Porsche 914 Restoration | headlights, dash & wiring harness
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Today we remove the headlights, dash, wiring harness and more. Check it out! Porsche 914 Restoration - metal work prep
Get your 914 parts here:
www.restoratio...
914rubber.com
Thanks for the great content of bike review! Cheers!
Thank you! =)
It's not Sunday without CT's video upload - thank you!
Thanks buddy!
Yep, come home from church, relax on the couch and live vicariously through our brutha CT!
Very cool CT! This 914 seems to be in pretty good shape all things considered. "We're getting there, guys!".
Thanks man! Yes, it's not too bad. It should be a fun project! =)
I'm sensing some future "We're Getting There Guys!" T-shirt/merch! Lol
LOVE THIS SUNDAY MORNING CHILLEN HAVING MY COFFEE HANGING OUT ON CT. CHANNEL 👍😁👍
Thanks Atom!
The 914 and the Karmann Ghia are two really cool cars. I hope you get them to a state where you can use as daily drivers...
Thanks buddy! They are pretty cool cars! =) that's the plan.
North Hollywood Instruments can restore the tach, the speedometer and the gas gauge
Thanks! =)
Movie length! You are spoiling us, CT. I'll get a beer and some snack and enjoy on a lazy sunday afternoon 😃
Enjoy! =)
I watch bits all week long….keep it up.
The hoses connect to the window washer fluid reservoir. Its under pressure from the spare tire.
Cool CT. This is going to be a wonderful series of my favorite VW. Next one I like is the Karmann Ghia.God speed !
Yes, they are both really cool cars. Thanks buddy! =)
Those 2 vacuum lines look like they are for the wiper blade system
They are water hoses for operating the windshield washer system. Nothing like sending water into the steering column where the car also has its turn signal and high beam electrical switches. German engineering at its finest!
The steering column switch cover has 2 screws, then the cables can be pulled off and the ignition lock screw unscrewed. However, this screw is a shear-off screw that breaks off when tightened. So you can only loosen it with a chisel and then unscrew it. If you know , quite simple. It's just the old VW technology. The wiper linkage should actually only come out together with the wiper motor and not be screwed any further.
taking this 914 down to its bare bones is a Brave Endeavor, but these cars are worth it, to me. I’ve owned a ‘75 2.0L since ‘93 as a teenager & I’ve found that you either love or hate 914s. the Porsche community seem to have come around to them more lately, but have traditionally excluded them from conversation. the VW community has enjoyed the 914 since their birth, as you may expect from them. so, I take my 914 to VW events before any Porsche event for obvious reasons. I’m always asked to park in the featured/displayed areas at VW events, regardless of what my intentions are & it shows me that I’m where I need to be. best wishes to all of you here…let’s save all that we can.
My experience so far is that Porsche customers demand better panel fit that VW guys... Every replacement panel for the 356 has been SPOT ON. I'm not used to that level of accuracy. I know you said you don't want to blast it, but they can blast just certain areas of the car. That may be a way to go.
Yes I’m impressed so far. Looking forward to welding them in. Yes I’ll probably have to blast at some point. 😎😎😎
Great job, CT. I just bought my grandson a 1973 2L and will use your videos as we restore it. Thank you from NYC.
Good start Have fun
Thanks buddy!😎😎😎
I think you should mark each electrical plug (put a label to identify where it will be connected).
This way later, it would be easier to know where you are going.
greetings from Portugal
Hose are probably for windshield washer
yes, I think you are correct.
Dash removal reminds me of a bull in a china shop, lol. Great video.
😂😭😅
The "Zip-Tie" looking thing on the wires around the headlight pivot was the re-usable kind, you trip the little tab sticking out with a small screwdriver, and slide it back apart, if you throw all the semi-decent rubber and plastic parts like that that you havent cut, ripped or destroyed in a pickle-jar with some armor-all in the bottom and close the lid, a lot of it will come back to life and be flexible again after a few weeks soak
That E-bike is really cool! Also, another great episode...thanks for taking us along in your restoration.
Thanks man! I appreciate that! =)
Advanced cinematic techniques!
haha! Thank you! =)
CT
Good morning
It sounds like a good idea to get it chemical diped. It is the most gentle treatment to get rid off rust spots.
You might also look into CO2 blasting. There are several companies with that technology. I have been trying a good company using JetCold blasting, but haven't found one jet
Agreed. Due to flooding with salt water, the entire body needs to be dipped to remove the rust started by the salt water in all the hidden, unseen body areas. Those areas can't be reached in any other way in order to neutralize the rust.
I would hope you'd be replacing 50 year old wiring. Would you really trust all that old, submerged wiring to go back in and not do an automotive imitation of Chernobol?
haha! Yes, we might need a new one... =)
@@CTmoog I’m enjoying this build. I’m looking forward to the next installment
Thank you! 😎@@saleendriver
I watched the video like a movie.good job mate.i'm excited for next rust videos
Great job! 🤗👍👌👏💯
Thank you 🤗
@@CTmoog You are welcome 🤗
You should buy a head nount camera to make things easier for you.
yes, I might do that. they are really cool. =)
I love Minute of Dangle. You should do it!
You never get to see those cars after.
yes it would be cool to see it bare metal....I have to see if there is one in central Florida.
Wow, you did CT !
You got all the stuff out .👍
A wiring harmess like an octopus 😮
Can't wait to see your next video .
😁 Thanks man! Yes, that wiring harness is crazy! =)
Hi CT, it just dawned on me that I don't need to buy a VW that I don't have the room for just an engine to do videos on. I see them on Marketplace every now and then so someday will get one and an engine stand to have some fun with. I've never tore one apart except for the heads and removed the engine to work on. I've watch enough of your videos with Darrin that I'm sure I can do it.
God be with you on this one bro.
It doesn’t look 👀 that bad.
Thanks buddy! No too bad...=)
You got a lot of patience with rust and stuff on these old vws
The car was developed by Ferdinand Porsche and built by VW and is therefore called the VW Porsche 914.
👍😎👍
Ferdinand Piech was working with his father-in-law (who was the top dog at VW). He died and his successor decided to REALLY mess with the deal they had...which is one reason why Porsche killed it off after only 6 years and stopped offering the 914-6 even sooner.
@@ianhardin1148 The original deal was just a handshake deal between both of the old top dogs at VW and Porsche. When the top guy at VW died, the replacement VW guy claimed that there wasn't any deal and made Porsche agree to a new, written contract at a price that was much higher than the handshake deal's price. As a result, that new, higher, price, made the car more expensive for Porsche, which is why the 914-6 cars sold so poorly, because they were overpriced at the retail level compared to a Porsche 911. The 914-4's were only sold in the USA as Porsches, while in the rest of the World the 914'-4's were sold as VW-Porsches, as you noted. Between 1970 and 1976, the 914's got more and more expensive because the US Dollar was dropping in value in the 1970's relative to. the German Mark, which was becoming much stronger at that time and make all German products much more expensive in the USA. Even against that background, the 914 was the single biggest selling model that Porsche ever made until the SUV Cayene came along in the 21st Century.
Firstly, sorry for the long comment that wiring a nightmare got a headache watching 10/10 for persistence CT
Google search found Jeff's 914 Wiring Harnesses in the USA I know you're not ready yet but I'm sure CT most of that wiring harness you removed is probably damaged.
If you can buy it depending on your budget, get it in sections so they can be fed through the gromet to firewall even with the upgrade can probably get a connection if you wish to run extra gauges and USB port access for charging phones etc. and upgraded relay plugs i know you wish to keep it as original as possible.
Also at times very hard doing a job on your own.
Hi CT, really enjoyed this one! Just two thoughts, one the wiring harness will be a pile of intermittent problems if you try to reuse it, second if you have carbs, you can heave the relay board from the left side of the engine bay overboard. It does nothing now. There is a lot devoted to that board and ECU in that harness
yes, that's interesting...I wonder if I could make a new basic vs for the carbs....and eliminate some of those wires....
@@CTmoog as best as I recall, there were lines out of relay box that went to the fuel pump, cold start valve and something else that escapes my memory. At this point it has been almost 40 years! Easiest thing to do would be tape the plugs off and forget them. More to the point, since it has been underwater, you would do well to just replace it. Anything with “green” showing will become intermittent and give you a whole bunch of weird problems. I wish you well but it’s a lot more rusty than Goldie was. IMHO if you dipped it, it would most likely fall apart. Good luck!
a little welding and some paint she will be good as new.
Thanks for all the advice Mike!
Just was given my Grandpas 76 914 that he put an 89 NSX (Honda) V6 into, I am going to start work on that rusty thing soon. I am also planning on 3D scanning and 3D printing as much of the plastics I can and thinking about replacing the metal dash with a 3D printed one, mostly for crash safety.
As one can see on this Porsche 914, Audi's introduction of fully zinc - plated car bodies (must have been sometime in the early 1990s) really made sense!
I’m rebuilding/restoring a rusty (but not as bad as your 914) 1978 Fiat X1/9. I made the decision to entirely remove and discard the 46 year old Italian wiring. Future me will learn about auto electrics. 😊❤️🚗 I’m 😅doing a K24 engine swap so lots of fun ahead.
The Porsche 914 and the Fiat X1/9 are very similar in layout. The 914s are VERY rare here in Australia.
What would cause the most trouble for me is not taking apart a car like this one! It's the "Humpty - Dumpty" - experience of putting it all together again, like the King's horses and the King's Men! Hundreds of fasteners (some plastic, some not), washers, screws, bushings - oh my God😮!!!
Re-Assembling this 914 will likely provide CT with many months, if not years, of video content for RUclips!
@@mikedx2706 OK, so let's stay tuned, of course! It is obvious that it takes a very straightforward mind to face all this hassle, from bodywork, engine overhaul to the time - and money - consuming task of getting the parts together and installed in the right place. It very much depends on the maker and type of the car, but I found out that some replacement parts are extremely hard to find, and horrendously expensive! For example, I found a gauge set for the 914 on a German sales platform. The price tag: 900 €! Cheap, isn't it?
Due to the age I would replace the entire harness. If it’s like VW it will come with instructions and the required grommets I believe.
yes, I think Restoration Design is making them now.
You are a brave man! Thanks for the update!
Thank you! =)
The hole next to the cigarette lighter is for the windshield wiper in older models
Haha CT, you can wear your madusa head harness for Halloween. I changed out an under dash mustang burnt up wire harness years ago and was simple compared to this. But only under dash wiring and comsole. I took out the new used harness at a part out in 15 minutes. Not sure why yours has so much wire? Like you said there was some options on it.
Glad to hear you are seeking panels from Restoration Design, and that you are going to brace it before you work on stuff. I recommend you brace it on all 3d. Dimensions.
If you do it really well, you could get up to 30 or 40k.
If your channel was doing really well you would be doing it for views and the price wouldn’t matter, but I don’t think you are at that point, yet.
Maybe you can get some freebies for showcasing RD’s stuff and 914Rubber too.
I’m happy you’re doing it.
Good Work 👍👍👍
my bug body was dipped before I bought it so I have first hand experience. I would definitely never do that. It leaves all the little crevices that you can not get to, with very little protection. I am afraid it might rust from the inside out in the future and it will take me a lot of hours to try and reach/treat all those places which basically means drilling holes, spraying wax in there and welding it back up.
That's interesting...I was wondering if that was an issue. There are a ton of areas that you can't access to protect. Do they not dip it after in a protective primer? they should.....
@@CTmoog in my case they didn't. Perhaps they planned on doing that after the welding was done... I bought it before they finished the welding and put it in epoxy primer myself. Still have to do the hard to reach areas
Lol. Now you've got me searching FB marketplace for a 914. CT peer pressure is REAL! Lol
haha! Yes, you can still find good deals on them. lol =)
@CTmoog the only problem is I've got about 50% of your gumption and 10% of your skills :)
haha😂@@ianhardin1148
@CTmoog looking at a red 1970 914 here in Kansas city tomorrow. $3500.
It was actually signal orange. Car was pretty solid but I couldn't get the drivers seat to go all the way back to see if I can actually fit in the thing! :(
The little threaded piece keeps the tach and the speedo and gas gage in
Danng CT. that car is a puzzle. Try doing a MG MIDGET some day thats would be a challenge thier a big puzzle i knew someone that did one its a challenge🤔
In Germany, gauge sets for the 914 (so-called "Kombiinstrument") are available e.g. on Ebay Kleinanzeigen, but they are bloody expensive: one seller in 46562 Voerde asks 900 € for a set, another one 500 €. Of course, Speedos are in km/h, not mph. Maybe somebody can cannibalize this part of a car to be scrapped. Repair could be a problem, as the gauges (electronic!) have been totally soaked in water! I am really looking forward to one of the next episodes to find out whether there's still some life in them!
Hallo CT wann hast du den VW Porsche 914 fertig und was wird er dann kosten? Ich glaube ca 20 000 Euro oder mehr sind thüss aus Düsseldorf 🇩🇪🇩🇪👍👍🇱🇷🇱🇷🙍
Once again the Swamp Monster comes out ahead. Caveman CT in action. If you had learned how to take apart wire connectors, it would save you time and money!
😢
The relay connector is the (ridiculous) US spec seatbelt warning light / starter interlock system.
Another great video!
Those original German round relays are stupid expensive if you can find them, but you can get cheap Uro brand (likely made in china), for $30 ish bucks. Be ready to replace the Uro’s often.
Hopefully the original ones are still good.
I think you may need a case of Deoxit for that car. It is surprisingly complex. Maybe they are more Porsche than VW after all.
yes, I'm going to pressure wash it really good this week.
Hello CT, where do you buy the repair panels for the 914. Here in Germany the repair panels are in short supply, you in United States have many more options.
Thank you and continued success.
Robert
Hey Robert, restoration design, they are located in Canada. www.restoration-design.com
AGAIN where the dimmer switch and turn signal handles are that plastic shield has 2 screws you NEED to take that shield off
Frees frame at 33:20 you should see the 5 of 6 yellowish knobs you should have removed, first, to separate the hood, top dash, from the frame, accessed by pulling the gauges out, then reaching inside. That would have made it easier to pull the rest apart. Now you will have a bit of an issue separating the top dash from the facia frame, since there are studs at 90 degrees you need to navigate to separate or reassemble. The facia frame is not as easy to replace as the top dash, since 914Rubber makes a great top dash replacement.
Yes, those yellowish knobs are nylon nuts that hold the plastic formed dash top to the metal dashboard frame. Virtually impossible to re-install them with the dash board still bolted to the carbody.
@@mikedx2706 I was able to get to all those top dash nuts and replace my top dash with one from 914Rubber by watching the video they did. The difficult part was getting the studs to line up and the angle right since there are studs at almost 90° to each other.
But yes the bottom or knee pad dash had to come off first. I did not have to remove the center dash frame to do all that.
There are tools available that are like keys to release these terminals from the connector.
Save those headlamps. Look like European H4 spec beams.
Thanks man! I will, although one of them is full of water....
CT Why didn’t you label the wiring harness it would be easier to reconnect the devices
good idea! =) ill do that next time! 😂
Hello mate. You've got your work cut out with this one haven't you?
Just so you know - every time you cut a cable instead of taking a little longer to remove it in one piece to re-use, God sends down an invisible foot to kick a kitten.
🤣
oh man...I'll think twice before I cut the next one. 🤣🤣🤣 - the speedo cable was broken at the transmission looks like years ago. Thanks buddy! =)
I think the wiring diagrams are on Samba in technical link
Where you get all the parts from? Are you planning on re using the harnesses?
RestorationDesign, 914rubber - we might be able to save it.
CT if you are going to this extent you’re going to put in a new wiring harness, aren’t you?
yes, when we get to that point I'm sure I will get a new one. that would be nice to have.
Can you take fender off as bolt on? It been years since I owned a 914. I remember taking out the side marker when I was 16 and accidentally hit the chain Link post and broke the driver's side marker.
no unfortunately they are welded to the body....I'm pretty sure the rear drivers side will have to be replaced.
No. The 914 was one of the last coach-built sports cars. Fenders are not bolt-on. Karmann welded all the fenders on the body; only the doors, hood and trunk lids were bolted on.
I was just wondering what happened to that. Pick up that you were restoring. Going to be driving or using some thing you were gonna use. Just wondering if you're still going to finish that project. Or what or did you sell the project? A lot of people would probably like to know.
59:12 into the video, those relay boards are nearly impossible to find good replacements of. BE SUPER CAREFUL WITH THE TAR UNDERNEATH. After 50 years it crumbles really easily and will cause shorts. I went through hell trying to get one repaired and ultimately had to bypass the alternator signal lead. Now my alternator relay has to be mounted off the relay board. Since yours was under water you may want to speak with George Hussey at Autos Atlanta to see if he has one in better shape. Either way, crossing fingers for you.
Thanks buddy! That is good info!
That tar needs to be completely removed with paint thinner or acetone, and carefully scrapping it off with a plastic tool or bead blasting it. The Relay Board is is totally analog: just a bunch of copper strips of metal riveted to the board. It's an early version of an electronic printed circuit board, just made using rivets and thin strips of copper sheeting. There is nothing magic about it. Once the tar is removed. you can then go around and re-punch/tighten all the rivets to make sure they are still tight and testing each trace for good continuity. Then you simply spray the bottom of the Relay Board with a black bed liner material to make it sealed up again. Presto, one Relay Board that will last for another 50 years.
@@mikedx2706 I tried that on one of the boards I got. The traces pass over each other and if you fail to get complete separation and insulation from all the other traces, you will have short circuits and possibly fire. I know, it happened with that board and I was certain I had it right. It turned out I was certainly wrong.
You may have no alternative, so use that method, just be damn sure you have it ALL right and thoroughly test each trace, even with loads.
CT are those aluminum parts because if they are you’re gonna have to buy a new welder it’s called a TIG welder
And put it toghether again?
hopefully! =)
Just drop that bike off at the house…ya speed demon
haha! =)
Glad you’re getting some good sponsors with cool gear, but you need to be careful with any lithium battery powered devices. If the battery gets hot to the touch, like you can’t hold it without hurting, get it outside and away from anything that could catch fire if it does go up.
Do not keep an electric bike in the house when charging. lithium battery fires are rare, but because we are using them more often and in more products we are seeing more instances of lithium battery fires. If one catches fire DO NOT let the smoke even get on your skin. The toxicity of a lithium battery fire is deadly. DO NOT underestimate that fact. Hopefully the batteries in these products were not made in China, and were made to a higher quality standard that what we have been seeing lately. Please be safe, bro, we want to see your projects make it to their completions.
That parking pass.....Canaveral Port Authority - Jetty Park - has a picture of a Space Shuttle - wonder if that car belonged to someone who worked at Cape Canaveral for NASA or just visited???? Very interesting. Maybe someone can help determine what that parking pass was used for. Is it actual NASA or just a tourist parking area. Kind of cool. And what the hell is that and a Pen doing in there?????
What vehicles have you completed?
what vehicles have you completed? =)
@@CTmoog everyone I started on
I am going to just re-wire the whole car with modern wire since it's so small, I don't trust that old wiring.
I would tape it and write it on the tape
That dash is probably a pretty expensive piece. You should try to restore it yourself. There is a lot of videos on how to do it.
You can use that money for other parts.
Wait till you try to put it back together 😂
Is this a video on how not to dismantle a 914!😐
Please brace it in all 3 dimensions, before you put it on its side.
they dont like speed bumps 😳
spagetti anyone
Better put new wire
Plastic nuts under dash to remove it
now you tell me! =)
@@CTmoog Ask about all that. I restored my 73 2.0 and took all the lights out all the heat stuff under the cowel, so I know all that
and this man have to put all back in this car when painted looks like a box off parts and clips will be left over 🤣??
I certainly hope you are current on your tetanus vaccination. The more of these 914 videos that I watch, the more I shudder to think how bad the rust is on that 914 since it was flooded in salt water. As you probably know from owning other Porsche 914's, there was absolutely no rust preventive treatment given the 914 bodies; they were lucky to get painted in the unseen areas. Are you going to do a complete disassembly of the engine and transmission soon? I hope so, because salt water is not friendly to combinations of different metals that are in close contact with each other. The aluminum, magnesium, steel, cast iron, and copper found in the mechanical parts will soon start marking an unholy alliance with the help of the salt water. Time to start looking for another body shell where you can use the engine, transmission, and suspension from this one to make one complete rebuilt 914.
Pls paint the one car that you done pls put all rust out and repaint blue before you sell pls to much and cost lot of cash