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Intake Manifold Gaskets - 1999-2006 5.3L Chevy Silverado (Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, etc.)
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- Опубликовано: 1 ноя 2018
- On this episode of Fear No Fix, Jim and Chris replace the Intake Manifold Gaskets in a 5.3L Chevrolet Silverado (model years 1999-2006*).
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Fix Details:
Tool list and general repair steps here:
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DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) associated with this fix:
• P0171
____________________________________
* Fix may also apply to the following vehicles:
1999 - 2006 GMC Sierra
2002 - 2006 Cadillac Escalade
2000 - 2006 Chevrolet Tahoe
2000 - 2006 GMC Yukon
2000 - 2006 Chevrolet Suburban
2001 - 2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
2007 Silverado Classic
2007 Sierra Classic
This is a great video!! Keep up the great work guys, this was incredibly helpful!
I can’t believe that on a video showing how to change the intake manifold gasket, you didn’t change the knock sensors. It’s just smart to do it while the manifold is out. It saves having to do this exact process to change them when they fail later. Customers hate paying twice for the same labour, and I hate screwing them that way too .
2 hours on my 4.8. Thanks for the video guys and showing the injector clips. A few videos skipped that part. Saw u changed the throttle body, I unscrewed the 3 bolts and pulled it forward instead of undoing the coolant lines.
I did this process step by step. And was great. Thank you for help us out. Save me some on not going to the mechanic shop.
This video just saved me at least 300 bucks. I also learned that my PCV valve is bad because my intake is full of oil. Which is what caused the gasket to get gross . So if you take your intake off and there is oil everywhere that’s the problem. Also you can just take the throttle body off and not mess with those coolant lines; it was impossible without his little tool.Thanks for the video guy!!!!!!
You can also leave the fuel injectors on and just clean both surfaces really well
Very helpful! Took me around 4.5 hours including cleaning the mating surfaces, experimenting with ways to disconnect the fuel lines (2) before finally buying that tool ($10), and also dropping an injector lock clip UNDER the intake after bolting it down.
I left the throttle body coolant lines connected and just rested it out of the way when it came time to pull the intake out.
Old comment but I just wanted to say they took A lot of things out that they didn't have to....
Thank you for posting this video. This is the best, detailed, straight forward video I have found on GM 5.3L manifold gasket replacement.
Thanks fot taking some time to explain how the confounded connectors work. Very helpful!
ONE HOUR!! Sweet!! I’ll be watching g this 5x before I do it next weekend, so I can cut my last one of 3 hours down to ONE!!!
Thank you for this video!!
Wish I would’ve found this several years ago!!!
As a DIYer these videos are fantastic. Any other common failure fixes you could add to this playlist would be greatly appreciated!👍🧡
Hey Everyone! Today was the day !! I have a 03 Tahoe 4.8l and I watched numerous videos of the removal of the Intake manifold and replace the gaskets, Blue Driver is a excellent Video but remember my vehicle is old I even watched about the NOC sensors and even for extra credit I watched the replacement of the Oil Pressure sending unit since mine wasn't working it needed to be replaced. The oil sending unit was the absolute worse even with the intake off.. There must be a tool for that ! The socket was to big to fit! I used a needle nose vise grip. At 12pm today I started to rip apart the intake manifold,, and Blue Driver makes it look so easy.. Which is not although they are experienced. Well I learned a lot today. first off My truck is 16 years old anything past the 12 year mark you will encounter many unseen problems. Such as almost all small plastic connectors " The safety Locking tabs broke from the injectors, then I hit the Heater T connector and broke it, That was fun! Bought a new one, Then I checked the NOC sensor I broke the white part of the stem of the noc, Bought a new one, then the real fun began! Cleaning the deposits of the both sides of engine and intake... I was super careful due to the 1/8 inch high of oily dirt deposits. Vacuuming is a major part of the cleaning! its been 11 hours still not done yet! at 35 degrees outside no garage wearing shorts and long sleeve shirt. I was careful and I'll be honest almost these connectors are bridle and just plain old. It got late and with a headache I quit for the night I'll seal the Noc sensor's covers then install the intake. It's worth watching other videos because guys like me don't do major repairs like this but not afraid I took my time. I'' be honest it was fairly easy just older vehicles you will encounter problems.. btw I can't find my 10 mm with extension its somewhere in the engine hiding lolol WD-40 is big help on certain things,,, Good Luck !!!
@Bo
a 16 year old parts already had its toll, most of the parts on my truck are original same as the 2002 radiator is leaking . the cold has damaged it a long time ago
Intake manifold gaskets just took a dump on our '99 Silverado with a 4.8, new gaskets will be here tomorrow. If you had that much fun with a 16 year old truck I can't wait to dig into a 20 year old one, haha.
The Ranch Mechanic
Yea. I’m sure !! Just be careful where u rest your ams and lean on that was my problem.. that heater connector on the firewall will definitely break if it’s old .. watch for that one ..
you need a shop vac
And if you have a evap line on that runs along the drivers side intake do not bend it up like Blue driver did .. it will break behind the block .. pain in the ass to get to after you install the intake... watch other videos on and good luck !! Let me know if you need help.. today I have to replace the radiator which is an original ugh.
I just bought a 05 sierra about a month ago and a week later I got a check engine light. I pulled the same codes😢.
I appreciate you for making this video, I really liked that you showed the re-assmbly.
First video I've seen that does that unlike other people who just tell you to do the same steps in reverse lol.
Thanks guys!
What codes did you recieve
Well isn't that mechanic just a bundle of joy. I am usually in the same mood after working on most vehicles ha.
Great video. I would though recommend using the better design felpro gaskets, and looking up the gm service bulletin on replacing the knock sensors, building the rtv dam around them, and deleting the rear foam as it seems to trap moisture. On these ls motors a little research and a few extra bucks can save a lot of time having to go back in for something that was right next door to your previous project
@@Anthony-kd5ku
Hello, this may help you.
In regards to the foam, on top the lifter valley pan there are two foam pads that are there to keep debri out. The front one is fine but the one close to the firewall tends to trap moisture.
www.corvetteforum.com/forums/attachments/c5-tech/47686616d1323993721-intake-manifold-upgrade-tsb-893793.pdf
@@Anthony-kd5ku your welcome, I hope your project goes well
@@Anthony-kd5ku hey, planning on doing this this week. How did it go??
@Anthony Hey man what did you use to clean the surface where the gaskets go? It doesn't show in the video and having a hard time finding a video that shows what to use.
@@Ace-44 acetone and a plastic gasket scraper work pretty good. If you use a razor blade be very careful not to gouge the surface
Just finished this job which took me a total of 15 hours on different days. My 2001 suburban had a cruise control and accelerator cable which was not covered. The injectors were not easy to remove and replace especially the ones in the back and on the drivers side. Make sure the pull all of the slack from the manifold on the knox sensor. I had to go back and loosen the manifold bolts because the knox sensor wire was to short to hook on the manifold, UGH!!!!! Nevertheless, the manifold gaskets were completely worn. There were leaves, leaves, and more leaves with a sprinkling of acorns. Overall, I loved the experience and Jim and Chris are a excellent instructors along with making mistakes. I'm on to the AC belt and tensioner, next brake pads, and my Gray Ghost will be fortified. Thanks BlueDriver!!!!!!
Thanks for putting this out there. Hitting every point and adding in humor is a big win. :)
Good video but I just have to go out of my way to give major props to whatever editor was genius enough to put a video section graphic along the YT play time bar at the bottom. WOW!! How has nobody ever thought of that before?!?!
It's even better in the newer videos - now youtube lets you put 'chapter titles' in the bar itself, we'll be using this on all new videos
(e.g. ruclips.net/video/UO8Oo0drzck/видео.html)
Just did this and my valve covers on my 01 Yukon XL, following along with the video. I did have a couple slight differences like a fuel return line and an exhaust line into the side of the intake. Great video thanks for the help!
Awesome video guys!! I love my BlueDriver scan tool for helping troubleshoot things like this.
Thank You !! For the Video ! Excellent Job
I have a Tahoe and I need to replace the gaskets. I have the same codes
I need a warm day to do this job.!! TY
Thank you guys great video I just fixed my 2001 chevy Silverado gasket thanks to this video 👍
Very good!
I wish you guys would do a video on DTC P0010 (intake camshaft position actuator solenoid) removal and replacement on a 2011-ish Chevy Impala LS 3.5L.
You always see people making videos on the Malibus, etc. with 2.4L (solenoids easy location).
If you can please make a video. Many people need this!
I get P0171 and P0174 but only in extreme cold. The idle is noticeably rough when this happens. After driving for a while it smooths out and doesn't happen I warm temps (20+ degrees). Could this be the culprit?
Same damn symptoms here also. I have a good mind just to go ahead and buy the gasket replace and give it shot.
It is absolutely the culprit of both those codes.especially in the cold the way you described. I had the same symptoms/issue on my 2000 GMC Yukon 5.3. I did the gaskets and boom all fixed!!!
Good luck on yours
I'm sure you've already gotten your answer on this but for anybody reading this comment, this is 99% of the time going to be the cause. I've had a few of these pickups and around 150-200 thousand miles this happens on all of them.
@@SuperNicks22 Yeah I replaced this about a year ago and it fixed it. Thanks though
@@Tanner69046 I'm even later to the party but I hope your replaced them with the $100 gasket that has a metal frame rather than the $50 gasket with plastic frame. Otherwise you'll be doing it again before long. At least you'd be doing it with experience next time around 😂👍
Thank you so much for doing this video, it was sooo helpful! I have a return fuel line just below the fuel supply line , so I had to check other videos to see what it was and it's the same disconnect procedure as the supply fuel line. Great video, keep it up!
Thanks for the video guys! It really guided me through my 02 Tahoe intake gasket today!
Great video.i went ahead & changed my knock sencors while i had the intake off.
This video makes everything seem so easy
It's just about as easy as it looks - we're not mechanics and the truck is in terrible shape - we try to keep things as realistic and honest as possible for these videos
wow exceptionally well done..very clear and concise yet entertaining (I'm easily entertained!)... thanks a zillion for posting this...I'm subscribing... :)
At 13:22 - clean up the mating surface. With what and how? Solvent? Razor blade? Just wondering cause I'm about to tackle this knock sensor and gasket install on my Chevy pickup.
Try to stay away from solvent base stuff. I use stuff called MEAN ORANGE version of SIMPLE GREEN just works better in mind and a rag with a plastic bristled scrub brush it's because of the plastics. They sell these smaller gray color brushes at auto stores look just like a wire brush does only they are much smaller that is your ticket because they usually come 3 in a pack one brass bristle one steel and one plastic. I have not even found em on the web. I usually get em at Advanced or A&A sometimes they have em sometimes not. You know they never have em when ya want and need em so I usually buy em out when I see they do have them simply because of jobs of like this. And good luck getting those fuel lines loose... Usually this job ends up with replacing the fuel lines as well.
I know but they probably would have obscured the camera with the rags like in the rest of the video lol
First of all. Great video. I had no problems following along and got my intake off and back on.
Couple things to note.
First I don't think you mentioned to plug the Fuel pump relay back in...don't forget that..
And for my truck( 03 suburban ) everything was the same except I have 2 fuel lines to remove and my clips on my injectors were a little different. Did not have the safety flip switch things. It was just squeez and pull off
Thanks again for the video. Took me about 3 hours. But I cleaned EVERYTHING real good while I had it all apart.
Common sense to plug that relay in
@@EddySanchez-rl5iq common sense does not exist anymore. It's just sense. You either have it or you don't.
Your channel is always helpful !!
Did mine in 2hrs yesterday but, I did a lot of scrubbing/cleaning while I was in there. And soaked and scrubbed the throttle body as well. Also, If yours is older with EGR, don’t break the pipe. You’ll have a large vacuum leak and it won’t idle.
Love the video. saved me time and money taking my '03 to a shop. I do notice you did this job with the fan shroud removed. Might want to reference/make another video on how to do that. It isn't required to remove it to do this job but you don't mention it either way. Also, some of these 5.3L's are equipped with throttle cables. A reference to that would be helpful as well.
Had to Subscribe, a great channel. Thanks for the help guys on my Chevy trucks.
fantastic video. I have the confidence to do this now!
excellent video, thanks, it helped A LOT! My 2004 Tahoe, vin z Flex fuel had different style electrical connectors at fuel injectors plus 2 fuel lines instead of the one from the video but otherwise spot-on. The whole project took me 4 hours.
Truck idles so smooth at 650 rpm now I keep thinking it has stalled:)
Thank you so much for doing these videos. I appreciate it so much
Great video guys, really helped me out a lot thanks!
My fuel injectors looked nothing like these. Took two hours just to get them disconnected. Old and brittle. I wouldn't give that job to my mother inlaw.
did you have the one with the long grey clips?
Thank you guys for this video and tutorial, about replacing knock sensors! Also putting the step by step instructions in the description! I just did mine today, everything went great! Thanks again! 👍🏽
This video is a lifesaver!!!
It's not so bad when you break it down hey?
@@LemurMonitors No it makes it look easy, though one suggestion, its better to unplug the evap hose from both ends instead of running it under the fuel line. I snapped mine off hahaha oops
Thanks for the video you saved me some money and a headache I'm sure
You forgot to reinstall the fuel pump fuse. That could have someone scratching their head when it doesn't start. Other than that, great video👍🏾
Thank you so much! This video saved my moms 02 5.3 chevy silverado! Ben wanting to get to blue driver for a while customer service like this has got me sold will be ordering soon. It cleared / fixed 6 codes P0442 P0332 P0300 PO174 P0171 P0101. Could not have done it with out the video
Would this be the solution to fixing lifters ticking really bad on cold start up?
No. This does nothing for the lifters. It may make it easier for you to figure out how to get some of the stuff out of the way though.
Great video!! Gave me confidence and went smoothly👍🏻
Nowhere near as bad as it sounds is it!
I just bought a truck like this last week... I have to do this job because it's leaking coolant from under the intake. Doesn't look too difficult.
you guys do great videos
I have a 2002 gmc yukon xl 1500 slt 5.3L LS engine with 237,000 miles ("Z") on the eight digit in Vin number. I will be replacing the knock sensors soon and was wondering if I should go ahead and plan to replace my fuel injectors at the same time???? I'm also planning to replace my crankshaft sensor and oil pressure sensor too. I did read the GM bulletin regarding the removal and disposal of the foam insert off the rear side of intake manifold and the RTV (red) around knock sensor seals leaving a small gap on back side. Again, thank you for all the videos and quick response.
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good you good teacher 👌👌👌👌👌
By far the best video on this. Thanks guys. About to do this next week. Do you also have a video on replacing the knock sensors as well?
Good video will be doing mine on my 2000 Silverado
If u have ever changed out your transmission or ever pulled a motor this is easier
Just put a motor in a pilot never want to do that again
Great video guys thank you
Awesome videos thanks
Thank you!
Why is the Manifold rebolting a 2 stage process? what would happen if i just bolted down in order without a torque ratchet and just used a regular rachet?
Might add, while you're in that deep, to change the knock sensors those things go out all the time.
Great video Thank you.
Great video EXCEPT......I have a 20001 4.8 GMC Sierra with a big ole 1" dia steel tube originating at the exhaust manifold connecting to the passenger side intake manifold with a 2 bolt flange just aft of the throttle body. Plus there are 2 additional electrical connectors on the driver side of the throttle body. And no throttle cable. Am I looking at a model built for California emissions? And can you point me to a RUclips video that accounts for these and any other differences? Also, doesn't the air have to bled out of the fuel lines? And did you remind us to reconnect the fuel pump relay?
Change the oil pressure sensor and knocking sensor as well
Your good, I like your videos, just a suggestion 👍✌️
Nice... should mention replacing the knock sensors and harness while your In there too
Yes, you dont want to be doing all this crap again lol
I followed the instructions on this video carefully, but now I'm getting a P0430 code! Any suggestions? Could I have done something wrong with the manifold that could be causing this?
P0430 means that the Oxygen sensor downstream of the catalytic converter is registering an improper reading.. You have to change Bank 1 or Bank 2 sensors or The computer may have to adjust to the new repairs that you did. Let me know I have to replace the Intake Gaskets very soon
It would give me the same code if I was to do this right? I deleted the catalytic converter on it, it’s straight piped would I need a cold air intake?
So much for that evap line.
Yeah i thought that was a stiff plastic line lol
@@roltyd22 It is 🤣
I'll like to see when you read the codes and how you come to the conclusion is that, if other Codes are showed
Not a bad idea! (we might not be the best advertisers)
Just so folks know this job usually ends up with replacing the fuel lines. In the rust belt states most of the time it is impossible to get those fuel lines off the rail without em cutting em off and then separating the collars on the work bench. The harder part is separating all those plastic parts and connectors without breaking anything. This video illustrates the stuff fairly nicely. Alot of the parts have hidden clips and tabs which are a real pain in the ass period. In the rust belt states I don't care what tool ya use and what solvent ya use to get em to give. On the older 99 to 2004 Silverados you will not get your hand back behind on the line and collar itself to separate em. I noticed 2005 on up there is a little more room between the firewall and the motor itself. Not so from 99 to 04. I could contemplate buying fuel lines at whatever extorted price they may want.
Thank you for representing the snow/rust belt states. Someone who knows what rust is. Amen my Brother! Wrench on!
Crazy. I live in Denver. Had a friend who moved here from upstate NY. Her Tahoe needed new brake lines because they were rusted through. Mechanics here are not familiar with fabricating brake lines because they never rust out here. That turned into a very expensive repair.
Fixing to tackle this job. Do I need a EGR pipe gasket.
Oh my God they didn't clean the engine
I couldn't believe it too. It took me two hours to clean mine and the manifold. Go figure????
Beautiful job
So how long should this repair last? How many miles? I had this issue fixed 2 years ago at the gmc dealer and recently check engine light came on, took it to same dealer again and it’s the same problem!! And of course warranty on the work has expired. Was told it’s just normal wear, this doesn’t sound right -
Funny i helped a mechanic do that same thing on my 97 S10 with the 4.3 engine, it took 12 man hours, this one looks a lot easier, is it because of more room under the hood?
Thank you so much for the detailed video.
I am sure when I get to the knock sensor replacement ( as soon as I get the parts) your video with be indispensable. If you doh't mind giving me more advice, does this affect replacing the Valve cover gaskets and grommets? Since I will have it all apart, should I do them at the same time? They have been leaking for a while now, and it seems that it would be easier to do it when everything is apart for the knock sensors replacementI. I have 20,200K-miles on it. It seems a good time to replace the plugs (only plug change was at 105K miles). and wires. Thank you, Gentlemen.
do you have a part number for the intake manifold in this video? how about the part number for the gasket set, i do not see one
Thank you for making this video, you made an intimidating task very easy to do.
Great tutorial!
Great video. Will be using this to change knock sensors. Would it also be good to replace the oil pressure switch as well? Thanks.
Great job masters.
Can I use this same routine for changing my lifters?
A little late but yes just after everything seen here take off valve covers and you can get to em
Coming from a diesel back to a gas truck I LOLed when y’all said $100 wasn’t cheap for the gaskets.
Never going back to diesels.
For anybody watching this don’t put a OEM gasket back on buy a fel-pro or something else good the gasket that works better actully installs on the heads vs on the intake
I second this tip
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks for the great video !
"it comes owt"
I got 2 of them lined
14:58, holy heck, can't manhandle a high miles evap line like that. It'll crinkle and crack, no problem.
Thanks guys... Can I safely assume that this procedure would be the same on my 4.8 liter Silverado?
Gracias por compartir su trabajo actual uso una suburban 2004 y tiene problemas para arancar y ya en marcha tiene alnuna in estabilidad en el motor antes usaba una suburban 1994 ahora me toca aprender del motor 5.3 lts 2004 saludos desde la Ciudad de México.
Nicely done
It was NOT as easy as the video! Everything was frozen stuck, the hoses had dry rot, there was some extra emissions stuff that you didn't have. That said, the steps are not difficult and I love my BlueDriver tool. Thanks!
It shouldn't be too much worse - this truck was driven for 11 years on an island in Canada then left in a field for two after that. There could be a few extra emissions lines since Canada and the US had different requirements
I have put on a smoke test after install and showed leaks on the gasket. I have now replaced another new gasket and a new bolt kit it and still leaks. Soultion? 400,000 on the motor.
I'm also interested in knowing as mine is 400k also. I'm thinking a new Intake manifold will do the trick! But if the motor has 400k already, may as well swap the motor if it keeps giving you hassles.
Would this apply to 6.0 v8 on a 2002 Escalade?
We haven't tried the Escalade, the 6.0 in the Silverado is the same
4hrs into it. Got the manifold out, I found an absolute mess. Caked on grease, that foam barrier was dust, and one of the gaskets is stuck on.
I shoved some rags in the ports on the block and sprayed some engine degreaser and left it overnight to break it up. I'll wipe the mating surfaces and use a plastic scraper to get all of that burnt oil off.
That's going to be super satisfying once it's done
Hey guys theres a hose that i see in the video its super long and its in the back of the manifold. What is that hose for and what does it tie back into. Im at the re install portion of this and im stuck dont know where that long hose goes into.
What timestamp is it at?
Does anyone know if this will fix a P0300 code on a 2000 Silverado? It has a rough idle in the cold but is fine once it warms up. From what I’ve read it seems like this is the culprit
I’ve heard the same thing I’m doing mine right now as well. Did you do yours?
If I'm correct that's a multiple misfire code so that could be a number of diff things maybe just a sensor maybe just a O2 sensor or it could be this just try to narrow it down by trial and error
Why is it that mine has 2 fuel lines to disconnect and also I seen on the throttle body that it didn’t have the tps sensor and idle sensor on it
My year has the 2 fuel lines as well and my TB has both sensors it's a 2001 5.3 I figure it's because my TB is a drive by wire, so my throttle is connected by a wire to the TB. These new TBs are electric so it doesn't have the need for it it's just built in with the computer type deal I assume not saying I'm correct just what I would think
Chris,
What it the valve that looks like a PVC valve on the back of the 5.3 Vortec intake manifold
Only sensor I can think of on the back of the intake is the MAP sensor?
Awesome video!
So on the torque wrench how would you set it up to inch pounds
Don't have a blue driver but I did do everything in this video step-by-step. After about 30 miles the check engine light cleared but the codes are still on my reader. Do you recommend I clear the codes and drive another 50 to a hundred miles?
No harm in clearing them unless you have an emissions test coming up in the next week or so. If any come up as "permanent" then they can't be cleared and you'll have to do a bit of driving before they'll reset themselves.
@@LemurMonitors I do have an emissions test coming up.
Maybe I'll just clear them and drive a little bit more
I just relieved the fuel pressure by using a small screwdriver on the schrader valve. Done.
Good option too - but watch your eyes! (ask me how I know)
@@LemurMonitors I watched your video prior to relieving the fuel pressure with the screwdriver. By the way, thanks for the great videos.