Wow!! This could be the best, most well thought out video on repair I have ever seen. The method of explanation of how to diagnose the electrical system she used is genius! All packed in a 10 minute video! Fantastic work!! Huge👍
Thank you Rachel for this video! I purchased my Farmall last year and wasn't sure if it was charging correctly, so I followed the steps and confirmed that my electrical system is good to go.
I really enjoy how you explain complicated repairs and troubleshooting in a simple to understand video. Glad you went back to wearing a blue shirt to make those of us who work blue collar type jobs proud!
These Rachel Dingell videos aren't just about tractors. They're about how to explain something clearly and understandably. Even if you have no interest in tractor repair, they are very interesting to watch because they're so easy to follow.
Really appreciate you making this video. My father-in-law thought his tractor was having an issue. I know nothing about the 6 volt positive ground system and your video helped immensely. Turns out he just has a gauge that was bad. His tractor is a 1954 Ford 800, Keep up the great work.
Love your videos. I just purchased the Cub encyclopedia. My first job on our family farm was cultivating sweet corn when I was 10 years old. A long time ago. I am currently searching for a Cub to restore. . The one I operated was a 1949. Rachel you are the best . I'm glad to see your generation so involved in farming .
Rachel. Great video. I love your attention to detail. I have a small but significant problem and I'm hoping you or one of your viewers can help. I have a 1948 Plymouth with a 6 volt positive ground system. I'm having problems with the charging system. I have taken the generator completely apart and cleaned "everything" inside. I then performed the "motor" test on it where I grounded the field wire and connected the battery to it and it runs perfectly smooth. So I know everything in it seems right. I've confirmed that all the grounds related to the charging system are clean and well secured. I've even added a dedicated ground wire from the frame to the voltage regulator and directly to the positive side of the battery (ground). I have replaced the voltage regulator on it twice - and bench tested (two of the relays "engage" at around 6.8 add 7.2 volts respectively as I turn up the voltage slowly). The battery voltage in the car at rest is around 6.24 volts. However, when I start the car the voltage does not increase at all - no matter what RPM I increase the engine to. I've tried both analog and digital multi meters. I've removed the generator, wires and voltage regulator, checked and reassembled multiple times. Believe it or not, but I had a bad Ammeter and had to replace it - now the Ammeter works fine, but it only registers a drain on the battery and no charge. So my question is this - Can I disconnect "all" the wires from the generator and start the car to confirm that it is putting out voltage, or will this fry the generator? I 'm guessing that I should be able to start the car and see the voltage rise and then shut off the car quickly if it goes to high. My suspicion is that it will show no voltage. Oh, I forgot to mention that after my rebuild of the generator, I took it to a motor repair place and they hooked it up in the back room and said it was in great condition. However, I failed to ask them how many volts it was putting out - if any. Maybe they just did a motor test and that was how they tested - I'm not sure. Anyway, your video shows everything except how to confirm if the generator is putting out sufficient voltage. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
I see this was four months ago and you may have it charging by now,but just wondering if you polorized the generator,most of the time you have to do that to get them to charge correctly,and sometimes when you just disconnect a wire for any reason breaking the connection they may lose their polarity!
I like your old school way of testing things. No expensive electronic tools needed. A person could trouble shoot their tractor out in the field if necessary. No expensive computer and software needed!
I know a few people that have had issues with the 3 brush generators where someone had swapped out a normal regulator in place of the cutout relay and it causes ALL kinds of unexpected results (usually a burnt armature because of reverse polarity, etc.) It would have been nice if they would have stuck with a single design on those old 6 volt positive ground systems!😉 Great tutorial. Thanks a bunch Rachel!😁👍
Thank you for a very informative video! As a Small Engine Tech,I sometimes work on vintage yard tractors that have a similar setup but I see more with voltage regulators than with cutoffs.Your book looks interesting and plan on purchasing it.
Rachel I like watching your Videos because they are so informative & plus you are very good at the repairs & diagnosis you do & make on those Tractors I don't know where you got your training on how to do the work on the Tractors you where very well taught by great instructors I've watched you in a lot of your Videos & admired everyone of them & I can see you do not see anything wrong with getting some dirt & oil on your hands that is very respectable KUDOS & A BIG THUMBS UP to you keep up the great work I'll be watching I also refer people to watch you that need to do some work on their Tractors & don't have the knowledge to do so
Very good videos! I have a MF 135 so I can learn a lot from your videos! One comment ... please start the tractor only when you are in the seat, and not in front of the wheels!!
You are very good at what you do. Keep up the good work. I have an international cub cadet garden tractor 1974 model 128 and I’m having problems where did charging only 12 1/2 Add three-quarter speed. Mine is a starter generator. I tried your test grounding out the field and the gauge starts to move up. Back in my younger days my dad used to have McCormick Deering tractors. Keep the videos coming you do an excellent job. As ever big Pete.
Hello, this is my first video of your series, I must say you present yourself well and have a respectable knowledge of electrical mechanics. I want to convey the message that early Cubs like mine came with the J-4 Magneto & the simple battery cable removal test is not valid on a magneto tractor. Also, I think you should point out that those tractors have a multiposition charge/headlamp switch & unless the switch knob rotated the charge system function is bypassed.
I knew I was about due for a new battery either way and replaced that, then I was ready to pull off my generator but still had jumper cables close by and test 4 spun up my generator like a top. Testing wires, I have continuity end to end at terminals. The issue has gotta be in the voltage regulator! Great repair video - saved me time and money. Where do I send my tuition for this class?
Racheal...in your video explaining how to rebuild the 6 v generator ("6 v system charging issue") the Farmall 300 has a 3 brush generator and a voltage regulator. In this video you say the 3 brush generator goes with a cutout and the voltage regulator goes with the 2 brush generator. I also have a 3 brush generator and voltage regulator on my 1955 Cub Lo-boy. Just thought you should know. But a very nice presentation none-the-less.
Awesome video! Searching around trying to troubleshoot on my "M", and this the first video I click on, kind of ironic that it is somebody I know and have exchanged conversation with.
Tightening the generator support bolts also can be a more sure way to ground the generator to the frame if you dont ahve another jsumper lead handy to run back to the battery.Thanks for the great tips, I didnt realize there were 2 brush generators on any of the old IH 6 volters but that makes sense.You should do a video about the high-low- system in the farmal tractors and how to set the amperage with the brush movement.
Great video Rachel. I recommend you wear some (stylish) safety glasses to set a good example. Sparks can fly when you are working on the charging system (accidental short).
Of note could be if your tractor has a magneto it's going to run regardless of battery cable disconnect or not. Then usually there is a warning not to run the charging system without a battery. W-9 is one such system.
With the gas tank built into the hood. what kind of tank do you use with the hood off? great video. just picked up your book. have a 1951 cub I am working on.
Rachel, could you make a video on how to take the slack out of the steering for a cub? My linkage is tight but the slack is inside the steering housing. It's so bad that the front wheels shimmy going down the road in high gear! Thanks
My generator has three brushes however the model number of the generator warranted a new regulator not a cut out? The wiring of the system also indicated that i needed a regulator and not a cut out. The tractor doesn’t charge i pulled the positive bat terminal off - engine dies. Jump the feild wire To ground- no activity on the amp gauge. When i turn the lights on i do get a negative amp draw on the guard. The generator does pass the spin test. So i replaced the regulator. However the same issue is happening. I also tested the gen output and got plus 1.5 volts at the a terminal. Check the wiring and it appears to be correct. Also checked the regulator was grounded good and it is. Any help Will be much appreciated Thanks! Matt
Great video! I used your test methods (previously) to chase my problems to the voltage regulator. But I have changed it (multiple times) and they have blown each time. What happens is I install it and it charges fine. Then after the tractor sets for a little while, hour or so, and I go crank it up, it’s no longer charging and the VR is the culprit. Anybody have any idea what is going on? It’s a Farmall Super A. Thanks!
Hi I have a 1952 Ford 8n tractor that was converted to a a 12 volt --- but I think the wiring was done wrong I been watching your videos and think you are awesome --- I was hoping that you can help me -- i have a 4 point ignition switch Is there any way you can send me a wiring diagram to put the wiring in the right place --- Thank you! Anthony
I'd say the engine is getting its ignition from the magneto, possibly an H-4 So the battery being dis-connected would only matter when starting. That cut-out may also be known as a reverse current relay, when the tractor is NOT running, this relay keeps the battery from draining thru the generator. When the tractor IS running and generator is putting out a couple more volts than battery voltage, the contacts close and charging the battery occurs. She is right, two brush generators have a two coil regulator, one is the reverse current, which keeps Bat hood up only when engine is running and Voltage regulator coil maintains proper voltage to the battery. 3 coil regulators not often used on a tractor, but have a current relay so if current being drawn is greater than generator's rated current, a resistance will be placed in field circuit so gen output will be lessened to avoid burning out the generator..
My Massey 65 dies when I remove negative off battery. I have correct generator and regulator. Wires test good. Testing generator now, but right at the end of test 4 you said it could be regulator again. But since I get good voltage 13+ for a minute or two, then motor stalls. Must be regulator.
Some reverse current relays, I think all of them really, have two coils one is a shunt winding of many many turns of lite gage wire and over it is say 5 to 10 turns of a heavier gage wire, that would be the current coil. now when the gen is putting out say 7.5 to 8. volts, the shunt winding which is also a voltage coil will know it, as it is a voltage sensitive coil. it will pull the contacts together and charging commences. The shunt and current coils would be both wound in the same direction. the Current coil's magnetic field assists the voltage coil's magnetic field. Now when the engine slows and gen volts less than battery, current will flow back to the gen but very briefly. the magnetic field of current coil will be bucking that of the voltage coil, not enough magnetic pull to hold the contacts together or overcome spring tension. The heavier wire on the reverse current relay would be rated in amps the same as gen. output would be so if u swapped out a heavier regulator, say a 3 coil job that would be a voltage regulator, overcurrent protection, and reverse current relay. If this type reg is for say a 30 amp gen, but u replace reg.for a 45 amp gen, in essence, you are using a larger fuse than you should, because what happens is 45 amps will cause a heavier pull to open the contacts which reduces the field current so gen's amps won't be exceeded. so your gen will be smoking hot before its current is reduced and that burns me up.
Might I suggest you test the battery first. A faulty battery can cause a false charging system problem. After that check your connections. Connections can be tested easily with a volt meter. No need to disconnect anything. Start with the easy things first. Also while it's OK to disconnect the battery on an old cub don't do that on anything that has a computer. Not trying to be critical just a little info from an old mechanic. Good video.
@@jimbuford4147 yes but disconnecting a battery is very hard on electronics. Think of your battery as a capacitor. It smooths out electrical spikes protecting your electronics. A generator is just an electric motor. Lots of old mowers used the generator as the starter motor. Try it get a small dc motor and spin it. It will produce electricity.
@@daveroberts9921 Thanks. I agree about electronics but wondered if it was potentially dangerous to disconnect a battery while running if there was an alternator as opposed to a genny.
Sorry I didn’t realize that tractors that old had electric fuel shut off valves, which would be the only thing that would make it stop if you disconnect the battery and your charge system is not working, unless it is petrol off cause, but you didn’t specify which it was.
I hope this message will find some help!!! I have a 1958 Farmall Cub. Since I got it I have to jumpstart it to start. It is 6 volt so have had to jump it with My Truck but My Uncle showed Me a “reverse” (not sure if I am saying it right🤣) way to jump it and that has worked. Once it is jumpstarted it runs Amazing but when I cut it off it will not start or turn over at all after running. Basically I have to jumpstart again. Today I bought a new 6v battery and hoped that would fix but when I took negative cable off to test like U said it cut off. I dont wanna keep battery hooked up cuz I dont want to run down battery but trying to see based upon symptoms of U could tell Me whether U think it is the Voltage Regulator or Generator is bad. Just for clarity once it is is started it will run with no problems until I turn off!!! I hope Yall can help and I Love Yalls Page!!!!
I’ve watched so many of your videos and searched through them all and can’t find anything on a wobbly crankshaft pully. From what I can tell, I need to remove the entire front end of the tractor.
I was wondering if you could help me I have a harry Ferguson t30. I am getting juice on both sides if the coil and to the points but no fire to plugs or the coil wire
Hi there, I am an electrical engineer. Excellent troubleshooting and explanation of what each step does!!. Great job.
Wow!! This could be the best, most well thought out video on repair I have ever seen. The method of explanation of how to diagnose the electrical system she used is genius! All packed in a 10 minute video! Fantastic work!! Huge👍
Your knowledge impresses me. So nice to see a young person with so much enthusiasm. Thank you
Thank you Rachel for this video! I purchased my Farmall last year and wasn't sure if it was charging correctly, so I followed the steps and confirmed that my electrical system is good to go.
I really enjoy how you explain complicated repairs and troubleshooting in a simple to understand video. Glad you went back to wearing a blue shirt to make those of us who work blue collar type jobs proud!
These Rachel Dingell videos aren't just about tractors. They're about how to explain something clearly and understandably. Even if you have no interest in tractor repair, they are very interesting to watch because they're so easy to follow.
Really appreciate you making this video. My father-in-law thought his tractor was having an issue. I know nothing about the 6 volt positive ground system and your video helped immensely. Turns out he just has a gauge that was bad. His tractor is a 1954 Ford 800, Keep up the great work.
Thanks Rachel! You just taught this "old dog" a new trick. I love your enthusiasm for tractors. Good video, very informative!
That was the best explanation of how to test this stuff. Ive seen a lot of videos that don't really explain anything.
Love your videos. I just purchased the Cub encyclopedia. My first job on our family farm was cultivating sweet corn when I was 10 years old. A long time ago. I am currently searching for a Cub to restore. . The one I operated was a 1949.
Rachel you are the best . I'm glad to see your generation so involved in farming .
Rachel. Great video. I love your attention to detail. I have a small but significant problem and I'm hoping you or one of your viewers can help. I have a 1948 Plymouth with a 6 volt positive ground system. I'm having problems with the charging system. I have taken the generator completely apart and cleaned "everything" inside. I then performed the "motor" test on it where I grounded the field wire and connected the battery to it and it runs perfectly smooth. So I know everything in it seems right. I've confirmed that all the grounds related to the charging system are clean and well secured. I've even added a dedicated ground wire from the frame to the voltage regulator and directly to the positive side of the battery (ground). I have replaced the voltage regulator on it twice - and bench tested (two of the relays "engage" at around 6.8 add 7.2 volts respectively as I turn up the voltage slowly). The battery voltage in the car at rest is around 6.24 volts. However, when I start the car the voltage does not increase at all - no matter what RPM I increase the engine to. I've tried both analog and digital multi meters. I've removed the generator, wires and voltage regulator, checked and reassembled multiple times. Believe it or not, but I had a bad Ammeter and had to replace it - now the Ammeter works fine, but it only registers a drain on the battery and no charge. So my question is this - Can I disconnect "all" the wires from the generator and start the car to confirm that it is putting out voltage, or will this fry the generator? I 'm guessing that I should be able to start the car and see the voltage rise and then shut off the car quickly if it goes to high. My suspicion is that it will show no voltage. Oh, I forgot to mention that after my rebuild of the generator, I took it to a motor repair place and they hooked it up in the back room and said it was in great condition. However, I failed to ask them how many volts it was putting out - if any. Maybe they just did a motor test and that was how they tested - I'm not sure. Anyway, your video shows everything except how to confirm if the generator is putting out sufficient voltage. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
I see this was four months ago and you may have it charging by now,but just wondering if you polorized the generator,most of the time you have to do that to get them to charge correctly,and sometimes when you just disconnect a wire for any reason breaking the connection they may lose their polarity!
Your video was 5 years ago, but I enjoyed it today and ordered your book... nice to see a lady with grease on her hands.
I like your old school way of testing things. No expensive electronic tools needed. A person could trouble shoot their tractor out in the field if necessary. No expensive computer and software needed!
Thanks Rachel , very informative vid. I have a 1957 Cub not showing a charge. Thanks to you I'm confident that the problem will be solved.
I know a few people that have had issues with the 3 brush generators where someone had swapped out a normal regulator in place of the cutout relay and it causes ALL kinds of unexpected results (usually a burnt armature because of reverse polarity, etc.) It would have been nice if they would have stuck with a single design on those old 6 volt positive ground systems!😉 Great tutorial. Thanks a bunch Rachel!😁👍
im a GM tech but also a farmer,this takes me back years ago,i have changed a few from gen to alt,ood video,keep it up
Never forget to be in NUETRAL before you try to start (tractor can start in gear and Go) excellent video.
Great video. You can tell the quality is better with the lighting and audio. You should have your own show.
I love the way Rachel says, "Tractor (Trector)". I wish I could have met someone like Rachel in my twenties.
Thank you for this. It helped me diagnose my system which was indeed a bad VR 🙂
Thank you for a very informative video! As a Small Engine Tech,I sometimes work on vintage yard tractors that have a similar setup but I see more with voltage regulators than with cutoffs.Your book looks interesting and plan on purchasing it.
Great job in explaining the process your videos are worth there weight in gold.
Rachel I like watching your Videos because they are so informative & plus you are very good at the repairs & diagnosis you do & make on those Tractors I don't know where you got your training on how to do the work on the Tractors you where very well taught by great instructors I've watched you in a lot of your Videos & admired everyone of them & I can see you do not see anything wrong with getting some dirt & oil on your hands that is very respectable KUDOS & A BIG THUMBS UP to you keep up the great work I'll be watching I also refer people to watch you that need to do some work on their Tractors & don't have the knowledge to do so
Very good videos! I have a MF 135 so I can learn a lot from your videos! One comment ... please start the tractor only when you are in the seat, and not in front of the wheels!!
Young lady you are the best..I have watched so many videos on all of my questions and you do a wonderful job. Thanks for your help.
You are very good at what you do. Keep up the good work. I have an international cub cadet garden tractor 1974 model 128 and I’m having problems where did charging only 12 1/2 Add three-quarter speed. Mine is a starter generator. I tried your test grounding out the field and the gauge starts to move up. Back in my younger days my dad used to have McCormick Deering tractors. Keep the videos coming you do an excellent job. As ever big Pete.
Thanks, This is exactly what I needed for my Ferguson.
Hi, I bought the Cub Encyclopedia, it's a great deal, very helpful, very professional.
Thx! This pointed me in the right direction. I dont own a cub but i do own a car with a 6 volt system that drives me nuts!
Nice job Rachel.
Exceptionally well presented production of how to repair old tractors.
Hello, this is my first video of your series, I must say you present yourself well and have a respectable knowledge of electrical mechanics. I want to convey the message that early Cubs like mine came with the J-4 Magneto & the simple battery cable removal test is not valid on a magneto tractor. Also, I think you should point out that those tractors have a multiposition charge/headlamp switch & unless the switch knob rotated the charge system function is bypassed.
Thank you sweet Lady for the great content!
Excellent video again. My daughter teaches shop in high school.
I am glad to see that shop class is still being taught- We need more trade schools!
I knew I was about due for a new battery either way and replaced that, then I was ready to pull off my generator but still had jumper cables close by and test 4 spun up my generator like a top. Testing wires, I have continuity end to end at terminals. The issue has gotta be in the voltage regulator! Great repair video - saved me time and money. Where do I send my tuition for this class?
The video was very helpful but could you do more closeups to show where everything needs to be connected please?
Hi folks. Rachel's good, isn't she? Those fault finding tips would be useful on other vintage vehicles as well as tractors. BobUK.
Good tips! Those three brush things can be finicky.
Racheal...in your video explaining how to rebuild the 6 v generator ("6 v system charging issue") the Farmall 300 has a 3 brush generator and a voltage regulator. In this video you say the 3 brush generator goes with a cutout and the voltage regulator goes with the 2 brush generator. I also have a 3 brush generator and voltage regulator on my 1955 Cub Lo-boy. Just thought you should know. But a very nice presentation none-the-less.
The old 6V generator that uses the cut out number is 1101355 and the one that uses a voltage regulator is 1100501.
Thanks Rachel.... another great vid!
Great video as always
Awesome video! Searching around trying to troubleshoot on my "M", and this the first video I click on, kind of ironic that it is somebody I know and have exchanged conversation with.
Great information & presented great. Solved my problem!!!!
Great info! Thanks so much for the time and effort you put into showing and teaching.
Tightening the generator support bolts also can be a more sure way to ground the generator to the frame if you dont ahve another jsumper lead handy to run back to the battery.Thanks for the great tips, I didnt realize there were 2 brush generators on any of the old IH 6 volters but that makes sense.You should do a video about the high-low- system in the farmal tractors and how to set the amperage with the brush movement.
excellent video - many thanks !!!
excellent presentation with sound methods. thanks you.
Great video 👌 very well explained Thanks!!
Great video Rachel. I recommend you wear some (stylish) safety glasses to set a good example. Sparks can fly when you are working on the charging system (accidental short).
Of note could be if your tractor has a magneto it's going to run regardless of battery cable disconnect or not. Then usually there is a warning not to run the charging system without a battery. W-9 is one such system.
Thanks love the last test cheers from OZ.
Outstanding as always
Your a good speaker.
Damn good video, she really knows what she's talking about !
Good info. Wish you had a Farmall H book coming out.
Good info. Thanks for sharing and I bought your book.
Thank you. Great tutorial.
good job , clear instructions, even men can understand,,,,,,,lol
That good to know
Thank You.
With the gas tank built into the hood. what kind of tank do you use with the hood off? great video. just picked up your book. have a 1951 cub I am working on.
Rachel, could you make a video on how to take the slack out of the steering for a cub? My linkage is tight but the slack is inside the steering housing. It's so bad that the front wheels shimmy going down the road in high gear! Thanks
Great video! Watched the whole thing. But I don't even own a tractor?
Excellent video. Where can you purchase the 6 volt regulator with one coil for a three brush generator?
Two thumbs up
You go girl
Thanks for the video. I especially found the gen test helpful!!
Does anyone know the proper length & width for the gen belt on a Farmall A???
Hi Rachel, great video! But is that tractor positive ground? Maybe you should note that.
Great job
Fantastic Rachel thanks for sharing this video thumps yup :-) :-)
Love the videos!!
God bless you...!
Could you do one on 12 volt on. 560 Farmall
Nice
Good video. You didn't show how to flash the field in case the battery was disconnected. That would also cause the generator to not charge.
Good video! I'm installing a new voltage regulator on a Super A with an old generator. Does it matter which gets polarized first?
Great stuff, Rachel!....my cub has had a 12 volt conversion......any chance you could post a video for testing the charging system on such a rig?
A 12V generator and regular operates on the same principle as the 6V. The same principles apply.
My generator has three brushes however the model number of the generator warranted a new regulator not a cut out? The wiring of the system also indicated that i needed a regulator and not a cut out. The tractor doesn’t charge i pulled the positive bat terminal off - engine dies. Jump the feild wire To ground- no activity on the amp gauge. When i turn the lights on i do get a negative amp draw on the guard. The generator does pass the spin test. So i replaced the regulator. However the same issue is happening. I also tested the gen output and got plus 1.5 volts at the a terminal. Check the wiring and it appears to be correct. Also checked the regulator was grounded good and it is. Any help
Will be much appreciated
Thanks!
Matt
So simple!
nice to see a mechanic these days doing his work without shit hand gloves ! I always need to feel things, oil and surfaces ! greetings from germany
Great video! I used your test methods (previously) to chase my problems to the voltage regulator. But I have changed it (multiple times) and they have blown each time. What happens is I install it and it charges fine. Then after the tractor sets for a little while, hour or so, and I go crank it up, it’s no longer charging and the VR is the culprit. Anybody have any idea what is going on? It’s a Farmall Super A. Thanks!
so adorable
Absolutely
Do u have any videos of taking a farmall h charging system and upgrading it to a 12v ?
I would love this girl to come and hang out with me and go crazy on my old Farmall M.
Thanks! 👍🏻🇺🇸
Well done.
Hi I have a 1952 Ford 8n tractor that was converted to a a 12 volt --- but I think the wiring was done wrong
I been watching your videos and think you are awesome --- I was hoping that you can help me -- i have a 4 point ignition switch
Is there any way you can send me a wiring diagram to put the wiring in the right place ---
Thank you!
Anthony
I'd say the engine is getting its ignition from the magneto, possibly an H-4 So the battery being
dis-connected would only matter when starting. That cut-out may also be known as a reverse
current relay, when the tractor is NOT running, this relay keeps the battery from draining thru
the generator. When the tractor IS running and generator is putting out a couple more volts than
battery voltage, the contacts close and charging the battery occurs.
She is right, two brush generators have a two coil regulator, one is the reverse current,
which keeps Bat hood up only when engine is running and Voltage regulator coil maintains
proper voltage to the battery. 3 coil regulators not often used on a tractor, but have a current
relay so if current being drawn is greater than generator's rated current, a resistance will be
placed in field circuit so gen output will be lessened to avoid burning out the generator..
It has a battery coil on the tractor you can see it in the video. But you are right if it had a magneto it would keep running
My Massey 65 dies when I remove negative off battery. I have correct generator and regulator. Wires test good. Testing generator now, but right at the end of test 4 you said it could be regulator again. But since I get good voltage 13+ for a minute or two, then motor stalls. Must be regulator.
genio y hermosa
Do you work on A/C tractors
Can you explain drop setting of inline fuel pump
Some reverse current relays, I think all of them really, have two coils one is a shunt
winding of many many turns of lite gage wire and over it is say 5 to 10 turns of a
heavier gage wire, that would be the current coil. now when the gen is putting out
say 7.5 to 8. volts, the shunt winding which is also a voltage coil will know it, as it is
a voltage sensitive coil. it will pull the contacts together and charging commences.
The shunt and current coils would be both wound in the same direction. the Current
coil's magnetic field assists the voltage coil's magnetic field. Now when the engine
slows and gen volts less than battery, current will flow back to the gen but very briefly.
the magnetic field of current coil will be bucking that of the voltage coil, not enough
magnetic pull to hold the contacts together or overcome spring tension.
The heavier wire on the reverse current relay would be rated in amps the same as gen.
output would be so if u swapped out a heavier regulator, say a 3 coil job that would be
a voltage regulator, overcurrent protection, and reverse current relay. If this type reg is
for say a 30 amp gen, but u replace reg.for a 45 amp gen, in essence, you are using a larger
fuse than you should, because what happens is 45 amps will cause a heavier pull to
open the contacts which reduces the field current so gen's amps won't be exceeded.
so your gen will be smoking hot before its current is reduced and that burns me up.
Might I suggest you test the battery first. A faulty battery can cause a false charging system problem. After that check your connections. Connections can be tested easily with a volt meter. No need to disconnect anything. Start with the easy things first. Also while it's OK to disconnect the battery on an old cub don't do that on anything that has a computer. Not trying to be critical just a little info from an old mechanic. Good video.
I thought the same thing. Is this true of an alternator as opposed to a generator?
@@jimbuford4147 yes but disconnecting a battery is very hard on electronics. Think of your battery as a capacitor. It smooths out electrical spikes protecting your electronics. A generator is just an electric motor. Lots of old mowers used the generator as the starter motor. Try it get a small dc motor and spin it. It will produce electricity.
@@daveroberts9921 Thanks. I agree about electronics but wondered if it was potentially dangerous to disconnect a battery while running if there was an alternator as opposed to a genny.
@@jimbuford4147 shouldn't hurt anything if it is an old points and condenser unit.
Sorry I didn’t realize that tractors that old had electric fuel shut off valves, which would be the only thing that would make it stop if you disconnect the battery and your charge system is not working, unless it is petrol off cause, but you didn’t specify which it was.
How many antique tractors do you own Rachel?
I hope this message will find some help!!! I have a 1958 Farmall Cub. Since I got it I have to jumpstart it to start. It is 6 volt so have had to jump it with My Truck but My Uncle showed Me a “reverse” (not sure if I am saying it right🤣) way to jump it and that has worked. Once it is jumpstarted it runs Amazing but when I cut it off it will not start or turn over at all after running. Basically I have to jumpstart again. Today I bought a new 6v battery and hoped that would fix but when I took negative cable off to test like U said it cut off. I dont wanna keep battery hooked up cuz I dont want to run down battery but trying to see based upon symptoms of U could tell Me whether U think it is the Voltage Regulator or Generator is bad. Just for clarity once it is is started it will run with no problems until I turn off!!! I hope Yall can help and I Love Yalls Page!!!!
I’ve watched so many of your videos and searched through them all and can’t find anything on a wobbly crankshaft pully. From what I can tell, I need to remove the entire front end of the tractor.
I was wondering if you could help me I have a harry Ferguson t30. I am getting juice on both sides if the coil and to the points but no fire to plugs or the coil wire
Taking the cable off will not stop the tractor if it has a magneto ignition or diesel!
I have a 130 with issues... generator seems to be good. Replaced the regulator and it worked for a while but has now stopped charging. Any ideas?