Exterior INSULATION Details from Matt’s House
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- Huge thanks to our www.atlasrwi.com/ for sponsoring this video!
Welcome back to the Real ReBuild project. This is my personal family home I'm building and if you've seen my videos you know I don't mess around with "standard" construction. In this video I'll show you how I'm putting a thick blanket of R-13 insulation on the entire outside of my house. More and more builders are being forced to do exterior insulation as codes progress forward. See all the details in this video!
Thanks to Rodenhouse for the cap fasteners, Senco Gun, and blades too! www.rodenhouse...
The details page for the product I'm using here: wall.atlasrwi....
Compatible Tapes: wall.atlasrwi....
Follow Matt on Instagram! / risingerbuild
or Twitter / mattrisinger
Lot's of great details here, but one important missing point for people in northern climates. Polyiso insulation is the worst choice for exterior insulation in cold climates. Polyiso is often chosen because it has the best R-value per inch, keeping wall thickness down, while being more expensive than other insulation types.
But what is often missed is that the R-values on packaging are measured at 75 degrees. So polyiso performs great when you don't really need it to (and when you are trying to keep a house cool, so it's not a bad choice in a cooling climate like Texas). But it's R-value drops massively with colder temperatures. At 40F, polyiso performs almost the same as XPS insulation, which is significantly cheaper. At 0F, XPS, EPS foam (cheaper still), and rockwool (also cheaper than polyiso), all have significantly better R-values than polyiso. I see people here in Maine put polyiso on the outside of their houses because they don't understand this. They are paying more for a worse performance than other products like EPS foam. In my climate, the same money will get you a thicker layer of EPS that will give effective performance of nearly DOUBLE the R-value. Polyiso is only useful if it will stay warm - so on exteriors of houses in warm climates, or inside (like basement interiors) in cold climates. And even then, it's only the right choice when you care about thickness. EPS and XPS still beat it when considering R-value-per-$.
Interesting. Thanks. Might reconsider a job I have with my house in CT
Nice job with "13" voice over.
I messed up on the R value when taping. 😬. Nice catch
@@buildshow you need a script supervisor. :P
I didn't notice it
Can you give us timeline.
I was falling asleep when that happened. I thought I was tripping
Matt, I have been a builder for about twenty-five years and always have tried to build superior houses, but always have been held back by people’s budgets or the companies I have worked for wouldn’t spend the money to go the extra mile. Even though they or I built a beautiful home and reasonably energy efficient they just never
Satisfied me even when I was told I built another great home. At this point in my life where I’m trying to get started totally on my own and down size and build another smaller home for my self I am so grateful to stubble across you and your enthusiasm for building super nice homes with some of the greatest quality and efficiency that I have ever come across.
Your videos have totally impressed me and gives me great hope to build homes in the neatness, energy efficient, quality etc that you do, you can tell you put a piece of you in every home as I always did
I had to tear the drywall out of one of the walls of a bedroom in my house and decided to try an experiment. Instead of putting bat insulation back into the cavities, I bought a couple of 4x8 sheets of the 2" foam insulation at HD, cut them into strips, and filled the cavities with them. Then I used spray foam to seal around the edges. I'm in Tucson AZ, and that room is the southeast corner of the house (I did this in the south wall) and has consistently been the coolest room in the house. It's AMAZING how well that insulation works, especially when it is sealed in and there is no air movement.
6:03 Bottom plate to protect the insulation:
Instead of using Lumber, use compose decking boards since its much more rot resist. You can rip the boards down into 2" strips so you don't really need a lot to go a long way.
i was wondering about that, unless you coat the wood in something. i'm sure it's dry there but, here it would be moisture city in the midwest.
Great technique in basements as well.
Videos like this are absolutely invaluable. I have an old 1970s home in Canada that's 2x4 framed and is in need of an energy retrofit. New builds are easy enough, but I've always wondered what solutions are needed to add exterior insulation to an existing home. Addressing things like the foam overhang at the sill-plate of the wall, and the zip-system for an air barrier is great info.
Matt - Absolutely LOVE your videos! I just used R-5 1" foam panels (3 layers thick) to insulate my low storage doors and it really made a huge difference during a cold spell we had last week. My 18 yo daughter helped me cut them and stick on the back sides of the doors and she got a really good appreciation for what it took to make them close tight against the jambs.
Interested to see how he insulates the garage. Every house I’ve been in, any room above the garage is always cold in the winter
I’m relying on my asbestos siding over my old shiplap siding as my barrier. This channel is really helping me shop and price stuff.
I would love to see a CAD detail of these walls!!! Stunning construction
It is so satisfying to see you build your own house using the superior skills, knowledge and passion for perfection that you have developed in the 25 years you have been a builder. A house is made with materials and labor but I like to think that those who apply their minds and hands to the task imbue the form and structure with their character and spirit as well. Insofar as this is true, you bless your domain for yourself and all those who will come after you for generations to come.
"My 2 inch panel is R...THIRTEEN."
Yeah, that sound drop was a bit funny...
That's what you get when you overdub in production due to an error during filming :)
Hi
Made me laugh
Matt, when your done with your house series, can you please give a summary review on the cost breakdown for all the parts and pieces you used???
He cant be specific because a lot of the products are sponsored
LVL studs, rock wool, zip (2 layers on roof) shit loads of tape (50 a roll?) Hundreds of pounds of specialty screws... He's paying 2 to 3 times standard framing cost, not including labor.
Yes Matt, Steve B did an awesome job in Episode 6 of the Boston build showing on his architect plan, 3 examples of how Rvalue is affected. I have learned so much recently from Steve B. architect. The whole wall is not just the cavity but opaque frame, windows and doors. Whole wall could be about 60%, with opaque frame being 20% and windows and doors being 20%. What is "misleading" in the industry is that contractors will tell you they are providing a wall of R23, say if ICF, BUT they Do Not Tell you that is is Only the Cavity they are talking about. STeve goes to prove that an R23 "wall" is probably only an R13 once you calculate the loss of R value from the Windows/doors (R3-7) and opaque frame R value is 1R per inch, so 5.5inch stud is 5.5R value. Windows, doors and opaque framing significantly reduce the overall "whole wall" R value. So don't be fooled when a contractor tells you he can give you an R23 wall.....ask him how he arrived at that R value and challenge him on low R values for window and doors and opaque framing. Thanks Steve B and Matt cheers from Atlantic Canada, Prince Edward Island. I am getting ready for an extension mostl likely in 2024 due to challenges of finding the right builder and very expensive to build due to materials costly, and a line up with drafts person and getting a permit....not enough people with such a high demand in building homes here. In the meantime, I get to learn a lot to prep for dealing with the trades people as I act as the "contractor" to make a team that will pay attention to sequencing of water, air, vapour and thermal tightness with a thick blanket on envelop of full basement ICF and 3 storey high. 🙃 🇨🇦🍁
I built my house and moved in on 1990 . I’ve got vinyl siding , 1” cell text “brand” , half inch plywood , 2x6 studs with fiberglass insulation , 1/2 in cell text and sheet rock . All my ceilings have 1 “ cell text plus max fiberglass . I live in upstate NY . The only problem is the 1/2” cell text wasn’t stiff enough and after a few years you can tell where some of my screws are .
Take a shot every time Matt says "thicc blanket" in this series XD
We normally take a shot every time he says "tenacious"
Right thick thick like your wife
Bong a beer if he references a Gore-tex or down jacket.
@@SnakeHandler-g7u
You want to die?
Stay home if you sicc, Come over if you thicc...
Good job !
The per-made insulation sandwich makes insulation super easy.
In the future we may see insulation panels that have air channels against moisture fluctuation. Just like the plastic bump membranes for the foundation.
Passive House! 😀👍🏿 The house is looking Amazing and love the Info.
Every time you do the "ON THE BUILD SHOW" I always smile haha. Good way to end your videos
I went with the Atlas AC Foam III product (also 2") for the purpose of stuccoing over the top. 3 years later, it's performing great along with upgrading all windows to dual pane. 70+ year old home that's become super efficient. with a 62F night and 98F day my home stays @78-80F unless we're cooking for any length of time inside. exterior insulation is a huge improvement and poly iso is the way to go for R value.
With the stucco, I used a vinyl starter track (like a weep screed) for the panels. It's perforated so if any water gets behind the stucco, it'll percolate down and out through the bottom of the track. I prefer this over trying to make it air tight, even in a desert climate.
Risinger is going to cool the whole house with an ice cube.
and heat it with a light bulb
Hahaha
@@hpw59 Risinger will certainly use LED lights. So candle.
if I send my wide over, it'll be a freezer
Hi Matt Last two houses we built we used the black polyiso. I think it is a fiber glass impregnated paper on both sides. What we used for cutting was a wallboards buddy drywall cutter. Score both sides and it snaps like a sheet of drywall. We were using inch and a half material then horizontal 2 X 3's finished with board and batten siding
The over the top R-13 voice over is fantastic!
Wow. This was super helpful. I'm in a situation where the prior 1970s construction is a dumpster fire with the vapor barrier against the drywall. This might be the solution to fixing it.
Great video and Matt keep up the Nerd talk because in the long run it lowers our electric bill. I live Northeast of Bakersfield and it is very hot in the Summer so thank you for the science.
The house is really looking good. Love the rafter tails and the insulation is next level. You've got a jacket over a windbreaker.
Thank you. I've taken your knowledge and used it on my house as well as informing my customers on their additions. 👍🤘
Risinger, you are changing the world for the better! Keep up the great work. Wish it didn’t take so much time to create great content as it does to consume it.
The perfect wall! Learned that from you. Thanks for showing this, Matt.
Polyisocyanurate in the south on the warm side makes sense. In the north, many of us believe the labeled R value. However, as I considered 2 or 3 in. of exterior c.i. I stumbled into the pentane condensation phase diagram and the semi-definitive studies by NRCA '09, '14; and BSR '13. With 2-in. exterior c.i. and R-13 in the stud cavity, I anticipated thermal performance of R4 to R5 per inch. Overnight it would be lower yet. While I ditched the idea and bought 3-in of EPS Type 9, I have mused over putting the polyiso on the inside (still thick enough to prevent summer condensation) . That appears to put the Class 1 vapor retarder in the right place for us Yankees, and we can put our interior furring over the polyiso in any direction as a screw base for the wall board and have clear voids for utilities. But there must be a fly in the ointment, otherwise wouldn't we already be doing this?
Man this house is gonna be so well done. The bug screen detail is awesome please show us the finished screen, i didn't understand exactly how that is being used but I like it! Keep the videos coming, we want to know all the crazy ideas you have to add quality to your house. I waterproofed all my interior drywall to save from ever having flood damage or bugs get in my walls. I foamed every hole in the studs with bug foam. It stuff like that I love to see! I cant wait to learn more from you!
Man I wish I could afford to have this guy build me a house
Lets hope code continues to demand better and better building. Regulation spurs innovation, at least in this space. Without more stringent code every few years we'd still be building houses like we were in the 50's.
@@drdroop2163 what?! Regulations make houses more expensive and less affordable. What do you think it will happen with people who can’t meet the regulation standards? They go homeless or they will be punish by regulators.
My house was built in the late forties as a lake summer cottage on the IL-WI border, there is more newspaper thank insulation in my walls. My living room averages a 10mphs crosswind in winter. So I second that sentiment.....
@@drdroop2163 regulation never spurs innovation. Remember, government does not make anything cheaper or faster.
Missed opportunity to do 3X code.
first video of yours ive seen, 3 mins in I already subed. Well done. I think I can learn a lot from this guy
Matt. You spared no expense on this home
I have learned so much from watching your videos. Matt, all the in-depth knowledge you have is great. You do things not just because they work, but you have the knowledge of why they work, and what will happen if not done in certain orders or other forms. I have a question. Why not put the foam up in two 1” layers. That way the seam could be overlapped. I’m pretty sure you will see the joints with an infrared camera by just doing it in one layer.
I like the idea and Im sure it will create an efficient home. However I believe that and ICF home would have given a higher R value with a cheaper price tag.
The question that comes to mind more than the cost of adding this to a home, is the time to recoup the cost in energy savings. As a homeowner, I am concerned about the total cost, but I'm more interested in whether or not I'll be saving money in the long run. Will it take 5 years living in the home to offset the cost of additional insulation in energy savings? 10 years? 50 years?
Adding energy efficiency is awesome, and I like geeking out over the specs, but if it takes too long to equilibrate the costs, ultimately it's a waste.
Ding ding. You are correct. There is a certain amount of money for sure. But everyone knows this is overkill. Just for rich people.
Poly iso has much lower R-value in the north. Poly-iso's R-value decreases below 50F, while polystyrene (XPS) R value increases as it is exposed to lower temperatures.
And you don't need to worry about the electrical conductivity of your insulation.
www.texasinspector.com/files/Unusual-Behavior-of-Radiant-Barrier-Materials-in-Fire-Causation.pdf
R-13
Just upgraded my old senco 14.4 volt. It runs off 18 v Ryobi now. Bout to put up some drywall. They know what's up. Great video man!
This dude is going to need to turn on the AC if his kids don't blow out their birthday candles fast enough
If he doesn't suffocate first.
A fart will smell for days
@@robstephens that's why you ventilate
@@robstephens He'll most likely put in an HRV/ERV system to exchange fresh air without thermal loss
@@robstephens that's what ERV/HRV are for.
Foil however has more to do with protecting the sheets from the sun as they deteriorate quickly in sunlight, also at least here in Finland you don't need that sheet behind it if you seal the seams with nonexpanding urethane sealant that is it replaces the vapor barrier.
The zip sheeting is the main shear strength, acting as a air barrier is an added function or so I understand it
Why did you use Atlas Poly-Iso instead of the Rockwool? Thank you for the education Matt! We are currently designing and planning our forever home in Idaho and your videos are a huge help.
i think there is rockwool under the zip sheets. unless there is aluminum faced rockwool, i'm guessing that's why. just for the aluminum for the radiant insulation/reflection
I am guessing that as well, especially with the display of flammability in the other video. However at the end i suppose it also comes down to budget.
I'm pretty sure it depends which direction the house is facing. I put the foil on the sunny side and the Rockwool on the cold side. same R-value just different refraction ability under the siding. (with airgap)
Thanks for the great video!
Really loved how you went over all the details in this one. Great to learn how you dealt with protecting the exterior insulation by using a ripped 2 x 4. Looking forward to the window install video!
Ps. Also great to hear you explain the differences between installing high-performance insulation in hot versus cold climates. There is a lot you can find regarding cold climates but for some reason people think that air-conditioning bills aren’t as problematic as heating bills. 😉
Excellent stuff
I really like your videos very informative. My concern is sealing the house too much causing other issues with off gassing from your finishings furniture etc. now you have to have an air exchanger so costs just go way up.
Given the cost of an ERV, the utility bill savings from having a well sealed house will pay for that ERV in less than 5 years.. Possibly as quick as a year.
Matt, I used thermal ISO in 1980 on a condo project at 8500 ft elevation and in 2015 saw them removing the siding because the thermal ISO had shrunk from 2" to 1 1/4" on the south side exposures leaving the siding (lap cedar siding) flapping on the nails in the breeze.
My 70s house in the northeast has an R7 in my 2x4 stud bays. I’m looking to add this exterior blanket to my house in the future.
This is almost exactly the same system I used on my timber frame. I fixed mine so there was a screen at the bottom and top and hot air can vent out under the gable.
in oregon if you dont have eave vents/vented bird blocks, the under side of the eave plywood molds everytime..
the temp of the air is drastically different under the eave than above or around it.
Should be noted that polyiso R value drops dramatically in colder climates. At 25F it is only around R4 per inch.
Any possibility of moisture buildup between the foam and zip sheeting?
Can someone explain to me, who is the audience for this video?
I get it its for the builders and homeowner whos building their house.
But at what price range. if I'm building 200,000 house I don't see a possible way to fit 2x code insulation on the budget for 2000+sqft house. On top of that, he bought the existing home.
is Matts spending financially justifiable or is he just spending for educational purposes and sponsors?
And at what would be the estimated cost of the home that is built with Matts method as a normal person whos building he/her first home.
p/s not hating on Matt loves he's videos
gotta love that coverage
Awesome stuff Matt! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Great building science and lots of nice details
I actually saw a video on the difference between an airsealed house versus one with a similar amount of insulation but not airsealed. The airtight (sealed) house used considerably less energy, presumably because of less convection. That is less air movement with a resultant lower heat loss.
Hey Matt! I thought you loved rockwool, why'd you decide to go with ISO?
Polyiso. A dramatic drop off in performance below, what, 50 deg F. OK for a warm climate like TX, or in a basement where year round soil temps are moderate. But not good for cold climes. Not new news, but just adding.
It is fun to watch Matt trick out every detail and air/water-proof every single seam of his house. But I am beginning to wonder if the drive for maximum performance is beginning to be counterproductive. For one thing, with the building down to its foundation, Matt had FAR more flexibility to create a dramatically different design that (while not necessarily fitting into the neighborhood) could have yielded better functionality. Secondly, top of the line HVAC systems (fully variable furnace and condenser) are so efficient these days that even a house not built to these specs (merely built well) will use a tiny amount of electricity even during peak heat here in TX. I imagine there is no way this kind of build would ever pay for itself under those circumstances. But I am curious what else Matt has up his sleeve as this build progresses.
Honest question. Why zip and another exterior insulation rather than just using zip R?
It seems like a lot of labor, but I don't know the cost of either lol.
I was curious about this also but my guess is that he wanted the insulation on the exterior side of the sheathing to capture the radiant quality of the specific insulation used. However, I would ask is there a reason to use an ext. insulation without a radiant barrier outboard of sheathing? This is in contrast to the Zip-R which has the insulation between the weather barrier and the studs.
I find it weird to have vapor barrier in between two layers of thermal insulation.
ME TOO MATT! Zone 4 4 inches iso, 6 full inches dense pack cellulose
4:03. I only watch your channel for the nerdiness ;)
I put 1/2" o c pink s f on the inside under the drywall and over 6 mil poly. Only regret is that I didn't put thicker foam on. I'm in the great white north where u keep the heat in !!
Would definitely like to see how you installed the 1x4 at the bottom with the bug screen, etc...
Matt, it looks like the soffits are not vented. I thought they had to be. How will you get proper roof ventilation without soffit vents? Not saying you are wrong, I'm just a DIYer and am curious if there is an alternative way. Thanks for all the awesome information! Keep teaching and bringing all these awesome, informative videos!
I’d use rock wool board just due to its fire rating that is if anyone retailed it by the bag. Most places only order it by the pallet.
Just remember there are a few different products but in general comfort board is twice the density of the in wall insulation. So 2" cost the same as 3.5" in wall. The in wall is sold at my local big box hardware stores but not the exterior insulation.
I wish I could find videos on best practices for a hot and dry climate.
* Tmiranda* look up Premier Building System or R Control RUclips. They supply Western states on projects all the time.
David Grounds Thank you, I will definitely look it up.
A+ for protecting that tree behind you.
Nice exterior details.
I’m not a builder, so here comes a stupid question. Has anyone installed windows with a kick-out at the top? Look at the windows in the pilot house bridge of a boat or the cab of an airport control tower to see what I mean. Benefits in a structure might be: No water collecting at the window frame bottom; no interior reflections for better transparency looking out; and the exterior surface will stay cleaner longer.
The cost of that far out weighs the benefits.
Great progress! Looks awesome and should perform amazing. I hope you increased the rear slider to 8'!! That had to be done IMHO!!
So cool.
Awesome detail and craftsmanship you don't get that on your everyday job
Everyone should look into annualized thermal inertia and WOFATI building!!
Great video!
Matt!!!! You're Awesome!!!!!!!! your'e not building a house, you're building a submarine.
Wow! That’s amazing! I’m doing a rebuild on an old Victorian mansion on my channel. I’m definitely going to be using some of these insulation ideas.
Can you just use a 2x6 or 2x8 base plate to receive the extra thickness of the polyiso? Instead of screwing that ripped 2x2 onto the face of your base plate?
It will be cool to then see the detail where the rain-screen cavity terminates below the windows and at the underside of the roof. With the trim, where will there be some space for that upper opening to create that convective air current from below. Hard to visualize.
everytime you show so much interting thing! I really thanks and i am trying to learn.Question: in italy it is almeost impossible to find anything like the fantastic H beans you showed made with osb and 2by4.
is it possibe to self build them or havy you any link from wich i could find some data how to make them in a way theyare treally robust? thank you in advance and again for all you teach ansd share it is unbeliavably value for people like me in country where for some stupid reason framing is considered a kind of "campers" way of buuildings. Wish you best to you your family and all USA to get out from Covid. I am writing from Milano italy deep hotspot of virus in world...not the best record to be proud of ;) god bless ya'll!!! christian
Let see some rodent deterring details, I know that's been a thought with the way this house looked at the start. I have a cabin that we are talking about new/rebuilding and we have a heck of a time with mice.
Why didn't you use the zip r sheathing instead of the energyshield? Seems like a 3 in 1? Love your videos!
Because sponsorship?
matt, i like you, i like your work, i like your videos but last video i made a negative (but constructive) criticism
this is the second one unfortunately, radiant barriers doesnt work like you say they do, theres nothing like reflecting it back, radiation doesnt work in that way
every object that has a temperature (meaning above 0 Kelvin; literally every object in real life!) will radiate heat, a real radiant barriers are meant to heat up and dont emit it (to the inside of the house),
im a mechanical engineer i can write you a book about this stuff but ask this to some experts they will explain it better than me commenting here
it works like a heat shield, like they put on catalytic converters and exhausts on motorcycles. whether this actually works on a home like this or not i have no idea but the concept is to reflect the radiant heat from outside the building away from the interior of the house. i think it's the every little bit helps method.
Yes I believe you are correct. The radiant barrier in this case is going to be the exact same temperature as the outside air (since it's touching) and will conduct the heat as any other material to/from the inside. If the siding is a dark color and you're in a warm climate, it might help a bit to not absorb the radiation from the siding.
From Wikipedia: A radiant barrier is a type of building material that reflects thermal radiation and reduces heat transfer. If shiny metals and foils don't reflect heat, how does a heat dish work?
@@frotobaggins7169 yes aluminum is used as a heat shield but not to reflect it back,
-in your example; exhaust is hot and it is steel, steel has higher radiation emittance, they put aluminum sheet in front of it, aluminum heats up from the steel and in the end instead of getting the radiation from the steel (which feels hot on your skin too) you will be receiving the radiation from the aluminum which is way less than the one from steel,
-so you should be thinking the radiation heat transfer like a domino effect, you block the previous domino's heat in order to insulate yourself from it
@@seamusriley3532 buddy you cant break the law of thermodynamics, you will be reducing the emissivity rate of the material, of course remaning suns radiation energy will get either absorbed or reflected back, you are only dealing with radiation transmission there which is based on the surface facing towards the house not to outside
What about all the fixings for the polyiso punching through the zip system insulation layer? Will that have an effect on the air sealing of the house as a whole?
In many of your videos, you explain the negatives of rigid foam panels: fire hazard, insects can burrow in, non-permeable to vapor so underlying framing can mold/rot, loss of R value over time, shrinkage making joint spaces expand. So, why not exterior insulation with Roxul?
Why not using ThermalBuck?
It looks like the insulation board is right up against the ZIP System, I thought in previous videos you have suggested to leave a gap to let it air/dry to prevent mold building up?
I'm curious about this too. @matt risinger ?
If you watch the videos the air gap is almost always in front of the insulation not behind it...
Love the voice over :)
Just watched this a second time. Very enjoyable thermal nerdiness. It would seem that the foil on the insulation would make it like a faraday cage, making it difficult for a cell signal to get in and out. Am I wrong here?
It's a shame you didn't make an exterior heat map of the house you tore down, and then compare it to a heat map of this house. That would have been fascinating.
He did a walkthrough like this on the 'Insulation 2.0 - 3 Steps to Re-Insulate' episode.
I really want to find someone here in Austin that can put this type of continuous insulation when installing my hardboard. So many installers don't want to do the insulation or only want to do new builds.
Matt, I am looking at "outie" window bucks that appeared to be getting covered up with foam,, without any Zip tape or liquid flash to coat the wood/ seal the RO/ maintain the integrity of the air barrier. The Zip is also your final defense against water, so if what I am seeing is true, then this is a glaring omission or defect, in my experience. Wrapping the face of the foam into the bucks/ RO is a poor substitute for a complete water barrier layer, at the sheathing plane. I do trust that at least, you will do a head flashing from Zip to outside of the window trim. With all the fastener penetrations in the foam (which does not close around the fastener body), you absolutely have the possibility of water wicking back along the fasteners to the Zip/ back of foam interface. I am totally committed to exterior continuous foam (first job 10 years ago), but I cannot risk using this method unless it is applied over a guaranteed self-sealing membrane. I simply have not seen data or tests on the Zip that will provide this guarantee. On our project, we did liquid applied over 100% of exterior sheathing, set the windows (with special detailing) and then did two thirty minute water hose tests on the assembly (window directly, then moved up on the wall above), before adding any foam.
Another observation: Last job (Front Range Colorado) of mine to have roof foam stop at the wall line was 20 years ago, and I will not repeat that. It turned out to be penny wise and pound foolish to not insulate the overhangs. The issue is maintaining roof temperature and conditions all the way to the drip edge. Having the overhang go cold is an invitation to ice dams, and Dr Joe has shown that solar heating of the walls can warm an uninsulated overhang, also contributing to ice damming. You need to make more clear that you are able to do certain things in the Austin climate that would be inadvisable in a lot of other locales. And there are ways to frame the overhangs that I believe to be a better trade-off between economy, structural concerns and the disruption of the thermal envelope. I take exception to the amount of "stuff" that is woven into the continuous layers here, now not so continuous.
the last video he did windows had a few layers with prosoco silicone, flashing and various tapes/jackets. also the house is made of particle board, i'm guessing this area doesn't get much cold or water. where as here in Missouri half of this stuff would condensate or rot.
EDIT: what spray on sheathing did you guys use? why wouldn't ZIP work?
You sound like a pro . Can you explain me what he is doing, looking for another fool with money or what? He wants straight , energy efficient walls but they were invented 40 or more years ago something like thermasteel panel with R35 . The only problem with them they are cheap and easy to be put together
@@andreycham4797 Since 1971, part-time while going through MIT, full time since, in all sorts of construction/ roles (mostly res design/ build). I actually am very much dialed in to what Matt is intending, but I think he misses some of the critical (at least under certain conditions/ climates) details. Unlike the haters, I think he falls a bit short sometimes. SIPs, whether steel or wood facings, have a whole set of issues themselves, that for me are harder to address adequately. One is lack of stud space for mechanicals (do not underestimate that factor), another is total long-term sealing between panels, and another is the loss of flexibility as regards on-site fabrication and alteration.
As for history, we were doing pretty advanced stuff 40 years ago (even full foam overlay roofs), but the building sciences now are far more rigorous and lead to far better overall performance, particularly as regards durability, than what most guys "knew" and built back then. My pet peeve is those who latch onto a key concept or buzzword, without proper understanding of the whole of the problem. Very few technologies or methods (well, actually there are NONE) can be totally "stand-alone", as the context is everything; fully integrated solutions are the only solutions.
@@cdoublejj I did look at earlier videos, and saw the liquid applied all over the bucks, sealing to the ZIP. It appears that this was NOT done on a number of window penetrations here: I think that is a big risk factor. I certainly would (and do not) fail to do a complete seal of all wood, in one monolithic, observable and testable layer. In my work life, I find it is the things you don't do that cause the grief, not the things you do (if you are reasonably competent and knowledgable, at least).
As far as longevity, 10 years in Colorado for a project far more complex than this, in what most amateurs would consider as the same construction (down to 2" Atlas foil face polyiso), but with a much more rigorous 100% fluid applied self-sealing membrane, and absolutely no mold rot leaks, water damage etc etc. Do it right, it is basically the "Perfect Wall", per Dr Joe. And no one pays me anything to hear me yap, or even to move product. Just my observations from a long life in the business.
If you look closely, you can see the flashing is there.
Lol did he over fasten when he did the demo??
at 6:07 you show the bottom of the 2x2 ledge that's protecting the bottom of the foam. It looks like, now, the bottom of that 2x2 is exposed to splashback. You may want to consider a fluid applied application to the bottom of that piece of wood. Yes, the bottom f your foam is now protected, but now the wood is exposed and subject to rot. Maybe I missed if these were pressure treated.
pretty sure he uses prosoco fluid applied in that detail to avoid just that.
@@steffenpelz7114 I don't see that detail on the wood ledger board. It's on the concrete but the board itself is exposed underneath to splashback.
@@sketchapp3783 dang...I see now what you are saying...did he miss it?
@@steffenpelz7114 not sure, since the prosoco was done when the sheathing was put up, earlier, then he added that ledger piece for the polyiso. Curious of the rationale there or if it was just a miss.
The heating and cooling savings will pay for themselves in just under 10 thousand years😂
Thanks for this series Matt! Very informative.
Question on the insulation detail at the bottom- In some places it looks like there's a new concrete 'curb' formed out below the 2x strip at the bottom of the foam (and other places not). If you were pouring a new slab, would you set the sill plates back the thickness of the foam, or let the ensemble hang out over the edge of the slab?
Why didn't you use Rockwool there since its fire proof and has a good R value?
Looking good
Use plastic fasteners with metal you have a break if your insolation