Yes you could put one right after the bullet drop station but then you would have to seat and crimp (TOGETHER) in the last station. I had a seat/crimp die and was not a fan.
At the end (4:58), it looks like 2 of the rounds are not sitting down in that case gauge. Top right corner and bottom row, 4th from the right. Are those rounds bad, then?
So what does it take to change out to use a different caliber, let’s say rifle rounds .223? Do you have a plate like in the case feeder and a different spring and die that you can quickly swap to a different tool head configuration?
You might consider lubing just the outside of you casings and leave the lube out of the inside of the casings. Or better yet, run a completely separate process of resize/deprime with lube. Then clean off the lube with walnut media, then a full run of reloading. This will help reduce the powder jump.
It doesn't matter... it doesn't hurt anything.. Who wants to spend more time at the press than necessary? Why the fk would you want to retumble your ammo to get rid of the lube. Simply wet a large shirt with simple green and clean your ammo like a bowling ball..Done in 10 seconds vs getting your tumbler, sifter, and exposing your work area to more lead contaminate... I swear... What some of you "rifle loaders" will say and do is just fkin absurd. Total rookie sh!t.. You literally have no idea what you're talking about.. It's like you're parroting what others have said. Have you ever heard of anyone having bad ammo from case lube? Ever try it yourself? Is it magically going to create so much more pressure in your gun that it's going to blow? Or do you think it'll magically keep the powder from burning? Let me tell you now it doesn't do anything. Zero. FFS use your head a little.
Luv this system. Looked at it long and hard. How did you get past having to remove the power check and having no fail safe for a no powder or double charge.
Jeff W Thank You! It was a decision that had to be made once I added the Mr Bulletfeeder if I wanted to continue seating and crimping in separate stations. I am not a fan of seat/crimp combo dies as I prefer the results when keeping them separate. I do keep an eye on the loads falling into the cases and do my best to stay focused on quality not quantity. The greatest risk I believe is when you half-stroke and then complete the full stroke due to tipped case or the like. I always come back and check the case that was under Station 2 (powder) for the possible double charge. It’s never happened but I always check. If In doubt I dump powder and reuse at end of batch as case is primed already. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
simply you watch the powder in the case. That's the only reliable fail safe solution. Powder check sucks if you switch calibers or powders frequently. And it's not a fail safe either.
I ran a powder check on my 1050 for a year loading over 80 thousand rounds, the damn thing never went off, took it off the press 21 years ago and still haven’t had a single powder charge issue. Cheers
Hello. Is your bullet feeder still functioning the way you want it to? I have an XL 750, and I was thinking about adding that option. Is there anything about the bullet feeder that you do not like, or causes you concern? I periodically have an issue with my case feeder, where it will jam up at the top funnel if I am not paying close attention. I have everything adjusted per the manual, so I am not really sure why this is happening. Do you ever have these type jam ups? What made you decide to go with the 320 powder instead of the 330 powder. I am presently using CFE pistol, and was thinking about changing to the VV 330. Thanks Phil Griffin
I was at my local dillon dealer shopping for a new 750 last week. He has a bunch of them setup there that they use for reloading and selling ammo. I saw the Mr. Bulletfeeder on one of them and the dude mentioned in passing that dillon had acquired that company. that's good enough for me. Dillon made the machine and the dies I'm gonna use. If they think the bullet feeder is a good enough design to work with their machine, I'll take their word. :D
Sorry for delay in response Phillip! The Mr. Bulletfeeder has been moved to an RL1100 that is automated and working amazingly well. It is a great add-on and one that I would not delay in getting. I load a heavy projectile at 147gr and N320 works very well at 3.4gr of powder. Clean burning powder as well. I'm not familiar with the weight recommendations of N330.
Is there a advantage having the bullet feeder mounted to the ceiling opposed too the case feeder? I also noticed on yours the piece that raises the bullets upright is a lot taller than mine was that a add on? I just purchased one for 9mm and a conversion kit for the 45acp.
Pat, I did this for 3 reasons: 1.) I can still use my XL650 Machine Cover by simply removing the spring and +/- leads from the bullet drop die 2.) The weight of the Bullet Feeder is not on the case feeder and while it's minor still nothing to bear 3.) The movement of the Case Feeder does not cause the Mr. Bulletfeeder to move and risk direction of bullets dropping I did not modify the actual Mr. Bulletfeeder that part you mention was factory included, not sure why mine's taller.
what is that shroud around your powder drop? It drives me insane that my shell plate begins to accumulate so much powder half way through a batch of ammo
Max Janszen no shroud Bud! I think it’s the black inner portion of the bullet drop die that appears to be in the powder drop die station due to the camera angle.
Couple questions, I have a 750 and have realized that I've sorted all of my other start-up issues and want to pick up some speed. 1. Does the die actually push the bullet in a bit so it can ride to the next station without falling off? How sensitive is that adjustment? 2. What happens if an empty station passes through, like if your case feeder goes empty or you pull a case that primed funny? Thanks!!
1. No, it just drops a bullet on top of the case. 2. You're screwed, you will find out once you have a squib at the range. Case feeder goes empty nothing will happen and a oddly primed case would just need to be pulled off the press.
Oh... Man. The only thing not so effective in your process is to load completed ammo to the tray. You really need to find a more effective way. 🤣🤣 Nice video. 👍👍
@@SpartanArmament There is a risk that the amunition will not ignite. For example, use a shoe bag and spray the liquid into it without brass. Then insert the sleeves and move the bag on all sides. This way the liquid gets to the outside and not into the brass.
@@rogerzobrist4211 Yeah Bro you obviously have NO clue, LOL! Do you even reload? Lube is made typically of 99% Alcohol and Lanolin at 10:1 or 8:1 ratio. The Alcohol flashes off and the Lanolin stays behind causing no major effects on gunpowder or primers.
I like how clean and organize your work area is, looks very efficient 👍
Thank You!
Hey man, big points for you using the best powder, Vihtavuori!! N320 is great! Especially in 45 as well
Nice set up!!!!!Thanks for sharing.
Very nice
This video is so basic... but so satisfying ❤️
Thank You! Appreciate the support!
With a bullet feeder now in position 3 can you also use a powder checker somewhere
Yes you could put one right after the bullet drop station but then you would have to seat and crimp (TOGETHER) in the last station. I had a seat/crimp die and was not a fan.
when you use case lube on 9mm, how do you clean the lube off the completed bullet?
What would you say is the difference in production rate is with and without the bullletfeeder
At the end (4:58), it looks like 2 of the rounds are not sitting down in that case gauge. Top right corner and bottom row, 4th from the right. Are those rounds bad, then?
Not bad by any means that Hundo case gauge has very tight tolerances. It could be a piece of powder or bullet coating causing that.
So what does it take to change out to use a different caliber, let’s say rifle rounds .223? Do you have a plate like in the case feeder and a different spring and die that you can quickly swap to a different tool head configuration?
You might consider lubing just the outside of you casings and leave the lube out of the inside of the casings. Or better yet, run a completely separate process of resize/deprime with lube. Then clean off the lube with walnut media, then a full run of reloading. This will help reduce the powder jump.
It doesn't matter... it doesn't hurt anything.. Who wants to spend more time at the press than necessary?
Why the fk would you want to retumble your ammo to get rid of the lube. Simply wet a large shirt with simple green and clean your ammo like a bowling ball..Done in 10 seconds vs getting your tumbler, sifter, and exposing your work area to more lead contaminate...
I swear... What some of you "rifle loaders" will say and do is just fkin absurd. Total rookie sh!t.. You literally have no idea what you're talking about.. It's like you're parroting what others have said. Have you ever heard of anyone having bad ammo from case lube? Ever try it yourself? Is it magically going to create so much more pressure in your gun that it's going to blow? Or do you think it'll magically keep the powder from burning? Let me tell you now it doesn't do anything. Zero.
FFS use your head a little.
Luv this system. Looked at it long and hard. How did you get past having to remove the power check and having no fail safe for a no powder or double charge.
Jeff W Thank You! It was a decision that had to be made once I added the Mr Bulletfeeder if I wanted to continue seating and crimping in separate stations. I am not a fan of seat/crimp combo dies as I prefer the results when keeping them separate.
I do keep an eye on the loads falling into the cases and do my best to stay focused on quality not quantity. The greatest risk I believe is when you half-stroke and then complete the full stroke due to tipped case or the like. I always come back and check the case that was under Station 2 (powder) for the possible double charge. It’s never happened but I always check. If In doubt I dump powder and reuse at end of batch as case is primed already.
Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
simply you watch the powder in the case. That's the only reliable fail safe solution. Powder check sucks if you switch calibers or powders frequently. And it's not a fail safe either.
I ran a powder check on my 1050 for a year loading over 80 thousand rounds, the damn thing never went off, took it off the press 21 years ago and still haven’t had a single powder charge issue.
Cheers
Hi, you dont use a powder check. Do you trust the Powder Meassure that much!
yup!
Nice video man. Just bought my first Dillon (750) after running a Lee for a longtime. What primer pickup tube holder is that on the bullet feeder?
Dan V Thank You for the compliment! The primer pickup tube holder is from Inline Fabrication.
So how much better is the RL1100 vs the XL 750? What does it do better? Is it more durable?
More robust, durable, faster, efficient, etc.
I agree, I bit the bullet and own a RL1100 now and love it. The priming system is far superior to the XL750.. It loads great ammo with ease..
Hello.
Is your bullet feeder still functioning the way you want it to? I have an XL 750, and I was thinking about adding that option.
Is there anything about the bullet feeder that you do not like, or causes you concern?
I periodically have an issue with my case feeder, where it will jam up at the top funnel if I am not paying close attention. I have everything adjusted per the manual, so I am not really sure why this is happening. Do you ever have these type jam ups?
What made you decide to go with the 320 powder instead of the 330 powder. I am presently using CFE pistol, and was thinking about changing to the VV 330.
Thanks
Phil Griffin
I was at my local dillon dealer shopping for a new 750 last week. He has a bunch of them setup there that they use for reloading and selling ammo. I saw the Mr. Bulletfeeder on one of them and the dude mentioned in passing that dillon had acquired that company.
that's good enough for me. Dillon made the machine and the dies I'm gonna use. If they think the bullet feeder is a good enough design to work with their machine, I'll take their word. :D
Sorry for delay in response Phillip! The Mr. Bulletfeeder has been moved to an RL1100 that is automated and working amazingly well. It is a great add-on and one that I would not delay in getting.
I load a heavy projectile at 147gr and N320 works very well at 3.4gr of powder. Clean burning powder as well. I'm not familiar with the weight recommendations of N330.
N330 is supposed to be the ultimate 9mm powder. I’ve only used 320 and 340, both are awesome
Is there a advantage having the bullet feeder mounted to the ceiling opposed too the case feeder? I also noticed on yours the piece that raises the bullets upright is a lot taller than mine was that a add on? I just purchased one for 9mm and a conversion kit for the 45acp.
Pat, I did this for 3 reasons:
1.) I can still use my XL650 Machine Cover by simply removing the spring and +/- leads from the bullet drop die
2.) The weight of the Bullet Feeder is not on the case feeder and while it's minor still nothing to bear
3.) The movement of the Case Feeder does not cause the Mr. Bulletfeeder to move and risk direction of bullets dropping
I did not modify the actual Mr. Bulletfeeder that part you mention was factory included, not sure why mine's taller.
Spartan.Armament
Thanks for your reply I will check the piece when I get home.
what is that shroud around your powder drop? It drives me insane that my shell plate begins to accumulate so much powder half way through a batch of ammo
Max Janszen no shroud Bud! I think it’s the black inner portion of the bullet drop die that appears to be in the powder drop die station due to the camera angle.
And what brand bullets are those? Just got 3k of BBI today.
Dan V Yes Sir they are Gallant Bullets 147gr RNFP.
Will this work on lock and load hornady???
I apologize I am not certain of that. I do not see why it wouldn't I just don't know enough about the Hornady machines.
Couple questions, I have a 750 and have realized that I've sorted all of my other start-up issues and want to pick up some speed.
1. Does the die actually push the bullet in a bit so it can ride to the next station without falling off? How sensitive is that adjustment?
2. What happens if an empty station passes through, like if your case feeder goes empty or you pull a case that primed funny?
Thanks!!
1. No, it just drops a bullet on top of the case.
2. You're screwed, you will find out once you have a squib at the range. Case feeder goes empty nothing will happen and a oddly primed case would just need to be pulled off the press.
Oh... Man.
The only thing not so effective in your process is to load completed ammo to the tray.
You really need to find a more effective way. 🤣🤣
Nice video. 👍👍
Don't use the brass lube like this!!!
Why?
@@SpartanArmament There is a risk that the amunition will not ignite. For example, use a shoe bag and spray the liquid into it without brass. Then insert the sleeves and move the bag on all sides. This way the liquid gets to the outside and not into the brass.
@@rogerzobrist4211 Yeah Bro you obviously have NO clue, LOL! Do you even reload? Lube is made typically of 99% Alcohol and Lanolin at 10:1 or 8:1 ratio. The Alcohol flashes off and the Lanolin stays behind causing no major effects on gunpowder or primers.