I actually just bought a subaru liberty... in the U.S.A they are legacy as yous know and I had a clicking cluncking noise coming from my front right to whilst breaking and turning a very low speeds. Now I looked everywhere for the issues for a hint of something but come up empty handed every time until I had subaru look over it and they found that the guy who owned the car before me was doing D.I.Y maintenance now all the best to you for doing the stuff your self but bloody hell if you dont know what your doing just take it somewhere and have things fitted and fixed professionally now what they found was he changed the brake pads out and installed the pad or clips in the calliper wrong some how and every time I would brake and or corner or both it would tick and clunk not very loud but enough to no that it shouldn't be making them sounds so yea I hope this helps someone later on down the track somewhere..."stay safe all"
Every video about the clicking popping noise somebody's got to talk the whole time the clicking popping noises happening so one can't compare noises to their own noises to see if it's the same thing. You might provide a period of no talking during the noise.
I have this exact same thing, was only under load to begin with but now a little bit when coasting also, checked bearing etc etc and all good, thought the CV joint would be ok as the boot is not damaged, but now hearing the exact same noise mine makes, I can look at swapping them over, good vid fella👍
SOLVED - TLDR: check the brackets from LCA to car underbody are not too touching CAT convertor. Is they are the brackets are either on the wrong side (L>R, R>L), ir the heat shield is loose. I had same sound and managed to fix it. For me it was the metal bracket / brace that joins the lower control arm (LCA) to the body touching the catalytic converter heat shield - the mechanic put them back on the wrong side and the shape made them slightly touch.... I had the LCA bushings on my forester replaced and immediately as I drove out of the mechanics there was the severe rattle / grinding sound from left front when turning right (I am in Australia and the cat convertor is on the left side of car, I think in USA or right hand drive countries it runs on the right side so if this is the issue sound would come when turning left from right side??), more noticeable under load (I did a U-turn and went straight back in. I figured it had to be something other than major component failure as is did not exist when I drove it to the workshop. They checked all the components and screws they worked on but they said all good and it was shop closing time then so I took it home and tested and researched all night. There isn't much room between the 2 parts usually, and when they go back on the wrong way (bracket does still fit the gap fine on wrong way), there is a slight bend that they touch so it was too close and when turning and accelerating the torque and torsion of the car, the engine, and suspension / steering components must have been just enough to touch and make noise. For completeness, below a non-exhaustive list of things it could have been (lucky my idea on what it was was correct so didn't need to test the rest). - loose catalytic converter heat shield or heat shield touching something - bracket that attaches the exhaust pipe to the CVT - outer tie rod - brake dust shield rubbing disc or foreign material between shield and disc. - inner brake pads - brake caliper pins - wheel bearing - center diff (but being center it shouldn't only happen when turning one way though) - sway bar bushes - CV joint. - wheel nuts not tight
Thanks for this, i have a similar issue and it's not the CV/control arms etc as they are brand new (then a week or two later it started) so I'm going to investigate your above experience.
Same problem on my 2015 Outback, no torn boot, just annoying clicking sound only when doing a slow hard right turn. Replaced the front right axle, no more sound
Hey Francis I have the same problem like you but a Hyundai SUV. No ripped boots just the annoying clicking and clacking sound when turning right. I am at a standstill because one person said to change the right side because its happening when I turn right but the parts guy who I bought it from said you should get the left side CV axle. Not the right side. Kinda stuck now what I should do
@@williamthai9194 Oh, yeah, I heard that before, I was like WTF. Luckily I didn't listen to those guys. Just trust your ear, the sound comes from the right then change the right side. If you heard it from the left then change the left. Keep it simple.
I know this is an old comment but I have the same problem with my 2016 impreza. Clicking only when turning sharp either direction, but it seems to be worse when I turn right. My dad seems to be convinced that it's the front differential, but I'm hoping it's just a bad cv joint
My 2001 subaru outback ll bean edition did the same thing you can diagnose it better when you put a fuse in the (fwd) slot in fuse box in the engine compartment that way you're only hearing the front CV under load were in (awd) your putting load to all cv's if your fronts are bad you'll know right away
I just got Fortune Auto Coilovers installed on my 2023 Subaru WRX, in the beginning it didn’t clunk, but after 2 days of driving it the clunking is now affecting my driving experience.. but mainly at low speeds. Of 5-40mph… it is so annoying. Everyone says it’s the swaybar endlinks.. but what? Torque them more then recommended?? I paid a Subaru mechanic to do my install..
David Morales when I first described it to him he gave that as a possible cause for the sound, upon hearing it himself he was sure it was the front cv axles. After replacing them the problem was fixed.
I have similar sound replaced both CV's noise still there. Noise is only on passenger side. Took cv out removed 12mm bolt and lockdown metal clip on axel seal cover plate spun the cover in 1/4 turn using large channel locks not a punch like most ppl tend to do and sheer off the aluminum tabs. Noise now gone but confirms I have a bearing going bad since the transaxle preload has changed and needed ajusting.
Have a 2000 outback same symptoms except I replaced the axles and same problem but in my case its alot louder I think the transmission is binding up at slow rpms same passenger side deal except on mine when it pops it acts like the bearing is out ive checked it multiple times under load and I believe I got a different issue im just here trying to figure out what it is obviously axles aren't the only fix for something like this this is obviously a problem on subarus in general mine i feel like its the transmission because on a certain spot when manually rotating it it seems to not want to freely turn anymore just thought I'd share incase some one replaced axles and have still the same problem there's a part called the center differential that goes on the main transmission on a manual I think thats my problem
Did you ever figure out your problem ? I’m having the same issue with my 2015 crosstrek I did replace the front axles but when I park the car it cracks really loud right or left ? Is this what you had ?
So I came to the source of the problem it ended up being the front differential on my 2015 crosstrek I got a used one that I will be installing I did replace the axles three time two different sizes it only happens when you drove the car for a while cause at a cold start it doesn’t happen so my solution was I got a used transmission and the oem axles on eBay
@@spoopyyyk it’s your front differential which if it’s like mines when you drive it at first it doesn’t do it and once you drove for like 15 minutes that’s when the popping happens and that’s your front differential meaning expensive i just got used transmission for 1300$ with 70k miles on it and waitting so that I could replace it Pluss oem axles from eBay
@@edgarflores1677 it happens as soon as I turn my wheels, and only during slowing turns. They said it's not the center differential, idk why it's not that, they put an additive in the tranny fluid yesterday to see if it would help internally and they want to check the u joints in the drive shaft in a couple days.
It might be off-topic , but I noticed that your steering wheel is making the same ugly noise when steering like the one of my Forester does. I mean that „gnarrrr“. What is the root cause of that noise?
Hello, I have the same problem on my Toyota Fielder. Just bought a Rav 4 and regret it, because the Toyota technicians can't find a solution for the clicking sound on the Fielder. They actually replaced the entire CVT transmission for no reason. Now they say that the CV joints are perfect and after an entire weekend of tests, can't find the problem. I sent them this video. Did replacing the CV joints solve the problem?
Yeah this is happening to my New crosstrek after it's transmission replacment due to another entire different issue. So, I'm guessing it's something that wasn't torqued back in properly. Left turns and take off from stops, I have the noise.
SOLVED - I had same sound and managed to fix it. For me it was the metal brace that joins the lower control arm (LCA) to the body touching the catalytic converter heat shield. I had the LCA bushings on my forester replaced and immediately as I drove out of the mechanics there was the severe rattle / grinding sound when turning right (only right which may mean this video's issue is different), more noticeable under load (I did a U-turn and went straight back in. I figured it had to be something other than major component failure as is did not exist when I drove it to the workshop. They checked all the components and screws they worked on but they were all good and it was shop closing time then so I took it home and tested and researched all night. There isn't much room between the 2 parts usually, and the mechanic must have knocked the heat shield or not had the brace lined up perfectly so it was too close and when turning and accelerating the torque and torsion of the car, the engine, and suspension / steering components must have been just enough to touch and make noise. For completeness, this i a non-exhaustive list of things it could have been (lucky my idea on what it was was correct so didn't need to test the rest). - loose catalytic converter heat shield or heat shield touching something - bracket that attaches the exhaust pipe to the CVT - outer tie rod - brake dust shield rubbing disc or foreign material between shield and disc. - inner brake pads - brake caliper pins - wheel bearing - center diff (but being center it shouldn't only happen when turning one way though) - sway bar bushes - CV joint. - wheel nuts not tight
I've replace the CV axles I have put fluid in the transfer cases I put all new tires matching on my car I even gave it a transmission flush it only clunks when it's warm and when I'm taking a left or a right.
Wow it’s the same noise on my 2005 Subaru. I have owned this car for 3 years and it started doing this clunking noise since then. Mine does it only under load and turning left for right when at very low speed. The clunking noise makes the whole car shakes as if the transmission was going to fall off. Two mechanic shops said the transmission need to be replace but the car has zero problems moving back and forth in a straight line. No slipping transmission when doing that. CV axles look good but just very old and they said nothing wrong with them. I have totally gave up and I have been driving the car like that since the past 2 years.
If you have a manual transmission, start looking toward the viscous coupling. What you describe sounds like what's failing, and it is very apparent at low-speed turns. I don't think the auto trans in Subarus have this part, and a lot of mechanics just are perplexed by the AWD and manual-only part going bad. Replacing your whole transmission would probably fix the problem, but that would be like replacing your whole engine when all you need is a new alternator. The viscous coupling won't be a cheap repair, but a lot less than a whole transmission. Also, be sure you haven't overlooked something as simple as a broken transmission mount.
Thank you so much for your input. I have a automatic transmission. It does it only when turning either left or right barely when the wheels starting spinning but once it picks up a bit, the loud clicking goes away. It definitely something bad because the the whole cars shakes and the sounds is like the transmission it falling off. Thanks again
@@dair805 I don't want to dive into a guessing game. The only other thing I'd say is that a CV boot doesn't have to be ripped for an axle to fail. They can still wear out and fail with an intact boot. Especially if yours are original; they're nearly 20 years old.
hi @@jasonk19xx17, I have a 2011 Subaru with a manual transmission. After 15 minutes of driving in it, when you turn around you begin to hear something thunder and the car shakes. I would like to take a video and send it to you. I just want to be sure that it is the viscous coupler to do the one-time expense. If possible send me an email address to send you the video please. Thank you.
@@CJ-if1ry did you figure this out yet? My 07 Camry clicks when slowing down and you can feel a vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedal....CV boots look new, curious what your problem was
@@ashleyduff2393 Hello. I still don't know. Been driving it since then and it's more of a loud clank now over any clicking. It's random when breaking. For the vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedal, it's possible it could be something with your brake rotor/pads possibly. I am not sure.
I got this same issue, just finished replacing both control arms on my 2010 forester. Both axles check out, boots are not ripped or any signs of damage.My clunking noise happens when I make a left turn only.
Nothing yet other than my forester feels smooth when driving it after replacing the sway bar links, control arms, and axles..lol. But my clicking noise is still there when turning right, I was told it maybe the front differential gears.
if its a snapping sound when accelerating and turning at the same time, i would just replace both cv axles, easy enough to do and for both itll probably be about 250-300
Anyone have a clicking issue coming from the rear of a Subaru Legacy. Seems to be driver's side rear and only when turning. Does it maybe 10 to 15 times and stops.
So I just bought a 04 impreza rs, and on turns i could hear that clunking noise, after a few days it would do it just on the road with no turning, I've shook the axels and they move quite a bit. Is that a good giveaway that they are bad?
@@MrJOHNY347 I have no Idea but I've seen in use, long wire that run from the driver side all the way underneath the car, change to different parts of the car to figure the noise is coming from
Hi mate, have you fixed this problem or find out where is the noise come from? My car just have the same issue, hopefully, you will give me a hint， Thx a loooot!
SOLVED - I had same sound and managed to fix it. For me it was the metal bracket / brace that joins the lower control arm (LCA) to the body touching the catalytic converter heat shield - the mechanic put them back on the wrong side and the shape mae them slightly touch.... I had the LCA bushings on my forester replaced and immediately as I drove out of the mechanics there was the severe rattle / grinding sound when turning right (only right for me but I am in Australia and the cat convertor is on the left side of car, I think in USA or right hand drive countries it runs on the right side so if this is the issue sound would come when turning left from right side??), more noticeable under load (I did a U-turn and went straight back in. I figured it had to be something other than major component failure as is did not exist when I drove it to the workshop. They checked all the components and screws they worked on but they were all good and it was shop closing time then so I took it home and tested and researched all night. There isn't much room between the 2 parts usually, and when they go back on the wrong way (bracket does still fit the gap fine), there is a slight bend that they touch so it was too close and when turning and accelerating the torque and torsion of the car, the engine, and suspension / steering components must have been just enough to touch and make noise. For completeness, below a non-exhaustive list of things it could have been (lucky my idea on what it was was correct so didn't need to test the rest). - loose catalytic converter heat shield or heat shield touching something - bracket that attaches the exhaust pipe to the CVT - outer tie rod - brake dust shield rubbing disc or foreign material between shield and disc. - inner brake pads - brake caliper pins - wheel bearing - center diff (but being center it shouldn't only happen when turning one way though) - sway bar bushes - CV joint. - wheel nuts not tight
I have this exact issue: 2010 Impreza 2.0 My mechanic says it’s a busted differential. I’ll have him watch this video! Slow turns cause a clanking noise.
ruclips.net/video/RKzvoca4L1c/видео.html Was it the diff. I am in same boat. I guess I should try the cv replacement first. Even though I was told the diff.
And under closer inspection hub bearings im no expert nor am I a qualified mechanic but I do have enough of that stuff in my skull called brains 😉 to know it could only be a couple of things and thats the most realistic scenario
Same here. I replaced the front right and no improvement at all. The clicking can be heard when turning left, especially uphill. Have you been able to find the culprit? As a side note, that front right axle is the only one that had been previously replaced, by the dealer, some 40 K ago.
@@limerics SOLVED - I had same sound and managed to fix it. For me it was the metal bracket / brace that joins the lower control arm (LCA) to the body touching the catalytic converter heat shield - the mechanic put them back on the wrong side and the shape mae them slightly touch.... I had the LCA bushings on my forester replaced and immediately as I drove out of the mechanics there was the severe rattle / grinding sound when turning right (only right for me but I am in Australia and the cat convertor is on the left side of car, I think in USA or right hand drive countries it runs on the right side so if this is the issue sound would come when turning left from right side??), more noticeable under load (I did a U-turn and went straight back in. I figured it had to be something other than major component failure as is did not exist when I drove it to the workshop. They checked all the components and screws they worked on but they were all good and it was shop closing time then so I took it home and tested and researched all night. There isn't much room between the 2 parts usually, and when they go back on the wrong way (bracket does still fit the gap fine), there is a slight bend that they touch so it was too close and when turning and accelerating the torque and torsion of the car, the engine, and suspension / steering components must have been just enough to touch and make noise. For completeness, below a non-exhaustive list of things it could have been (lucky my idea on what it was was correct so didn't need to test the rest). - loose catalytic converter heat shield or heat shield touching something - bracket that attaches the exhaust pipe to the CVT - outer tie rod - brake dust shield rubbing disc or foreign material between shield and disc. - inner brake pads - brake caliper pins - wheel bearing - center diff (but being center it shouldn't only happen when turning one way though) - sway bar bushes - CV joint. - wheel nuts not tight
@@Benry1984 Thank you for your detailed response. I really appreciate it. I will check to see if any of the points you mentioned apply to my situation.
I'm having the same issue for my 2004 subaru impreza wrx wagon I did both axles and ball bearings but didn't fix the issue. My mechanic said it's the struts are just worn out. Since it has 204k miles and it's still stock
explain please..... i have 2010 impreza with a single clunk under load at low speed... cvs are new, center diff is new, everything else checks ok..... so what about this wishbone?
I love the happy face when you are explaining 😄 Thank you for your video👍🏽 God bless you.
I actually just bought a subaru liberty... in the U.S.A they are legacy as yous know and I had a clicking cluncking noise coming from my front right to whilst breaking and turning a very low speeds. Now I looked everywhere for the issues for a hint of something but come up empty handed every time until I had subaru look over it and they found that the guy who owned the car before me was doing D.I.Y maintenance now all the best to you for doing the stuff your self but bloody hell if you dont know what your doing just take it somewhere and have things fitted and fixed professionally now what they found was he changed the brake pads out and installed the pad or clips in the calliper wrong some how and every time I would brake and or corner or both it would tick and clunk not very loud but enough to no that it shouldn't be making them sounds so yea I hope this helps someone later on down the track somewhere..."stay safe all"
Every video about the clicking popping noise somebody's got to talk the whole time the clicking popping noises happening so one can't compare noises to their own noises to see if it's the same thing. You might provide a period of no talking during the noise.
That is aksing too much.
I have this exact same thing, was only under load to begin with but now a little bit when coasting also, checked bearing etc etc and all good, thought the CV joint would be ok as the boot is not damaged, but now hearing the exact same noise mine makes, I can look at swapping them over, good vid fella👍
sooo... finally what part is it? I jist bought a new front steering end. I hope it works. I am not sure what is happening with the conclusion jajajan
Axel
SOLVED - TLDR: check the brackets from LCA to car underbody are not too touching CAT convertor. Is they are the brackets are either on the wrong side (L>R, R>L), ir the heat shield is loose.
I had same sound and managed to fix it. For me it was the metal bracket / brace that joins the lower control arm (LCA) to the body touching the catalytic converter heat shield - the mechanic put them back on the wrong side and the shape made them slightly touch.... I had the LCA bushings on my forester replaced and immediately as I drove out of the mechanics there was the severe rattle / grinding sound from left front when turning right (I am in Australia and the cat convertor is on the left side of car, I think in USA or right hand drive countries it runs on the right side so if this is the issue sound would come when turning left from right side??), more noticeable under load (I did a U-turn and went straight back in. I figured it had to be something other than major component failure as is did not exist when I drove it to the workshop. They checked all the components and screws they worked on but they said all good and it was shop closing time then so I took it home and tested and researched all night. There isn't much room between the 2 parts usually, and when they go back on the wrong way (bracket does still fit the gap fine on wrong way), there is a slight bend that they touch so it was too close and when turning and accelerating the torque and torsion of the car, the engine, and suspension / steering components must have been just enough to touch and make noise.
For completeness, below a non-exhaustive list of things it could have been (lucky my idea on what it was was correct so didn't need to test the rest).
- loose catalytic converter heat shield or heat shield touching something
- bracket that attaches the exhaust pipe to the CVT
- outer tie rod
- brake dust shield rubbing disc or foreign material between shield and disc.
- inner brake pads
- brake caliper pins
- wheel bearing
- center diff (but being center it shouldn't only happen when turning one way though)
- sway bar bushes
- CV joint.
- wheel nuts not tight
Thanks for this, i have a similar issue and it's not the CV/control arms etc as they are brand new (then a week or two later it started) so I'm going to investigate your above experience.
Same problem on my 2015 Outback, no torn boot, just annoying clicking sound only when doing a slow hard right turn. Replaced the front right axle, no more sound
Hey Francis I have the same problem like you but a Hyundai SUV. No ripped boots just the annoying clicking and clacking sound when turning right. I am at a standstill because one person said to change the right side because its happening when I turn right but the parts guy who I bought it from said you should get the left side CV axle. Not the right side. Kinda stuck now what I should do
@@williamthai9194 Oh, yeah, I heard that before, I was like WTF. Luckily I didn't listen to those guys. Just trust your ear, the sound comes from the right then change the right side. If you heard it from the left then change the left. Keep it simple.
I know this is an old comment but I have the same problem with my 2016 impreza. Clicking only when turning sharp either direction, but it seems to be worse when I turn right. My dad seems to be convinced that it's the front differential, but I'm hoping it's just a bad cv joint
same
My 2001 subaru outback ll bean edition did the same thing you can diagnose it better when you put a fuse in the (fwd) slot in fuse box in the engine compartment that way you're only hearing the front CV under load were in (awd) your putting load to all cv's if your fronts are bad you'll know right away
I just got Fortune Auto Coilovers installed on my 2023 Subaru WRX, in the beginning it didn’t clunk, but after 2 days of driving it the clunking is now affecting my driving experience.. but mainly at low speeds. Of 5-40mph… it is so annoying. Everyone says it’s the swaybar endlinks.. but what? Torque them more then recommended?? I paid a Subaru mechanic to do my install..
Is it possible this sound comes due to dead transmission mount?
It’s the viscous coupling in the gearbox
Hyundia Santa Fe 2.7V6 If I do a U-turn, a big-jack sound comes from behind. What can I do to fix this problem
I had the same issue. Cv axle changed and it went away
May I ask if your mechanic mentioned a possible issue with the differential? I have the same noise. Says it might be a busted diff. Thank you!
David Morales when I first described it to him he gave that as a possible cause for the sound, upon hearing it himself he was sure it was the front cv axles. After replacing them the problem was fixed.
I have similar sound replaced both CV's noise still there. Noise is only on passenger side. Took cv out removed 12mm bolt and lockdown metal clip on axel seal cover plate spun the cover in 1/4 turn using large channel locks not a punch like most ppl tend to do and sheer off the aluminum tabs. Noise now gone but confirms I have a bearing going bad since the transaxle preload has changed and needed ajusting.
Have a 2000 outback same symptoms except I replaced the axles and same problem but in my case its alot louder I think the transmission is binding up at slow rpms same passenger side deal except on mine when it pops it acts like the bearing is out ive checked it multiple times under load and I believe I got a different issue im just here trying to figure out what it is obviously axles aren't the only fix for something like this this is obviously a problem on subarus in general mine i feel like its the transmission because on a certain spot when manually rotating it it seems to not want to freely turn anymore just thought I'd share incase some one replaced axles and have still the same problem there's a part called the center differential that goes on the main transmission on a manual I think thats my problem
Did you ever figure out your problem ? I’m having the same issue with my 2015 crosstrek I did replace the front axles but when I park the car it cracks really loud right or left ? Is this what you had ?
I replaced both my front axles and the popping didn't go away, mines a manual too.
So I came to the source of the problem it ended up being the front differential on my 2015 crosstrek I got a used one that I will be installing I did replace the axles three time two different sizes it only happens when you drove the car for a while cause at a cold start it doesn’t happen so my solution was I got a used transmission and the oem axles on eBay
@@spoopyyyk it’s your front differential which if it’s like mines when you drive it at first it doesn’t do it and once you drove for like 15 minutes that’s when the popping happens and that’s your front differential meaning expensive i just got used transmission for 1300$ with 70k miles on it and waitting so that I could replace it Pluss oem axles from eBay
@@edgarflores1677 it happens as soon as I turn my wheels, and only during slowing turns. They said it's not the center differential, idk why it's not that, they put an additive in the tranny fluid yesterday to see if it would help internally and they want to check the u joints in the drive shaft in a couple days.
It might be off-topic , but I noticed that your steering wheel is making the same ugly noise when steering like the one of my Forester does. I mean that „gnarrrr“. What is the root cause of that noise?
Hello, I have the same problem on my Toyota Fielder. Just bought a Rav 4 and regret it, because the Toyota technicians can't find a solution for the clicking sound on the Fielder. They actually replaced the entire CVT transmission for no reason. Now they say that the CV joints are perfect and after an entire weekend of tests, can't find the problem. I sent them this video. Did replacing the CV joints solve the problem?
Yeah this is happening to my New crosstrek after it's transmission replacment due to another entire different issue.
So, I'm guessing it's something that wasn't torqued back in properly.
Left turns and take off from stops, I have the noise.
SOLVED - I had same sound and managed to fix it. For me it was the metal brace that joins the lower control arm (LCA) to the body touching the catalytic converter heat shield. I had the LCA bushings on my forester replaced and immediately as I drove out of the mechanics there was the severe rattle / grinding sound when turning right (only right which may mean this video's issue is different), more noticeable under load (I did a U-turn and went straight back in. I figured it had to be something other than major component failure as is did not exist when I drove it to the workshop. They checked all the components and screws they worked on but they were all good and it was shop closing time then so I took it home and tested and researched all night. There isn't much room between the 2 parts usually, and the mechanic must have knocked the heat shield or not had the brace lined up perfectly so it was too close and when turning and accelerating the torque and torsion of the car, the engine, and suspension / steering components must have been just enough to touch and make noise.
For completeness, this i a non-exhaustive list of things it could have been (lucky my idea on what it was was correct so didn't need to test the rest).
- loose catalytic converter heat shield or heat shield touching something
- bracket that attaches the exhaust pipe to the CVT
- outer tie rod
- brake dust shield rubbing disc or foreign material between shield and disc.
- inner brake pads
- brake caliper pins
- wheel bearing
- center diff (but being center it shouldn't only happen when turning one way though)
- sway bar bushes
- CV joint.
- wheel nuts not tight
So of course the mechanic fixed it for you correctly, right??
I've replace the CV axles I have put fluid in the transfer cases I put all new tires matching on my car I even gave it a transmission flush it only clunks when it's warm and when I'm taking a left or a right.
any update? my problem only happens after a decent drive, slow sharp turns, loud knocking, ive seen some people mention rack and pinion issues
@@Avexxeros same, only after a long drive, replaced L/R cv axels. Noise is back clunking sound on slow turns left or right and not when its cold.
@@fitnesspoint2006 You guys need to look in the direction of the viscous coupling. Your symptoms point to that. It's part of the differential.
@@jasonk19xx17 suburus don't have differentials
Wow it’s the same noise on my 2005 Subaru. I have owned this car for 3 years and it started doing this clunking noise since then. Mine does it only under load and turning left for right when at very low speed. The clunking noise makes the whole car shakes as if the transmission was going to fall off. Two mechanic shops said the transmission need to be replace but the car has zero problems moving back and forth in a straight line. No slipping transmission when doing that. CV axles look good but just very old and they said nothing wrong with them. I have totally gave up and I have been driving the car like that since the past 2 years.
If you have a manual transmission, start looking toward the viscous coupling. What you describe sounds like what's failing, and it is very apparent at low-speed turns. I don't think the auto trans in Subarus have this part, and a lot of mechanics just are perplexed by the AWD and manual-only part going bad. Replacing your whole transmission would probably fix the problem, but that would be like replacing your whole engine when all you need is a new alternator. The viscous coupling won't be a cheap repair, but a lot less than a whole transmission. Also, be sure you haven't overlooked something as simple as a broken transmission mount.
Thank you so much for your input. I have a automatic transmission. It does it only when turning either left or right barely when the wheels starting spinning but once it picks up a bit, the loud clicking goes away. It definitely something bad because the the whole cars shakes and the sounds is like the transmission it falling off. Thanks again
@@dair805 I don't want to dive into a guessing game. The only other thing I'd say is that a CV boot doesn't have to be ripped for an axle to fail. They can still wear out and fail with an intact boot. Especially if yours are original; they're nearly 20 years old.
@@jasonk19xx17 I am chatting with a seller who said she got a 2003 Outback with some fracture in metal Cv Axle close to transmission engagement point.
hi @@jasonk19xx17, I have a 2011 Subaru with a manual transmission. After 15 minutes of driving in it, when you turn around you begin to hear something thunder and the car shakes. I would like to take a video and send it to you. I just want to be sure that it is the viscous coupler to do the one-time expense. If possible send me an email address to send you the video please. Thank you.
I replaced mine. I took apart the cv axel and it was the inboard that failed. The three rollers had the centers walard right out.
Link to replacing the cv axle?
I replaced both CV Axles and the clicking sound still happens at low speed when breaking or turning. I don't want to replace them again.
Update: I replaced one CV axle a second time and on that side it still clicks once (loudly) when pressing the brake and slowing down.
@@CJ-if1ry did you figure this out yet? My 07 Camry clicks when slowing down and you can feel a vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedal....CV boots look new, curious what your problem was
@@ashleyduff2393 Hello. I still don't know. Been driving it since then and it's more of a loud clank now over any clicking. It's random when breaking. For the vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedal, it's possible it could be something with your brake rotor/pads possibly. I am not sure.
Do you know what causes the center diff to lock when in reverse in an STI? Some STI's do that while turning in reverse.
Dccd
@@zacwillis3194 Do you know what in specific in the dccd? I've heard faulty wiring of the dccd can cause it.
I got this same issue, just finished replacing both control arms on my 2010 forester. Both axles check out, boots are not ripped or any signs of damage.My clunking noise happens when I make a left turn only.
JZ any solution yet?? Have the same issue with my Mercedes
SAME HERE ON MY 2010 FORESTER XT, PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU FIND A FIX!
Nothing yet other than my forester feels smooth when driving it after replacing the sway bar links, control arms, and axles..lol. But my clicking noise is still there when turning right, I was told it maybe the front differential gears.
Have you replaced front both cv axles?
if its a snapping sound when accelerating and turning at the same time, i would just replace both cv axles, easy enough to do and for both itll probably be about 250-300
Anyone have a clicking issue coming from the rear of a Subaru Legacy. Seems to be driver's side rear and only when turning. Does it maybe 10 to 15 times and stops.
well said not cause the boot it rip its doesn't mean it didn't gave up , well exprance mechanic
There was fluid on the passenger side cv boot closes to the engine in the video would have been alot shorter video
Very informative thank you
So I just bought a 04 impreza rs, and on turns i could hear that clunking noise, after a few days it would do it just on the road with no turning, I've shook the axels and they move quite a bit. Is that a good giveaway that they are bad?
They have a microphone that you place where the noise is coming from, even camera with it, mechanic shop have them.
What is it called ?
@@MrJOHNY347 I have no Idea but I've seen in use, long wire that run from the driver side all the way underneath the car, change to different parts of the car to figure the noise is coming from
I’m here for the same noise like clinck. I recently buy a Subaru wrx 2020 , I checked all under car but nothing!!😮
Wow that car has a lot of rust on the drop links etc, was it up north for a while?
Hi mate, have you fixed this problem or find out where is the noise come from? My car just have the same issue, hopefully, you will give me a hint， Thx a loooot!
SOLVED - I had same sound and managed to fix it. For me it was the metal bracket / brace that joins the lower control arm (LCA) to the body touching the catalytic converter heat shield - the mechanic put them back on the wrong side and the shape mae them slightly touch.... I had the LCA bushings on my forester replaced and immediately as I drove out of the mechanics there was the severe rattle / grinding sound when turning right (only right for me but I am in Australia and the cat convertor is on the left side of car, I think in USA or right hand drive countries it runs on the right side so if this is the issue sound would come when turning left from right side??), more noticeable under load (I did a U-turn and went straight back in. I figured it had to be something other than major component failure as is did not exist when I drove it to the workshop. They checked all the components and screws they worked on but they were all good and it was shop closing time then so I took it home and tested and researched all night. There isn't much room between the 2 parts usually, and when they go back on the wrong way (bracket does still fit the gap fine), there is a slight bend that they touch so it was too close and when turning and accelerating the torque and torsion of the car, the engine, and suspension / steering components must have been just enough to touch and make noise.
For completeness, below a non-exhaustive list of things it could have been (lucky my idea on what it was was correct so didn't need to test the rest).
- loose catalytic converter heat shield or heat shield touching something
- bracket that attaches the exhaust pipe to the CVT
- outer tie rod
- brake dust shield rubbing disc or foreign material between shield and disc.
- inner brake pads
- brake caliper pins
- wheel bearing
- center diff (but being center it shouldn't only happen when turning one way though)
- sway bar bushes
- CV joint.
- wheel nuts not tight
I have this exact issue: 2010 Impreza 2.0
My mechanic says it’s a busted differential. I’ll have him watch this video!
Slow turns cause a clanking noise.
Thhgttrt
ruclips.net/video/RKzvoca4L1c/видео.html Was it the diff. I am in same boat. I guess I should try the cv replacement first. Even though I was told the diff.
I have exactly the same sounds on 2018 STI, but I have it on the back left side
Thanks! I have the same noise from rear cv axle on my bmw.
Good work
It's CV joint problem..
Hub ???????????
You’re lucky if it is not ‘torque binding’.
And under closer inspection hub bearings im no expert nor am I a qualified mechanic but I do have enough of that stuff in my skull called brains 😉 to know it could only be a couple of things and thats the most realistic scenario
I changed my axle and struts and im still getting a knocking sound from that right side area
Same here. I replaced the front right and no improvement at all. The clicking can be heard when turning left, especially uphill. Have you been able to find the culprit? As a side note, that front right axle is the only one that had been previously replaced, by the dealer, some 40 K ago.
@@limerics SOLVED - I had same sound and managed to fix it. For me it was the metal bracket / brace that joins the lower control arm (LCA) to the body touching the catalytic converter heat shield - the mechanic put them back on the wrong side and the shape mae them slightly touch.... I had the LCA bushings on my forester replaced and immediately as I drove out of the mechanics there was the severe rattle / grinding sound when turning right (only right for me but I am in Australia and the cat convertor is on the left side of car, I think in USA or right hand drive countries it runs on the right side so if this is the issue sound would come when turning left from right side??), more noticeable under load (I did a U-turn and went straight back in. I figured it had to be something other than major component failure as is did not exist when I drove it to the workshop. They checked all the components and screws they worked on but they were all good and it was shop closing time then so I took it home and tested and researched all night. There isn't much room between the 2 parts usually, and when they go back on the wrong way (bracket does still fit the gap fine), there is a slight bend that they touch so it was too close and when turning and accelerating the torque and torsion of the car, the engine, and suspension / steering components must have been just enough to touch and make noise.
For completeness, below a non-exhaustive list of things it could have been (lucky my idea on what it was was correct so didn't need to test the rest).
- loose catalytic converter heat shield or heat shield touching something
- bracket that attaches the exhaust pipe to the CVT
- outer tie rod
- brake dust shield rubbing disc or foreign material between shield and disc.
- inner brake pads
- brake caliper pins
- wheel bearing
- center diff (but being center it shouldn't only happen when turning one way though)
- sway bar bushes
- CV joint.
- wheel nuts not tight
@@Benry1984 Thank you for your detailed response. I really appreciate it. I will check to see if any of the points you mentioned apply to my situation.
👍
I have the same noise with my 04 wrx anyone find a explanation?
Could be a power steering issue if not a CV axle problem.
I'm having the same issue for my 2004 subaru impreza wrx wagon
I did both axles and ball bearings but didn't fix the issue. My mechanic said it's the struts are just worn out. Since it has 204k miles and it's still stock
My 2019 wrx does the same thing
My 2010 impreza left front cv joint is a bitch!!!! 😭😭😭😭😭
Driver***
We'd have a better chance of hearing what you're talking about if you stop talking when we're supposed to be listening.
Wishbone bushes
hmmmm🤔
Wishbone causes same symptoms
explain please..... i have 2010 impreza with a single clunk under load at low speed... cvs are new, center diff is new, everything else checks ok..... so what about this wishbone?
@@big4g63t Wishbone is one of the motor mounts
@@ConnorKonecnik replaced it.... still makes same noises