Your complaints about parts swappers are valid. One of my friends had an old Volvo (1995, forgot what model it was). Occasionally when it would sit for a few hours, it would crank and not start. Twice his family had it towed to the mechanic that they preferred to take it to. Each time they changed out the fuel pump. On the third time, it happened when he had it parked at my house. I got my multimeter out and found that there was no voltage going to the fuel pump. Just as a precaution I tapped the fuel pump relay a few times. Then it started getting voltage at the fuel pump, and the engine started upon cranking. Replaced the relay and that car ran fine until he sold it a year or two later (was burning a bit of oil so he decided to sell it and get a newer car since he had the means to do so). But in that case, the parts swapping mechanic got outsmarted, by a college student with a multimeter.
Excellent job. A TECHNICIAN'S DIAGNOSIS IS WORTH MORE THAN AN ENTIRE SHOP FULL OF "MECHANICS" (aka parts changers) and usually costs the customer a tiny fraction of what they would have spent on unnecessary parts and labor with the 'Mechanics' I'm currently working on a 2010 F150 4.6 triton and the customer says after taking it to 6 different 'mechanic's shops' it hasn't been fixed by them but >in his words< " it is randomly fixing ITSELF now and then " 😂😂 I'M in the process of pulling the BCM ( which is also the passenger compartment Fuse panel) and Underhood "Power distribution Center" ( the other fuse panel) out so that they can be cleaned out and re-installed because, even after 6 different shops have tried to fix the truck , both of them have so much lime-scale and green copper in them that I cannot get a stable voltage on ANY circuit in the truck... ( yet they have not been taken loose or attempted to be cleaned up ) I understood the problem when the customer first came in... I told him that he was the reason for the problem and he was furious.... until I said that he had left the passenger side window down when it had rained at least once... he said that it had been shattered but he had only replaced it after about a week of rain because he had to wait for payday.... he has taken pictures of the panels and is going to be taking them to the other shops and demanding they refund his money because they didn't even open the inside fuse panel cover OR THEY'D HAVE INSTANTLY FOUND THE PROBLEM. I am going to spray them out with some QD electronics cleaner and I guarantee that he'll be trouble-free for at least 6 months... ( he's ordered both the panels new mainly because he wants to but they're going to take about that long to arrive but I will have him on the road and reliable until then )
You have a great solid common sense approach! I was a serious technician in the Navy and the number one fault of almost all electrical was always bad connections. I completely understand your hesitant diagnosis! Great job!
Retired industrial electrician here - troubleshooting industrial machinery and troubleshooting newer cars are very similar. So are the people who work on them. You have your parts changers, and you have your actual diagnostic technicians. I'm proud to say I was the latter. When I determined what needed to be changed, I was highly confident that changing it would fix the problem, because I eliminated all other possibilities, or I could physically see the problem, or I could verify what was wrong with a meter, for example. You are obviously the type that avoids throwing parts at a problem, and that's to your credit.
A master mechanic here folks. You actually troubleshoot. As an AT I was trained in the Navy how to troubleshoot and your techniques are exactly how I was taught. I remember my final exam in AFTA (Advanced First Term Avionics - an advanced course in Avionics) consisted of about 8 different faults, but it ended up being a single module that was causing the other faults. Very similar to your experience here.
Complete honesty here, this is some of the most in depth breakdown of diagnostics I have seen on RUclips. I watch these for no reason but to become better in the industry, thank you sir for putting out some quality content. Job well done sir!
My girlfriend and I recently replaced her ECM in her 06 Cadillac CTS. I saw all your fault codes and immediately said “it’s the ECU..” after you Replaced it and it didn’t start my GF said “he didn’t do the security reset! Lol bro, you just needed us with you on that one hahah!!
This guy is more skilled than most mechanics everywhere. He doesn't change parts. He tests don't guess. What I like is he always shows you the end result fixed or not.
Step one....record codes, step 2 clear memory, Step 3 retest for failure codes. Most commonly in my experience, multiple codes = bad ecm,pcm. Good video! Check pcm connections before replacing pcm
How refreshing to watch an intelligent diagnostician go through proper troubleshooting. No parts jockeying, just time well spent with a correct conclusion. Good job and an interesting video even for this casual observer. Add me as a new subscriber.
I love your patience. A lot of guys get totally frustrated and start throwing parts at the problem.......You didn't! Plus as frustrating as the problem was you were cool, calm and methodical. Kudos to you!
Wow you are a really good mechanic Electrical issues are the scariest ones to deal with inhsd a 93 f 150 that had starting issues rough idle I could smell a dead fish smell luckly I found a utube video talking about my problem it had burnt component in the computer Mine looked exactly like the one in the video solved my problem Took forever to come across that video a mechanic had looked at my truck he told me he thought it would be computer but I chose to fix myself computer wax preprogrammed. Luckly I had no security system to deal with it was plug in a play love your channel
My experience whenever you see a massive amount of engine codes it is most likely a problem with the pcm or in the main harness. Also seen faulty batteries and charging systems do funny things similar. I remember one year we had a super cold stretch in winter. I live near buffalo ny. But it was colder than normal. It was well below zero every night for a week. Had quite a few cars towed in that would not start. Batteries were replaced and still nothing. These were all old rotted junkers... ( only kinda cars we work on around here).. And for whatever reason the extreme cold was resetting the pcm's. Some got reflashed and were fine. Couple others needed replaced all together. Customers were very upset that there $800 car cost them so much to get back on the road. Take it from me fellas... Dont come up north to be a mechanic! Haha. My biggest used tool was the oxy acetylene torch... Haha
we had a few fords of the same era that did this. it was the security system 3/5 times. they all had PCMs that were fried, but the security system was fried on top of that and made it even more expensive. $700 car, with a $1900 fix.
Most likely the surface mount electrolytic capacitors in the PCM are dried out from age. Their capacity goes down and the ESR goes up from age and the colder they are the worse they work. They essentially have 2 functions one which is to pass signals and block DC from one part of a circuit to another. The other is to function as a bypass to ground to eliminate unwanted signals. Weak or failing capacitors may work in mild to cold temps but when the temp drops below a certain point they die and basically knock out the circuit.
I’m not a mechanic, but my f150 harness cut in top of the tranny and firewall. Just like you said all the fault codes displayed. My mechanic charged me to take to the tranny out and found a cracked main harness. it was the open power line damaged to pcm and tranny. cost was about $400 to remove tranny and repair cable. 2001 f150 supercrew 4.6l
When you see like 10-20 codes for all sorts of random systems there really are only so many possibilities. If systems that really have little or nothing to do with each other are all freaking out its either the vehicle has been severely neglected for years. Things kept breaking and not being fixed ( which in ny state isnt possible because we have a yearly inspection that requires no check engine light being on). Or you go to what does tie all the systems together. Which is the pcm, tcm... And main power and ground circuits. Honestly sometimes having a ton of codes is easier to diagnose the problem that 1 or 2. I have seen alot of obvious things. Like a mouse nest ontop a pcm. Or chewed through wires. Or chafed wires. This is why common sense and a good visual inspection can put you miles ahead. Guys who get too complicated in their thinking can miss very obvious easy stuff. Honestly i think thats how the stereotype of mechanics not being very smart guys came about. Because its possible( more so years ago) for a not so intelligent man to be a great mechanic. They use common sense and repeat patterns they have seen to just keep it simple. And in alot of cases the issue is very simple.
@@ronprice7495 Spot on point Im glad I have an experienced mechanic. He knew right away what the problem was by the list of codes and the sudden deceleration i experienced. It was very scary going 70mph on the highway and the truck shifted to 2nd gear in an instant. Nearly skidded off the highway. i would recommend anyone with any older truck with miles on it. Have the main harness inspected. good stuff here much to learn. FYI my 2001 f150 300k miles running strong pass smog in CA ill drive until I can’t
Dude thank you, taught me a lot. I gotta say the drama at the pats system made this video even better, you are an honest dude, you could have edited that whole segment to look different and give the same info, but you even showed your whole process, appreciate that, Subscribed.
I love that there is at least more people like us left in this world, testing it all, taking the time, finding the correct fix. We cant always charge for the time it takes to check these problems, but our credibility precedes us and makes up for it. WELL DONE SIR. From an Advanced Diagnostic Mechanic in South Africa
@Dan H. correct, I t won’t be the last time in your career that you see the same issue and then you’ll be able to save some time. It sucks not getting paid for every minute but it’s the right thing to do. This customer will be happy now and will return to you, not the parts changers! Well done buddy! I’m proud of ya
@Dan H. I had the same thought Dan. You very seldom see mechanics that do that anymore and folks nowadays don’t understand just how critical a ground is! It’s not only the difference between any electrical device working but also the difference between life and death! It’s so common for a bad ground to be the sole problem in an automotive electrical problem and everyone seems to jump right over but many times it’s just a matter of finding the ground, taking it loose from the body/frame, cleaning it and reattaching it and bingo, the lights work again! But seems too many have the attitude that grounds just don’t pay as well as replacing a couple of the high dollar parts instead of just starting with the easy and cheap ground wire first. If that’s the issue then your eventually gonna have to deal with it anyways, lol Keep up the good work Dan! We need good electricians out there like yourself to go with the good mechanics like we have in the video! Take care buddy and be safe out there!!
@@mrobvious5892 that’s a good question mr obvious and to be honest, I will have to go back and rewatch cause I listened to the video and did not watch. I was out in the field planting crops at the time and will put certain videos on to listen to while I’m getting my chores done so maybe I spoke a bit too soon but it still doesn’t change the fact that he still in my opinion used the right troubleshooting procedure of checking grounds instead of skipping and wAiting till after checking everything else if at all. But I’ll go back and look when I have time but I appreciate you letting me know buddy and I’m sorry if I spoke to soon, I’m not perfect either Take care and be safe out there
Thorough diag! I cringe at the thought of replacing control modules myself... whenever I get calls being the third, fourth, fifth mechanic and hearing "the last mechanic replaced the computer" I think, "here we go". But I still start from square one regardless because most don't follow the simple steps first... power and ground is the culprit a lot of times. I enjoyed watching this from beginning to end.
You are an exceptional teacher. Alot of people on RUclips are so irritating cuz they talk too much. A lot of unnecessary blabbering. You get to the point and keep it simple..😉
I wish I could find a mechanic like this guy in my area so I could trust letting a mechanic work on my van home but for now I play my own parts changer after extensive research
Really enjoyed watching someone do trouble shooting the right way. One step at a time, build on what you learned from the previous steps and then take it to a logical conclusion.
Fords have been great to me. Owned an 01 dodge bought new, big piece of crap. Put a lot of money into it and only had 65k on it 8 years later when I traded it for my 09 FORD SUPER DUTY. Haven’t touched the engine except 2 sets of plugs, has 129k on it. No leaks, nothing. So let’s talk about the major problems Chevy and dodge have - wiring, electronics, trannies, engine problems etc. Not that Ford doesn’t have their problems, but a lot less than dodge, Chevy and gmc.
@@daveb9370 I'm sure truer words have been spoken elsewhere, but not here. You are correct sir! Lots of people don't want to hear it but it's true. FWIW, I own a 1998 Silverado.
Haters are going to hate. One problem can give you many faults. I had 3 faults, changed the fuel cap (always start with the cheapest part), some valve under the hood…still had problems….one day I filled my fuel tank to the top, and fuel was gushing from the top of the tank. I stuck my head under there and squirrels were having a nut party on my fuel tank and chewed through a line…… replaced the fuel tank, all codes gone. I was a mechanic in the Army, pretty much a parts changer at the lowest level. You are definitely on an Advanced level. Hats off to you. I can’t get myself to buy a Ford. My neighbor has a Raptor, (you know how much that is) it’s been in the shop more than it’s been in his driveway. Great video, as always.
I have to applaud your technique of doing a quick visual inspection during the beginning stages of the diagnostic. I too do this. I am actually making up a new set of ramps and pedestals so I can drive (or wench) the vehicle on the ramps to slightly raise it 22 inches high, which is high enough to do a visual inspection (and most simple work like electrical repair) below the vehicle on a low profile creeper. After the diagnostic and the repair estimate issued to the customer, I can then either leave it on the ramps or move it to a post lift depending on what's wrong. I have had several ramp designs previously and most aftermarket models need some improvements in order to be reliable and have the features I want. I think ramps are underrated by the majority of mechanics, but I find them very functional and quick when doing diagnostics. Ramps don't have any moving parts, so there is nothing to fail in terms of wear. The firewall and fender ground need to be cleaned. The bolts usually clean up with a wire wheel but they will just rust again. A better solution is to replace them with a high strength stainless steel flange bolt (serrated flange bolts are also available). The eyelets need to be cleaned and the sheet metal cleaned (you can use an aircraft grounding (bonding) tool called an OSBORN PILOT BONDING END BRUSH, to clean the sheet metal, they come in several different sizes). The battery negative is wrapped with electrical tape and should be inspected. You may have to install a new battery lug if so you should just replace the chassis ground wire from the battery (it looks like an 8AWG wire). It is best to test a dedicated ground or power at its nominal high operating current and then measure voltage drop. You test light is not a large enough load to test large power grounds or feeds. I prefer to do voltage drop test with higher currents. The firewall grounds next to the PCM on the left are a little goofy. Why not just expend the wires and attach them to the chassis ground bolt directly from the battery at the fender? If somebody knows why they have to be at the firewall please tell me. But, as far as I can tell it is done this way to expedite vehicle assembly. For the PCM there is only really one main microcontroller used for both the engine and transmission control, and also why it is given by Ford the name Powertrain Control Module. Usually if you have separate processors for engine and transmission, we use the names ECM and TCM, rather than PCM. So, what killed the original PCM?
@@birdlady2725 I know but he also asked people to say what they would do close to the beginning of the vid which is when I commented. As he said many people are just parts swappers and things such as this are a parts swappers worst nightmare. My main thing used to electrical troubleshooting and repair.
@@littleman350 Sorry I missed that part. I used to repair, test and calibrate medical equipment. Used meters, oscilloscopes and many specialized pieces of test equipment. So I get what you said, and you were spot on. Sorry for my confusion. I don't do any vehicle stuff, but I understand concepts and the process and enjoy learning stuff. What kinds of equipment do you work on?
@@birdlady2725 I used to work on literally everything. I work for a shop that did roadside and everything from cars to heavy equipment. Nothing rewiring an 18 wheeler on the side of the road at 3am cause the police won't let him move till he is fixed or towed.
@@littleman350 I used to do paving - tri axle dumps and otr for P rime. You, are a brave soul doing that kind of work! Terrifying working roadside!!! Kudos to all who do recovery/repairs or road construction etc. Fortunately only broke down once - radiator blew out - recall thing not addressed on FLiner. Had to override auto shut down to hobble to truck stop thankfully not far away, so easy tow situation for tt driver. Be Safe out there!
After 30 yrs /being a triple master certified tech with dual advanced certifications /many dealership certificates /plus 3 degrees I’ve got two college master degrees in Electronics & a degree in auto technology from well known automotive School..( only stating that so I’m not sounding like a shade tree) I went into teaching at a Texas university..The first problem ppl with little experience do is they see all the codes and try to fix them all which then hurts the customers wallet,& the truck may still run bad.. The 1st thing is to write down all the codes, then clear them all and then drive it and see which codes come back first and address them, (after basics)as normally one code can pop multiple codes, for a very simple example ,a lean code, a o2 code and every code related to running lean, you can have 5-6 of them,& the problem can at times easily be tracked down to a vacuum leak, or a plugged injector.. It’s simply a matter of being thorough and instead of going through all of those codes like some ,always always check the basics first .limp mode isn’t a big deal, ..check Air/fuel/spark/compression/ battery / all the grounds/ then go into the codes if they come back....screw Worrying about all those codes , I always check and rule out the basics first, a bad fuel pump can cause a ton of issues...(not necessarily discussing this vehicle) Also it is possible a vehicle can have more than one problem if it’s got high miles or the owner hasn’t done maintenance... Also it’s a waste of time in my opinion by not clearing codes first and going from there first/ time is money in a shop for the tech and the customer!!!:) I’m giving advise to those who don’t have a lot of experience as all of us techs who have been around awhile all take short cuts and can tell if certain don’t need to be checked, anyway good video glad it worked out,although I know lots of those you tubers will diagnosed the vehicle first, & then do the video so they don’t look silly ...anyway cheers ..
Eric: *opens wiring diagram* Me: THE SACRED TEXTS! Excellent diagnostic and repair! Every time I suspect a bad computer I check for AC ripple in the charging system. Bad diodes in the rectifier will wreak havoc on almost everything digital. Hate to see a $30 diode bridge wipe out a $300+ PCM.
When I bought my first new car I made the dealer throw in a factory service manual as part of the package Back during the transition to OBD it was priceless
Outstanding diagnosis, and very through (checking pin fitment as well). Somewhere out there are a few parts changers who are bowing in obeisance "We're not worthy!". :-)
I'm @ 6:06 so far. Grounding issues ???? Years ago, I had issues (forget precisely) that indicated O2 sensors error. Had just bought the vehicle off lease and took it back to the national dealer/seller. They tell me all four O2 sensors need replacing @ >$600.00 Ok seemed to work, but while they did the replacement, I went to their office and asked to see if any TSB's from GM were related to my issue. Came back that yes there was a specific chassis O2 sensor ground that was bad and needed to be cleaned. "No need to replace O2 Sensors if the ground was corrected. Well at the end of the day, I paid the money and never went back. I serviced all the vehicle grounds and the vehicle is still a daily driver >20 years later. I've done other work since then and it's running beautiful! By the way, GM also had VCM computer internal ground issues and put out a wire patch kit. I decided to dismantle and service the VCM internally and all's good! It was related to Transmission slipping/flare.
During my time at Oldsmobile, our shop foreman used to scream and holler "We are not a replacement jockey shop!! Check the whole system first & THEN replace the bad part!!" Miss working with you Sonny!! (R.I.P.)
This guy is a technician not a parts changer. Great diagnosis. Im a mechanic and at my job were mostly parts changers. Ive been trying to up my diag. abilities. I've heard test lights are not good unless you have the new ones with the circuit board that are safe for computer circuits.
Eric, you the man! I know it is just another day at work for you, but we appreciate your knowledge. The world could use way more techs like you! Keep it up.
Awesome job! I worked on a Jeep recently that had been through several shops before it came to me. Similar story - lots of parts changed, including the PCM, but the vehicle still wouldn't start or stay running reliably. I did all of the same checks you did, except in my case I found the PCM connector FULL of dielectric grease (ugh!). After cleaning out all that gunk, I found that pin fitment was extremely poor - almost all of the pins were spread open...likely from the weatherproof connector being filled with that grease and the grease not having anywhere to go when the connection was made. After fixing the pin fitment issue, the vehicle started up and ran perfectly. Even some other random issues the Jeep had went away!
Dude you were very thorough. They could have easily diagnosed this and fix the problem. Before I even knew what was going on I was almost guaranteeing that the PCM was trashed. Excellent video
I like your work man, just got a job at a dealer ship and every mechanic is like they are the best in the world, and to me that are a parts changers, lol. Thanks for the video, it was educational.
Yes and no. But that’s why you pay them $100 an hour. His equipment, his experience, his patience and his integrity. His integrity is what makes him be absolutely sure he is not just “throwin parts” at it. But that integrity and Being thorough is in his character.
@@jms460 Yes! It's all about Troubleshooting Skills and Critical Thinking/Reasoning.... My 2003 PT Cruiser GT suddenly started bucking and stalling. Would start fine but after a mile or so would stall (seemed to be electrical, but I'm an old, old wrench and haven't actively worked on cars much since the 1990's). After sitting for a minute the process could repeated. After several stalls it ran good for 10 miles on the Freeway. Next day, same story. I had it towed to a "Reputable, Honest shop" where they reportedly pulled a dozen codes and replaced the Cam Location Sensor. When that didn't make any difference, they replaced the ECM, and now the car wouldn't even start!. After $1,600 of "diagnostics" and throwing parts at it, they admitted they couldn't find the problem. They put my original ECM back in my car and turfed it back to me to figure out..... Their shop rate? $195/hour! Oh, and they carelessly cracked the radiator tank by forcing hoses and wires aside instead of removing the turbo air box to provide tons of room to work. Now they want ME to pay an ADDITIONAL $1,700 to REPLACE the newly-broken radiator and hoses!!! My conclusion is that BAD REPUTATIONS are EARNED! And most often PAID FOR BY THE CONSUMER..... This is a sad state of affairs from my POV, and I tip my cap to true Master Mechanics like the author of this video who are honest and skilled enough to actually find and cure the ROOT CAUSE(s) of the problem!
I’ve only been watching your videos for about a month and have to say your ONE of the best step-by-step guys out there. Pretty nice for an old-school rookie scanner feller. Jobs well done!
You have a way of explaining things that makes sense. Clear and to the point and walking us through your troubleshooting and what you are testing and WHY. New sub. Thanks for helping us learn. Don't change.
As a pcb component repair tech, I always love to splash some Deoxit on any connectors that are out in the elements. That stuff is like liquid gold and helps keep connectors from ever getting crusty.
I sure wish you lived around me man what a jam-up job you do. Very insightful on how you do it, really wish I could get you to work on my truck. Anyways there's your vote of confidence from this person and I appreciate it man.
Wow, I was right! My previous comment about the PCM being bad was made at the beginning of the video. The watched it all the way through to see the result. 😎
Started watching this video right after you put it up but got interrupted and had to stop right before the scan tool spot - today was the first time RUclips algorithm popped it back up so finally got to finish it 👍👍👍
I really would like to see you take the bad module (PCM in this case) apart, and see if it is fixable. It might be a really simple fault, and save a lot of money and time. Thanks.
With Ford computers, three things: bad coil drivers (mosfets or IGBTs) caused by a misfire from plug or coil, bad capacitors - either bad ESR or connections on them, and water intrusion. The computers sit in the wiper well where they get air and water cooled...
You did an awesome job. A lot of mechanics don't know this stuff. I don't! I've been a mechanic for 24 years. However being hourly, they never give me diags like this. I truly applaud you diag skills!
My 1st thought was a bad ground. Then maybe a computer power supply problem. After those checked out, that's when I got real nervous, lol. Great diagnosis and repair.
When seeing similar symptoms on any modern vehicle, I check the battery cables first. With all the added electrical loads, most vehicles today don't play nice with loose battery connections or even weak batteries on many of them. A couple years ago, we had a brand new Buick Enclave come in on the hook, right at closing time, too. The RO said it had died at a stop light and wouldn't restart. Of course it started right up when I got in it. The next morning I checked it over and found the battery ground cable so loose, I don't know how the starter was able to even crank. The car only had 600 miles on it. The customer comes in for her oil changes and rotates without any issues since. She says she loves it. Go figure, I would have been scared of it if it died on me a week after I bought it.
While watching this video about mid way through, with the multitude of random codes pointed to a bad pcm early on. Checking grounds confirmed it. Great job!
Usually on Fords when you have multiple O2 heater codes, that usually indicates the PCM has an internal issue. I've seen those heaters short on the sensors, and it burns out the drivers. It's a fused circuit, but rarely does the fuse blow 🤷♂️
nicely done totally correct to satisfy a frustrated customer that has been charged many of dollars just to break down again for same problem Greg you are right we all are a dying breed I myself have been in automotive 25 years and have had my share of diagnosing a problem vehicle... anyways great job on going the extra mile I can feel that customers relieve and happiness as he is driving around great mechanics are overlooked most of the time ...
What made me feel good about this video is that we had the same exact thoughts to troubleshooting this one. If I see electrical tape I usually remove all that first to see if manmade faults are found , majority of problems I find have more problems added from other attempted repairs. My pet peeve is finding wires cut and twisted back together to check a circuit then taped up unsoldered without shrink tubing. Really good video my friend!
Everyone: most mechanics will just throw parts at it Me: No part changers will throw parts at it .. a real mechanic will diagnose the issue. Know the difference!!!
buddy of mine had a 2005 with problems like this, dealer replaced the engine wiring harness, pcm twice, pedal, etc.. $7500 in cost and 6 months (to used car dealer). lol and it was what i told him the very 1st day he had problems....the ignition system in the steering wheel...seems like years of people grabbing the steering wheel and pulling them selves up into truck wore it out.
Same thing happens with C4 Corvettes. The ignition switch pole will come dislocated because of movement in the steering wheel from ppl using the wheel to support them. Kinda sucks.
@@timothyharlan4734 Sure, in the video he used a test light for testing ground integrity, Test lights don't take a lot of power to light up. My close call was thinking I had a good ground because the test light lit, but in reality I didn't have a good ground because the test light only pulls around a couple hundred milliamps. When I did the same test with a headlight bulb that pulls several amps it did not light up. Since then, when I have similar testing I use a headlight bulb WHEN appropriate. I need to warn everyone you need to know circuit design, you don't want to test a computer controlled ground with a high amp headlight bulb.
Working on heavy equipment pretty much my whole career, I've learned from the older guys that starting easy is the best way to save yourself a Ton of time and headache. Power first, pretty much Exactly what you've said.
@15:49 Yes... Back in the 80's they had separate ECM [Engine Control Module] and TCM [Transmission Control Module] modules and later they integrated them into one package called the PCM. [Powertrain Control Module] When I saw you pull the codes at 7 min, I noticed the scanner misinformation referencing a TCM...LOL [Unless it was talking about the module within the main PCM package. Now days it is crazy with so many modules with the BCM [Body Control Module] being the main intersection for all the other modules.
When I see that many trouble codes, start checking ground bonds. I suspect a ground is causing it to throw so many codes. Run grounds, clean them and try it again.
Most repairs are easy, correct diagnosis is the real skill.
Most definitely
3 minutes in and I’m guessing pcm. I’m not a real mechanic but that seems obvious
Thats the best part. I love when theres a bad grounds. Those always create fun issues.
Agree
The previous mechanics thought they had a correct diag also.
Your complaints about parts swappers are valid. One of my friends had an old Volvo (1995, forgot what model it was). Occasionally when it would sit for a few hours, it would crank and not start. Twice his family had it towed to the mechanic that they preferred to take it to. Each time they changed out the fuel pump. On the third time, it happened when he had it parked at my house. I got my multimeter out and found that there was no voltage going to the fuel pump. Just as a precaution I tapped the fuel pump relay a few times. Then it started getting voltage at the fuel pump, and the engine started upon cranking. Replaced the relay and that car ran fine until he sold it a year or two later (was burning a bit of oil so he decided to sell it and get a newer car since he had the means to do so).
But in that case, the parts swapping mechanic got outsmarted, by a college student with a multimeter.
I really like your straight forward and honest approach! It's humble guys like you that make it pleasant and informative to watch.
Excellent job.
A TECHNICIAN'S DIAGNOSIS IS WORTH MORE THAN AN ENTIRE SHOP FULL OF "MECHANICS" (aka parts changers) and usually costs the customer a tiny fraction of what they would have spent on unnecessary parts and labor with the 'Mechanics'
I'm currently working on a 2010 F150 4.6 triton and the customer says after taking it to 6 different 'mechanic's shops' it hasn't been fixed by them but
>in his words< " it is randomly fixing ITSELF now and then " 😂😂
I'M in the process of pulling the BCM ( which is also the passenger compartment Fuse panel) and Underhood "Power distribution Center" ( the other fuse panel) out so that they can be cleaned out and re-installed because, even after 6 different shops have tried to fix the truck , both of them have so much lime-scale and green copper in them that I cannot get a stable voltage on ANY circuit in the truck... ( yet they have not been taken loose or attempted to be cleaned up ) I understood the problem when the customer first came in... I told him that he was the reason for the problem and he was furious.... until I said that he had left the passenger side window down when it had rained at least once... he said that it had been shattered but he had only replaced it after about a week of rain because he had to wait for payday....
he has taken pictures of the panels and is going to be taking them to the other shops and demanding they refund his money because they didn't even open the inside fuse panel cover OR THEY'D HAVE INSTANTLY FOUND THE PROBLEM.
I am going to spray them out with some QD electronics cleaner and I guarantee that he'll be trouble-free for at least 6 months...
( he's ordered both the panels new mainly because he wants to but they're going to take about that long to arrive but I will have him on the road and reliable until then )
You have a great solid common sense approach!
I was a serious technician in the Navy and the number one fault of almost all electrical was always bad connections. I completely understand your hesitant diagnosis! Great job!
Retired industrial electrician here - troubleshooting industrial machinery and troubleshooting newer cars are very similar. So are the people who work on them. You have your parts changers, and you have your actual diagnostic technicians. I'm proud to say I was the latter. When I determined what needed to be changed, I was highly confident that changing it would fix the problem, because I eliminated all other possibilities, or I could physically see the problem, or I could verify what was wrong with a meter, for example. You are obviously the type that avoids throwing parts at a problem, and that's to your credit.
I own a mechanic shop. This video shows their are still some actual mechanics out there. Way to go man. How not to be a parts changer shown perfectly.
@@denniswhite3487 he really is. Keep on keeping on buddy and don't strangle any engineers. Apparently that's illegal
My Bro too good 🚗👍🤝
A master mechanic here folks. You actually troubleshoot. As an AT I was trained in the Navy how to troubleshoot and your techniques are exactly how I was taught. I remember my final exam in AFTA (Advanced First Term Avionics - an advanced course in Avionics) consisted of about 8 different faults, but it ended up being a single module that was causing the other faults. Very similar to your experience here.
Complete honesty here, this is some of the most in depth breakdown of diagnostics I have seen on RUclips. I watch these for no reason but to become better in the industry, thank you sir for putting out some quality content. Job well done sir!
My girlfriend and I recently replaced her ECM in her 06 Cadillac CTS. I saw all your fault codes and immediately said “it’s the ECU..” after you
Replaced it and it didn’t start my GF said “he didn’t do the security reset! Lol bro, you just needed us with you on that one hahah!!
This guy is way more skilled than the mechanics in my area. Way to go dude, your a master
This guy is more skilled than most mechanics everywhere. He doesn't change parts. He tests don't guess. What I like is he always shows you the end result fixed or not.
Step one....record codes, step 2 clear memory, Step 3 retest for failure codes. Most commonly in my experience, multiple codes = bad ecm,pcm. Good video! Check pcm connections before replacing pcm
This guy is the Dr. House of automotive diagnosis. Nice job!
How refreshing to watch an intelligent diagnostician go through proper troubleshooting. No parts jockeying, just time well spent with a correct conclusion. Good job and an interesting video even for this casual observer. Add me as a new subscriber.
I love your patience. A lot of guys get totally frustrated and start throwing parts at the problem.......You didn't! Plus as frustrating as the problem was you were cool, calm and methodical. Kudos to you!
It already had parts thrown at it so he could rule those out. lol
Methodical always wins the day.
@@billmonroe8826 True, but sometimes the new parts are just as faulty as old parts. Just sayin'
Wow you are a really good mechanic
Electrical issues are the scariest ones to deal with inhsd a 93 f 150 that had starting issues rough idle
I could smell a dead fish smell luckly I found a utube video talking about my problem it had burnt component in the computer
Mine looked exactly like the one in the video solved my problem
Took forever to come across that video a mechanic had looked at my truck he told me he thought it would be computer but I chose to fix myself computer wax preprogrammed. Luckly I had no security system to deal with it was plug in a play love your channel
My experience whenever you see a massive amount of engine codes it is most likely a problem with the pcm or in the main harness. Also seen faulty batteries and charging systems do funny things similar. I remember one year we had a super cold stretch in winter. I live near buffalo ny. But it was colder than normal. It was well below zero every night for a week. Had quite a few cars towed in that would not start. Batteries were replaced and still nothing. These were all old rotted junkers... ( only kinda cars we work on around here).. And for whatever reason the extreme cold was resetting the pcm's. Some got reflashed and were fine. Couple others needed replaced all together. Customers were very upset that there $800 car cost them so much to get back on the road. Take it from me fellas... Dont come up north to be a mechanic! Haha. My biggest used tool was the oxy acetylene torch... Haha
we had a few fords of the same era that did this. it was the security system 3/5 times. they all had PCMs that were fried, but the security system was fried on top of that and made it even more expensive. $700 car, with a $1900 fix.
Most likely the surface mount electrolytic capacitors in the PCM are dried out from age. Their capacity goes down and the ESR goes up from age and the colder they are the worse they work. They essentially have 2 functions one which is to pass signals and block DC from one part of a circuit to another. The other is to function as a bypass to ground to eliminate unwanted signals. Weak or failing capacitors may work in mild to cold temps but when the temp drops below a certain point they die and basically knock out the circuit.
I’m not a mechanic, but my f150 harness cut in top of the tranny and firewall. Just like you said all the fault codes displayed. My mechanic charged me to take to the tranny out and found a cracked main harness. it was the open power line damaged to pcm and tranny. cost was about $400 to remove tranny and repair cable. 2001 f150 supercrew 4.6l
When you see like 10-20 codes for all sorts of random systems there really are only so many possibilities. If systems that really have little or nothing to do with each other are all freaking out its either the vehicle has been severely neglected for years. Things kept breaking and not being fixed ( which in ny state isnt possible because we have a yearly inspection that requires no check engine light being on). Or you go to what does tie all the systems together. Which is the pcm, tcm... And main power and ground circuits. Honestly sometimes having a ton of codes is easier to diagnose the problem that 1 or 2. I have seen alot of obvious things. Like a mouse nest ontop a pcm. Or chewed through wires. Or chafed wires. This is why common sense and a good visual inspection can put you miles ahead. Guys who get too complicated in their thinking can miss very obvious easy stuff. Honestly i think thats how the stereotype of mechanics not being very smart guys came about. Because its possible( more so years ago) for a not so intelligent man to be a great mechanic. They use common sense and repeat patterns they have seen to just keep it simple. And in alot of cases the issue is very simple.
@@ronprice7495 Spot on point Im glad I have an experienced mechanic. He knew right away what the problem was by the list of codes and the sudden deceleration i experienced. It was very scary going 70mph on the highway and the truck shifted to 2nd gear in an instant. Nearly skidded off the highway. i would recommend anyone with any older truck with miles on it. Have the main harness inspected. good stuff here much to learn.
FYI my 2001 f150 300k miles running strong pass smog in CA ill drive until I can’t
Well done. It’s nice to see a technician doing their craft and not just being a parts changer.
Real sharp
Dude thank you, taught me a lot. I gotta say the drama at the pats system made this video even better, you are an honest dude, you could have edited that whole segment to look different and give the same info, but you even showed your whole process, appreciate that, Subscribed.
WOW, real diagnosis, not remove and replace mechanic. Many need to learn from you. Like ground, simple check but very important..
I love that there is at least more people like us left in this world, testing it all, taking the time, finding the correct fix. We cant always charge for the time it takes to check these problems, but our credibility precedes us and makes up for it. WELL DONE SIR. From an Advanced Diagnostic Mechanic in South Africa
@Dan H. correct, I t won’t be the last time in your career that you see the same issue and then you’ll be able to save some time.
It sucks not getting paid for every minute but it’s the right thing to do. This customer will be happy now and will return to you, not the parts changers!
Well done buddy! I’m proud of ya
@Dan H. yes this is the right way to learn and same thing in telaphone system. But over in time it will pay off.
@Dan H. I had the same thought Dan. You very seldom see mechanics that do that anymore and folks nowadays don’t understand just how critical a ground is! It’s not only the difference between any electrical device working but also the difference between life and death!
It’s so common for a bad ground to be the sole problem in an automotive electrical problem and everyone seems to jump right over but many times it’s just a matter of finding the ground, taking it loose from the body/frame, cleaning it and reattaching it and bingo, the lights work again! But seems too many have the attitude that grounds just don’t pay as well as replacing a couple of the high dollar parts instead of just starting with the easy and cheap ground wire first. If that’s the issue then your eventually gonna have to deal with it anyways, lol
Keep up the good work Dan! We need good electricians out there like yourself to go with the good mechanics like we have in the video!
Take care buddy and be safe out there!!
@@1982MCI don, I take it that you believe he actually properly tested those grounds (which he did NOT). Close, but no cigar. What did he do wrong???
@@mrobvious5892 that’s a good question mr obvious and to be honest, I will have to go back and rewatch cause I listened to the video and did not watch. I was out in the field planting crops at the time and will put certain videos on to listen to while I’m getting my chores done so maybe I spoke a bit too soon but it still doesn’t change the fact that he still in my opinion used the right troubleshooting procedure of checking grounds instead of skipping and wAiting till after checking everything else if at all. But I’ll go back and look when I have time but I appreciate you letting me know buddy and I’m sorry if I spoke to soon, I’m not perfect either
Take care and be safe out there
Hammer down buddy.
We need a couple hundred grand of you
You get it right.
Impressive my man, much better job than 95% of most mechanics. You are a diamond in the rough.
Thorough diag!
I cringe at the thought of replacing control modules myself... whenever I get calls being the third, fourth, fifth mechanic and hearing "the last mechanic replaced the computer" I think, "here we go". But I still start from square one regardless because most don't follow the simple steps first... power and ground is the culprit a lot of times.
I enjoyed watching this from beginning to end.
You're a true mechanic not just a parts chaser.
You are an exceptional teacher. Alot of people on RUclips are so irritating cuz they talk too much. A lot of unnecessary blabbering. You get to the point and keep it simple..😉
Finally someone that actually knows his sh-t about diagnostics. Excellent work ALA! Great RUclips vid!
Wonder if he talks like that everywhere he goes?
I wish I could find a mechanic like this guy in my area so I could trust letting a mechanic work on my van home but for now I play my own parts changer after extensive research
Really enjoyed watching someone do trouble shooting the right way. One step at a time, build on what you learned from the previous steps and then take it to a logical conclusion.
The 58 dislikes gotta be from the guys who couldn’t fix it and are jealous of this guy who did. very educational video even if it was a FORD👎
There's got to be at least 58+x dealerships online..... :)
Fords have been great to me. Owned an 01 dodge bought new, big piece of crap. Put a lot of money into it and only had 65k on it 8 years later when I traded it for my 09 FORD SUPER DUTY. Haven’t touched the engine except 2 sets of plugs, has 129k on it. No leaks, nothing. So let’s talk about the major problems Chevy and dodge have - wiring, electronics, trannies, engine problems etc. Not that Ford doesn’t have their problems, but a lot less than dodge, Chevy and gmc.
@@daveb9370 the ford noe has an electrical problem
@@daveb9370 I'm sure truer words have been spoken elsewhere, but not here. You are correct sir! Lots of people don't want to hear it but it's true. FWIW, I own a 1998 Silverado.
Haters are going to hate. One problem can give you many faults. I had 3 faults, changed the fuel cap (always start with the cheapest part), some valve under the hood…still had problems….one day I filled my fuel tank to the top, and fuel was gushing from the top of the tank. I stuck my head under there and squirrels were having a nut party on my fuel tank and chewed through a line…… replaced the fuel tank, all codes gone. I was a mechanic in the Army, pretty much a parts changer at the lowest level. You are definitely on an Advanced level. Hats off to you. I can’t get myself to buy a Ford. My neighbor has a Raptor, (you know how much that is) it’s been in the shop more than it’s been in his driveway. Great video, as always.
I have to applaud your technique of doing a quick visual inspection during the beginning stages of the diagnostic. I too do this. I am actually making up a new set of ramps and pedestals so I can drive (or wench) the vehicle on the ramps to slightly raise it 22 inches high, which is high enough to do a visual inspection (and most simple work like electrical repair) below the vehicle on a low profile creeper. After the diagnostic and the repair estimate issued to the customer, I can then either leave it on the ramps or move it to a post lift depending on what's wrong. I have had several ramp designs previously and most aftermarket models need some improvements in order to be reliable and have the features I want. I think ramps are underrated by the majority of mechanics, but I find them very functional and quick when doing diagnostics. Ramps don't have any moving parts, so there is nothing to fail in terms of wear.
The firewall and fender ground need to be cleaned. The bolts usually clean up with a wire wheel but they will just rust again. A better solution is to replace them with a high strength stainless steel flange bolt (serrated flange bolts are also available). The eyelets need to be cleaned and the sheet metal cleaned (you can use an aircraft grounding (bonding) tool called an OSBORN PILOT BONDING END BRUSH, to clean the sheet metal, they come in several different sizes). The battery negative is wrapped with electrical tape and should be inspected. You may have to install a new battery lug if so you should just replace the chassis ground wire from the battery (it looks like an 8AWG wire). It is best to test a dedicated ground or power at its nominal high operating current and then measure voltage drop. You test light is not a large enough load to test large power grounds or feeds. I prefer to do voltage drop test with higher currents.
The firewall grounds next to the PCM on the left are a little goofy. Why not just expend the wires and attach them to the chassis ground bolt directly from the battery at the fender? If somebody knows why they have to be at the firewall please tell me. But, as far as I can tell it is done this way to expedite vehicle assembly.
For the PCM there is only really one main microcontroller used for both the engine and transmission control, and also why it is given by Ford the name Powertrain Control Module. Usually if you have separate processors for engine and transmission, we use the names ECM and TCM, rather than PCM.
So, what killed the original PCM?
My first thing with that many codes would have been starting to check grounds and wiring harness.
He did that.
@@birdlady2725 I know but he also asked people to say what they would do close to the beginning of the vid which is when I commented. As he said many people are just parts swappers and things such as this are a parts swappers worst nightmare. My main thing used to electrical troubleshooting and repair.
@@littleman350 Sorry I missed that part. I used to repair, test and calibrate medical equipment. Used meters, oscilloscopes and many specialized pieces of test equipment. So I get what you said, and you were spot on. Sorry for my confusion. I don't do any vehicle stuff, but I understand concepts and the process and enjoy learning stuff. What kinds of equipment do you work on?
@@birdlady2725 I used to work on literally everything. I work for a shop that did roadside and everything from cars to heavy equipment. Nothing rewiring an 18 wheeler on the side of the road at 3am cause the police won't let him move till he is fixed or towed.
@@littleman350 I used to do paving - tri axle dumps and otr for P rime. You, are a brave soul doing that kind of work! Terrifying working roadside!!! Kudos to all who do recovery/repairs or road construction etc. Fortunately only broke down once - radiator blew out - recall thing not addressed on FLiner. Had to override auto shut down to hobble to truck stop thankfully not far away, so easy tow situation for tt driver. Be Safe out there!
After 30 yrs /being a triple master certified tech with dual advanced certifications /many dealership certificates /plus 3 degrees I’ve got two college master degrees in Electronics & a degree in auto technology from well known automotive
School..( only stating that so I’m not sounding like a shade tree) I went into teaching at a Texas university..The first problem ppl with little experience do is they see all the codes and try to fix them all which then hurts the customers wallet,& the truck may still run bad..
The 1st thing is to write down all the codes, then clear them all and then drive it and see which codes come back first and address them, (after basics)as normally one code can pop multiple codes, for a very simple example ,a lean code, a o2 code and every code related to running lean, you can have 5-6 of them,& the problem can at times easily be tracked down to a vacuum leak, or a plugged injector..
It’s simply a matter of being thorough and instead of going through all of those codes like some ,always always check the basics first .limp mode isn’t a big deal, ..check
Air/fuel/spark/compression/ battery / all the grounds/ then go into the codes if they come back....screw Worrying about all those codes , I always check and rule out the basics first, a bad fuel pump can cause a ton of issues...(not necessarily discussing this vehicle)
Also it is possible a vehicle can have more than one problem if it’s got high miles or the owner hasn’t done maintenance...
Also it’s a waste of time in my opinion by not clearing codes first and going from there first/ time is money in a shop for the tech and the customer!!!:)
I’m giving advise to those who don’t have a lot of experience as all of us techs who have been around awhile all take short cuts and can tell if certain don’t need to be checked, anyway good video glad it worked out,although I know lots of those you tubers will diagnosed the vehicle first, & then do the video so they don’t look silly ...anyway cheers ..
36:11 DANG! That new PCM really gave that truck some warp speed capability! Another fine video, Eric!!!!! Keep 'em coming, good sir!
You are driving so fast on those residential roads!
Eric: *opens wiring diagram*
Me: THE SACRED TEXTS!
Excellent diagnostic and repair! Every time I suspect a bad computer I check for AC ripple in the charging system. Bad diodes in the rectifier will wreak havoc on almost everything digital. Hate to see a $30 diode bridge wipe out a $300+ PCM.
When I bought my first new car I made the dealer throw in a factory service manual as part of the package
Back during the transition to OBD it was priceless
I'm new to this channel and have been working on cars and anything with a motor since I was 12...started on lawn equip...love your channel
Outstanding diagnosis, and very through (checking pin fitment as well). Somewhere out there are a few parts changers who are bowing in obeisance "We're not worthy!". :-)
Great. You did great. True tech. You showed us all how to do it. You need a DVM. Signed Retired tech.
You Sir are what I call a master Mechanic, you have me wanting to watch more, wow truly impressed.
I'm @ 6:06 so far. Grounding issues ???? Years ago, I had issues (forget precisely) that indicated O2 sensors error. Had just bought the vehicle off lease and took it back to the national dealer/seller. They tell me all four O2 sensors need replacing @ >$600.00 Ok seemed to work, but while they did the replacement, I went to their office and asked to see if any TSB's from GM were related to my issue. Came back that yes there was a specific chassis O2 sensor ground that was bad and needed to be cleaned. "No need to replace O2 Sensors if the ground was corrected. Well at the end of the day, I paid the money and never went back. I serviced all the vehicle grounds and the vehicle is still a daily driver >20 years later. I've done other work since then and it's running beautiful!
By the way, GM also had VCM computer internal ground issues and put out a wire patch kit. I decided to dismantle and service the VCM internally and all's good! It was related to Transmission slipping/flare.
I've told you this before and I'll say it again, you're one amazing mechanic!!! Thank you for Sharing
During my time at Oldsmobile, our shop foreman used to scream and holler "We are not a replacement jockey shop!! Check the whole system first & THEN replace the bad part!!" Miss working with you Sonny!! (R.I.P.)
Well done with your thorough analysis before throwing parts at it. You have a very good understanding of systematic procedures.
This guy is a technician not a parts changer. Great diagnosis. Im a mechanic and at my job were mostly parts changers. Ive been trying to up my diag. abilities. I've heard test lights are not good unless you have the new ones with the circuit board that are safe for computer circuits.
Eric, you the man! I know it is just another day at work for you, but we appreciate your knowledge. The world could use way more techs like you! Keep it up.
You’re on par with scanner scanner and PHAD. I appreciate you dumbing it down for us that don’t understand wiring diagrams. 👍
Awesome job! I worked on a Jeep recently that had been through several shops before it came to me. Similar story - lots of parts changed, including the PCM, but the vehicle still wouldn't start or stay running reliably. I did all of the same checks you did, except in my case I found the PCM connector FULL of dielectric grease (ugh!). After cleaning out all that gunk, I found that pin fitment was extremely poor - almost all of the pins were spread open...likely from the weatherproof connector being filled with that grease and the grease not having anywhere to go when the connection was made. After fixing the pin fitment issue, the vehicle started up and ran perfectly. Even some other random issues the Jeep had went away!
Dude you were very thorough. They could have easily diagnosed this and fix the problem. Before I even knew what was going on I was almost guaranteeing that the PCM was trashed. Excellent video
I was very impressed with the way you were able to diagnose and fix this Ford truck.
I like your work man, just got a job at a dealer ship and every mechanic is like they are the best in the world, and to me that are a parts changers, lol. Thanks for the video, it was educational.
This guy has the patience of a Saint. I want him troubleshooting my car if there's a check engine light.
I have lots of patience too when someone is paying me by the hour
Yes and no. But that’s why you pay them $100 an hour. His equipment, his experience, his patience and his integrity. His integrity is what makes him be absolutely sure he is not just “throwin parts” at it. But that integrity and Being thorough is in his character.
@@jms460 yep, that's the difference between diagnostics and swapnostics!
@@jms460 Yes! It's all about Troubleshooting Skills and Critical Thinking/Reasoning.... My 2003 PT Cruiser GT suddenly started bucking and stalling. Would start fine but after a mile or so would stall (seemed to be electrical, but I'm an old, old wrench and haven't actively worked on cars much since the 1990's). After sitting for a minute the process could repeated. After several stalls it ran good for 10 miles on the Freeway. Next day, same story.
I had it towed to a "Reputable, Honest shop" where they reportedly pulled a dozen codes and replaced the Cam Location Sensor. When that didn't make any difference, they replaced the ECM, and now the car wouldn't even start!. After $1,600 of "diagnostics" and throwing parts at it, they admitted they couldn't find the problem. They put my original ECM back in my car and turfed it back to me to figure out..... Their shop rate? $195/hour! Oh, and they carelessly cracked the radiator tank by forcing hoses and wires aside instead of removing the turbo air box to provide tons of room to work. Now they want ME to pay an ADDITIONAL $1,700 to REPLACE the newly-broken radiator and hoses!!!
My conclusion is that BAD REPUTATIONS are EARNED! And most often PAID FOR BY THE CONSUMER..... This is a sad state of affairs from my POV, and I tip my cap to true Master Mechanics like the author of this video who are honest and skilled enough to actually find and cure the ROOT CAUSE(s) of the problem!
I’ve only been watching your videos for about a month and have to say your ONE of the best step-by-step guys out there. Pretty nice for an old-school rookie scanner feller. Jobs well done!
You have a way of explaining things that makes sense. Clear and to the point and walking us through your troubleshooting and what you are testing and WHY. New sub. Thanks for helping us learn. Don't change.
😎😍😘
There one on bottom at stater on bellhousing and it alluimume I've had a car just like that one it was bad ground
Bright light
Inside left kick panel lh kick
Clogged convertir
Well done only the experienced mechanics have the NOW HOW after 47 years ...!!
With mechanic's like you the future of auto repair in in good hands, great video.
Their are mechanic than their are master mechanic. You are a master mechanic bro.
As a pcb component repair tech, I always love to splash some Deoxit on any connectors that are out in the elements. That stuff is like liquid gold and helps keep connectors from ever getting crusty.
There are part changers, and then there are automotive technicians. This guy is an actual technician. Well done.
Don't know how I ended up here, but you're a sharp guy. Good work
Incredible skills that no longer exist. You are a real Master.
Say No to part changers :) I like you. Good troubleshooting thanks great video. This should shame every dealership in North America.
I sure wish you lived around me man what a jam-up job you do. Very insightful on how you do it, really wish I could get you to work on my truck. Anyways there's your vote of confidence from this person and I appreciate it man.
Wow, I was right! My previous comment about the PCM being bad was made at the beginning of the video. The watched it all the way through to see the result. 😎
I like your method of problems diagnosing logical uncomplicated simple and easy
One of the best tutorial videos I have seen, well done my friend!!!
Started watching this video right after you put it up but got interrupted and had to stop right before the scan tool spot - today was the first time RUclips algorithm popped it back up so finally got to finish it
👍👍👍
I really would like to see you take the bad module (PCM in this case) apart, and see if it is fixable. It might be a really simple fault, and save a lot of money and time. Thanks.
@Timothy Mckee Send it to Louis Rossman lol.
@@desertsoldier41 🤣 I'm 100% sure he could fix it if he had a schematic.
With Ford computers, three things: bad coil drivers (mosfets or IGBTs) caused by a misfire from plug or coil, bad capacitors - either bad ESR or connections on them, and water intrusion. The computers sit in the wiper well where they get air and water cooled...
You did an awesome job. A lot of mechanics don't know this stuff. I don't! I've been a mechanic for 24 years. However being hourly, they never give me diags like this. I truly applaud you diag skills!
A friend of mine has the same problem. Only that he had installed a new radio and damaged the cable going to the ignition switch.
You went above and beyond in fixing the problem .
My 1st thought was a bad ground.
Then maybe a computer power supply problem.
After those checked out, that's when I got real nervous, lol.
Great diagnosis and repair.
My uncles truck has the exact same problem. It is doing exactly what you describe. Great video.
When seeing similar symptoms on any modern vehicle, I check the battery cables first. With all the added electrical loads, most vehicles today don't play nice with loose battery connections or even weak batteries on many of them. A couple years ago, we had a brand new Buick Enclave come in on the hook, right at closing time, too. The RO said it had died at a stop light and wouldn't restart. Of course it started right up when I got in it. The next morning I checked it over and found the battery ground cable so loose, I don't know how the starter was able to even crank. The car only had 600 miles on it. The customer comes in for her oil changes and rotates without any issues since. She says she loves it. Go figure, I would have been scared of it if it died on me a week after I bought it.
This is a real technician - well done
Great job explaining everything. I am impressed with how well you explained your thought process for troubleshooting. Not many can do that.
While watching this video about mid way through, with the multitude of random codes pointed to a bad pcm early on. Checking grounds confirmed it. Great job!
Great methodology, impressive diag as usual. 10/10.
That was awesome bro I've never seen a video that informative 👍
Usually on Fords when you have multiple O2 heater codes, that usually indicates the PCM has an internal issue. I've seen those heaters short on the sensors, and it burns out the drivers. It's a fused circuit, but rarely does the fuse blow 🤷♂️
Your not a mechanic, your a master technician
THANK YOU FOR AN AMAZING THOUGHTS ANALYZES; TOP OF THE LINES, SUPREME STUDY CASE.
nicely done totally correct to satisfy a frustrated customer that has been charged many of dollars just to break down again for same problem Greg you are right we all are a dying breed I myself have been in automotive 25 years and have had my share of diagnosing a problem vehicle... anyways great job on going the extra mile I can feel that customers relieve and happiness as he is driving around great mechanics are overlooked most of the time ...
Great video! Had my bets on rodent damage at the beginning, that was just way too many DTCs.
Yes, those little critters can cause thousands of dollars in damages by eating the tasty insulation off the wires and pooping all over them!
What made me feel good about this video is that we had the same exact thoughts to troubleshooting this one. If I see electrical tape I usually remove all that first to see if manmade faults are found , majority of problems I find have more problems added from other attempted repairs. My pet peeve is finding wires cut and twisted back together to check a circuit then taped up unsoldered without shrink tubing. Really good video my friend!
Everyone: most mechanics will just throw parts at it
Me: No part changers will throw parts at it .. a real mechanic will diagnose the issue.
Know the difference!!!
We call the guys that throw parts at them, "Gas Station mechanics". As opposed to real mechanics, or auto technician's.
I noticed he also called them parts changers
Ground
A mechanic just swaps parts a technician diagnoses the problem
@@bobthompson4319 a technician changes oil and checks tire pressure
buddy of mine had a 2005 with problems like this, dealer replaced the engine wiring harness, pcm twice, pedal, etc.. $7500 in cost and 6 months (to used car dealer). lol and it was what i told him the very 1st day he had problems....the ignition system in the steering wheel...seems like years of people grabbing the steering wheel and pulling them selves up into truck wore it out.
Same thing happens with C4 Corvettes. The ignition switch pole will come dislocated because of movement in the steering wheel from ppl using the wheel to support them. Kinda sucks.
ALA good logic sequence and diagnosis. Anybody that can fix beat up Fords can fix just about anything.
Great diag, just be careful using a test light testing grounds and power. I have had close calls because they only pull a few hundred milliamps
John Huffnagel: Please explain the "close calls" you had.
@@timothyharlan4734 Sure, in the video he used a test light for testing ground integrity, Test lights don't take a lot of power to light up. My close call was thinking I had a good ground because the test light lit, but in reality I didn't have a good ground because the test light only pulls around a couple hundred milliamps. When I did the same test with a headlight bulb that pulls several amps it did not light up. Since then, when I have similar testing I use a headlight bulb WHEN appropriate. I need to warn everyone you need to know circuit design, you don't want to test a computer controlled ground with a high amp headlight bulb.
Working on heavy equipment pretty much my whole career, I've learned from the older guys that starting easy is the best way to save yourself a Ton of time and headache. Power first, pretty much Exactly what you've said.
That was some awesome troubleshooting. I learned one new thing out of that. Thanks for the video.
I like your methodical nature and that you verify rather than assume what the problem is.
Man you are wonderful at diagnosing problems and you're a great technician job well done 👏 hard to find techs like you
@15:49 Yes... Back in the 80's they had separate ECM [Engine Control Module] and TCM [Transmission Control Module] modules and later they integrated them into one package called the PCM. [Powertrain Control Module] When I saw you pull the codes at 7 min, I noticed the scanner misinformation referencing a TCM...LOL [Unless it was talking about the module within the main PCM package. Now days it is crazy with so many modules with the BCM [Body Control Module] being the main intersection for all the other modules.
When I see that many trouble codes, start checking ground bonds. I suspect a ground is causing it to throw so many codes. Run grounds, clean them and try it again.
Id think this or a harness/connector is having issues 5min into video so far
Not only ground but also low voltage on the ECU. Usually it's good to check both when running into such an issue.
except the rebuilt pcm is using the same grounds and connectors. try again.
@@diavalus I agree
Bad grounds can definitely cause issues like this, but i have seen too many times that a loose battery connection has created these problems.
This guy knows his stuff
36:10 Legit thought for a second you were going like 150mph haha
The flow of the video has been getting awesome, no low point
He was test driving the new F150 Lightning
This is a great channel. I work in a shop and dont have any formal training. Im a young guy and this is helping me get better at my job. Thank you.
Nice job! I don't blame you for being a little nervous. I imagine that computer isn't cheap.
This guy should teach a diagnostic course very good attitude and lots of patience 👍 😉
hey man love the vid thanks for showing the whole diagnosis process helps us all be better mechanics.