I'm in the military, and nothing you said needs an apology or disclaimer. Anyway, nice video. I just looked at my bag next to me to see how the stitching is done for the PALS. It looks like a single straight stitch down, then a zig zag stitch about 0.75 centimeters wide back up.
Great Video! As a former Military brat I had seen this set up before. Never considered adding it to my own bags. You have the hamster wheel in my brain spinning off it's hinges lol! As an RN, grandmother of a busy 2 year old, fur baby mom, and such a girl when it comes to a great handbag, this has so much practicality and can easily be sissied up if the need arises. Thanks so much for sharing this technique, I can't wait get started making some additions to both exterior and interior of my designs 😎
Typically a 28 stitch bar tack is used to tack 17337 down but several custom gear builders use 3 passes of straight stitch (which is what they use in laser cut 'MOLLE ' panels and it holds just fine.
I have a US MOLLE backpack from army/navy surplus store and it has zig-zag on the straps. 2mm wide and 18mm long strip with about 24 stitches in that length. If you do try to find a MIL spec for sewing, there should also be something about thread tension spec in there too like a bolted connection will have a torque spec. What tensile strength does the thread have? If 20lbs times 24 stitches that's 480 or a factor of safety of 2X or more for a typical 95% Male. Of course a heavy pouch will have two MOLLE straps for even more of a safety factor.
Hello I was working in the passs for a company name SPEC UP they specialize in back pack for military we use a material name cordura 1000 and the company is now close and i am loooking for work in sewing if someone out threar are interested in this type of work i have experience spend 20 years working for spec up ...thank you for sharing your work....i got a sewing shop with 12 sewing machines
Thanks for the education and inspiration. I want to build a PALS now, super versatile, very functional and I think it looks cool too. Nice project Jason! 🙂
That's the way to go for bicycle gear. I made all my bike bags(panniers, Jones bar bag, stem feed bags) with molle(pals) straps. Made it all with my 1946 Kenmore Rotary sewing machine.
In my research I found it to be 7 stitches per inch single row then a zig zag stitch to mil-spec standards. I sew back and forth like you did, easier for me with no issues at all.
For those interested, the "official" requirements for PALS webbing barracks is that they will be 3/4 inch long and hold a minimum of 250 pounds. No specified pitch or barrack width....
Hi guy it s Norm the guy with ALS I just wanted to say I have learned a lot off you over the last year want you to no your videos are great your appreciated
thejasonofalltrades hi my next challenge is I want to make working dogs vests for disabled folks or rescue vests re I have a service dog so I got a good idea how to start I forget the name you call the people vests that you can add or take pockets off well that is what I what to do with dog ones and thanks to your great teaching I am coming along Thank you for the work you do so you no your appreciated Norm
Super helpful video. I have given up looking for the perfect carry all camera bag and found the MOLLE bags. Just going to make my own. Looking up those MOLLE sticks now!
Very informative and transparent throughout the whole process. Thanks for including some potential hurdles others may encounter. Keep up the good work! 9/10
Thanks Brian, That's pretty cool that you're using a drafting table as well. I'm planning to make a new top for mine with a cutout to mount my machines in, you might want to check that project out whenever I get it done! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Knowing is half the battle! No idea what the other half is but that PALs vs MOLLE debate is over. :) Nice work Jason! Can't wait to see the completed project.
MISC: I see your magnetic cup. I use neo.magnets under a pieces of Gaff tape (NOT duct tape). Esp useful on my non-magnetic machines. for pins and snips. Also I've moved to a soldering iron. I burned/ruined too much stuff w/Flame. :/ -You are spot on in the details w/ Molle-Pals, from everything I've read/watched. -The bag is looking great! -I made some Molle-sticks w/Kydex and shock cord. They work, not perfect, but functional. Cheers Jason!
Hey David! I like the idea of magnets under gaffer's tape (I'm a big fan of gaffer's tape). Yeah, I've made the mistake of getting the flame too close, but now I use a lighter at work all the time, so I'm comfortable with it - until I ruin something again lol. Dude, you made your own MOLLE sticks?!? Intrigued. Thanks for being part of the channel!
Ive never made molle sticks. But from what I can see of them, I dare say plastic conduit could be used. There are several videos aroynd on how to make axe/tom9hawk covers around on here. If you watch that you'll see it is very doable and bend it over upon itsels to make a clip of sorts
It is correct to connect dogs to service people who parachute into combat situations. I dont know there exact harness set up but it has been going on for a while
As one who served In the military As a combat Shoulder And sewed Combat equipment Like flak jackets and more I would often used The MOLLE System. As of sewing on The webbing I leave About An inch between straps Like you Did . In the video You talked about the stitching you used And you Weren't sure if it holds up in military specs,Still what I would do Because I had a straight Stitch At the time and didn't have any zig zag options I just Would go Front words and back 2 to 3 times And wouldn't even lift my foot and move on to the next i would just keep on selling in a straight line to the next strep . As of Strange and military specs For me it held up pretty good and did not have Any problems. I love watching your projects I'm very inspired by them And get good ideas to.I hope I helped in the way If you have anymore questions Feel free to ask . It's always good To get a second opinion .
Hey brother ! It's been awhile since I watched. You were on a move last video I watched ! Missed your content keep making videos you have taught me alot ! Thanks a million !
The specifications you're talking about for bartacks come from the MIL-V-43544 publication (you can find the pdf on everyspec). I know this is an older video but didn't see it mentioned in the comments.
Good to see Alexander Dyer is keeping an eye on what his fellow male RUclips sewer's are up too, I have to thank both of you two for a ton of inspiration. Jason great walk through and tutorial of M.O.L.L.E/P.A.L.S , thanks for sharing.
I am just getting into sewing and learning a lot all at once. For some reason I am REALKY not looking forward to sewing miles and miles of molle webbing on everything, seems rather easy to do wrong, especially a longer 8 or 10 loop strip...
It's fairly forgiving, honestly. It's VERY repetitive, which is bad from the standpoint of becoming boring, but good from the standpoint of getting in lots of practice. You can always start by making some small pouches to get in some practice before taking on a big project! Good luck!
Hi! My review of this bag (I didn't make a build video, unfortunately) is here - ruclips.net/video/bsJUwvh_vfg/видео.html Thanks for watching and commenting!
I almost exclusively use nylon thread in size V-69. The Thread Exchange has a great selection and a lot of information. I don't know what the MilSpec for MOLLE requires, but V69 has worked great for me on many projects with MOLLE/PALS. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Jason, I like the idea of MOLLE sticks, are they readily available ? I have found on the gear I have bought at ARMY surplus stores that the plastic / nylon clasps are the weak link. J K
Hi James, Yes, they are available at some of the e-tailers that sell tactical gear. I've purchased them from Vanquest and ITS Tactical (no affiliation with either, just a happy customer). Thanks for watching!
Thanks! Here's a video on how I made the pattern - ruclips.net/video/ynpo9r14R9A/видео.html And, in case you haven't seen it, here's a look at the completed bag - ruclips.net/video/bsJUwvh_vfg/видео.html Thanks for watching and commenting!
I've seen this done, but I haven't tried it myself. I think it might be better to sew velcro to the webbing than to just use the velcro AS the webbing. But it would definitely add some versatility!
Hi Wendy, Sorry for taking so long to reply. This bag is made of 1000 Denier Cordura nylon, and the olive drab section, as well as the interior lining, is 500D Cordura. I have a full review of this bag here - ruclips.net/video/bsJUwvh_vfg/видео.html Thanks for watching!
That's exactly why my green EDC backpack is covered with this stuff. I ended up sewing the front pocket on after realizing that I was totally happy with that, but everything else remains modular.
Hi! That is a Singer 29-4 "patcher." It is a cobbler's machine, intended for patching shoes. It is commonly used for things like sewing patches to leather jackets, because the sewing head can be turned 360 degrees while sewing (so you turn the head instead of the piece you are sewing). I've never used this one, picked it up at an antique store. It's possible that 2021 will be the year I finally get it going. There are some very cheap versions of this machine (google "Chinese patcher") available on the internet, as well. Thanks for watching!
Hi John, In this project I used a polyester thread in size V92, but I'm not sure I recommend it. The strands of the thread tend to separate while sewing with it. I've used it in other projects with no discernible issues, though. (I'm uploading a review of the finished bag in the next day or so, and I talk more about this thread in that video.) My go-to thread is bonded nylon in size V69. Size 69 is generally considered the heaviest thread one should use in a domestic machine, and I regularly use it in my Sailrite. We also use it a lot on industrial machines at my work. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi Jeff, Sorry for taking so long to reply! I generally use bonded nylon, usually in size V69 (aka T70) for everything I sew. In this video, I was actually using V92 polyester, only because it was the only OD green thread I had. I previously used this thread in my toiletry bag, one of the most successful and long-lived projects I've made. However, this particular thread has had a tendency to unravel when I'm sewing at times (but NOT after it has been sewn in). I don't have a lot of experience with polyester to say whether or not it would be better in some applications, but bonded nylon has been my go-to for almost everything I sew. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
I know it's not necessarily germane to this particular video, but have you ever tried to sew scuba webbing? If so, how did it go? What machine and setup (needle size, thread, etc) did you use? Thanks!
Hi, I'm so sorry for taking so long to reply! I have not sewn SCUBA webbing. It's been some time since I've handled it, but if my memory serves, it's pretty dense stuff. I suspect it should be sewable with most machines, but it may be helpful to choose the right needle and thread; I'm purely speculating, though. I would try my freediving weight belt to see, but it's rubber, sorry! :)
Hey Jason, Did you or anyone find the specs on that stitch for the Pals webbing. I was going to make one as well but would like to get the proper specs from the start so I can do it correct instead of aimlessly sewing hoping for the best lol. Great video! I always get good info and inspiration.
Hi Greg, At the moment, I am unable to find a reliable source for the actual specs. That said, what I did on my green DIY/EDC pack that I've carried for the last three years (literally every single day) and have had stuff hanging off of its PALS grid is; I sewed back and forth about three times with a relatively short stitch setting. To be a little more specific - at 9 stitches per inch, sewing the 1" 17337 webbing (or other 1" webbing) three times will give you 27 stitches, plus a few backtacks. The load being carried at any attachment point will be divided between two of these rows of stitches (at minimum). The more rows of PALS supporting what you're mounting, the less weight each stitch has to hold. I'm pretty confident in saying that if you stitch back and forth a total of three times (at least) with size 69 nylon thread, sewing 17337 webbing to 1000D cordura, you probably wouldn't be able to carry the amount of weight it would take to make it fail. If I find out the exact specs, I'll definitely let you know!
Thanks! This machine is my Sailrite Ultrafeed LS1 portable walking-foot machine. I have strong (good) opinions about this machine. If you're interested, check out my review and unboxing videos on this machine. Also, my video "why do I have so many sewing machines" shows a bit about where this machine fits (and doesn't) in my collection. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades too many sewing machines? Perish the thought ! People like us... We have to be careful when we talk to mere mortals. We have to take into consideration that narrow minded, untalented, unmotivated, uncreative, unproductive simpletons are the vast majority of boring people out there. Thinking out of the box is is too hard for the boring people. If i have less than 50 different hammers, the blacksmith in me gets nervous, 7 different welding machines is a good start in my shop. My Carpentry and yardwork, never mind the tooling involved with that. My next sewing machine will be the sailrite LSZ-1. That'll give me the stretchy hems and bar tacks i need on my many sewing projects. Juki 5550, consew 227, cowboy 3200 are my modest start on a collection of machines. I'm careful not to divulge my tool and equipment collection, because I'll be faced with that dull question of "WHY so much?". Wanting to be talented and resourceful is what has payed my bills in this world of people who can't think out of the box. Sorry, i had to get that off my chest. " The one eyed man is king in a world of blind people "
Hi Jason Was wondering how feasable it is to sew a few PALS/Molle attachment points on by hand,assuming it can be done if you have the time !!?(attaching to Cordura) ? I have a machine but don't really want to take the pack apart.... Just found your channel and now subbed ! Many thanks from across the pond Dean
Hi Dean, So sorry it has taken me so long to reply! You can definitely do it by hand, although it will be time-consuming. I would suggest getting a curved needle to make it easier to only go through the outer layer of fabric and not the liner. You'll need to use care, but depending on how the pack is constructed, it's probably doable. I hope that helps, let me know how it turns out!
@@thejasonofalltrades Hi Jason No worries. Good call with the curved needles..i will invest. Assuming i don't want to go through the liner for reasons of water resistance rather than just asthetic's ?A job for the upcoming colder,darker months ahead i believe..maybe not for you !! Appreciate the advice and look forward to more content . Thanks again
@@deanmoriarty67 The main reason to avoid going through the liner is just to avoid the stitches showing on the inside of the bag. If you don't mind that, you can go all the way through (unless your bag has a vinyl liner or some other water-resistant material you don't want to puncture). Yeah, I used to have colder, darker months, lol! Thanks for being part of the channel, let me know how your project works out!
Man, I swore I replied to this already, sorry! Unfortunately, I don't know of any fabric glue or other process that will have enough strength for this application. The good news is that the sewing isn't hard to learn, and just about any cheap, used sewing machine can probably pull it off. You could even hand-sew them, although that would definitely be time consuming! I hope that helps, good luck!
The machine used in this video is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. Full disclosure, that machine was provided to me by Sailrite to review. I have since purchased the zig-zag capable version, the LSZ-1, with my own money at full price. I HIGHLY recommend these machines. Check my channel for a review of the LSZ-1, and many other videos featuring them. You will find if you do any googling about these machines that there are MANY look-alike machines for FAR less money: I have spoken at length on this in many videos, my position in short is you get what you pay for, and don't be fooled by thinking that something that LOOKS like something else is THE SAME as that thing. If the Sailrite is out of your budget (they are NOT cheap), a used industrial walking-foot machine is a good way to go if you have the space. If you are just starting out, I have come to love my Singer HD machine (after years of having a low opinion of them). I just finished a year-long evaluation, several videos on my channel for that one as well. It's a little dated, but this video covers my thoughts on sewing machine selection pretty well (other than I would add the Singer HD now). ruclips.net/video/fFq5QXgF4v8/видео.html
Hi! That machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS1 (also available with zig-zag as the LSZ-1). I have several videos on my channel regarding these machines if you want to learn more, they're excellent!
I believe the 42 stitch bar tack is the technically proper bar tack, but as you say any reasonable effort will do the job. Scroll down to page three in this document for a diagram of the bar tack: www.precision.net/images/sb1221.pdf
Great info, thanks! (By the way, I spent most of the 90s jumping out of airplanes, and seeing the name "Precision Aerodynamics" sent me right down memory lane!)
Hi, Your Bernina should be fine (I say this having never used one). The only parts that might be troublesome for a non-walking-foot machine would be at thicker seams, where you might have to help the machine out by hand-wheeling, lifting the foot, using a seam jack or any other method you have that works for you and your machine. 17337 webbing and the 1000D Cordura I used in this video can be readily sewn by most domestic machines. Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
I haven't run across anything, but you might check out Mil-Spec Monkey, if they don't have anything in their store they might have links to other sources.
The stitch used for attaching PALS webbing is called a "bar tack." It is technically made up of a straight stitch followed by several passes of zig-zag stitch. If you are sewing to a particular standard or specification (like "Mil-Spec"), that will call for a particular stitch length, width and number of stitches. However, for a DIY project, even just sewing back-and-forth with a straight stitch a few times gets the job done. In theory, one could certainly hadn't sew webbing on. It might be difficult. A sailor's "sewing palm" might help make pushing the needle through hurt less. I use bonded nylon thread in size V69 almost exclusively. It works great for attaching webbing to fabrics like Cordura, ballistic nylon, etc. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
I almost exclusively use bonded nylon thread in size V69. I've used this thread extensively with no issues. I usually get my thread from The Thread Exchange. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Hi!, It is possible to remove it, but depending on the material the pack is made from, it may leave unsightly holes and will not be as water-resistant as it was. All you need to do is use a seam ripper to cut//pull the stitches where the webbing is sewn down. Where the webbing terminates into a seam, you would either have to cut it as short as possible and singe it (carefully) with a lighter, or leave it a little longer and sew it into a small loop (you could hand a carabiner or something from that loop, and it would probably look neater than just cutting it off). It would only take a seam ripper and some scissors to remove it, but honestly I'm not sure the end result would be better. If you have a functional reason to remove it (webbing hangs up on stuff, for example) and you aren't concerned with aesthetics and/or water resistance, it could definitely be done. I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Hey there man! Thank you for your kind reply! Overall is a project of mine which contains a Interceptor vest. Body armor actually. Thing it is it has more webbing on than the old one. I kinda want it to remove to be more oldish.
Great video! I have an existing bag that I want to add more organization to, but am not sure where to start; my sewing experience is not non-existent, but is limited and I don't want to mess up the bag. Would you be available to bounce some ideas off of? If so, please message me here on RUclips. Thanks!
Generally, none. There should be enough "flexibility" in the relationship between the webbing and the fabric, unless you've pack the finished pack really full, I guess. I think too loose would be more problematic, personally. I haven't followed any particular guide, nor have I thoroughly reviewed the MIL-SPEC, so there may be some more detail to this, but what I've always done is just lay the webbing flat on the fabric and sewed it with no additional clearance built in. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks! I originally had "load-bearing" written on my white board (if you look carefully you can see it in the opening clip), but the information I saw said load-carrying. Either way, I guess! Thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades I enjoy all you vids. I have a fully restored singer rocketeer and material....tines my issue. Thanks for all the great info and vibe.
thejasonofalltrades i have original onwers and service manual .pdf And as you know, yt, is amazing for info. If you need them when time comes, let me know.
hi i was looking for cheap sewing machine for this job and other,bags,light tent canvas and some paochs ,but i have no idea and dont want to spend too much money for expensive machine because i am a beginning level.. how about ((brother)) cheap machine ?? there is no daily works like sewing shops it just for weekend projects.. thanks a lots
HI, I'm working on a video to answer this question, because anytime anyone asks I end up typing a 4000-word essay, lol! In a nutshell, I don't have a good opinion of new, inexpensive machines. You may have a great experience with one, I don't know, but I've never used them and don't have a lot of trust in them to work well for a long time. I have a strong bias toward older machines, though, so take that with a grain of salt. I think the best way to start sewing is with a vintage (preferably 1950-1970) machine, bought as cheaply as possible.I've paid as little as $12 for a machine that I used to re-upholster a pair of car seats, among other things. If you're willing to hunt, you can find a good machine at a thrift store for well under $50. The problem is you may have to spend some time lurking thrift shops until you find the right machine. Check out my "why do I have so many sewing machines" video to see some options. If you must buy a new machine, my personal opinion is try to get the best deal you can, and consider the machine your initial machine to hold you over until you can get something better (either a vintage machine, a Sailrite or other portable walking foot machine) or an industrial. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades no problem bud, great info. Update: it is indeed tedious, and I've been using mini pliers to push/pull the needle through, but it can be done! Haha
Hi, The exterior is 1000D Cordura nylon, and the interior is 500D Cordura. I used OD green seatbelt webbing for the strap and closure, and desert tan mil spec 17337 webbing for the PALS webbing on the sides. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi, That is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. I have a review and several other videos on this machine on my channel if you'd like to see more. Thanks for watching!
Everything I've ever seen has said 1.5", and all of the commercial MOLLE products I've tried have fit perfectly in the 1.5" space. But I'm going off of things I've seen on the internet, and I could definitely be wrong! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Ill look around for a link to the specs. I thought it was 1.5 inches and some of the stuff i made was too tight. Hey, on an unrelated note, dk you have any recommendations for a bar tacker machine?
Hi, First, I'm sorry for taking so long to reply to you! Yes, you can definitely sew this (or pretty much anything) by hand. It'll take a lot longer, and may be quite difficult depending on the materials used, but it can be done. I used to avoid hand sewing at all costs. I still don't do it much, but it can actually be quite enjoyable! Thanks for the question, and good luck!
dont have much time so i just leave this here: AOKU (a small manufacturer whos molle attachment pouches i reviewed) has done a video about different molle/pals attachment systems, see here: ruclips.net/video/ieaffrt7X2E/видео.html
The propaganda machine has done a number on us all. 10:40 I know that you've got zero ill intent and I love your video, it is just fascinating the level of deference people continue to show for Israel's mercenary underclass (the USMIL). They are paid quite well with many benefits in exchange for serving our foreign overlords and veterans shouldn't be treated like sacred cows. I'm not criticizing USMIL, we've all succumbed to propaganda or had to do what we had to at various points in our lives. I often wished I could've gone into service to learn so many useful skills, but now that I know who runs the show I could never advise anyone to do so.
@@thejasonofalltrades and I mean no disrespect either, It is a hard pill to swallow that we send our people to be killed and maimed in perpetuity for a foreign ruling class whose interests are opposite of our own. Great men throughout history have talked on this, such as Henry Ford, General Patton, etc, but curiously that is kept out of history books. General Patton wrote in his diary that we fought the wrong enemy in WWII and he was killed shortly before he would return to the US under strange circumstances. We don't learn of that, the USS Liberty attack, or Henry Ford's many writings warning us of this self-appointed overclass that was conspicuously tied to so many societal ills. We don't learn of the [redacted] individuals who celebrated in dance on nine 11, taking photos of the smoldering buildings from a safe distance away. I would attach some great resources for anyone to peruse and challenge their preconceptions, but those links are not allowed to be openly shared on *their* platforms. Regardless, I appreciate your molle tutorial. When the time comes, realize that we are not the enemy.
![ARGENTINA vs. PERÚ [1-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xtI25ENDDSY/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm in the military, and nothing you said needs an apology or disclaimer. Anyway, nice video. I just looked at my bag next to me to see how the stitching is done for the PALS. It looks like a single straight stitch down, then a zig zag stitch about 0.75 centimeters wide back up.
Great Video! As a former Military brat I had seen this set up before. Never considered adding it to my own bags. You have the hamster wheel in my brain spinning off it's hinges lol! As an RN, grandmother of a busy 2 year old, fur baby mom, and such a girl when it comes to a great handbag, this has so much practicality and can easily be sissied up if the need arises. Thanks so much for sharing this technique, I can't wait get started making some additions to both exterior and interior of my designs 😎
Thank you, I'd love to see what you come up with!
Typically a 28 stitch bar tack is used to tack 17337 down but several custom gear builders use 3 passes of straight stitch (which is what they use in laser cut 'MOLLE ' panels and it holds just fine.
GREAT info thanks!
I have a US MOLLE backpack from army/navy surplus store and it has zig-zag on the straps. 2mm wide and 18mm long strip with about 24 stitches in that length. If you do try to find a MIL spec for sewing, there should also be something about thread tension spec in there too like a bolted connection will have a torque spec. What tensile strength does the thread have? If 20lbs times 24 stitches that's 480 or a factor of safety of 2X or more for a typical 95% Male. Of course a heavy pouch will have two MOLLE straps for even more of a safety factor.
Really great info, thanks for contributing!
Hello I was working in the passs for a company name SPEC UP they specialize in back pack for military we use a material name cordura 1000 and the company is now close and i am loooking for work in sewing if someone out threar are interested in this type of work i have experience spend 20 years working for spec up ...thank you for sharing your work....i got a sewing shop with 12 sewing machines
University of Oregon Product Design people are grateful for your work! Week 1 on my new LSZ-1 has been great. THANK YOU.
Thank YOU!
I'm glad you're liking your LSZ-1.
Thanks for being part of the channel!
Thanks for the education and inspiration. I want to build a PALS now, super versatile, very functional and I think it looks cool too. Nice project Jason! 🙂
Thanks Alexander!
Alexander
That's the way to go for bicycle gear. I made all my bike bags(panniers, Jones bar bag, stem feed bags) with molle(pals) straps. Made it all with my 1946 Kenmore Rotary sewing machine.
In my research I found it to be 7 stitches per inch single row then a zig zag stitch to mil-spec standards. I sew back and forth like you did, easier for me with no issues at all.
For those interested, the "official" requirements for PALS webbing barracks is that they will be 3/4 inch long and hold a minimum of 250 pounds. No specified pitch or barrack width....
Thanks! Do you know of a resource where that is documented (that "normal" folks can access)?
Very educational. I am always looking for options to attach gear. Thank you for the demonstration.
Great video. Your video, and the comments show the simple utility and versatility of PALS amd MOLLE. Glad I found this. Thank you.
By far the best Chanel on here. 💯👍🏻
Hi guy it s Norm the guy with ALS I just wanted to say I have learned a lot off you over the last year want you to no your videos are great your appreciated
Hey Norm! It's good to hear from you. Thanks for watching, I'm glad I can share what I'm learning. Keep well my friend!
thejasonofalltrades hi my next challenge is I want to make working dogs vests for disabled folks or rescue vests re I have a service dog so I got a good idea how to start I forget the name you call the people vests that you can add or take pockets off well that is what I what to do with dog ones and thanks to your great teaching I am coming along Thank you for the work you do so you no your appreciated Norm
Super helpful video. I have given up looking for the perfect carry all camera bag and found the MOLLE bags. Just going to make my own. Looking up those MOLLE sticks now!
Thank you!
Very informative and transparent throughout the whole process. Thanks for including some potential hurdles others may encounter. Keep up the good work! 9/10
Great explanation...former army guy and didn't know pals ha. I've got my sailrite on the same drafting table. Thank you for the vids.
Thanks Brian,
That's pretty cool that you're using a drafting table as well. I'm planning to make a new top for mine with a cutout to mount my machines in, you might want to check that project out whenever I get it done!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
thejasonofalltrades I have something similar in the works too. The table top design is based on the "Paulk workbench." Keep up the great work!
Knowing is half the battle! No idea what the other half is but that PALs vs MOLLE debate is over. :) Nice work Jason! Can't wait to see the completed project.
MISC: I see your magnetic cup. I use neo.magnets under a pieces of Gaff tape (NOT duct tape). Esp useful on my non-magnetic machines. for pins and snips. Also I've moved to a soldering iron. I burned/ruined too much stuff w/Flame. :/
-You are spot on in the details w/ Molle-Pals, from everything I've read/watched.
-The bag is looking great!
-I made some Molle-sticks w/Kydex and shock cord. They work, not perfect, but functional.
Cheers Jason!
Hey David!
I like the idea of magnets under gaffer's tape (I'm a big fan of gaffer's tape).
Yeah, I've made the mistake of getting the flame too close, but now I use a lighter at work all the time, so I'm comfortable with it - until I ruin something again lol.
Dude, you made your own MOLLE sticks?!? Intrigued.
Thanks for being part of the channel!
Ive never made molle sticks. But from what I can see of them, I dare say plastic conduit could be used. There are several videos aroynd on how to make axe/tom9hawk covers around on here. If you watch that you'll see it is very doable and bend it over upon itsels to make a clip of sorts
It is correct to connect dogs to service people who parachute into combat situations. I dont know there exact harness set up but it has been going on for a while
Man, I didn't even think about that angle! Thanks for sharing!
As one who served In the military As a combat Shoulder And sewed Combat equipment Like flak jackets and more I would often used The MOLLE System. As of sewing on The webbing I leave About An inch between straps Like you Did . In the video You talked about the stitching you used And you Weren't sure if it holds up in military specs,Still what I would do Because I had a straight Stitch At the time and didn't have any zig zag options I just Would go Front words and back 2 to 3 times And wouldn't even lift my foot and move on to the next i would just keep on selling in a straight line to the next strep . As of Strange and military specs For me it held up pretty good and did not have Any problems. I love watching your projects I'm very inspired by them And get good ideas to.I hope I helped in the way If you have anymore questions Feel free to ask . It's always good To get a second opinion .
feel free to contact me for pics. of the Pouches I made
Thanks for contributing your knowledge!
Hey brother ! It's been awhile since I watched. You were on a move last video I watched ! Missed your content keep making videos you have taught me alot ! Thanks a million !
Thanks man! More stuff is coming, stay tuned!
Excellent tutorial and the video was exactly what I was looking for and wanted to know.
The specifications you're talking about for bartacks come from the MIL-V-43544 publication (you can find the pdf on everyspec). I know this is an older video but didn't see it mentioned in the comments.
That's awesome, thanks for the heads-up! I've got some reading to do now :)
I appreciate your humor!
Good to see Alexander Dyer is keeping an eye on what his fellow male RUclips sewer's are up too, I have to thank both of you two for a ton of inspiration. Jason great walk through and tutorial of M.O.L.L.E/P.A.L.S , thanks for sharing.
Finally. Someone who knows what they are talking about. I thought I was on my own. 👍
You made that bag!? That’s awesome! Do you take orders??? I’d like a custom sling bag
I am just getting into sewing and learning a lot all at once.
For some reason I am REALKY not looking forward to sewing miles and miles of molle webbing on everything, seems rather easy to do wrong, especially a longer 8 or 10 loop strip...
It's fairly forgiving, honestly. It's VERY repetitive, which is bad from the standpoint of becoming boring, but good from the standpoint of getting in lots of practice. You can always start by making some small pouches to get in some practice before taking on a big project! Good luck!
Your preface should be “STANDING ORDERS” on all RUclips videos, forums, and in bars.
👍🏼
Wheres the video for this bag you made? Looks solid.
Hi!
My review of this bag (I didn't make a build video, unfortunately) is here - ruclips.net/video/bsJUwvh_vfg/видео.html
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Love your videos Jason keep up the good work!!!!
Thanks so much!
Thanks for the video. Just want to know thread size(#) and what thread material you are using to sew the molle straps with.
Thanks for your time
I almost exclusively use nylon thread in size V-69. The Thread Exchange has a great selection and a lot of information. I don't know what the MilSpec for MOLLE requires, but V69 has worked great for me on many projects with MOLLE/PALS.
Thanks for watching!
nighthawkandlight makes a video on waterproofing things he used silicon window calking and namptha
Thanks Jason, I like the idea of MOLLE sticks, are they readily available ? I have found on the gear I have bought at ARMY surplus stores that the plastic / nylon clasps are the weak link. J K
Hi James,
Yes, they are available at some of the e-tailers that sell tactical gear. I've purchased them from Vanquest and ITS Tactical (no affiliation with either, just a happy customer).
Thanks for watching!
Good job man.
Great video. Any chance you have the pattern of the pack you show on this video? Would really love to try my hand at that one. Looks awesome!
Thanks!
Here's a video on how I made the pattern - ruclips.net/video/ynpo9r14R9A/видео.html
And, in case you haven't seen it, here's a look at the completed bag - ruclips.net/video/bsJUwvh_vfg/видео.html
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Also, thoughts on replacing the webbing with 1" loop velcro for dual attatcment options.
I've seen this done, but I haven't tried it myself. I think it might be better to sew velcro to the webbing than to just use the velcro AS the webbing. But it would definitely add some versatility!
Pretty cool video. What kind of sewing machine is that?
Thanks! This machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. I'm a big fan of their machines!
Thanks for watching!
What material are you using to make the bag? Great video by the way
Hi Wendy,
Sorry for taking so long to reply. This bag is made of 1000 Denier Cordura nylon, and the olive drab section, as well as the interior lining, is 500D Cordura. I have a full review of this bag here - ruclips.net/video/bsJUwvh_vfg/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
I want to add this capability to my yet to exist bag, so I don't have to finalize the design before starting!
That's exactly why my green EDC backpack is covered with this stuff. I ended up sewing the front pocket on after realizing that I was totally happy with that, but everything else remains modular.
What is that large and beefy “sewing machine” in the 3:18 background? The one with a bridge-style support on its top?
Hi!
That is a Singer 29-4 "patcher." It is a cobbler's machine, intended for patching shoes. It is commonly used for things like sewing patches to leather jackets, because the sewing head can be turned 360 degrees while sewing (so you turn the head instead of the piece you are sewing). I've never used this one, picked it up at an antique store. It's possible that 2021 will be the year I finally get it going.
There are some very cheap versions of this machine (google "Chinese patcher") available on the internet, as well.
Thanks for watching!
What thread do you use?
Thanks for the great information.
Hi John,
In this project I used a polyester thread in size V92, but I'm not sure I recommend it. The strands of the thread tend to separate while sewing with it. I've used it in other projects with no discernible issues, though. (I'm uploading a review of the finished bag in the next day or so, and I talk more about this thread in that video.)
My go-to thread is bonded nylon in size V69. Size 69 is generally considered the heaviest thread one should use in a domestic machine, and I regularly use it in my Sailrite. We also use it a lot on industrial machines at my work.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hey Jason.. do you use bonded nylon or polyester thread for Cordura sewing? Thx again my friend
Hi Jeff,
Sorry for taking so long to reply!
I generally use bonded nylon, usually in size V69 (aka T70) for everything I sew.
In this video, I was actually using V92 polyester, only because it was the only OD green thread I had. I previously used this thread in my toiletry bag, one of the most successful and long-lived projects I've made. However, this particular thread has had a tendency to unravel when I'm sewing at times (but NOT after it has been sewn in). I don't have a lot of experience with polyester to say whether or not it would be better in some applications, but bonded nylon has been my go-to for almost everything I sew.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I know it's not necessarily germane to this particular video, but have you ever tried to sew scuba webbing? If so, how did it go? What machine and setup (needle size, thread, etc) did you use?
Thanks!
Hi,
I'm so sorry for taking so long to reply!
I have not sewn SCUBA webbing. It's been some time since I've handled it, but if my memory serves, it's pretty dense stuff. I suspect it should be sewable with most machines, but it may be helpful to choose the right needle and thread; I'm purely speculating, though.
I would try my freediving weight belt to see, but it's rubber, sorry! :)
Hey Jason, Did you or anyone find the specs on that stitch for the Pals webbing. I was going to make one as well but would like to get the proper specs from the start so I can do it correct instead of aimlessly sewing hoping for the best lol. Great video! I always get good info and inspiration.
Hi Greg,
At the moment, I am unable to find a reliable source for the actual specs. That said, what I did on my green DIY/EDC pack that I've carried for the last three years (literally every single day) and have had stuff hanging off of its PALS grid is; I sewed back and forth about three times with a relatively short stitch setting.
To be a little more specific - at 9 stitches per inch, sewing the 1" 17337 webbing (or other 1" webbing) three times will give you 27 stitches, plus a few backtacks. The load being carried at any attachment point will be divided between two of these rows of stitches (at minimum). The more rows of PALS supporting what you're mounting, the less weight each stitch has to hold.
I'm pretty confident in saying that if you stitch back and forth a total of three times (at least) with size 69 nylon thread, sewing 17337 webbing to 1000D cordura, you probably wouldn't be able to carry the amount of weight it would take to make it fail.
If I find out the exact specs, I'll definitely let you know!
Do you ever use a backing material
Naw man..you done good ! What sewing machine aer you running there ?
Thanks!
This machine is my Sailrite Ultrafeed LS1 portable walking-foot machine. I have strong (good) opinions about this machine. If you're interested, check out my review and unboxing videos on this machine. Also, my video "why do I have so many sewing machines" shows a bit about where this machine fits (and doesn't) in my collection.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades too many sewing machines? Perish the thought ! People like us... We have to be careful when we talk to mere mortals. We have to take into consideration that narrow minded, untalented, unmotivated, uncreative, unproductive simpletons are the vast majority of boring people out there. Thinking out of the box is is too hard for the boring people. If i have less than 50 different hammers, the blacksmith in me gets nervous, 7 different welding machines is a good start in my shop. My Carpentry and yardwork, never mind the tooling involved with that. My next sewing machine will be the sailrite LSZ-1. That'll give me the stretchy hems and bar tacks i need on my many sewing projects. Juki 5550, consew 227, cowboy 3200 are my modest start on a collection of machines. I'm careful not to divulge my tool and equipment collection, because I'll be faced with that dull question of "WHY so much?". Wanting to be talented and resourceful is what has payed my bills in this world of people who can't think out of the box. Sorry, i had to get that off my chest. " The one eyed man is king in a world of blind people "
Fuck yeah now I'm gonna MOLLE my Adidas shit. Perfect for AK load out.
Hi Jason
Was wondering how feasable it is to sew a few PALS/Molle attachment points on by hand,assuming it can be done if you have the time !!?(attaching to Cordura) ? I have a machine but don't really want to take the pack apart....
Just found your channel and now subbed !
Many thanks from across the pond
Dean
Hi Dean,
So sorry it has taken me so long to reply!
You can definitely do it by hand, although it will be time-consuming. I would suggest getting a curved needle to make it easier to only go through the outer layer of fabric and not the liner. You'll need to use care, but depending on how the pack is constructed, it's probably doable.
I hope that helps, let me know how it turns out!
@@thejasonofalltrades
Hi Jason
No worries.
Good call with the curved needles..i will invest.
Assuming i don't want to go through the liner for reasons of water resistance rather than just asthetic's ?A job for the upcoming colder,darker months ahead i believe..maybe not for you !!
Appreciate the advice and look forward to more content .
Thanks again
@@deanmoriarty67 The main reason to avoid going through the liner is just to avoid the stitches showing on the inside of the bag. If you don't mind that, you can go all the way through (unless your bag has a vinyl liner or some other water-resistant material you don't want to puncture).
Yeah, I used to have colder, darker months, lol!
Thanks for being part of the channel, let me know how your project works out!
Could you use fabric glue or another way to make it strong without out the skill or machine to sew
Man, I swore I replied to this already, sorry!
Unfortunately, I don't know of any fabric glue or other process that will have enough strength for this application. The good news is that the sewing isn't hard to learn, and just about any cheap, used sewing machine can probably pull it off. You could even hand-sew them, although that would definitely be time consuming!
I hope that helps, good luck!
Thanks for the video
Thanks! Very informative!
Thank you, Stephen!
What kind of machine do you have? What would recommend .
The machine used in this video is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. Full disclosure, that machine was provided to me by Sailrite to review. I have since purchased the zig-zag capable version, the LSZ-1, with my own money at full price. I HIGHLY recommend these machines.
Check my channel for a review of the LSZ-1, and many other videos featuring them. You will find if you do any googling about these machines that there are MANY look-alike machines for FAR less money: I have spoken at length on this in many videos, my position in short is you get what you pay for, and don't be fooled by thinking that something that LOOKS like something else is THE SAME as that thing.
If the Sailrite is out of your budget (they are NOT cheap), a used industrial walking-foot machine is a good way to go if you have the space. If you are just starting out, I have come to love my Singer HD machine (after years of having a low opinion of them). I just finished a year-long evaluation, several videos on my channel for that one as well.
It's a little dated, but this video covers my thoughts on sewing machine selection pretty well (other than I would add the Singer HD now). ruclips.net/video/fFq5QXgF4v8/видео.html
What brand of sewing machine is that? I see it’s a walking foot?
Hi!
That machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS1 (also available with zig-zag as the LSZ-1). I have several videos on my channel regarding these machines if you want to learn more, they're excellent!
I believe the 42 stitch bar tack is the technically proper bar tack, but as you say any reasonable effort will do the job. Scroll down to page three in this document for a diagram of the bar tack: www.precision.net/images/sb1221.pdf
Great info, thanks! (By the way, I spent most of the 90s jumping out of airplanes, and seeing the name "Precision Aerodynamics" sent me right down memory lane!)
Thanks for this video! Q: Can I use my Bernina to sew these? I'd LOVE to make my own day pack!!
Hi,
Your Bernina should be fine (I say this having never used one). The only parts that might be troublesome for a non-walking-foot machine would be at thicker seams, where you might have to help the machine out by hand-wheeling, lifting the foot, using a seam jack or any other method you have that works for you and your machine. 17337 webbing and the 1000D Cordura I used in this video can be readily sewn by most domestic machines.
Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Damn, what a great video.
Thanks!
How does one find NIR / IRR compliant material to do this sort of thing?
I haven't run across anything, but you might check out Mil-Spec Monkey, if they don't have anything in their store they might have links to other sources.
Is there a name for the stitch you're using? Can it be done by hand? What thread would you recommend? Thanks!
The stitch used for attaching PALS webbing is called a "bar tack." It is technically made up of a straight stitch followed by several passes of zig-zag stitch. If you are sewing to a particular standard or specification (like "Mil-Spec"), that will call for a particular stitch length, width and number of stitches. However, for a DIY project, even just sewing back-and-forth with a straight stitch a few times gets the job done.
In theory, one could certainly hadn't sew webbing on. It might be difficult. A sailor's "sewing palm" might help make pushing the needle through hurt less.
I use bonded nylon thread in size V69 almost exclusively. It works great for attaching webbing to fabrics like Cordura, ballistic nylon, etc.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for the very informative reply!
are you using high strength nylon threading for the sewing?
I almost exclusively use bonded nylon thread in size V69. I've used this thread extensively with no issues. I usually get my thread from The Thread Exchange.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Hey there! I know this question well mine.. it is possible to remove it? I mean the molle webbing.
Hi!,
It is possible to remove it, but depending on the material the pack is made from, it may leave unsightly holes and will not be as water-resistant as it was. All you need to do is use a seam ripper to cut//pull the stitches where the webbing is sewn down. Where the webbing terminates into a seam, you would either have to cut it as short as possible and singe it (carefully) with a lighter, or leave it a little longer and sew it into a small loop (you could hand a carabiner or something from that loop, and it would probably look neater than just cutting it off).
It would only take a seam ripper and some scissors to remove it, but honestly I'm not sure the end result would be better. If you have a functional reason to remove it (webbing hangs up on stuff, for example) and you aren't concerned with aesthetics and/or water resistance, it could definitely be done.
I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Hey there man! Thank you for your kind reply! Overall is a project of mine which contains a Interceptor vest. Body armor actually. Thing it is it has more webbing on than the old one. I kinda want it to remove to be more oldish.
Thanks very imformative
Great video! I have an existing bag that I want to add more organization to, but am not sure where to start; my sewing experience is not non-existent, but is limited and I don't want to mess up the bag. Would you be available to bounce some ideas off of? If so, please message me here on RUclips. Thanks!
Hi Martin,
The best way to reach me is to email me at thejasonofalltrades @ gmail . com
Send me an email, I'm happy to help if I can!
What clearance allowance do you give to be able to feed webbing through the loops
Generally, none. There should be enough "flexibility" in the relationship between the webbing and the fabric, unless you've pack the finished pack really full, I guess. I think too loose would be more problematic, personally.
I haven't followed any particular guide, nor have I thoroughly reviewed the MIL-SPEC, so there may be some more detail to this, but what I've always done is just lay the webbing flat on the fabric and sewed it with no additional clearance built in.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades very much so. Thanks
"Load-Bearing"... great video
Thanks!
I originally had "load-bearing" written on my white board (if you look carefully you can see it in the opening clip), but the information I saw said load-carrying. Either way, I guess!
Thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades I enjoy all you vids. I have a fully restored singer rocketeer and material....tines my issue. Thanks for all the great info and vibe.
Thank YOU. And a Rocketeer is on my "when I see one at the right price" list. Awesome looking machines.
thejasonofalltrades i have original onwers and service manual .pdf
And as you know, yt, is amazing for info.
If you need them when time comes, let me know.
Ha, I like this guy
thanks very
hi
i was looking for cheap sewing machine for this job and other,bags,light tent canvas and some paochs ,but i have no idea and dont want to spend too much money for expensive machine because i am a beginning level.. how about ((brother)) cheap machine ?? there is no daily works like sewing shops it just for weekend projects..
thanks a lots
HI,
I'm working on a video to answer this question, because anytime anyone asks I end up typing a 4000-word essay, lol!
In a nutshell, I don't have a good opinion of new, inexpensive machines. You may have a great experience with one, I don't know, but I've never used them and don't have a lot of trust in them to work well for a long time. I have a strong bias toward older machines, though, so take that with a grain of salt.
I think the best way to start sewing is with a vintage (preferably 1950-1970) machine, bought as cheaply as possible.I've paid as little as $12 for a machine that I used to re-upholster a pair of car seats, among other things.
If you're willing to hunt, you can find a good machine at a thrift store for well under $50. The problem is you may have to spend some time lurking thrift shops until you find the right machine.
Check out my "why do I have so many sewing machines" video to see some options.
If you must buy a new machine, my personal opinion is try to get the best deal you can, and consider the machine your initial machine to hold you over until you can get something better (either a vintage machine, a Sailrite or other portable walking foot machine) or an industrial.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades thank you for replying 👍🏻
Easy enough to hand-sew?
Hi! Depending on the materials used, maybe! It would be pretty tedious, though.
Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades no problem bud, great info. Update: it is indeed tedious, and I've been using mini pliers to push/pull the needle through, but it can be done! Haha
Excellent thanks
What fabric is that messenger bag mad of
Hi,
The exterior is 1000D Cordura nylon, and the interior is 500D Cordura. I used OD green seatbelt webbing for the strap and closure, and desert tan mil spec 17337 webbing for the PALS webbing on the sides.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
title info at 8:24...just a heads up
Video starts at 8:23
I think your device is broken, it actually starts at 0:00.
What kind of sewing machine is that?
Hi,
That is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. I have a review and several other videos on this machine on my channel if you'd like to see more.
Thanks for watching!
Pals, it's called pals, MOLLE is what the us adopted, it's a complete pals system,
Isnt it technically supposed to be 1.75 inches between the stitching on MOLLE/ PALS webbing?
Everything I've ever seen has said 1.5", and all of the commercial MOLLE products I've tried have fit perfectly in the 1.5" space. But I'm going off of things I've seen on the internet, and I could definitely be wrong!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Ill look around for a link to the specs. I thought it was 1.5 inches and some of the stuff i made was too tight. Hey, on an unrelated note, dk you have any recommendations for a bar tacker machine?
I haven't used a bar tacker. I'd love to have one, but it just isn't worth the investment (or space) for me at the moment. One day, maybe!
Call me stupid but is it possible though to sew it by hand ? 😅
Hi,
First, I'm sorry for taking so long to reply to you!
Yes, you can definitely sew this (or pretty much anything) by hand. It'll take a lot longer, and may be quite difficult depending on the materials used, but it can be done.
I used to avoid hand sewing at all costs. I still don't do it much, but it can actually be quite enjoyable!
Thanks for the question, and good luck!
SOMEONE ELSE PLEASE LIKD BC I JJST LIKED AND NOW THIS VID HAS EGZACTLY 666 LIKED
dont have much time so i just leave this here: AOKU (a small manufacturer whos molle attachment pouches i reviewed) has done a video about different molle/pals attachment systems, see here: ruclips.net/video/ieaffrt7X2E/видео.html
PALS is the proper generic name. It was called MOLLE because those were the first packs and gear to feature the system.
Why dont you call it "Spider webbing"......im sure the spiders won't mind 😁...and that way you won't get sued. I want royalties for that 🤑
The propaganda machine has done a number on us all. 10:40 I know that you've got zero ill intent and I love your video, it is just fascinating the level of deference people continue to show for Israel's mercenary underclass (the USMIL). They are paid quite well with many benefits in exchange for serving our foreign overlords and veterans shouldn't be treated like sacred cows. I'm not criticizing USMIL, we've all succumbed to propaganda or had to do what we had to at various points in our lives. I often wished I could've gone into service to learn so many useful skills, but now that I know who runs the show I could never advise anyone to do so.
With all due respect, I disagree with virtually every part of your comment.
@@thejasonofalltrades and I mean no disrespect either, It is a hard pill to swallow that we send our people to be killed and maimed in perpetuity for a foreign ruling class whose interests are opposite of our own. Great men throughout history have talked on this, such as Henry Ford, General Patton, etc, but curiously that is kept out of history books. General Patton wrote in his diary that we fought the wrong enemy in WWII and he was killed shortly before he would return to the US under strange circumstances. We don't learn of that, the USS Liberty attack, or Henry Ford's many writings warning us of this self-appointed overclass that was conspicuously tied to so many societal ills. We don't learn of the [redacted] individuals who celebrated in dance on nine 11, taking photos of the smoldering buildings from a safe distance away. I would attach some great resources for anyone to peruse and challenge their preconceptions, but those links are not allowed to be openly shared on *their* platforms. Regardless, I appreciate your molle tutorial. When the time comes, realize that we are not the enemy.
A lot of stuff guys wear in battle is modified and hand sewn yet works great. I would imagine what you are doing has to well exceed that spec.
the military personnel that come up with these acronyms have entirely too much time on their hands