@@brucereyesss I don't have a specific video. Google "how to wire an inverter to your truck battery" and you'll get some good ideas there for wiring. Then instead of an inverter, use one of these DC to DC converters.
@@WindAndWonder ~ These are more like mini transformers that increase the voltage (12v-24v) which lowers the amps (20-10amp). You will get the same watts with either 12v X 20amps = 240 watts, or 24v X 10amps = 240 watts. With a *Delta 2 you can import up to 500 watts via the XT-60 port but only at a 15amp/60 volt limit, so using a 12-48 volt "boost converter" (aka transformer) you can input 48 volts X 10 amps = 480 watts 😎 You can also use a pure sine wave inverter and import up to 1200 watts using the standard A/C charge cord. Charging your *Delta 2 in less than an hour. The only downside to that is the inverter will use some energy while it's running, with a load on it or not.
For anyone wanting to use the 12 - 36v 20amp converter. You can fit 2 x 80mm pc case fans on the top. The unit is 160mm long and 113mm wide. The fan mounting holes line up perfectly in between the cooling fins. Using the fan mounting holes as a guide tap out 4 x .7 mm threads. Works very well.
@@Jasonoid thank you for the video great information. I do have a question about what size fuse. Would you recommend for 5 feet of six gauge wire we are talking about the 12 V to 36 V unit. It says it peaks at 720 W.
This solves a huge problem for me. I really wanted to use an all in one unit for my van build but the lack of decent dc charging through a cigarette lighter plug was a deal breaker. This method now gives you the shore power, solar and dc to dc option that makes an all in one unit an option. Now I don’t have to wade into the build your system from scratch nightmare I was envisioning. Any of those larger units will provide all the power I need and I have the option of taking it out of the van when I need it somewhere else. Thank you!
Great video. Does it make any difference having a smart alternator? And would I have to wire it into the ignition so it doesn’t drain my starter battery when not in use?
After watching this a few times and deep diving into the info, I have come to appreciate your knowledge and details of testing and presentation. Bravo!!
this is your BEST video yet! the moment I was thinking like "this needs a fan" and what do you know you did test it with a fan, same goes with wire gauges and the in car demonstration. excellent stuff!
Great demonstration video. People are asking all the time on the solar generator forums how to boost the charging output from their car batteries. This video answers a lot of questions. Thanks for putting this demo together.
More people need to learn about this!! I did a more efficient setup with a 12 to 48 volt 15amp boost converter. Mounted right next to the battery in my engine bay, using the engine fan to cool. This allowed me to use smaller gauge wire on the 48v side, running it all the way to the back of the vehicle. This configuration allows you to save money on wiring, less heat loss and no need for a cooling fan! I'm now charging my AC 180 at 480 watts! This setup will put out 720 watts with a larger power station. Bye-bye, solar! 🤯
Yes, most boost converters are potted and totally waterproof. I wouldn't go with anything less than 48 volts if your power station will allow it. They are more expensive but usually built better than the small cheap 24v ones. 48v typically come with 8 gauge wire on the input side. Mine is rated for 15 amps, but I'm only pulling 10. Having it overbuilt for your need is it always a good idea.
Most vehicles alternators cannot put out 200-250 Amps! Small cars and compact vehicles: 60-80 amps, Mid-size and family sedans: 80-120 amps, Large sedans, SUVs, and light-duty trucks: 100-150 amps, Heavy-duty trucks and large diesel engines: 130-200 amps
I have an ac200max in my Transit van. I installed a 1200 watt pure sine inverter connected to the 175amp 12 volt customer connection point in the van. I use the 500 watt AC power brick that came with the power station to charge it. In addition I have the 12 volt cable that plugs into the 12 volt outlet in the van and the solar input on the Bluetti. You can use both simultaneously and so I can charge at over 500 watts. I have used this for two years without any issue.
I use an ecoflow as for my work van to recharge power tool batteries and run random smaller stuff. I charge it from a separate deep cycle that also runs some lights and is only charged from driving, once in a blue moon with an actual charger. The slow charging through the provided cigarette lighter plug is painful at 100ish watt. I solved this with a 12-220v inverter to change the ecoflow, but it seems stupid and is overly complicated to go from car 12v to deep cycle to 220v to ecoflow to 220v chargers to 18v batteries. One of these will simply things a lot, just put in an order. Thanks for the video, came here from your short
Great stuff Jason, you continue to be a huge help on this steep learning curve! FWIW, from reading the comments here and on one or two of your other related videos I'm leaning towards a 500W inverter over a DC converter for price and practicality.
Perfect information for storing battery power for later use while driving around. Decreases waste from fossil fuels and gives you more bang for your buck for each mpg.
Another very good video! I'd get the Victron with the active cooling and adjustable voltage output, so I know it's safe and will work with a wide variety of products. Also, the Victron has a wired on/off option that can be connected to your ignition switch, so it doesn't draw anything unless your vehicle is running (see below!) It's worth mentioning that none of these are designed with a low-voltage cut-off, so depending on how they're wired they could drain your vehicle battery to the point where it damages it or leaves you with no way to start your vehicle. That's why most DC-DC converters are more complicated and more expensive than these products.
Very good points, Jason. It would be wise to have a system disconnect built in that turns it off when not in use. I wish I would have mentioned that in the video. Thanks for the tip!
Flat starter battery is a non issue now. I have 2 cheap lithium jump startes, both have been thrashed for a couple of weeks when I had a dead battery, and both work perfectly. You should keep one iin your glovebox.
Great video thank you very much , so I have a Victron isolated B to B 30 amp which will be going to my 200 Amp leisure battery if I connected the Victron voltage boost to my leisure battery to charge a Bluetti 200 would that be ok ? I’m guessing by doing that it’s not going to run my van battery flat ? May be run my leisure battery down , but could put an automatic switch, or will it overload B to B thank you well done good luck 👍👍👍🏴🇬🇧🇨🇦🦢
Great comparison. You could have done this with just one power station, but that would not have been nearly as informative. I learned a lot, thank you soooo much. Real world test with real world results. Awesome
Such a classic, there are so many great quotes from that movie: "Clever Girl", "Hold on to your Butts", "Dinosaurs eat men, women inherit the earth" LOL
You just reminded me that I want to bump up my alternator on my 1966 Mercury Comet. I already bumped it up from 40 or whatever the original was to 100 for AC, Electric Fans, and Electronic Fuel Injection, but since I started rolling around with my EB3A pugged into the cigarette lighter all of the time to get a fast charge on my phone, I've thought about incorporating something bigger. Great video, thanks.
@@Jasonoid Yeah, I did not know the output was so high on the new ones until this video. Lots of possibilities for mobile backup power with this - I want to replace my 6500 watt generator at work with a split phase 48 volt setup, and now I'm thinking about just having it in my truck and plugging into panels in the afternoon when I leave work to top off instead of having everything on a trailer and plugging in a charger occasionally. I monitor 42 groundwater wells with mostly 4 inch grundfos submersibles from 350 to 600 feet every quarter. California will stop selling generators at some point or they will have to be permitted. Right now, anything over 50 hp has to be permitted. Keep it up - the videos are very helpful and inspiring.
@@Jasonoid My 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 came stock with a 105A alternator. After buying a Renogy 40A DC to DC battery charger, I upgraded the alternator to 145A (total) Idle amperage will be lower.
I can tell a lot of hard work went into this video which is much appreciated. I found this information to be very helpful. This is something I would not do personally as it way too confusing. When you speak this type of information quickly is too hard to absorb. I would need a class just on understanding the capability of just one power station, let alone four of them. It would be interesting to know if anyone has had any adverse effect on the vehicle's alternator or vehicle performance using these devices. It seems like a viable alternative to charging your power station, but I currently lack clear understanding of going from volts to watts; having the right type of connects and so on. I know your very smart about your testing. I one day hope to aspire to reach your confidence and understanding. Your channel gives me general knowledge, but this is not something I would undertake. But I still learned more about alternatives and that is what was important to me.
The learning curve for electricity and solar is a bit steep. You'll pick it up with time if you keep trying to learn. I was in your shoes only a few years ago but having so many resources available and studying I am now much more familiar with how it all works. You'll get there, just keep reading and watching videos :)
Great information. I have been planning on doing this for my Ecoflow delta pro in my Sprinter van conversion. The only thing I have not figured out yet is an automatic transfer switch, so I can keep the solar panels and the alternator charging separated on the single solar input on the Ecoflow. My current plan is to just use a manual transfer switch, which are readily available, but it would be nice to have one that automatically switches to the alternator charging when the vehicle is turned on
If these are using the solar input, could this be wired in parallel with the panels? Would this back feed the car charging system and blow it up? If I could I would like to be able to charge extra when towing the trailer while also charging from the panels installed on the trailer. Any ideas on this.
Awesome video. Very thorough, and best of all, extremely practical. As to your question about "how do I charge", I have a Renogy DC to DC charger with MPPT connected to my F150. This is wired up to a fuse block & Renogy 2000W inverter. I use the inverter to charge, among other things, my EcoFlow River Pro which will take 600W (I think) input. The inverter's primary function is to power a small microwave while camping.
Installed a 1000W Renogy ac inverter with 4 gauge wire in my vehicle. Charged my EcoFlow River 2 Max at 600W (adjusted max ac charging rate to 600W from EcoFlow app) as a test without any problems. Will be also charge my Delta Max the same way, and can adjust charging rate up or down based need or time on the road driving.
Cool idea! A few things to be cautious of. Don't try this with a hybrid they have very small starting and charging systems. All newer vehicles monitor the alternator output and will set a service light if you over tax the charging system. The light will clear after 3 key cycles though so do not freak out just dial back the draw. Also, when pulling near max power from the alternator you should run another 4ga wire from the alternator to the battery and also add a second ground to the battery and to the alternator. If you are reasonable with the draw this is a great alternative to using a solar panel to charge the power station. Victron all the way, never had 1 issue with any of their products.
So gents, I bought the ac200max to boondock with our 35' class a gasser. I'm assuming the alternator on the Triton V-10 engine would not have any troubles with the Victron. 2 questions from an electrical moron (Which is why I bought the ac200max!)1. I'd like to store the bluetti at the back of the rig, would running cables from the engine at the front about 30' back cause me any difficulties in this charging process. (lighter jack is at the front of course.) and 2, could you explain "running another 4ga wire from the battery to the alternator" and the 2 ground cables, ie what gage and specifically from where to where? I'd appreciate the help. Thanks
The more I see how much even cheap components cost the more I realize what a pretty good deal most commercial power stations like the Ecoflow River 2 Pro are.
You have a ton of great info in this video that I haven't previously considered. Thank you! I have the FFPower (same unit, different brand) and an EcoFlow River Por. So, I think the smaller, cheaper converter would make sense for me. You must have read my mind about putting a fan on that one converter!
Great information and, as always, well done! My Delta 2 has a 60 DC volt limit, so any of these will work well. However, because there is a 15 amp limit for the Delta 2, a lower amperage converter might work just as well as be less expensive!
What up Doe!? Honestly I would need two for use with a large (2000w) and smaller(300w) power station. The 12-36v converter and the $35 converter. Great review as usual Dr J' 👍🏼
Excellent testing and analysis. Another option: I have 320 W of solar on my truck cap charging my Delta Max w/ two extra Smart Batteries. This is a duplicate system and backup to that in my travel trailer. This DC-DC arrangement would occupy the solar input port, whereas with an AC inverter in the truck, the Delta Max will accept both inputs simultaneously. My problem was that the built in 400 W inverter in my truck is not pure sine wave, which the Delta Max will not accept. I’ve decided to install a separate 500 W PSW inverter.
FYI, Delta's inverter is pass through when it's plugged into AC power. Therefore you cannot use AC loads greater than the charging inverter (ie. 500W) can handle.
Good info. On my GoLabs R300 power station that maxes DC charging out at 3A up to 60W, I'd be tempted to get a 12-19V converter for $15. That would up car charging to 57W charging vs 40W, but instead I use a USB-C PD to get near the advertised 60W PD input. Still can power that plus my freezer off the 12V 10A cigarette lighter outlet and 300W pure sine inverter. Bulletproof little inverter that I got for $35, though now it's usually $50 or more. You could build a crock pot around that 36V unit. 155F isn't very scary until you realize that was probably 120F over ambient, so in the desert you'd routinely see it at boiling temps, where it could be the basis for a rice cooker rather than crock pot.
I don't have a video about it. I ran 6awg wire from the battery, down the firewall, under the cab along the frame / truck bed and came up through on of the wire plug holes for the tail light. I used wire loom and heavy duty zip ties to attach it.
@@CuriousinNY turn on channel notifications for my channel (the little bell next to the subscribe button). I announce the streams on my RUclips community page a few days before each one.
@@Jasonoid what is a RUclips community channel? I actually did have notifications turned on for your channel when I subscribed. I just checked it and saw there is another option for all notifications for your channel. When I subscribed and the bell came up, I thought that was it. How do I join your community page too.
wow this is exactly what i need! my 400watt built in ford transit power inverter doesnt charge my anker solix 767 for some reason. and 120watts isnt enough while driving. i was going to try a 1000 watt inverter but this would be much better! thank you!
The 400w inverter is probably a 'modified sine wave' inverter which puts out a rough sine wave. Most power stations won't charge from that type of inverter.
@@Jasonoid what's interesting to me is that I could probably run 2 dc converters and get another big power bank 😅 They seems to always be on sale now. Even the 2kwh stuff is starting to become reasonably priced (for my budget)
Jason with summer coming can you do the holy grail test about running a window Air Conditioner 24/7 using only solar to recharge batteries. Like show which power station, which batteries, which solar panels, etc. Plenty of us preppers got emergency sheds that could use your great presentation and explanations. Ty
The only thing is that I don't have a window ac unit and all my windows in my house open sideways, not vertically so it's not the best for hanging one.
very nice options and cool comparisons too, I have the Delta Max 2000 but also smaller power stations too, very helpful video, thank you so much. Now let me bring my checkbook to get a Victron, lol.
Buying a 12 or 24 volt 100 AH LIPO battery and converter not only expands your solar generators capacity, but with the converter, it will not put unwanted stress on your vehicles battery and alternator..I would advise that method as opposed to charging by vehicle...And you can charge the stand alone battery with solar when the sun is shining from your solar generator, or at home with a charger, depending on your particular situation..There is real risk to your vehicle charging like that..In Quartzsite Arizona I've witnessed many RV fires and destroyed alternators from that very method, over the years..
Sure, it can be a problem if you don't plan accordingly with the proper wire size and such. Running at a 50% load on the alternator should be fine. This is a backup charging solution of solar isn't available... I would always charge with solar first.
Overheating your alternator is a risk. Btw, I have 240AH LFP, plus 2x dcdc charge controllers charging the LFP @ 90A. The methods in this video should not overheat most alternators whilst driving. Do not heavily load your alternator whilst stationary with no airflow. One good strategy is to use a relay with a10min delay - this allows the alternator to mostly recharge the starting battery b4 charging your house LFP. You can also use a temperature triggered relay, to diconnect from your alternator if the alternator becomes too hot.
Great Video! Subd. Very detailed to include how to connect, which is what I was looking for. I had to purchase my Orion 12/24-20 from NAZ Solar since Amazon was out of stock. Connecting it to my Ford Transit CCP and adding a switch.
A small USB fan is what I use to keep my chargers cool. Some of my Type C PD chargers and ones for my power stations get very hot which can`t be good but a small fan blowing on them makes a huge difference, keeps them cool to the touch, and will extend their useful life. These little fans only draw 2 to 5 watts depending on speed setting.
@@Jasonoid I just got a new USB fan that ran over 5 days from one of my 15 dollar "phone charger" type power banks...a new record. The power bank is heavy but I think it`s 2800 mAh. It also listed 98 wh in the specs.
Good info! Still a deal-killer for me is that this takes up the solar input on most of these power stations, so you can’t simultaneously charge them from solar and the alternator. A few power stations have two higher-wattage DC inputs but that’s the exception rather than the rule.
Yeah, in that case it might be best to just charge from a 1500 to 2000 watt inverter connected to the battery, depending on how fast your power station charges from AC power.
@@cilupercioAre you connecting the solar and DC to DC in Parallel to you power stations input? I’m wanting to do this with my solar and the Victron 12-24 into my EB70S input.
The Bluetti ac200max can have your solar going in through the a.c. port, with the charge enhancer D050S, and alternator going in through the pv port. AND vice versa, so you CAN do it with the Bluetti ac200max at least, it's very flexible in that regard.
Compared so these brands and finally chose Pecron E2000LFP, because in terms of features and value for money, it seems to be the best choice, FFPOWER can not be extended, AC200MAX and Ecoflow is too expensive, of course, E2000LFP does lack of Bluetooth control, but this for the 55-year-old me is not affected
Like the video, very interesting, I ran a wire from my car battery to the back and made a wire to connect to my trailer with 150 amp Anderson connectors for a dc to dc charger. All you have to do is run a big enough wire to your battery to where ever you are going to put the charger for it to work, right? No messing around with the alternator and I think probably not a great idea to wire directly to the alternator because the battery should give you cleaner or safer input power.
Correct, connect your wire run to the starter battery. The alternator will keep it charged up when you are pulling your load. No changes to the alternator needed.
Good info I’ve been running a 12v fridge with a solar panel with a 24v to 12v step down converter with no battery so when nice and sunny I am not putting the wear and tear on the battery bank. Just think it is cool a fridge running totally off a solar panel.
You could remove the Voltage regulator from your Alternator to get near 250 Volts with up to 200 Amps. And use a Rectifier only and input that into the solar input of the Powerstation. Then your power station becomes the Voltage regulator at 48 volts. That would max out your solar inputs on all of them. And then use the 12 Volt output of the powerstation to charge your car Battery. Or you could even have 2 dedicated alternators. One to charge the 12 Volt Battery and the other to charge the Powerstation.
Hi Jason, I passed your excellent video to an electrician to carry out an install to charge my Ecoflow Delta Max (old model) from my 12v van battery. He chose to use the Victron Orion Charger 12/24v 15A, because he recommended the way it can be adjusted to cut out for low voltage input, to protect my car battery. It seemed otherwise to have a spec comparable to the Victron you used, and it's set to output 30V. However, when i connect with the Ecoflow solar cable (and XT60i connector), it registers a charge of 400w plus (13A x 30v?) for a few moments then cuts out to zero, and carries on cycling in and out. The installer managed to make a stable charge once, but couldn't repeat it. He made up a regular xt60 cable and achieved a stable 250w (8A x 30v?), but that's a bit disappointing (the Ecoflow also said it would take 4 days to charge, which it didn't, of course). Any ideas what's going wrong, or how we could sort it?
What happens if you turn down the Victron output voltage a little bit? Like instead of 30v, try 27v or 28v with the Xt60i. When it's turned all the way over to 30v, it might be working too hard.
@@Jasonoid thanks Jason. I understand the installer tried that yesterday and it didn’t help. I’ll ask him tomorrow (and try myself). We’re also going to try making our own xt60i cable rather than the long ecoflow one.
I'm sure if the alternator sensed the battery voltage dropping below a certain threshold, it would start charging the battery again. I don't think you'd see many issues.
I was really looking forward to this Review after seeing the short video and Livestream, I'm looking forward towards the Bluetti AC180 next. I'm debating weather or not its the AC200p Replacement ( I know it has lower PV volts but the other things are nice)
@@Jasonoid I would have to admit......I am a fan of Bluetti, Not a fan of their customer service< I like Delta's App better but I hate their Fans, they are loud compared to the competition.
Hadn't seen this video until now. The cooling fan is a great idea. To improve cooling of each converter without using a fan, raise it off the surface they are resting on by attaching "feet" to the base of each unit. This would allow cooler air to pass beneath each unit, exposing more surface area to cooler ambient air temperatures. This may not work if the converter is in an enclosed compartment. Forcing outside air into the compartment would improve cooling measures.
Finally someone made this video! Now all of our heads can stop spinning for this one issue keeping us from doing a plug n play system. Question….Would my already installed Renogy 20-40A DC-DC charger work? Any idea what the max Amp input is on that Bluetti plug?
If you use a DC to DC charger it doesn't really give you higher voltage output. The key to faster charging is the higher volts. If you charge at 12v you'll see around 100 watts on your power station (that's what you'll see with the DC to DC charger as well since it's designed for charging a 12v battery). If you want more wattage you gotta get the volts higher like the DC to DC converters used in the video.
I've pretty much settled on an AC200MAX for a van build but was nervous about slow alternator charging - especially in the winter. This looks like a game changer, so thanks for that! 😊 I read that the Victron DC-DC converters can be connected in parallel. Is that likely to overload the alternator and, if not, would it actually double the charging rate? I think the bluetti van take 900W solar.
The AC200max only has one charging input. The amperage limit is maxed out with one Victron, so I wouldn't recommend two of them. The only way to get more power would be to go higher with your voltage on the one port.
Great video and timely as I have the EB3a and the new Renogy Phoenix 1000 to play with. A quick suggestion to mull over: Maybe mount the converter under the hood, in the airflow with shorter 4-6 AWG cables to the battery and run the 10 AWG output cables to the back with a DC breaker as a shutoff switch. That would save money as larger cable is expensive, airflow will help cool it and it is easier to run the smaller output cable that far.
Multiple charge controllers on the same solar panel? Jason i have the Delta Max 2000 as you know you can go direct from the solar array into it on the XT60I PLUG..and at same time use the grid to charge simultaneously. My question is...is there a way to split or Y the same solar array into a separate charge controller system to battery then to DC a AC inverter to also plug into the 3 prong 110 input electric port on the delta max so off one solar array you can bring charge into the delta max by 2 different ways at the same time ..one the straight solar and at the same time the AC 110 input through inverter ...just don't know if theirs a way to Y The solar to 2 different units at same time . BTW I did hook up my power queen 12v 190ah 150 BMS TO a 480W 12V to 48V 10A DC DC Converter Step Up Voltage Regulator and I'm getting over 500w input on the XT60I input
Great video! I wonder if you have looked at the Orion Tr Smart product? It is all a bit above my understanding, but I think that product has a way to shut off the charging when the engine is not running. Just a thought for a future video!
Excellent video, Jason! Thanks so much for putting this out. I have a Bluetti EB70 (800W 716Wh) in my teardrop trailer I typically charge with solar panels, but was hoping to charge with my 2023 Forester if needed. In all honesty, I don't know anything about this. What is your recommended setup for this application? I didn't mind spending a few hundred dollars on the project...
I have a very old video about charging tips for the EB70.... It could be a bit crindgy since it's an older video lol... ruclips.net/video/_7l8hoNebDY/видео.html
I used the small 12>24V unit with my Delta 2 Max and it died after about 2 weeks of use. I replaced it with the Victron unit and it has been working fine for several months now. So I suggest avoiding the cheaper units if you want reliability.
The Victron is great! For anyone wanting to use a 12v to 24v converter, I'd suggest purchasing the 20 amp model or larger so it's only running at 50% load when running. It will last much longer. If you have a 5 or 10 amp model it's like running your car engine at full RPMs all the time, it's gunna die.
About the amps on alternator: My alternator says 12V 80A. You said make sure not to go beyond half the capacity. I am confused because in the testing you only talked about watts......🤔
Got to say that I had a problem with the ac200 max not reading battery percentage right, but Bluetti has been helpful, not sure if we have it fixed yet but it is nice to have customer service. Will try to update if I can.
Glad to hear they are helping you out. Usually cycling the power station at 500 watts will help fix that issue. Discharge the unit fully at a ~500 watt load till it's empty, then charge at a ~500 watt load till full. Do that a few times and it will calibrate the capacity shunt.
I have the Victron converter with a BLUETTI 200l. I have 14v coming in and 29v out of the converter but only 225 w charging using the BLUETTI xt90. I didn’t see anywhere that the BLUETTI needed the “I” connector like the eco Flo. Any ideas why I’m not getting 400w. Thank you
I didn't test with the AC200L in the video I tested with the older AC200max so they might perform differently. Do you have the DC input set to solar in the smart app?
FYI for others out there Bluetti confirmed that the victron dc to dc will not work with the 200L. They said 30V and less will be limited to 8Amps. My two cigs panels won't work in parallel either so I guess for me Bluetti isn't a great choice and they do not have a workaround like EcoFlo and others.
A lot of great information here. Thank you! I just wish someone would show how to physically connect the converter to your car battery, instead of saying, "okay, so this is hooked up to my battery with these wires...". I need more hand holding, lol, and I'm not sure how to get that information.
You could google "how to wire an inverter to your car battery". The converter will be very similar since it also just takes a main positive and negative wire connection.
Have you tried out the Anker Solix C1000? I've had it for a month now and its been great powering my fridge and fan in the truck camper. Looks like the victron would be the best choice back there
@@Jasonoid you're right about that. It fits nicely under my bed platform and hardly takes up any room. It's pretty amazing how I can charge it up from the wall in just under an hour. It's why I'm not rushing to get this victron installed.
Loved the video. Might be a good idea to point out that 20 amps at 36 volts is roughly 60 amps with 12 volts. Many people have trouble with the whole amp/volt/watt thing. 60 amps pulled from your vehicles 12 volt system is a *lot* (a hell of a lot). You will most definitely need special wiring, fuses and alternator considerations. If you are not running the car (no alternator) with that type of regulated converter, you can easily kill the average group 28 battery in less than an hour with that load. Just saying.
The only power station that pulled that type of power was the Anker 767... A full 700 watts (36v at 20amps). All the other power stations have 12 to 15 amp limits which cuts the power down to about 525 watts or so. I'm was pretty clear in the video about proper fuses, wire gauge, and also told people to check their alternator for it's rated power.
@@Jasonoid Understood and you did explain that aspect. That said, if someone gets a 20 amp 36 volt converter, the potential of a 60 amp 12 volt draw exits if other things besides your specific units are involved. The converter will pull 60amps if the draw requests it. Folks have trouble (including me) understanding what the "limiting factor" is. Sure a 20 amp 36 volt converter will only draw 10 amps if that is all that is requested, but if more is requested, it can go to 60amps/12volts. It can be hard to understand what caps the actual draw. You could have a 500amp/12volt converter but it would never draw more than 5 amps if that is all the devices request. If the devices all of a sudden want 500 amps then your system better be ready for it. Very confusing to understand what limits things. As an example, I use a higher rated converter (say 20 amps) under about half the actual load (load is 10 amps) just so that it will stay cool. I found that if I size the converter the same as the draw it gets too hot. I know the load wont go ever 10 amps so I am safe but if for some reason it did, I would have problems.
@@markmonroe7330 totally true, thanks for explaining what you meant. A '500 amp 12v converter' is basically a 12v lead acid battery, short circuit that thing and you'll have 500 amps real quick! Haha When dealing with electricity it's important to always be careful and use the proper safeties. Luckily power stations have over current protection built in so they "shouldn't" ever pull more power than that. I also agree with you that it's best to run these converters at a 50% load for a longer life and cooler operation.
Awesome video🔥. I have a question: If you have a 100w solar panel on your roof, but also have the Victron. Is there a way of having both connected at the same time, or will Victron damage the solar panel, or will it not work properly? Will I need to disconnect and connect them every time I use them? The solar panel will be used when the vehicle is off
Great video! Could you do this in the other direction, to charge the LiFePO4 battery from the Ecoflow using the DC port at the back of it? How fast would that be?
Great info! How about mounting them under the vehicle in a passive ventilated box? Do you see any issue with this such as overheating or water intrusion?
I'd recommend using the Victron for the best long term reliability but that model is not waterproof and does need good airflow. Maybe something in the engine bay would work but probably not underneath the vehicle.
Great info, thanks, this was a lot of work! This might be a dumb question but what are some options to prevent the boost converter from killing your car battery so it doesn't keep charging when the car is off?
The Victron has a switch relay built in that can run off the ignition of your car. Other options will require you to disconnect them when the engine is not running.
Jason your video was very informative especially @15:26 because I have a Bluetti EB3A that I want to charge faster from my car. Through the cig-plug, I get between 12-86 watts and it always jumps around on that as well (must be an EB3A thing). Getting closer to the 200-watt max input seems great ~ double what I'm getting from the 12v cig-plug seems worth it. I am considering either the 10 or 15-amp model because the max input through the MPPT charge controller is 8.5 amps at 12-28vdc. Someone thought the 20 amp would run cooler because it was not working as hard do you agree?
**Which DC Boost converter would you go with? (Affiliate Links)**
-Victron Orion 20 Amp Converter - amzn.to/41JRUPh
-12v to 36v 20 Amp Converter - www.ebay.com/itm/275696879479
-12v to 24v 20 Amp Converter - amzn.to/40rEW7C
I went with cheap one just as a way to get started on the idea.
Hi Jason. Do you have a tutorial where you connect the converter from the starter battery? What did you need?
@@brucereyesss I don't have a specific video. Google "how to wire an inverter to your truck battery" and you'll get some good ideas there for wiring. Then instead of an inverter, use one of these DC to DC converters.
So are these basically the same thing as a renogy 60amp dc to dc battery charger?
@@WindAndWonder ~ These are more like mini transformers that increase the voltage (12v-24v) which lowers the amps (20-10amp). You will get the same watts with either 12v X 20amps = 240 watts, or 24v X 10amps = 240 watts. With a *Delta 2 you can import up to 500 watts via the XT-60 port but only at a 15amp/60 volt limit, so using a 12-48 volt "boost converter" (aka transformer) you can input 48 volts X 10 amps = 480 watts 😎 You can also use a pure sine wave inverter and import up to 1200 watts using the standard A/C charge cord. Charging your *Delta 2 in less than an hour. The only downside to that is the inverter will use some energy while it's running, with a load on it or not.
For anyone wanting to use the 12 - 36v 20amp converter. You can fit 2 x 80mm pc case fans on the top. The unit is 160mm long and 113mm wide. The fan mounting holes line up perfectly in between the cooling fins.
Using the fan mounting holes as a guide tap out 4 x .7 mm threads.
Works very well.
Excellent information, thank you!
I thought I could mount the 12-36v 20amo converter behind the grill for airflow.
Would this be a good idea?
@@seanyoung477 I guess as long as all the connections are waterproof and secure.
@@Jasonoid thank you for the video great information. I do have a question about what size fuse. Would you recommend for 5 feet of six gauge wire we are talking about the 12 V to 36 V unit. It says it peaks at 720 W.
Forgot to mention I’m using Anker F2000/767 power station
This solves a huge problem for me. I really wanted to use an all in one unit for my van build but the lack of decent dc charging through a cigarette lighter plug was a deal breaker. This method now gives you the shore power, solar and dc to dc option that makes an all in one unit an option. Now I don’t have to wade into the build your system from scratch nightmare I was envisioning. Any of those larger units will provide all the power I need and I have the option of taking it out of the van when I need it somewhere else. Thank you!
Your comment makes the whole video worth it, I'm glad I was able to help solve your issue :)
Can you do this with any of the jackery solar generators?
You'll need to confirm the maximum input voltage to make sure you don't go higher than what's allowed. That info should be in the owners manual.
Make sure your alternator can handle the load.
Great video. Does it make any difference having a smart alternator? And would I have to wire it into the ignition so it doesn’t drain my starter battery when not in use?
After watching this a few times and deep diving into the info, I have come to appreciate your knowledge and details of testing and presentation. Bravo!!
Jason, once again, you present useful, practical information that has real world application!
Thank you, Captain :)
this is your BEST video yet! the moment I was thinking like "this needs a fan" and what do you know you did test it with a fan, same goes with wire gauges and the in car demonstration. excellent stuff!
This was a super fun project!
Great demonstration video. People are asking all the time on the solar generator forums how to boost the charging output from their car batteries. This video answers a lot of questions. Thanks for putting this demo together.
You're welcome! If you happen to see one of threads in the forums, just share the video with them 🙂👍
More people need to learn about this!!
I did a more efficient setup with a 12 to 48 volt 15amp boost converter. Mounted right next to the battery in my engine bay, using the engine fan to cool. This allowed me to use smaller gauge wire on the 48v side, running it all the way to the back of the vehicle. This configuration allows you to save money on wiring, less heat loss and no need for a cooling fan!
I'm now charging my AC 180 at 480 watts! This setup will put out 720 watts with a larger power station. Bye-bye, solar! 🤯
I don't get why/how the leads coming off the small one are so thin!!?? Like 18 guage!
You found a waterproof model?
Yes, most boost converters are potted and totally waterproof. I wouldn't go with anything less than 48 volts if your power station will allow it. They are more expensive but usually built better than the small cheap 24v ones. 48v typically come with 8 gauge wire on the input side. Mine is rated for 15 amps, but I'm only pulling 10. Having it overbuilt for your need is it always a good idea.
Yeah I have the variety of sizes he showed and want one device so had to go 24V .
@@user-sg2cf9xq3i But you are only getting around 150 watts to the power station?? 10 amps draw x 13 volts?
So much great info. I've never seen anyone mention the different XT60s for the Ecoflow. 😍
Most vehicles alternators cannot put out 200-250 Amps! Small cars and compact vehicles: 60-80 amps, Mid-size and family sedans: 80-120 amps, Large sedans, SUVs, and light-duty trucks: 100-150 amps, Heavy-duty trucks and large diesel engines: 130-200 amps
Thanks!
Thanks for the donation, MUCH Appreciated! :)
Data overload, Love it. Thanks for all you do Jason.
I succeeded in my goal! Haha you may have to pause the video to see all the info in the graphs! Thanks for checking out the video!
You are a scholar and a gentleman….thank you for sharing your knowledge in a clear and concise manner
I have an ac200max in my Transit van. I installed a 1200 watt pure sine inverter connected to the 175amp 12 volt customer connection point in the van. I use the 500 watt AC power brick that came with the power station to charge it. In addition I have the 12 volt cable that plugs into the 12 volt outlet in the van and the solar input on the Bluetti. You can use both simultaneously and so I can charge at over 500 watts. I have used this for two years without any issue.
What 1200 watt pure sine inverter did you use?
I would love more info on your setup Rick. I am trying to do the same. Thanks!
This guy rocks very helpful and informative as well! I would love to give him 5 Stars!
Another great video Jason! I installed a Renogy 40A DC to DC charger in my Gladiator and it works fantastic.
I use an ecoflow as for my work van to recharge power tool batteries and run random smaller stuff. I charge it from a separate deep cycle that also runs some lights and is only charged from driving, once in a blue moon with an actual charger. The slow charging through the provided cigarette lighter plug is painful at 100ish watt. I solved this with a 12-220v inverter to change the ecoflow, but it seems stupid and is overly complicated to go from car 12v to deep cycle to 220v to ecoflow to 220v chargers to 18v batteries. One of these will simply things a lot, just put in an order. Thanks for the video, came here from your short
Great stuff Jason, you continue to be a huge help on this steep learning curve! FWIW, from reading the comments here and on one or two of your other related videos I'm leaning towards a 500W inverter over a DC converter for price and practicality.
Thanks for the hard work Jason. Really appreciate all you do. You are my go to for this stuff. It helps so much, especially being newer to all this.
Thanks John! Appreciate the feedback
Perfect information for storing battery power for later use while driving around. Decreases waste from fossil fuels and gives you more bang for your buck for each mpg.
Another very good video! I'd get the Victron with the active cooling and adjustable voltage output, so I know it's safe and will work with a wide variety of products. Also, the Victron has a wired on/off option that can be connected to your ignition switch, so it doesn't draw anything unless your vehicle is running (see below!)
It's worth mentioning that none of these are designed with a low-voltage cut-off, so depending on how they're wired they could drain your vehicle battery to the point where it damages it or leaves you with no way to start your vehicle. That's why most DC-DC converters are more complicated and more expensive than these products.
Very good points, Jason. It would be wise to have a system disconnect built in that turns it off when not in use. I wish I would have mentioned that in the video. Thanks for the tip!
Flat starter battery is a non issue now. I have 2 cheap lithium jump startes, both have been thrashed for a couple of weeks when I had a dead battery, and both work perfectly. You should keep one iin your glovebox.
The battery drain problem may be able to be solved by installing a Newdeli 12v 140 amp voltage sensitive relay (battery isolator) - any thoughts?
Great video thank you very much , so I have a Victron isolated B to B 30 amp which will be going to my 200 Amp leisure battery if I connected the Victron voltage boost to my leisure battery to charge a Bluetti 200 would that be ok ? I’m guessing by doing that it’s not going to run my van battery flat ? May be run my leisure battery down , but could put an automatic switch, or will it overload B to B thank you well done good luck 👍👍👍🏴🇬🇧🇨🇦🦢
@nordic5490 do you really think it's OK for your starter batteries to deplete that much?
Great comparison. You could have done this with just one power station, but that would not have been nearly as informative. I learned a lot, thank you soooo much. Real world test with real world results. Awesome
I wanted to show many different scenarios so that the video could apply to many different viewers, more helpful that way :)
2:16 that's one of my favorites movie lines of all time haha
Such a classic, there are so many great quotes from that movie: "Clever Girl", "Hold on to your Butts", "Dinosaurs eat men, women inherit the earth" LOL
You just reminded me that I want to bump up my alternator on my 1966 Mercury Comet. I already bumped it up from 40 or whatever the original was to 100 for AC, Electric Fans, and Electronic Fuel Injection, but since I started rolling around with my EB3A pugged into the cigarette lighter all of the time to get a fast charge on my phone, I've thought about incorporating something bigger. Great video, thanks.
Wow, alternators have sure come a long way in terms of power!
@@Jasonoid Yeah, I did not know the output was so high on the new ones until this video. Lots of possibilities for mobile backup power with this - I want to replace my 6500 watt generator at work with a split phase 48 volt setup, and now I'm thinking about just having it in my truck and plugging into panels in the afternoon when I leave work to top off instead of having everything on a trailer and plugging in a charger occasionally. I monitor 42 groundwater wells with mostly 4 inch grundfos submersibles from 350 to 600 feet every quarter. California will stop selling generators at some point or they will have to be permitted. Right now, anything over 50 hp has to be permitted. Keep it up - the videos are very helpful and inspiring.
@@Jasonoid My 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 came stock with a 105A alternator. After buying a Renogy 40A DC to DC battery charger, I upgraded the alternator to 145A (total) Idle amperage will be lower.
Wow this is some high quality content bro. Subscribed
I can tell a lot of hard work went into this video which is much appreciated. I found this information to be very helpful. This is something I would not do personally as it way too confusing. When you speak this type of information quickly is too hard to absorb. I would need a class just on understanding the capability of just one power station, let alone four of them. It would be interesting to know if anyone has had any adverse effect on the vehicle's alternator or vehicle performance using these devices. It seems like a viable alternative to charging your power station, but I currently lack clear understanding of going from volts to watts; having the right type of connects and so on. I know your very smart about your testing. I one day hope to aspire to reach your confidence and understanding. Your channel gives me general knowledge, but this is not something I would undertake. But I still learned more about alternatives and that is what was important to me.
The learning curve for electricity and solar is a bit steep. You'll pick it up with time if you keep trying to learn. I was in your shoes only a few years ago but having so many resources available and studying I am now much more familiar with how it all works. You'll get there, just keep reading and watching videos :)
Great information. I have been planning on doing this for my Ecoflow delta pro in my Sprinter van conversion. The only thing I have not figured out yet is an automatic transfer switch, so I can keep the solar panels and the alternator charging separated on the single solar input on the Ecoflow. My current plan is to just use a manual transfer switch, which are readily available, but it would be nice to have one that automatically switches to the alternator charging when the vehicle is turned on
If these are using the solar input, could this be wired in parallel with the panels? Would this back feed the car charging system and blow it up? If I could I would like to be able to charge extra when towing the trailer while also charging from the panels installed on the trailer. Any ideas on this.
Awesome video. Very thorough, and best of all, extremely practical.
As to your question about "how do I charge", I have a Renogy DC to DC charger with MPPT connected to my F150. This is wired up to a fuse block & Renogy 2000W inverter. I use the inverter to charge, among other things, my EcoFlow River Pro which will take 600W (I think) input. The inverter's primary function is to power a small microwave while camping.
Installed a 1000W Renogy ac inverter with 4 gauge wire in my vehicle. Charged my EcoFlow River 2 Max at 600W (adjusted max ac charging rate to 600W from EcoFlow app) as a test without any problems. Will be also charge my Delta Max the same way, and can adjust charging rate up or down based need or time on the road driving.
Sweet setup, lots of different ways to skin a cat and that option definitely works! 😁👍
What did you hook your Renogy ac inverter to as the power source?
@@guitarnut5754 the vehicle’s 12v battery. I only turn on the Renogy inverter when the vehicle is running.
Great video, great info! I just bought a portable fridge and Jackery 1000, so your videos are very helpful.
You'll get some great fridge runtimes on the Jackery 1000.
Cool idea! A few things to be cautious of. Don't try this with a hybrid they have very small starting and charging systems. All newer vehicles monitor the alternator output and will set a service light if you over tax the charging system. The light will clear after 3 key cycles though so do not freak out just dial back the draw. Also, when pulling near max power from the alternator you should run another 4ga wire from the alternator to the battery and also add a second ground to the battery and to the alternator. If you are reasonable with the draw this is a great alternative to using a solar panel to charge the power station. Victron all the way, never had 1 issue with any of their products.
Great tips, Mr. Mike! I didn't think of the extra draw going through the grounding of the system. Makes sense for sure!
So gents, I bought the ac200max to boondock with our 35' class a gasser. I'm assuming the alternator on the Triton V-10 engine would not have any troubles with the Victron. 2 questions from an electrical moron (Which is why I bought the ac200max!)1. I'd like to store the bluetti at the back of the rig, would running cables from the engine at the front about 30' back cause me any difficulties in this charging process. (lighter jack is at the front of course.) and 2, could you explain "running another 4ga wire from the battery to the alternator" and the 2 ground cables, ie what gage and specifically from where to where? I'd appreciate the help. Thanks
Not sure about other hybrids, but the Jeep PHEV has an electric motor and dc-dc charger instead of an alternator.
Very helpful video thanks so much. Found you from comment on the Jackery Reddit forum, subbed and will check out your other videos.
The more I see how much even cheap components cost the more I realize what a pretty good deal most commercial power stations like the Ecoflow River 2 Pro are.
Yeah, with everything built into one little compact box, it's sure awesome!
the cheap way to do this would be chassis-> relay -> inverter -> power station's wall charger
You have a ton of great info in this video that I haven't previously considered. Thank you! I have the FFPower (same unit, different brand) and an EcoFlow River Por. So, I think the smaller, cheaper converter would make sense for me.
You must have read my mind about putting a fan on that one converter!
Yep, adding a fan is cheap and easy!
Great information and, as always, well done! My Delta 2 has a 60 DC volt limit, so any of these will work well. However, because there is a 15 amp limit for the Delta 2, a lower amperage converter might work just as well as be less expensive!
Phenomenal information and video! Thanks so much! Love the thermal imaging!
Thanks, Katy!
Epic video. These boost converters are the way to go. I have one of those cheap converters, I need to wire it up!
It sure charges faster with these boosters 👍
What up Doe!?
Honestly I would need two for use with a large (2000w) and smaller(300w) power station. The 12-36v converter and the $35 converter. Great review as usual Dr J' 👍🏼
Excellent testing and analysis. Another option: I have 320 W of solar on my truck cap charging my Delta Max w/ two extra Smart Batteries. This is a duplicate system and backup to that in my travel trailer. This DC-DC arrangement would occupy the solar input port, whereas with an AC inverter in the truck, the Delta Max will accept both inputs simultaneously. My problem was that the built in 400 W inverter in my truck is not pure sine wave, which the Delta Max will not accept. I’ve decided to install a separate 500 W PSW inverter.
FYI, Delta's inverter is pass through when it's plugged into AC power. Therefore you cannot use AC loads greater than the charging inverter (ie. 500W) can handle.
MC4 T branch connectors would have been way cheaper
Good info. On my GoLabs R300 power station that maxes DC charging out at 3A up to 60W, I'd be tempted to get a 12-19V converter for $15. That would up car charging to 57W charging vs 40W, but instead I use a USB-C PD to get near the advertised 60W PD input. Still can power that plus my freezer off the 12V 10A cigarette lighter outlet and 300W pure sine inverter. Bulletproof little inverter that I got for $35, though now it's usually $50 or more.
You could build a crock pot around that 36V unit. 155F isn't very scary until you realize that was probably 120F over ambient, so in the desert you'd routinely see it at boiling temps, where it could be the basis for a rice cooker rather than crock pot.
Great idea using that USBc 60 watt charging option :) Another great option to use for your smaller power stations.
Awesome video. Do you have a video showing how you ran wiring from your alternator to the back of the vehicle? If yes, please provide me the link.
I don't have a video about it. I ran 6awg wire from the battery, down the firewall, under the cab along the frame / truck bed and came up through on of the wire plug holes for the tail light. I used wire loom and heavy duty zip ties to attach it.
@@Jasonoid Thanks.
@@Jasonoid Thank you Jason. Congrats on reaching another RUclips milestone! How do I find out about your live chats ahead of time?
@@CuriousinNY turn on channel notifications for my channel (the little bell next to the subscribe button). I announce the streams on my RUclips community page a few days before each one.
@@Jasonoid what is a RUclips community channel? I actually did have notifications turned on for your channel when I subscribed. I just checked it and saw there is another option for all notifications for your channel. When I subscribed and the bell came up, I thought that was it. How do I join your community page too.
Very interesting video and an apples to apples comparison. Congratulations!!!
wow this is exactly what i need! my 400watt built in ford transit power inverter doesnt charge my anker solix 767 for some reason. and 120watts isnt enough while driving. i was going to try a 1000 watt inverter but this would be much better! thank you!
The 400w inverter is probably a 'modified sine wave' inverter which puts out a rough sine wave. Most power stations won't charge from that type of inverter.
@@Jasonoid thank you thats very helpful!
I'm going with a 400W AC inverter just because i remembered i have one stored away in a locker, but this DC to DC is very interesting.
Going with a 400ac inverter is still a great option :)
@@Jasonoid what's interesting to me is that I could probably run 2 dc converters and get another big power bank 😅
They seems to always be on sale now. Even the 2kwh stuff is starting to become reasonably priced (for my budget)
Awesome video!! Great information for over landing and van life!!
Jason with summer coming can you do the holy grail test about running a window Air Conditioner 24/7 using only solar to recharge batteries. Like show which power station, which batteries, which solar panels, etc.
Plenty of us preppers got emergency sheds that could use your great presentation and explanations. Ty
The only thing is that I don't have a window ac unit and all my windows in my house open sideways, not vertically so it's not the best for hanging one.
DIY Solar with will prowse has some videos running cheep window a/c for cooling his solar for a shed he has playlist solar powered air conditioning
Would be great to see how the additional draw changes any fuel economy of the vehicle, if at all.. 😎
I didn't hear the engine RPM change too much while running these. Most alternators make peak power around 1800 RPM or idle
All my questions were answered. Thanks!!
very nice options and cool comparisons too, I have the Delta Max 2000 but also smaller power stations too, very helpful video, thank you so much. Now let me bring my checkbook to get a Victron, lol.
Shocked the 36V was so efficient!
Love your videos....clear and concise. Thank you
Thanks! This one was really fun to film!
Buying a 12 or 24 volt 100 AH LIPO battery and converter not only expands your solar generators capacity, but with the converter, it will not put unwanted stress on your vehicles battery and alternator..I would advise that method as opposed to charging by vehicle...And you can charge the stand alone battery with solar when the sun is shining from your solar generator, or at home with a charger, depending on your particular situation..There is real risk to your vehicle charging like that..In Quartzsite Arizona I've witnessed many RV fires and destroyed alternators from that very method, over the years..
Sure, it can be a problem if you don't plan accordingly with the proper wire size and such. Running at a 50% load on the alternator should be fine. This is a backup charging solution of solar isn't available... I would always charge with solar first.
Overheating your alternator is a risk. Btw, I have 240AH LFP, plus 2x dcdc charge controllers charging the LFP @ 90A. The methods in this video should not overheat most alternators whilst driving. Do not heavily load your alternator whilst stationary with no airflow.
One good strategy is to use a relay with a10min delay - this allows the alternator to mostly recharge the starting battery b4 charging your house LFP. You can also use a temperature triggered relay, to diconnect from your alternator if the alternator becomes too hot.
@@Jasonoidwhat does that mean running less than 50 %?
Great Video! Subd. Very detailed to include how to connect, which is what I was looking for. I had to purchase my Orion 12/24-20 from NAZ Solar since Amazon was out of stock. Connecting it to my Ford Transit CCP and adding a switch.
That should work well!
Great video Jason Im always learning something from you Thank you 👍🏻
You are very welcome :)
Wow, great testing! That was a lot of work. Thank you!
It was a super fun project. Lots of work but I found lots of great info too. Thanks for checking it out 👍
This is a great video. Learned a lot from you. Thank you.
A small USB fan is what I use to keep my chargers cool. Some of my Type C PD chargers and ones for my power stations get very hot which can`t be good but a small fan blowing on them makes a huge difference, keeps them cool to the touch, and will extend their useful life. These little fans only draw 2 to 5 watts depending on speed setting.
It's crazy what a little fan can do! I had it on the lowest setting which is around 1 watt of power.
@@Jasonoid I just got a new USB fan that ran over 5 days from one of my 15 dollar "phone charger" type power banks...a new record. The power bank is heavy but I think it`s 2800 mAh. It also listed 98 wh in the specs.
Good info! Still a deal-killer for me is that this takes up the solar input on most of these power stations, so you can’t simultaneously charge them from solar and the alternator. A few power stations have two higher-wattage DC inputs but that’s the exception rather than the rule.
Yeah, in that case it might be best to just charge from a 1500 to 2000 watt inverter connected to the battery, depending on how fast your power station charges from AC power.
I use a couple of MC4 T branch connectors when I want to add my little REDARC solar panel that's on my camper
@@cilupercioAre you connecting the solar and DC to DC in Parallel to you power stations input?
I’m wanting to do this with my solar and the Victron 12-24 into my EB70S input.
The Bluetti ac200max can have your solar going in through the a.c. port, with the charge enhancer D050S, and alternator going in through the pv port. AND vice versa, so you CAN do it with the Bluetti ac200max at least, it's very flexible in that regard.
Compared so these brands and finally chose Pecron E2000LFP, because in terms of features and value for money, it seems to be the best choice, FFPOWER can not be extended, AC200MAX and Ecoflow is too expensive, of course, E2000LFP does lack of Bluetooth control, but this for the 55-year-old me is not affected
great video. I have pecron e600lfp. I bet the 36v converter will max out the solar input. thanks
Yeah, that will put quite a bit of charging into that little beast.
There's a difference between the XT60 and XT60-I (with additional pin). That pin is key to negotiating the higher current.
Like the video, very interesting, I ran a wire from my car battery to the back and made a wire to connect to my trailer with 150 amp Anderson connectors for a dc to dc charger.
All you have to do is run a big enough wire to your battery to where ever you are going to put the charger for it to work, right? No messing around with the alternator and I think probably not a great idea to wire directly to the alternator because the battery should give you cleaner or safer input power.
Correct, connect your wire run to the starter battery. The alternator will keep it charged up when you are pulling your load. No changes to the alternator needed.
Good info I’ve been running a 12v fridge with a solar panel with a 24v to 12v step down converter with no battery so when nice and sunny I am not putting the wear and tear on the battery bank. Just think it is cool a fridge running totally off a solar panel.
I love running these 12v fridges while camping. Having a battery and solar panel setup can give you unlimited runtime, if the conditions are good :)
You could remove the Voltage regulator from your Alternator to get near 250 Volts with up to 200 Amps.
And use a Rectifier only and input that into the solar input of the Powerstation.
Then your power station becomes the Voltage regulator at 48 volts.
That would max out your solar inputs on all of them.
And then use the 12 Volt output of the powerstation to charge your car Battery.
Or you could even have 2 dedicated alternators.
One to charge the 12 Volt Battery and the other to charge the Powerstation.
Hi Jason, I passed your excellent video to an electrician to carry out an install to charge my Ecoflow Delta Max (old model) from my 12v van battery. He chose to use the Victron Orion Charger 12/24v 15A, because he recommended the way it can be adjusted to cut out for low voltage input, to protect my car battery. It seemed otherwise to have a spec comparable to the Victron you used, and it's set to output 30V. However, when i connect with the Ecoflow solar cable (and XT60i connector), it registers a charge of 400w plus (13A x 30v?) for a few moments then cuts out to zero, and carries on cycling in and out. The installer managed to make a stable charge once, but couldn't repeat it. He made up a regular xt60 cable and achieved a stable 250w (8A x 30v?), but that's a bit disappointing (the Ecoflow also said it would take 4 days to charge, which it didn't, of course). Any ideas what's going wrong, or how we could sort it?
What happens if you turn down the Victron output voltage a little bit? Like instead of 30v, try 27v or 28v with the Xt60i. When it's turned all the way over to 30v, it might be working too hard.
@@Jasonoid thanks Jason. I understand the installer tried that yesterday and it didn’t help. I’ll ask him tomorrow (and try myself). We’re also going to try making our own xt60i cable rather than the long ecoflow one.
Those New'r Little CArs Have On Demand ALternator, not Sure@ How This Affects This Test ?
I'm sure if the alternator sensed the battery voltage dropping below a certain threshold, it would start charging the battery again. I don't think you'd see many issues.
I was really looking forward to this Review after seeing the short video and Livestream, I'm looking forward towards the Bluetti AC180 next. I'm debating weather or not its the AC200p Replacement ( I know it has lower PV volts but the other things are nice)
Compare the AC180 to the Delta 2, it's almost identical. Key word is Almost haha
@@Jasonoid I would have to admit......I am a fan of Bluetti, Not a fan of their customer service< I like Delta's App better but I hate their Fans, they are loud compared to the competition.
@@Moes_Prep_and_Tech I'm just saying the specs are identical (pretty much). Not saying either option is better or worse.
Why not use an inverter and charge at 1000w ac?
Guess just for the efficiency. ?🤔
Hardwire and mount inside cab.
Nice job! Have not seen this covered similarly.
Hadn't seen this video until now. The cooling fan is a great idea. To improve cooling of each converter without using a fan, raise it off the surface they are resting on by attaching "feet" to the base of each unit. This would allow cooler air to pass beneath each unit, exposing more surface area to cooler ambient air temperatures.
This may not work if the converter is in an enclosed compartment. Forcing outside air into the compartment would improve cooling measures.
Great tip!
Finally someone made this video! Now all of our heads can stop spinning for this one issue keeping us from doing a plug n play system. Question….Would my already installed Renogy 20-40A DC-DC charger work? Any idea what the max Amp input is on that Bluetti plug?
If you use a DC to DC charger it doesn't really give you higher voltage output. The key to faster charging is the higher volts. If you charge at 12v you'll see around 100 watts on your power station (that's what you'll see with the DC to DC charger as well since it's designed for charging a 12v battery). If you want more wattage you gotta get the volts higher like the DC to DC converters used in the video.
Will this work with a Oupes mega 2?
Yes, of course!
I've pretty much settled on an AC200MAX for a van build but was nervous about slow alternator charging - especially in the winter. This looks like a game changer, so thanks for that! 😊
I read that the Victron DC-DC converters can be connected in parallel. Is that likely to overload the alternator and, if not, would it actually double the charging rate? I think the bluetti van take 900W solar.
The AC200max only has one charging input. The amperage limit is maxed out with one Victron, so I wouldn't recommend two of them. The only way to get more power would be to go higher with your voltage on the one port.
Excellent video, simply you are a rock star!
Great video Jason!
Thanks, Bluetti! 😁
great info.. I have a Bluetti ac200max with 400w solar in my skoolie. I want the ability to charge when off grid on a cloudy day. thanks
These converters are da bomb for that! Enjoy!
Hahah all those sweet power stations in the back of your truck! Nice flex! 😂
I need people to click on the video and watch it... Maybe it well help? LOL 😂
Great video and timely as I have the EB3a and the new Renogy Phoenix 1000 to play with. A quick suggestion to mull over:
Maybe mount the converter under the hood, in the airflow with shorter 4-6 AWG cables to the battery and run the 10 AWG output cables to the back with a DC breaker as a shutoff switch. That would save money as larger cable is expensive, airflow will help cool it and it is easier to run the smaller output cable that far.
My exact thought as well.
That might work well to keep it cool, maybe mount it somewhere near the main fan airflow. Thanks for the suggestion!
Great video! Thanks. I'd really like your opinion on the Vtoman power stations. They seem to have great specs for a great price.
I havent reviewed one of those on the channel yet. They seem to be getting better and better.
Multiple charge controllers on the same solar panel?
Jason i have the Delta Max 2000 as you know you can go direct from the solar array into it on the XT60I PLUG..and at same time use the grid to charge simultaneously.
My question is...is there a way to split or Y the same solar array into a separate charge controller system to battery then to DC a AC inverter to also plug into the 3 prong 110 input electric port on the delta max
so off one solar array you can bring charge into the delta max by 2 different ways at the same time ..one the straight solar and at the same time the AC 110 input through inverter ...just don't know if theirs a way to Y The solar to 2 different units at same time .
BTW I did hook up my power queen 12v 190ah 150 BMS TO a 480W 12V to 48V 10A DC DC Converter Step Up Voltage Regulator and I'm getting over 500w input on the XT60I input
Nice summary Jason!
Great video! I wonder if you have looked at the Orion Tr Smart product? It is all a bit above my understanding, but I think that product has a way to shut off the charging when the engine is not running. Just a thought for a future video!
I have had a few people mention that device. It would be useful so you don't run your battery down when the engine isn't running.
quality comparative analysis. thanks
Excellent video, Jason! Thanks so much for putting this out. I have a Bluetti EB70 (800W 716Wh) in my teardrop trailer I typically charge with solar panels, but was hoping to charge with my 2023 Forester if needed. In all honesty, I don't know anything about this. What is your recommended setup for this application? I didn't mind spending a few hundred dollars on the project...
The EB70 can't take too high of a voltage, only 28v. It's best to purchase a 12v to 24v boost converter for that model to charge faster.
@@Jasonoid Thanks for the quick response and great knowledge!
I have a very old video about charging tips for the EB70.... It could be a bit crindgy since it's an older video lol...
ruclips.net/video/_7l8hoNebDY/видео.html
@@Jasonoid It was great! I seem to have a hard time finding videos using Bluetti EB70's.
@@Jasonoid I'm so sorry to bug you again, but can you please recommend a switch, fuse, and wiring I'll need for this setup?
I used the small 12>24V unit with my Delta 2 Max and it died after about 2 weeks of use. I replaced it with the Victron unit and it has been working fine for several months now. So I suggest avoiding the cheaper units if you want reliability.
The Victron is great! For anyone wanting to use a 12v to 24v converter, I'd suggest purchasing the 20 amp model or larger so it's only running at 50% load when running. It will last much longer. If you have a 5 or 10 amp model it's like running your car engine at full RPMs all the time, it's gunna die.
This is great! Thanks for sharing.
Awesome info! Would you recommend the Victron or now your most recent review of the Pecron DC booster?
The Victron is a great option, probably a little higher quality than the Pecron, you just have to work out all the wiring and fuses yourself.
About the amps on alternator: My alternator says 12V 80A. You said make sure not to go beyond half the capacity. I am confused because in the testing you only talked about watts......🤔
Got to say that I had a problem with the ac200 max not reading battery percentage right, but Bluetti has been helpful, not sure if we have it fixed yet but it is nice to have customer service. Will try to update if I can.
Glad to hear they are helping you out. Usually cycling the power station at 500 watts will help fix that issue. Discharge the unit fully at a ~500 watt load till it's empty, then charge at a ~500 watt load till full. Do that a few times and it will calibrate the capacity shunt.
I have the Victron converter with a BLUETTI 200l. I have 14v coming in and 29v out of the converter but only 225 w charging using the BLUETTI xt90. I didn’t see anywhere that the BLUETTI needed the “I” connector like the eco Flo. Any ideas why I’m not getting 400w. Thank you
I didn't test with the AC200L in the video I tested with the older AC200max so they might perform differently. Do you have the DC input set to solar in the smart app?
@@Jasonoid I do have it set for solar. I'm waiting to hear back from Bluetti and will post back if they have a solution. Thank you.
FYI for others out there Bluetti confirmed that the victron dc to dc will not work with the 200L. They said 30V and less will be limited to 8Amps. My two cigs panels won't work in parallel either so I guess for me Bluetti isn't a great choice and they do not have a workaround like EcoFlo and others.
A lot of great information here. Thank you! I just wish someone would show how to physically connect the converter to your car battery, instead of saying, "okay, so this is hooked up to my battery with these wires...". I need more hand holding, lol, and I'm not sure how to get that information.
You could google "how to wire an inverter to your car battery". The converter will be very similar since it also just takes a main positive and negative wire connection.
@@Jasonoid Yep. I'll check it out. Thanks!
Have you tried out the Anker Solix C1000? I've had it for a month now and its been great powering my fridge and fan in the truck camper. Looks like the victron would be the best choice back there
I'll be putting out my Anker C1000 review video soon. It's a great unit. Super compact, decent solar, powerful inverter.
@@Jasonoid you're right about that. It fits nicely under my bed platform and hardly takes up any room. It's pretty amazing how I can charge it up from the wall in just under an hour. It's why I'm not rushing to get this victron installed.
Loved the video. Might be a good idea to point out that 20 amps at 36 volts is roughly 60 amps with 12 volts. Many people have trouble with the whole amp/volt/watt thing. 60 amps pulled from your vehicles 12 volt system is a *lot* (a hell of a lot). You will most definitely need special wiring, fuses and alternator considerations. If you are not running the car (no alternator) with that type of regulated converter, you can easily kill the average group 28 battery in less than an hour with that load. Just saying.
The only power station that pulled that type of power was the Anker 767... A full 700 watts (36v at 20amps). All the other power stations have 12 to 15 amp limits which cuts the power down to about 525 watts or so.
I'm was pretty clear in the video about proper fuses, wire gauge, and also told people to check their alternator for it's rated power.
@@Jasonoid Understood and you did explain that aspect. That said, if someone gets a 20 amp 36 volt converter, the potential of a 60 amp 12 volt draw exits if other things besides your specific units are involved. The converter will pull 60amps if the draw requests it. Folks have trouble (including me) understanding what the "limiting factor" is. Sure a 20 amp 36 volt converter will only draw 10 amps if that is all that is requested, but if more is requested, it can go to 60amps/12volts. It can be hard to understand what caps the actual draw. You could have a 500amp/12volt converter but it would never draw more than 5 amps if that is all the devices request. If the devices all of a sudden want 500 amps then your system better be ready for it. Very confusing to understand what limits things. As an example, I use a higher rated converter (say 20 amps) under about half the actual load (load is 10 amps) just so that it will stay cool. I found that if I size the converter the same as the draw it gets too hot. I know the load wont go ever 10 amps so I am safe but if for some reason it did, I would have problems.
@@markmonroe7330 totally true, thanks for explaining what you meant. A '500 amp 12v converter' is basically a 12v lead acid battery, short circuit that thing and you'll have 500 amps real quick! Haha
When dealing with electricity it's important to always be careful and use the proper safeties. Luckily power stations have over current protection built in so they "shouldn't" ever pull more power than that. I also agree with you that it's best to run these converters at a 50% load for a longer life and cooler operation.
@@Jasonoid well that was a very useful discussion. thankyou.
Awesome video🔥. I have a question:
If you have a 100w solar panel on your roof, but also have the Victron. Is there a way of having both connected at the same time, or will Victron damage the solar panel, or will it not work properly? Will I need to disconnect and connect them every time I use them?
The solar panel will be used when the vehicle is off
@emap6826. I have the same question. Did you ever get that answered.?
I’m planning on connecting the solar and Victron in parallel.
@emap6826. I have the same question. Did you ever get that answered.?
I’m planning on connecting the solar and Victron in parallel.
Great video! Could you do this in the other direction, to charge the LiFePO4 battery from the Ecoflow using the DC port at the back of it? How fast would that be?
Check out the EcoFlow Alternator Car Charger
Great info! How about mounting them under the vehicle in a passive ventilated box? Do you see any issue with this such as overheating or water intrusion?
I'd recommend using the Victron for the best long term reliability but that model is not waterproof and does need good airflow. Maybe something in the engine bay would work but probably not underneath the vehicle.
What about the new ecoflow charger ? 800
Excellent and useful video!
Glad it was helpful!
Great info, thanks, this was a lot of work! This might be a dumb question but what are some options to prevent the boost converter from killing your car battery so it doesn't keep charging when the car is off?
The Victron has a switch relay built in that can run off the ignition of your car. Other options will require you to disconnect them when the engine is not running.
Jason your video was very informative especially @15:26 because I have a Bluetti EB3A that I want to charge faster from my car. Through the cig-plug, I get between 12-86 watts and it always jumps around on that as well (must be an EB3A thing). Getting closer to the 200-watt max input seems great ~ double what I'm getting from the 12v cig-plug seems worth it. I am considering either the 10 or 15-amp model because the max input through the MPPT charge controller is 8.5 amps at 12-28vdc. Someone thought the 20 amp would run cooler because it was not working as hard do you agree?
Yeah, to get the best life span you'll want to get a larger DC converter so it runs at a 50% load instead of 100%. I'd recommend the larger option.