Making a Viking Puukko knife - Pt.2 - Clay hamon, heat treating and the guard!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- We are Making a Viking Puukko knife! In Pt.2 we add clay to the blade to make a clay hamon and heat treat it, this is how to make a hamon line! I cover the entire heat treating process in depth and then move right on to making a textured knife guard. I added the textured guard so it would look aged. I really wanted to produce a video series that fully documented the steps involved with making this simple yet beautiful Viking Puukko knife! The Finnish Puukko is a timeless design that is extremely functional in bushcrafting! Thanks for watching!
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Congratulations, the partial heat treatment is successful, the patterned knife. At the same time, I also learned new skills.
Thank you Hans!, I will launch the sheath video this Sunday. It is the best in the series!
Great work!! And water quenching is dangerous...
It definitely raised the hair on my neck!
Awesome hamon man !
Hey thank you!
Here in India( my country) water quench is done. And knives are awesome they are strong and capable of taking torture. No cracks. Great video hamon line look cool.texturing is always fun beautiful👍👍👍
That is awesome information! It seems like it's taboo here.
@@Aleeknives ya i know .check out Amazing Kk he make some amazing knives and swords and always does water quench.
I will do that! Thank you
Tous dépend de l'acier utiliser.
Les aciers faibles en carbone supporte une trempe à l'eau.
Great video man.
Thanks again Robert! I appreciate the feedbacka
Here it is! Part 2 has dropped!
Let's go! 😎
That hamon came out sweet, Airin! Always nervous with water quenches, but a very quick in and out doesn't harm the steel.
I'm looking forward to part 3 now!
Cheers mate 🤜⚡️🤛
Kaboom
you have little shop helpers too, I see. That's awesome
Yes sir! Of the 4 leg variety and 2 leg variety! 😁
Hamon turned out awesome. Looking great so far. Looking forward to the next one.
Thank you Davin!
Great explanation. Liked the suggestion on heating bladexslower using steel tubing inside furnace. Hamon is beautiful 😍. Thanks, God bless.
You're welcome! The tube in the Forge worked out really well, I will definitely do this more in the future
Well bud that was a great hamon , sweet. Water quench is always scary but you hit it on the nose. Looking forward to seeing part 3. Keep up the great work.
Thank you! Part 3 launches tomorrow morning!
That's freakin awesome man. I'm really not a puko(or however you spell that) fan, but I'm paying attention and hoping i retain this knowledge. Thank you for these videos
Rock on!
Looking good m8! Cant wait to see the final product!
The thumbnails kinda spoil it! It does turn out awesome!
@@Aleeknives yeah they do a bit. Maybe next time dont show the finished product, just start with a pic from each stage at the beginning. The surprise finish is half the fun.
I don't think it makes a lot of sense to do a differential heat treat on a puukko knife since they are suppose to have a scandi grind. When you sharpen a scandi knife, you're suppose to remove metal from the whole bevel. So if you etched it and polished it to bring out that Hamon, it will all have been for nothing once you sharpen it.
Regarding the water quench, I think it's better to quench it in water for 1 to 1.5 seconds before putting it in the oil. That way it cools down to below the TTT nose before you take it out of the water, then is allowed to cool relatively slowly in the oil. You can leave the edge a little thicker than normal if you're concerned about cracking, but I've had pretty good luck with this technique.
You are absolutely correct! However, I didn't do a scandi grind on this knife. There is a secondary bevel. most people have no clue how to sharpen a scandi so I made this a little easier to service. Hey thanks for watching my videos!
Nice build... glad you showed the satanite thickness.. I may try that soon. I have to ask though, did you mean to grind the bevel right into the tang and knowingly make your guard fitment more complicated? It's totally fine either way. Kudos to making it work and fit!
I did actually. A lot of Tonto's and katanas are ground exactly the same way. Honestly it really wasn't much harder! Although I admit, I don't think most people would even understand what they were looking at there. Meaning most people wouldn't even know it was harder to do it this way. I thought it was really really cool that there was no ricasso
One of my viewers suggested doing a coffee etch to get the hamon to pop out more. I'd never actually had that cross my mind. I think since it's a mono steel knife the coffee would darken the whole blade just the same don't you?
@@Aleeknives Congrats then... always good to push yourself to do something new! Can't wait to see how it turns out!
@@Aleeknives I'm not sure on the coffee etch. I have mixed feelings on coffee because it doesn't last. I think lemon juice and polish is the way to go (via Walter Sorrels)
Lemon juice and mustard are probably more traditional for Japanese Hammons. I jumped right to ferric chloride acid. I think for 1084 came out super.
We will move right into part 3! We make the mammoth tusk handle in the next episode! here is the link to the series! ruclips.net/video/43P0rIy9Qz8/видео.html
Really love your channel!!! Thanks for all the tips and tricks. What is the brand of clay you used for your hammon?
I use satanite refractory cement for the hamon on this one
Thanks man and keep up the great videos they are so informative!!!
Thanks again!
Great video!
Really good explained but i have a suggestion. Next time try to adjust the sound. Like right now i take the volume so i can hear you speak but when you starting your machines or forge im shitting myself. Waay to high sound.
Otherwise really good video and quality
I heed your advise! I have already begun to do this on later videos since the filming of this one. I agree with you!
The water quench gave me anxiety, have you tried this?
Once, accidentally. I was hammering bevels and that darn red hot knife slipped from tongs to straight to water bucket I was keeping to another reason. Kick the bucket over and trow knife straight back to forge in panic. Knife turned out just fine, besides that incident. Lesson learned. =)
Instant coffee "etch" it for 24hours to get more contrast of your hamone
I have done that for a ton of Damascus knives but it never crossed my mind to try it on a mono steel knife. I guess I thought it would darken the entire blade equally because it was all the same carbon content. I will give it a try! Thanks for the tip!
@@Aleeknives smile
Did I miss an explanation of what your clay is or where to get it? Thanks for the videos!
The clay is for differential heat treat and creates the hamon on the blade. The clay is called satanite. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get your touchmark did someone make it or did you make it, I am looking to make one or purchase one
Thank you for the vids great work keep it up
I made it from 01 tool steel. Real easy to make one. Just draw a picture then transfer it to your steel and waddle away the negative with a Drexel and a carbide burr. Afterwards just heat treat it in the forge and clean it up!
The hamon is really beautiful. Your grind lines looked perfect but I would of been scared to death that with a water quench and then into oil it would of turned that edge into a bacon strip with lots of waves in it. It looks great . Was the quench water and oil heated and if so to what temperatures ?
The water was at room temperature which was probably about 60° and the oil was heated to about a 100 to 120 degrees with a hot chain
Traditional style katanas are also water quench that's what gives it the curve down the back of the spine
@@Aleeknives thanks for answering, I'm trying to learn all I can.
@@Aleeknives I bet that is interesting to watch as the curve appears down that sword. It has to be a WOW moment every time they quench a blade.
Me to! I document my findings for you guys! I really liked the rapid water quench! It seemed to harden the blade edge extremely well! I believe that I would have been able to see any stress fractures after I sanded and etched it in the ferric chloride. I also used a magnified loupe to inspect the edge. I will be doing it again!
Miksi hamon puukolla?
I differentially heat treated the blade using clay to keep the spine of the knife soft!
aaron who made your stamp could you please give me there contact info im looking to get one made or can you recommend someone thanks great looking puuko bro your a inspiration love your videos
I made mine from 01 tool steel. It was actually really easy with a Drexel and a carbide burr. Then heat treated it
Traditional finnish puukko makers only use water