It’s cool to see someone else do this. I have done several trucks this way, and absolutely love it! Surprisingly, I get a lot of compliments, even though it doesn’t look that good close up. Keep up the good work on the old truck!
I really do like the I don't give an F paint and body work, but you should know. (A) paint will flake off anywhere you did not sand. (B) Adding an automotive grade hardener to the paint will give it UV protection so the paint continues to shine for years instead of months. (C)Automotive grade Synthetic Enamel Hardener can be had at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $27, Wet Look Enamel Hardener cost about 40$. Either will dramatically increase how long your paint last. Getting 10 years instead of 1 year out of the paint is a good deal for 40 bucks.
I prepped the whole truck, that paint will stick just fine. And it's single stage tractor paint. It won't fade, it doesn't need hardener or clear coat or wax...... kinda the whole point of the video. Guess you missed that
@@realtundratrash That's cool, it's just the door jams and door panel did not appear to be sanded....Any road, most if not all Tractor Paint brands don't have anymore UV protection then standard Rustoleum. Rustoleum Top Side marine paint has some UV protection, but even it is not great compared to an automotive grade hardener. The main difference between automotive grade enamel and oil based enamels found in hardware stores is quality of ingredients, not the chemistry of the paint itself. Things like the pigments are coarser in cheap paints. Which is why people get almost as much orange peel spraying them as you did rolling the truck. Automotive paints get most their gloss, resilience and UV protection from the hardener not the paint.... In fact you can add Mar-Hyde Wet Look Hardener to your tractor paint and it would convert it into being a single stage urethane enamel as that Urethane Enamels are really just oil based enamels with a really high quality hardener....Oh and the hardeners sold to be used with Tractor paint are junk the Synthetic Enamel Hardener mentioned above is about the same price and vastly better quality.
If this is popping up on my feed this early we must have allot in common. Love it. Reminds me of TooCheapToSmoke.
It’s cool to see someone else do this. I have done several trucks this way, and absolutely love it! Surprisingly, I get a lot of compliments, even though it doesn’t look that good close up. Keep up the good work on the old truck!
Outstanding and totally appropriate color.
This reminds me of the Hacknpackshop video on wheelwells. Great vid!
That green is beautiful on your truck!
Thanks, I'm very happy with it!
I like it!
But it is perfect. It is perfect-ly fine
Make it one color and keep the rust at bay = perfect.
The factory put bondo on them old fords too.
Are you using a tig?
Nope I'm not that fancy, it's just a Hobart 120v mig
I really do like the I don't give an F paint and body work, but you should know. (A) paint will flake off anywhere you did not sand. (B) Adding an automotive grade hardener to the paint will give it UV protection so the paint continues to shine for years instead of months. (C)Automotive grade Synthetic Enamel Hardener can be had at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $27, Wet Look Enamel Hardener cost about 40$. Either will dramatically increase how long your paint last. Getting 10 years instead of 1 year out of the paint is a good deal for 40 bucks.
I prepped the whole truck, that paint will stick just fine. And it's single stage tractor paint. It won't fade, it doesn't need hardener or clear coat or wax...... kinda the whole point of the video. Guess you missed that
@@realtundratrash That's cool, it's just the door jams and door panel did not appear to be sanded....Any road, most if not all Tractor Paint brands don't have anymore UV protection then standard Rustoleum. Rustoleum Top Side marine paint has some UV protection, but even it is not great compared to an automotive grade hardener.
The main difference between automotive grade enamel and oil based enamels found in hardware stores is quality of ingredients, not the chemistry of the paint itself. Things like the pigments are coarser in cheap paints. Which is why people get almost as much orange peel spraying them as you did rolling the truck. Automotive paints get most their gloss, resilience and UV protection from the hardener not the paint....
In fact you can add Mar-Hyde Wet Look Hardener to your tractor paint and it would convert it into being a single stage urethane enamel as that Urethane Enamels are really just oil based enamels with a really high quality hardener....Oh and the hardeners sold to be used with Tractor paint are junk the Synthetic Enamel Hardener mentioned above is about the same price and vastly better quality.
I did it with my bear🐻 hands.