No dispute that the AGM battery is a very good battery, especially for a car battery. Cranking amps are needed for cars. LiFePO4 Lithium is not intended for cranking amps. Some are now being designed for golf carts though.
1) STOP calling them "Lithium" batteries. They are either Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4, LFP) or Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries. People think they can just use the term "Lithium" and keep adding more confusion to the two chemistries and the different characteristics for each. 2) 15,000 Cycles? NO! Even the best (MOST EXPENSIVE) LiFePO4 cells on the market right now are rated for around 8,000-10,000 cycles. From their advertising of 4,000-15,000 cycles which is obviously deceiving, 4,000 is far more likely before they degrade to around 70-80%. The best cells are not going to be in cheap import batteries. Might they last 15,000 cycles? Possibly, but I would be surprised if they still had 25% of their original capacity remaining rendering them useless long before they reached that many cycles. 3) Again you are wrong, it's other Li-Ion chemistries that should not be discharged below 20% if possible. However you are using LiFePO4 batteries which can can sustain a 100% charge/discharge cycle without damaging the battery and/or causing significant degradation. There is major difference between DAMAGE and DEGRADATION. All batteries are going to degrade even if you don't use them. LiFePO4 is far more robust than other Li-Ion chemistries in this respect. And a LiFePO4 battery will only degrade by one charge/discharge cycle in this case. 4) Actually, depending on how the battery is used and/or abused...a LiFePO4 battery can last and be useful MUCH longer than 10 years if it still has enough capacity to meet your needs in its degraded state. 5) TONS of batteries have Bluetooth in them now days. It has become common and in many cases, a standard feature. 6) Batteries like this can be purchased off Amazon for less than $200 all day long now with Bluetooth. $300 for this battery is not a good deal. There is so much confusion between these two types of "Lithium" batteries because of videos like this in which people read a little and think they should post a video. STOP IT!!!!!
Thank you for the tip. I will add LiFePO4 in the title and description to remove any possible confusion. I do have a link in the description to the battery and the manufacturer if anyone wants to see the actual specs of the battery I used for this video. Amazing how the price keeps going down on these batteries. All the more reason to not buy a lead acid battery.
Here's the link to the battery manufacture that I used in the video. The 100 ah battery has come down even more, with LCD display, it is just $249.00 and if you use my discount code ride20 you can get $20.00 off. That's just $229.00 and it's 5 star rated. One lithium battery is 100 ah, 2 lead acids are 200 ah but only 100 ah usable power. 1 lead acid is $150 but you need two so that is the price I used.
Not with the new LiFePO4 technology. RV lithium batteries are extremely safe due to new technology and built in BMS. It monitors the temperatures and prevents the heat that can cause fires.
You're talking about lithium NMC (nickel, manganese, cobalt) batteries. The type discussed in this video does not suffer from thermal runaway, like NMC batteries can. The reason lithium iron-phosphate batteries are coming down in price has to do with economies of scale and competition, not what you are implying.
My converter charger is not lithium compatible but I have a solar panel on the roof so I don't need to upgrade mine. When I'm plugged in, the lithium battery is always between 80% and 100% charged thanks to the solar panel. When I'm off grid and it is sunny my battery is between 50 and 100% but when the sun is behind the clouds I have dropped to 35% once and had to fire up the generator. If you don't have a solar panel I would recommend using a lithium compatible charger converter to keep the lithium battery charged.
@@riderescue To make this clear, technically I can immediately swap my dead AGM for a lithium and it will charge up to 80% . If I want the last 20 % then I would probably need to change my charger converter? I have an Iota DLS-45/IQ4 AC. Is this a charger that will stop charging a lithium battery at 80%?
@@jeanguillaume4589 From what I can read about your charger, it will charge up to 13.4 volts then maintain the charge. A lithium charger will typically charge to 14.6 then stop. That one volt difference is the 20% difference. I have heard that some people add a lithium charger and charge them directly rather than changing the converter charger.
@@riderescueoh interesting, what do you mean by charging them directly? And thanks so much for taking the time to look up my charger so I could understand better
@@jeanguillaume4589 Look up 14.6 Volt LiFePO4 Smart Battery Charger. There are several at a large price range. The charger can be clamped or bolted on to the battery in the RV or on the bench. Plug in the charger and it goes on charging were the converter charger stops. it can be plugged in when the trailer is on shore power or just the battery only. The higher the amp of the charger the faster the charge.
Here's the link to the battery manufacture that I used in the video. The price has come way down again. The 100 ah battery, with LCD display, is just $249.00 and if you use my discount code ride20 you can get $20.00 off. That's just $229.00 and it's 5 star rated. One lithium battery holds the same amount of usable power as 2 lead acids since you can only drop down to 50% on the lead acid and you can us almost 100% of the lithium. 2 lead acids are now around $150 each. So the lithium now costs less for the same amp hours of usable charge and it weighs 70 pounds less.
Nope, the market is changing, due to economies of scale and increased competition. The only place lead makes sense is if you can't ensure the battery won't be charged when the cells are below freezing.
This is not an EV automobile "motive" (drive motor) battery situation...discharge & charge is much, much slower so little to no risk of thermal runaway (i.e. "fire") from charging in an RV battery situation. (The "BMS" keeps changing temps down). The other way lithium batteries can have "thermal runaway"/"fire") is major physical damage breeching multiple cells (crashes, etc.)....my opinion...less risk of that in an RV application. My last point...we are talking about a 100 Ah RV battery here vs. a typical 3,500 Ah EV auto battery pack (the "big fire after thermal runaway/crash" type battery!). ;-)
You're thinking about lithium NMC (nickel, manganese, cobalt), which can suffer from thermal runaway. The battery chemistry discussed in this video does not have that problem.
My AGM battery in my Vette is 5 years old and still going strong. It’s always on a battery maintainer.
No dispute that the AGM battery is a very good battery, especially for a car battery. Cranking amps are needed for cars. LiFePO4 Lithium is not intended for cranking amps. Some are now being designed for golf carts though.
Does the bms prevent use and charging at low temps. If not charging when cold would ruin your lifepo battery
1) STOP calling them "Lithium" batteries. They are either Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4, LFP) or Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries. People think they can just use the term "Lithium" and keep adding more confusion to the two chemistries and the different characteristics for each. 2) 15,000 Cycles? NO! Even the best (MOST EXPENSIVE) LiFePO4 cells on the market right now are rated for around 8,000-10,000 cycles. From their advertising of 4,000-15,000 cycles which is obviously deceiving, 4,000 is far more likely before they degrade to around 70-80%. The best cells are not going to be in cheap import batteries. Might they last 15,000 cycles? Possibly, but I would be surprised if they still had 25% of their original capacity remaining rendering them useless long before they reached that many cycles. 3) Again you are wrong, it's other Li-Ion chemistries that should not be discharged below 20% if possible. However you are using LiFePO4 batteries which can can sustain a 100% charge/discharge cycle without damaging the battery and/or causing significant degradation. There is major difference between DAMAGE and DEGRADATION. All batteries are going to degrade even if you don't use them. LiFePO4 is far more robust than other Li-Ion chemistries in this respect. And a LiFePO4 battery will only degrade by one charge/discharge cycle in this case. 4) Actually, depending on how the battery is used and/or abused...a LiFePO4 battery can last and be useful MUCH longer than 10 years if it still has enough capacity to meet your needs in its degraded state. 5) TONS of batteries have Bluetooth in them now days. It has become common and in many cases, a standard feature. 6) Batteries like this can be purchased off Amazon for less than $200 all day long now with Bluetooth. $300 for this battery is not a good deal.
There is so much confusion between these two types of "Lithium" batteries because of videos like this in which people read a little and think they should post a video. STOP IT!!!!!
Thank you for the tip. I will add LiFePO4 in the title and description to remove any possible confusion. I do have a link in the description to the battery and the manufacturer if anyone wants to see the actual specs of the battery I used for this video. Amazing how the price keeps going down on these batteries. All the more reason to not buy a lead acid battery.
Which 100ah lithium battery did you get for under $300?
Here's the link to the battery manufacture that I used in the video. The 100 ah battery has come down even more, with LCD display, it is just $249.00 and if you use my discount code ride20 you can get $20.00 off. That's just $229.00 and it's 5 star rated. One lithium battery is 100 ah, 2 lead acids are 200 ah but only 100 ah usable power. 1 lead acid is $150 but you need two so that is the price I used.
There are quite a few of them on the market, these days, in the $225 - $250 price range. Li-Time and Power Queen are both excellent choices.
Its really kinda hard to believe how many fires lithium seems to have vs lead acid batteries! And if a lithium is selling cheap it should be a clue!
Not with the new LiFePO4 technology. RV lithium batteries are extremely safe due to new technology and built in BMS. It monitors the temperatures and prevents the heat that can cause fires.
You're talking about lithium NMC (nickel, manganese, cobalt) batteries. The type discussed in this video does not suffer from thermal runaway, like NMC batteries can. The reason lithium iron-phosphate batteries are coming down in price has to do with economies of scale and competition, not what you are implying.
Did you replace the converter charger to a lithium compatible in the Reflection?
My converter charger is not lithium compatible but I have a solar panel on the roof so I don't need to upgrade mine. When I'm plugged in, the lithium battery is always between 80% and 100% charged thanks to the solar panel. When I'm off grid and it is sunny my battery is between 50 and 100% but when the sun is behind the clouds I have dropped to 35% once and had to fire up the generator. If you don't have a solar panel I would recommend using a lithium compatible charger converter to keep the lithium battery charged.
@@riderescue To make this clear, technically I can immediately swap my dead AGM for a lithium and it will charge up to 80% . If I want the last 20 % then I would probably need to change my charger converter? I have an Iota DLS-45/IQ4 AC. Is this a charger that will stop charging a lithium battery at 80%?
@@jeanguillaume4589 From what I can read about your charger, it will charge up to 13.4 volts then maintain the charge. A lithium charger will typically charge to 14.6 then stop. That one volt difference is the 20% difference. I have heard that some people add a lithium charger and charge them directly rather than changing the converter charger.
@@riderescueoh interesting, what do you mean by charging them directly? And thanks so much for taking the time to look up my charger so I could understand better
@@jeanguillaume4589 Look up 14.6 Volt LiFePO4 Smart Battery Charger. There are several at a large price range. The charger can be clamped or bolted on to the battery in the RV or on the bench. Plug in the charger and it goes on charging were the converter charger stops. it can be plugged in when the trailer is on shore power or just the battery only. The higher the amp of the charger the faster the charge.
never seen comparable batteries priced the same , maybe overpriced lead v poor quality lithium.
Here's the link to the battery manufacture that I used in the video. The price has come way down again. The 100 ah battery, with LCD display, is just $249.00 and if you use my discount code ride20 you can get $20.00 off. That's just $229.00 and it's 5 star rated. One lithium battery holds the same amount of usable power as 2 lead acids since you can only drop down to 50% on the lead acid and you can us almost 100% of the lithium. 2 lead acids are now around $150 each. So the lithium now costs less for the same amp hours of usable charge and it weighs 70 pounds less.
Nope, the market is changing, due to economies of scale and increased competition. The only place lead makes sense is if you can't ensure the battery won't be charged when the cells are below freezing.
All good until the lithium fire ignite.
This is not an EV automobile "motive" (drive motor) battery situation...discharge & charge is much, much slower so little to no risk of thermal runaway (i.e. "fire") from charging in an RV battery situation. (The "BMS" keeps changing temps down). The other way lithium batteries can have "thermal runaway"/"fire") is major physical damage breeching multiple cells (crashes, etc.)....my opinion...less risk of that in an RV application. My last point...we are talking about a 100 Ah RV battery here vs. a typical 3,500 Ah EV auto battery pack (the "big fire after thermal runaway/crash" type battery!). ;-)
The new technology of the LiFePO4 RV lithium batteries are extremely safe. The built in BMS regulates the temperatures to keep them safe.
You're thinking about lithium NMC (nickel, manganese, cobalt), which can suffer from thermal runaway. The battery chemistry discussed in this video does not have that problem.