It’s tip no 1 and only. Cause you need to do your best to not to ruin breathtaking view, but if there’s no something real interesting to make a photo of, you can’t do anything, no matter what you do.
@@vrcshortys152 when you can shoot low iso of course shoot low iso. But at the end of the day 99% of the time I'd rather have a higher iso picture that's not blurred because of motion blur or camera shake. Of course there is no point in going from say 1/125 to 1/4000 by boosting iso for a still subject
Don’t use small apertures. If your pixels are small enough (like 24mp+ on apsc or 62mp+ on full frame) f11 or smaller will show diffraction even if you have the optically perfect lens. Your lens quality matters too. Use best aperture for your lens & camera (typically f8) and focus bracketing if needed
Exactly! F/8 is about as low as you should go. These days, using a good lens, anything lower than f/5.6 will give you no performance gains. Also, if it's landscape like he showed your focus is near infinity, depth of field discussion is a waste of time. Better to have stability!
Don't listen to this. Don't use higher then f8. It introduces diffraction for minimal optical gain. You don't need absolutely everything in focus f5.6 or 8 is more then enough without hurting the quality of your lens
If you have Apo lens stopping down wont effect your image quality 💁🏼♂️ also how about large format where you usually shoot between f5.6 and f64 hmm? 😅😅
@@balintmerk1509 apo lens does not do anything with diffraction but chromatic abbreviation. Diffraction comes from aperture being small and photons projected an airy disk. it’s a physics limitation that cannot be ‘fixed’ unless get rid of the aperture itself Yes larger pixels will reduce the effect of diffraction. But for most full frame (and smaller) sensor users please check your pixel size and diffraction limit. Normally f16 will yield a softer image due to diffraction
@@balintmerk1509 I’m a little late to the game, but to add some nuance to the discussion, whether or not diffraction becomes visible in the final image pretty much comes down to the aperture setting and how much enlargement there is between the image projected onto the sensor and the final print or display (and viewing distance to the display). A larger format sensor needs less enlargement to get to a given print or display size so can tolerate a higher f-number. If you search for “print resolution calculator” you’ll find a calculator on the Points in Focus blog that attempts to calculate a *suggested* maximum aperture setting for a given combination of print size, viewing distance, and sensor format. That said the tool does partially agree with what you are getting at, in that you can get away with much smaller apertures and lower resolutions for a vast majority of real world situations (i.e not pixel peeping).
It’s a higher aperture than I’m likely to shoot at, but to be fair, if you print out an uncropped image taken at f/14 on full frame system, a person with 20/20 vision won’t really be able to see diffraction softening unless they are standing quite a bit closer than the diagonal size of the print. Whether or not full-frame f/14 is acceptable really depends on your artistic goal: to take in the whole scene at once it’s fine, but to be able to print big and let the viewer step closer in to pick out the little details it provably won’t work as well.
Some lenses loses sharpness beyond f11 dye to diffraction. Do some research about lenses you own and figure out what the best aperture setting is for the maximum clearity.
•in no exact order. Find a beautiful area Lowest iso for Shutter speed Buy great Prime Lenses Tripod, Timers. Learn composition Learn Editing techniques Powerful Computer / lots RAM
Oh, sweetie… Am I going to have to be the one to explain to you that what you were referencing is portrait ORIENTATION?! Just because you turn the camera vertical, does not make it a portrait. It means you shot the LANDSCAPE in portrait orientation.
F stop I find really depends but yeah 8-14 work very well for landscape however I’ve seen incredible stuff done with both sides. That’s why you always remember that in photography the rules will get you a good photo but breaking them will get you a great photo
First one isn’t a good tip, on higher res sensor (I.e a7iv,a7rv,a1,z7ii,r5,…) you will start to get diffraction at F8 which reduces the overall quality of textures. Just go up to max F9…
I picked up a Canon T7 Dslr not T7i because well budget and I want to learn the basics without any extra help at first. With full kit and I picked up a ef-50mm 1.8 aka nifty fifty lens im all in 600$ USD…. That comes with efs-18-55 and 75-300mm zoom… plenty for me for awhile to get started. I shot raw and it honestly takes awesome photos for the price. Hope that helps a bit. Some people will have other opinions but this is all I know for now lol
You're kinda misleading people about the LOW ISO... what if it's windy and people then get blurred photos because of movement? How about focus stacking, how about using a tripod? You don't want to use LOW ISO if you're shooting handheld. You won't get as sharp as photos. ISO 800 is good for hand held 😉
I disagree with the ISO. Using the lowest possible ISO can hurt ur image performance. It’s important to use the native ISO of your camera to get the maximum amount of dynamic range. On dual ISO cameras I prefer the lower native ISO.
He suggests f-14 and f-8, turn down to either, it’s what looks good, f stop just let’s more or less light in f-16 is usually the he highest you would go being the least amount of light f-1/2 would be the most only used in very dark situations
@@flotin2803 lol I’ve been shooting for 40 years. I was being a big of a ass on how someone can just throw out numbers without any type of explanation as of why.
Been working as a prof photographer for 2 years and nvr needed photoshop. I find unless you're doing specialized photos or have to rly manipulate then photoshop isn't worth it
I think photoshop is only really necessary for focus stacking, if you really want that, some astrophotography, or special pictures. I don't know if you meant that you don't use something like lightroom either but I feel like that's kind of necessary
leading lines, rule of thirds, misty conditions can separate a subject from a busy/distracting background, long exposures to smooth out ripples on water/ get the effect of movement in waterfalls. Photography is much more than just settings
F-stop just let’s more or less light in f-16 is usually the he highest you would go being the least amount of light f-1/2 would be the most only used in very dark situations
Depends on lens, typically 3 stops below the maximum aperture will be the sharpest. For landscapes you want a high field of view which means high f stop.
Best way, people are obsessed with what settings to use when auto exposure is usually good enough and is there for a reason.. You shoot more photos that way and improve quicker than everyone else arguing over ISO nonsense
I just set the settings to what seems good before shooting then use that for the whole time. Then just use the wheel to change shutter speed if I need to
Tip #1: Go to where there are incredible landscapes.
Tip #2 go there with a DSLR camera 📸
@@floatinsun that's a mirrorless, my dude
with practice, you can find good photos anywhere.
Tip #4 use wide angle lens
It’s tip no 1 and only. Cause you need to do your best to not to ruin breathtaking view, but if there’s no something real interesting to make a photo of, you can’t do anything, no matter what you do.
The best way to take better landscape photos is to go to better landscapes.
With a real camera, aka wood 13x18
Tip 4, use a tripod because of the ISO and aperture settings.
Don't be afraid of high iso. Especially now that Lightroom has the ai denoise. It's a game changer
imo any detail loss from it isnt worth it when you can just shoot lower iso
@@vrcshortys152 when you can shoot low iso of course shoot low iso. But at the end of the day 99% of the time I'd rather have a higher iso picture that's not blurred because of motion blur or camera shake.
Of course there is no point in going from say 1/125 to 1/4000 by boosting iso for a still subject
Landscape and wildlife photography have always been my favorites, hoping one day I'll be able to afford my own gear.
Me bought a expensive DLSR camera but can’t afford a ticket to country that have amazing landscape and end with take photo in my backyard 😂
India is awesome
don't worry about noise when use high iso, just change image to black and white, noise can your picture more artistic
Don’t use small apertures. If your pixels are small enough (like 24mp+ on apsc or 62mp+ on full frame) f11 or smaller will show diffraction even if you have the optically perfect lens. Your lens quality matters too. Use best aperture for your lens & camera (typically f8) and focus bracketing if needed
Bump. RUclips fake news 😒
Exactly! F/8 is about as low as you should go. These days, using a good lens, anything lower than f/5.6 will give you no performance gains. Also, if it's landscape like he showed your focus is near infinity, depth of field discussion is a waste of time. Better to have stability!
Shoot full stop apertures. Your lens is designed for it. F8, F11… Etc. Not F14.
I'm so proud of myself for understanding all this lol.
Thank you for sharing!
You're pure magic.
Thanks!
No problem!
Don't listen to this. Don't use higher then f8. It introduces diffraction for minimal optical gain. You don't need absolutely everything in focus f5.6 or 8 is more then enough without hurting the quality of your lens
F14 is going to give you diffraction. Hyperfocal distance is your friend.
If you have Apo lens stopping down wont effect your image quality 💁🏼♂️ also how about large format where you usually shoot between f5.6 and f64 hmm? 😅😅
@@balintmerk1509 right... You can't beat physics. That's not large format either.
@@balintmerk1509 apo lens does not do anything with diffraction but chromatic abbreviation. Diffraction comes from aperture being small and photons projected an airy disk. it’s a physics limitation that cannot be ‘fixed’ unless get rid of the aperture itself
Yes larger pixels will reduce the effect of diffraction. But for most full frame (and smaller) sensor users please check your pixel size and diffraction limit. Normally f16 will yield a softer image due to diffraction
@@balintmerk1509 I’m a little late to the game, but to add some nuance to the discussion, whether or not diffraction becomes visible in the final image pretty much comes down to the aperture setting and how much enlargement there is between the image projected onto the sensor and the final print or display (and viewing distance to the display). A larger format sensor needs less enlargement to get to a given print or display size so can tolerate a higher f-number.
If you search for “print resolution calculator” you’ll find a calculator on the Points in Focus blog that attempts to calculate a *suggested* maximum aperture setting for a given combination of print size, viewing distance, and sensor format.
That said the tool does partially agree with what you are getting at, in that you can get away with much smaller apertures and lower resolutions for a vast majority of real world situations (i.e not pixel peeping).
It’s a higher aperture than I’m likely to shoot at, but to be fair, if you print out an uncropped image taken at f/14 on full frame system, a person with 20/20 vision won’t really be able to see diffraction softening unless they are standing quite a bit closer than the diagonal size of the print. Whether or not full-frame f/14 is acceptable really depends on your artistic goal: to take in the whole scene at once it’s fine, but to be able to print big and let the viewer step closer in to pick out the little details it provably won’t work as well.
Some lenses loses sharpness beyond f11 dye to diffraction. Do some research about lenses you own and figure out what the best aperture setting is for the maximum clearity.
i.e. focus bracketing
Focus stacking is also your friend. Most modern cameras has this feature.
Well done!
Ok thanks because I really want to know about that
you need a tripod and filters too.
You definitely can!
•in no exact order.
Find a beautiful area
Lowest iso for Shutter speed
Buy great Prime Lenses
Tripod, Timers.
Learn composition
Learn Editing techniques
Powerful Computer / lots RAM
You deserved my ❤
Iso 200 in the daylight?
Hi. Just wondering whats the best memore cards for the a7iii. Ill be maily doing landscape shots and eventually some astro. Thank you
Great tips!
"Want better landscape photos?"
*takes a portrait shot*
😅
Oh, sweetie… Am I going to have to be the one to explain to you that what you were referencing is portrait ORIENTATION?! Just because you turn the camera vertical, does not make it a portrait. It means you shot the LANDSCAPE in portrait orientation.
@@harveymanfrantinsingin7373 Hi! That was the joke. Hope this helps!
@@harveymanfrantinsingin7373 Hi! That was the joke :)
Hope this helps!
@@johnivan5443 🤔are you suuuuure?! Lol
F stop I find really depends but yeah 8-14 work very well for landscape however I’ve seen incredible stuff done with both sides. That’s why you always remember that in photography the rules will get you a good photo but breaking them will get you a great photo
First one isn’t a good tip, on higher res sensor (I.e a7iv,a7rv,a1,z7ii,r5,…) you will start to get diffraction at F8 which reduces the overall quality of textures. Just go up to max F9…
F11 is the best setting for landscape
Link me a good starter camera please!
Bro he liked this and didn't even recommend one 💀 unless bro. Whats your budget
I picked up a Canon T7 Dslr not T7i because well budget and I want to learn the basics without any extra help at first. With full kit and I picked up a ef-50mm 1.8 aka nifty fifty lens im all in 600$ USD…. That comes with efs-18-55 and 75-300mm zoom… plenty for me for awhile to get started. I shot raw and it honestly takes awesome photos for the price. Hope that helps a bit. Some people will have other opinions but this is all I know for now lol
Why do all mirrorless users shoot vertically? They do not know how to handle a camera horizontally?
Gotta shoot for the medium you want to post it on!
You're kinda misleading people about the LOW ISO... what if it's windy and people then get blurred photos because of movement? How about focus stacking, how about using a tripod? You don't want to use LOW ISO if you're shooting handheld. You won't get as sharp as photos. ISO 800 is good for hand held 😉
I disagree with the ISO. Using the lowest possible ISO can hurt ur image performance. It’s important to use the native ISO of your camera to get the maximum amount of dynamic range. On dual ISO cameras I prefer the lower native ISO.
Not only that but the apature is too small as well. Dude doesn't know what he's talking about
Step 1: Go to Epic landscape locations.
Only what you can say for best landscape photo... Be on right place on right time. That's it. No meter what gear, what lens and what f stop
"composition"
Will I have diffraction at f14. My lens only goes up to f16
He suggests f-14 and f-8, turn down to either, it’s what looks good, f stop just let’s more or less light in f-16 is usually the he highest you would go being the least amount of light f-1/2 would be the most only used in very dark situations
@@flotin2803 lol I’ve been shooting for 40 years. I was being a big of a ass on how someone can just throw out numbers without any type of explanation as of why.
New to this here.. do you recommend buying a polarizer?
Literally will be the best piece of kit you get!
Thank you
I never hlget sharp photos moving on a smooth road in a vehicle. Even 1/4000 doesn't do the job thought the windshield.MOTION BLURRRRR
Nah just use focus stacking man.
Mind sharing what lense you used ?
You forgot the cpl lens
What camera ?
Been working as a prof photographer for 2 years and nvr needed photoshop. I find unless you're doing specialized photos or have to rly manipulate then photoshop isn't worth it
I think photoshop is only really necessary for focus stacking, if you really want that, some astrophotography, or special pictures. I don't know if you meant that you don't use something like lightroom either but I feel like that's kind of necessary
What lens for this?
24-70 f2.8!
f8 to f14
Low ISO
Element in the foreground
leading lines, rule of thirds, misty conditions can separate a subject from a busy/distracting background, long exposures to smooth out ripples on water/ get the effect of movement in waterfalls. Photography is much more than just settings
Great
If you have an M43 camera, will it still be best at F8-F14?
F-stop just let’s more or less light in f-16 is usually the he highest you would go being the least amount of light f-1/2 would be the most only used in very dark situations
He doesn’t explain this well
@@flotin2803 not true, it affects a lot more then that.
Depends on lens, typically 3 stops below the maximum aperture will be the sharpest. For landscapes you want a high field of view which means high f stop.
and throw the shutter speed out the window right?
I can't put all the tips in one short haha I can make a full RUclips video if I include everyone's feedback! :)
@@brockwunder its all good my man love your content keep it up, i was jst bustin ya balls 🙌
Stick it on auto ffs
If you want better landscape photo...get better landscape and take a photo!
You forgot the Sony A1👁
Step 0: Buy a camera that can do the other steps.
Прикольно, спасибо 🙏
Why does this look like Blanca lake Washington?😅
I thought the third tip would be to keep the shutter speed as fast ass possible..
Nope. In landscape slow works perfectly fine as an effect if it suits the comp and subject. Also leads to cleaner low noise
Sometimes, you want a really slow shutter, eg waterfalls, and you will need ND filters to get the effect you want
Tip # 0 have a camera and a wide angle lens
Definitely the camera part, but you can still take really nice pics with a telephoto or prime lens
Everyone say f4 is enough
F14 is too much! It should be atleast f10 . .
Use tripod also if you want to make a landscape perfectly shot
So basically you need a tripod
I shoot ilford delta 3200 in bright sunshine😂
Step 3, put the camera on a tripod.
That's not necessary for every shot but it definitely helps
I wish I understood what he just said lol
Look up videos on the exposer triangle
@@tdawg719 Ty!!! I’m much more clear now 🙏🏽
Studying composition is not an option...
It could be!
Photography is light and composition. People get bogged down with the settings and don’t actually take anything interesting.
Best info
tip # 0 throw ur digital camera away and take shots on film
And get a tripod first.
ISO does not cause noise darkness does
Tip 1 : don't use a phone...
no my friend step 1 is get some proper lens !
sir can you gave me your camra for free please
First get a bigger camera.
I just use the pre set landscape setting on my camera
Best way, people are obsessed with what settings to use when auto exposure is usually good enough and is there for a reason.. You shoot more photos that way and improve quicker than everyone else arguing over ISO nonsense
@@Answersonapostcard my thinking exactly
I just set the settings to what seems good before shooting then use that for the whole time. Then just use the wheel to change shutter speed if I need to
@@joeyp1212 makes sense
Thanks!