Thrustmaster SF1000 Quick Release
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
- Quick Release mod for Thrustmaster SF1000 steering wheel.
Link to STL files: petermakesthings.co.uk/produc...
Link to 3d printed mod: kapral.store/collections/pmt-...
More details on the quick release system: • Thrustmaster (TRUE) Qu...
How to fit the quick release: • How to get a Perfect F... 
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Hey Peter, nice job. As always you surprise me again with your genius brother 👍. The updated QR's I have are still going strong on all 3 wheels 😉. Great to see you at it again bro, this is great🤘.
Forever Racing 🏁
Thanks a lot for this mod, good clear explanation in the video.
Наконец-то приобрел данную модификацию, установил на свой SF1000 в паре с Sparco P310 - шикарная вещь, спасибо большое! =)
I’m doing exactly the same.
Fantastic video
Thank you for the tip on heating the screws, i used a torch lighter and it worked. Any possibility to get the stl for the small interior shim. I would really love to print myself another one instead of using tape. I need two of them on my SF1000 and only one on my Sparco. Awesome kit, quick shipping as well to Canada.
Hi ! I would have liked to know, the diameter of the quick release of the SF1000? I have the same wheel, I would like to integrate a Quick Release from the Simagic brand with the base that I currently own. Do you think it's okay or not? Thank you for your answer !
Great video!
Seeing the internals... yup it's definitely prepared for the direct drive base!
Hello I wanted to know why there were 8 wires on the connector for the steering wheel when there are only 6 pins on the din connector Thank you and good day
Amazing video, very informative with easy to follow steps. However, could you send the link for the slim quick release, as I cannot find one that looks like yours. And I don’t want to order the wrong one.
Hi do you do a fitting service for the sf1000 quick release?
Do you still sell the .stl files or is it now only possible to buy the printed ones?
hey, do you need to restart the base after swapping wheels? Seems like when I do it with F1 and Alcantara wheels, only the wheel it started with works, the other one doesnt, so curious if it's the way.,
Would really appreciate the answer!
Hey Peter I use a solder iron and used a lighter nothing the screws still will not move.. would you know were to buy the spider from I have the f1 ferrari 1000 wheel
Hi Peter what is your price on th quick release parts?
Hi Peter, do you sell the 3d printed parts direct from the uk? Saves paying so much shipping from Kaprel etc.... ??
Can I still get one of these? This is an old video?
Tried the soldering iron method, but it just wasn’t transferring enough heat. 20-30 careful seconds with a heat gun worked perfectly.
Ma dove lo posso comprare questo pezzo.Grazie.
Make sure to use locktite with the 3x16mm M5 screws on the 3d print otherwise within a year it will get very loose. Also I recommend to get a good 100$ quickrelease both Cheap ones that i got get weak and also end up having a gap/lose. Im putting everything back together the way it was.
Genious!
Why you dont make a protection for the conector?
I did, here it is: ruclips.net/video/5SOOPYOJAnA/видео.html&ab_channel=PeterMakesThings
Can i do quick system with t300 RS GT BASE?
yes, all tm servos that use the 'threaded quick release' are compatible
@@petermakesthings7342 But you only made the part at the front of the handlebars (at the base it has a turning system that you can't click.
all the details are here: kapral.store/pages/thrustmaster-true-quick-release-mod
5:18 WARNING! TL;DR You may need to use a Dremel or similar tool to cut out the top part of each screw on the spider. The posts holding each screw are not hollow, therefore you can cut the top of them; They will still hold the screws.
The reason I had to do this was because the screws wouldn't come off before inevitably getting stripped. I used a soldering iron to heat up each screw, and eventually decided to go with a torch lighter instead. Bad idea!
I think the torch heated up the spider's aluminum quicker, which lead me to believe that the steel screw was just as hot and that the glue melted. If you use a soldering iron and direct the heat at the screw, it will take significantly more time for the surrounding aluminum to heat up and let you know that the screw is piping hot, and that the glue is very likely melted. Hence why it is a better method.
Also, if you go the Dremel route, make sure to not clamp the spider too tight when you're cutting. One of the two long arms got bent on mine and I could no longer screw them in. I tried to unbend it with my bare hands and it snapped.
Otherwise, this is a fantastic mod!
Same problem here 2/3 worked perfectly but the last stripped. I try to use some of these screw removal tools tomorrow. Hope it works.
the JST isn't 2.5mm, it's 2.0mm and it's a PH, not an XH. When I ordered from Kapral Simracing, they sent me the wrong cable. As I live in the US, it may be a US vs EU thing, but the 2.54 XH JST is about 1.5mm too wide on either side of the wheel's connector, and I had to order the parts to make my own cable. otherwise, the QR is great. A friend of mine (also in the US) has had this wheel since around the time you made this video, and his connector is the same as mine, and looks the same size as the one in this video... so I thingk Kapral sent me the wrong connectors on the cable.
Vende pela Amazon? Envia para o Brasil?
Electrical tape my friend. Ducktape lmao
I would buy this but it to complicated for my brain 🧠 and getting the actual quick release off the net 🙃 ill mess it up for sure.