Bought a '72 Dart 318 for my oldest son and I to work on in the mid 2000's. He got to drive it his last year of high school and even though it was a rust bucket originally from the coast town of Florence Oregon, it was still the coolest car on campus.
Thank you for sharing. My first car in 1978 was a 1969 Dart Custom, with a 318. I always dreamt of hot rodding it, but never did. So when I retire, its my plan to find another one and have my dream car. Until then, I will watch your channel and imagine my car one day.. thank you so much your car is amazing.. 👍
I had a 70 dart in late 80 s whole time I had that car I wanted 67-69 finally I got my 68, love it ! I don't care if it rattles and shakes it's a blast!
Great attention to detail. A few things I've learned when relocating a battery to the trunk; yep, use a four post disconnect switch, they have two large posts for the power and two small posts. Run the power trigger wire for the MSD to the small posts. This way, when the switch gets turned off, It shuts off the MSD and kills the spark. For the ground, I weld a 2"x2"x1/2" thick steel plate to the trunk floor with a hole drilled and tapped for a 1/2" bolt for the ground wire to bolt to. I also weld another one to a frame rail in the engine bay and run a ground cable from it to the engine block. The final detail is where the hold down studs for the battery go through the trunk floor, I use 2"x2"x.125" thick plates as washers. This is to make sure the battery won't rip free if I'm ever in a serious accident.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Your 2 post switch is fine - not sure of brand quality and amp rating though. . if your engine still runs after you turn the switch off, then you run your HOT cable from the alternator to the same side as the HOT cable going from BATTERY to the Switch. I had to do this with my factory Ford 3 wire alternator and now with my after market 1 wire alternator. I know it sounds ass backwards but that's just the way it is. I called Powermaster and Tuff Stuff and they told me the same. Just make sure you put the correct size inline fuse for it. My 1 wire alternator is a 140 amp so I bolted this strait off my Flaming River switch then bolted the alternator cable to the fuse www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/littelfuse-4149/lighting---electrical-16777/fuses-16615/fuses-11492/da78d762ece6/littelfuse-150-amp-mega-fuse/meg150bp/5841887 By the way, it sounded like you said something about the ground as a cut off. That's against the rules - cut off switch has to be on the positive side to be legal.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop here i made a quick video what mine looks like. Left #1 welding cable goes to Battery. Black 4 gauge welding cable with 150 amp fuse goes to alternator all time HOT. Right #1 welding cable goes to starter solenoid. Green 4 gauge with fuse goes to an after market fuse block in car. I just finished rewiring the whole car by the way ground up inside and out. Here's my video. If it helps, then cool. If not - then I tried. ruclips.net/video/nTwUsTyvenw/видео.html Good luck, wiring can suck for sure.
Would lend one recommendation: circuit protection. A 150amp or 200amp Optifuse resettable breaker installed no more than 18" from the battery would protect your car from potential fire in case of an accident or just the wire rubbing against metal. Also, might reconsider relocating the main power switch being mounted on the bumper it's directly in a very high impact area. Not trying to be a hater, just wanting to help. You have an awesome ride and wish you the best.
I put a 16L or 20L AGM SLA under my passengers seat of my car back in 2003....made a harness out if 4ga stranded.....bolt the NEG to the seat slider rail attach and run the POS up to the bottom of the engine bay fuse box and attach directly to the main POS in there....use an Anderson connector to make it easily removable....works great....great for weight distro and rarely have anybody in the back seat so the area under the seat taken up by the battery isnt missed. Everybody said 'it'll never work!!!' works great....since 2003 in 2 different cars.
Just an idea, look up Adel Clamps. Might be a solution when you are ready to secure your battery cable inside the car. I use them to secure aircraft wiring and RF coax for aircraft equipment installations. Clean install by the way.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop I bought the same Taylor box you have like 15 years ago. I bought it without all the cheap cables they offer. I run #1 Flex-A-Prene Heavy Duty welding cable for all the battery cables. Yes its all black insulation but who cares. I just took red electrical tape and taped the ends to know which are hot. The welding cable insulation is more flexible, resist cuts and tears and resist chemicals and oils better than your cable. I have had the same cables for 15 years and still perfect. No its not cheap but neither was your engine or your car... I run Hot cable from battery to my Flaming River cutoff switch (don't skimp out and buy a cheap switch) then fused strait off the switch with a 175amp Littlefuse www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/blister-pack-4152/lighting---electrical-16777/fuses-16615/fuses-11492/8db92bcc5690/littelfuse-blister-pack-175-amp-mega-fuse/meg175bp/4414578 to starter solenoid then solenoid to starter (70 Cougar) . I run these post terminals and you should too. So much easier to remove cables and your not messing up the clamp force of the post terminal. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/super-start-4986/battery-accessories-16452/battery-accessories-16508/battery-terminal---universal-17657/393e97768e9a/super-start-battery-terminal/08507/4742239/2003/dodge/ram-1500?pos=1 I run one ground from battery to rear frame and a ground from battery (big copper ring lugs stacked on one another) to the back of cylinder head - then front of engine to the chassis close to starter solenoid on fender apron. I also run an 8 gauge ground cable from the rear frame where it is grounded from battery to a 5/16 bolt I welded with some flat washers to the trans tunnel. I have a 10 gauge ground wire from that to another 5/16 bolt behind gauge cluster. Makes it easy to ground the gauges , tach, MSD (bolted to trans tunnel) like your about to do. Our old cars can never have enough grounds with our old metal panels. Oh a tip for mounting your MSD to the trans tunnel. I drilled the 4 holes slightly smaller than the 4 mounting shock pads. Then I tapped them for the solid studded side of the shock mounts, hand tightened them to floor then bolted MSD to those with their screws. No welding and no helper required this way. It will not vibrate loose either.
Good decision to put the battery in the trunk. If you can't remove the weight put the weight in place that will help you. I can see a set of wheelie bars in your future. Nice clean install ! Cheers !
Wow , can't believe how clean and rust free your floor is and I'm shocked that your not doing the cage yourself! 😐 I have seen you weld aluminum, I know you got what it takes! Oh well thanks for the update and switch looks great no where to put that thing since lid is shaped like it is. Looking forward to next video!
I know I know. Couple of factors added up to get it done rather than do it. Didn’t want to buy a “roll bar kit” they do t for good ie they make them fit cars so big gaps between door and headliner, don’t have the right dies to bend it myself, or a mandrill bender and can’t do at my work. My garage is so small it just wasn’t gunna work and I need to be done so I don’t get hung up by not having it. In the end I just need a bigger garage.
Love the content, keep it going man I'd like to see it in the 10s 1/4mile. So many little things to do to make it faster and NHRA legal. I see you use the Caltrac system(I think), I see a lot of people use the spring sliders on the rear of their leaf springs, I wonder why you're not using them. I like that you pay attention to details and try to keep everything clean and professional looking. I also like the fact you keep it NA, no nitrous, no fuel injection, no turbos, no supercharger, just good old Mopar power with a carb. It's just good old school hot rodding as it should be. I really enjoy your videos.
Hey thanks for watching bro! Yes full cal tracks but I don’t have the sliders I just use there hangers at the back. At the time I bought the whole package I heard the sliders weren’t as street friendly as the hangers and I don’t have a welder at my place. May add them later on tho. Yes good old Mopar power! Thanks again for watching. More to come soon
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop I watch a few different people that race on RUclips. One is a guy and his kids with S-10 turbo SBCs, DRC racing. I saw a video on how the Caltracs works and the sliders help a lot. Also how to set it up so there's no rear dip on acceleration, I forgot what it's called. years ago they thought it was good for the rear of the car to drop, they called it weight transfer but now it's a bad thing. I ain't no expert, not at all, not close just a fan of drag racing, but I think you have enough power to go faster. Love watching the process of discovery and incremental steps to go faster and faster.
Right on man. It’s a progress. Lots of stuff to do and time and money are always a factor. Don’t worry the car isn’t finished by along shot. I achieved all my goals last yea and have new goals for next race season. Thanks for watching
Nice install. I want to do that sometime to my ‘69 Barracuda fastback that has the fold down door into the trunk, but I didn’t want to have to make a tin firewall and lose that door feature. So the rule is, if the battery is mounted in a box, you don’t have to have a metal firewall? That’s great!
Funny story. Been following you for at least a few years on IG. I had a 72 Dart 360/ 340 heads. Nice car. Saw the car and started following immediately ! Now have a 70 Nova 454. Your videos on RUclips started popping up on my feed. Immediately recognized the GTS and said to myself I know that fuckin car ! Subscribed. Cool channel. Enjoyed several videos already ! That car is awesome dude ! And the channel content is awesome ! Figured I’d share that little bit of history. Lol take care
Okay, thanks. I guess that's part of building a car, trial and hopefully not too much error! haha. Hope you don't mind if I keep asking? I have been learning a lot and getting good ideas from your channel and your great car!
All the wiring clean up and you are leaving the solenoid where it is? Now is the perfect time to move it to the back of the fenderwell or onto the firewall where it's hidden out of the way. Beautiful ride!
Ya I did plan on relocating it. Made a brackets and everything. No room on fire wall and was put back further on fender but it made it look to clustered with the line and master cylinder there.
Even with the two post disconnect switch run the alternator wire to the positive side of the switch. Where the battery wire runs to that pole. I also have my MSD wire running to a kill switch on the dash which is a simple toggle switch. Just in case and anti theft
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop no worries. Just look up the Morroso disconnect switch on Summit and they have a link to instructions on the two poster. NHRA approved and easy peazy. Been running this for years with no worries
Question, you have a 60s car & lm doing the same thing right now with my 67 galaxie, lve done everything so far but l noticed you don't have or l didn't see it but l have a voltage regulator on fire wall my alternator wasn't internally regulated, l just got a internal regulated 1, l have a single wire distributor but it was easy to install and setup, so do you know how or what to do with the regular?? Its on the firewall next to the starter solenoid so do l by pass it remove or??? I have a SHIT ton of wires going in & out lights ect. thank you very much for your time l really appreciate it, got to get ready for the season ya know😁 anyway love your vids l learned 1 thing & had to switch my converter as well it really helped of the line it was revving up & then just fell flat on its face, changed jets in carb changed timing different plugs you name it so l seen your vid & tried it & excellent l went from a 34 to a 38 so thanks for that, the converter was slipping the guy said it was burning up even with the big trans cooler, well gotta go keep up the good stuff 👍👍l hope we never meet on the track😂
Hey yes at the time of this I have voltage regulator on my fire wall. Ford and Mopar are differnt systems tho but if you have internal regulator you can by pass the one on fire wall. I’m doing mine right now. 👍🏻 lol good timing. Thanks for watching !
I would have put the on/off switch under the license plate and just spaced the plate out. When at the track remove your tag. At one time NRA mandated the battery cable could not be in the car, did they change this?
Looks great & sounds great as always.👍 It's always nice get'n new parts. I should be buying parts for my Dart but i've been buying recording equipment so i can get my new guitar instrumentals on RUclips. Cars n Guitars both cost a lot, hahaha. But worth it.
Battery box looks nice!!! Whats the build up on your 360 motor??? Are your wheel welds stock or minney tubed? Call John at caltracks and ask him about them front springs to transfer more weight to the rear tires and more lift in the front end. Good luck??
A couple things to think about. 1) Keep this switch, but move it into the trunk and use it as a battery kill that no one will see. 2) Move your starter solenoid inside the car. Our old cars are candy to car thieves. They have a lot of worth and are way too simple to rob them. EVERYTHING you can do to make it more difficult for them means more time you have to catch them red handed. Oh, also,,, you didn't need to drill through the trunk and frame. Everything in our cars is welded together, so any bracket in your trunk would do.
Kill switch ha to be visible on outside of car for NHRA rules. Yes I know the Frame is welded to body so ground is everywhere but frame is thickest and best place for the ground. Good idea to tho make it harder to steal by thieves. Thanks for watching.
Those headers are nice . Are those TTI’s? I’d love to have a set cause I’m tired of burning my wires on my Hedmans in the drivers rear on my 67 B’cuda. Also did you have to modify or dent the header at all if you’re running stock steering and suspension. Sorry I can’t remember your set up but I’m sure I watched a video at One point. I’m minintubbed using stock wheel openings and massaged the forward portion of the wheel opening 1.5” before body and paint was done obviously. I got tired of burning up electric fuel pumps and used them all until I finally got a submersible stealth 340 fuel pump With a return….now zero fuel pump issues but I am running a safety fuel inertia shut off switch in case someone rear ends me since my fuel cell is in the trunk and halfway outside the trunk as I just cut the trunk panel out and framed it to fit a 20 gal fuel cell. The only thing I really need to do is build a firewall. For now I’m just using an upholstered panel I fabricated. I don’t have a shut off switch at the bumper but I do have one in my glove box where my fuse panel resides. You Would probably love my car. My engine is nowhere as bad ass as yours but it has a healthy 500 HP at the flywheel / 366 cubes, four speed, 8-3/4 sure grip/ 4:11 gears on a 30” tire. I’m not dragging it but It’s caged as well. Took 12 years to build….I just don’t have the time and money to fix broken parts from running it hard. I definitely want to put better headers and exhaust with cutouts. I really love the way you did your side pipes. I just dumped mine before the rear axle with flowmaster 40’s……they sound great but drone at idle. Such a fun car to drive though…..turns heads everywhere with hemi orange paint and custom stripes, blacked super stock hood with a hemi scoop.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Very cool. I will. I need to clean up my typing as my auto correct Must like to cuss….geez. Done….haha. Do you post on FABO? I haven’t been on there for years but it was a really good A body site for Mopar gear heads. There was a guy on there that painted his car similar to yours ….it was a Lexus color I believe. I really love the color of your machine….it’s just a top notch car in every way.
Found an interesting article that talked about mounting a relay, in the trunk, between the battery and the positive cable to the starter. This ensures that the positive cable is hot only when cranking. Made sense as you can imagine what would happen if somehow that positive cable developed a short, especially being mounted inside the car. Gonna give it a shot in mine when I mount a kill switch.
I never asked and forgot to, What did you do about the Gas Tank ,That is to say did you use lager 3/8 line Replacement pick up> and run 3/8ths line? or add a sump to tank
Haven’t touched it. Just ram the 3/8 line straight to the original 5/16 pick up. I was looking for a good newer pick with a 3/8 but haven’t found one. Any recommendations?
Nice install. I've noticed for awhile you have a aluminum cross flow radiator, what kind do you have and where did you get it? I'm upgrading my A Body Dart, there are so many out there hard to know what's good and works. yours seems to do both. Thanks.
Do you have to run the starter thru the switch? Rules state: switch must turn the car OFF. So just the POWER wire has to go thru it. But the alternator still needs to be on the battery side of the switch. Two wires from front to back. Smaller, like 4 gauge. What do you think?
Not exactly sure what your after there. Yes car should shut off. I will prob run the alternator on the battery side to make sure it kills the car when switched
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop starter draws a lot of current. But, its not energized till the solenoid pulls in. You would need a heavy duty switch for 4-500 amps. (Cranking current) If the purpose of the switch is to turn off power circuits for safety- (electric fuel pump) Why run the direct line to the starter thru the switch?
L S sound great and etc I get it I'm 53 yrs old had all kinds trucks and cars , you just can't beat the lines and square corners! Something different also +
Hi Joey Very nice for a fairly stock motor but I think you car can get into the 10’s with a nice lunati cam in the 626 lift with a 323 duration 110 lube really hits hard your just about there I know this cam and works really really well we were running 10.86 in a 69 Camera with a 377 very close and you maybe lighter so I think great numbers for ya Joey!!!
More cam is always good!, but would need more stall and prob more gear in the back the car is a hand full on the street with the 4500 stall and the 4:10. I’ll do a stroker motor and get the torque I need, and more horse power to push into low 10s. I’m thinking it’s gunna just dip into 10s with a trans brake.
Great video! Excellent installation. Thanks for making these tutorials😁 I'll share your channel and please check out the guys over at Bad Tree Productions!!
If you had the girl doing the videos instead of you ,your channel would grow a lot faster, turning her into a star, if you look at all the channels which grow are normally with 2-4 ppl involved,and there is and has always been a “next female Gearhead “ star on the horizon…guys like you (or myself a 30yr tech)are less than a dime a dozen ,and what they mean by modifying the hold down is the bolt length for the hold down 😂😂😂😂 anyway take the idea of using her seriously, heck maybe two if you can find a good female tech to help,then you can talk back and forth it adds to entertainment value because really your not or don’t have much to offer unless all your subs also have a dodge too ,:)..
Bought a '72 Dart 318 for my oldest son and I to work on in the mid 2000's. He got to drive it his last year of high school and even though it was a rust bucket originally from the coast town of Florence Oregon, it was still the coolest car on campus.
Thank you for sharing. My first car in 1978 was a 1969 Dart Custom, with a 318. I always dreamt of hot rodding it, but never did. So when I retire, its my plan to find another one and have my dream car. Until then, I will watch your channel and imagine my car one day.. thank you so much your car is amazing.. 👍
Right on bro! Glad you are enjoying the channel!
I had a 70 dart in late 80 s whole time I had that car I wanted 67-69 finally I got my 68, love it ! I don't care if it rattles and shakes it's a blast!
Great attention to detail. A few things I've learned when relocating a battery to the trunk; yep, use a four post disconnect switch, they have two large posts for the power and two small posts. Run the power trigger wire for the MSD to the small posts. This way, when the switch gets turned off, It shuts off the MSD and kills the spark. For the ground, I weld a 2"x2"x1/2" thick steel plate to the trunk floor with a hole drilled and tapped for a 1/2" bolt for the ground wire to bolt to. I also weld another one to a frame rail in the engine bay and run a ground cable from it to the engine block. The final detail is where the hold down studs for the battery go through the trunk floor, I use 2"x2"x.125" thick plates as washers. This is to make sure the battery won't rip free if I'm ever in a serious accident.
Right on thanks for watching bro
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Your 2 post switch is fine - not sure of brand quality and amp rating though. . if your engine still runs after you turn the switch off, then you run your HOT cable from the alternator to the same side as the HOT cable going from BATTERY to the Switch. I had to do this with my factory Ford 3 wire alternator and now with my after market 1 wire alternator. I know it sounds ass backwards but that's just the way it is. I called Powermaster and Tuff Stuff and they told me the same. Just make sure you put the correct size inline fuse for it. My 1 wire alternator is a 140 amp so I bolted this strait off my Flaming River switch then bolted the alternator cable to the fuse www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/littelfuse-4149/lighting---electrical-16777/fuses-16615/fuses-11492/da78d762ece6/littelfuse-150-amp-mega-fuse/meg150bp/5841887
By the way, it sounded like you said something about the ground as a cut off. That's against the rules - cut off switch has to be on the positive side to be legal.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop here i made a quick video what mine looks like. Left #1 welding cable goes to Battery. Black 4 gauge welding cable with 150 amp fuse goes to alternator all time HOT. Right #1 welding cable goes to starter solenoid. Green 4 gauge with fuse goes to an after market fuse block in car. I just finished rewiring the whole car by the way ground up inside and out. Here's my video. If it helps, then cool. If not - then I tried.
ruclips.net/video/nTwUsTyvenw/видео.html
Good luck, wiring can suck for sure.
Nice work. Your attention to detail is great! Can't wait to see the rollbar installation! Hopefully you can video most of it.
I will make a vid after I get car back of the cage in the raw before paint thanks for watching
Just let me know if you’re getting sick me commenting how much I love that car......
............I love that car
Nope never! Hahah glad you are enjoying the build!
Would lend one recommendation: circuit protection. A 150amp or 200amp Optifuse resettable breaker installed no more than 18" from the battery would protect your car from potential fire in case of an accident or just the wire rubbing against metal. Also, might reconsider relocating the main power switch being mounted on the bumper it's directly in a very high impact area. Not trying to be a hater, just wanting to help. You have an awesome ride and wish you the best.
Thanks Joey! Needed that. Going to do that stuff to the Valiant!
👍🏻
I put a 16L or 20L AGM SLA under my passengers seat of my car back in 2003....made a harness out if 4ga stranded.....bolt the NEG to the seat slider rail attach and run the POS up to the bottom of the engine bay fuse box and attach directly to the main POS in there....use an Anderson connector to make it easily removable....works great....great for weight distro and rarely have anybody in the back seat so the area under the seat taken up by the battery isnt missed.
Everybody said 'it'll never work!!!' works great....since 2003 in 2 different cars.
5:53 "I didn't want to wreck the lines of the car" LOL "The car looked so good from the back so i just stuck it in the middle of the bumper" LOL
Just an idea, look up Adel Clamps. Might be a solution when you are ready to secure your battery cable inside the car. I use them to secure aircraft wiring and RF coax for aircraft equipment installations. Clean install by the way.
👍🏻 thanks ya kit came with holds but I’ll look into those
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop I bought the same Taylor box you have like 15 years ago. I bought it without all the cheap cables they offer. I run #1 Flex-A-Prene Heavy Duty welding cable for all the battery cables. Yes its all black insulation but who cares. I just took red electrical tape and taped the ends to know which are hot. The welding cable insulation is more flexible, resist cuts and tears and resist chemicals and oils better than your cable. I have had the same cables for 15 years and still perfect. No its not cheap but neither was your engine or your car...
I run Hot cable from battery to my Flaming River cutoff switch (don't skimp out and buy a cheap switch) then fused strait off the switch with a 175amp Littlefuse
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/blister-pack-4152/lighting---electrical-16777/fuses-16615/fuses-11492/8db92bcc5690/littelfuse-blister-pack-175-amp-mega-fuse/meg175bp/4414578 to starter solenoid then solenoid to starter (70 Cougar) .
I run these post terminals and you should too. So much easier to remove cables and your not messing up the clamp force of the post terminal. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/super-start-4986/battery-accessories-16452/battery-accessories-16508/battery-terminal---universal-17657/393e97768e9a/super-start-battery-terminal/08507/4742239/2003/dodge/ram-1500?pos=1
I run one ground from battery to rear frame and a ground from battery (big copper ring lugs stacked on one another) to the back of cylinder head - then front of engine to the chassis close to starter solenoid on fender apron. I also run an 8 gauge ground cable from the rear frame where it is grounded from battery to a 5/16 bolt I welded with some flat washers to the trans tunnel. I have a 10 gauge ground wire from that to another 5/16 bolt behind gauge cluster. Makes it easy to ground the gauges , tach, MSD (bolted to trans tunnel) like your about to do. Our old cars can never have enough grounds with our old metal panels.
Oh a tip for mounting your MSD to the trans tunnel. I drilled the 4 holes slightly smaller than the 4 mounting shock pads. Then I tapped them for the solid studded side of the shock mounts, hand tightened them to floor then bolted MSD to those with their screws. No welding and no helper required this way. It will not vibrate loose either.
Good decision to put the battery in the trunk. If you can't remove the weight put the weight in place that will help you. I can see a set of wheelie bars in your future. Nice clean install ! Cheers !
Hahha not for a while! Trans brake and sit it on the bumper first! Thanks for watching
Wow , can't believe how clean and rust free your floor is and I'm shocked that your not doing the cage yourself! 😐 I have seen you weld aluminum, I know you got what it takes! Oh well thanks for the update and switch looks great no where to put that thing since lid is shaped like it is. Looking forward to next video!
I know I know. Couple of factors added up to get it done rather than do it. Didn’t want to buy a “roll bar kit” they do t for good ie they make them fit cars so big gaps between door and headliner, don’t have the right dies to bend it myself, or a mandrill bender and can’t do at my work. My garage is so small it just wasn’t gunna work and I need to be done so I don’t get hung up by not having it. In the end I just need a bigger garage.
Got same project going on with my 73 dart!!! love the video!!!
Hey great! Watch the one after this one for more wire clean up! Thanks for watching
Love the content, keep it going man I'd like to see it in the 10s 1/4mile. So many little things to do to make it faster and NHRA legal. I see you use the Caltrac system(I think), I see a lot of people use the spring sliders on the rear of their leaf springs, I wonder why you're not using them. I like that you pay attention to details and try to keep everything clean and professional looking. I also like the fact you keep it NA, no nitrous, no fuel injection, no turbos, no supercharger, just good old Mopar power with a carb. It's just good old school hot rodding as it should be. I really enjoy your videos.
Hey thanks for watching bro! Yes full cal tracks but I don’t have the sliders I just use there hangers at the back. At the time I bought the whole package I heard the sliders weren’t as street friendly as the hangers and I don’t have a welder at my place. May add them later on tho. Yes good old Mopar power! Thanks again for watching. More to come soon
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop I watch a few different people that race on RUclips. One is a guy and his kids with S-10 turbo SBCs, DRC racing. I saw a video on how the Caltracs works and the sliders help a lot. Also how to set it up so there's no rear dip on acceleration, I forgot what it's called. years ago they thought it was good for the rear of the car to drop, they called it weight transfer but now it's a bad thing. I ain't no expert, not at all, not close just a fan of drag racing, but I think you have enough power to go faster. Love watching the process of discovery and incremental steps to go faster and faster.
Right on man. It’s a progress. Lots of stuff to do and time and money are always a factor. Don’t worry the car isn’t finished by along shot. I achieved all my goals last yea and have new goals for next race season. Thanks for watching
You’ve got some BEAUTIFUL junk in that trunk.
Nice install. I want to do that sometime to my ‘69 Barracuda fastback that has the fold down door into the trunk, but I didn’t want to have to make a tin firewall and lose that door feature. So the rule is, if the battery is mounted in a box, you don’t have to have a metal firewall? That’s great!
Yes that’s the rule! Do vent the box tho! Thanks for watching
Awesome video man
👍🏻 thanks bro
I'm starting winter upgrades as well... Beautiful car by the way!
👍🏻 right on thanks for watching
Love your work and love your videos I always look forward to your new posts and great detailed work thank you
Thanks for watching!
Funny story. Been following you for at least a few years on IG. I had a 72 Dart 360/ 340 heads. Nice car. Saw the car and started following immediately ! Now have a 70 Nova 454. Your videos on RUclips started popping up on my feed. Immediately recognized the GTS and said to myself I know that fuckin car ! Subscribed. Cool channel. Enjoyed several videos already ! That car is awesome dude ! And the channel content is awesome ! Figured I’d share that little bit of history. Lol take care
Right on my dude! Thanks for coming along for the ride 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Okay, thanks. I guess that's part of building a car, trial and hopefully not too much error! haha. Hope you don't mind if I keep asking? I have been learning a lot and getting good ideas from your channel and your great car!
That’s why I made the channel bro! Thanks for watching
All the wiring clean up and you are leaving the solenoid where it is? Now is the perfect time to move it to the back of the fenderwell or onto the firewall where it's hidden out of the way. Beautiful ride!
Ya I did plan on relocating it. Made a brackets and everything. No room on fire wall and was put back further on fender but it made it look to clustered with the line and master cylinder there.
I mounted my relay in the trunk, so that main wire is only hot when engaging the starter
Love the channel. When you change the switch change that red handle to aluminum color. lol
I kinda like the red!
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop All good man. I'm a Chevy guy and love your channel.
Even with the two post disconnect switch run the alternator wire to the positive side of the switch. Where the battery wire runs to that pole. I also have my MSD wire running to a kill switch on the dash which is a simple toggle switch. Just in case and anti theft
Oh nice! Right on, thanks for the info!
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop no worries. Just look up the Morroso disconnect switch on Summit and they have a link to instructions on the two poster. NHRA approved and easy peazy. Been running this for years with no worries
👍🏻 excellent thanks again!
Question, you have a 60s car & lm doing the same thing right now with my 67 galaxie, lve done everything so far but l noticed you don't have or l didn't see it but l have a voltage regulator on fire wall my alternator wasn't internally regulated, l just got a internal regulated 1, l have a single wire distributor but it was easy to install and setup, so do you know how or what to do with the regular?? Its on the firewall next to the starter solenoid so do l by pass it remove or??? I have a SHIT ton of wires going in & out lights ect. thank you very much for your time l really appreciate it, got to get ready for the season ya know😁 anyway love your vids l learned 1 thing & had to switch my converter as well it really helped of the line it was revving up & then just fell flat on its face, changed jets in carb changed timing different plugs you name it so l seen your vid & tried it & excellent l went from a 34 to a 38 so thanks for that, the converter was slipping the guy said it was burning up even with the big trans cooler, well gotta go keep up the good stuff 👍👍l hope we never meet on the track😂
Hey yes at the time of this I have voltage regulator on my fire wall. Ford and Mopar are differnt systems tho but if you have internal regulator you can by pass the one on fire wall. I’m doing mine right now. 👍🏻 lol good timing. Thanks for watching !
Nice..man... excellent winter mods...🤙
Just the start bro! More to come!
It would be better if the cables come thru inside the box from the bottom instead of outside which takes up more of your trunk space.
I would have put the on/off switch under the license plate and just spaced the plate out. When at the track remove your tag.
At one time NRA mandated the battery cable could not be in the car, did they change this?
They must have changed that rules. Every one runs them this way. Interesting idea about the plate. Too late now. Thanks for watching
Thank you. Be safe. Stay safe.
Looks great & sounds great as always.👍 It's always nice get'n new parts. I should be buying parts for my Dart but i've been buying recording equipment so i can get my new guitar instrumentals on RUclips. Cars n Guitars both cost a lot, hahaha. But worth it.
Right on tho. Rock on bro!
on off switch looks good
Battery box looks nice!!!
Whats the build up on your 360 motor???
Are your wheel welds stock or minney tubed?
Call John at caltracks and ask him about them front springs to transfer more weight to the rear tires and more lift in the front end. Good luck??
Tha ask for watching. Check out my dyno vid for full build details. Car is mini tubbed and full cal track set up! Lots more on my page
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop
Can find your dyno results on your motor and build please link me to it thanks.
Wow keep up the good work !!
👍🏻 hell ya brother
A couple things to think about. 1) Keep this switch, but move it into the trunk and use it as a battery kill that no one will see. 2) Move your starter solenoid inside the car. Our old cars are candy to car thieves. They have a lot of worth and are way too simple to rob them. EVERYTHING you can do to make it more difficult for them means more time you have to catch them red handed. Oh, also,,, you didn't need to drill through the trunk and frame. Everything in our cars is welded together, so any bracket in your trunk would do.
Kill switch ha to be visible on outside of car for NHRA rules. Yes I know the Frame is welded to body so ground is everywhere but frame is thickest and best place for the ground. Good idea to tho make it harder to steal by thieves. Thanks for watching.
Great mods, nice work man
👍🏻
Those headers are nice .
Are those TTI’s?
I’d love to have a set cause I’m tired of burning my wires on my Hedmans in the drivers rear on my 67 B’cuda.
Also did you have to modify or dent the header at all if you’re running stock steering and suspension.
Sorry I can’t remember your set up but I’m sure I watched a video at
One point.
I’m minintubbed using stock wheel openings and massaged the forward portion of the wheel opening 1.5” before body and paint was done obviously.
I got tired of burning up electric fuel pumps and used them all until I finally got a submersible stealth 340 fuel pump
With a return….now zero fuel pump issues but I am running a safety fuel inertia shut off switch in case someone rear ends me since my fuel cell is in the trunk and halfway outside the trunk as I just cut the trunk panel out and framed it to fit a 20 gal fuel cell.
The only thing I really need to do is build a firewall.
For now I’m just using an upholstered panel I fabricated.
I don’t have a shut off switch at the bumper but I do have one in my glove box where my fuse panel resides.
You
Would probably love my car.
My engine is nowhere as bad ass as yours but it has a healthy 500
HP at the flywheel / 366 cubes, four speed, 8-3/4 sure grip/ 4:11 gears on a 30” tire.
I’m not dragging it but It’s caged as well.
Took 12 years to build….I just don’t have the time and money to fix broken parts from running it hard.
I definitely want to put better headers and exhaust with cutouts.
I really love the way you did your side pipes.
I just dumped mine before the rear axle with flowmaster 40’s……they sound great but drone at idle.
Such a fun car to drive though…..turns heads everywhere with hemi orange paint and custom stripes, blacked super stock hood with a hemi scoop.
Sounds sweet man. These are tti and my new ones are the big tti ones check out new motor install vid to see them
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop
Very cool.
I will.
I need to clean up my typing as my auto correct Must like to cuss….geez.
Done….haha.
Do you post on FABO?
I haven’t been on there for years but it was a really good A body site for Mopar gear heads.
There was a guy on there that painted his car similar to yours ….it was a Lexus color I believe.
I really love the color of your machine….it’s just a top notch car in every way.
Found an interesting article that talked about mounting a relay, in the trunk, between the battery and the positive cable to the starter. This ensures that the positive cable is hot only when cranking. Made sense as you can imagine what would happen if somehow that positive cable developed a short, especially being mounted inside the car. Gonna give it a shot in mine when I mount a kill switch.
👍🏻
Where did you vent the battery gases? Nice sounding ride.
Vent tube from box out of a groomer in trunk floor. I show in video. Thansk for watching
I never asked and forgot to, What did you do about the Gas Tank ,That is to say did you use lager 3/8 line Replacement pick up> and run 3/8ths line? or add a sump to tank
Haven’t touched it. Just ram the 3/8 line straight to the original 5/16 pick up. I was looking for a good newer pick with a 3/8 but haven’t found one. Any recommendations?
Nice install. I've noticed for awhile you have a aluminum cross flow radiator, what kind do you have and where did you get it? I'm upgrading my A Body Dart, there are so many out there hard to know what's good and works. yours seems to do both. Thanks.
It came with the car! And there is no number or anything on it. Ya sorry I dunno. It works great tho. Pretty big too.
Do you have to run the starter thru the switch?
Rules state: switch must turn the car OFF.
So just the POWER wire has to go thru it. But the alternator still needs to be on the battery side of the switch. Two wires from front to back. Smaller, like 4 gauge.
What do you think?
Not exactly sure what your after there. Yes car should shut off. I will prob run the alternator on the battery side to make sure it kills the car when switched
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop starter draws a lot of current. But, its not energized till the solenoid pulls in. You would need a heavy duty switch for 4-500 amps. (Cranking current)
If the purpose of the switch is to turn off power circuits for safety- (electric fuel pump)
Why run the direct line to the starter thru the switch?
Hey question, how did you add the switch in the bumper? I have the same one and don't wanna screw up. Lol
Yes added the switch. I talk about it in video. Just drill a hole.
You running a summit rad? Curious on your cooling setup
The rad came in the car when I bought it. Don’t know brand but it’s pretty big and works well!
Sorry they didn't send you enough positive cable. Nice recovery on that.
Thanks ya I should have measured better in the first place. Thanks for watching
Man I really like the mini tubs have a video on them or information please
Yes I will do one soon. Showing mini tubs and cal track system. Thanks for watching
Is a battery box required for the IHRA? Thanks!
Box required if battery relocated to trunk and no fire wall from truck to cab of car
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Okay, thank you. I want to relocate the battery of my S10 drag truck.
What size are your rims and rear tires?
Check out the mini tub vid. Lots of info there
Im a gm guy but your car is dam nice
Thanks bro! Carefull tho, I have converted a few Chevy guys already!
Can not convert your car still very nice
L S sound great and etc I get it I'm 53 yrs old had all kinds trucks and cars , you just can't beat the lines and square corners! Something different also +
Do you have to vent a gel battery
It’s a yellow top optima which is a AGM style. Thanks for watching
Came for the babe stayed for the car....
Ha classic
Thanks for the info.
👍🏻
Weight for the gate 👍🏻
You got it
Hey joe do you have disc brakes on your dart?
Yes I do. Just up front drums in back still
Joey can’t find your dyno results please send thank you jb
Click on videos on my channel to see all my videos.
ruclips.net/video/fsUY-lZ9Cjc/видео.html
Hi Joey
Very nice for a fairly stock motor but I think you car can get into the 10’s with a nice lunati cam in the 626 lift with a 323 duration 110 lube really hits hard your just about there I know this cam and works really really well we were running 10.86 in a 69 Camera with a 377 very close and you maybe lighter so I think great numbers for ya Joey!!!
More cam is always good!, but would need more stall and prob more gear in the back the car is a hand full on the street with the 4500 stall and the 4:10. I’ll do a stroker motor and get the torque I need, and more horse power to push into low 10s. I’m thinking it’s gunna just dip into 10s with a trans brake.
We were running 456 and 4000 stall?
Ask John he knows forsure on all that Joel???
Your car is very nice, but that steering wheels got to go. Maybe a GT wheel would look much better
It’s stock!
Great video! Excellent installation. Thanks for making these tutorials😁
I'll share your channel and please check out the guys over at Bad Tree Productions!!
Right on! Ya thanks share it everywhere you like! I’ll check them out. 👍🏻
Did you just use your gf as a clickbait? haha, but nice work like always!
Yes I I did! Did it work?
If you had the girl doing the videos instead of you ,your channel would grow a lot faster, turning her into a star, if you look at all the channels which grow are normally with 2-4 ppl involved,and there is and has always been a “next female Gearhead “ star on the horizon…guys like you (or myself a 30yr tech)are less than a dime a dozen ,and what they mean by modifying the hold down is the bolt length for the hold down 😂😂😂😂 anyway take the idea of using her seriously, heck maybe two if you can find a good female tech to help,then you can talk back and forth it adds to entertainment value because really your not or don’t have much to offer unless all your subs also have a dodge too ,:)..
clickbait....
The title says it all. If you clicked just because of the girl that’s on you bro.