Thank Jason for this review, I use this about 2 months on my Pecron E1500LFP and really enjoy it. I want to see the review of the Etaker M2000 because the size of this unit.
👍 Nice job, thanks. These will sell a ton. The thing about the Back Charge capability of the Ecoflow is you can bypass buying a MPPT charger and peripherals for an external battery bank by using Back Charge while the Power Station is connected to solar panels and directly pump that power through. Saves having an ugly "spaghetti" setup on a board or wall. Same with an existing battery bank set-up when there is no sun. More companies need to follow suit to bring prices down.
AT LAST! I’ve been researching for a long time as to how to combine the solar and alternator outputs simultaneously specifically for power stations. Most devices prioritise completely one or the other input and then output algorithms for lithium/agm etc batteries. Thank you Jason for introducing me to this product. Next problem is trying to find one in the UK! Cheers..
Great, another product to buy! This one fits nicely between the Pecron and the EcoFlow and the efficiency is pretty good for the price. Now, if only one of these companies (or maybe some others as well) would make that all in one voltage reducer for hooking up a solar panel or array with a higher voltage (70 VDC to 250 VDC) to either a 28 VDC output or 56 VDC output to fit pretty much any solar generator on the market. Great review as always and thanks for reviewing!
Bluetti put their voltage reducer on hold for now... it was meant to take 150v and convert it down to 55 volts or something. Maybe they will release it someday.
The motion automatic on/off mode is awesome. One of these in my RV power cabinet is a perfect fit for my application but I don’t want to have to flip the switch. I’m definitely looking into these guys thanks! It also look like a pretty clean design. I’m quite impressed!
I'd just stick with something like this for the smaller power stations: amzn.to/41JRUPh It has an adjustable output so you can set it to the voltage you need. I test it in depth in this video: ruclips.net/video/I78RxjRXTn4/видео.html
Great review as usual Jason. Very interesting product. Really wish they boosted the voltage to 60V as that's a common input limit for med/large power stations. Doing so would lower the current to about 17A, which better matches those same power stations typical MPPT current limit of 15A. Less current would result in less heat and better efficiency. Hopefully they update V2 with higher output voltage.
The Ecoflow only makes sense if you have an Ecoflow model since it proprietary. I like the extra power available from the solar on this one. Kinda a unique design!
Thanks Jason for another great product and review. Imo, it's definitely worth it when a charge is needed for a fridge or solar generator needs a boost up in adverse conditions or to make it thru the night. Now let me look under these cushions and find some change 😂 to purchase.
This is a great product. I have a similar solution in my DIY camper van, but using a discrete LiFePo battery. I use the dual-input (solar+alternator) charger from Renogy. They have 30A and 50A versions. No fan needed, so they are silent. The added benefit is when your house battery is full, the Solar will trickle charge your car’s starter battery. That is great for RVs that might be parked unused for extended periods. Do you have a review on the dual-input Renogy chargers? If not, you should do one. There is one other solution I’ve seen. My daughter has a power station from Jackery that has two inputs for charging. Solar is attached to one, and the other goes to her cigarette lighter socket. But it isn’t very fast. Maybe some of the other brands also have dual-input built in. Anyway, good video and a great product review.
I have a Kisae DMT 1250 DC to DC dual input battery charger meant for car charging with solar input. It's an AWESOME battery charger but... Those DC to DC chargers don't work well for power stations since they output 14v for a battery, you need high voltage to charge a power station quickly. That's why these converters designed for power stations work so well. 42v will allow much faster charging than 14v.
Very solid review of a very useful device. Personally, I have no need for it, due to just using 12v LiFePO4 for car camping, and my Kisae DMT-1230 which I found due to Jason's DMT-1250 review long ago, meets my needs well. It doesn't combine car and solar inputs, just switches between them depending upon whether the car is on. Its output can be set to 5, 10, 20, or 30A. Basically, I got it to stop limping along using 100W out of the 10A fused car 12V lighter outlet.
If the automobile is equipped with a high output alternator, say 240 amp or so, it looks possible that running a second line (parallel) from the battery/alternator would provide 13.4x20=268 watts of additional charging on the solar line, so total could be as high as 500+268=768 watts of charging with automobile alone. And then, if one wanted to get closer to the 1000 watt limit, find a 20 amp boost converter that boosts the second line up to a higher voltage of 24 volts. This may have an efficiency cost in the boost converter, and heat dissipation would need to be designed in.
Jason, one thing to add to your list of uses for these type of devices is to run/charge power stations from a EV vehicle. Lots of stuff online where one hooks this up to their EV 12 volt battery and the inverter/charger in the EV is used to charge the power station. Most EV inverter chargers have a much higher output than a typical combustion engine alternator.
Thanks for the the video! It is very useful! I recently bought a DJI Power 1000. I am wondering if I can use ETAKER F1000 or any other device that you have tested to get a high wattage fast charger during driving for my DJI power 1000. I can't find anything about car fast charging for the DJI Power online.
One thing to check is what gauge of wires are between the alternator and the battery also in older Ford campers ie my old 74 Ford inside the regulator was a wire that was only 18 gauge and when pulling a lot of power like when you killed the battery or when you boosted another vehicle it would burn off I bought a few new alternator and regulator before I talked to an old Ford mechanic who told me about the Problem and the next time it went I replaced the wire with a larger one and no more problems GMC had a fusible link that would do the same mechanics would change the link a 10 dollar fix and change the alternator and regulator around a 300 dollar bill and all it needed was the fusible link started buying the link from my GMC dealer and saved a lot of money so if you put one of these on your vehicle and your charging system dies don't just go to the repair shop get the components checked out and when you find the problem fix it since it's hard find a good mechanic so far all the mechanics I've found the fixes have been just being in the right place at the right time
There is also the Renogy dcdc50 but only with 500 watt output. Also trickle charges your starter battery from solar. We should be able to connect this to a standard mppt like a VictronConnect 100/70 and charge standard LFP batteries as well.
I don't see why that wouldn't work, probably better off just using a DC to DC 12v battery charger though to get better efficiency numbers if you want to just charge a standalone battery
I want to add a little capacity to my Bluetti AC 200l power station. Would you recommend a setup like this ( with the etaker) or perhaps a system like you built using a step up voltage converter? Thank you for your excellent videos and all your help. 👍🙏
Two questions: 1. Could you use an XT60(I) Y connector to power both inputs to an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max to get the full 1000W charging? 2. Could you hook a battery to the solar input and if so, what is the output wattage for a 12.8V battery?
THXs great review. I can already see how this device is a solution for some of my issues.....for example charging the solar generator from my big battery bank during the night without using the inverter. Jason, You say charging from the Etaker through the DC input of the solar generator.That´s OK with the charging port of the car but what about the solar charging port ? That would mean there is no MPPT controller for the solar panel ???? Please could You explain ?
This F1000 is designed to plug into the DC/PV input port on your power station to charge it. That charging power can be sourced from either a 12v battery or solar panels at the same time. The F1000 allows you to connect both a 12v battery and solar panels and combine their power into the DC / PV input port on your power station.
@@Jasonoid OK THXs, to confirm in general.....device Max. 1000 W and on the Solar Generator PORT whatever DC/PV Mppt capacity...... furthermore on the 500W car input > Automatic Shut Down when below 12V and restart above 12,5V @ StandBy 50 mA.....Automatic Engine Detector can be DISABLED ? That is a great feature... shuts down my 15kWh Main to 500W when the Cell is at 3 Volt. Most likely if ever that is not going to happen that often because next morning 3000W solar on the Main come Online and in absolute worse case..... that´s when my Gen 3200W with electric start comes online..... still tweeking a little...has bluetooth start but no voltage detection. I guess that will void my warranty. But who counts on warranty too much these day anyway? I pretend to run this in tandem with the Pecron 3600 on 1 PV port and another 1000W solar on the other PV port. Hopefully this will allow me to run Air Condition full time
Both inputs should be rated up to 60V in my opinion, idk if anyone noticed but the Auto industry really should be switching over to 48V systems, home storage/inverter setups really shouldn't be using anything less than 48V, and it would be nice if the solar input could match what most power stations handle so you have the ability to swap your setups around without having to reconfigure your array. Other than those 2 things this looks awesome, especially for those with power stations that only have a single input 👍 I'm hoping EcoFlow is paying attention and adds some features/inputs like this for the "XT60 version" of their car charger (which btw during the labor day sales I saw as low as $199 with coupons).
Another great review, Jason - just ordered! This will work perfect to power my Anker C1000. Does the incoming voltage of the solar panel need to be in a certain range? And any tips or lessons learned from running 6AWG to your canopy? Thanks!
Solar voltage range is 12-48 volts. Using a larger wire will keep you from getting any voltage drop. That's the only downside is the stock wiring is a little undersized. When wiring my truck I went from the engine bay, down under the truck along the frame and then up through the back via the tail light mounting holes. It's worked well and wasn't too difficult. It took probably 26 feet of wiring.
Did you put the XT90 connector on the 6AWG wire, or using something inbetween? I just ordered 6AWG wire and terminals for my battery, but trying to figure out what connector can handle 6AWG to patch to the unit itself. Thanks!
Great thanks! Side note - I’d love to see a video of common connectors that pair with various AWG wire. Still learning and that would be helpful to improve search results, as searching “6AWG connectors” didn’t get me very far. It might be too much of a newbie topic for your audience, but sharing in case you see any merit. Thanks again
It all depends what you are wanting to accomplish. The Etaker is more affordable and allows for dual inputs. If you want to charge from solar and your alternator at the same time, only the Etaker can do that. The Bluetti has both high and low voltage output so it's compatible with more power stations, small and large models.
The XT60 input jacks are rated for a max of 30 amps. The 12V input will see 45 amps, which doesn't instill confidence in their engineering. This is basically 2 simple boost converters of
The input is an XT90. Also those cheap converters burn up at any reasonable wattage. A $25 part won't come near the performance of these solutions. These are metal, they have built in cooling solutions and are designed specifically for this purpose.
i have the AC200max in my self built van conversion. I am totally confused when it comes to electrical. will this work to charge my bluetti while driving? i have portable solar but only use when stationary.
Yes, this allows you to charge from your van starter battery while driving. Since the AC200max has one DC charging port, you should be able to connect both the car charging and solar into this unit and charge your AC200max.
I have the bluetti ac200max, 500w of solar and a 90a alternator. I don't really understand the input voltage of my power station. It says 10-145v. Will this will work for me? If so, I'll buy it because if I have 3 cloudy days in a row, my bluetti is bottoming out.
One thing seems a bit confusing, why does the input of the solar panel go through this car charger first and then connect to the power station? Can't the solar panel just be connected to the power station??
If your power station only has one DC charging port, then this devices allows you to combine both solar and car charging into one. Without this device you'd have to choose solar or car charging and not get both.
@@Jasonoid Thanks for the quick reply- I have some 2AWG from another project if it come to it. I tried solar and there's just so many cons to it, this seems to be a better choice. Thanks for this video.
Because a brand name matters more than input and output specs? Just read the specs of your Ecoflow, the specs of this, and figure out whether it does what you want.
@EfficientRVer Because that's what I currently own and am interested in real world results. That's why he tested it on two devices and responded to my comment about doing that testing I mentioned.
@@Jasonoid I just bought an Eco-Worthy 200 watt panel with Open Circuit Voltage of 23.7. In theory I could double it. And I don't know the answer to this, but on a cloudy day when you are getting 1/2 or 1/3 of what you get on good day, has your voltage gone down, your amperage gone down or both?
Boosting the voltage won't give you any additional power. If you put the numbers into the power equation (Volts X amps = wattage) you just swap voltage for amperage. Volts go up, amps come down. The reason you need to boost a 12v battery to get high power is because power stations can't take high amperage. In order to get 500w at 12v, it requires ~40 amps. Power stations limit power to around 8 amps @ 12v. Thats why these boost converters are useful. For your solar panel, power will be 20v @ 10 amps = 200w if tried to boost it up, you'd lose more power through conversion losses than just connecting up the solar panel on its own.
Thank you for your review, Jason. I have this and did extensive testing with this. Both charging my redodo lifepo4 batteries and my blueetti ac70 power station. It seems to limit the current draw to 19-20A from my CRV alternator and won't get beyond 260W at all settings for me. My car battery voltage is 14.4 while testing this. I have the same experience using my battery as power source. I have videos of my testing. Anyone have any ideas ?
Could be getting a bit of voltage drop through the stock wiring. The CRV also has a pretty small alternator so I'm not sure it would handle the full 500w setting. Using a larger wire size should help get more power, espeically from a standalone battery.
@@Jasonoid The major reason I've been so interested in these dc chargers lately is because I recently had a 3 day power outage not long ago and the weather was crap. I want to have the ability to use my car as a generator ( I don't really want to buy one of those regular gas/propane generators, too loud) to supplement power to my DPU
I have a 220 amp altenator on my truck. Is that enough to run at 500 watts? Do you have suggestions for what size alt will power at the 4 levels. I just ordered the 500 watt pecron dc charger.
In this video ( ruclips.net/video/I78RxjRXTn4/видео.html ) I go over using a Victron DC to DC converter that puts out near 30volts. That's probably your best bet: amzn.to/41JRUPh
Take a look at the Kisae DMT-2430. While it doesn't combine car + solar, it switches between them as the car goes on/off. The nominal 24V output can be set to various standard or custom voltages, including a setting of 29.2v which is the max recommended for LiFePO4 24v batteries, but would also be great for a power station input limited to 31v max. You can choose between 5, 10, 20, and 30A output.
Even the ecoflow one too. If you limit the wattage to match your alternator, then there should be no problem with any of the devices (idk if pecron has wattage limits). Other than that, the only other "issue" with these devices is if they are on/working when the user doesn't want it to. Ecoflow has the starting voltage slider. This has 12.5v starting voltage.
@@Jasonoid MF.. i saw your other video.. you made me buy the Pecron 500w... haha, but great content! i could have bought an unknown brand from aliexpress and end up burning the car and the house..
The funny thing is, we had this 20+ years ago. The "power station" was simply a battery and it was charged either by the alternator or solar... Lithium batteries made it more portable, rest of decades back
I like to see power stations having more functionality. In the beginning these units were very limited and couldn't handle much charging power. They have evolved a lot over the last couple years!
I got really close to reviewing the Kite-X wind catcher....It's just too big for a normal backyard and I don't have constant wind in my area. Super cool unit though!
Can you drive and charge at the same time? This may impact your car's performance and could damage the alternator. Some Ford trucks come with dual alternators specifically for this purpose. Remember, the car's generator is essential for the ignition system, and putting too much pressure on it is not advisable. Typically, the generator provides 12 volts and 60 amps.
Alternators provide the most power above 2000 rpms while driving so it's best to use it while driving. For a small car ae this to the 300w setting. If you have a truck or SUV, set this to the 500w setting.
Idk I heard Jason's caution segment just fine when he was talking about the loads that you put on your alternator. Sounded pretty clear to me that his advisory was saying you shouldn't just bolt everything up without these considerations. He even offers his own service for $15. I think he's got the bases covered, isn't misleading anybody and has a way to provide input for those who might not have the skill or knowledge to deploy this (really slick combo charge controller) safely. (Just my 2c)
Thats What i' Was Saving a few Weeks ago a A ➕ HI OUTPUT ALternator... and Then iT + a few ☆Add'D Bonuses 😂Show up i' Was 😮Hint'n@ TinyCampers didn't Take The bait
@@Jasonoid I'd Put 1 on my Decade Old Camry...but it's Like new & 50-k, miles ..So it's the only CAr i' Havent modified Lol & the Longest CAr I've Owned, it's Perfect👌 as iS, maybe the Mitts suv will EventualLy Get On the rv Road to Success, Lol i'lL🤒 keep You Posted
I don’t spend enough time on the tube to know whose video reviews are best but yours are excellent. If you review something I’m interested dining I don’t bother watching anything else. I do want to add a second vote for you to review the ETaker power station. Is it as special it seems?
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Thank Jason for this review, I use this about 2 months on my Pecron E1500LFP and really enjoy it. I want to see the review of the Etaker M2000 because the size of this unit.
I love that it has both solar and car charging in one unit! Thanks for the video, Jason :)
Will it blow up ?
👍 Nice job, thanks. These will sell a ton. The thing about the Back Charge capability of the Ecoflow is you can bypass buying a MPPT charger and peripherals for an external battery bank by using Back Charge while the Power Station is connected to solar panels and directly pump that power through. Saves having an ugly "spaghetti" setup on a board or wall. Same with an existing battery bank set-up when there is no sun. More companies need to follow suit to bring prices down.
The EcoFlow unit has some super cool features! I have one, I just haven't tested it yet.
@@Jasonoid HoboTech did a really informative video explaining the possibilities with the back charge function. Looking forward to yours as well.
@Jasonoid can you make a video on how you installed this charger?
I'd really like to see your in depth testing of the ETAKER M2000, as that's a really unique power station.
AT LAST! I’ve been researching for a long time as to how to combine the solar and alternator outputs simultaneously specifically for power stations. Most devices prioritise completely one or the other input and then output algorithms for lithium/agm etc batteries.
Thank you Jason for introducing me to this product. Next problem is trying to find one in the UK! Cheers..
I hope you can find something!
@@JasonoidThank you for replying. Nothing in the UK - ordered from Amazon USA using your discount code! Thank you again.
@@JP-mu5ic I hope the shipping is fast!
We have a similar problem with getting our hands on 240v inverters.
Great, another product to buy! This one fits nicely between the Pecron and the EcoFlow and the efficiency is pretty good for the price. Now, if only one of these companies (or maybe some others as well) would make that all in one voltage reducer for hooking up a solar panel or array with a higher voltage (70 VDC to 250 VDC) to either a 28 VDC output or 56 VDC output to fit pretty much any solar generator on the market. Great review as always and thanks for reviewing!
Bluetti put their voltage reducer on hold for now... it was meant to take 150v and convert it down to 55 volts or something. Maybe they will release it someday.
Pretty neat that it accepts dual charging. Thanks for review
The motion automatic on/off mode is awesome. One of these in my RV power cabinet is a perfect fit for my application but I don’t want to have to flip the switch. I’m definitely looking into these guys thanks! It also look like a pretty clean design. I’m quite impressed!
That sounds like a good application for it. Thanks for watching!
Excellent presentation. Thank you. Most of my smaller power stations have 24'ish input volts so a 24'ish volt version of this would be nice.
I'd just stick with something like this for the smaller power stations:
amzn.to/41JRUPh
It has an adjustable output so you can set it to the voltage you need. I test it in depth in this video: ruclips.net/video/I78RxjRXTn4/видео.html
@@Jasonoid Thank you
Excellent review. Thorough and relatable. Thanks.
Great review as usual Jason. Very interesting product. Really wish they boosted the voltage to 60V as that's a common input limit for med/large power stations. Doing so would lower the current to about 17A, which better matches those same power stations typical MPPT current limit of 15A. Less current would result in less heat and better efficiency.
Hopefully they update V2 with higher output voltage.
Great feedback! I think they designed it to match their power stations specifically. 👍
Excellent review Jason! Yes I would like to see some testing on their power stations.
Good to hear!
@@Jasonoidwould this be ideal fo the anker f3800?
@@Witcherworks in what way would you use it for the Anker F3800? Please explain how youd use it.
Wow, so many choices...ecoflow, pecron and now etaker. Still undecided, but am leaning towards the Etaker. Great video as always Jason.
The Ecoflow only makes sense if you have an Ecoflow model since it proprietary. I like the extra power available from the solar on this one. Kinda a unique design!
Thanks Jason for another great product and review. Imo, it's definitely worth it when a charge is needed for a fridge or solar generator needs a boost up in adverse conditions or to make it thru the night.
Now let me look under these cushions and find some change 😂 to purchase.
I wish I had a bigger discount code for everyone!
This is a great product. I have a similar solution in my DIY camper van, but using a discrete LiFePo battery. I use the dual-input (solar+alternator) charger from Renogy. They have 30A and 50A versions. No fan needed, so they are silent. The added benefit is when your house battery is full, the Solar will trickle charge your car’s starter battery. That is great for RVs that might be parked unused for extended periods. Do you have a review on the dual-input Renogy chargers? If not, you should do one. There is one other solution I’ve seen. My daughter has a power station from Jackery that has two inputs for charging. Solar is attached to one, and the other goes to her cigarette lighter socket. But it isn’t very fast. Maybe some of the other brands also have dual-input built in. Anyway, good video and a great product review.
Me too, I've been using the renogy dcc50s for 4 years now 👍
I have a Kisae DMT 1250 DC to DC dual input battery charger meant for car charging with solar input. It's an AWESOME battery charger but... Those DC to DC chargers don't work well for power stations since they output 14v for a battery, you need high voltage to charge a power station quickly. That's why these converters designed for power stations work so well. 42v will allow much faster charging than 14v.
@@Jasonoid great point 👍
Very solid review of a very useful device. Personally, I have no need for it, due to just using 12v LiFePO4 for car camping, and my Kisae DMT-1230 which I found due to Jason's DMT-1250 review long ago, meets my needs well. It doesn't combine car and solar inputs, just switches between them depending upon whether the car is on. Its output can be set to 5, 10, 20, or 30A. Basically, I got it to stop limping along using 100W out of the 10A fused car 12V lighter outlet.
I love that Kisae DMT1250, such a cool device. I still use it when I'm running an LFP battery for a camping trip!
Thank you Jason for this Video! After you helped me with the Q&A the the other week I bought one. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Enjoy it!
Thanks Jason.
If the automobile is equipped with a high output alternator, say 240 amp or so, it looks possible that running a second line (parallel) from the battery/alternator would provide 13.4x20=268 watts of additional charging on the solar line, so total could be as high as 500+268=768 watts of charging with automobile alone. And then, if one wanted to get closer to the 1000 watt limit, find a 20 amp boost converter that boosts the second line up to a higher voltage of 24 volts. This may have an efficiency cost in the boost converter, and heat dissipation would need to be designed in.
I should have tested that! I can't believe I didn't even think about using both inputs for a battery.... Sorry!
Be great to see one of there power station reviews 👍🏼
I’m using it with Bluetti 200p i can say it Rocks! It connected to (2) lifepo4 230 amps each 😊
Thanks great subject again!!!
Thanks great subject again!!!
I didn't even think about connecting two batteries to it.... good idea!
That's really cool. Thanks for showing this tech.
Glad you liked it! It's good to see stuff moving along in the right direction!
Really a great video, you answered all questions I might have had, and you tested everything! Super well done, real quality testing!
Glad you liked it!
Jason, one thing to add to your list of uses for these type of devices is to run/charge power stations from a EV vehicle. Lots of stuff online where one hooks this up to their EV 12 volt battery and the inverter/charger in the EV is used to charge the power station. Most EV inverter chargers have a much higher output than a typical combustion engine alternator.
@@douglasmontgomery6315 very true! I need to do some testing with an EV, maybe my brother in law will let me experiment with his Bolt EUV... Haha
@@Jasonoid , I have a 2023 Bolt :)
Thanks for the the video! It is very useful! I recently bought a DJI Power 1000. I am wondering if I can use ETAKER F1000 or any other device that you have tested to get a high wattage fast charger during driving for my DJI power 1000. I can't find anything about car fast charging for the DJI Power online.
One thing to check is what gauge of wires are between the alternator and the battery also in older Ford campers ie my old 74 Ford inside the regulator was a wire that was only 18 gauge and when pulling a lot of power like when you killed the battery or when you boosted another vehicle it would burn off I bought a few new alternator and regulator before I talked to an old Ford mechanic who told me about the
Problem and the next time it went I replaced the wire with a larger one and no more problems GMC had a fusible link that would do the same mechanics would change the link a 10 dollar fix and change the alternator and regulator around a 300 dollar bill and all it needed was the fusible link started buying the link from my GMC dealer and saved a lot of money so if you put one of these on your vehicle and your charging system dies don't just go to the repair shop get the components checked out and when you find the problem fix it since it's hard find a good mechanic so far all the mechanics I've found the fixes have been just being in the right place at the right time
There is also the Renogy dcdc50 but only with 500 watt output. Also trickle charges your starter battery from solar.
We should be able to connect this to a standard mppt like a VictronConnect 100/70 and charge standard LFP batteries as well.
I don't see why that wouldn't work, probably better off just using a DC to DC 12v battery charger though to get better efficiency numbers if you want to just charge a standalone battery
I want to add a little capacity to my Bluetti AC 200l power station. Would you recommend a setup like this ( with the etaker) or perhaps a system like you built using a step up voltage converter? Thank you for your excellent videos and all your help. 👍🙏
Either option will work. The higher the voltage you can get the faster charging.
Two questions:
1. Could you use an XT60(I) Y connector to power both inputs to an Ecoflow Delta 2 Max to get the full 1000W charging?
2. Could you hook a battery to the solar input and if so, what is the output wattage for a 12.8V battery?
Good stuff. s there a way to adjust that 12.5v cut-off for the alternator power? I'd like it be higher.
fantastic review!
Great product thx! Did not know this type. I need something like this but without the car driving sensor. Anyone idea?
Great review. Will you be reviewing the Bluetti Charger 1?
Yep, soon.
THXs great review. I can already see how this device is a solution for some of my issues.....for example charging the solar generator from my big battery bank during the night without using the inverter. Jason, You say charging from the Etaker through the DC input of the solar generator.That´s OK with the charging port of the car but what about the solar charging port ? That would mean there is no MPPT controller for the solar panel ???? Please could You explain ?
This F1000 is designed to plug into the DC/PV input port on your power station to charge it. That charging power can be sourced from either a 12v battery or solar panels at the same time. The F1000 allows you to connect both a 12v battery and solar panels and combine their power into the DC / PV input port on your power station.
@@Jasonoid OK THXs, to confirm in general.....device Max. 1000 W and on the Solar Generator PORT whatever DC/PV Mppt capacity...... furthermore on the 500W car input > Automatic Shut Down when below 12V and restart above 12,5V @ StandBy 50 mA.....Automatic Engine Detector can be DISABLED ? That is a great feature... shuts down my 15kWh Main to 500W when the Cell is at 3 Volt. Most likely if ever that is not going to happen that often because next morning 3000W solar on the Main come Online and in absolute worse case..... that´s when my Gen 3200W with electric start comes online..... still tweeking a little...has bluetooth start but no voltage detection. I guess that will void my warranty. But who counts on warranty too much these day anyway? I pretend to run this in tandem with the Pecron 3600 on 1 PV port and another 1000W solar on the other PV port. Hopefully this will allow me to run Air Condition full time
Very helpful thanks 👍
Renogy 12V 30A DC to DC Charger with MPPT competitor....thats good
That renogy DC to DC charger is meant for charging 12v batteries only. This unit is meant for charging power stations only.
Does the ETAKER have bi-directional charging like the ECOFLOW?
Nope
@@Jasonoid So if you had to choose only 1; ETAKER or ECOFLOW or Bluetti, which would you choose and why?
Both inputs should be rated up to 60V in my opinion, idk if anyone noticed but the Auto industry really should be switching over to 48V systems, home storage/inverter setups really shouldn't be using anything less than 48V, and it would be nice if the solar input could match what most power stations handle so you have the ability to swap your setups around without having to reconfigure your array. Other than those 2 things this looks awesome, especially for those with power stations that only have a single input 👍
I'm hoping EcoFlow is paying attention and adds some features/inputs like this for the "XT60 version" of their car charger (which btw during the labor day sales I saw as low as $199 with coupons).
Great feedback about 48v batteries coming in the near future. I sure hope so!
Jason, nice review. Will this work with the Pecron 3600? For alternator and solar charging?
It should work great! I think the Pecron has a 20 amp input limit so the peak power you'd see would be 42v @ 20 amps, so still very decent power!
Another great review, Jason - just ordered! This will work perfect to power my Anker C1000. Does the incoming voltage of the solar panel need to be in a certain range? And any tips or lessons learned from running 6AWG to your canopy? Thanks!
Solar voltage range is 12-48 volts.
Using a larger wire will keep you from getting any voltage drop. That's the only downside is the stock wiring is a little undersized. When wiring my truck I went from the engine bay, down under the truck along the frame and then up through the back via the tail light mounting holes. It's worked well and wasn't too difficult. It took probably 26 feet of wiring.
Perfect, thanks for the reply and insight!
Did you put the XT90 connector on the 6AWG wire, or using something inbetween? I just ordered 6AWG wire and terminals for my battery, but trying to figure out what connector can handle 6AWG to patch to the unit itself. Thanks!
I modded the original xt90 with larger wire by cutting it and attaching the Sb50 and then the other side is an sb50 with 6awg.
Great thanks! Side note - I’d love to see a video of common connectors that pair with various AWG wire. Still learning and that would be helpful to improve search results, as searching “6AWG connectors” didn’t get me very far. It might be too much of a newbie topic for your audience, but sharing in case you see any merit. Thanks again
@jasonoid - will you review the Etaker F2000 one?
Not sure the size of my current alternator, but what size is good for use of this product? I have a 2003 Toyota Sequoia
what do you think is better the Bluetti charge 1 or the ETAKER F1000
It all depends what you are wanting to accomplish. The Etaker is more affordable and allows for dual inputs. If you want to charge from solar and your alternator at the same time, only the Etaker can do that. The Bluetti has both high and low voltage output so it's compatible with more power stations, small and large models.
Great vid!
Exactly what can you power up with this
This is meant to charge power stations in your vehicle, not much else.
Hi, I have a pickup with dual alternators. What do you recommend for quick charging my EcoFlow during short trips?
Turn it up to 500w!
Could 2 of these be connected in series and then connected to a 48v charge controller to charge a 48v battery bank?
No, this wouldnt work for that.
Like this 1 more then the pecron i have both
Nice to hear from someone who has both!
The XT60 input jacks are rated for a max of 30 amps. The 12V input will see 45 amps, which doesn't instill confidence in their engineering. This is basically 2 simple boost converters of
The input is an XT90. Also those cheap converters burn up at any reasonable wattage. A $25 part won't come near the performance of these solutions. These are metal, they have built in cooling solutions and are designed specifically for this purpose.
Excellent thank you !
You are welcome! Thanks for checking out the video
Couldn't you connect your 12v battery into the solar input and also achieve the 1000w output as it also accepts a minimum of 12v
I'm not sure if you'd get the full 1000 but it should get a bit more power.
i have the AC200max in my self built van conversion. I am totally confused when it comes to electrical. will this work to charge my bluetti while driving? i have portable solar but only use when stationary.
Yes, this allows you to charge from your van starter battery while driving. Since the AC200max has one DC charging port, you should be able to connect both the car charging and solar into this unit and charge your AC200max.
I have the bluetti ac200max, 500w of solar and a 90a alternator. I don't really understand the input voltage of my power station. It says 10-145v. Will this will work for me? If so, I'll buy it because if I have 3 cloudy days in a row, my bluetti is bottoming out.
Yes, it will work with the AC200max 👍
Could this be used for wind turbine and solar panels?
As long as the voltage output meets the required specs
One thing seems a bit confusing, why does the input of the solar panel go through this car charger first and then connect to the power station? Can't the solar panel just be connected to the power station??
If your power station only has one DC charging port, then this devices allows you to combine both solar and car charging into one. Without this device you'd have to choose solar or car charging and not get both.
what size cable did you use from the car main battery to the power connection at the rear in the bed?
6 awg is minimum, 4 awg would be better.
@@Jasonoid Thanks for the quick reply- I have some 2AWG from another project if it come to it. I tried solar and there's just so many cons to it, this seems to be a better choice. Thanks for this video.
How does this stand against the new BLUETTI Charger 1?
I havent even tested the Bluetti charger yet. I'm still waiting for it to show up
Will this work if my Bluetti can only support up to 28VDC?
This puts out 42v, it will damage it.
I'd recommend using a 12v to 24v booster instead.
Wish you'd tested on an Ecoflow too but nice device.
I have the Ecoflow... I will get around to it.
Because a brand name matters more than input and output specs? Just read the specs of your Ecoflow, the specs of this, and figure out whether it does what you want.
@EfficientRVer Because that's what I currently own and am interested in real world results. That's why he tested it on two devices and responded to my comment about doing that testing I mentioned.
how does it know car is on. Smart alternators are tricky and require IGN wire
It senses the voltage, anytime it's above 12.5v it will charge. It also senses movement of the vehicle.
@@Jasonoid for smart alternators the movement of the vehicle is the correct way to go.
Are there any devices that simply step up your solar? By itself.
Solar already has a high enough voltage and doesn't need to be boosted. You only need to boost a 12v battery to get more power.
@@Jasonoid I just bought an Eco-Worthy 200 watt panel with Open Circuit Voltage of 23.7. In theory I could double it. And I don't know the answer to this, but on a cloudy day when you are getting 1/2 or 1/3 of what you get on good day, has your voltage gone down, your amperage gone down or both?
Boosting the voltage won't give you any additional power. If you put the numbers into the power equation (Volts X amps = wattage) you just swap voltage for amperage. Volts go up, amps come down. The reason you need to boost a 12v battery to get high power is because power stations can't take high amperage. In order to get 500w at 12v, it requires ~40 amps. Power stations limit power to around 8 amps @ 12v. Thats why these boost converters are useful.
For your solar panel, power will be 20v @ 10 amps = 200w if tried to boost it up, you'd lose more power through conversion losses than just connecting up the solar panel on its own.
Thank you for your review, Jason.
I have this and did extensive testing with this. Both charging my redodo lifepo4 batteries and my blueetti ac70 power station.
It seems to limit the current draw to 19-20A from my CRV alternator and won't get beyond 260W at all settings for me. My car battery voltage is 14.4 while testing this. I have the same experience using my battery as power source. I have videos of my testing.
Anyone have any ideas ?
Could be getting a bit of voltage drop through the stock wiring. The CRV also has a pretty small alternator so I'm not sure it would handle the full 500w setting. Using a larger wire size should help get more power, espeically from a standalone battery.
Do you have this sytem directly hooked to the alternator or the batter?
This connects directly to the starter battery, which is charged by the alternator.
Did you see the new Bluetti Alternator charger that just came out, it looks interesting but not as good as this. (It's app controlled but universal)
I'm waiting for it to show up. It has an adjustable output voltage, I think it will be pretty interesting.
@@Jasonoid The major reason I've been so interested in these dc chargers lately is because I recently had a 3 day power outage not long ago and the weather was crap. I want to have the ability to use my car as a generator ( I don't really want to buy one of those regular gas/propane generators, too loud) to supplement power to my DPU
what about the Anker F3800.
Yep, it will work on that too.
I have a 220 amp altenator on my truck. Is that enough to run at 500 watts? Do you have suggestions for what size alt will power at the 4 levels. I just ordered the 500 watt pecron dc charger.
more than enough
Yep, no worries about that alternator.
@@Jasonoid Good. I should have opted for the dual altenator 380 watt setup when I ordered but figured this would be big enough.
@@Jasonoid I just ordered a e3600 for my son sing your code. Thanks for the tip.
@@fscottgray9784 the E3600 is a beast! Nice!
my Anker 757 is limited to about 31 vdc on the mppt charger. Any recommendations to modify this unit to work the 757?
In this video ( ruclips.net/video/I78RxjRXTn4/видео.html ) I go over using a Victron DC to DC converter that puts out near 30volts. That's probably your best bet:
amzn.to/41JRUPh
Why modify this? Just get something with the specs you need.
Take a look at the Kisae DMT-2430. While it doesn't combine car + solar, it switches between them as the car goes on/off. The nominal 24V output can be set to various standard or custom voltages, including a setting of 29.2v which is the max recommended for LiFePO4 24v batteries, but would also be great for a power station input limited to 31v max. You can choose between 5, 10, 20, and 30A output.
So I need to be carefull when using Pecron and this Etaker devices on my car coz it might break my Alternator?
Even the ecoflow one too. If you limit the wattage to match your alternator, then there should be no problem with any of the devices (idk if pecron has wattage limits). Other than that, the only other "issue" with these devices is if they are on/working when the user doesn't want it to. Ecoflow has the starting voltage slider. This has 12.5v starting voltage.
Correct, most cars can handle 300w to 500w without an alternator upgrade. Depends on the vehicle.
@@Jasonoid MF.. i saw your other video.. you made me buy the Pecron 500w... haha, but great content! i could have bought an unknown brand from aliexpress and end up burning the car and the house..
The funny thing is, we had this 20+ years ago. The "power station" was simply a battery and it was charged either by the alternator or solar...
Lithium batteries made it more portable, rest of decades back
I like to see power stations having more functionality. In the beginning these units were very limited and couldn't handle much charging power. They have evolved a lot over the last couple years!
I dare you to do a Windmill Review Ha ha
I got really close to reviewing the Kite-X wind catcher....It's just too big for a normal backyard and I don't have constant wind in my area. Super cool unit though!
@@Jasonoid You have an imposter in your comments by the way
@@Moes_Prep_and_Tech where?
@@Jasonoid he must have deleted his comment, his name is JasonoidReview, same icon as you, He replied on this comment saying Goodies for you TM!!!
@@Moes_Prep_and_Tech probably got caught by the spam blocking. RUclips finally got better with that... After like 4 years
Hi does anyone knows if these work on Toyota Prius, since they don’t have an alternator, probably is ok thanks for any info!
The onboard 12v battery is charged by a DC to DC converter from the drive battery. Yes, this will work on a prius 👍
@@Jasonoid. Ok thanks 😊
Current
Amperage
Can you drive and charge at the same time? This may impact your car's performance and could damage the alternator. Some Ford trucks come with dual alternators specifically for this purpose. Remember, the car's generator is essential for the ignition system, and putting too much pressure on it is not advisable. Typically, the generator provides 12 volts and 60 amps.
Alternators provide the most power above 2000 rpms while driving so it's best to use it while driving. For a small car ae this to the 300w setting. If you have a truck or SUV, set this to the 500w setting.
Idk I heard Jason's caution segment just fine when he was talking about the loads that you put on your alternator. Sounded pretty clear to me that his advisory was saying you shouldn't just bolt everything up without these considerations. He even offers his own service for $15. I think he's got the bases covered, isn't misleading anybody and has a way to provide input for those who might not have the skill or knowledge to deploy this (really slick combo charge controller) safely. (Just my 2c)
need drive on charger
K
Thats What i' Was Saving a few Weeks ago a A ➕ HI OUTPUT ALternator... and Then iT + a few ☆Add'D Bonuses 😂Show up i' Was 😮Hint'n@ TinyCampers didn't Take The bait
This one definitely has the high output!
@@Jasonoid I'd Put 1 on my Decade Old Camry...but it's Like new & 50-k, miles ..So it's the only CAr i' Havent modified Lol & the Longest CAr I've Owned, it's Perfect👌 as iS, maybe the Mitts suv will EventualLy Get On the rv Road to Success, Lol i'lL🤒 keep You Posted
I don’t spend enough time on the tube to know whose video reviews are best but yours are excellent.
If you review something I’m interested dining I don’t bother watching anything else.
I do want to add a second vote for you to review the ETaker power station. Is it as special it seems?