By far the best video I've seen on this procedure, hell this might be the best video I've seen on any auto repair! After watching a few others I didn't want any part of this repair but now I feel like it's no problem. Ordering the parts now.
Exactly what I was thinking. Other videos seemed a bit vague and didnt get close up enough. Basically just seems like dissabmely and assembly. I have the parts on the way and going to take a whack at it when they get here
Total mechanic newbie but knocked this replacement out of the park yesterday. Couldn't have done it without these gents and this superbly made video. Cheers!!
Thanks guys. I'm about to perform this exact repair on my 5.3 and you have by far the most clear and thorough step by step guide I've found so far with the best camera angles too. I will most certainly be referring to this as I work. One other detail worth mentioning is that GM has a technical service bulletin out about the knock sensor replacement. They recommend removing the foam seal on the rear side of the intake manifold visible at 14:25 in the video upon re-installation. This is to allow any intruding water to easily drain out the back. Also, they suggest placing a dam of RTV sealant around each knock sensor hole with a small opening facing the rear of the engine to further prevent water intrusion. Cheers.
swapped out the oil pressure sensor and intake manifold gaskets while I was at it and really cleaned the block being careful nothing got in those holes and even then, took me about 3 hours. just pausing a playing the video going step by step! you guys are amazing!
Just did mine today while watching this video step by step. Really helped a lot. Not that hard of a job, just a lot to take loose. I did go a step further and put new intake gaskets in and permatex around the covers on knock sensors. Thanks for the video
I recently had to replace the knock sensors in my 06 silverado. I watched your video on my tablet while doing so and it was easy. Thanks for the tutorial.
I just did this repair today it took me just under 6 hours. Well worth the time to do it myself. Had to remove the valley cover for the back knock sensor was rusted on tight so I had more work added. After I was all done my truck runs so much better. Made a big difference in engine performance. Still need to get the code cleared. Thanks for the informative video.
Very detailed step by step, would recommend replacing the gasket and both seals where the knock sensor sits while you’re there if anyone is doing this repair
I just performed this repair on my 2005 Suburban 1500 LT 5.3L. Took about 2 hours start to finish. This video was exactly what I needed! I took my laptop to the shop, watched some of the video, paused, then performed the task. At first I was fearing the fix, but after I got into it, it flowed like milk-n-honey. I did use some Red RTV Gasket Maker on the knock sensor wiring harness rubber gasket. I also replaced the manifold gasket. You guys did a great job with this video! Fear no fix!
great Video guys.no annoying music no crap talking. will be doing this on my 01 Denali XL 6.0 . looks pretty simple. miss the old days when you could remove a intake and replace in no time.
My knock sensors and PCM are in process of being replaced. This really helped me to appreciate where all the labor costs go to for the sensors. WHAT A PAIN IN THE REAR! Thanks so much!
Thank you guys for a very informative video. After watching a couple of times I was able to get this job done in just under 4hrs. Not to bad for a carpenter. Top notch step by step instructions. Thanks again!!
I just completed this repair on a 2006 Tahoe. This video was spot on and really helped me to understand the proper techniques. After purchasing the sensors and a few tools, I completed the job in about 3 hours, including a few breaks. The rear connectors on the injectors were a real bitch. I would recommend disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery to be safe.
This is the second time that I have used this video to replace the knock sensors. Thank you, guys, so much. I am hoping that I never have to do it again. Plus, all in all, with your help in the video it took me back to the days when I loved working with cars, most of all my 41 Chevy Special Deluxe Coupe. Thanks again for the detailed video, it will give confidence to those that might not have all the courage to jump into this type of project. 3/19/2022
Really good video. I like the detail but also concise. - I've got the P0332 code and will be doing this job shortly. 2005 GMC Yukon XL SLT 5.3L (311,000 miles original engine and transmission) My only comment is a me thing. I would never put it back together without cleaning everything - especially the valley pan and other stuff not normally accessible. Nice job.
Chris & Jim, thanks for making this video. In parts and tools I spent $100. I was nervous going into this but the clear-cut video made it easy. Replaced my sensors and in my part of the country and the rough quote I had I was looking at a $1,000 repair. My ‘04 Chevy Tahoe is running great and gained horsepower by fixing the sensor. All ready for summer vacation with the money I saved!
Thanks for all the info. I finished my 2005 Sierra 5.3 today. No codes! Just take your time and follow the directions and take your time and you'll be fine
Such a great video. Step by step, easy to follow, straight to the point. THANK YOU, from a single mom tired of going to mechanics who either cause more problems then before or overcharge me for everyyything. I was able to do this project with my Dad, if we didn't get stuck on a rusted knock sensor this probably would have only taken 3-4 hours. So kudos to you guys for making a comprehensible video! THANK YOU!
This the real deal here. Was thinking on taking it to a shop, since i don't have too many tools. But after watching this, i'm just gonna buy what I need and do it myself. Awesome video. Screw the thumbs down.
Absolutely fantastic video!! I watched a few other videos prior to finding your video and was beginning to consider sending the truck to a shop for the repair. After watching your video a couple of times, I felt a great deal more comfortable and tackled the project in about 3 1/2 hours. I highly recommend this video to anyone attempting this repair!
Thank you guys for knowledge. Just got done doing this project on my 2000 Chevy Silverado. Really not a bad job. Did everything like you suggested and turned out great. You are great in detail and recommend this video for anybody with one of these older Silverados or vehicle with the 5.3 vortec. Thanks for your help. God bless.😊
3 steps. Thumbs up. Subscribed. Click bell icon. I gotta do this job on my '02 5.3L Silverado. I've been watching dozens of "how to" videos for the last 2 weeks and I must say that this video is hands down the BEST VIDEO on this subject. Thanks. Great camera work. Love the tools needed section. Love the "44 steps" step by step description. Chris in Boulder CO USA.
Really can’t thank you guys enough! Saved me a ton of cash. It sucked for sure, but I wouldn’t have attempted it without your guidance. Kudos fellas. Nice of you to take the time to do this!
This is a great video. I have watched several videos on replacing the knock sensors. Your video had all the fine details and very well explained to make the job easier for someone to do this. I really like that you explained the socket sizes needed and torque specs. Saves someone time digging thru the tool box and trying sockets to find the size and saves time looking up the torque specs. I'm about to do this job shortly on my truck. Thanks.
Thanks so much for this video. I was not wanting to pay to have this fixed, but the job seemed daunting. It wasn’t simple, but your video seriously helped so I could do it. I did replace the manifold gaskets, cleaned out the throttle body, replaced the knock sensor gaskets in the valley pan, replaced the valley pan gasket, and also replaced the oil pressure sensor.
Video really helped, what didn't help was when I snapped off the fitting behind the throttle body, then had a literal rats nest under my manifold, and then I had to pull the lift plate to get to the back knock sensor and then had to use a special extractor tool because it was rusted to shit. But, I really do appreciate yall.
Pretty similar I’m doing 03 2500 with 6.0 and I been watching videos for a week and this helped me breathe and go into it fully assured to fix , I had to remove the foam piece in the rear of my intake and do some RTV to divert the water for future.
Thanks for this video. Just finished up both sensors and the harness on my truck. Looked really intimidating until i watched your video. 1.5 hours and done.
Really ? For me they always seem complicated until I find the RIGHT video and jump in. Once I'm in there it's all quite simple. Just a matter of having all the proper tools really.
@@rosieanciola3685 every car and truck is different. You never know what problem they might give you when fixing something? But I agree with you. After watching 100 videos you will start to get it.
@@rosieanciola3685 I totally agree. 15 mm Wrench 15 mm socket and Ratchet 8 mm 1/4" swivel socket 1/4" Extension 12" long Electric ratchet 1/4 drive GM fuel coupler disconnect tool ( The only special tool you need) Pry bar and hammer Needle nose pliers and 90 degree pick 22 mm socket, Extension and ratchet And 50 minutes to get the job done.
@@tedfox2683 yes. I've rebuilt most of my tranny on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the hardest parts were when I was trying to force a tool to work on something it wasn't meant to 🤦🏽♀️
Thanks guys, followed this one for my 1st time removing the manifold on an ls. Found tons of oil in the manny but didnt have the ls6 valley cover to fix it for good. Plan to pop her open again down the road, cant wait to cut my time in half!
This video was great! I might suggest that the camshaft position sensor should have been replaced while you were that far into it. I am about to embark on this very project this week and I will definitely be referring to this video. Thank you so much. You made this look easy.
LOL... I am a mechanic myself and when I have a good size job I'm doing I like to review the procedure in the book or on youtube. Most RUclips vids are long winded with people talking about their kids Birthday or a history of peanut butter or some other long unneccesary yaking. Your video was to the point and professional. Thank you thank you thank you.
These guys are great!!! I just used their list of steps to work on my Yukon. I checked off the list step by step so I didn't forget anything. It went great!! Thank you so much for a great video and I loved the check list. You guys rock!!
Great video, it helped me a lot with my 2007 Silverado classic only difference was injector harness. I did have an issue where the rear knockout sensor was rusted. I wasn't even able to put a ratchet on it. It got so bad where the top was basically missing. It only left the knockout sensor body walls and threads to the engine. I ended up removing the "valley" so I can remove the rear sensor. Besides the rusted sensor this video was very helpful. I would recommend to add RTV sealant to prevent water to get in the sensors. Again great Video!
Definitely emphasis needed on INCH POUNDS for the intake manifold bolts. First one I set to 44 ft lbs like a complete dummy because I wasn't paying attention enough and sheared it right off. Yay!
I just performed this on my 2004 silverado, hardest part was removing the fuel line (becuase i didnt have the special tools) and disconnecting the 2 hoses under the throttle body. other than that it was allot of fun and easy, re assembally is even more fun and allot easier than disassembly. One part in this video i saw was to prevent future corrosion to that back knock sensor is remove a small foam piece in the back top of the intake manifold.
Throttle cable, cruise control cable and fuel pump relay. When you start let fuel pressure build first. I would have cleaned all the surfaces, siliconed the covers replaced the harness and gaskets. Great video maybe even the best one out their. Thanks.
My truck is nearing 150xxx miles and when I torqued on the intake manifokd bolts I had one break off inside of the header. Recommend new intake manifold bolts for this repair. It was so much getting that out without ruining my head! Bolts were factory OEM bolts and this happened on the lower torque first pass. Careful!
Great video guys; even my wife was impressed. I did change my intake gaskets because they " crushed" unevenly on one or two intake ports and i thought it would be prudent to go ahead and change them. I did have to clean a lot in that area since i have 263,000 miles on it . thanks for a great video.
Nice and informant. I had a few other items on my 2001 5.3. ERG line and throttle/cruse cables. Service engine light still on. I'll for information to clear. That was a lot of work. You guys really helped me out.
Superb video. I will probably have to tackle this job soon on my '04 Silverado. (DTC but no check engine lite). I am so thankful you guys took the time to explain it all in such perfect detail and with nothing unnecessary (unlike so many videos). Thanks again - great job!
I was in deed looking for a solution to my knock sensor problem. Your video is extremely helpful and nicely detailed. Thank You Blue Driver.com. I will recommend you to my mechanic friends.
But you did replace the gasket. I just watched the same video but edited for knock sensors. Sneaky sneaky! 😂 these videos do help alot though. Thank you!
Hey guys, awesome video!!! Just completed this procedure on my 2001 GMC 5.3. The video and explanations were excellent!!! Thank you very much. Joe Colon, Tucson, AZ.
Friendly tip. If you do this its wise to replace the harness at the same time. Over time the heat cycling of the wires can make them brittle. It would be a shame to have to do this again because a wire broke a month or 2 later. Also I highly recommend to stick with AC delco sensors
@@LemurMonitors i just did the job for the 2nd time. each time i used this video as a guide.... even though i probably didnt need to haha. its a pretty straight forward job. i did it over a saturday and sunday, affording myself to thoroughly clean the grease and grime off the engine block and valve covers. engine looks a lot newer than 140k haha
Good video but here's what they missed my 2 cents worth. Take the time to clean the intake valley, vacuum, degrease & wipe, as stated cover intake tunnels. Do not put in after market knock sensors, use GM AC Delco only (after markets have a high failure rate) and clean the recessed seat where they sit in, (rust jacking etc.) this is where they ground (I apply thin film of copper coat) the single wire is power only. There is a GM bulletin to build a dam out of RV silicone in the valley between the sensors to keep any trapped water away from them, this causes 90% of the failure of knock sensors on 5.3 vortec, and other v8's. TIP: quit wanding while cleaning your motor at the car wash or fording deep streams while 4x4ing, there is no where for that water to escape once it's in the intake valley, which inturn takes out your sensors. If you do not replace the rubber gaskets on the intake manifold, inspect them carefully for any damage, you do not want an intake leak. Follow the rest of the video and you should be gold.
Hey bobbie bigg that threaded hole that the knock sensor sits in. is it open at the bottom where rust can fall into the engine if you were cleaning the threads and the hole out?
I'm glad the knock sensor on my 99 gmc yukon was on the side of the block , just took off the passenger side tire for easy access and was done in 10 minutes.
So, I did this on my 03 suburban and now have to do it on my 01. A few tips. get new throttle body gasket and intake manifold gaskets while you're in there. GET A NEW KNOCK SENSOR HARNESS KIT!!! Might as well replace both knock sensors. The old ones are brittle and will break leaving you stuck on the job. Spray PB blaster on the knock sensors and WAIT 30 minutes before attempting to remove them. especially if the RTV let water in. they will be rusty and will snap (Been there, I cried for hours) . Other than that take your time pulling the intake off as there is little play on the harness and all that other gack you gotta feed it through. Remember to use high heat RTV to seal up the knock sensor grommets. REMEMBER the bolt pattern and torque when fastening back down. start in the middle, work your way counter clockwise 44psi, then 85 psi.This is a 3 hour job easy.
OMG!!! Your video has been THE BEST so far with changing out the knock sensor. I have a 2003 Chevy Suburban and I changed out some parts and this is my last one to do. I believe in saving money and you helped me save it. Time to get to work. Thank you guys for this AWESOME video and yes I definitely subscribed to your channel.
Thanks for the video. It really helped me do the job my self. $56 each sensor at Autozone $126 for both. Lifetime warranty. There’s was only one problem I ran into during the process. Last sensor was rusted and corrected. The first sensor came out easy and looked new. The rear was not to good. I said dear god help me get this off with out issues. I gently press down with a 22 mm socket and waaala. I was thinking the worse when I seen that sensor in bad shape. The clips that snap to the sensor broke off as I tried picking up the plastic plug. But I manage to make it work with out changing the harness. I sealed the black plugs to prevent moisture with the single middle wire. I also had to unplug the gas line with a small screw driver. Didn’t have the tool. I now need to reset the check engine light and hope it stays off. Thanks for the video. I saved easy $600 to $1,000. Maybe more
Many parts places recommend installing a new wire harness for the know sensors. Also, there is a service bulletin for the sensors. After you replaced them, make a dam around the rubber grommets with some silicone. It helps stop water from seeping in under the rubber.
Thank you bluedriver. I had a heck of a time doing this job. And I wouldn't have been able to do it if not for this video. You showing how to properly remove the fuel injection plugs really helped. I have an 02 4.8 tahoe and the hardest part was those dang coolant hose clamps on the throttle body. Getting them off and putting them back on was about 2 hours of labor😣. Next time I'm taking your advice on the special hose clamp pliers👍🏼
Thanks so much for this video!! I just bought a new to me (used) 05 Sierra 1500 and this code came up the next day. Your video was excellent and I got the sensors changed in a day along with the spark plugs.
Hey guys there is a service manual on this vehicle to build a dam with silicone around the knock sensor cap. As to not let water pool up in the sensor depression. This is important on the 5.3 Chevy. Look it up. Good video guys.
Just did my sensors today and it was much easier than it seems. This vid was great as I just paused after each step. I did add the silicon to the boots to help keep moisture off of the sensors. Oh and don’t use a big torque wrench, I snapped a bolt with mine. I found that the rear sensor was rusted badly and wonder if this is the same issue others are finding.
This is a really excellent video guys, except for ONE thing. At 1:58 where you list the tools needed, you need to specify that the torque wrench is for INCH-POUNDS, not the foot- pound one used for brake jobs. It's a really devastating thing to discover when you've already torn apart the engine, especially if you started while the auto parts store was still open, but had to pause to say, put kids to bed. A fella's up a creek at that point. And yes, I know I'm gonna get a ton of comments about watching the whole video before starting the job, but we've all made this kind of mistake at one point or another. Just recommending a tiny edit to save the next guy.
Inch pounds not foot pounds. I need to listen better. Oh well. Can’t thank you enough for the lesson, gave me piece of mind with my truck. Very detailed and appreciated.
This is an easy but time consuming job but I like how the RUclips guys always say it’s an easy job and you can do it, which you usually can but a mechanic will tell you “don’t even try it!” You’ll destroy your engine and the cost will be 3 times as much if you do that! 😂😂😂😂😂 Remember you can do it! You just need a few tools usually a good tool KIT will have almost everything you need minus a torque wrench
I don’t comment on YT videos but DAMN. Best video out there. I’ve never had more than the intake tube off of this truck before and I just swapped out both sensors, harness, and gaskets in less than 2 hours. Watched this video and printed your PDF guide and I was set. Having a tool list was great too. Thanks guys. Keep it up!! Dummies like me depend on you.
@@STMFC so you were able to get all the AC Delco parts from oreilly including the intake manifold gasket, 2 knock sensors and the knock sensor wiring harness?
Very detailed video you guys rock! Thank you for all your help and knowledge. I’ve seen on one video this person cleaned the knock sensor holes and blew compressed air in before replacing them. Do you think that’s necessary or extras? Also, he placed a lot of silicone lines to try to stop water from going in the knock sensor holes. 🕳 In addition, he removed a foam padding because it holds back water or antifreeze if one of radiator hoses ever broke. That’s how the sensor starts rusting because of the liquid that stays in there 🕳 . It eventually evaporates but still damages the material. You guys are the pro though let me know if that silicone thing is effective or not?
Just finished this on my 05 Suburban, very easy to follow, although mine didn't have the brake booster hose. One thing I'd like to add is be cautious when removing the vacuum line from behind the throttle body, mine is/was a particularly flimsy plastic 90° nipple that the hose slides over, mine broke when removing the hose, best bet would be to remove his from other end, away from the throttle body. The piece that broke off is a part of the exhaust manifold and cannot be replaced (jerry rigged atm but working) and a new exhaust manifold from Chevy was quoted at $776.00. As already mentioned, excellent video.
If you’re reading the comments, then you’re looking for any useful tidbits... here’s one: The small coolant hose below and to the right of the throttle body IS A PAIN IN THE ASS!!! Go to the auto store and buy a foot cooling hose that goes from underneath the throttle body to the engine block. Reason: this is a hard to get small hose that is equally hard to replace as it is to remove. Since you’re putting a lot of effort to get to the Knock Sensors might as well put a new hose line in. It might be worth investing in hose clamp pliers, I had a hell of a time switching from needle nose to Reg pliers to angle needle nose pliers. All in all, it wasn’t that bad, just that damn small hose 😂 I never did remove the throttle body, it might have been easier to remove and replace the small hose after watching this video. I also didn’t remove the EGR, I just disconnected the cable and hose. 👉Don’t forget to silicon with high temp silicon the knock sensor rubber caps to prevent water from dropping into the knock sensor well!!! 👈 Make sure you have a engine degreaser or a strong cleaner like “Goof Off” and avacuum cleaner to clean up the manifold and the engine block area. Make sure you don’t drop anything into the open slots. A clean engine block makes replacing the manifold with new gaskets a breeze! Have fun and enjoy saving $700 at a garage by doing this yourself!
One issue I ran into that would be great to address is how to remove the knock sensor it is completely rusted. From what I understand that’s one of the most common reasons these things throw an error (water gets into the rear sensor eventually rusting it out). I used lacquer thinner to clean as much rust off as possible. Fortunately the socket worked after the clean up. My back up plan was JB Weld the socket onto the sensor.
By far the best video I've seen on this procedure, hell this might be the best video I've seen on any auto repair! After watching a few others I didn't want any part of this repair but now I feel like it's no problem. Ordering the parts now.
Exactly what I was thinking. Other videos seemed a bit vague and didnt get close up enough. Basically just seems like dissabmely and assembly. I have the parts on the way and going to take a whack at it when they get here
i have to agree with you 100%
I have everything and was taking it to a mechanic! But scrap that! While I'm at it I'm doing my throttle body and alternator
BIG HELP !
💖THANK-YOU For This GREAT Video !!!💖
Total mechanic newbie but knocked this replacement out of the park yesterday. Couldn't have done it without these gents and this superbly made video. Cheers!!
Thanks guys. I'm about to perform this exact repair on my 5.3 and you have by far the most clear and thorough step by step guide I've found so far with the best camera angles too. I will most certainly be referring to this as I work. One other detail worth mentioning is that GM has a technical service bulletin out about the knock sensor replacement. They recommend removing the foam seal on the rear side of the intake manifold visible at 14:25 in the video upon re-installation. This is to allow any intruding water to easily drain out the back. Also, they suggest placing a dam of RTV sealant around each knock sensor hole with a small opening facing the rear of the engine to further prevent water intrusion. Cheers.
Thanks for the tip! I'll be doing this to my 5.3 this weekend.
Thank you so much. Great Information . Planning to do my repair tomorrow. Thanks to BlueDriver and your advise.
swapped out the oil pressure sensor and intake manifold gaskets while I was at it and really cleaned the block being careful nothing got in those holes and even then, took me about 3 hours. just pausing a playing the video going step by step! you guys are amazing!
Just did mine today while watching this video step by step. Really helped a lot. Not that hard of a job, just a lot to take loose. I did go a step further and put new intake gaskets in and permatex around the covers on knock sensors. Thanks for the video
Not at all - it looks like a handful up front but take your time and most people should be able to do it
I recently had to replace the knock sensors in my 06 silverado. I watched your video on my tablet while doing so and it was easy. Thanks for the tutorial.
I just did this repair today it took me just under 6 hours. Well worth the time to do it myself. Had to remove the valley cover for the back knock sensor was rusted on tight so I had more work added. After I was all done my truck runs so much better. Made a big difference in engine performance. Still need to get the code cleared. Thanks for the informative video.
If this sensor goes bad, does it cause a no start to the engine? Cranks but doesn't start?
@@Ryan_1997No
Very detailed step by step, would recommend replacing the gasket and both seals where the knock sensor sits while you’re there if anyone is doing this repair
I just performed this repair on my 2005 Suburban 1500 LT 5.3L. Took about 2 hours start to finish. This video was exactly what I needed! I took my laptop to the shop, watched some of the video, paused, then performed the task. At first I was fearing the fix, but after I got into it, it flowed like milk-n-honey. I did use some Red RTV Gasket Maker on the knock sensor wiring harness rubber gasket. I also replaced the manifold gasket. You guys did a great job with this video! Fear no fix!
Nowhere near as bad as it looks, is it!
Love how y’all went step by step I’ve never really worked on cars but with this video I was able to replace my 01 silverados , thanks guys
great Video guys.no annoying music no crap talking.
will be doing this on my 01 Denali XL 6.0 . looks pretty simple.
miss the old days when you could remove a intake and replace in no time.
My knock sensors and PCM are in process of being replaced. This really helped me to appreciate where all the labor costs go to for the sensors. WHAT A PAIN IN THE REAR! Thanks so much!
👍🏽 did it myself no issues. Recommend replacing wire harness.
Thank you guys for a very informative video. After watching a couple of times I was able to get this job done in just under 4hrs. Not to bad for a carpenter. Top notch step by step instructions. Thanks again!!
Honestly never work on my cars and just by watching this video step by step I was able to complete this repair! Thanks
I just completed this repair on a 2006 Tahoe. This video was spot on and really helped me to understand the proper techniques. After purchasing the sensors and a few tools, I completed the job in about 3 hours, including a few breaks. The rear connectors on the injectors were a real bitch. I would recommend disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery to be safe.
This is the second time that I have used this video to replace the knock sensors. Thank you, guys, so much. I am hoping that I never have to do it again. Plus, all in all, with your help in the video it took me back to the days when I loved working with cars, most of all my 41 Chevy Special Deluxe Coupe. Thanks again for the detailed video, it will give confidence to those that might not have all the courage to jump into this type of project. 3/19/2022
Really good video. I like the detail but also concise. - I've got the P0332 code and will be doing this job shortly. 2005 GMC Yukon XL SLT 5.3L (311,000 miles original engine and transmission) My only comment is a me thing. I would never put it back together without cleaning everything - especially the valley pan and other stuff not normally accessible. Nice job.
Thanks guys,This is One of The best human audio illustrated videos of replacing a knock sensor I've seen & heard👍🏽👍🏽
Chris & Jim, thanks for making this video. In parts and tools I spent $100. I was nervous going into this but the clear-cut video made it easy. Replaced my sensors and in my part of the country and the rough quote I had I was looking at a $1,000 repair. My ‘04 Chevy Tahoe is running great and gained horsepower by fixing the sensor. All ready for summer vacation with the money I saved!
Did u really torque the bolts down?
Thanks for all the info. I finished my 2005 Sierra 5.3 today. No codes! Just take your time and follow the directions and take your time and you'll be fine
The cleanest, straight forward with no nonsense step by step video
Thank you
Such a great video. Step by step, easy to follow, straight to the point. THANK YOU, from a single mom tired of going to mechanics who either cause more problems then before or overcharge me for everyyything. I was able to do this project with my Dad, if we didn't get stuck on a rusted knock sensor this probably would have only taken 3-4 hours. So kudos to you guys for making a comprehensible video! THANK YOU!
This the real deal here. Was thinking on taking it to a shop, since i don't have too many tools. But after watching this, i'm just gonna buy what I need and do it myself. Awesome video.
Screw the thumbs down.
Very detailed. Video was long, but it's the best long video I've seen. The instruction was clear and precise. Can't wait to perform this task. Thanks.
This video was by far one of the most useful. It gave me the confidence to get that job done. Many thanks for the money saved and lesson learned
Absolutely fantastic video!! I watched a few other videos prior to finding your video and was beginning to consider sending the truck to a shop for the repair. After watching your video a couple of times, I felt a great deal more comfortable and tackled the project in about 3 1/2 hours. I highly recommend this video to anyone attempting this repair!
Thank you guys for knowledge. Just got done doing this project on my 2000 Chevy Silverado. Really not a bad job. Did everything like you suggested and turned out great. You are great in detail and recommend this video for anybody with one of these older Silverados or vehicle with the 5.3 vortec. Thanks for your help. God bless.😊
Thanks guys...my son and I did this repair this weekend only because you did such a good jog on this video.
3 steps. Thumbs up. Subscribed. Click bell icon. I gotta do this job on my '02 5.3L Silverado. I've been watching dozens of "how to" videos for the last 2 weeks and I must say that this video is hands down the BEST VIDEO on this subject. Thanks. Great camera work. Love the tools needed section. Love the "44 steps" step by step description. Chris in Boulder CO USA.
She's a long one, but completely doable!
except for that kink in the evap line, seal the knock sensor in place, AND he didn't clean off the mating surfaces.
This video is much better than the A1-Auto video
Thank you very much! We try our best to help everyone really Fear No Fix!
Really can’t thank you guys enough! Saved me a ton of cash. It sucked for sure, but I wouldn’t have attempted it without your guidance. Kudos fellas. Nice of you to take the time to do this!
Very welcome Jay! Glad we could be of help! Fear No Fix!
This is a great video. I have watched several videos on replacing the knock sensors. Your video had all the fine details and very well explained to make the job easier for someone to do this. I really like that you explained the socket sizes needed and torque specs. Saves someone time digging thru the tool box and trying sockets to find the size and saves time looking up the torque specs. I'm about to do this job shortly on my truck. Thanks.
Thanks so much for this video. I was not wanting to pay to have this fixed, but the job seemed daunting. It wasn’t simple, but your video seriously helped so I could do it. I did replace the manifold gaskets, cleaned out the throttle body, replaced the knock sensor gaskets in the valley pan, replaced the valley pan gasket, and also replaced the oil pressure sensor.
Video really helped, what didn't help was when I snapped off the fitting behind the throttle body, then had a literal rats nest under my manifold, and then I had to pull the lift plate to get to the back knock sensor and then had to use a special extractor tool because it was rusted to shit. But, I really do appreciate yall.
Oh my! Glad we could of at least helped you get it done!
Great video, my friend and I followed it step-by-step on his '04 Suburban 5.3L and were very successful, almost couldn't believe how well it went.
Pretty similar I’m doing 03 2500 with 6.0 and I been watching videos for a week and this helped me breathe and go into it fully assured to fix , I had to remove the foam piece in the rear of my intake and do some RTV to divert the water for future.
I gotta do it to my 03 k2500 burban 6.0..
I watched the video once before starting to change the knock sensors by myself. Was able to get the job done in under 1.5 hours. Great video.
Not as bad as it looks is it!
@@LemurMonitors Not at all.
Thanks for this video. Just finished up both sensors and the harness on my truck. Looked really intimidating until i watched your video. 1.5 hours and done.
Did you buy 2 of the same sensor or are they different?
These mechanical jobs always look easy until you do it yourself.
Really ? For me they always seem complicated until I find the RIGHT video and jump in. Once I'm in there it's all quite simple. Just a matter of having all the proper tools really.
@@rosieanciola3685 every car and truck is different. You never know what problem they might give you when fixing something?
But I agree with you. After watching 100 videos you will start to get it.
@@rosieanciola3685 I totally agree.
15 mm Wrench
15 mm socket and Ratchet
8 mm 1/4" swivel socket
1/4" Extension 12" long
Electric ratchet 1/4 drive
GM fuel coupler disconnect tool ( The only special tool you need)
Pry bar and hammer
Needle nose pliers and 90 degree pick
22 mm socket, Extension and ratchet
And 50 minutes to get the job done.
@@tedfox2683 yes. I've rebuilt most of my tranny on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the hardest parts were when I was trying to force a tool to work on something it wasn't meant to 🤦🏽♀️
Factual
Thank You! Hey, don't forget to put the Fuel Pump Relay back in. Have used the AC Relay for the Fuel Pump Relay in a pinch.
While you have the intake off, consider replacing the oil pressure sensor. Especially if it’s pegging out at max.
Dude great idea. I didn't even think of that.
I agree, and also the filter under the sensor. You need a 1=1/16 socket 6 point.
@@jamesdumez8022were is this filter located on wich sensor?
Might as well do the cam sensor to.
Thanks guys, followed this one for my 1st time removing the manifold on an ls. Found tons of oil in the manny but didnt have the ls6 valley cover to fix it for good. Plan to pop her open again down the road, cant wait to cut my time in half!
This video was great! I might suggest that the camshaft position sensor should have been replaced while you were that far into it. I am about to embark on this very project this week and I will definitely be referring to this video. Thank you so much. You made this look easy.
LOL... I am a mechanic myself and when I have a good size job I'm doing I like to review the procedure in the book or on youtube. Most RUclips vids are long winded with people talking about their kids Birthday or a history of peanut butter or some other long unneccesary yaking.
Your video was to the point and professional. Thank you thank you thank you.
Nothing worse than having the scan around trying to find the part that actually matters
These guys are great!!! I just used their list of steps to work on my Yukon. I checked off the list step by step so I didn't forget anything. It went great!! Thank you so much for a great video and I loved the check list. You guys rock!!
Great video, it helped me a lot with my 2007 Silverado classic only difference was injector harness. I did have an issue where the rear knockout sensor was rusted. I wasn't even able to put a ratchet on it. It got so bad where the top was basically missing. It only left the knockout sensor body walls and threads to the engine. I ended up removing the "valley" so I can remove the rear sensor. Besides the rusted sensor this video was very helpful. I would recommend to add RTV sealant to prevent water to get in the sensors. Again great Video!
Great video! Very clear and precise. Just don’t forget to plug back your fuel pump relay.
love the video 🙌🙌but the way he handled the evap line 😭😭😭we know damn well our shit gone snap if we do some bending like that 💀💀💀
Nice job,great video guys ! I have 05 Yukon 90,000 miles..No current issues..
To bad you guy didnt get to the head gaskets. I'm starting my head job tomorrow. Your videos are super useful and well done.
Wouldn't mind seeing that video either. If you make one let us know!
Definitely emphasis needed on INCH POUNDS for the intake manifold bolts. First one I set to 44 ft lbs like a complete dummy because I wasn't paying attention enough and sheared it right off. Yay!
I just performed this on my 2004 silverado, hardest part was removing the fuel line (becuase i didnt have the special tools) and disconnecting the 2 hoses under the throttle body. other than that it was allot of fun and easy, re assembally is even more fun and allot easier than disassembly.
One part in this video i saw was to prevent future corrosion to that back knock sensor is remove a small foam piece in the back top of the intake manifold.
Throttle cable, cruise control cable and fuel pump relay. When you start let fuel pressure build first. I would have cleaned all the surfaces, siliconed the covers replaced the harness and gaskets. Great video maybe even the best one out their. Thanks.
Thank you!
My truck is nearing 150xxx miles and when I torqued on the intake manifokd bolts I had one break off inside of the header. Recommend new intake manifold bolts for this repair. It was so much getting that out without ruining my head! Bolts were factory OEM bolts and this happened on the lower torque first pass. Careful!
Hey guys going to do this on my Tahoe 2005...this weekend guys this is going to help bigtimes...thanks...keep rocking...7/13/2020....San Antonio TX
Great video guys; even my wife was impressed. I did change my intake gaskets because they " crushed" unevenly on one or two intake ports and i thought it would be prudent to go ahead and change them. I did have to clean a lot in that area since i have 263,000 miles on it . thanks for a great video.
Nice and informant. I had a few other items on my 2001 5.3. ERG line and throttle/cruse cables. Service engine light still on.
I'll for information to clear. That was a lot of work. You guys really helped me out.
This video helped me get the job done in under 2 hrs. Yay!
Superb video. I will probably have to tackle this job soon on my '04 Silverado. (DTC but no check engine lite). I am so thankful you guys took the time to explain it all in such perfect detail and with nothing unnecessary (unlike so many videos). Thanks again - great job!
I'm tackling mine next weekend! Your video gives me the confidence to do it. And step by step instructions! Thanks a ton.
I was in deed looking for a solution to my knock sensor problem. Your video is extremely helpful and nicely detailed. Thank You Blue Driver.com. I will recommend you to my mechanic friends.
But you did replace the gasket. I just watched the same video but edited for knock sensors. Sneaky sneaky! 😂 these videos do help alot though. Thank you!
Hey guys, awesome video!!! Just completed this procedure on my 2001 GMC 5.3. The video and explanations were excellent!!! Thank you very much. Joe Colon, Tucson, AZ.
Question! Was the ticking more from the top of the engine or bottom??
Hey me to Tucson az haha
took me a while but I did it. thank you guys so much best video of auto repair i’ve ever seen to be honest.
That's awesome, thanks for the feedback and happy we could help!
Friendly tip. If you do this its wise to replace the harness at the same time. Over time the heat cycling of the wires can make them brittle. It would be a shame to have to do this again because a wire broke a month or 2 later. Also I highly recommend to stick with AC delco sensors
Good call
@@LemurMonitors i just did the job for the 2nd time. each time i used this video as a guide.... even though i probably didnt need to haha. its a pretty straight forward job. i did it over a saturday and sunday, affording myself to thoroughly clean the grease and grime off the engine block and valve covers. engine looks a lot newer than 140k haha
Did this today. Took about 3 hours by myself. Pretty easy.
Good video but here's what they missed my 2 cents worth. Take the time to clean the intake valley, vacuum, degrease & wipe, as stated cover intake tunnels. Do not put in after market knock sensors, use GM AC Delco only (after markets have a high failure rate) and clean the recessed seat where they sit in, (rust jacking etc.) this is where they ground (I apply thin film of copper coat) the single wire is power only. There is a GM bulletin to build a dam out of RV silicone in the valley between the sensors to keep any trapped water away from them, this causes 90% of the failure of knock sensors on 5.3 vortec, and other v8's. TIP: quit wanding while cleaning your motor at the car wash or fording deep streams while 4x4ing, there is no where for that water to escape once it's in the intake valley, which inturn takes out your sensors. If you do not replace the rubber gaskets on the intake manifold, inspect them carefully for any damage, you do not want an intake leak. Follow the rest of the video and you should be gold.
You should start your own mechanics channel then smart guy.
Hey bobbie bigg that threaded hole that the knock sensor sits in. is it open at the bottom where rust can fall into the engine if you were cleaning the threads and the hole out?
I'm glad the knock sensor on my 99 gmc yukon was on the side of the block , just took off the passenger side tire for easy access and was done in 10 minutes.
So, I did this on my 03 suburban and now have to do it on my 01. A few tips. get new throttle body gasket and intake manifold gaskets while you're in there. GET A NEW KNOCK SENSOR HARNESS KIT!!! Might as well replace both knock sensors. The old ones are brittle and will break leaving you stuck on the job. Spray PB blaster on the knock sensors and WAIT 30 minutes before attempting to remove them. especially if the RTV let water in. they will be rusty and will snap (Been there, I cried for hours) . Other than that take your time pulling the intake off as there is little play on the harness and all that other gack you gotta feed it through. Remember to use high heat RTV to seal up the knock sensor grommets. REMEMBER the bolt pattern and torque when fastening back down. start in the middle, work your way counter clockwise 44psi, then 85 psi.This is a 3 hour job easy.
I caught the Canadian accent the first time you said: out! Great video!!!
OMG!!! Your video has been THE BEST so far with changing out the knock sensor. I have a 2003 Chevy Suburban and I changed out some parts and this is my last one to do. I believe in saving money and you helped me save it. Time to get to work. Thank you guys for this AWESOME video and yes I definitely subscribed to your channel.
Best video I have seen on the task at hand! Very impressive. Thank you!
Thanks for the video.
It really helped me do the job my self.
$56 each sensor at Autozone $126 for both.
Lifetime warranty.
There’s was only one problem I ran into during the process. Last sensor was rusted and corrected. The first sensor came out easy and looked new. The rear was not to good. I said dear god help me get this off with out issues. I gently press down with a 22 mm socket and waaala. I was thinking the worse when I seen that sensor in bad shape.
The clips that snap to the sensor broke off as I tried picking up the plastic plug. But I manage to make it work with out changing the harness.
I sealed the black plugs to prevent moisture with the single middle wire. I also had to unplug the gas line with a small screw driver. Didn’t have the tool. I now need to reset the check engine light and hope it stays off.
Thanks for the video. I saved easy $600 to $1,000. Maybe more
Good call sealing it after, nothing more terrifying than breaking loose anything real corroded/rusty
Many parts places recommend installing a new wire harness for the know sensors. Also, there is a service bulletin for the sensors. After you replaced them, make a dam around the rubber grommets with some silicone. It helps stop water from seeping in under the rubber.
You guys are great! I’ve not yet to try anything ever like that so I’m gonna watch a bit more,.!
Great Job !!!
Watched video first, very informational and helpful! Took4 hours,only problem I ordered the parts from Amazingzon!Great coverage!👍
Thank you bluedriver. I had a heck of a time doing this job. And I wouldn't have been able to do it if not for this video. You showing how to properly remove the fuel injection plugs really helped. I have an 02 4.8 tahoe and the hardest part was those dang coolant hose clamps on the throttle body. Getting them off and putting them back on was about 2 hours of labor😣. Next time I'm taking your advice on the special hose clamp pliers👍🏼
Worth every cent!
Thanks so much for this video!! I just bought a new to me (used) 05 Sierra 1500 and this code came up the next day. Your video was excellent and I got the sensors changed in a day along with the spark plugs.
Awesome! Glad we could help!
Hey guys there is a service manual on this vehicle to build a dam with silicone around the knock sensor cap. As to not let water pool up in the sensor depression. This is important on the 5.3 Chevy. Look it up. Good video guys.
You guys are Amazing Very informative and helped me fix my sensors without missing any step.
Just did my sensors today and it was much easier than it seems. This vid was great as I just paused after each step. I did add the silicon to the boots to help keep moisture off of the sensors. Oh and don’t use a big torque wrench, I snapped a bolt with mine.
I found that the rear sensor was rusted badly and wonder if this is the same issue others are finding.
This is a really excellent video guys, except for ONE thing. At 1:58 where you list the tools needed, you need to specify that the torque wrench is for INCH-POUNDS, not the foot- pound one used for brake jobs. It's a really devastating thing to discover when you've already torn apart the engine, especially if you started while the auto parts store was still open, but had to pause to say, put kids to bed. A fella's up a creek at that point. And yes, I know I'm gonna get a ton of comments about watching the whole video before starting the job, but we've all made this kind of mistake at one point or another. Just recommending a tiny edit to save the next guy.
Inch pounds not foot pounds. I need to listen better. Oh well. Can’t thank you enough for the lesson, gave me piece of mind with my truck. Very detailed and appreciated.
So it’s not 89 foot pounds right? I thought that was to much or is that correct?
Thanks for this post is was a vital part of me getting my knock sensor replaced the right way.
Happy to help!
Never done this before so this is super helpful. I’ll let you know how it goes in a couple days.
Good luck!
This is an easy but time consuming job but I like how the RUclips guys always say it’s an easy job and you can do it, which you usually can but a mechanic will tell you “don’t even try it!” You’ll destroy your engine and the cost will be 3 times as much if you do that! 😂😂😂😂😂 Remember you can do it! You just need a few tools usually a good tool KIT will have almost everything you need minus a torque wrench
I don’t comment on YT videos but DAMN. Best video out there. I’ve never had more than the intake tube off of this truck before and I just swapped out both sensors, harness, and gaskets in less than 2 hours. Watched this video and printed your PDF guide and I was set. Having a tool list was great too. Thanks guys. Keep it up!! Dummies like me depend on you.
The sensors you just buy 2 of the same one?
Where did you find the harness? Did you find an AC delco one? And how do you install it?
Brad Menezes Fishing O’Reilly Auto had it all in stock for me. No issues since swapping them. Make sure to build up a dam with the silicone crap!
@@STMFC so you were able to get all the AC Delco parts from oreilly including the intake manifold gasket, 2 knock sensors and the knock sensor wiring harness?
Brad Menezes Fishing yep!
Great video, and step by step guide. Feeling much more confident about tackling this repair this weekend! DYI on my friends!
Best detailed video I've ever seen! Still a little intimidating but at least you guys gave me hope! Keep up the good work 👍
It looks scary but give it an afternoon to do, take it one step at a time and there's nothing to it.
Great video, very helpful in replacing the knock sensors in my 2003 Silverado.
Very detailed video you guys rock! Thank you for all your help and knowledge.
I’ve seen on one video this person cleaned the knock sensor holes and blew compressed air in before replacing them. Do you think that’s necessary or extras? Also, he placed a lot of silicone lines to try to stop water from going in the knock sensor holes. 🕳
In addition, he removed a foam padding because it holds back water or antifreeze if one of radiator hoses ever broke. That’s how the sensor starts rusting because of the liquid that stays in there 🕳 . It eventually evaporates but still damages the material.
You guys are the pro though let me know if that silicone thing is effective or not?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! This video was definitely a money saver! I was able to do this procedure with no complications.! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Just finished this on my 05 Suburban, very easy to follow, although mine didn't have the brake booster hose. One thing I'd like to add is be cautious when removing the vacuum line from behind the throttle body, mine is/was a particularly flimsy plastic 90° nipple that the hose slides over, mine broke when removing the hose, best bet would be to remove his from other end, away from the throttle body. The piece that broke off is a part of the exhaust manifold and cannot be replaced (jerry rigged atm but working) and a new exhaust manifold from Chevy was quoted at $776.00. As already mentioned, excellent video.
Good call - plastic gets real brittle of the years
Great video! Really helpful! Got it done in four and a half hours!
Very Helpful Video, got me and my buddy through. My sierra is in better shape now 👏🏽
Amazing video. Took me all afternoon but I feel very accomplished. Thank you so much. I look forward to more videos to fix more.
Thank you for the video, its very clear and professional.
If you’re reading the comments, then you’re looking for any useful tidbits... here’s one:
The small coolant hose below and to the right of the throttle body IS A PAIN IN THE ASS!!!
Go to the auto store and buy a foot cooling hose that goes from underneath the throttle body to the engine block. Reason: this is a hard to get small hose that is equally hard to replace as it is to remove. Since you’re putting a lot of effort to get to the Knock Sensors might as well put a new hose line in.
It might be worth investing in hose clamp pliers, I had a hell of a time switching from needle nose to Reg pliers to angle needle nose pliers. All in all, it wasn’t that bad, just that damn small hose 😂
I never did remove the throttle body, it might have been easier to remove and replace the small hose after watching this video. I also didn’t remove the EGR, I just disconnected the cable and hose.
👉Don’t forget to silicon with high temp silicon the knock sensor rubber caps to prevent water from dropping into the knock sensor well!!! 👈
Make sure you have a engine degreaser or a strong cleaner like “Goof Off” and avacuum cleaner to clean up the manifold and the engine block area. Make sure you don’t drop anything into the open slots.
A clean engine block makes replacing the manifold with new gaskets a breeze!
Have fun and enjoy saving $700 at a garage by doing this yourself!
One issue I ran into that would be great to address is how to remove the knock sensor it is completely rusted. From what I understand that’s one of the most common reasons these things throw an error (water gets into the rear sensor eventually rusting it out). I used lacquer thinner to clean as much rust off as possible. Fortunately the socket worked after the clean up. My back up plan was JB Weld the socket onto the sensor.
We soak everything down with a heavy coat of penetrating oil of choice before tackling any job since we live in the rustiest place on earth