when cutting through threaded rods I always use a sacrificial nut to run overbthe cut cleaned end. This has saved me on many occasions where a tiny shard of metalnremains in the thread. I was taught this by an old engineer many moons ago.
What I do when I cut off a bolt or threaded rod, I always put a nut on the thread, then cut the bolt or rod and round the end. So when you remove the nut it removes any burr that still might be left and makes putting the nut back on much easier. Old toolmaker trick.
lol. Everyone has a suggestion for eric. I hope he doesn't get upset and stop making these videos. This was one of my favorites. I like "creative" fabricating work like this. Your videos are greatly appreciated.
Looking just at the nuts in the rods and the threading and imagining all the work you have to do in between the shots, the actual shots, the editing and planning makes me appreciate your hard work a little bit more. Great job Eric, love the editing!
I did the same thing to my 74 Mercury Comet GT back in the day.I had installed a 351 Windsor in place of the original 302. Comets are tail light anyway, so the extra weight is a plus. Just be sure that you install a ground cable from the engine block to the body that is equal in size to the ground wire from frame to battery. I connected mine from the frame to one of the starter mounting bolts to ensure that the starter has the best ground possible.
Thanks so much for the help I’m about to do this on my 90s foxbody mustang. I have watched so many vids on this battery relocation and yours has to be the best explained walk threw.
Me too. If you're concerned about weight transfer, why put it at just one corner of the car? I liked the comment about putting it against the seat; out of the way, in the middle; but on reflection, and trying to visualize my old '80 Fairmont, I'm not sure there would be enough room...and it would make it a bitch to lift the battery out, regardless.
Been following along on the car one tip for doing chassis grounds use riv-nuts. I use the splined ones makes a super tight ground connection and you don't have to find a access hole for a wrench on the back side. Cheers keep up the good work and content 👍
Eric & Brian; You have my upvote for all the Fairmont episodes! It's taken a long time to get there, and now that we are, I'm loving seeing the step-by-step build of cool project car. Keep up all the good work, guys!
Cool to see you use several of the same products and install them the same way. I'm no pro, im just winging it but it makes feel good that I'm the same level as someone as skilled as you are.
Great video! You dont need a vent port if youre using an Optima battery, since they're sealed already. The vent portion is for vented batteries. And since you now have a vent in it you should put a silica packet in there to prevent moisture build up. You can find these packets in shoe boxes and other electronics boxes
few things id do different: 1> use a STAINLESS bolt for the earth connection and weld it in for security , will be corrosion resitant and lower electrical resistance (especially over time) 2> put DOMED nuts on the top cover of the box, that way you wont catch (and cause damage to) your hands, luggage or hostages on the end of the threaded rods. 3> install foam under the battery box, especially as it wasnt 100% level, will stop any rattles
I would have cut the threaded rod after it was where you wanted it in the trunk. Replace sharpie with cut-off wheel... Just me. Thanks for the vid man. Keep wrenching!
eric.. i know its already installed. but i usually pull the positive battery cable thru heater hose so it has a much thicker insulation around it. i also use one of the various remote shut off switches with the moroso push rod kit.. but i use an additional morse /pto type cable to give me remote control from the front seat area.
Just a tip Eric, if I have to run a nut down a lot of all thread. I'll put 2 nuts on the top of the all thread as jam nuts. Then hold the nut I'm running down with a wrench and put an air/electric wrench on jam nuts. It also saves me a ton of time if I have to do something similar with a nylock.
I’ve been watching your vids for a while they are very clear and informative. Now I see this, you have a cool foxbody square light Ford, now I have finally subscribed!!
Eric. Great video. I do have a few suggestions if you don't mind. First, I would have cut the box down to size. It appears to be a few inches too tall. Second, I would have attached the ground wire directly to the top of one of the threaded rods where they attach to the hold down bracket. If unsatisfied with the contact between the bottom of the rod and the body, I would have installed a short jumper to the ground bolt you attatched to the "frame". When I installed my hitch on my 1981 Fairmont Futura Wagon (which succeeded my 1979 Fairmont wagon), the kit came with bolts that dropped down from existing holes in the frame, near the one you were dealing with. In order to insert them into the box section, the kit came with a special wire that was wrapped around the threads of the bolt with about 10" of an extra wire "tail". The instructions were for me to feed the wire tail through a large hole into the frame (possibly the one you used) to a smaller hole not too far from the larger hole. When the tail passed over the smaller hole, I grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and was then able to pull the bolt (threads first) through the large hole into the frame and then back out through the smaller hole that the head would not fit through. I then unwound the wire from the threads and was able to attach the hitch to the frame via that bolt that was now hanging down through the smaller hole. I kept this special wire tool for years until I realized that I could make one just by wrapping any stiff wire along the threads of any bolt. Kind of an easy way to get a bolt into a box section. Finally, whenever I cut a threaded rod, I put a nut on it right before the cut so that when I've completed the cut and cleaned up the end, I can back the nut off the rod over the new cut and it will fix any imperfections making the next nut easy to install. Looking forward to your next video. Please, keep up the great work!
+EricTheCarGuy Ahh. With an optima I don't think it would be much issue anyway. If someone used a conventional battery it may be a bigger concern though.
Hello Eric, when I have done similar jobs involving long studs, I wind the nut on the stud approx 1', that nut then sits on the trunk floor and gives me an in of stud underneath the trunk floor to wind the other nut on. Your vidjas rock and so do you sir, have an awesome 2017.
You do like to do things the hard way, don't you? If you put the inside nut on from the bottom and spun it up two inches you could then have put them through the holes and have them sit there holding them selves up while you went underneath and put the bottom nuts on as far as they needed to go and then not spent an hour spinning the inside nuts down as they would already be most of the way there. But if you had a tape measure you could have measured the height of the box added the thickness of two nuts and washers and cut the threaded bar to length. Also locking two nuts together on the rod would allow you to cut it without damaging the thread and if ever you cut a threaded bar or bolt you put a nut on first to clean the waste out of the thread, it's easier to undo a nut the clean a thread than try and run a die down it. Just a couple of tips or ideas the edge of that box should have been on the inside of the fold it will be safer without a sharp edge on the corner. Putting some silicon sealer down on the trunk bed before fitting the box will keep moisture from building up under it and rusting out your trunk. Rather than feeding the cable and vent tube through the rubber filler boot I would have put a small hole through the boot for the cable and tube separately and put some silicon around the holes to strengthen them.
I really doubt that any water will get up behind the take, if he ever drives this in the rain, judging by those tires its a dry weather only type of car.
Jack S . There is moisture in the air even on a dry day. And because a battery is a big lump of heavy metals and water it will get cold and pull the moisture out of the air similar to a cold bottle you take out of a fridge. So it doesn't matter if it's never taken out in the rain.
Sir, a great install. I would've used more lock-washer, like everywhere a nut had to be used. I especially liked how you created the "ground connection", underneath the rail, on the vehicle's rear-end. Great, and very informative, video. Thank you Sir.
One neat thing about having the battery somewhere other than other the hood is that the battery lasts longer. This becomes worse if everything under the hood is cramped and extra hot. If Nissan used this system on the 1985-1988 Maxima, it might have solved 20%-25% of the problems those cars were prone to. I used to Have a Saturn ION which already used a battery in the trunk. The battery lasted 5 years, and load tests said it was marginal. When batteries are under the hood in Florida, having a marginal or dead battery after 2 1/2 years is common. Some Mazda Miatas got 9 years or more from the trunk-mounted battery.
Eric this is such good idea I'm going to do this with my 1995 Rover 820si I've had the car 14 years this year 1917 didn't know this modification could be done, I have wanted to put a bigger battery in, and I can't fit a bigger one under the bonnet I would also like to fit a deep cycle leisure battery on the opposite side in the boot, for amateur radio use, the bigger the better, and fit a split charger unit, and if you are thinking an old car like mine isn't worth spending money on its not, but it's worth it to me and that's all that matters, as I will never get rid of it, I'm recording this video and putting it on a memory stick for future reference...
Hey Eric, Why did you not use lock washers or nylon lock nuts to secure the battery box and battery? In my experience between Murphy's Law and vehicle vibration, those things could come loose over time with standard nuts and flat washers.
When you put the threaded bar in the first time I thought you'd put a nut on about an inch or two on one side then slide that through the hole... but you did it the long way. Then did it AGAIN. You're more patient than me for sure lmao
How much does the battery and box weigh? Is it really enough to make a difference if you're installing a turbo with all the required piping etc. in the front?
cool kit. to reduce metal chatter and less work, no need to cut the trunk rug. just drill through carpet and install box. the rug is harmless and between box and trunk. i would have chosen that option you mentioned. nicer finish in my opinion instead of seeing the cut rug. also, im not a fan of exposing ground to external elements but i understand your goal of a chassis ground
why aren't there rubber washers for the threaded rod portion that go thru your trunk floor? I'd be concerned that water could come through if the nuts loosened
EricTheCarGuy I really hope you're kidding about no breaker or fusible links. You'll need two one about six inches maximum from the positive terminal and one under the hood . You could skip the one under the hood but not the one near the battery. You'll need to find the maximum cranking amps draw from your motor and add another twenty to get the right size breakers, I'm guessing two hundred and fifty amps should cover it.
Anom Amos you are 80% correct the fuse rating should be tide to the cable maximum capability and length too but the main is cable capacity an 1/0 cable is from 200-300 amps depending on the quality and number of strands. The cable Eric used i guess its 2awg or a 0 gauge and those handle from 150-200amps
Hi Eric, Why did you cut the carpet like that? Wouldnt it have been a bit cleaner to just make some small incisions for the two threaded rods, and let the bottom tray sit over the carpet?
Eric.I burned up two radiator fans because I used the frame for the ground.I had to run a ground cable to the fan from the trunk to solve this problem.The frame is not a good conductor of electricity.
Yes.The company I bought the fan from says the most often reason for a fan burning out is the frame being used as a ground.I ran #4 welding wire to the fan and have had no problems since.The directions that came with the fan states that a ground wire must be run from the battery to the fan.My car is a 47 Ford coupe with a 454 Chev motor.The battery is under the package tray in the trunk.
Yea, fans, or any high amp circuit for that matter, needs a good ground. I'll be sure to check things out when I do an install. Thanks for the comments and your input.
I think it also would have worked to tap threads in the undercarriage support. That way you can simply thread a bolt through the negative battery cable into the body and you're done. no messing around with nuts, bolts and washers (which I am sure will also be perfectly fine). Could have also welded a nut on the body. Great video!!
Hey Eric, thanks for the video. Do I need to use a circuit breaker for the long positive wire going through the car? Do you use a distribution block at the front of the car so you don't have to run accessories and new things you put into the car that require power, all the way to the back where the battery is?
No. To be honest, I hope one day to redo the body on this car. At that time I'll worry about it. Till then, I won't be driving this car in the winter, or much rain for that matter.
Fish oil is great after you have painted the car. pour it in the wheel wells in the boot, down the door wells , in the sills etc. Mate ot a 1971 Holden ute that an old bloke had put fish oil in the tray and wheel wells etc and not a drop of rust.
The washer going down the all thread made me laugh out loud. That is why I LOVE your channel. BTW I just got a '04 Mustang GT I will be playing with. This is the third Mustang I have owned.
Bolt the cover down. With the cut off wheel, cut slightly above the nuts. When you unthread them, they will clean the ends for you. This is the fastest way to do it.
...but still leave the ends with burrs. Considering it's the trunk, I might have done the same he did. Less chance of catching something on expensive luggage or whatnot.
8:00 Deez nuts lol but quick question why put the battery by the fuel cap door? Wouldn’t it be better to put it on the opposite side also safer or is it easier to run the wire by the gas tank I’m guessing ?
Hey Eric. How has your yellow top held up? Looking to get a new battery soon and the yellow top I had on a Prius has lasted quite a while. But I see so many negative reviews on them...is it mainly the red tops that suck?
Eric, how do you feel about double nutting the all thread on the bottom of the car, or spot welding the nuts to the all thread... I'd worry the vibration would loosen the assembly and fall off letting the battery free to roam the interior of the trunk?
Is there any need to put some sort of caulking or sealer where the battery bracket holes go from the trunk to the bottom of the car? Just wondering about the chance of moisture getting up there.
Hello, Eric. I have placed starter batteries in trunks for all the reasons you state. What I found was that connecting the negative battery terminal to the frame wasn't always reliable. The engine grounds had to be cleaned and the ground straps inspected. In spite of all that, sometimes my engines were hard to crank. So, when I mounted the battery in a trunk, I also ran a ground (usually welding cable) to the engine, with ground strap to the frame at the engine compartment; along with the positive cable run. The positive cable was then branched off to the fuse block for instruments and lights. Yes, the extra cost of the copper cable was a factor, but reliability improved. Do you fuse the positive cable in case it should short to the frame? I do like your attention to details.
You may have answered this already but why does a battery need to be vented? I have a first generation Miata and I was curious if I could use an Optima Battery ?
Sure you could've done things a lot better or differently but this works. your videos especially this one for some reason are so satisfying to watch. plus i noticed how you would cut the video of doing one thing out and using it for another video. like removing the gas tank. 1.more detailed videos 2. more efficient 3.more videos 4.maaaybe more money.
Eric, why didn't you use nylon lock nuts or at least also lock washers for the bottom nuts that hold down the bolts which hold the whole battery box right above the tank? Don't you think vibrations may also losen these fasteners while you're driving? If so, the battery box may become dislodged and jump all over your trunk, and I'm sure that's not what you want, right? :)
Shouldn't there be a fuse at the battery (maybe in the box) such that if that positive ever grounds on the body somewhere that the fuse blows rather than a fire or other catastrophe?
Hello Eric, I have done it recently, but one problem faced, there is a little bit difficult to start the motor, seem like the battery not full enough, but I have checked that both battery and starter motor is in good condition. Is it necessary to add more ground wire to the body or else? thanks for help.
your going to hate that batery stay with that mile of all thread. if i may make a suggestion. if you notch/ elingate the holes in the ends of the stay so that they are open ended. you won have to back the nuts all the way off to get the stay out. id also suggesy poking holes in the rubber grommet for the cable and vent tube to run through rather than trough the same hole as the filler neck to avoid possible vibration rubbing and pinching. and finally it might be worth grabbing some rubber u channel the line the top and bottom of the side of the box to maybe seal the box and insulate from possible vibration noise. these are just things i would consider for such an install with the components shown. as always love the work and apreciate the free entertainment
+EricTheCarGuy when cutting down the threaded rods or bolts, one thing found is before cutting them, if you install a nut before the cut mark after you make the cut you can run the nut off and it will clean the bur off for you
Hi good day eric I would like to know what will be the advantages and disadvantages putting the battery at the trunk cause some mechanic told me that will give a lacks of power to the engine because of a long run of positive wire ? Thank you i hope you understand im not good in english
Is there anything you can put on that to reduce corrosion? I can just see road grime and de-icer just trashing the ground post you just made. Or maybe a zinc plate as a sacrificial anode (if that even works for this application, please correct me if I'm on the wrong track)
I'm not done yet. I may want to hook other things to the post while doing the electrical system. After that's done I'll think about sealing it up. Probably by painting the area where it contacts the body. Also, do you really think I'm going to take my 575hp car that I spent a year building out on salty roads in the winter?
Hi eric when you fitting your engine mate and another question how many years did it take you to be able to learn enough tackle any job? Cheers mate im a apprentice from england on my third year il be fully qualified in a few months😃
Eric TCG can you answer why a special charger is needed to charge AGM batteries even though they a charged in car by the same source that charges all types of batteries without issue? So why is a special charger needed?
If it were me I'd put a dab of cavity wax on the holes for the threaded rods (as paint would be chipped off as soon as you install the rod) and smear the ground area on the frame too. Great video Eric! Thanks!
How often do you have to replace your Philips screwdrivers? These days, the ones I buy are always made of cheapo metal and get chewed up faster than I'd like.
if I'm not mistaken, that optima battery is a sealed AGM battery. u don't have to vent those, and u can mount them on they're side or even upside down if need be. that being said, if u use a regular car battery, make sure it's vented to the outside... the fumes they let off can kill u
An Optima, AGM or any other sealed all position VRLA battery are vented, do outgas and do require a vent or a ventilated environment, particularly if enclosed in a battery box. The outgassing is usually hydrogen gas which can become a fire/explosion hazard if allowed to accumulate. The battery box in the kit Eric installed in the video has a vent and the vent tube is routed to discharge outside of the vehicle envelope.
Hey EricTheCarGuy really enjoy your videos a lot and very information. I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.7l hemi. For some reason when I put the truck in cruise control it hesitant and skips like it's trying to stay consistent but when I take it off cruise control everything is fine and smooth. I'm not have any kind of jerking when the truck is out of cruise control and even when in 4wd it's fine. Just trying to get an idea why this is happening to see if it's a vacuum leak or is it my tranny starting to have problems. If you can give me some kind of insight I would greatly appreciate it.... This problem only radiates when engaged in cruise control! I do have a two codes of p0440 and a p0420 at the moment.
Know this is an old post but I'm currently doing this battery installation. What battery terminals are they? The link for them goes to a dead end. Thanks !!
That whole rear axle looks so sick, with all the new shiny parts! I always feel, that it's such a shame that all those shiny beautiful parts are hidden. Cars need something like sidewindows on pc cases imo. 😃
Hello , can I ask you , what is the benefit of the washer ? I have another question , my car is LandRover Lr3 and I want to put another second battery in the engine compartment and connect with Maine battery , can you give me something to start ! What tools , equipment , some sort of devices? Thank you
A washer spreads the clamping force over a wider surface area. What do you intend to use the second battery for? You need to start with two identical batteries connected together in parallel with a battery isolator switch
clive ramsbotty ok now I understand the washer function 👍، I want the second battery to put small refrigerator and to plug my computer also if my first battery is weak I can start with the second one and for some light if I'm outside , so is it must be both of them identical !
Okay it sounds like you'd be better off getting a deep cycle battery. You keep the existing battery for running the engine and fit a new battery to power your fridge, computer etc... The new battery can be charged by your altenator or by a connection to the mains when you're parked up.
When you run the nuts up and down the threaded rod, put a fiber brush in your cordless drill and lightly press the brush against the nut to run it lickity-split.
nice work... for future reference, leave a nut on the threaded rod when you cut it.... then you just back the nut off over the cut end and it "chases the threads" for you....
Appreciate you actually explaining why you're doing what, instead of leaving the viewers guessing.
when cutting through threaded rods I always use a sacrificial nut to run overbthe cut cleaned end. This has saved me on many occasions where a tiny shard of metalnremains in the thread. I was taught this by an old engineer many moons ago.
What I do when I cut off a bolt or threaded rod, I always put a nut on the thread, then cut the bolt or rod and round the end. So when you remove the nut it removes any burr that still might be left and makes putting the nut back on much easier. Old toolmaker trick.
I know it's not the done thing but if you angle it down when grinding it keeps the thread clean
lol. Everyone has a suggestion for eric. I hope he doesn't get upset and stop making these videos. This was one of my favorites. I like "creative" fabricating work like this. Your videos are greatly appreciated.
Looking just at the nuts in the rods and the threading and imagining all the work you have to do in between the shots, the actual shots, the editing and planning makes me appreciate your hard work a little bit more. Great job Eric, love the editing!
I watched this entire series already, but i'm looking into doing this to my car now so I rewatched it. Love the Fairmont series.
I did the same thing to my 74 Mercury Comet GT back in the day.I had installed a 351 Windsor in place of the original 302. Comets are tail light anyway, so the extra weight is a plus. Just be sure that you install a ground cable from the engine block to the body that is equal in size to the ground wire from frame to battery. I connected mine from the frame to one of the starter mounting bolts to ensure that the starter has the best ground possible.
Thanks so much for the help I’m about to do this on my 90s foxbody mustang. I have watched so many vids on this battery relocation and yours has to be the best explained walk threw.
No doubt this mans blinker fluid is never a drop below full.
I love etcg videos have watched every Friday for the last couple years also etcg1 fan
Jared Mccoy me too, high 5
Me 3. ;)
StevexNYCperformance #white peoples videos matter
no im the number one fam.
Id put nyloc or loctite the bottom ones
krzysiekv12 id weld em on. bugger droping the tank because the bottom nut spins of changing the battery
Aint got a welder yet
krzysiekv12 jb weld and or adhesive
Battery hold-downs corrode. They're rarely welded because then you're screwed (ha) when you need to replace them
jeez people he could just double nut it or thread lock...
I'm still chuckling at weight transfer, another good video, cheers.
Me too. If you're concerned about weight transfer, why put it at just one corner of the car? I liked the comment about putting it against the seat; out of the way, in the middle; but on reflection, and trying to visualize my old '80 Fairmont, I'm not sure there would be enough room...and it would make it a bitch to lift the battery out, regardless.
Been following along on the car one tip for doing chassis grounds use riv-nuts. I use the splined ones makes a super tight ground connection and you don't have to find a access hole for a wrench on the back side. Cheers keep up the good work and content 👍
Eric & Brian;
You have my upvote for all the Fairmont episodes! It's taken a long time to get there, and now that we are, I'm loving seeing the step-by-step build of cool project car. Keep up all the good work, guys!
Cool to see you use several of the same products and install them the same way. I'm no pro, im just winging it but it makes feel good that I'm the same level as someone as skilled as you are.
Great video! You dont need a vent port if youre using an Optima battery, since they're sealed already. The vent portion is for vented batteries. And since you now have a vent in it you should put a silica packet in there to prevent moisture build up. You can find these packets in shoe boxes and other electronics boxes
Excellent video as always! Should write a quote on that battery box; "I'll never let go, Jack. I promise."
You're just the right kind of weird. I like it.
few things id do different:
1> use a STAINLESS bolt for the earth connection and weld it in for security , will be corrosion resitant and lower electrical resistance (especially over time)
2> put DOMED nuts on the top cover of the box, that way you wont catch (and cause damage to) your hands, luggage or hostages on the end of the threaded rods.
3> install foam under the battery box, especially as it wasnt 100% level, will stop any rattles
Brian was clearly fascinated by these washers
SpotterJacob who wasn’t?! 😝😂😂
I would have cut the threaded rod after it was where you wanted it in the trunk. Replace sharpie with cut-off wheel... Just me. Thanks for the vid man. Keep wrenching!
I haven't watched you in a while. Its good to see you working on a lift.
Good job, when I did mine I didn't think of running the positive inside the vehicle.
Thank you. Finally someone did this plain, straight forward, and easy to understand
eric.. i know its already installed. but i usually pull the positive battery cable thru heater hose so it has a much thicker insulation around it. i also use one of the various remote shut off switches with the moroso push rod kit.. but i use an additional morse /pto type cable to give me remote control from the front seat area.
Thanks for this video Eric! I did this exact same install in my ‘87 Fox Body Notch! 🦊
Just a tip Eric, if I have to run a nut down a lot of all thread. I'll put 2 nuts on the top of the all thread as jam nuts. Then hold the nut I'm running down with a wrench and put an air/electric wrench on jam nuts. It also saves me a ton of time if I have to do something similar with a nylock.
I’ve been watching your vids for a while they are very clear and informative. Now I see this, you have a cool foxbody square light Ford, now I have finally subscribed!!
Eric. Great video. I do have a few suggestions if you don't mind. First, I would have cut the box down to size. It appears to be a few inches too tall. Second, I would have attached the ground wire directly to the top of one of the threaded rods where they attach to the hold down bracket. If unsatisfied with the contact between the bottom of the rod and the body, I would have installed a short jumper to the ground bolt you attatched to the "frame". When I installed my hitch on my 1981 Fairmont Futura Wagon (which succeeded my 1979 Fairmont wagon), the kit came with bolts that dropped down from existing holes in the frame, near the one you were dealing with. In order to insert them into the box section, the kit came with a special wire that was wrapped around the threads of the bolt with about 10" of an extra wire "tail". The instructions were for me to feed the wire tail through a large hole into the frame (possibly the one you used) to a smaller hole not too far from the larger hole. When the tail passed over the smaller hole, I grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and was then able to pull the bolt (threads first) through the large hole into the frame and then back out through the smaller hole that the head would not fit through. I then unwound the wire from the threads and was able to attach the hitch to the frame via that bolt that was now hanging down through the smaller hole. I kept this special wire tool for years until I realized that I could make one just by wrapping any stiff wire along the threads of any bolt. Kind of an easy way to get a bolt into a box section. Finally, whenever I cut a threaded rod, I put a nut on it right before the cut so that when I've completed the cut and cleaned up the end, I can back the nut off the rod over the new cut and it will fix any imperfections making the next nut easy to install. Looking forward to your next video. Please, keep up the great work!
Is it the best idea to put a vent that could potentially expel corrosive gasses, right next to the filler neck?
Just asking, Love the channel.
I'm not concerned. I'll likely be running a fuel cell.
+EricTheCarGuy Ahh. With an optima I don't think it would be much issue anyway. If someone used a conventional battery it may be a bigger concern though.
Hello Eric, when I have done similar jobs involving long studs, I wind the nut on the stud approx 1', that nut then sits on the trunk floor and gives me an in of stud underneath the trunk floor to wind the other nut on. Your vidjas rock and so do you sir, have an awesome 2017.
Well done Eric. 👍👍
You do like to do things the hard way, don't you?
If you put the inside nut on from the bottom and spun it up two inches you could then have put them through the holes and have them sit there holding them selves up while you went underneath and put the bottom nuts on as far as they needed to go and then not spent an hour spinning the inside nuts down as they would already be most of the way there. But if you had a tape measure you could have measured the height of the box added the thickness of two nuts and washers and cut the threaded bar to length. Also locking two nuts together on the rod would allow you to cut it without damaging the thread and if ever you cut a threaded bar or bolt you put a nut on first to clean the waste out of the thread, it's easier to undo a nut the clean a thread than try and run a die down it.
Just a couple of tips or ideas the edge of that box should have been on the inside of the fold it will be safer without a sharp edge on the corner.
Putting some silicon sealer down on the trunk bed before fitting the box will keep moisture from building up under it and rusting out your trunk.
Rather than feeding the cable and vent tube through the rubber filler boot I would have put a small hole through the boot for the cable and tube separately and put some silicon around the holes to strengthen them.
Anom Amos yup, all wrong in this one.
I was thinking exactly what Anon Amos has written about the threaded bar, loctite and silicone sealant also required.
Anom Amos this is for comments, not letters.
I really doubt that any water will get up behind the take, if he ever drives this in the rain, judging by those tires its a dry weather only type of car.
Jack S . There is moisture in the air even on a dry day. And because a battery is a big lump of heavy metals and water it will get cold and pull the moisture out of the air similar to a cold bottle you take out of a fridge. So it doesn't matter if it's never taken out in the rain.
Tnx Eric, I hope you have not forgot to install kill switch! Very crucial.
Doublesided tape what about a fuse on the positive cable, close to the terminal?
Sure, also very important. I think it is better to upgrade the engine fuse box but i'm sure Eric has a plan for it.
eric, quick tip, whenever you need to secure something with threads on it in a vice. just put on the nuts and clamp the piece of thread on the nuts
Sir, a great install. I would've used more lock-washer, like everywhere a nut had to be used. I especially liked how you created the "ground connection", underneath the rail, on the vehicle's rear-end.
Great, and very informative, video. Thank you Sir.
Great Video Eric. The Fairmont and Vigor are my favourites in your fleet. Next I would be tempted to disguise the battery box as a crate of beer. :)
They're my favorites too. Although I really love my truck. I like your thoughts on altering it's appearance.
EricTheCarGuy Thank You :) the finish looks good anyway but I figured a disguise would go with the sleeper look.
One neat thing about having the battery somewhere other than other the hood is that the battery lasts longer. This becomes worse if everything under the hood is cramped and extra hot.
If Nissan used this system on the 1985-1988 Maxima, it might have solved 20%-25% of the problems those cars were prone to.
I used to Have a Saturn ION which already used a battery in the trunk. The battery lasted 5 years, and load tests said it was marginal. When batteries are under the hood in Florida, having a marginal or dead battery after 2 1/2 years is common.
Some Mazda Miatas got 9 years or more from the trunk-mounted battery.
Eric this is such good idea I'm going to do this with my 1995 Rover 820si I've had the car 14 years this year 1917 didn't know this modification could be done, I have wanted to put a bigger battery in, and I can't fit a bigger one under the bonnet I would also like to fit a deep cycle leisure battery on the opposite side in the boot, for amateur radio use, the bigger the better, and fit a split charger unit, and if you are thinking an old car like mine isn't worth spending money on its not, but it's worth it to me and that's all that matters, as I will never get rid of it, I'm recording this video and putting it on a memory stick for future reference...
Nice yellow-top Eric! I have one that has lasted over ten years. Expensive but very cost effective.
Hey Eric, Why did you not use lock washers or nylon lock nuts to secure the battery box and battery? In my experience between Murphy's Law and vehicle vibration, those things could come loose over time with standard nuts and flat washers.
This is sweet! Thanks for Sharing! I will be moving my battery to the Trunk of my second gen camaro.
When you put the threaded bar in the first time I thought you'd put a nut on about an inch or two on one side then slide that through the hole... but you did it the long way. Then did it AGAIN. You're more patient than me for sure lmao
Very clean work Eric. Nice job.
Is another advantage for this relocation is longer battery longevity since the battery won't be located in the hot engine compartment?
that washer sliding down the rod made me happy
That washer made my day
hey Eric, adding a dab of dielectric grease to the ground bolt is added protection against corrosion.
How much does the battery and box weigh? Is it really enough to make a difference if you're installing a turbo with all the required piping etc. in the front?
cool kit. to reduce metal chatter and less work, no need to cut the trunk rug. just drill through carpet and install box. the rug is harmless and between box and trunk. i would have chosen that option you mentioned. nicer finish in my opinion instead of seeing the cut rug. also, im not a fan of exposing ground to external elements but i understand your goal of a chassis ground
why aren't there rubber washers for the threaded rod portion that go thru your trunk floor? I'd be concerned that water could come through if the nuts loosened
hey Eric dont forget to install inline fuse with maximum in case of the battery shorted the positive dont melt and short you whole car
That's what the solenoid is for. I'll also think I have a main fuse in the fuse box.
EricTheCarGuy that's what selonide will do if the battery is mount under the hood but now the battery is in the back what will protect the wire
EricTheCarGuy I really hope you're kidding about no breaker or fusible links. You'll need two one about six inches maximum from the positive terminal and one under the hood . You could skip the one under the hood but not the one near the battery. You'll need to find the maximum cranking amps draw from your motor and add another twenty to get the right size breakers, I'm guessing two hundred and fifty amps should cover it.
Anom Amos you are 80% correct the fuse rating should be tide to the cable maximum capability and length too but the main is cable capacity an 1/0 cable is from 200-300 amps depending on the quality and number of strands.
The cable Eric used i guess its 2awg or a 0 gauge and those handle from 150-200amps
Oh and its 11 inches not 6 from the battery
Electric cables running close to fuel lines could be dangerous right?
Bravo! Yellow top. Not cheap but they do last.
Hi Eric,
Why did you cut the carpet like that? Wouldnt it have been a bit cleaner to just make some small incisions for the two threaded rods, and let the bottom tray sit over the carpet?
Adam Robarts then how do you lift the carpet to get at the spare tyre?
Fair point! didnt think of that
Eric.I burned up two radiator fans because I used the frame for the ground.I had to run a ground cable to the fan from the trunk to solve this problem.The frame is not a good conductor of electricity.
Did you clean the connection to bare metal like I did?
Yes.The company I bought the fan from says the most often reason for a fan burning out is the frame being used as a ground.I ran #4 welding wire to the fan and have had no problems since.The directions that came with the fan states that a ground wire must be run from the battery to the fan.My car is a 47 Ford coupe with a 454 Chev motor.The battery is under the package tray in the trunk.
Yea, fans, or any high amp circuit for that matter, needs a good ground. I'll be sure to check things out when I do an install. Thanks for the comments and your input.
I'm sure you already thought of this but I would replace the top lid retaining nuts with wing nuts. For obvious reasons.
I think it also would have worked to tap threads in the undercarriage support. That way you can simply thread a bolt through the negative battery cable into the body and you're done. no messing around with nuts, bolts and washers (which I am sure will also be perfectly fine). Could have also welded a nut on the body. Great video!!
Hey Eric, thanks for the video. Do I need to use a circuit breaker for the long positive wire going through the car? Do you use a distribution block at the front of the car so you don't have to run accessories and new things you put into the car that require power, all the way to the back where the battery is?
Did you treat the bare metal where you drilled with anything to stop rust?
No. To be honest, I hope one day to redo the body on this car. At that time I'll worry about it. Till then, I won't be driving this car in the winter, or much rain for that matter.
Fish oil is great after you have painted the car. pour it in the wheel wells in the boot, down the door wells , in the sills etc. Mate ot a 1971 Holden ute that an old bloke had put fish oil in the tray and wheel wells etc and not a drop of rust.
The washer going down the all thread made me laugh out loud. That is why I LOVE your channel. BTW I just got a '04 Mustang GT I will be playing with. This is the third Mustang I have owned.
Nice!
Bolt the cover down. With the cut off wheel, cut slightly above the nuts. When you unthread them, they will clean the ends for you. This is the fastest way to do it.
...but still leave the ends with burrs. Considering it's the trunk, I might have done the same he did. Less chance of catching something on expensive luggage or whatnot.
8:00 Deez nuts lol but quick question why put the battery by the fuel cap door? Wouldn’t it be better to put it on the opposite side also safer or is it easier to run the wire by the gas tank I’m guessing ?
Hey Eric. How has your yellow top held up? Looking to get a new battery soon and the yellow top I had on a Prius has lasted quite a while. But I see so many negative reviews on them...is it mainly the red tops that suck?
Eric, how do you feel about double nutting the all thread on the bottom of the car, or spot welding the nuts to the all thread... I'd worry the vibration would loosen the assembly and fall off letting the battery free to roam the interior of the trunk?
I seriously doubt it's going to come loose. Remember I installed a lock washer. Thanks for your comment.
Is there any need to put some sort of caulking or sealer where the battery bracket holes go from the trunk to the bottom of the car? Just wondering about the chance of moisture getting up there.
Trunks are vented to the outside anyway. Moisture will get in no matter what.
Oh ok. Nice work. I hope you show the running of the positive cable. That would be interesting.
I will. Thanks for the comments.
Hello, Eric. I have placed starter batteries in trunks for all the reasons you state. What I found was that connecting the negative battery terminal to the frame wasn't always reliable. The engine grounds had to be cleaned and the ground straps inspected. In spite of all that, sometimes my engines were hard to crank. So, when I mounted the battery in a trunk, I also ran a ground (usually welding cable) to the engine, with ground strap to the frame at the engine compartment; along with the positive cable run. The positive cable was then branched off to the fuse block for instruments and lights. Yes, the extra cost of the copper cable was a factor, but reliability improved. Do you fuse the positive cable in case it should short to the frame? I do like your attention to details.
You may have answered this already but why does a battery need to be vented? I have a first generation Miata and I was curious if I could use an Optima Battery ?
Do u solder the power wire u ran to front or is that too hard becuase the thickness? Or is the a big special crimp u should use? Lmk asap
Sure you could've done things a lot better or differently but this works. your videos especially this one for some reason are so satisfying to watch. plus i noticed how you would cut the video of doing one thing out and using it for another video. like removing the gas tank. 1.more detailed videos 2. more efficient 3.more videos 4.maaaybe more money.
Eric, why didn't you use nylon lock nuts or at least also lock washers for the bottom nuts that hold down the bolts which hold the whole battery box right above the tank? Don't you think vibrations may also losen these fasteners while you're driving? If so, the battery box may become dislodged and jump all over your trunk, and I'm sure that's not what you want, right? :)
now how would you run the fuse box to the battery? would you run it with the positive or run a separate cable?
Shouldn't there be a fuse at the battery (maybe in the box) such that if that positive ever grounds on the body somewhere that the fuse blows rather than a fire or other catastrophe?
What AWG was your positive cable? Is this the same cable as welding battery copper cable wire (600 volts)
HF has a nice set of cushion clamps that you can use to hold the wires.
Hello Eric, I have done it recently, but one problem faced, there is a little bit difficult to start the motor, seem like the battery not full enough, but I have checked that both battery and starter motor is in good condition. Is it necessary to add more ground wire to the body or else? thanks for help.
Batteries should always be put with the shortest side forward, This will prevent battery damage, Less water movement?
your going to hate that batery stay with that mile of all thread. if i may make a suggestion. if you notch/ elingate the holes in the ends of the stay so that they are open ended. you won have to back the nuts all the way off to get the stay out.
id also suggesy poking holes in the rubber grommet for the cable and vent tube to run through rather than trough the same hole as the filler neck to avoid possible vibration rubbing and pinching.
and finally it might be worth grabbing some rubber u channel the line the top and bottom of the side of the box to maybe seal the box and insulate from possible vibration noise. these are just things i would consider for such an install with the components shown. as always love the work and apreciate the free entertainment
+EricTheCarGuy when cutting down the threaded rods or bolts, one thing found is before cutting them, if you install a nut before the cut mark after you make the cut you can run the nut off and it will clean the bur off for you
Hi good day eric
I would like to know what will be the advantages and disadvantages putting the battery at the trunk cause some mechanic told me that will give a lacks of power to the engine because of a long run of positive wire ? Thank you i hope you understand im not good in english
How did you water proof your trunk with running cables and gas vent - there is a gasket but there is no way that this is seal...?
Unless water can defy gravity I think I'm good.
My relocation kit doesn't seem to have a vent tube or hole for one it needs to vent outside? Is it illegal or unsafe not to have one?
Is there anything you can put on that to reduce corrosion? I can just see road grime and de-icer just trashing the ground post you just made. Or maybe a zinc plate as a sacrificial anode (if that even works for this application, please correct me if I'm on the wrong track)
I'm not done yet. I may want to hook other things to the post while doing the electrical system. After that's done I'll think about sealing it up. Probably by painting the area where it contacts the body. Also, do you really think I'm going to take my 575hp car that I spent a year building out on salty roads in the winter?
I didn't think that statement through, my apologies. I'm too used to my brother and cousin who would be crazy enough to hoon about in the winter.
No worries. Thanks for the comments.
Awsome video as usual. Thanks again. I didnt know they had kits to move the battery to the back.
Nutsert would have make your life easier for the ground connector.
I'm always looking forward to your video keep up the good work
Hi eric when you fitting your engine mate and another question how many years did it take you to be able to learn enough tackle any job? Cheers mate im a apprentice from england on my third year il be fully qualified in a few months😃
Eric CarGuy, can a car electrical system run from the alternator after it has been started and the battery is dead?
Eric TCG can you answer why a special charger is needed to charge AGM batteries even though they a charged in car by the same source that charges all types of batteries without issue? So why is a special charger needed?
Are you not gonna take some paint on thoose holes you drilled? :)
If it were me I'd put a dab of cavity wax on the holes for the threaded rods (as paint would be chipped off as soon as you install the rod) and smear the ground area on the frame too. Great video Eric! Thanks!
Maybe some rubber feet on the button of the batter tray? And rubber washers on the rods between the trunk floor?
Great video as always!
Thanks!
Shawn Briggs why does your comment say 13hrs ago? It shows that the video was uploaded 25 minutes ago
+Sayuj Raphael RUclips is broken! proved 😜
Sayuj Raphael I have early access because I am a premium member of his website
How often do you have to replace your Philips screwdrivers? These days, the ones I buy are always made of cheapo metal and get chewed up faster than I'd like.
I use Wiha bit sets and they last a long time. They are made in Germany. Half the other companies I have seen have relocated to China.
if I'm not mistaken, that optima battery is a sealed AGM battery. u don't have to vent those, and u can mount them on they're side or even upside down if need be. that being said, if u use a regular car battery, make sure it's vented to the outside... the fumes they let off can kill u
An Optima, AGM or any other sealed all position VRLA battery are vented, do outgas and do require a vent or a ventilated environment, particularly if enclosed in a battery box.
The outgassing is usually hydrogen gas which can become a fire/explosion hazard if allowed to accumulate.
The battery box in the kit Eric installed in the video has a vent and the vent tube is routed to discharge outside of the vehicle envelope.
That's true, but the kit came with a vent so I used it. Thanks for the comment.
Hey EricTheCarGuy really enjoy your videos a lot and very information. I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.7l hemi. For some reason when I put the truck in cruise control it hesitant and skips like it's trying to stay consistent but when I take it off cruise control everything is fine and smooth. I'm not have any kind of jerking when the truck is out of cruise control and even when in 4wd it's fine. Just trying to get an idea why this is happening to see if it's a vacuum leak or is it my tranny starting to have problems. If you can give me some kind of insight I would greatly appreciate it....
This problem only radiates when engaged in cruise control!
I do have a two codes of p0440 and a p0420 at the moment.
Is a lock washer even still effective when one side is against other rotatable washers rather than the opposing surface?
My thought as well. Surely he had some shorter bolts somewhere.
Know this is an old post but I'm currently doing this battery installation. What battery terminals are they? The link for them goes to a dead end. Thanks !!
Good work Steady hand Bryan....
vetterfellow .............why dots.......?......
That whole rear axle looks so sick, with all the new shiny parts!
I always feel, that it's such a shame that all those shiny beautiful parts are hidden. Cars need something like sidewindows on pc cases imo. 😃
Not done yet. In later episodes I completely redo the entire rear suspension. The new set up is killer.
Hello , can I ask you , what is the benefit of the washer ? I have another question , my car is LandRover Lr3 and I want to put another second battery in the engine compartment and connect with Maine battery , can you give me something to start ! What tools , equipment , some sort of devices? Thank you
A washer spreads the clamping force over a wider surface area. What do you intend to use the second battery for? You need to start with two identical batteries connected together in parallel with a battery isolator switch
clive ramsbotty ok now I understand the washer function 👍، I want the second battery to put small refrigerator and to plug my computer also if my first battery is weak I can start with the second one and for some light if I'm outside , so is it must be both of them identical !
Okay it sounds like you'd be better off getting a deep cycle battery. You keep the existing battery for running the engine and fit a new battery to power your fridge, computer etc... The new battery can be charged by your altenator or by a connection to the mains when you're parked up.
clive ramsbotty yes 👌 I want it like that , so from where I can get a deep cycle battery !
Any RV or marine supply. They'll also have the gadget to keep both batteries isolated from one another, but charged from the alternator
When you run the nuts up and down the threaded rod, put a fiber brush in your cordless drill and lightly press the brush against the nut to run it lickity-split.
would a switch be put on the ground on the box be a good thing or the positive
nice work... for future reference, leave a nut on the threaded rod when you cut it.... then you just back the nut off over the cut end and it "chases the threads" for you....