synthetic oil. Yes I leave the fuel in all winter long. It keeps the diaphragms soft and flexible. My Stihl KM90R is 17 years old and starts first pull. Is this fuel more expensive? Yes, but well worth it.
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Thank you home garage. I appreciate this video of the Stihl trimmers. By the way to answer your question I leave my fuel in my equipment tanks because I have access to ethanol free gas and I always put a stabilizer in there. It does work.
ah, very nice, thank you Alex Valerio.
No its proven to not work.
these trimmers never die they are top quality! thanks for the show!!!! i really enjoy your content!!!! i have a stihl fs38 that been going for almost 10 seasons now dirty and covered and 2 stroke oil always fires up on the 3rd of 4th pull when its cold though she runs good!!!!!!! you have inspired me to not throw stuff out or take it ta a mechanic but to always try and fix it myself cheers
no problem and thanks for taking an interest in keeping stuff, out of the landfill.
@@stellarproductions8888 Thank you and Exactly its ALWAYS worth a shot no matter what and what if your don't succeed you leaned something new!
I always leave fuel in my stuff over winter specifically so I don't have problems. The trick is, when you run something out of fuel there's still a little bit in the carb. You'll never get every drop out. That little bit gets cruddy way faster than a lot of fuel would, causing problems. I leave fuel in everything and then go start it and run them a few minutes once a month in the off season.
You have to run the engine out of fuel & just as it’s about to stall out you flick the choke on.
Also you have to prime the fuel lines clear.
I never leave fuel in because the ethanol degrades the rubber diaphragm, rots the fuel lines plus the purge bulb & non return valves.
A tiny bit of fuel will only leave a spot of varnishing.
@@WhiskeyGulf71 I leave fuel in all my equipment, I do however use can fuel.
@@garyalensr
I had to change the carburettor on a handheld leaf blower last autumn that had been stored with ethanol free can fuel in it, all the lines were brittle along with the purge bulb & there was a cloudy substance in the fuel tank that had blocked everything up inside the carb.
It also seems to lose it’s octane over time causing lean running.
@@WhiskeyGulf71 Well damn, now ya got me nervous. I guess ya changed my mind, I'm gonna go and drain the fuel and run it dry. Thank you for telling me this, you just might have saved me some trouble come spring. Have a good weekend my friend
So working the primer bulb while the gas tank has been emptyed/turned upside down will probably expel most of the gasoline out of the carburetor? @@WhiskeyGulf71
You made the right choice buying a new carb, those zama carbs used on Stihl trimmers always have issues with the check valve assembly under the purge bulb, either one or both check valves get stuck open which causes the bulb to stop working or it does suck up fuel but when you press it some fuel returns into the carb and squirts into the throat,
thank you, I appreciate the information .
Hippa makes great carb kits. I just repaired an FS70 line trimmer. It. Came with new fuel lines, spark plug, air cleaner, priming bulbs etc, all for about 19 dollars. Everything fit and the carb ran perfectly, with its factory settings. I only had to decrease the idle. It had been to the stihl dealer three times, and the customer was charged 120, each time, and they never fixed it. The last time they told him to throw it away, if it didn’t work. They didn’t even change the spark plug, which was rusty and spent, and didn’t check the fuel line, that was ripped inside the tank. I sent the customer back to the shop to the shop with the ripped fuel line, to see if they would give him some of his money back. They said, when they fixed it the first time, there was a 1 year warranty in the repair. I tested the trimmer on my own property, for two hours, and it runs perfectly.
nice thank you for sharing that
I have a FS 90 4-mix, great trimmer. It is a 2008 and still running strong with lots of low end power and torque.
thank you Mike Spain.
What is a 4 mix?
i had the same thing and it had clutch issues but it did work out great once i did a redneck engineering on the clutch.
@@robstone5333 it is a kinda 4cycle but still takes 2cycle oil and gas mix.
@@24space310dare I ask?
Had a stihl km 90r since the 4 mix engine came out in 2006 i think, still use it daily now i adjust the valves yearly, throttle cable and clean out the carb also do general maintenance bits still running solid just replace the odd wear and tear bits and she keeps on going 👍
Thanks for sharing
thanks home garage perfect timing i ve been asked to work on the excact same engine thers is fuel coming out from around the push rods now i will check the valve lash many thanks for the upload 👍
Glad I could help
i carn t thank you enough home garage i adjusted the valves and cleaned the carb runs perfect now thanks for taking the time to make these videos i am subscribed and watch them all👍
Yes, I've always left fuel in the tank and carb during winter storage. I only use the Stihl canned fuel as recommended by my Stihl dealer. No issues since 2018 on my FS 38. 😊
nice choice
I purchase ethanol free fuel at a marina and mix a good synthetic 50/1 oil and have had no problems since new in 2005.
With Stihl Moto Mix fuel, Husqvarna or Harvest King’s fuel, you can get away with leaving it in the tank/carb over winter and not have any issues starting in the spring. Though best practice is emptying the tank and running the unit dry.
@@karolyhacs6923 with premixed fuels it also might be the better decision to leave fuel in it, i have read about membrans drying up without fuel vapor.
I think you may have just helped me to fix My Stihl trimmer, i think mines a bit Newer than this one for sure...Lately Ive been finding the Air Filter soaked in fuel, it may be Leaking just like this one . Ill have to investigate further but mine will run but i have to fiddle with the choke almost like this but not As bad .. You may have just saved me a pile of money, time and aggro . Cheers mate .
thank you Fetus.
See, you're a celebrity now and this is why I always have a spare. I never have understood why Stihl put valves in a 2-cycl;e but I guess they work all right but I hate the sound of them. I would've ordered the kit because I have a dealer 1/2 mile away and used the spare. And I usually left the trimmers with gas in them because our winters are pretty short. And when the 4-mix rigs came out there were a PILE of cam gears and magnetos replaces under warranty. My pal that now has his own shop was running the shop at the dealers and I saw him regularly and phoned even more. Good fix and Thanks!
not sure, but If I had to guess, it was for emissions
@@HomeGaragechannel I'd say you're right!
I use pre mix vp 50to1 ethanol free fule. So yes I leave full in my trimmer during winter storage. Never had a issue
thank you Marc Hall.
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah the pre mix fule is expensive but worth it. It contains fule stabilizer its good in the can for 5yrs. And 2yrs in the tank I did leave some in my stihl fs 56rc trimmer for a yr and half . And it started right up with no problem I did sell the trimmer because I didn't like it. I've since bought a echo 2620. I like the echo over the stihl. Grate video by the way
yes I would always recommend canned fuel, because of all the benefits you mentioned thanks again.
Do you use 94, or 97 octane? I use the 97 octane, and it works great.
I usually do let it run out of fuel when storing for winter but I forgot to do that on two chainsaws I have. They hadn’t been used for 5 years, since 2017 😂. What I noticed was the gas had all but evaporated leaving an oily residue but believe it or not I added fresh fuel & they cranked & ran fine thankfully! Maybe it was just luck idk😃
very nice
I’ve just repaired my km 56 multi tool head. Kept carby just new kit. New ignition coil, plugs. First issue was fuel primer broken- air in line was all that was stopping it. Then plug lead was stuck to plug head and I accidentally broke ignition lead lol. Then it just wouldn’t run, then broke starter cord. Then I took all covers off, degreased entire machine, took to it with water pressure, dried it with a blower then degreased again all over and cleaned. Last thing was getting the jets right then fresh fuel with Stihl oil. Oh and free’d up those black plastic grab things when replacing starter rope. Runs like a brand new one- 2009 model.
very nice work!
I use Stabil fuel conditioner in the gas. Engines start right up after winter storage.
thank you The Casual Citizen.
i use stabil all the time. after 15 years dolmar starts 1 pull everytime, even after winter . no need to change carb
Whenever i put up any lawn equipment up for the winter i will drain the tank and run it dry. Never have any issues getting them to run in the spring. Only my riding mowers get used year round. I have a plow on my Husqvarna and a snow blower attachment on my Troy Bilt
very nice James Hedrick.
Hey bro cool video. I must admit I'm guilty of leaving fuel in my equipment sometimes depending on how many days it will take me to cut my yard but I always try my best to drain the fuel and run it dry before I store it away until I need it cut my yard again.
it happens, even to me.
@@HomeGaragechannel we are not always perfect but that's what make us humans. Once we learn from our mistakes we avoid making them again.
You're a brave man to modify that aftermarket carb before knowing that it works and isn't junk that needs to be returned. It's fitment issues like this that have me preferring OEM carbs. In hindsight, I would have dropped the gas tank before permanently altering the new carb to get around the clearance issue.
yes it was quite the risk, but sometimes things like this happen.
Hippa has good aftermarket carbs. I’ve purchased three, to fix a Stihl chainsaw and two string trimmers. They were perfectly adjusted, and came with spark plug, fuel line extra primer bulbs, and air filter. I got one other brand knock off, that was bad. It would run lean unless the high speed needle was turned all the way out.
btw small nit : You missed a washer on the rocker arm cap , it fell down (2:24) when you opened it and you put it back without it (3:52).
By the way why you never check the grease inside the head ? I mean would it make any difference ? Or the should is enough for you to know if they have all the grease they need ?
did I? I'll have to take a look again thanks
These videos are the best to watch
thank I appreciate it.
it's like the Chris Fix for garden gear. Good stuff.
You got that right!
With larger tanks on equipment like a zero turn mower, we might leave some fuel in the tank over Winter (in SC) but we'll ad Sta-Bil to the tank and run it for a minutes to circulate through the carb if we do. Small 2-stroke stuff we just run out the fuel.
I completely understand and when I had my zero turn, I did the same.
hello i was wondering can i replace a 18 inch bar and new chain with a 16 inch
sure can
No, I warm it up, drain the fuel and run it at idle until it stops. I just got through bringing my Husqvarna 28L out of storage since last October (10 months) and it ran fine when filled with fresh fuel and topping off the gear drive with new grease. I use Snapper#2 grease in the cutting head. I also hang my trimmer up in the shop by its cutting head, so any extra grease will lube the drive shaft during storage.
Great tip! thank you John Clarke
Mine get used during the winter in NZ but it might sit still for a couple of months. Never have removed the fuel on any. I did find fuel glue in dads old blue homelite carb. That had been in storage for years. Still have it and goes like a gem every 6months. Can't get it serviced cos it doesn't have a Brake bar so I gotta DIY.
Thanks for sharing
Nice video! But just so you know, you lost the washer that goes between the screw and the valve cover
you notice that too, yeah I couldn't find it after that.
@@HomeGaragechannel thankfully they're pretty cheap, but you gotta crank it down a little after you lose them to avoid a vacuum leak, they do use mixed fuel after all :/
yes sir.
He sho did! I was gonna bring it up but ya beat me to it! Lol
I realize you do this in part for content as well as being an awesome guy in general. When someone I don't know directly wants help like this I need them to make an initial effort - ie. They bring it to me or when I'm at the mutual friends house anyway etc. Often the fix is less than half an hour, driving is an expense/risk and takes additional time. Something to consider..
you make a good point, the round trip, including the visit , took over almost an hour.
I have the same trimmer and recently had the same the same (not) running issue. Also got a new carburetor for the same reason you stated-rebuild kit costs more than a carb. Valve adjustment is routine periodic maintenance for these. If the new carb didn't fix the issue, the cam gear would be another place to check. They are plastic and can also wear out, though my 13 Year old FS90 gear is still good as new.
Thanks for the info!
After each use even during the season I always empty the tank then pump the priming bulb to purge the carburetor of fuel, empty out this drop of fuel out too then start the engine until it stalls. I have never had any carburetor related issues in years using this procedure.
very good technique.
I’ll have to try that. Thank you!
great video, why/how does left over/stagnant fuel deteriorate the carb?
gasoline is pretty terrible stuff, but as it becomes stale it's even worse for the stuff it comes in contact with. Compound that with "time" and break down is the result.
Given up using E5/E10 petrol,so much grief, gone over to using Alkylate Petrol, Aspen 2 (2 stroke) & Aspen 4 (4 stroke) leave it in all winter, no issues with starting in the spring.
thank you Stuart Andrews.
Thanks for sharing. I live in Florida and there is no winter storage. ;-)
Yes, from the other viewers from Florida, it's year round mowing. Thank you Sir!
Is there something else you can use to check the valve if you dont have that special metal that you use
if you're in a real pinch, get a soda can, and cut it in the same shape I used in the video. The can should be very close to .004"
great video I am considering buying one of these trimmers. I also never leave fuel in my equipment over the winter or during long storage periods.
smart choice, thank you Will's Small Engine's
@@HomeGaragechannel no problem
You should do a detailed video on how to rebuild and replace the clutches in these trimmers.
I have the footage already but the premise was pretty obvious, I might consider later though, thanks.
I'm using Stihl HP ultra two stroke oil in fuel mix and leaving my FS 130 with it during winter causes no problem.
very nice
Another great video.. one thing I do is I pressure and vaccum all my carbs. If it doesn't hold pressure I'll put it in a bowl of water to see where it's leaking from.
yes It's something I need to do, thank you Marc L.
Would the trimmer head need lubricating as well ? I really enjoy your informative videos. Cheers Darren
after some time, Yes it will
I live in southern Florida I don't have a winter to worry about grass grows all year if u got the right grass.
nice, that means your equipment gets a good workout, all year long. thank you Philip Martin.
So with my craftman 4cycle I usually run it dry and put few drops of oil in cylinder and pull rope a bit then it's off to storage .
very nice Sam Morgan .
I bought a new carb for my Homelite Trim n Edge. I put a new spark plug. Still, it doesn't run. I checked the spark plug. There was black stuff at the gap. Not sure where it is coming from. Cleaned and put it back. Ran some and died. I would like to know the settings on the hi lo adjustments and the idle screw adjustment. Idle screw is all the way in. Hi low screws are also all the way in.
sorry I don't have that information
Pretty sure it’s screwed all the way in and like 2 turns back out to tester to factory
If I am not going to use my trimmer for 2 or more months then I drain the fuel and run it dry. I also use nonethanol fuel as a second option. I do wonder why that carburetor was leaking. Makes me wonder if it had a hairline crack someplace. Thanks for the videos.
thank you D Butler
I've been leaving fuel in my Trimmer and blower over winter. I do use premium gas and fuel stabilizer. with that said, I'm watching your video because my 6 year old Stihl trimmer is running rough.
is it a 4 mix engine? Otherwise it might benefit from a slight fuel adjustment
Do you have a video on how to adjust valve covers? And how did you know what spacer to use for that trimmer?
no I don't and I looked up on a stihl forum.
after replacing the clutch twice, I´ve now fixed it myself with some antiseize on the pivoting point of the shoes
nice work
yes I leave fuel in and I fully regret it now because I've had an Echo edger that hasn't worked for years (won't start at all so I'm trying to figure this out now) and a Stihl trimmer that I commented in a video of yours recently that I had to buy the adjustment tools for and trying to figure that out today as well lol
good luck with them, they sound like they might be a challenge
I am curious about how crankcase ventilation works on those,does it have something to do with a "pulse" hose and does some oil from the gas-oil fuel find its way into the crankcase (where the cam and crankshaft friction surfaces are)
I apologize I've never taken one of these apart to see how the blow-by is managed
Excellent video. I subscribed. When you set the valve lash, I have seen it done so that each side is set with the top dead center on the intake stroke showing the arrow on the flywheel? You seemed to set each side with a different top dead center. Thanks -
yes it's not the prescribed method but off camera I did set it to TDC and checked and they results were the same
Wow didn’t know that about the fuel. I was under the impression you should leave it full (tank). Since your advice has been spot on I will drain and run dry from now on.
thank you Maximus Primus.
I have a Stihl fs80, replaced the carb, fuel lines, fuel filter and plug, she runs but only if i self prime ( take plug out and pour little fuel down ) and seems to not want to adjust to a low idle, any idea of why the new carb wouldnt idle down? or cold start even if the primer bulb fulls and returns?
sure, have you check on the engine compression first, and also have you tried to make adjustment to the carb?
I've got the same model and I think I need to replace the carb on it. I can only get it to run if I open the throttle while yanking the pull chord but it doesn't spin the head and eventually dies. I also found that when I get it running the head will spin as it should if I manually give it fuel by pressing the primer bulb with the throttle open. I've adjusted the carb but that hasn't helped anything.
I noticed when taking apart the carb that I can hear air escape when I lightly push on the center of the metering diaphragm, but I'm not sure if that's to be expected or not. Any advice would be very appreciated.
I'd replace the carb and call it a day.
I always found these problems being a carbretter diaphragms, best just to buy a carb as I've done this on all the 2 stroke garden tools I buy, only buy tools thay are broke Refix and give them away, there are only a few things to know but won't spoil people's video regards colin from croydon surrey 👍👌👏
thank you Colin Evans.
I have the very same model. I looked at the tag underneath and it's a 2009, I paid quite a bit for it new but I'd say it's pretty stout. It still handles thick weeds and brush just fine. Not a throw away machine
I’ve just bought a second hand one £80 starts first pull😍
thank you Andrew Donohue.
nice
@@HomeGaragechannel i dont buy cheap consumer grade lawn and garden crap. my "lawnmower" is a kubota BX 2350 with a 54" deck. it has a 3 cylinder 23 hp kubota D902 diesel. i bought it used a few years ago with just shy of 400 hours, it's probably around a 2006. the engine and mower deck are still used on the latest model. before that i had a farmall cub with a 60" danco C3 belly mower. the farmall cub is a great tractor and used it for a number of years, it ended up eventually needing a clutch and an engine rebuild (tired but still ran). i sold it for almost as much as i paid for it.
i just dont see the value in buying something that has a short service life and will start breaking often before it's life is expired. buy once, cry once.
i have around 2 acres.
very nice, thanks for the information.
Hi
I have the big brother to this KM-130 R
Same issue
Thanks for the video
No problem and thank you!
I have a Stihl FS38 that starts with no issues. Will run for a few minutes and then shut off. I have replaced carburetor and checked the basics like filter, flame screen, spark plug, etc. having the same issue. I use stihl motomix fuel, so I don’t believe it is a fuel issue. What would be your next troubleshooting step with this specific issue. The trimmer starts up every single time. Thanks for your videos and expertise.
I already answered this in your other post.
@@HomeGaragechannel this is my first post. Do you mean you answered this on another video?
I have left fuel in all of my two-stroke equipment overwinter forever but I do drain that old fuel out and start with fresh fuel the following spring. A much better option should I be less lazy is to fill the carburetor with two stroke oil for winterization.
I like the 2 stroke oil idea. Should work great for those worried about drying
hey i adjusted the carb screws for a bolens 110 i think, is there anything i should wary about?
sure, if you turn the screw past half a turn, and it's still not working, you'll need a new carb.
@@HomeGaragechannel ah thank you!, it seems to work fine now, it used to bog down if you went full throttle and i got that to stop, but today i went and tried it and its smoking, cant remember exactly if its blue or white but i think its blue ish, could it be i turned the screw the wrong way?
Good job on the video! My KM 91r used to have this problem till I did a valve adjustment on mine now it runs great
Good to hear, thank you The lawn channel
Nice work including valves and clutch.
At first glance age of the machine but looking at purge bulb it was time for new carburettor.
Cost to repair outstrip buying a new one if you had to buy OEM replacement and new clutch system.
The gearbox needs greasing every 20 hours too, a rookie mistake I’ve made in the past, it’s easy though you just undo screw screw in the grease container squeeze and rotate head, and take out and put screw back in.
ah, next time it's in, I'll have add some grease.
Where is gearbox screw?
@@LJ-kr4iz looking down the shaft on right hand side, on most Stihl Trimmers FS55 old version and FS85 and up.
The newer FS 55 doesn’t have it anymore, past 3 years at least.
RUclips - How to Grease Stihl Trimmer (My advice is to turn the head whilst filling to distribute grease evenly).
I always empty my machines of fuel even in the summer.
In the UK with our unpredictable weather it might be a week before i need to use my equipment or it might be a month !
This summer my equipment was unused for three months because of a drought & everything stopped growing for two months & then when it eventually rained it rained every day almost for three more weeks.
makes sense, thank you Will Grant.
For the maintenance , do you recommend adjusting the valves periodically?
of course, it's not hard to do, and it only takes about 15 minutes.
My favorite trimmer
these are very nice
I have stihl fs100, it looks like its the same model as in the video. I replaced the carburetor but when i am lowering the idle it turns off when its really high rpm, can you tell some reasons why it does that?
the carb's fuel adjustment screws might need to be turned a bit to work with your engine
Do you have do you have link to diaphragm for carburetor?
no I don't
Why would it get rust on the clutch and would you do to prevent it thank you this stuff is to costly not to know
I'm guessing it was kept in a place that was constantly damp. As far as prevention, keep it in the garage, where the moisture isn't as bad.
I dont run mine dry because l am able to run my equipment year round doing different tasks. And l use ethonal free gas with either Amsoil saber or echo red armor, and both claim to stabilize the fuel. And if l dont need to use a piece of equipment l still start it and run it every few weeks to avoid issues. Now if l were to not touch a piece of equipment for months l would run it dry and spray some wd40 in the carb to prevent any moisture from causing rust and on the metering diaphragm to keep it from drying out.
thank you Ethan Miller.
@@HomeGaragechannel Your Welcome!! What are your thoughts on the 4-mix stihls? Would you buy one of them or would you get an echo?
no 4 mix, I would go with echo.
@@HomeGaragechannel Same here! The 4-mixes seem too complicated for a string trimmer and less reliable than an echo IMHO.
How do you know or where can I find the valve setting for small engines?
why the internet of course. I just looked up "Stihl FS90 R valve lash" and found it. Just change the brand and model to match what you're working on.
For the clutch issue, I’d rather that than no clutch at all, and until I saw this video, I never knew these stihls had a throttle lock on them. Is that all of them or just the ones with tht trigger setup?
thank you Bobby Stewart
Good video 👍. I have a question what aftermarket carburetor you use and how does it compare to the oem? My experience in the past they don't compare at all but my thoughts that they might be getting better.
thanks, I've replaced a lot of these carbs on Stihl products only after I have issues when getting the original to work properly. Of all the ones, I've had to replace only 1 was problematic, and 2 others, had small issues that I was able to deal with. And as for which carb I use, I don't have a preference. they'er all the same, as far as being aftermarket.
Great explanation and editing perfect, you know your stuff please keep it up
Thanks, will do!
I take the old fuel out and put in ethanol free with stihl 2cycle mix. Seems to work well.
as long as it work, keep doing, thank you for the comment
Ciao ottimo lavoro ben fatto il carburatore era distrutto.. 😅 ma sbaglio o ha la frizione incollata??
grazie e si la frizione era bloccata
@@HomeGaragechannel sei molto capace continua cosi e un piacere vedere i tuoi video!!!
lo apprezzo.
Fuel left in always with fuel preservative added
Full tank
very good advice
I have a FS 38 Stihl just had new fuel lines carburetor and spark plug an cleaned the exhaust filter and mine is bogging down
have you done a compression test? Also you said you put a new carb on? did you try adjusting the fuel mixture screws?
Where do you get your carbs? All I see is off Brand carbs. Will those work? Thanks
I only get off brands carbs and that's because OEM carbs are 4 to 5 times the price. I get them from amazn
@@HomeGaragechannel ok thanks
no problem
I drain my fuel tanks and just do a carb clean when I want to use them again the next season I quite enjoy stripping my machines down and cleaning them and doing a carb takes about 10 minutes and you’ll have a well maintained machine for a long time
I like they way you put that
Hi
I have a strange problem with my Stihl km 111r (4-mix).
It runs well but when I rev it up and let go of the throttle it takes very long (up to 30 seconds) to go back to Idle.
I‘ve tried adjusting the carb but it didn‘t help. I also verified that the carb isn‘t loose.
Do you have any suggestions on what the problem could be?
Thanks for your response.
have you confirmed that the throttle plate on the carb is closing when you let go of the trigger? I'm guessing that it's hanging up. Does it do the same on "90%" throttle, or does It only happen on full throttle?
@@HomeGaragechannel
All throttle linkage components are moving freely.
The effect does also happen at 70-90% throttle but it takes less time to slow down.
However, if you bump the throttle again after letting go it returns back to idle right away.
I checked the spark plug and it was full of carbon, so it‘s running rich. However, If I close the jets on the carburetor for less fuel the engine gets too little to even rev up.
I've never had to deal with something like this. I wonder if there's a problem with the carb. Would you consider replacing it with a cheap aftermarket carb, just as a test?
@@HomeGaragechannel I think I‘m going to dismantle the carb first and check for any petrified membranes and blockages. If this doesn‘t work I‘ll order a new one. Thanks for your help!
no problem and good luck
In my experience when you use the stihl motomix fuel or the aspen 2 stroke fuel it doesnt cause problems when you leave it in the tank
nice, thank you for the tip
Replace the gas lines
I have an old Briggs and Stratton powered lawnmower, I never drain that and it always starts, even first start of the spring. Be a real pain to drain it. My Honda mower I turn the fuel off and run it til it stops and my Honda four stroke trimmer gets carefully emptied.
thank you Donald Sayers.
I drained and ran FS 90 till it died. Stored it a couple winters. Went back and got it out it only runs with choke on. So it didn't help. I have a carburetor ordered now.
to me it sounds like your diaphragm was already hanging on by a thread before it was stored. Besides it's a Stihl, it shouldn't do that.
also, an old sthil i have wont start and the exaust gets wet when pulling on the rope
sounds like the carb is the issue.
@@HomeGaragechannel alright ill look into it
My string trimmer shaft started shaking/vibrating at idle suddenly, and its 1 year old unit.Any ideas?
I've never dealt with anything like that but I would guess it probably the clutch, that's the problem, But I'm just guessing.
well for me i like to put a nice Fuel Stabilizer and in general remove the fuel out of my 2 stroke aka 2 cycle and 4 stroke aka 4 cycle gear i have but yeah whatever works for me during the Winter/Flu season etc.
thank you Patrick Stapleton
@@HomeGaragechannel my pleasure mate and stay safe.
Clutch too wow nice I'm guna lern loads I'm loving ya videos. And I leave my petrol in equipment I think it saves the carb drying out and gumming up seams to work I have 9 petrol equipment
Thanks 👍
Hey man, I messaged you a few days ago about my machine which is the same as this but the KM 90 R so just means I can swap strimmer to hedgecutter attachments. Having done this repair would you know where to get service parts for this engine? thanks❤️
unfortunately no, I typically only get parts from Amazon. I would guess, going to a certified dealer, would be the best option.
What type of maintenance that trimmer needs
greasing the trimmer head, replacing the air filter when it get dirty, and proper winter storage.
Have to add stabil to fuel during winter
Your new carb is not a 1 to 1 replacement. Heck even the rebuild kits are not 1 to 1. But at least they're just gaskets and springs. I've rebuilt quite a bit of stihl carbs. It's pretty quick once you know what you're doing. And you'll enjoy it if you like to tinker. Makes more sense to me to do that if you care about your machine. That repeated rope yanking hurt my soul. To properly start Stihl engines, gently pull the rope until you feel resistance. Fully retract rope then give it a brisk short pull. You don't want pull the rope all the way. That's how they'll break. One thing worth trying before you tear up the carb or replace it is to play with the throttle a bit. Use fresh fuel, with some cleaner additive. Do whatever you need to with the throttle to get it running. For example, a full throttle to start, feathered to keep it running. Then slowly increase the throttle until you can go full throttle. Release it a bit if it starts to choke and die. I just did this on a trimmer that was said to need a carb cleaning/fixing. It sat for 2 years. It started and died and failed to start again. Waited a bit to let the engine unflood. Started again with great difficulty then performed the above procedure just as a test. Now it works great. I hate replace whole part mentality. Try fixing the dang thing to keep it out of the landfill. Not everything needs to be replaced.
wow, thanks for all the wonderful tips.
Your videos are the best.
I appreciate that
i have a question, does brake fluid really restores metering diaphrams?
sometimes, if the diaphragm is too far gone, it will take a long time to work.
pls help boss, i have a few weed eaters and chainsaws that wont even start when i put fuel in the carb, they have good compression and spark. any suggestions?
sure, make sure the engines aren't flooded while trying to start it.
Too much fuel, is just as bad as no fuel at all.
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks a lot man, you are a badass!
thanks man
I have this trimmer, but with the bike handlebar. it runs for a few minutes but dies and wont start again for a long time. my local Stihl dealer that i bought it from changed the carburetor, but it didn't fix the problem. do you have any advice for a fix?
sure, I'd do multiple things, I'd replace the Fuel tank vent, the spark plug and were you able to "visually" confirm that the carb on it now, is indeed new? or just cleaned with brake cleaner to appear new?
@@HomeGaragechannel it is new, but it has been sitting for awhile. i bought a new weed eater and i would like to get my old one running again.
Great repair 👍🙏👍🙏
Thank you RayFpv
Thanks I like videos like this it helps me out a lot
Glad to hear it!
Hey hey, its been aa while, sorrry i stopped commenting, haven’t been getting home in time and ive been able o watch your videos but just haven’t had enought time to comment, life is getting busy. But i still am trying to make time to garner as much knowledge from your videos as possible
always glad to see you in the comments and yes, life is what it is.
How was it fixing the carb
not sure how to go about answering this question.
Where do you buy the carbs?
I purchase them from Amazon but you can also buy them from other online stores. However, unless you buy an OEM part, they will most like be coming from the same place.
I have mostly new stihl equipment (blower, trimmer, etc) and they have much trouble starting if I leave them in the sun on a hot day while I mow. Is this normal for these engines? Or is it an issue that should be corrected?
it's shouldn't happen, but the if that happens, try not using the choke, because the whole fuel system is now pressurized from sitting in the sun.
I have fuel always in the tank. Using the Motomix from Stihl.
thank you Alexander Haroske
I use only engineered fuel (VP small engine fuel) and Stihl full synthetic oil. Yes I leave the fuel in all winter long. It keeps the diaphragms soft and flexible. My Stihl KM90R is 17 years old and starts first pull. Is this fuel more expensive? Yes, but well worth it.
if it works for you, keep using it.