THANKS! I inherited a T/T & didn't know any of this. My black tank was flickering on full. I had the valve open all the time. I didn't even know about flushing the system. I'm learning as I go. After seeing your video, I performed the procedure over and over. I am now sitting on a solid "E". You saved me time, effort, and money, so I say to you, Thank You Very Much.
Your videos are amazing. I'm 21 with a old camper and learning this all from you and other RUclipsrs. I'm so grateful for how much detail you put in because I'm basically going in with no knowledge.
@groush We started using Rid-X because it's cheaper than "RV" tank treatments, and seems to be the exact same bacteriological product. We've continued using it because it works. I don't think there is any type of bacteria -based product you should or shouldn't use - we're tried several and they all seem the same, so just pick one you like. Be sure to stay away from the "blue" formaldehyde-based stuff. Doesn't work, bad for the environment, and banned in some places.
Man, I've owned a Motorhome for 15 years and didn't do all of this, I just Dumped it once and then let the grey water rinse it out, Thank You for the great Tips how to really do a great job!! ;)
😂reminds me of a story my papa told me when I got older I went deer huntin one morning with him and when we got back his neighbor ask me what we did and before my papa could say anything I spoke up and said I shit in the woods with a big smile that memory always made my papa laugh 😆
Rid-X contains natural bacteria and enzymes, just like "RV-specific" tank treatments use.... only less expensive. We've been using it for years without a problem. Cannot imagine any possible harm it could do to the tank.
Great video. I've been doing like this so nice to know I'm doing it right. One final tip is to let the flush go for half a minute (depending on gpm of your water source) after closing the black tank valve to add water to the tank for chemicals. I think it helps with encapsulating the smells as well.
Thank you. I’ve never owned an RV and I really need one but know nothing about it. I feel much better about it now that I know how to get rid of the turds.
My wife and I just bought our 1st used RV a few weeks ago and are taking our 1st trip in it this week. I am very nervous because I haven't done any of this ever before. I am the type of person that needs to SEE things done instead of just reading about how to get things done. This video is GREAT !! I feel a lot better about dumping that black tank now. There's still a lot of things to learn about, but I am subscribed to this channel now. THANK YOU.
Very good and informal video.... I get my new RV next week and I was completely uninformed about how to even start this process of draining the tank you were my first teacher and I will remember this as long as I own an RV that you taught me how to do this so thank you very much for this very informal video
Just open the valve and drive on . By the time you get there the tank will be empty.The rain will wash it away. Go to take a dump and it will hit the road. And you never have to clean the tank. Problem solved.
@loni benton Hi Loni. You appear to have had a failure in the black tank flush line, or possibly an incorrectly installed line. Your dealer should be able to address the problem (under warranty I assume, since you mentioned the unit is new?). Once it's fixed and dries out, you should not have a mold problem from one quick wetting. As long as they can air it out, you should have no worries once the break in the water line is located and repaired. It's probably just a cracked or incorrectly installed fitting, and hopefully easy to find and fix. Please let us know how you make out.
In that case, it's probably best to use some type of commercial tank cleaning treatment or better yet, try out our method for cleaning out a gray tank (we recently did a video on that). SInce you can't get a flush wand down into the gray tank, the concept is the same. Just search for our video "RV QUICK TIP: Gray Tank & Sensor Cleaning" that we posted this past April. Should help your black tank too.
If getting a whiff of #2 is unhealthy, then just using the bathroom is hazardous, no? lol Of course, I only did that for demonstration purposes and am not in the habit of pulling air up through the toilet. Have you tried the ice trick yourself? I have and I assure you that the physical scraping action of the ice back & forth across the bottom of the tank as it begins to melt works like a charm as you drive, removing debris stuck to the bottom of the tank.
If I understand correctly, it sounds like you're describing two separate dump outlets, and having to connect the sewer hose to one of them to dump the black and the other one to dump the grey. I've never seen that before, but that's the set-up, no big deal. Just be sure to thoroughly rinse out the hose with fresh waster after dumping the black, since you won't be getting the grey water rinsing it out.
Sounds like you either have pyramiding, a clogged flush valve (does any water come out when you pull the black valve?) or your tank sensors are gummed up. Did you actually see the water level up high when looking through the toilet? They sell powerful waste digesting stuff at Camping World & RV dealers for build-up that also cleans the sensors. If you have 3/4 tank of pyramiding (which would fail the "sniff test" big time), you might have to call a professional to have the tank cleaned out.
You are absolutely right George. We should have made a better point of talking about the importance of water conservation as well. Dumping with the tank as full as possible (3/4 or more) will avoid rinsing the tank any more often than needed, and trying to avoid dumping in water-sensitive or restricted areas whenever possible (like the desert). Since we use about an extra 40 gallons each time we dump (vs. just running the tank rinse nozzles only), we try to minimize the impact. Thanks!
Hi Matt. Rental RVs are very unlikely to have clear sewer elbows, and since they have probably never been flushed out properly, you shouldn't even bother trying. It's one reason why I would never buy a used RV that had been used as a rental. ;-)
***** If you go to rent an RV it smells like toilet water, there is nothing you, as the renter, are likely to be able to do to eliminate the smell. Unfortunately, caring for the waste tanks requires some knowledge that the typical renter probably does not have. That leads to tanks that are never properly flushed out, and the build-up of waste and the resulting smell. I'd suggest that you check out any rental RV before agreeing to drive it off the lot, and if it stinks, ask for another unit, because it's going to stink for your whole vacation. One other tip... never flush an RV toilet with the vent fan running.
RV refrigerators are generally bi-fuel - propane/electric gas absorption, with no compressor at all. Regardless of whether you're running in propane mode or 110-volt AC electric mode (from your generator or shore power), the process involves heating ammonia for an evaporation/condensation cycle, which causes it to cool. It's a completely different process than a residential refrigerator (which some RVs, including ours, do have).
@groush Using a fair amount of water is the downside of keeping the tank clean. That's one reason we never dump it until it's at least 3/4 (when fully hooked up for a time, we wait until full). We also avoid dumping the black when in an area with water use restrictions. Between the initial rinse and one big fill, we figure we use about 60 gallons to dump our 45-gallon tank, about every 2 weeks. We also use the park's restrooms too, but of course that uses a lot of water as well.
You're right... not difficult at all. I apologize if this video, which is geared toward thoroughly cleaning out a "problem" tank... i.e. one that has been having odor issues, makes it seem as though routine dumping is a big deal. For everyday tank dumping, please see our short video entitled "RV Holding Tank Dumping 1-2-3" for a quick, easy overview. Thanks!
There are definitely things to learn and some special considerations with RVing. Maybe it's sort of a cross between owning a house, a car and a boat all in one, with our own special set of procedures and equipment. But there's lots of support out here for those learning, and the rewards can be fantastic. ;-)
Great video! Also, good to see you are getting your fiber ;) Also, do you recommend a fast way to flush for those of us that do not have a flush hookup? Thanks!
RV toilets and regular household toilets are very different. Be sure to subscribe to our channel (and specify you want to receive an e-mail when we upload a new video) because we're working on a brand new video that specifically addresses how RV toilets work. Should be ready pretty soon!
Wat we think of as a "park model" is basically a mobile home, which would normally have a regular flush toilet, since it's permanently built in place. Do you by any chance have a "5th wheel" as opposed to a park model? Is your home designed to be driven or towed around, or stay in place permanently?
Thank you! I bought my first RV this year and have been doing battle with the black tank- Of course I left the tank open the moment I first bought it and hooked it up to a septic system- Then someone sent me your video- I actually filled and dumped the black tank using the water hose five times. Finally! It registers empty for the first time. Your video is perfect
Dave Marshall So glad you were able to recover from that all-too-common newbie error of leaving the black valve open! Nice to hear, Dave. Thanks for sharing. :)
Unfortunately our hose is permanently attached to the RV's hose reel, but that would work for anyone whose hose is easy to disconnect from the RV. Although, even with the backflow preventer, I might want a little more "distance" between the black water and the fresh. lol
Never heard of composting toilets for RVs, but Googled and found out they really exist. Thanks for the comment. :) It sounds like they're the right choice for some people, but not sure I'm on board with carrying the "humaure" out through the RV in garbage bags. :-/
I can't imagine that very many RV renters have a good grasp of how to manage RV holding tanks. I would guess that the sensors are all gummed up. I picture most rental units smelling like something a lot worse than rotten eggs. ;-)
Only add ice to an empty tank, and only when you are about to take a long drive. The ice will do nothing unless it is in contact with the bottom of the tank, and only if it is agitated. Floating on top of a partly-full tank, or sitting still, won't work.
Many major brand name toilet papers are perfectly safe to use. Check out the video we posted last month on "How To Check For RV Safe Toilet Paper" and don't waste your money on "RV toilet paper", which is over-priced and... crappy. (sorry) lol
Hi. Not sure if I understand your question, since our RV does have separate valves for black & grey tanks. There are some that only have one combined tank though.
Absolutely the most informative video I have seen. We just went from a popup camper with a small porta potty cassette type system to our first travel trailer and your video has given me confidence. I even hit the pause button and went out and bought a "Y" adapter and the anti-backflow valve.
continued... If you DO leave your black tank partly full for long periods of time, be sure to leave extra water in the toilet (maybe 1/3-1/2 bowl full). That water is the barrier that stops odors from coming up from the black tank into the RV. If you return and find no water in the toilet (allowing for reasonable evaporation), your toilet seal may be bad. If you still have water in the bowl, but also tank odor in the RV, you might decide to empty the tank before storing from now on. ;-)
We never have used a seal conditioner, but being full-timers, our toilet gets used all year round, so the seals never have a chance to dry out. Conditioning the rubber is probably a good idea, and if it's not too expensive or too much trouble, we'd say go for it. Once the seal cracks and the water runs out, black tank smell can seep into the RV through the toilet opening. Also, be careful cleaning the toilet to avoid damaging the seal. Hope this helps!
You'll notice we advised dumping only when the tank is at least 3/4 full (when in one place for an extended period, we always wait until the "full" light comes on, dumping as infrequently as possible). The crazy waste of water we see most often is when RVers dump 1/4 or 1/2 a tank, of course using their tank flush attachment each time. And after using all that water, their black tanks still build up debris over the years, as we showed that the flush alone does not clean than tank completely.
So glad that this was so useful for you. I'm thinking of doing an "express" video of the dumping process once we hit the road for the summer (a video that doesn't take 15 minutes to watch, and leaves out the minutiae about how to clean the toilet). lol Thanks for the bullet points! I'm going to see if I can be more succinct, and bullet-point the process in 3 minutes or less. :)
Keeping the black tank valve closed and using bio tank treatment are both good. Without that rubber seal holding a little water in the bowl, odor from the black tank can seep up through the toilet and into the RV. We'd definitely suggest a new toilet seal. Thanks for subscribing!
That's a soap dispenser for washing hands. It came on the RV (nice touch from Newmar). We keep pure castile soap in it, which is non-toxic for washing hands outside. But castile is also a little runny, so we keep it rotated upside down to prevent dripping.
Those windows are great for getting air flow, so a nice thing to keep, if you can keep them from leaking. We don't have any experience with them, but if you haven't already done so, you should join the forums at irv2(dot)com. You can post there and get all kinds of information and help from people experienced with every type of RV make/model/system/problem. It's a fantastic resource that any RV owner (especially a new one) should plug in to. Congrats again on your new RV and clean inspection! :)
We've heard good things about aftermarket tank flushing systems, as long as they are installed properly (we don't know what is involved in the installation, and it might best be done by a professional). If you have a window in your bathroom to put a hose through, using a wand can be pretty easy.
When using the toilet for... #2, we fill the bowl part-way first, so it's more like a regular toilet, with some water already in it. That, combined with flushing it afterward, and also using it for #1 as well of course, puts plenty of liquid in the tank. You don't really need to flush excess water down just to add more into the tank. But by the same token, don't purposely avoid putting water in just to extend the time between dumping. We find that just using it normally works great.
If you're referring to the clear elbow, we've tried all 3 types that we're aware of: 1) the smallest, with only 2 "ears" or "clips" to hold it in place, which was OK for a long time, but then leaked around the seal, 2) the type with the hose attachment (which did nothing) and 3) the type we have now, which we're very happy with. It has 4 ears, so it clamps really tightly to the sewer outlet and has never leaked. It's a bit bigger, but there is still just enough room to twist it into place.
You need to watch our video on this exact subject! :) RUclips won't let me add the link here, so just go to our channel, and look for the video posted last month: HOW TO: Test for RV-Safe Toilet Paper We love Kirkland (Costco) brand!
You definitely want water softener, not fabric softener. 20 Mule Team borax is one brand (in the laundry aisle). If you can't find something like that, you can substitute an equivalent amount of baking soda.
You have hit the nail on the head. The only danger is forgetting the valve closed with the water running, which will cause it to overflow.... out the roof vent! Never walk away from the RV while doing this! And thank you so much for your kind comment. You just made my day!
@MrJoseph1157 A common explanation we've heard for using RV-specific tank chemicals is to avoid damaging the dump seals. Rid-X is the same type of biological agent as many non-formaldehyde RV tank treatments, such as Pure Power (which we used for a while), BioActive, Odorlos, etc. Those brands claim to lubricate the seals, but after many years of using Rid-X, we've never had any problems with them. And we've probably saved enough money to buy several replacement seals. ;-)
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RV! The general wisdom about waiting until 2/3 is to create good flushing action to empty solids from the tank. Honestly, if you flush it thoroughly the way we do, it can be done with 1/4 tank or less (but another reason to wait is to avoid wasting water by flushing more often than needed). As far as how long it can sit partly full... ours has gone 3 months or more when we've been traveling without the RV, and there was no problem when we came home.
@tarantarans Thanks so much for the comment. Dumping really isn't the awful job some people make it out to be (when it's done right). ;-) Hope you end up loving RVing as much as we do!
Thanks very much! We don't have any thoughts about window seals, since ours require zero maintenance or attention, but we'll try to get a video up ASAP about how we maintain our slide-out seals. Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks! I know they make aftermarket kits that supposedly do a good job, but since both of our motorhomes came with factory-installed black tank rinse attachments, we have no experience with them. I'd suggest that a good resource would be the online forums at irv2(dot)com. We've learned a ton from the many RVers there with every level of expertise, including some professional RV technicians. There are surely people there who know a lot about this topic. Happy travels!
We are always fully hooked up when flushing the black tank. Since we're connected to a water spigot in the RV park, the water pump is not needed, and can stay off.
Very well done. Very thorough, and very well delivered. I've been a full-timer for about 8 years, and I've never really thought about the clear elbow concept until now. This just shows that there is always something to be learned from an experienced fellow RVer. Kudos.
Great information!! I am about to retire and go full time RV in about a month. I have been doing a lot of research and your videos are very informative. Thanks for taking the time..Happy Trails!!
I would like to make a Cautionary Note about Holding Tanks in general. My understanding most are made from a polycarbonate or fiberglass material, (plastic). Most have a continuous flange around the top portion of the tank. Many are supported by the vehicle chassis frame from this flange. Don’t make the mistake I did thinking it was OK to travel with these tank partially or full. They will crack open and break at this location in due time, creating the worst mistake you made in a long time. Especially if you’re RV has a full metal covered under belly full of insulation? Play it smart, do it yourself or have your dealer inspect and or install additional supports to the tanks underbelly to take the heavy load of these flanges and really support the heavy load. Happy travels
Not sure what brand RV you have, but we (and all the RVers we know) have traveled with full fresh or black & gray more times than we could possibly count over the past 14+ years with zero issue. Sorry your rig had this happen, but that is not the norm. The tanks are polyethylene by the way.
@Tsiri09 Congratulations on your upcoming purchase and welcome to the wonderful world of full-timing! So glad you found this information useful. Happy travels!
Very well done detailed instructions for problem avoidance with waste tanks. I am a mobile service pro, and will start referring people to your video. Just as detailed and correct as a printed sheet on the topic I have made but in clearly filmed and narrated form. For those that think all this is overkill or nonsense....Pros like myself can help you if the tank fills with solids, and it's expensive. ; )
Very informative video. Me and my wife are getting a travel trailer and we're just getting into RVing. Your video has taught me something very precious. The clear part of the pipe really lets you know when you can do the sniffing test. As I said, we are just getting into RVing and I've been watching several videos on RUclips and this is the best method I've seen yet on cleaning the black tank. Thank you very much for this video.
Congratulations on your upcoming RV purchase, and thanks for your nice note! This video covers the technique we use for a pretty thorough tank cleaning. To see the way we normally dump the tank on a regular basis, we have another video about that: ruclips.net/video/gZFyfsy4ptw/видео.html
Our gate valve had lots of debris when we were at the Texas National Chili cook off 4 day weekend. Seeds, Chile Pepper peels and Atomic 3 Mile Island hot Chile completely gummed up and caused gate valve melt down. Now we tow an outhouse to that event every year.
Excellent. My Camper manual sucks and this answered almost ALL my questions, well done! One question, at the very end of the video you mention to dissolve 2 cups of "water softener" is that water softener salt or did you possibly mean fabric softener? Please clarify. BTW you sound a lot like Mike Rowe ;) Thanks
Glad this was helpful! And I get the "Mike Rowe" reference a lot. LOL! On the "water softener" we mean a product like a laundry water softener like Borax or Calgon. Usually available in the same aisle in the grocery store as the laundry detergent. It just makes the water soft so it wets everything better and helps keep "stuff" from sticking! ;)
Great video, professionally done. From explaining the problem, to showing the order that things should be done, to explaining clearly and succinctly the step-by-step, this is great! A must see for anyone thinking of renting or buying an RV. The tips on using a clear connector, flushing until clear, then the sniff test are priceless. I hear the voice of experience ('don't do this, it happened to me!" throughout. Thank you for a great "how-to".
Thank you. I am about to buy my first travel trailer/home and begin full-timing and boondocking. This cleared up a mystery for me, and gave me sound advice. On the way home with my new-for-me used trailer, I'll fill the black tank with ice while it's towed to the RV park. Love to see more like this.
RVgeeks - I was having a tough time understanding the physics involved with all this, until now - thank you! Your video was perfect, and really helped - 1st time full-time-RV'er-to-be. Jason
Hi Kevin. Your best bet is to look down the toilet with a flashlight to see if there is anything in the black tank or not. If you can see that the tank is full or mostly full, and you are pulling the black valve and absolutely nothing comes out, you may have a defective valve that’s not opening. The other possibility is that you have a blockage, but if that were the case, at least something would likely trickle out. The most likely situation is that your tank sensors are reading incorrectly. But the best way to be sure is to look directly down into the black tank through the toilet.
Does anybody in here live in Tennessee? I live near Watts Bar in Spring city Tennessee I need help I live in a RV Camp and I need help with my RV. Maintenance and help hooking everything up and getting everything in good working condition mostly and to start with most importantly is the septic and water and holding tank I will pay you to fix it and help me
One of the single best instructional videos I've ever seen on RUclips... and I don't even own an RV...Yet.
get one yet?
Of all videos on this subject, this one is definitely the most helpful and informative.
THANKS! I inherited a T/T & didn't know any of this. My black tank was flickering on full. I had the valve open all the time. I didn't even know about flushing the system. I'm learning as I go. After seeing your video, I performed the procedure over and over. I am now sitting on a solid "E". You saved me time, effort, and money, so I say to you, Thank You Very Much.
That's awesome! You just made our day. Thanks for letting us know this was a help. :)
RVgeeks it helped me too
Great job. Thx
You know you've hit the big-time when you post a video about poo and have well over a million views! Well done.
ROTFL!
Your videos are amazing. I'm 21 with a old camper and learning this all from you and other RUclipsrs. I'm so grateful for how much detail you put in because I'm basically going in with no knowledge.
Thanks Morgan! Safe travels!
@groush We started using Rid-X because it's cheaper than "RV" tank treatments, and seems to be the exact same bacteriological product. We've continued using it because it works. I don't think there is any type of bacteria -based product you should or shouldn't use - we're tried several and they all seem the same, so just pick one you like. Be sure to stay away from the "blue" formaldehyde-based stuff. Doesn't work, bad for the environment, and banned in some places.
9:24 Is what you came here for!!!!
Man, I've owned a Motorhome for 15 years and didn't do all of this, I just Dumped it once and then let the grey water rinse it out, Thank You for the great Tips how to really do a great job!! ;)
that's what I was wondering... my guess is that the grey water only rinses the line. two separate tanks...
That’s right Michael. The gray water only rinses the sewer hose, but does nothing for the black tank.
Ugh, you had 15yrs of turds marinating in a hot box🤮
@@TheSebastian5978 105 degree heat outside in the holding tank for 15 years, She was getting pretty ripe.
Hmm. Seems like a lot of work. I think i'll just be like a bear, and sht in the woods instead.
Peachride EightyNine Lmao
😂reminds me of a story my papa told me when I got older I went deer huntin one morning with him and when we got back his neighbor ask me what we did and before my papa could say anything I spoke up and said I shit in the woods with a big smile that memory always made my papa laugh 😆
This did not feel like a 15 minute video, I was so amused by it😂
Rid-X contains natural bacteria and enzymes, just like "RV-specific" tank treatments use.... only less expensive. We've been using it for years without a problem. Cannot imagine any possible harm it could do to the tank.
Great video. I've been doing like this so nice to know I'm doing it right. One final tip is to let the flush go for half a minute (depending on gpm of your water source) after closing the black tank valve to add water to the tank for chemicals. I think it helps with encapsulating the smells as well.
Thank you. I’ve never owned an RV and I really need one but know nothing about it. I feel much better about it now that I know how to get rid of the turds.
nice step by step and great tips. Thanks for sharing
I don't even have an RV and this was an extremely interesting video
My wife and I just bought our 1st used RV a few weeks ago and are taking our 1st trip in it this week. I am very nervous because I haven't done any of this ever before. I am the type of person that needs to SEE things done instead of just reading about how to get things done. This video is GREAT !! I feel a lot better about dumping that black tank now. There's still a lot of things to learn about, but I am subscribed to this channel now. THANK YOU.
Congratulations on your new RV, Ron! And welcome to the wonderful world of RVing!
You are a camping genius when it comes to torlets
+Ruckus Piper Thanks! 😂
Very good and informal video.... I get my new RV next week and I was completely uninformed about how to even start this process of draining the tank you were my first teacher and I will remember this as long as I own an RV that you taught me how to do this so thank you very much for this very informal video
Just open the valve and drive on . By the time you get there the tank will be empty.The rain will wash it away. Go to take a dump and it will hit the road. And you never have to clean the tank. Problem solved.
@loni benton Hi Loni. You appear to have had a failure in the black tank flush line, or possibly an incorrectly installed line. Your dealer should be able to address the problem (under warranty I assume, since you mentioned the unit is new?). Once it's fixed and dries out, you should not have a mold problem from one quick wetting. As long as they can air it out, you should have no worries once the break in the water line is located and repaired. It's probably just a cracked or incorrectly installed fitting, and hopefully easy to find and fix. Please let us know how you make out.
I must admit that was extremely thorough. Thank you so much!
In that case, it's probably best to use some type of commercial tank cleaning treatment or better yet, try out our method for cleaning out a gray tank (we recently did a video on that). SInce you can't get a flush wand down into the gray tank, the concept is the same. Just search for our video "RV QUICK TIP: Gray Tank & Sensor Cleaning" that we posted this past April. Should help your black tank too.
What a great Video. ..
And i don't own a RV....Thinking about buying a RV....YOU SOLD ME!!
What can I do my camper always clogs I have a 2013 camper
More water and less toilet paper.... and be sure to use RV-safe toilet paper. Here’s how to test:
( ruclips.net/video/eDLXXRVe2pc/видео.html )
If getting a whiff of #2 is unhealthy, then just using the bathroom is hazardous, no? lol Of course, I only did that for demonstration purposes and am not in the habit of pulling air up through the toilet. Have you tried the ice trick yourself? I have and I assure you that the physical scraping action of the ice back & forth across the bottom of the tank as it begins to melt works like a charm as you drive, removing debris stuck to the bottom of the tank.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make and post this video! Very much appreciated.
If I understand correctly, it sounds like you're describing two separate dump outlets, and having to connect the sewer hose to one of them to dump the black and the other one to dump the grey. I've never seen that before, but that's the set-up, no big deal. Just be sure to thoroughly rinse out the hose with fresh waster after dumping the black, since you won't be getting the grey water rinsing it out.
I saved this video for when I'm ready to purchase my first rv. Hopefully soon. Love the ice idea. I believe I saw a hot dog during the flush.
Sounds like you either have pyramiding, a clogged flush valve (does any water come out when you pull the black valve?) or your tank sensors are gummed up. Did you actually see the water level up high when looking through the toilet? They sell powerful waste digesting stuff at Camping World & RV dealers for build-up that also cleans the sensors. If you have 3/4 tank of pyramiding (which would fail the "sniff test" big time), you might have to call a professional to have the tank cleaned out.
One of the best/grossest instructional videos I’ve seen!
You are absolutely right George. We should have made a better point of talking about the importance of water conservation as well. Dumping with the tank as full as possible (3/4 or more) will avoid rinsing the tank any more often than needed, and trying to avoid dumping in water-sensitive or restricted areas whenever possible (like the desert). Since we use about an extra 40 gallons each time we dump (vs. just running the tank rinse nozzles only), we try to minimize the impact. Thanks!
Hi Matt. Rental RVs are very unlikely to have clear sewer elbows, and since they have probably never been flushed out properly, you shouldn't even bother trying. It's one reason why I would never buy a used RV that had been used as a rental. ;-)
***** If you go to rent an RV it smells like toilet water, there is nothing you, as the renter, are likely to be able to do to eliminate the smell. Unfortunately, caring for the waste tanks requires some knowledge that the typical renter probably does not have. That leads to tanks that are never properly flushed out, and the build-up of waste and the resulting smell. I'd suggest that you check out any rental RV before agreeing to drive it off the lot, and if it stinks, ask for another unit, because it's going to stink for your whole vacation. One other tip... never flush an RV toilet with the vent fan running.
Good advice about the RV rental check out process....a stinky toilet can really kill the mood...!
RVgeeks
Wow,good advice! Don't the rental companies clean them?? That should not be up to the renter.
RV refrigerators are generally bi-fuel - propane/electric gas absorption, with no compressor at all. Regardless of whether you're running in propane mode or 110-volt AC electric mode (from your generator or shore power), the process involves heating ammonia for an evaporation/condensation cycle, which causes it to cool. It's a completely different process than a residential refrigerator (which some RVs, including ours, do have).
That was one full-O-crap tank. :)
All jokes aside, this was very informational.
Thanks.
@groush Using a fair amount of water is the downside of keeping the tank clean. That's one reason we never dump it until it's at least 3/4 (when fully hooked up for a time, we wait until full). We also avoid dumping the black when in an area with water use restrictions. Between the initial rinse and one big fill, we figure we use about 60 gallons to dump our 45-gallon tank, about every 2 weeks. We also use the park's restrooms too, but of course that uses a lot of water as well.
We have a NO #2 rule in our camper, so much easier to clean
Where do you go number 2
Charlie Langlan we stay at state parks that have outhouses
Frosty Life Good place to get staph infections.
Frosty Life
thesoccerplayer 7 we use the public bathrooms
You're right... not difficult at all. I apologize if this video, which is geared toward thoroughly cleaning out a "problem" tank... i.e. one that has been having odor issues, makes it seem as though routine dumping is a big deal. For everyday tank dumping, please see our short video entitled "RV Holding Tank Dumping 1-2-3" for a quick, easy overview. Thanks!
Very very smart. Thanks for sharing!
There are definitely things to learn and some special considerations with RVing. Maybe it's sort of a cross between owning a house, a car and a boat all in one, with our own special set of procedures and equipment. But there's lots of support out here for those learning, and the rewards can be fantastic. ;-)
Great video! Also, good to see you are getting your fiber ;)
Also, do you recommend a fast way to flush for those of us that do not have a flush hookup? Thanks!
Can I get a rim shot please!
RVgeeks Do you recommend a fast way to flush for those of us that do not have a flush hookup? Thanks!
They make spray wands that you can put down the toilet to spray down the black tank. Check out Camping World for a couple of choices.
Good deal. Thank you.
RV toilets and regular household toilets are very different. Be sure to subscribe to our channel (and specify you want to receive an e-mail when we upload a new video) because we're working on a brand new video that specifically addresses how RV toilets work. Should be ready pretty soon!
I use automatic dishwashing liquid. like Cascade. and hot water. then go for a drive.
in place of camco rv treatment liquid?
Wat we think of as a "park model" is basically a mobile home, which would normally have a regular flush toilet, since it's permanently built in place. Do you by any chance have a "5th wheel" as opposed to a park model? Is your home designed to be driven or towed around, or stay in place permanently?
Thank you!
I bought my first RV this year and have been doing battle with the black tank- Of course I left the tank open the moment I first bought it and hooked it up to a septic system-
Then someone sent me your video- I actually filled and dumped the black tank using the water hose five times. Finally! It registers empty for the first time. Your video is perfect
Dave Marshall So glad you were able to recover from that all-too-common newbie error of leaving the black valve open! Nice to hear, Dave. Thanks for sharing. :)
Unfortunately our hose is permanently attached to the RV's hose reel, but that would work for anyone whose hose is easy to disconnect from the RV. Although, even with the backflow preventer, I might want a little more "distance" between the black water and the fresh. lol
Never heard of composting toilets for RVs, but Googled and found out they really exist. Thanks for the comment. :) It sounds like they're the right choice for some people, but not sure I'm on board with carrying the "humaure" out through the RV in garbage bags. :-/
I can't imagine that very many RV renters have a good grasp of how to manage RV holding tanks. I would guess that the sensors are all gummed up. I picture most rental units smelling like something a lot worse than rotten eggs. ;-)
Only add ice to an empty tank, and only when you are about to take a long drive. The ice will do nothing unless it is in contact with the bottom of the tank, and only if it is agitated. Floating on top of a partly-full tank, or sitting still, won't work.
Many major brand name toilet papers are perfectly safe to use. Check out the video we posted last month on "How To Check For RV Safe Toilet Paper" and don't waste your money on "RV toilet paper", which is over-priced and... crappy. (sorry) lol
Hi. Not sure if I understand your question, since our RV does have separate valves for black & grey tanks. There are some that only have one combined tank though.
Absolutely the most informative video I have seen. We just went from a popup camper with a small porta potty cassette type system to our first travel trailer and your video has given me confidence. I even hit the pause button and went out and bought a "Y" adapter and the anti-backflow valve.
So glad it was helpful! And congrats on your new RV!
You're probably thinking of bleach & ammonia, which release toxic chlorine gas when mixed. No prob with the Rid-X and detergent.
"clean as a whistle" that's what the doctor said to me when I got my first colonoscopy.
continued... If you DO leave your black tank partly full for long periods of time, be sure to leave extra water in the toilet (maybe 1/3-1/2 bowl full). That water is the barrier that stops odors from coming up from the black tank into the RV. If you return and find no water in the toilet (allowing for reasonable evaporation), your toilet seal may be bad. If you still have water in the bowl, but also tank odor in the RV, you might decide to empty the tank before storing from now on. ;-)
We never have used a seal conditioner, but being full-timers, our toilet gets used all year round, so the seals never have a chance to dry out. Conditioning the rubber is probably a good idea, and if it's not too expensive or too much trouble, we'd say go for it. Once the seal cracks and the water runs out, black tank smell can seep into the RV through the toilet opening. Also, be careful cleaning the toilet to avoid damaging the seal. Hope this helps!
You'll notice we advised dumping only when the tank is at least 3/4 full (when in one place for an extended period, we always wait until the "full" light comes on, dumping as infrequently as possible). The crazy waste of water we see most often is when RVers dump 1/4 or 1/2 a tank, of course using their tank flush attachment each time. And after using all that water, their black tanks still build up debris over the years, as we showed that the flush alone does not clean than tank completely.
So glad that this was so useful for you. I'm thinking of doing an "express" video of the dumping process once we hit the road for the summer (a video that doesn't take 15 minutes to watch, and leaves out the minutiae about how to clean the toilet). lol Thanks for the bullet points! I'm going to see if I can be more succinct, and bullet-point the process in 3 minutes or less. :)
Keeping the black tank valve closed and using bio tank treatment are both good. Without that rubber seal holding a little water in the bowl, odor from the black tank can seep up through the toilet and into the RV. We'd definitely suggest a new toilet seal. Thanks for subscribing!
That's a soap dispenser for washing hands. It came on the RV (nice touch from Newmar). We keep pure castile soap in it, which is non-toxic for washing hands outside. But castile is also a little runny, so we keep it rotated upside down to prevent dripping.
Those windows are great for getting air flow, so a nice thing to keep, if you can keep them from leaking. We don't have any experience with them, but if you haven't already done so, you should join the forums at irv2(dot)com. You can post there and get all kinds of information and help from people experienced with every type of RV make/model/system/problem. It's a fantastic resource that any RV owner (especially a new one) should plug in to. Congrats again on your new RV and clean inspection! :)
We've heard good things about aftermarket tank flushing systems, as long as they are installed properly (we don't know what is involved in the installation, and it might best be done by a professional). If you have a window in your bathroom to put a hose through, using a wand can be pretty easy.
When using the toilet for... #2, we fill the bowl part-way first, so it's more like a regular toilet, with some water already in it. That, combined with flushing it afterward, and also using it for #1 as well of course, puts plenty of liquid in the tank. You don't really need to flush excess water down just to add more into the tank. But by the same token, don't purposely avoid putting water in just to extend the time between dumping. We find that just using it normally works great.
If you're referring to the clear elbow, we've tried all 3 types that we're aware of: 1) the smallest, with only 2 "ears" or "clips" to hold it in place, which was OK for a long time, but then leaked around the seal, 2) the type with the hose attachment (which did nothing) and 3) the type we have now, which we're very happy with. It has 4 ears, so it clamps really tightly to the sewer outlet and has never leaked. It's a bit bigger, but there is still just enough room to twist it into place.
You need to watch our video on this exact subject! :) RUclips won't let me add the link here, so just go to our channel, and look for the video posted last month:
HOW TO: Test for RV-Safe Toilet Paper
We love Kirkland (Costco) brand!
You definitely want water softener, not fabric softener. 20 Mule Team borax is one brand (in the laundry aisle). If you can't find something like that, you can substitute an equivalent amount of baking soda.
RVgeeks lol thanks for the clarification.. was thinking water softener salt.
You have hit the nail on the head. The only danger is forgetting the valve closed with the water running, which will cause it to overflow.... out the roof vent! Never walk away from the RV while doing this! And thank you so much for your kind comment. You just made my day!
@MrJoseph1157 A common explanation we've heard for using RV-specific tank chemicals is to avoid damaging the dump seals. Rid-X is the same type of biological agent as many non-formaldehyde RV tank treatments, such as Pure Power (which we used for a while), BioActive, Odorlos, etc. Those brands claim to lubricate the seals, but after many years of using Rid-X, we've never had any problems with them. And we've probably saved enough money to buy several replacement seals. ;-)
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RV! The general wisdom about waiting until 2/3 is to create good flushing action to empty solids from the tank. Honestly, if you flush it thoroughly the way we do, it can be done with 1/4 tank or less (but another reason to wait is to avoid wasting water by flushing more often than needed). As far as how long it can sit partly full... ours has gone 3 months or more when we've been traveling without the RV, and there was no problem when we came home.
@tarantarans Thanks so much for the comment. Dumping really isn't the awful job some people make it out to be (when it's done right). ;-) Hope you end up loving RVing as much as we do!
Thanks very much! We don't have any thoughts about window seals, since ours require zero maintenance or attention, but we'll try to get a video up ASAP about how we maintain our slide-out seals. Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks! I know they make aftermarket kits that supposedly do a good job, but since both of our motorhomes came with factory-installed black tank rinse attachments, we have no experience with them. I'd suggest that a good resource would be the online forums at irv2(dot)com. We've learned a ton from the many RVers there with every level of expertise, including some professional RV technicians. There are surely people there who know a lot about this topic. Happy travels!
We are always fully hooked up when flushing the black tank. Since we're connected to a water spigot in the RV park, the water pump is not needed, and can stay off.
Very well done. Very thorough, and very well delivered. I've been a full-timer for about 8 years, and I've never really thought about the clear elbow concept until now. This just shows that there is always something to be learned from an experienced fellow RVer. Kudos.
Great information!! I am about to retire and go full time RV in about a month. I have been doing a lot of research and your videos are very informative.
Thanks for taking the time..Happy Trails!!
If there's anything that should make someone want to get an RV, it's dumping the black tank! lol Thanks for the nice comment. :)
I would like to make a Cautionary Note about Holding Tanks in general. My understanding most are made from a polycarbonate or fiberglass material, (plastic). Most have a continuous flange around the top portion of the tank. Many are supported by the vehicle chassis frame from this flange. Don’t make the mistake I did thinking it was OK to travel with these tank partially or full. They will crack open and break at this location in due time, creating the worst mistake you made in a long time. Especially if you’re RV has a full metal covered under belly full of insulation? Play it smart, do it yourself or have your dealer inspect and or install additional supports to the tanks underbelly to take the heavy load of these flanges and really support the heavy load.
Happy travels
Not sure what brand RV you have, but we (and all the RVers we know) have traveled with full fresh or black & gray more times than we could possibly count over the past 14+ years with zero issue. Sorry your rig had this happen, but that is not the norm. The tanks are polyethylene by the way.
Dump black tank soon after you stopped traveling .Black tank will be mixed up for better cleaning
Old video.. but awesome instructions. Thank you for posting this and taking the time to show us how this is done! To all the down voters.. screw off.
@Tsiri09 Congratulations on your upcoming purchase and welcome to the wonderful world of full-timing! So glad you found this information useful. Happy travels!
Thank you for teaching me the lessons the EASY way and not the HARD way! :-)
You got it! :)
Then the procedure we do is exactly the same as for your RV. Travel trailer, 5th wheel, motorhome.... all the same.
Can you make an instructional video on dating & relationships?
Very well done detailed instructions for problem avoidance with waste tanks. I am a mobile service pro, and will start referring people to your video. Just as detailed and correct as a printed sheet on the topic I have made but in clearly filmed and narrated form. For those that think all this is overkill or nonsense....Pros like myself can help you if the tank fills with solids, and it's expensive. ; )
Thank you so much for the awesome comment. You just made my day! :)
Can we get a rim shot? lol
Congratulations on your new RV!
Very informative video. Me and my wife are getting a travel trailer and we're just getting into RVing. Your video has taught me something very precious. The clear part of the pipe really lets you know when you can do the sniffing test. As I said, we are just getting into RVing and I've been watching several videos on RUclips and this is the best method I've seen yet on cleaning the black tank. Thank you very much for this video.
Congratulations on your upcoming RV purchase, and thanks for your nice note! This video covers the technique we use for a pretty thorough tank cleaning. To see the way we normally dump the tank on a regular basis, we have another video about that: ruclips.net/video/gZFyfsy4ptw/видео.html
So happy to hear! And congrats on your new RV. :)
Our gate valve had lots of debris when we were at the Texas National Chili cook off 4 day weekend. Seeds, Chile Pepper peels and Atomic 3 Mile Island hot Chile completely gummed up and caused gate valve melt down. Now we tow an outhouse to that event every year.
The ice actually worked thanks thanks thanks... now I will try the laundry and softner
@Alumicone Congratulations on your new RV! Glad to have helped you get started on one of the most important basics.
Wow. Great video for an RV newb like myself. Thanks!
I don’t own an rv and never plan to but this was interesting to watch
Excellent. My Camper manual sucks and this answered almost ALL my questions, well done! One question, at the very end of the video you mention to dissolve 2 cups of "water softener" is that water softener salt or did you possibly mean fabric softener? Please clarify. BTW you sound a lot like Mike Rowe ;) Thanks
Glad this was helpful! And I get the "Mike Rowe" reference a lot. LOL! On the "water softener" we mean a product like a laundry water softener like Borax or Calgon. Usually available in the same aisle in the grocery store as the laundry detergent. It just makes the water soft so it wets everything better and helps keep "stuff" from sticking! ;)
Great video, professionally done. From explaining the problem, to showing the order that things should be done, to explaining clearly and succinctly the step-by-step, this is great! A must see for anyone thinking of renting or buying an RV. The tips on using a clear connector, flushing until clear, then the sniff test are priceless. I hear the voice of experience ('don't do this, it happened to me!" throughout. Thank you for a great "how-to".
Thanks so much! Glad you appreciated the video. And yes... that was indeed the voice of experience! LOL
Thanks for making my day, Tori! :)
Thank you. I am about to buy my first travel trailer/home and begin full-timing and boondocking. This cleared up a mystery for me, and gave me sound advice. On the way home with my new-for-me used trailer, I'll fill the black tank with ice while it's towed to the RV park. Love to see more like this.
RVgeeks - I was having a tough time understanding the physics involved with all this, until now - thank you! Your video was perfect, and really helped - 1st time full-time-RV'er-to-be. Jason
Great to hear, Jason! Happy full-timing! 😊
It's a 2005 43' Newmar Mountain Aire.
Question. I just dump my black tank and nothing is coming out of the valve but it’s saying my black tank is full. I’m so confused
Hi Kevin. Your best bet is to look down the toilet with a flashlight to see if there is anything in the black tank or not. If you can see that the tank is full or mostly full, and you are pulling the black valve and absolutely nothing comes out, you may have a defective valve that’s not opening. The other possibility is that you have a blockage, but if that were the case, at least something would likely trickle out. The most likely situation is that your tank sensors are reading incorrectly. But the best way to be sure is to look directly down into the black tank through the toilet.
Does anybody in here live in Tennessee? I live near Watts Bar in Spring city Tennessee I need help I live in a RV Camp and I need help with my RV. Maintenance and help hooking everything up and getting everything in good working condition mostly and to start with most importantly is the septic and water and holding tank I will pay you to fix it and help me
call a mobile RV tech
Thank you. We are new and this is one of the best videos we have seen