CORRECTION There’s one small part of the video I want to clear up as I didn’t convey it very well. The pre-made 5meter cable is 6AWG, as a Brit we don’t use AWG we use mm2. But using a conversion chart for this is normal. 6AWG is the equivalent of the nearest metric size 16mm2 which is rated too 110A, so the 125A fuse used is too large. However, physically 6AWG in metric is 13.3mm2 which is rated even lower and still the 125 amp fuse is too large
Fuse can be 125% load or next nearest (above) fuse size. Fuses are not made in proper increments. That’s why a wire rated at 100amp has a working range of up to 150amp. Unless you use crappy wires. Also, USA code and EU code is not always in sync
I've watched a few reviews of this product and yours was by far the best. Specifically, you dealt with frying the alternator by pulling too much charge from it - and how to avoid this problem. You also brought up the usefulness of battery maintenance mode, which I wasn't aware of. So thanks.👍
Glad you found my new helpful. I do my best to try and make the reviews of units a bit more technical. As for frying Alternators, I felt it was an important part to look at as many car have way smaller alternators than my van and this is a pretty larger DCDC charger
@5:03 Ferrite Bead A ferrite bead is a passive electronic component used to suppress high-frequency noise in electronic circuits. Behavior and purpose... Function: Ferrite beads filter high-frequency noise energy over a broad frequency range. They become resistive within their intended frequency range, dissipating noise energy as heat. Construction: Typically, ferrite beads are small cylindrical or bead-shaped devices made from ferrite material-a ceramic compound containing iron oxide (Fe3O4) and other metal oxides. Their design ensures high impedance to high-frequency noise signals while allowing low-frequency signals to pass through with minimal loss. Model: A simplified circuit model for a ferrite bead includes resistors, an inductor, and a capacitor. The key components are: DC Resistance (R_DC): Represents the bead’s resistance at direct current (DC). Parasitic Capacitance (C_PAR): Associated with the bead. Bead Inductance (L_BEAD): Determines its behavior. AC Resistance (R_AC): Reflects core losses. Response Regions: Ferrite beads exhibit three response regions: Inductive: Before the crossover frequency, the bead behaves inductively. Resistive: Desired for noise reduction, this region occurs after the crossover frequency. The bead acts like a resistor, dissipating high-frequency noise as heat. Capacitive: Beyond the resistive region, the bead becomes capacitive.
This looks like Google translate. This sentence if read literally makes no sense at all. "A simplified circuit model for a ferrite bead includes resistors, an inductor, and a capacitor." What's actually implied here is that it acts like one of these components depending on a frequency. There is no actual circuit inside, it's just a piece of ferrite shaped like toroid.
Hey man, just wanted to express sincere thanks for this video! It's the first of yours I've seen, and certainly the best on this product. Instant sub. Watched it straight through, then clicked on a video of you getting stopped by Russian guards on a hike. Looking forward to more :P
I am surprised. Great, great job, mate . I have watched many videos reviewing this charger, but I have never seen something like this. this a fulllll review and literally everything I need to know. thanks alot you deserve more than like
Great information and well explained. On a note I tend to watch videos at 1 1/2 times speed but not with yours as it’s not necessary. Looking forward to your 4x4 van series 👍. Cheers Richie.
I love the video I'll have to watch it several times due to the fact I'm new to this kind of stuff the only thing I would suggest for newbies is possibly you slow down talking it's sometimes hard to follow but after watching it several times I understand more and more each time thanks for doing the video
@@MispronouncedAdventures yes sir. I’d be curious how it measures up to you Victron. There are some days I wish I had an auxiliary dc/dc charger to put in our second starter battery. It may overwhelm the alternator though. Thanks for the vids
I think that it’s quite hard to make it comparison. Because a Victron DCDC charger is for charging a standard leisure battery whilst this is specifically for EcoFlow power station. so neither can do each other’s jobs.
I'm a security dog handler and i work nights / stay away in rural settings for the most part, i discovered your channel because i bought a mk 8 Transit, love the adventures! All of your early build stuff was super useful to me but the in depth electrical stuff is frankly beyond me so i went with 400w of solar and the Delta max 2000wh. It's honestly ridiculous how good these are for people with no eletrical knowledge to get started and be comfortable, just a shame they dont run diesel heaters! I'm thinking a combination of this and a suitcase generator would keep me afloat "in the field" whatever the time of year. If that had an automatic starter maintenance mode for the diesel heater / fridge that would be amazing, hopefully they add that in the future, i'd buy it today if that was a feature.
@TobyCostaRica None of the powerpacks do that I'm aware of. The start up load it's too high for the 12v outlet and they trip out, it could easily run it if it was already running but that's not much help.
@TobyCostaRica all of them have 10 amp 12v sockets which isn't enough to run any of the diesel heaters I have seen on start up. If you can get it to work for you then that's great but I know for a fact it tripped mine out, which is a 10 amp 12v socket. The same as the tech specs for the packs you mentioned.
Hey Great Video! Would you be able to explain the difference between the reverse charging and battery maintenance feature. Seems like its essentially the same thing no? Wouldn't the reverse charging mode allow you run a diesel heater of the starter battery and the reverse charging would keep the starter battery topped up?
They do the same thing. Reverse charging seems to be the high output charging current. Good for charging a starter battery if it was flat. Maintenance mode seems more like a low trickle to keep the starter battery topped up/preventing it from becoming flat
I’d disagree in the RUclips context. Whilst they are different things. Terms used for RUclips are “collaboration” as they are one-off / single contracts and named as such in contract. Sponsorship are long term contracts with brands not specific to any one video. Whilst ive worked with EcoFlow many times they are only one off contracts per videos.
@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk I get paid for them and the products. still in the context of RUclips. sponsorship is not the used term, collaborations is. Collab, sponsorship, partnership, in the terms of RUclips they are just rightly or wrongly it’s interchangeable terms often. I literally have hundreds of emails wanting to collaborate and collaboration from companies, little sponsorship and partnership. It’s the terminology used for RUclips single term contract are normally called collaboration predominantly. Whilst the actual definition maybe be more correct toward “sponsorship”.
Nobody has to watch if they don’t want to! It was stated multiple times at the start that this was a collaboration, so it’s very clear. In my opinion as a viewer, sponsorship would imply that all videos have to be branded.
@@CaliLeaks it’s always on a per video basis as far a viewers are concerned. Collaborations are amongst equals. Sponsorship is a different transaction. Two RUclipsrs can have a collaboration. Perhaps it’s a loophole in YT policy. But if one gets paid to do a service, there is no colab. Then again, perhaps my understanding of the English language is not up to the task. But a corporate / creator arrangement is always one sided contract work.
Nice thermals readings on the unit. I’m considering doing this install under a seat in my truck which is right where a foot AC vent is and should keep the unit nicely cool while driving
Helpful video, thanks. I am picking up a VW Transporter (with a 140 smart alternator) on Monday. What setting would you suggest is safe to use for my alternator?
@@Mark.Woodyatt a good rule of thumb for alternators is an auxiliary load shouldn’t be more than one third of the alternator’s capacity. A third of 140A is 46A. So around 600W it should be happy. It’s only a conservative rule, however so 800W might be fine. But might get a little on the warmer side if idling on a hot day
@MispronouncedAdventures that's great news, I'll dial it down to 600, that's still pretty good & I can crank it up to 800 when travelling not idle. 👌 Cheers fella.
Hello there. Thanks for the great video. I just purchased the EF alternator charger to use on my 2017 Subaru Forester. I know almost absolutely nothing about power except what you've just taught me in this video, lol. According to a google search AI says my alternator should be 130 amps (not sure how to tell if this is accurate) - you mentioned scaling it back for smaller alternators. Seems mine is a bit in the middle/on the lower side. You have any recommendations for how many watts I should set this to??? Any info is super helpful, thanks so much! Loving your videos btw.
oh, sorry. I see you did already answer this below. Sorry, didn't see that one before. So looks like 1/3 of 130 - around 43 amps (and a car battery is 12v?) so 43amps x 12v = I should probably run it around 400 watts or so, to be safe? Just double checking that I understand. Thanks so much!!!
No problem at all one of the easier ways to figure out the alternator in a vehicle is to turn the light on on your phone. Send it to record and then shove it down the back of the alternator to see if you can film the sticker on the back of it that’s usually the easiest way to figure out! As for settings you are correct starter batteries are “12v” but the charge voltage of the alternator output will probably be something around 14.6V. So you could do 43A x 14.6v. I’d say probably around 550-600W would be fine. It is also a more conservative rule of thumb to be extra safe the 1/3 capacity. Some people do use half a capacity but personally I think that’ll be too much idle.
Absolutely brilliant review and set up video thanks - I am yet to buy a Portable power station for my Motorhome as I am waiting to see what specs I will need as I need a CPAP machine. I currently use a Honda generator to top up the batteries. The Ecoflow Delta Max 2 M Pro and Bluetti AC200L are on my wanted list and possibly changing the two130ah Leisure AGM Batteries to Lithium and adding solar and a B2B or one of these Ecoflow chargers. Can the two systems run side by side ? or would I need to upgrade my Alternator (120amps) Fiat 2.8 JTD 2002 aircon spec as well due to the extra load? Also what solar panels do you recommend thanks.
Basically these "alternator chargers" make your vehicle's alternator power into an inverter generator. The inverter generator technology has been around for a bit, and that was easier for me to accept for some reason when it first came out. Maybe because "inverter generator" is a more applicable description. Very cool, if spendy. I really like the battery tender feature to your 12 volt lead acid starter battery so there is not only no fear of running down your starter battery, but it is actually getting stroked.
A bit different from inverter generator technology as that’s DC to AC. Whilst alternator charges like this are more using DC to DC technology. DCDC technology has also been around for awhile but usually it doesn’t have such a slick designed for a specific product line. And package into unit which does multiple different things.
Nice review. The only question I have. Can it be used in automatic mode with charging the car battery when the voltage drops low? And automatically charge itself when the engine is running? Or I need to switch it manually?
At this moment in time it can only automatically turn on to charge the power station when the engine is running. It has to be at the moment manually turned on to charge the starter battery from the power station which is a shame. I think it would be a great feature if it could maybe be a future software update
@ thank you for the fast reply. It’s very strange that it can’t. So if I put it manually, can it be done automatically? For example I have a solar panel plugged in to Delta2 and it is connected to the cars battery through this device. Can I leave the car at parking for several weeks and be sure, the vehicles battery will be never discharged?
Great backup system for anyone traveling to more remote areas or as you say those that dont have an extensive system in their vehicle. Once the cost gets closer to a full "simple" system, can see this being a route more take sue to the simple install
For my use, I like it that it could be an an excellent back up system. For a main system error. Whilst using as the primary is definitely possible, it would be significantly more expensive potentially than a traditional system ( versus the performance ) although portability would be added feature
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yep it’s a great way to have additional security for a trip where having a way to heat / cook or run your fridge while you repair or wait for parts. Just a little cost prohibiting atm, but as technology advances the cost will likely drop
Awesome idea regarding running a diesel heater from the vehicle battery whilst then maintaining it from the Ecoflow, hadn't thought of that. Have a D2M which can service my needs for about 5 days off grid without topping up. Now I've installed the alternator charger I didn't really want to run a separate battery just for the diesel heater but this would work perfectly.
It’s definitely a new opening for running a heater on systems using a powerstation at the core. I’ve feedback to ecoflow directly with my collaboration contacts ( they do often ask for feedback ) regarding battery maintenance mode automatically turning on when the engine is off being a great potential feature to support this type of use. ( opposed to the manual turn on it currently is )
I don’t see why not, and I thought the same. If you can get the EcoFlow XT60 cable for it. I’m the 500W mode from reaching the manual it’s a fixed 40V output ( not a 48 V charge profile like the normal cable ). so as long as the power station XT60 socket can accept 40v it should be, also check the max amps of the powerstation socket as well
Could this be fitted even if you have a BTB already fitted to the leisure battery?Could fitting both cause damage to the alternator do you think?Really enjoyed the video,thank you.
I had done all the firmware updates I could do at the time . some of my other Brit content creators had the issue of the wave not charging? Where firmware versions did you have and where are you based?
Can it be connected to the vans leisure battery rather than the vehicles starter battery? My leisure battery is charged when the engine is running. Great video
Yes. Whilst I haven’t tested that, it also refers in the manual it can be connected to a “RV battery”. Which I assume is meaning a habitation / leisure battery. I assume if you were charging the leisure battery ( via solar, hook up or DCDC from the engines ) and it reached over 13 or 14 V ( EcoFlow turn on voltage ) because it was becoming fully charged it would automatically turn on the EcoFlow charger to charge the power station or the opposite of reverse charging the leisure battery from power station. Whilst I don’t quite know how the automated features would work, you could definitely turn aspects of it on manually via the app.
I’m liking this!👍🏼 I originally ran a 4m long 35mm to feed 2x 12/12/30’s but now the Orion xs50 is out I’m going for that instead. I’ve planned to get an Ecoflow unit as a backup so this would be a great solution to fast charge on the move!! So let’s say I take the 35mm to a 2 way fuse box, then a 16mm to the xs50 and this ..run 0.5m for each from fuse to unit. That’s about 1500w apx draw /125A inc losses.. at 12.8v and both units charging at full power. Slightly over the 35mm volt drop recommended but not much. The 35mm is run under the van in conduit btw. I’m sure I saw really quick in the app you could limit the output from 800w using a slider like for the delta 2? I know you said it starts up at 100w ..if so that would be great to be able to limit when needed to say 500w and then charge at full when I’ve switched the xs50 off/main battery full or even on tick over for a bit. Im definitely interested! Nice review..sorry for the long comment, I geek out with this stuff like you 😆
Yes you can limit the output of the alternator charger to well below 800 W which is great for the systems already having DCDC charges in. 35mm2 @ 4 meters should be well within the maximum of the cable. There might be a slight amount of voltage drop was the correct fusing it will be safe.
This phone holder is a “ARNARKOK FWL-02” it’s on my Amazon list. I replaced the original one the thermal camera came with and the handle itself is the handle the thermal camera comes with
This is really nice for a simple plug in solution that the ecoflow can control. You can use a much cheaper DC:DC charger or simple boost converter. Select suitable wattage. If you want reverse boost feature, use Anderson connectors for input and output and to boost you reverse them.
I’d says there is different here between a 12-48 DCDC converter/ boost converter / buck boost like you have mentioned. They are definitely cheaper, but coming a converter to this isn’t the best comparison. Converters like you said are normally fixed voltage output, which is great as a power supply but not the best option for charging a battery / cells directly like this unit does DCDC chargers like this have a charge profile, this case specifically for charger profile 48V lifepo4 chemistry. Which is why the output is a 40-60V range and the reverse charging is again a 12V ( or 24V ) charger profile for a start battery.
@@MispronouncedAdventures DCDC converter can generate higher voltage that can then be connected to an EcoFlow solar input. The EcoFlow MPPT itself takes care of the charge profile to charge itself.
@Steve-ph4ec if you use the XT60 connector version of the EcoFlow to convert it it is exactly that. Fixed 40V output into the MPPT to charge. It’s just less powerful than the normal way as maybe power stations limited the MPPT xt60 to 10A a lot ( some are higher )
@@MispronouncedAdventures I was referring to using a different device, a dc-dc step up converter that connects to the XT60. For example the Daygreen 12 to 48 v at 10 A for $70 Amazon ASIN B07KQTLW77 that gets you 480W. Or perhaps more reliable with cooling fan, the Victron Energy Orion 12/24-Volt 20 amp which can actually output up to around 30V to get you 300W since as you say the EcoFlow XT60 often limits to 10A. So yes, less that the 800W EcoFlow unit but if you are driving long enough distance you may have enough time before your next stop to fully recharge.
@Steve-ph4ec oh sorry I understand yeah that is a system people have using a well it works for just charging a little bit less flexibility on programming but definitely works
2 more episodes to come in that one. one should be next week. I’m away leading a trip in the Indian Himalaya at the moment so I’ve set up when I’ve got finished to come out while I’m way. In this case something paid collaborations have fixed release dates as well
Great video as always. I currently have a VW T5.1 with a split charger charging my Leisure Battery. Will this still work OK or will my alternator die under too much load
I have a T3 Syncro van😊 it currently has a 65 amp alternator. What setting would you recommend? I could upgrade to a 90 amp alternator? What setting would then be possible?
Just googled it and it seems a 60 amp alternator can output about 780 W so setting the alternator charger up to receive about 400 W should be fine. I would think!
Excellent review but I can't see a use for me, all options already covered. I would be interested in the obd engine monitor. Apologies if already covered, can't find it in your history.
It’s definitely an item which many with the existing traditional system would not need at all. But opens and options for others. OBD2 is a Konnwei KW206, a great bit of kit
Hi good review have you tested it's charging capacity whilst on the move?Ive had one for a few months now. Charging a Delta Max from 2016 sprinter. It's dialed down to 500W and battery starting voltage 13.5V but it cuts out whilst driving. Be interesting to know your thoughts.
That’s sounds like Smart Regen with your sprinter smart alternator. Smart alternators can drop the voltage and output when driving at they think the starter battery is fully charged.
Great video, I didn't realise this existed and it's just what I needed to charge my Ecoflow Delta Max. Just followed your link to Amazon to order one but your discount code doesn't work. Is it correct?
Glad you found the video you saw just checked into what you said. I think reading the information I was sent. the 10% code is for the EcoFlow sale in general, but that excludes the newly launched alternator charger I’m afraid
Whats the difference between using an alternator charger and using a car inverter, maybe 1000 watt, and just plugging into that to recharge? Thwy both need to be wired in and pricing doesnt seem too different?? Thanks.
@@stevenmaniscalco1439 end goal would be the same sort of. An inverter looses some efficiency over converting 12V DC up to AC ( 230v or 110v ) and then the power station converting AC back down to 48V DC. the EcoFlow charger is DC to DC ( 12-48v ) so less conversion and less losses. Additionally, for this and inverter would only be one way. The EcoFlow charger is bi-directional. so could charge your flat starter battery if needed. Additionally, the EcoFlow charger would turn itself on and off automatically with the engine. I guess whilst the end goals could be somewhat similar one as an inverter where you could power any AC item, charging a power station would lose efficiency. The EcoFlow charger is more than just a charger and it’s directly integrated into the power station for charging.
I'm a trucker. I could buy a ~1500w pure sine wave inverter to be installed in my truck to run a hot plate (850w), TV, small electronics/chargers, and my gaming laptop (265w), but I would rather buy something like an Ecoflow Delta 2. Could you please explain if that would work for my needs?
To be fair, if you have a traditional electric system in your truck that might work well for you and be all you need What you would gain from a Delta 2 is portability and simplicity of a single unit
Seems those smaller XT cable options are not available yet? I guess you could modify the current cable with any connector, XT90 for Bluetti AC200L. Thanks for heads up.
I don’t think you could modify the current cable to be any connector as the current 800 W version is a 48V charge profile output and cable itself contains positive, negative and communications pins which speak to the power station itself. The 500W XT60 cable appears to be a on thr spec sheet just to be a fixed 40 V output, which is fine because that’s going into other power stations which except up to 40V in there XT60 port, which usually is a power stations MPPT solar controller at the higher voltages. The MPPT itself would be sorting the charge profile for charging the power station native voltage.
@MispronouncedAdventures Thank you for showing the specifications page in the manual. Very helpful. @dhdoctors I just got off the phone with technical support before watching this video as I had the same question you have. They confirmed it is in development, they are prepping for manufacturing and it is currently in testing. The estimate is that this will be more information in a few months, though they could not confirm this timeline for sure. I asked if this will be a separate cable/adapter or if it will be an entirely separate kit. It sounded like from their response that this will be an entirely separate unit/kit due to the wattage difference and a simple adapter cable will not be available. This is most likely due to the wattage/voltage limit that @MispronouncedAdventures mentioned as well as the lack of communication to other units. It's disappointing the that XT60 version will be limited to 40V/500W as I have a Bluetti AC200MAX and B300 battery that both could accept the higher 48V-60V. So non-EcoFlow owners only have three options that I can come up with barring a different company coming out with a similar product: 1) Get the Victron Energy Orion 12/24-Volt 20 amp DC-DC Converter. This only goes up to 30V or 450W at 15A, but better than 12V for sure. 2) Get a EcoFlow Delta 2 or Delta 2 Max as the "middle man" battery and use AC charging to charge the non-EcoFlow unit. This is probably the best solution to get 800W out of a vehicle with the least amount of effort, but is not cost efficient to buy a whole other unit just for this purpose (though having a backup isn't a bad idea). You'd have to prioritize speed of charging over cost and charging efficiency as doing from DC to AC to DC has efficiency losses, but might be worth it depending on the situation. 3) I'm experimenting with a cheap DC to DC converter I got from amazon rated up to 1800W (not sure I'd push it that much, especially in the heat) and 90V. However, this a much more DIY solution as there is no case included, though I'm going to 3D print one, reliability is questionable at best and is risky. I have gotten the cheap converter to successfully take my AC200MAX 12V/30A output up to a higher voltage to charge my EB3A at its full 200W which is nice for speed (efficiency isn't the best at lower voltage though), but I haven't tried it on my vehicle battery yet to get 48V-60V. That will be my next test after learning this information. There has been one forum post of someone trying to hack the EcoFlow XT150 connector and understanding what the data pins do, but I'm not sure if they were successful and that would be another DIY/risky solution even if it did work. Though if there was a way to get the full amperage from a XT150 connector to a different universal connector, I'd be more interested in both the Alternator Charger and the EcoFlow Smart Generator.
I plugged mine tonight the the first time.. Within minutes started smelling burnt rubber, then I saw there was smoke coming from the fuse. Unplugged the things right away as I had inside my house. Now I'm afraid to use it.. I sent ecoflow an email with the situation, but what do you think might have caused this? I had it connected to this battery, LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery BCI Group 31 Lithium Battery Built-in 100A BMS..
@@arde5798 smoke from a fuse, or the smell of burning rubber which I presume was the cable sheath melting I would guess as a loose connection or a poor crimp at a terminal for the fuse. I guess for some reason one of the factory connections is causing some high resistance which causes heat.
@@arde5798 you often see similar symptoms overtime for any crimped terminal which is either become loose therefore heat generated enough to melt the shelf.
A question Can we use this + the movement of the wheels to make small 800w turbine while driving like something similar to what electric cars do while moving?
I just bought one of these Eco flow alternator chargers. Will it work on my 2024 Hyundai Santa Fe hybrid? I’m pretty sure you just would hook it up to the positive and negative of the battery terminal in the back of the vehicle? I have seen no videos on putting one of these on a hybrid vehicle.
, I’m not personally familiar with hybrid vehicles. I don’t see why it shouldn’t work. I’m sure I’ve had people in the past using other varieties of DCDC charges on hybrids.
Multiply your engine RPM by something like 5-6 to get your alternator RPM, the drive pulley by the alternator pulley. They routinely spin over 6000RPM to generate high current.
True, but that isn’t the most useful metric. Most vehicle based alternator output graphs are based on engine RPM as that’s a metric the user will see and use, opposed to alternator RPM.
Alex, I would definitely dial it down to 30amps - you do a lot of miles and already have your house batteries charging - I think 1/3 auxiliary for the total load is about right - Maybe your new van could have a water-cooled 48v alternator that is becoming popular on hybrid cars - in my motorhome, I despair at how thick some wires have to be to things like the inverter.
I said in the video. I don’t intend installing it on this van. my testing purposes I had by normal DCDC charges turned off. The new van will be 48V leisure system but I’ll be using the regular high output 12V alternator , and a 12-48v 3kW bi-directional DCDC called a Safiery Scotty.
Better design than the Bluetti version, but yes pricey for what it is. Maintenance Charge is a great feature, but why would you power a diesel heater off the starter battery? Seems better to power it with the power station.
You can’t power diesel heater doesn’t power stations and a bring up why the video. Power stations 12 V DC sockets are rated to 10A or 8A. Start a diesel heater and glow plug usually pull around 11A or more and tip the socket out
I'm trying to decide on getting the wave 2 or the delta 2 and just running a small room ac. The power bank has so much more utility and idk if the wave 2 would be enough
For a better comparison to your Victron system you need to be using an EcoFlow Delta Pro or Power Kit not that little unit. I have a Delta Pro and use it to power a Velit petrol heater, DC fridge/freezer, 2 max fans, an inversion cooktop, toaster, and assorted devices. I realize the Victron system is more capable but it’s not as wide as a gap as you depicted. The main limitation I find with the Delta pro is max 30A DC out via the Anderson power connection. Would have been nice if they would have done 50A out or more. They cost/time savings of these systems is crazy huge over a Victron system though.
@@anyalpine I’m not really trying to compare a traditional system like a Victron based system like mine. I don’t really need think they needs to be compared as they are both very differently types of systems which don’t really need to be compared and the end user use needs are going to different, and so much variation between the possibilities of each system. I think one type of system would be “better” than the other is only going to be relevant to me, someone else would have very different needs which might make the other option better. I personally prefer a large Victron system for myself and use a powerstation to compliment it. But if I was doing a micro camper or car camper then I’d probably used a 1kwh area powerstation with a charger like this for myself. There are a few powerstation like the Delta pro and a bluetti AC200max which have 30A 12v output which those are pretty rare. plus my normal use case is more of the 1kw powerstation range and the 2-3kW ones.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I just think it would help some of your viewers to mention that some power stations support this instead of making it sound like none do. The Delta Pro 3 with extra batteries can support up to 12.28kWh capacity which is way more than most van dwellers would need.
Hi just bought the 800w charger & the delta2, can the wires run from the battery(in the engine bay) to the inside sleeping area externally ie under the chassis? Cheers for video.
Don’t see why not, as long as you mount and secure the cables to the chassis so you don’t run the risk of snagging. Shouldn’t be an issue running it under the vehicle and then into it else where
Great video. I wish they would have had an option to have the cable lengths switched; long cable from alt charger to EcoFlow and short cable from starter batteries to alt charger. This would lead to better efficiency and less heat loss in the cables. Also would have been nice if they would have gone for a larger cable size so if people needed a longer run.
Normally on 12-12 DCDC’s you have the charger nearer the output battery side. So when an output in fixed like here at 800W. Your losses are from the input side and you output still remains the the best possiblecharge potential. In this case I agree with you. With the output as 48V, it would be better to shorten the input 12V cable.
Do you have it connected to CCP1 or CCP2? CCP1 is fused at 60A so it can’t support the full 800W. CCP2 is ignition controlled and turns off after a set amount of time or battery drain. This would prevent the reverse charging modes after the vehicle has been off for awhile or has a drained battery. I spoke with Ford BBAS on the phone and was instructed to connect it directly to the battery but not to bypass the BMS stud on the negative side (can also connect negative to chassis).
This might depend on what models of transit you have. My uk 2018 transit has 3 x 60A posts on the CCP. Which are just a direct 60A fuses on a bus bar ( which in itself is fused to 180A ) which are always a permanent live, I have my 3 post all paralleled. I did see on 2022 plate transit work has rented it was a completely different style of CCP which only had 2 posts. So that may be similar to what you’ve mentioned. sounds like a different between the new and older CCP. If you only have 60A live post on the new CCP then you would have to go to the battery but not bypass the BMS as you said. are you US based? I’d find it hard to speak to anyone at Ford in the uk about that sort of stuff
@@MispronouncedAdventures yep, US based but I think it’s a change with all the newer Transits. I think some are only 60A single post though. Dual post is on Transits with dual starter batteries or other configurations.
I had some issue sometimes when I needed to press the button on in the unit to take it up again. other times it’s stayed connected when using maintenance mode
I'm never on WiFi because I'm full-time in wild regions. I can connect the Ecoflow using a hotspot and 4G internet, although it's a pain and intermittent, but the Delta 2 connecting to the Ecoflow app via Bluetooth is perfect every time. My car fridge also has Bluetooth, so I'm able to monitor both the power station and fridge remotely via two apps and also change settings.
Hi You said to run the outage power at about 1/3 of your Alternator for the Eco flow charger does that take into account your b to b house battery charger running at the same time ???? Ie do you combine your eco flow b to b and your house battery b to b combined as a third ??
I don’t combine both of mine ( EcoFlow alternator charger ) and B2B as they would be more than my Alternator could handle. For testing ( this video ) I had the B2B off.
Thank you for your response just a quick question do you think it would be possible for me to run my eco flow charger on a lower rate ie not 800w and my house b to b which is a victron 30amp My alternator is a 150amp if so what would you consider a good safe watt charge to set to ?? I was working on the theory that a third of a 150 alternator is 50 amps so if my b to b is 30 amps am right in saying that I could possibly set the eco flow charger to 20 amps 240 watt and run both at the same time or am I completely wrong thanks
@@michaelbullock7747 which is why I’m glad it ships software wise set to a minimal output and not its 800W max. saves people from the themselves . As I presume you mean people are burning out alternators by running this thing at max on alternators which don’t have the capacity to handle it, opposed to people wanting upgrades?
I have a Fiat Ducato with a 230a under-seat battery with a Victron DC 2 DC unit for charging that up. I also have an Ecoflow Delta2 Max and want to fit the EcoFlow Alternator charging pack. I know for charging both I need to upgrade my 140amp Alternator to possibly 180/200amp. You mentioned an upgraded alternator but didn’t catch the name?? … I’ve looked at Lucas 180amp but the price runs out around £340. Seems expensive but is it a better option than going for a cheaper brand… Any thoughts please!!
Lots of options for upgrading alternators you can go for a standard but highest spec OEM model, generic third-party models which fit your vehicle or even some custom built high spec ones.
Great bit of kit looking to put one of these in along side existing vsr, I have a 140amp non smart alternator and the vsr is connected from starter to a 90ah lead acid. Any thoughts on how much the vsr will draw i heard roughly 20a so if i set this up for 500w drawing around 40amps is this enough of a safety buffer for the alternator? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated 👍
Does the trickle charge actually cut off at some point in your tests? I currently have the charger connected my leisure battery and have not seen it cut off. With the trickle charge it just seems to keep draining the Delta2.
Yes, it’s dials down to 0W. It’s basically using a standard 12v charge profile to safely charged the battery up and then stop. as soon as it sees a drop in voltage, then it starts again. Maybe you have some other drains on your starter battery?
As I said I’m using it connected to the factory fit leisure battery currently. It’s in the van so was easier to do! Yes there is a small compressor fridge that runs intermittently, but even so more power was drawn from the Delta2 than I expected. I have also found it’s best to ensure the leisure battery is near a full charge before charging the Delta2 on the move. I’m still impressed with the device, but think it probably works best connected directly to the starter battery.
Hi I have a 2002 iveco daily mk3 2.8 I am running an orian b2b to 2 110 amp amg batteries, question is can I run orian and ecoflow at same time or will this be to much for alternator (150 amp) Thanks Daz
Which models of Orion? 30A or 50A? Generally, you don’t want an auxiliary alternator load more than one third of the capacity. But the EcoFlow unit can be dialled back from its full 800W
Since there is no communications cable in a XT60 And it appears from the Manual it’s a fixed output of 40V @ 500W and not a charge profile like the 800W cable with its ecoFlow specific connector with communications pins. I don’t see any way it could not do it, as a XT60 is pretty “dumb” so That it should work in any power station which has a XT60 connector which can accept 40V. You won’t however have the bi-directional features.
Is this going to be upset by a smart alternator? My son has a Transit Custom with a Victron B2B and the smart alternator often fails to get the vehicle battery to a high enough voltage for long enough to switch on the charging function.
Nope, no problem being a regular or smart alternator. Your sons likely issue with the transit custom and the Victron B2B is the smart alternator is being “too smart” for it own good sometime times. Smart alternators drop down the output and there voltage to about 12v ish ( and not 14v+, which often tricks B2B charges into thinking the engine is turned off ) this happens when the vehicle believes the starter battery is fully charged and as it believes the higher output from the alternator is no longer needed to charge things, no alternator load by being the “smart” ( also called Smart-regen ) , it removes the effort the alternator puts on the engine therefore increasing engine efficiency ( mpg ) which is the whole reason for smart in the first place. My own transit does this time from time. But 99% of the time it works normally. I normally get this to stop by turning on something like the headlights and heater and heater windscreen to trick the van into thinking it needs to use the alternator again. Is your son using the transit customer connection point for his auxiliary load/ Victron or directly on the battery?
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yes, exactly that on it being too smart. Doesn't this device use similar logic to infer engine-on from engine battery voltage? It's a great idea to put some demand on it to force the alternator to do some work - never thought of that. He changed the threshold in the B2B to force it on. I didn't know about the customer connection point. Will it make a difference?
You can have them all plugged in at once. But it will probably prioritise AC as that will charge to full in around an hour. however it setting on the app you can limit the maximum charger from AC to have it stop at the centre state of charge
Do you have disabled BMS on your Ford and it works constant on 14.7 or it drops to 12.6 when it sees battery is full and you are idling or on throttle ? :) Because mine 2.2 TDCI 2016 does it like this or goes on 13.2 when position lights or lights are on :D
Nope, but I use the customer connection point which is designed for customers auxiliary loads. Occasionally once every couple months the smart alternator acts a bit too smart ( smart regen mode ) believing the starter battery fully charged and then dropped its voltage down to 12 V. I then turn on the high beam/heating mirror/fan for a few minutes which tricks the vehicle to thing it needs the alternator again.
@L4zYA55 collectively it’s 180A, then each post is off a bus bar inside the seat base with a 60A fuse each. There’s no issue grouping two or three posts together in parallel. If your vehicle has the single post opposed to 3, you can buy upgrade kit for the parts to turn it into three quite cheaply from Ford. I actually have a video about doing this upgrade on the channel.
@@MispronouncedAdventures there I found also Third party high power mode which you can trigger it by shortening pin 3 on connector under the seat and it disables SRC but I think it just raises voltage to 13.6 like turning lights ON does … which I found that for Ecoflow Alternator charger set to 13V is enough for start charging but with Voltage drop to around 13-13.1 also limits charging to around 650W instead of full 800W… it goes to 800W when you depress gas pedal since this is when BMS raises Voltage to 14.8 …. What I am thinking is connecting negative of Ecoflow under BMS sensor on battery and maybe that way Ford BMS would think that battery is never at 80% of SoC and would feed full 14.8V untill Ecoflow is pulling current ?? :)
Would you not be reducing the lifespan of the vehicle starter battery while using it for diesel heater etc. by charging it more often via ecoflow feedback, more cycles=less lifespan ? and the starter battery is a lead acid which would have 2-3 years max. of cycles only, with normal use starting and driving. Would it not be more cost effective to buy DC to DC charger and Li battery that will outlast starter batteryx4 ? 100ah of Li and good quality Lead acid starter batteries are more or less the same cost presently.
It’s shouldn’t do, Using it with maintenance mode should mean the “cycle” is not happening. As the starter battery won’t be losing any capacity to run the heater, it’s been supplied by maintenance mode. The effect would More be the diesel heater is being run by a power supply which is the maintenance mode just happens to be battery in the system. Obviously you could go down this traditional route with a leisure battery and separate DCDC charger but then that takes up a lot of additional space
I noticed in your video you say ccp ports on the seat base are OK to use but I have 3x that are only 60amp? Also do you know where would be the best place for the negative if using ccp port for positive? Thank you
@Ninja87uk I have 3 points on my CCP, they are 60Amp fuse per point. so I use them in parallel. I use the starter battery negative terminal as my many connector
Hello, I have this device, but while installing the cable I broke the fuse by tightening the terminal, I cannot find a fuse of this size AEP 12/24 V -125A- 65V DC equivalent, and ECOFLOW does not supply it. I have to send back all the cables and charger equipment even though everything is already installed in my van. Do you know which fuse could be fitted as a replacement without risk to the equipment? THANKS.
I would use a 100A midi fuse ( maybe 80A ) . I cannot see why in the first place they supply a 125A / 65V fuse model when it is on the low 12V or 24V side.
Well thank you for the advice, I will install a 12/24 V fuse of 80 or 100A 32 V DC. I will test the different scenarios and give you feedback. Thank you.
so i seen you dont even need a alternator... you just need a battery.. so can you hav a battery powered via solar connected to the 800w charger to charge a ecoflow delta and vice versa... thus taking the alternator out of the equation 🤔🤔🤔
Yes you could. Primarily is used from a vehicles alternator / starter bat but attached to the habitation battery instead if in the documentation. It might have been manually turned on although charge profile of a MPPT should make a battery go above 14v and turn the charger in automatically. It might drain if a lot before turning off automatically
Alternative: you run an inverter from the alternator, run 230V to the back of the van, and use your regular charger. I use an AC200max that will run a dieselheater without any problem. That is 485W into the powerbank, times 2 if you want to and if your alternator kan handle that. Thanks for the great info on this channel btw!
@@rick-7197 yes, you can definitely do that and that’s how I’ve been doing my other powerstations in the van. although that only works well if you already have a traditional system ( of which I do) or and a decent size DCDC charger or a direct inverter off the alternator which does effects on efficiencies converting DC up to AC and then back down to DC again. Yes your AC 200 max will run a heater but then again it has the special 12V 30 amp output socket which is rare amongst power stations
@@MispronouncedAdventures Efficiency of the charger is 521W in and 485W out (so 93%), the efficiency of the inverter is advertised as >90% at >500W (but I haven't measured yet), so around 15-20% goes to waste. DC-DC would have losses too, since powerbanks don't tend to work with 13---V internally, but higher - not to mention the gigantic cables that you'll have to run to the back with these low voltages. But basically, I am OK with 85% efficiency, as actually the whole camper van thing is not very efficient, is it :) The loading back feature of this EcoFlow is pretty cool I think. I use a separate jump starter if needed. If you add those costs up, this all-in-one EcoFlow isn't that much more expensive and certainly more elegant.
@@rick-7197 have you ever thinking using 1200W load while charging with 500W AC inverter ? Don't forget that all Ecoflow does 100% passthrough of AC when connected to it and does not add power from battery ;) This is why DC-DC is better and this Alternator charger does 2 devices in one small housing ... It is way beyond any other system and to be that small it uses GaN tech ..... www.renesas.com/us/en/applications/automotive/ev-hev-vehicles/12v48v-bi-directional-dcdc-converter-gan-hemt
@@lakorai2 those Dcdc chargers are not going charge a 48V EcoFlow powerstation or have use of the bi-directional use of it. mainly as the 48v port ( EcoFlow battery port ) has communications pins to work with external sources Sure, everything work for generic options
@@1stJohn3.9-10 no, phone is only settings and initial setup ( I don’t think it needs WiFi or phone signal for that ) . should just automatically turn on when the engine is on
This is gonna be a rival for the Clayton unit. I would still rather have a Clayton unit mind. But these accept higher solar charge and they are half the price. Also Claytons units at the moment don't have a proper app. They advertise it as having an app and have done for like 6month now, yet its still not turned up.
@@CalMUK91 I think Clayton will definitely still win in the industrial and fleet use for sure. It’s more of a permanent install. This unit definitely fills a hole which existed in the idea of a hybrid system with a unit which is portable
It's actually not easy to install at all. The cable is very stiff with a huge ferrite right next to connector and mounting system is a complete joke for something mounted in a vehicle. They simply reused PowerStream design completely. Both units are completely identical from outside. Even output cables are fully compatible. Something that works in a static house isn't applicable in a moving vehicle with constant shaking and vibrations.
I didn’t find the cable any stiffer then normal 16mm2 I used on my other DCDC charger . same for the ferrite I don’t really see why that’s an issue for you. The space is needs below the unit for cables anyway. As said in the video is uses the same chassis as the powerstream and connectors too, which just make sense if you already have the tooling made. Having opened it up insides are different and components stabilised / ( plotted? Not sure if correct term ) for a vibration rich environment. Still a simple install for me Cant speak for the mounting bracket as I didn’t use it.
@@MispronouncedAdventures So you didn't really install it then if you didn't mount it. Hooking two wires is NOT an installation you know. Also you have a big van, while some people (me included) may be install it in a normal vehicle, where space is much more constrained. Cable IS stiff thanks to horrible braiding they put on top of it for no reason at all. It would've been okay if they would do for each wire separately instead of putting it on two 6 gauge wires at once. Same for ferrite. Again, in constrained spaces it does make all the difference between fit and no fit and they had to make it even more bulky than it needs to be without any ability to move it a inch or two. Reusing same design makes sense from their perspective to save money on manufacturing. Not for consumer that wants vehicle ready device, not home device repurposed for vehicle with 0 changes to design to account for obvious differences in requirements for its installation.
A few other brands of powerstations do that, but it’s pretty rare. all the stated in this particular video if you’re using EcoFlow charger, you could just use the starter battery side and maintenance mode as your high amp 12v output
I'm halfway through the video, but I'm guessing it would be pointless and/or foolish to buy this for my little camper car Suzuki Wagon R+ with a 75a alternator 😅 thanks for the clear explanations, even for someone who gets instant brain fog when it comes to electrical stuff.
I'm new to the echo Flo w alternator charger but has anybody else noticed that the battery maintain mode does not stay on you have to keep checking it and turning it back on? What a pain that is .
Odd you had to turn it back on again, mine stayed on for days when I left it on idle. however I did feedback to EcoFlow that for it to automatically turn on after the charger feature had turned off/engineer turned off would be better.
My alternator sits at 15.1v my alternator charger detect 15.1, I set the startup at 15v and nothing, I set the start level to 13.5 it charges at 60v for 5 second then overloads, so I set it back to 15v and no charging.
@@joevirus563 you’re never gonna be able to “plug” 1000-1200W inverter into a 12v outlet. You could hardwire it in for sure. That system works and many people have done that. although there is quite a few inefficiencies converting 12V DC up to AC and then back down to DC. You also lose out on many of the other bonuses of this particular unit is by bi-directional uses, app programming and auto on & off
I say in video I don’t like using that particular phrase but says why I do As the unit has a feature which allows you do something which couldn’t yet be done with vehicles which use a power station as it’s primary electrical system. And it literally opens up a whole new set of possibilities. And it’s an easy phrase to get more views
You are correct, I’ve realised after the video came out my mistake I phrased sentence wrong . most of the conversion graphs have 6AWG as an “nearest” equivalent in metric / mm2 sizing, whilst the actual cross-section metric would be 13.3mm2 and rated less. I incorrectly stated the amp rating for the nearest equivalent in metric and not the physical conversion in metric.
CORRECTION
There’s one small part of the video I want to clear up as I didn’t convey it very well. The pre-made 5meter cable is 6AWG, as a Brit we don’t use AWG we use mm2. But using a conversion chart for this is normal. 6AWG is the equivalent of the nearest metric size 16mm2 which is rated too 110A, so the 125A fuse used is too large. However, physically 6AWG in metric is 13.3mm2 which is rated even lower and still the 125 amp fuse is too large
Fuse can be 125% load or next nearest (above) fuse size. Fuses are not made in proper increments. That’s why a wire rated at 100amp has a working range of up to 150amp. Unless you use crappy wires.
Also, USA code and EU code is not always in sync
@@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk Also gotta look at sheathing temp rating
@@zorrobyte4183 indeed. In hot engine compartments that’s a huge factor.
I've watched a few reviews of this product and yours was by far the best. Specifically, you dealt with frying the alternator by pulling too much charge from it - and how to avoid this problem. You also brought up the usefulness of battery maintenance mode, which I wasn't aware of. So thanks.👍
Glad you found my new helpful. I do my best to try and make the reviews of units a bit more technical.
As for frying Alternators, I felt it was an important part to look at as many car have way smaller alternators than my van and this is a pretty larger DCDC charger
@5:03 Ferrite Bead
A ferrite bead is a passive electronic component used to suppress high-frequency noise in electronic circuits.
Behavior and purpose...
Function: Ferrite beads filter high-frequency noise energy over a broad frequency range. They become resistive within their intended frequency range, dissipating noise energy as heat.
Construction: Typically, ferrite beads are small cylindrical or bead-shaped devices made from ferrite material-a ceramic compound containing iron oxide (Fe3O4) and other metal oxides. Their design ensures high impedance to high-frequency noise signals while allowing low-frequency signals to pass through with minimal loss.
Model: A simplified circuit model for a ferrite bead includes resistors, an inductor, and a capacitor. The key components are:
DC Resistance (R_DC): Represents the bead’s resistance at direct current (DC).
Parasitic Capacitance (C_PAR): Associated with the bead.
Bead Inductance (L_BEAD): Determines its behavior.
AC Resistance (R_AC): Reflects core losses.
Response Regions: Ferrite beads exhibit three response regions:
Inductive: Before the crossover frequency, the bead behaves inductively.
Resistive: Desired for noise reduction, this region occurs after the crossover frequency. The bead acts like a resistor, dissipating high-frequency noise as heat.
Capacitive: Beyond the resistive region, the bead becomes capacitive.
Much appreciated for the detailed explanation
This looks like Google translate. This sentence if read literally makes no sense at all. "A simplified circuit model for a ferrite bead includes resistors, an inductor, and a capacitor."
What's actually implied here is that it acts like one of these components depending on a frequency. There is no actual circuit inside, it's just a piece of ferrite shaped like toroid.
Hey man, just wanted to express sincere thanks for this video! It's the first of yours I've seen, and certainly the best on this product. Instant sub. Watched it straight through, then clicked on a video of you getting stopped by Russian guards on a hike. Looking forward to more :P
Glad you liked it! I do my best to make thorough videos what looking at things. Enjoy the rest of my videos!
I am surprised. Great, great job, mate .
I have watched many videos reviewing this charger, but I have never seen something like this.
this a fulllll review and literally everything I need to know. thanks alot you deserve more than like
Thank you! I’m glad you found my video useful for it! I tried to cover most things I could about it
Great information and well explained.
On a note I tend to watch videos at 1 1/2 times speed but not with yours as it’s not necessary.
Looking forward to your 4x4 van series 👍. Cheers Richie.
I do have to my admit, I do talk quite fast at times!
@@MispronouncedAdventures that suits me and no waffle 👍
I love the video I'll have to watch it several times due to the fact I'm new to this kind of stuff the only thing I would suggest for newbies is possibly you slow down talking it's sometimes hard to follow but after watching it several times I understand more and more each time thanks for doing the video
Apologies, I do happen to speak quite fast a lot
Love to see this hooked up to the house batteries and not the eco flow. Thanks for the videos
What do you mean? Like a standard DCDC charger?
@@MispronouncedAdventures yes sir. I’d be curious how it measures up to you Victron.
There are some days I wish I had an auxiliary dc/dc charger to put in our second starter battery. It may overwhelm the alternator though. Thanks for the vids
I think that it’s quite hard to make it comparison. Because a Victron DCDC charger is for charging a standard leisure battery whilst this is specifically for EcoFlow power station. so neither can do each other’s jobs.
This was great. Thanks for going to all the trouble of making your in depth review.
Thank you, glad you found it helpful
I'm a security dog handler and i work nights / stay away in rural settings for the most part, i discovered your channel because i bought a mk 8 Transit, love the adventures! All of your early build stuff was super useful to me but the in depth electrical stuff is frankly beyond me so i went with 400w of solar and the Delta max 2000wh. It's honestly ridiculous how good these are for people with no eletrical knowledge to get started and be comfortable, just a shame they dont run diesel heaters! I'm thinking a combination of this and a suitcase generator would keep me afloat "in the field" whatever the time of year. If that had an automatic starter maintenance mode for the diesel heater / fridge that would be amazing, hopefully they add that in the future, i'd buy it today if that was a feature.
Why wouldn’t it run a diesel heater?
@TobyCostaRica None of the powerpacks do that I'm aware of. The start up load it's too high for the 12v outlet and they trip out, it could easily run it if it was already running but that's not much help.
@@LukeK9 My friends run their DIY with tiny power packs. 256-500wh Jackery packs.
@@LukeK9 a quick search of briefcase style diesel heater videos show many connected to small Jackery/Ecoflow units
@TobyCostaRica all of them have 10 amp 12v sockets which isn't enough to run any of the diesel heaters I have seen on start up. If you can get it to work for you then that's great but I know for a fact it tripped mine out, which is a 10 amp 12v socket. The same as the tech specs for the packs you mentioned.
Hey Great Video! Would you be able to explain the difference between the reverse charging and battery maintenance feature. Seems like its essentially the same thing no? Wouldn't the reverse charging mode allow you run a diesel heater of the starter battery and the reverse charging would keep the starter battery topped up?
They do the same thing. Reverse charging seems to be the high output charging current. Good for charging a starter battery if it was flat.
Maintenance mode seems more like a low trickle to keep the starter battery topped up/preventing it from becoming flat
The term you were looking for is ferrite bead for filtering noise on the cable.
@@VelvetHippo-wp6cf much appreciated! I was reasonably confident in its principle but not its name
It’s not a collaboration, it’s a sponsorship. There is a difference
I’d disagree in the RUclips context. Whilst they are different things. Terms used for RUclips are “collaboration” as they are one-off / single contracts and named as such in contract.
Sponsorship are long term contracts with brands not specific to any one video.
Whilst ive worked with EcoFlow many times they are only one off contracts per videos.
@@MispronouncedAdventures do you get compensation or free products? That’s a sponsorship.
@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk I get paid for them and the products.
still in the context of RUclips. sponsorship is not the used term, collaborations is. Collab, sponsorship, partnership, in the terms of RUclips they are just rightly or wrongly it’s interchangeable terms often.
I literally have hundreds of emails wanting to collaborate and collaboration from companies, little sponsorship and partnership.
It’s the terminology used for RUclips single term contract are normally called collaboration predominantly. Whilst the actual definition maybe be more correct toward “sponsorship”.
Nobody has to watch if they don’t want to! It was stated multiple times at the start that this was a collaboration, so it’s very clear. In my opinion as a viewer, sponsorship would imply that all videos have to be branded.
@@CaliLeaks it’s always on a per video basis as far a viewers are concerned.
Collaborations are amongst equals. Sponsorship is a different transaction.
Two RUclipsrs can have a collaboration. Perhaps it’s a loophole in YT policy. But if one gets paid to do a service, there is no colab.
Then again, perhaps my understanding of the English language is not up to the task.
But a corporate / creator arrangement is always one sided contract work.
Nice thermals readings on the unit. I’m considering doing this install under a seat in my truck which is right where a foot AC vent is and should keep the unit nicely cool while driving
I’d agree, heat wise it’s not much at all,
Helpful video, thanks.
I am picking up a VW Transporter (with a 140 smart alternator) on Monday. What setting would you suggest is safe to use for my alternator?
@@Mark.Woodyatt a good rule of thumb for alternators is an auxiliary load shouldn’t be more than one third of the alternator’s capacity. A third of 140A is 46A. So around 600W it should be happy. It’s only a conservative rule, however so 800W might be fine. But might get a little on the warmer side if idling on a hot day
@MispronouncedAdventures that's great news, I'll dial it down to 600, that's still pretty good & I can crank it up to 800 when travelling not idle. 👌
Cheers fella.
@@MispronouncedAdventures oh sorry, I see you've already answered this question. Thanks!
Great video thanks. Why not use the charging mode rather than the maintenance mode for running the 12v accessories?
Thanks for the video. Where did you get the OBD thingy on your dash from?
It’s a Konnwei KW206. you can get them on eBay or Amazon
@@MispronouncedAdventures
Thanks!
Great video ! What did you do when you got the car battery under voltage error to get it to work ?
I normally only got that when the engine was off. When away when the engine was on
Hello there. Thanks for the great video. I just purchased the EF alternator charger to use on my 2017 Subaru Forester. I know almost absolutely nothing about power except what you've just taught me in this video, lol. According to a google search AI says my alternator should be 130 amps (not sure how to tell if this is accurate) - you mentioned scaling it back for smaller alternators. Seems mine is a bit in the middle/on the lower side. You have any recommendations for how many watts I should set this to??? Any info is super helpful, thanks so much! Loving your videos btw.
oh, sorry. I see you did already answer this below. Sorry, didn't see that one before. So looks like 1/3 of 130 - around 43 amps (and a car battery is 12v?) so 43amps x 12v = I should probably run it around 400 watts or so, to be safe? Just double checking that I understand. Thanks so much!!!
No problem at all one of the easier ways to figure out the alternator in a vehicle is to turn the light on on your phone. Send it to record and then shove it down the back of the alternator to see if you can film the sticker on the back of it that’s usually the easiest way to figure out!
As for settings you are correct starter batteries are “12v” but the charge voltage of the alternator output will probably be something around 14.6V. So you could do 43A x 14.6v.
I’d say probably around 550-600W would be fine. It is also a more conservative rule of thumb to be extra safe the 1/3 capacity. Some people do use half a capacity but personally I think that’ll be too much idle.
@@MispronouncedAdventures priceless information, thank you very much!!!
Absolutely brilliant review and set up video thanks - I am yet to buy a Portable power station for my Motorhome as I am waiting to see what specs I will need as I need a CPAP machine.
I currently use a Honda generator to top up the batteries.
The Ecoflow Delta Max 2 M Pro and Bluetti AC200L are on my wanted list and possibly changing the two130ah Leisure AGM Batteries to Lithium and adding solar and a B2B or one of these Ecoflow chargers.
Can the two systems run side by side ? or would I need to upgrade my Alternator (120amps) Fiat 2.8 JTD 2002 aircon spec as well due to the extra load?
Also what solar panels do you recommend thanks.
Alternator will probably needs to be upgraded to a higher output models to deal with EcoFlow charger, along with a B2B and air con
Basically these "alternator chargers" make your vehicle's alternator power into an inverter generator. The inverter generator technology has been around for a bit, and that was easier for me to accept for some reason when it first came out. Maybe because "inverter generator" is a more applicable description. Very cool, if spendy. I really like the battery tender feature to your 12 volt lead acid starter battery so there is not only no fear of running down your starter battery, but it is actually getting stroked.
A bit different from inverter generator technology as that’s DC to AC.
Whilst alternator charges like this are more using DC to DC technology.
DCDC technology has also been around for awhile but usually it doesn’t have such a slick designed for a specific product line. And package into unit which does multiple different things.
Nice review. The only question I have. Can it be used in automatic mode with charging the car battery when the voltage drops low? And automatically charge itself when the engine is running? Or I need to switch it manually?
At this moment in time it can only automatically turn on to charge the power station when the engine is running. It has to be at the moment manually turned on to charge the starter battery from the power station which is a shame. I think it would be a great feature if it could maybe be a future software update
@ thank you for the fast reply. It’s very strange that it can’t. So if I put it manually, can it be done automatically? For example I have a solar panel plugged in to Delta2 and it is connected to the cars battery through this device. Can I leave the car at parking for several weeks and be sure, the vehicles battery will be never discharged?
Great backup system for anyone traveling to more remote areas or as you say those that dont have an extensive system in their vehicle. Once the cost gets closer to a full "simple" system, can see this being a route more take sue to the simple install
For my use, I like it that it could be an an excellent back up system. For a main system error.
Whilst using as the primary is definitely possible, it would be significantly more expensive potentially than a traditional system ( versus the performance ) although portability would be added feature
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yep it’s a great way to have additional security for a trip where having a way to heat / cook or run your fridge while you repair or wait for parts. Just a little cost prohibiting atm, but as technology advances the cost will likely drop
@Rich-n-Cooper yep definitely agree like normal I don’t say something is better than something else. Just two different ways of doing things.
Nice job of explaining how it works thanks ✌️
Thank you
Awesome idea regarding running a diesel heater from the vehicle battery whilst then maintaining it from the Ecoflow, hadn't thought of that.
Have a D2M which can service my needs for about 5 days off grid without topping up. Now I've installed the alternator charger I didn't really want to run a separate battery just for the diesel heater but this would work perfectly.
It’s definitely a new opening for running a heater on systems using a powerstation at the core. I’ve feedback to ecoflow directly with my collaboration contacts ( they do often ask for feedback ) regarding battery maintenance mode automatically turning on when the engine is off being a great potential feature to support this type of use. ( opposed to the manual turn on it currently is )
Great video, i'm guessing this would work with an Anker solix via the xt60 cable at 500w
I don’t see why not, and I thought the same. If you can get the EcoFlow XT60 cable for it. I’m the 500W mode from reaching the manual it’s a fixed 40V output ( not a 48 V charge profile like the normal cable ). so as long as the power station XT60 socket can accept 40v it should be, also check the max amps of the powerstation socket as well
Could this be fitted even if you have a BTB already fitted to the leisure battery?Could fitting both cause damage to the alternator do you think?Really enjoyed the video,thank you.
Very much depends on the size of the Alternator. it’s possible but 800W is already a large load for normal sized Alternators
Great review, best I’ve seen. I was quite concerned by how hot the cable and unit felt but maybe it is normal ?
Just Warm isn’t a safety problem. It’s does look bright on the thermal camera but thermal cameras help show contrast.
Very interesting. My question is? It says that the charging time is 4.6 hours. Does that mean a day? Or in one continuous drive?
They would be the Charger on because the engine is running. That’s also on its max setting.
You can charge the Wave 2 battery. I did it, the connector does fit despite the wire points down. It also required a firmware update.
I had done all the firmware updates I could do at the time . some of my other Brit content creators had the issue of the wave not charging? Where firmware versions did you have and where are you based?
Can it be connected to the vans leisure battery rather than the vehicles starter battery? My leisure battery is charged when the engine is running. Great video
Yes. Whilst I haven’t tested that, it also refers in the manual it can be connected to a “RV battery”. Which I assume is meaning a habitation / leisure battery.
I assume if you were charging the leisure battery ( via solar, hook up or DCDC from the engines ) and it reached over 13 or 14 V ( EcoFlow turn on voltage ) because it was becoming fully charged it would automatically turn on the EcoFlow charger to charge the power station or the opposite of reverse charging the leisure battery from power station. Whilst I don’t quite know how the automated features would work, you could definitely turn aspects of it on manually via the app.
@@MispronouncedAdventures thank you very much
Awesome review...You do a great job of explaining. I will be watching alot more reviews thanks
Glad you enjoyed my review
Hope I can still run an amp and couple 12’s
Not really sure what you are trying to say?
@@MispronouncedAdventures because of the stress on the electrical system running the eco flow alternator and a 2 to 3 thousand watt amplifier
I’m liking this!👍🏼
I originally ran a 4m long 35mm to feed 2x 12/12/30’s but now the Orion xs50 is out I’m going for that instead.
I’ve planned to get an Ecoflow unit as a backup so this would be a great solution to fast charge on the move!!
So let’s say I take the 35mm to a 2 way fuse box, then a 16mm to the xs50 and this ..run 0.5m for each from fuse to unit.
That’s about 1500w apx draw /125A inc losses.. at 12.8v and both units charging at full power.
Slightly over the 35mm volt drop recommended but not much.
The 35mm is run under the van in conduit btw.
I’m sure I saw really quick in the app you could limit the output from 800w using a slider like for the delta 2?
I know you said it starts up at 100w ..if so that would be great to be able to limit when needed to say 500w and then charge at full when I’ve switched the xs50 off/main battery full or even on tick over for a bit.
Im definitely interested! Nice review..sorry for the long comment, I geek out with this stuff like you 😆
Yes you can limit the output of the alternator charger to well below 800 W which is great for the systems already having DCDC charges in.
35mm2 @ 4 meters should be well within the maximum of the cable. There might be a slight amount of voltage drop was the correct fusing it will be safe.
Clever gadget and will definitely give you more flexibility.
A quick question, what’s the phone holder that you use with the short handle?
Cheers
This phone holder is a “ARNARKOK FWL-02” it’s on my Amazon list. I replaced the original one the thermal camera came with and the handle itself is the handle the thermal camera comes with
@@MispronouncedAdventures cheers Alex
Thank You man. I’ve learned so many things with this video. I’m subscribing
Thank you I’m glad you found the video helpful
This is really nice for a simple plug in solution that the ecoflow can control. You can use a much cheaper DC:DC charger or simple boost converter. Select suitable wattage. If you want reverse boost feature, use Anderson connectors for input and output and to boost you reverse them.
I’d says there is different here between a 12-48 DCDC converter/ boost converter / buck boost like you have mentioned. They are definitely cheaper, but coming a converter to this isn’t the best comparison.
Converters like you said are normally fixed voltage output, which is great as a power supply but not the best option for charging a battery / cells directly like this unit does
DCDC chargers like this have a charge profile, this case specifically for charger profile 48V lifepo4 chemistry. Which is why the output is a 40-60V range and the reverse charging is again a 12V ( or 24V ) charger profile for a start battery.
@@MispronouncedAdventures DCDC converter can generate higher voltage that can then be connected to an EcoFlow solar input. The EcoFlow MPPT itself takes care of the charge profile to charge itself.
@Steve-ph4ec if you use the XT60 connector version of the EcoFlow to convert it it is exactly that. Fixed 40V output into the MPPT to charge. It’s just less powerful than the normal way as maybe power stations limited the MPPT xt60 to 10A a lot ( some are higher )
@@MispronouncedAdventures I was referring to using a different device, a dc-dc step up converter that connects to the XT60. For example the Daygreen 12 to 48 v at 10 A for $70 Amazon ASIN B07KQTLW77 that gets you 480W. Or perhaps more reliable with cooling fan, the Victron Energy Orion 12/24-Volt 20 amp which can actually output up to around 30V to get you 300W since as you say the EcoFlow XT60 often limits to 10A. So yes, less that the 800W EcoFlow unit but if you are driving long enough distance you may have enough time before your next stop to fully recharge.
@Steve-ph4ec oh sorry I understand yeah that is a system people have using a well it works for just charging a little bit less flexibility on programming but definitely works
whats happened to the end of your winter trip? are you finishing it or just leaving it there?
2 more episodes to come in that one. one should be next week. I’m away leading a trip in the Indian Himalaya at the moment so I’ve set up when I’ve got finished to come out while I’m way. In this case something paid collaborations have fixed release dates as well
Great video as always. I currently have a VW T5.1 with a split charger charging my Leisure Battery. Will this still work OK or will my alternator die under too much load
It would very much depend on the capacity of your alternator. If you had a smaller alternator, you could scale back the 800 W to a lower amount.
I have a T3 Syncro van😊 it currently has a 65 amp alternator. What setting would you recommend? I could upgrade to a 90 amp alternator? What setting would then be possible?
Just googled it and it seems a 60 amp alternator can output about 780 W so setting the alternator charger up to receive about 400 W should be fine. I would think!
Excellent review but I can't see a use for me, all options already covered. I would be interested in the obd engine monitor. Apologies if already covered, can't find it in your history.
It’s definitely an item which many with the existing traditional system would not need at all. But opens and options for others.
OBD2 is a Konnwei KW206, a great bit of kit
Hi good review have you tested it's charging capacity whilst on the move?Ive had one for a few months now. Charging a Delta Max from 2016 sprinter. It's dialed down to 500W and battery starting voltage 13.5V but it cuts out whilst driving. Be interesting to know your thoughts.
That’s sounds like Smart Regen with your sprinter smart alternator. Smart alternators can drop the voltage and output when driving at they think the starter battery is fully charged.
Change the voltage input to not cut out unless it’s at 12v or lower
Thanks. Safe travels. All the best. 👍🚐😎
Will do! And Much appreciated for watching!
Great video, I didn't realise this existed and it's just what I needed to charge my Ecoflow Delta Max. Just followed your link to Amazon to order one but your discount code doesn't work. Is it correct?
Glad you found the video you saw just checked into what you said. I think reading the information I was sent. the 10% code is for the EcoFlow sale in general, but that excludes the newly launched alternator charger I’m afraid
@@MispronouncedAdventures OK, thanks for checking. I've ordered one anyway. 👍
Whats the difference between using an alternator charger and using a car inverter, maybe 1000 watt, and just plugging into that to recharge? Thwy both need to be wired in and pricing doesnt seem too different?? Thanks.
@@stevenmaniscalco1439 end goal would be the same sort of.
An inverter looses some efficiency over converting 12V DC up to AC ( 230v or 110v ) and then the power station converting AC back down to 48V DC.
the EcoFlow charger is DC to DC ( 12-48v ) so less conversion and less losses.
Additionally, for this and inverter would only be one way. The EcoFlow charger is bi-directional. so could charge your flat starter battery if needed.
Additionally, the EcoFlow charger would turn itself on and off automatically with the engine.
I guess whilst the end goals could be somewhat similar one as an inverter where you could power any AC item, charging a power station would lose efficiency.
The EcoFlow charger is more than just a charger and it’s directly integrated into the power station for charging.
I'm a trucker. I could buy a ~1500w pure sine wave inverter to be installed in my truck to run a hot plate (850w), TV, small electronics/chargers, and my gaming laptop (265w), but I would rather buy something like an Ecoflow Delta 2. Could you please explain if that would work for my needs?
To be fair, if you have a traditional electric system in your truck that might work well for you and be all you need
What you would gain from a Delta 2 is portability and simplicity of a single unit
Love your tech stuff!
Thank you
Seems those smaller XT cable options are not available yet? I guess you could modify the current cable with any connector, XT90 for Bluetti AC200L. Thanks for heads up.
I don’t think you could modify the current cable to be any connector as the current 800 W version is a 48V charge profile output and cable itself contains positive, negative and communications pins which speak to the power station itself. The 500W XT60 cable appears to be a on thr spec sheet just to be a fixed 40 V output, which is fine because that’s going into other power stations which except up to 40V in there XT60 port, which usually is a power stations MPPT solar controller at the higher voltages. The MPPT itself would be sorting the charge profile for charging the power station native voltage.
@MispronouncedAdventures Thank you for showing the specifications page in the manual. Very helpful.
@dhdoctors I just got off the phone with technical support before watching this video as I had the same question you have. They confirmed it is in development, they are prepping for manufacturing and it is currently in testing. The estimate is that this will be more information in a few months, though they could not confirm this timeline for sure. I asked if this will be a separate cable/adapter or if it will be an entirely separate kit. It sounded like from their response that this will be an entirely separate unit/kit due to the wattage difference and a simple adapter cable will not be available. This is most likely due to the wattage/voltage limit that @MispronouncedAdventures mentioned as well as the lack of communication to other units.
It's disappointing the that XT60 version will be limited to 40V/500W as I have a Bluetti AC200MAX and B300 battery that both could accept the higher 48V-60V. So non-EcoFlow owners only have three options that I can come up with barring a different company coming out with a similar product:
1) Get the Victron Energy Orion 12/24-Volt 20 amp DC-DC Converter. This only goes up to 30V or 450W at 15A, but better than 12V for sure.
2) Get a EcoFlow Delta 2 or Delta 2 Max as the "middle man" battery and use AC charging to charge the non-EcoFlow unit. This is probably the best solution to get 800W out of a vehicle with the least amount of effort, but is not cost efficient to buy a whole other unit just for this purpose (though having a backup isn't a bad idea). You'd have to prioritize speed of charging over cost and charging efficiency as doing from DC to AC to DC has efficiency losses, but might be worth it depending on the situation.
3) I'm experimenting with a cheap DC to DC converter I got from amazon rated up to 1800W (not sure I'd push it that much, especially in the heat) and 90V. However, this a much more DIY solution as there is no case included, though I'm going to 3D print one, reliability is questionable at best and is risky. I have gotten the cheap converter to successfully take my AC200MAX 12V/30A output up to a higher voltage to charge my EB3A at its full 200W which is nice for speed (efficiency isn't the best at lower voltage though), but I haven't tried it on my vehicle battery yet to get 48V-60V. That will be my next test after learning this information.
There has been one forum post of someone trying to hack the EcoFlow XT150 connector and understanding what the data pins do, but I'm not sure if they were successful and that would be another DIY/risky solution even if it did work. Though if there was a way to get the full amperage from a XT150 connector to a different universal connector, I'd be more interested in both the Alternator Charger and the EcoFlow Smart Generator.
Xt60 easily handles 800 watt @14v. A higher battery voltage just takes it easier on the cable.
I plugged mine tonight the the first time.. Within minutes started smelling burnt rubber, then I saw there was smoke coming from the fuse. Unplugged the things right away as I had inside my house. Now I'm afraid to use it.. I sent ecoflow an email with the situation, but what do you think might have caused this? I had it connected to this battery, LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery BCI Group 31 Lithium Battery Built-in 100A BMS..
@@arde5798 smoke from a fuse, or the smell of burning rubber which I presume was the cable sheath melting I would guess as a loose connection or a poor crimp at a terminal for the fuse. I guess for some reason one of the factory connections is causing some high resistance which causes heat.
@@arde5798 you often see similar symptoms overtime for any crimped terminal which is either become loose therefore heat generated enough to melt the shelf.
A question
Can we use this + the movement of the wheels to make small 800w turbine while driving like something similar to what electric cars do while moving?
I just bought one of these Eco flow alternator chargers. Will it work on my 2024 Hyundai Santa Fe hybrid? I’m pretty sure you just would hook it up to the positive and negative of the battery terminal in the back of the vehicle? I have seen no videos on putting one of these on a hybrid vehicle.
, I’m not personally familiar with hybrid vehicles. I don’t see why it shouldn’t work. I’m sure I’ve had people in the past using other varieties of DCDC charges on hybrids.
Multiply your engine RPM by something like 5-6 to get your alternator RPM, the drive pulley by the alternator pulley. They routinely spin over 6000RPM to generate high current.
True, but that isn’t the most useful metric.
Most vehicle based alternator output graphs are based on engine RPM as that’s a metric the user will see and use, opposed to alternator RPM.
Alex, I would definitely dial it down to 30amps - you do a lot of miles and already have your house batteries charging - I think 1/3 auxiliary for the total load is about right - Maybe your new van could have a water-cooled 48v alternator that is becoming popular on hybrid cars - in my motorhome, I despair at how thick some wires have to be to things like the inverter.
I said in the video. I don’t intend installing it on this van. my testing purposes I had by normal DCDC charges turned off.
The new van will be 48V leisure system but I’ll be using the regular high output 12V alternator , and a 12-48v 3kW bi-directional DCDC called a Safiery Scotty.
Better design than the Bluetti version, but yes pricey for what it is. Maintenance Charge is a great feature, but why would you power a diesel heater off the starter battery? Seems better to power it with the power station.
You can’t power diesel heater doesn’t power stations and a bring up why the video.
Power stations 12 V DC sockets are rated to 10A or 8A. Start a diesel heater and glow plug usually pull around 11A or more and tip the socket out
You need to use their Delta Pro power station that’s designed for this.
I'm trying to decide on getting the wave 2 or the delta 2 and just running a small room ac. The power bank has so much more utility and idk if the wave 2 would be enough
Wave 2 is probably smaller than most room ac.
For a better comparison to your Victron system you need to be using an EcoFlow Delta Pro or Power Kit not that little unit. I have a Delta Pro and use it to power a Velit petrol heater, DC fridge/freezer, 2 max fans, an inversion cooktop, toaster, and assorted devices. I realize the Victron system is more capable but it’s not as wide as a gap as you depicted. The main limitation I find with the Delta pro is max 30A DC out via the Anderson power connection. Would have been nice if they would have done 50A out or more. They cost/time savings of these systems is crazy huge over a Victron system though.
@@anyalpine I’m not really trying to compare a traditional system like a Victron based system like mine. I don’t really need think they needs to be compared as they are both very differently types of systems which don’t really need to be compared and the end user use needs are going to different, and so much variation between the possibilities of each system. I think one type of system would be “better” than the other is only going to be relevant to me, someone else would have very different needs which might make the other option better.
I personally prefer a large Victron system for myself and use a powerstation to compliment it. But if I was doing a micro camper or car camper then I’d probably used a 1kwh area powerstation with a charger like this for myself.
There are a few powerstation like the Delta pro and a bluetti AC200max which have 30A 12v output which those are pretty rare. plus my normal use case is more of the 1kw powerstation range and the 2-3kW ones.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I just think it would help some of your viewers to mention that some power stations support this instead of making it sound like none do. The Delta Pro 3 with extra batteries can support up to 12.28kWh capacity which is way more than most van dwellers would need.
Hi just bought the 800w charger & the delta2, can the wires run from the battery(in the engine bay) to the inside sleeping area externally ie under the chassis? Cheers for video.
Don’t see why not, as long as you mount and secure the cables to the chassis so you don’t run the risk of snagging. Shouldn’t be an issue running it under the vehicle and then into it else where
Great video. I wish they would have had an option to have the cable lengths switched; long cable from alt charger to EcoFlow and short cable from starter batteries to alt charger. This would lead to better efficiency and less heat loss in the cables. Also would have been nice if they would have gone for a larger cable size so if people needed a longer run.
Normally on 12-12 DCDC’s you have the charger nearer the output battery side. So when an output in fixed like here at 800W. Your losses are from the input side and you output still remains the the best possiblecharge potential.
In this case I agree with you. With the output as 48V, it would be better to shorten the input 12V cable.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I had originally hoped to mount under the passenger seat but of well.
Any idea if this system would work in a Peugeout Rifter Diesel?
Don’t see why not. most of Ecoflow marketing is based on car use and not van use like mine. But the general electrics are same
Great video Alex, WANT ONE! 😊
Cheers guys, thanks for watching
great detail, thanks
Thank you for watching
Do you have it connected to CCP1 or CCP2? CCP1 is fused at 60A so it can’t support the full 800W. CCP2 is ignition controlled and turns off after a set amount of time or battery drain. This would prevent the reverse charging modes after the vehicle has been off for awhile or has a drained battery. I spoke with Ford BBAS on the phone and was instructed to connect it directly to the battery but not to bypass the BMS stud on the negative side (can also connect negative to chassis).
This might depend on what models of transit you have. My uk 2018 transit has 3 x 60A posts on the CCP. Which are just a direct 60A fuses on a bus bar ( which in itself is fused to 180A ) which are always a permanent live, I have my 3 post all paralleled.
I did see on 2022 plate transit work has rented it was a completely different style of CCP which only had 2 posts. So that may be similar to what you’ve mentioned.
sounds like a different between the new and older CCP. If you only have 60A live post on the new CCP then you would have to go to the battery but not bypass the BMS as you said.
are you US based? I’d find it hard to speak to anyone at Ford in the uk about that sort of stuff
@@MispronouncedAdventures yep, US based but I think it’s a change with all the newer Transits. I think some are only 60A single post though. Dual post is on Transits with dual starter batteries or other configurations.
Good to hear, hard to find information. its nice feature to add an ignition live pole! Saves hunting out the awkward ignition live wire
Do you have a problem keeping connected to the app when you are not on wfi?
I had some issue sometimes when I needed to press the button on in the unit to take it up again. other times it’s stayed connected when using maintenance mode
Not sure if it a software issue of a setting issue
I'm never on WiFi because I'm full-time in wild regions. I can connect the Ecoflow using a hotspot and 4G internet, although it's a pain and intermittent, but the Delta 2 connecting to the Ecoflow app via Bluetooth is perfect every time. My car fridge also has Bluetooth, so I'm able to monitor both the power station and fridge remotely via two apps and also change settings.
Great video thank you. Will buy
Glad you found it helpful
Hi You said to run the outage power at about 1/3 of your Alternator for the Eco flow charger does that take into account your b to b house battery charger running at the same time ????
Ie do you combine your eco flow b to b and your house battery b to b combined as a third ??
I don’t combine both of mine ( EcoFlow alternator charger ) and B2B as they would be more than my Alternator could handle. For testing ( this video ) I had the B2B off.
Thank you for your response just a quick question do you think it would be possible for me to run my eco flow charger on a lower rate ie not 800w and my house b to b which is a victron 30amp
My alternator is a 150amp if so what would you consider a good safe watt charge to set to ??
I was working on the theory that a third of a 150 alternator is 50 amps so if my b to b is 30 amps am right in saying that I could possibly set the eco flow charger to 20 amps 240 watt and run both at the same time or am I completely wrong thanks
As a 35 year automobile technician, I can forecast a surge in business for alternator replacement.
@@michaelbullock7747 which is why I’m glad it ships software wise set to a minimal output and not its 800W max. saves people from the themselves .
As I presume you mean people are burning out alternators by running this thing at max on alternators which don’t have the capacity to handle it, opposed to people wanting upgrades?
As usual, very thorough. Will you have it installed in the new van?
I’m definitely considering it. it won’t be for my primary electrical system. It’s definitely got its uses.
I have a Fiat Ducato with a 230a under-seat battery with a Victron DC 2 DC unit for charging that up. I also have an Ecoflow Delta2 Max and want to fit the EcoFlow Alternator charging pack. I know for charging both I need to upgrade my 140amp Alternator to possibly 180/200amp. You mentioned an upgraded alternator but didn’t catch the name?? … I’ve looked at Lucas 180amp but the price runs out around £340. Seems expensive but is it a better option than going for a cheaper brand… Any thoughts please!!
Lots of options for upgrading alternators you can go for a standard but highest spec OEM model, generic third-party models which fit your vehicle or even some custom built high spec ones.
We called those RF Suppressors and sometimes a 'choke coil'.
where is your link to the infrared cam?
Odd it was missing from the description it should’ve been there. I’ve added it now.
Great bit of kit looking to put one of these in along side existing vsr, I have a 140amp non smart alternator and the vsr is connected from starter to a 90ah lead acid. Any thoughts on how much the vsr will draw i heard roughly 20a so if i set this up for 500w drawing around 40amps is this enough of a safety buffer for the alternator? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated 👍
Can that be put in a marine application to help charge a large lithium bank
Not really, this is specifically for charging a EcoFlow power bank.
What are you trying to charge?
Does the trickle charge actually cut off at some point in your tests? I currently have the charger connected my leisure battery and have not seen it cut off. With the trickle charge it just seems to keep draining the Delta2.
Yes, it’s dials down to 0W. It’s basically using a standard 12v charge profile to safely charged the battery up and then stop. as soon as it sees a drop in voltage, then it starts again.
Maybe you have some other drains on your starter battery?
As I said I’m using it connected to the factory fit leisure battery currently. It’s in the van so was easier to do! Yes there is a small compressor fridge that runs intermittently, but even so more power was drawn from the Delta2 than I expected. I have also found it’s best to ensure the leisure battery is near a full charge before charging the Delta2 on the move.
I’m still impressed with the device, but think it probably works best connected directly to the starter battery.
Hi
I have a 2002 iveco daily mk3 2.8 I am running an orian b2b to 2 110 amp amg batteries, question is can I run orian and ecoflow at same time or will this be to much for alternator (150 amp)
Thanks Daz
Which models of Orion? 30A or 50A? Generally, you don’t want an auxiliary alternator load more than one third of the capacity. But the EcoFlow unit can be dialled back from its full 800W
@@MispronouncedAdventures 30
@daz1665 it would I would just scale back the EcoFlow to a lot less than 800 W
@@MispronouncedAdventures
Thanks I was thinking about 300
Like the tec videos go over my head sometimes but hopefully 😁😁
Hi Any update on this charging other brands through xt 60 ?
Since there is no communications cable in a XT60 And it appears from the Manual it’s a fixed output of 40V @ 500W and not a charge profile like the 800W cable with its ecoFlow specific connector with communications pins.
I don’t see any way it could not do it, as a XT60 is pretty “dumb” so That it should work in any power station which has a XT60 connector which can accept 40V. You won’t however have the bi-directional features.
@@MispronouncedAdventures brilliant thanks for the reply just one more question how do you connect the xt60 to the charger
If you have a Leisure Battery can you then connect that device to that instead of the Battery under the Bonnet ?
I haven't got a Clue on any of this
You could but you loose out of the charging off the engine parts
Is this going to be upset by a smart alternator? My son has a Transit Custom with a Victron B2B and the smart alternator often fails to get the vehicle battery to a high enough voltage for long enough to switch on the charging function.
Nope, no problem being a regular or smart alternator.
Your sons likely issue with the transit custom and the Victron B2B is the smart alternator is being “too smart” for it own good sometime times. Smart alternators drop down the output and there voltage to about 12v ish ( and not 14v+, which often tricks B2B charges into thinking the engine is turned off ) this happens when the vehicle believes the starter battery is fully charged and as it believes the higher output from the alternator is no longer needed to charge things, no alternator load by being the “smart” ( also called Smart-regen ) , it removes the effort the alternator puts on the engine therefore increasing engine efficiency ( mpg ) which is the whole reason for smart in the first place.
My own transit does this time from time. But 99% of the time it works normally. I normally get this to stop by turning on something like the headlights and heater and heater windscreen to trick the van into thinking it needs to use the alternator again.
Is your son using the transit customer connection point for his auxiliary load/ Victron or directly on the battery?
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yes, exactly that on it being too smart. Doesn't this device use similar logic to infer engine-on from engine battery voltage? It's a great idea to put some demand on it to force the alternator to do some work - never thought of that. He changed the threshold in the B2B to force it on. I didn't know about the customer connection point. Will it make a difference?
So I could charge a Delta Pro with 400W solar, 800W alternator, 120V AC, *and* cigarette lighter all at the same time?
You can have them all plugged in at once. But it will probably prioritise AC as that will charge to full in around an hour. however it setting on the app you can limit the maximum charger from AC to have it stop at the centre state of charge
Do you have disabled BMS on your Ford and it works constant on 14.7 or it drops to 12.6 when it sees battery is full and you are idling or on throttle ? :) Because mine 2.2 TDCI 2016 does it like this or goes on 13.2 when position lights or lights are on :D
Nope, but I use the customer connection point which is designed for customers auxiliary loads. Occasionally once every couple months the smart alternator acts a bit too smart ( smart regen mode ) believing the starter battery fully charged and then dropped its voltage down to 12 V. I then turn on the high beam/heating mirror/fan for a few minutes which tricks the vehicle to thing it needs the alternator again.
@@MispronouncedAdventures aren’t they limited to 60A ?
@L4zYA55 collectively it’s 180A, then each post is off a bus bar inside the seat base with a 60A fuse each. There’s no issue grouping two or three posts together in parallel.
If your vehicle has the single post opposed to 3, you can buy upgrade kit for the parts to turn it into three quite cheaply from Ford. I actually have a video about doing this upgrade on the channel.
@@MispronouncedAdventuresmany new vans in the US do a two post 60A always active and 175A ignition controlled CCP.
@@MispronouncedAdventures there I found also Third party high power mode which you can trigger it by shortening pin 3 on connector under the seat and it disables SRC but I think it just raises voltage to 13.6 like turning lights ON does … which I found that for Ecoflow Alternator charger set to 13V is enough for start charging but with Voltage drop to around 13-13.1 also limits charging to around 650W instead of full 800W… it goes to 800W when you depress gas pedal since this is when BMS raises Voltage to 14.8 …. What I am thinking is connecting negative of Ecoflow under BMS sensor on battery and maybe that way Ford BMS would think that battery is never at 80% of SoC and would feed full 14.8V untill Ecoflow is pulling current ?? :)
Sneakily throwing in news about a new van there. Will there be a taster vid? Will you be going somewhere different in it?
🙂 going to be a whole new build series, AWD transits and planning on about very cold and very hot for it
Would you not be reducing the lifespan of the vehicle starter battery while using it for diesel heater etc. by charging it more often via ecoflow feedback, more cycles=less lifespan ? and the starter battery is a lead acid which would have 2-3 years max. of cycles only, with normal use starting and driving. Would it not be more cost effective to buy DC to DC charger and Li battery that will outlast starter batteryx4 ? 100ah of Li and good quality Lead acid starter batteries are more or less the same cost presently.
It’s shouldn’t do, Using it with maintenance mode should mean the “cycle” is not happening. As the starter battery won’t be losing any capacity to run the heater, it’s been supplied by maintenance mode. The effect would More be the diesel heater is being run by a power supply which is the maintenance mode just happens to be battery in the system.
Obviously you could go down this traditional route with a leisure battery and separate DCDC charger but then that takes up a lot of additional space
Hi, do you know if ecoflow alternator charger work on ford transit custom smart alternator? Thanks
Yes, it’s designed to work with Smart Alternators. this video is film using my 2018 Ford transit MK8 which is also a smart Alternator
@MispronouncedAdventures thats great then! thanks for the quick reply.
I noticed in your video you say ccp ports on the seat base are OK to use but I have 3x that are only 60amp?
Also do you know where would be the best place for the negative if using ccp port for positive?
Thank you
@Ninja87uk I have 3 points on my CCP, they are 60Amp fuse per point. so I use them in parallel.
I use the starter battery negative terminal as my many connector
I'll do the same. Thanks again!
Hello, I have this device, but while installing the cable I broke the fuse by tightening the terminal, I cannot find a fuse of this size AEP 12/24 V -125A- 65V DC equivalent, and ECOFLOW does not supply it. I have to send back all the cables and charger equipment even though everything is already installed in my van. Do you know which fuse could be fitted as a replacement without risk to the equipment? THANKS.
I would use a 100A midi fuse ( maybe 80A ) . I cannot see why in the first place they supply a 125A / 65V fuse model when it is on the low 12V or 24V side.
Well thank you for the advice, I will install a 12/24 V fuse of 80 or 100A 32 V DC. I will test the different scenarios and give you feedback. Thank you.
Would there be any issue using this while vehicle is idle to charge power station with a 105amp alternator as opposed to solar.
You could but I wound turn the 800w output down to 500W ish. 800w load of 105ah at idle which be stressful and hot for the 105a alternator
You found something else to Pixelate. It's a good skill to master.
Mk8 transit which battery under seat fit to cheers
What do you mean?
so i seen you dont even need a alternator... you just need a battery.. so can you hav a battery powered via solar connected to the 800w charger to charge a ecoflow delta and vice versa... thus taking the alternator out of the equation 🤔🤔🤔
Yes you could. Primarily is used from a vehicles alternator / starter bat but attached to the habitation battery instead if in the documentation. It might have been manually turned on although charge profile of a MPPT should make a battery go above 14v and turn the charger in automatically. It might drain if a lot before turning off automatically
It is known as a " choke " it suppresses transient spikes .
Cheers
Alternative: you run an inverter from the alternator, run 230V to the back of the van, and use your regular charger. I use an AC200max that will run a dieselheater without any problem. That is 485W into the powerbank, times 2 if you want to and if your alternator kan handle that.
Thanks for the great info on this channel btw!
@@rick-7197 yes, you can definitely do that and that’s how I’ve been doing my other powerstations in the van. although that only works well if you already have a traditional system ( of which I do) or and a decent size DCDC charger or a direct inverter off the alternator which does effects on efficiencies converting DC up to AC and then back down to DC again.
Yes your AC 200 max will run a heater but then again it has the special 12V 30 amp output socket which is rare amongst power stations
@@MispronouncedAdventures Efficiency of the charger is 521W in and 485W out (so 93%), the efficiency of the inverter is advertised as >90% at >500W (but I haven't measured yet), so around 15-20% goes to waste. DC-DC would have losses too, since powerbanks don't tend to work with 13---V internally, but higher - not to mention the gigantic cables that you'll have to run to the back with these low voltages. But basically, I am OK with 85% efficiency, as actually the whole camper van thing is not very efficient, is it :)
The loading back feature of this EcoFlow is pretty cool I think. I use a separate jump starter if needed. If you add those costs up, this all-in-one EcoFlow isn't that much more expensive and certainly more elegant.
@@rick-7197 have you ever thinking using 1200W load while charging with 500W AC inverter ? Don't forget that all Ecoflow does 100% passthrough of AC when connected to it and does not add power from battery ;) This is why DC-DC is better and this Alternator charger does 2 devices in one small housing ... It is way beyond any other system and to be that small it uses GaN tech ..... www.renesas.com/us/en/applications/automotive/ev-hev-vehicles/12v48v-bi-directional-dcdc-converter-gan-hemt
Works but very inefficient.
Daygreen and Pecron make DC to DC chargers that are far less expensive than this Ecoflow unit.
@@lakorai2 those Dcdc chargers are not going charge a 48V EcoFlow powerstation or have use of the bi-directional use of it. mainly as the 48v port ( EcoFlow battery port ) has communications pins to work with external sources
Sure, everything work for generic options
Hurricane Helene destroyed everything and nobody had wifi/cell phone service for over a week ... so does this have to use a phone?
@@1stJohn3.9-10 no, phone is only settings and initial setup ( I don’t think it needs WiFi or phone signal for that ) . should just automatically turn on when the engine is on
This is gonna be a rival for the Clayton unit.
I would still rather have a Clayton unit mind.
But these accept higher solar charge and they are half the price.
Also Claytons units at the moment don't have a proper app. They advertise it as having an app and have done for like 6month now, yet its still not turned up.
@@CalMUK91 I think Clayton will definitely still win in the industrial and fleet use for sure. It’s more of a permanent install.
This unit definitely fills a hole which existed in the idea of a hybrid system with a unit which is portable
@@MispronouncedAdventures Yeh, I was just thinking... the clayton has a much higher 12v output without needing to rig it to your starter battery.
It's actually not easy to install at all. The cable is very stiff with a huge ferrite right next to connector and mounting system is a complete joke for something mounted in a vehicle.
They simply reused PowerStream design completely. Both units are completely identical from outside. Even output cables are fully compatible.
Something that works in a static house isn't applicable in a moving vehicle with constant shaking and vibrations.
I didn’t find the cable any stiffer then normal 16mm2 I used on my other DCDC charger . same for the ferrite I don’t really see why that’s an issue for you. The space is needs below the unit for cables anyway.
As said in the video is uses the same chassis as the powerstream and connectors too, which just make sense if you already have the tooling made. Having opened it up insides are different and components stabilised / ( plotted? Not sure if correct term ) for a vibration rich environment.
Still a simple install for me
Cant speak for the mounting bracket as I didn’t use it.
@@MispronouncedAdventures So you didn't really install it then if you didn't mount it. Hooking two wires is NOT an installation you know. Also you have a big van, while some people (me included) may be install it in a normal vehicle, where space is much more constrained.
Cable IS stiff thanks to horrible braiding they put on top of it for no reason at all. It would've been okay if they would do for each wire separately instead of putting it on two 6 gauge wires at once.
Same for ferrite. Again, in constrained spaces it does make all the difference between fit and no fit and they had to make it even more bulky than it needs to be without any ability to move it a inch or two.
Reusing same design makes sense from their perspective to save money on manufacturing. Not for consumer that wants vehicle ready device, not home device repurposed for vehicle with 0 changes to design to account for obvious differences in requirements for its installation.
Need something like this for my bluetti ac180
I wouldn’t be surprised if we see similar products coming from the other major brands over the next coming months or years
Thanks for the reply Alex, let’s hope so. Loving this year’s Arctic adventure by the way👍🏻
The only missing link is now high current 12v output
A few other brands of powerstations do that, but it’s pretty rare.
all the stated in this particular video if you’re using EcoFlow charger, you could just use the starter battery side and maintenance mode as your high amp 12v output
I'm halfway through the video, but I'm guessing it would be pointless and/or foolish to buy this for my little camper car Suzuki Wagon R+ with a 75a alternator 😅 thanks for the clear explanations, even for someone who gets instant brain fog when it comes to electrical stuff.
I have a ford transit. Where do I connect to the ccp port? The top two bolts or the bottom two bolts?
What model and year of van do you have? CCP has changed on some. I use all three bolts
I'm new to the echo Flo w alternator charger but has anybody else noticed that the battery maintain mode does not stay on you have to keep checking it and turning it back on? What a pain that is .
Odd you had to turn it back on again, mine stayed on for days when I left it on idle. however I did feedback to EcoFlow that for it to automatically turn on after the charger feature had turned off/engineer turned off would be better.
My alternator sits at 15.1v my alternator charger detect 15.1, I set the startup at 15v and nothing,
I set the start level to 13.5 it charges at 60v for 5 second then overloads, so I set it back to 15v and no charging.
Charging at 60V? That’s a very odd. Might be worth speaking to EcoFlow about that if you can’t get it working because it should be relatively simple.
Or, buy a 1000-1200w inverter, plug it in the 12v outlet of the car and charge at more than 1000w with the AC plug.
@@joevirus563 you’re never gonna be able to “plug” 1000-1200W inverter into a 12v outlet.
You could hardwire it in for sure. That system works and many people have done that. although there is quite a few inefficiencies converting 12V DC up to AC and then back down to DC.
You also lose out on many of the other bonuses of this particular unit is by bi-directional uses, app programming and auto on & off
A 800$ inefficiency… you’ll have some lost of course but at least you can use the small cheap inverter to run other things
The ole game changer routine?
I say in video I don’t like using that particular phrase but says why I do As the unit has a feature which allows you do something which couldn’t yet be done with vehicles which use a power station as it’s primary electrical system.
And it literally opens up a whole new set of possibilities.
And it’s an easy phrase to get more views
6AWG is 13.3mm2 not 16mm2 and is rated to 65 amps. That fuse size is OTT!
You are correct, I’ve realised after the video came out my mistake I phrased sentence wrong . most of the conversion graphs have 6AWG as an “nearest” equivalent in metric / mm2 sizing, whilst the actual cross-section metric would be 13.3mm2 and rated less. I incorrectly stated the amp rating for the nearest equivalent in metric and not the physical conversion in metric.
@@MispronouncedAdventures The point is the fuse is oversized which you correctly identified, you just understated it.
@@TheGalifreyI agree about the fuse size, however it also depends on the allowable voltage drop.