Thrustmaster Ferrari SF1000 detailed disassembly
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- Опубликовано: 27 май 2021
- I was very intrigued to see how the newest Thrustmaster SF1000 steering wheel is built so decided to take it apart :)
00:19 - Intro
00:50 - Paddle Shifters
06:37 - Backplate and Clutch paddles
13:58 - Quick release and aluminium 'spider'
21:40 - Rotary Encoders
23:26 - Rotary switches and pcb
31:47 - Internal components overview
35:44 - Carbon Fibre plate and push buttons
42:25 - Grips
44:53 - Screen
47:31 - Main pcb and MCU
51:33 - Conclusions and findings
The quick release mod is now available for this wheel, you can find the files here: petermakesthings.co.uk/produc... 
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Nice teardown, very detailed. Thank you
Hi Peter, thanks for the breakdown. I'm very much looking forward to getting your excellent quick release mod for this brilliant wheel ASAP 👌
Great Video. I hope it worked when you put it back together again. I love these types of videos because it makes doing repairs so much easier when someone already showed you how it comes apart.
Build quality looks way above the wheels of the past, I really don't feel I paid too much money for this wheel now I have seen how well it is made.
If we can get this wheel working independently on USB that would be the icing on the cake !!
Hey, great work showing the inside and all the components on the SF1000. Thanks for showing the Clutch pedal spring etc. I can check if i can buy a stronger spring maybe to put in it
Hi! I have this wheel but with broken lcd, do you have display spec so I can buy on amazon or Aliexpress?
Yeah i need this to
Hi Peter excellent breakdown…. Thank you for producing this it’s greatly appreciated.
This proved so useful, as I bought the T Chrono paddles and they, when fitted, work completely in reverse… the left shifter shifted up/ was number 2 in the game panel/ moved the navigation right.
And the right shifter shifted down, was number 1 and moved navigation left???
Go figure so your breakdown of the standard shifters gave me reference for the correct wiring and confidence in ease of opening etc/ access to the wiring/ printed circuit board.
And what do you know, popping open the cover I could see the the assembler had completely ignored l of the labelling on the circuit board (L and L for wiring for left shifter and R / R for the wiring right shifter) and side ring them to the incorrect part of the board.
A quick desolder/ resolder and all is good again , normal shifting service had been resumed ;)
You don’t expect to have to do this on a £55 bit of kit… pretty poor really there is obviously no QA at all at Thrustmaster otherwise this wouldn’t have got through that…
Thanks again Peter.
Thanks Peter, great tear down video. You really need to see if you can plug that USB C connector on the back of the board into your computer and see what happens. That could be a gateway to be able to hack the wheel, just like you suggested.
Thank You for this Video
Hello Peter !
I'm doing a wheel at home and i use a stm32 to. But i don't know how to emulate pit button/ drs/ ers .......
Then I ask you if you can connect all the pin on the back of the wheel (connection to the force feedback) to an arduino and read all data with the ide ...
Thanks for that detailed video, i am curious about how much power consumption this wheel has and so how much power the base can provide.
Is it possible to measure that out? Would be interesting in terms of how much and what type of components for diy wheels could possibly be powered directly through the base.
Спасибо, отличный разбор руля! Очень полезно!
Loved the tear down! Have you tried plugging in a USB C to pc and see what it does? Would love this on my OSW it’s a nice looking wheel
Hello. Do you know how much current this wheel is getting from the wheel base?
having not being able to play with mine yet cos i cant connect it via the tm portal to my fone so sending back for repair and they have suggested its the wifi card so in the process of sending back over the next few days hopefully
Hello I wanted to know why there were 8 wires on the connector for the steering wheel when there are only 6 pins on the din connector Thank you and good day
I've tried to heat the screw to 400° for 10 minutes but nothing has changed...any suggestion?
do you know how to reduce shifter sound? it’s too loud for me
Very nice video of the break down of the wheel.. but the 6 leg spider were mite i buy this part from please advise
I used a lighter and heat gun and can not get the screws to break loose at all i really got it hot nothing so im looking to see if i can just get the 6 leg spider part..
looks nice ... and they confirm that it will work with ACC soon.
in Italy it costs at least € 350 ... do you think it is worth the cost or with that amount would you choose a custom steering wheel?
Is it possible fpr the quick release screws that you heated to become lose on their own? My wheel has weird play in the qr. Maybe i need to take it apart and see..
Hello ! I have a question , why the 8 pin JST finish in a 6 pin mini Din for connection ? Any useless wire ? Shield ? I would like change this Din connection to GX16 but I don’t know if 6 or 8 pin.
For connexion with the base out of the center.
it is possible to take the Frontplate off only? Maybe by remove the 6 screws on the Front?
Are there news about your SF1000 SR Adapter you are alles to share?
Is there any chance to make the gear shifts more silent?
yeah that's smt I want to look into, these are so annoyingly loud...
Hi, I just got me a SF1000 (used) and I'm expericing the so called "ghost button" issue. Do you know if is related to the base or to the wheel ? if so, if I changed the ps2 plug fot new one, would it solve the problem? Also someone metioned using WD 40 to fix it
Hey Peter, Did you manage to figure out what the rotary's were?
I'm also looking to buy a few for my own projects
Unfortunately I didn't :/
Six leg spider would you happen to know were I could buy it from please advise. I don't need the black part of the spider just the aluminum part..
Hi Peter, would you have any plan to design a aftermarket grip for this wheel? The rubber on the stock one just wearing out very quickly on mine so I'd super happy if you can design one to replace the original one. Thanks in advance
I'm afraid that would be a massive amount of work, I would recommend just wrapping them with a tennis grip tape, will be more comfortable and you can replace them cheap
@@petermakesthings7342 I see. Thanks. Will probably do that after mine wears out a bit more.
Hy do you know how i can replace/repair my wheel.
I have already looked online but i cant find a solution.
So my problem is: my on/ off switch is broken .
It doesnt snap into place ( switch on place/position) .
It automatically snaps back to (off place/position)
😮 thanks
Peter, do you have any insight on the potential cause AND solution to the screen freeze? This is such a common issue and Thrustmaster has no solution that fixes it for good.
Imgine this wheel works with fanatec and the display as able to connect to sim hub.
I guess fanatec will make a wheel like this soon
Awesome video. I personally think that flimsy plastic quick release which is my least favorite part of my Thrustmaster gear; is unable to handle any force higher than 6-7 Nm.
On certain wheels such as the amazing Sparco P310; you could hear plastic cracking noise coming off the wheel at higher than normal torque.
and that makes me think that the dd from tm will have very low torque, probably smt like fana csl dd
Hi peter, have you made the quick release for this wheel yet? Loved the video!
Hi, the qr mod is already on kapral.store I just don't have the time to do a video about it because of my day job :/
@@petermakesthings7342 ok thanks!
Peter, do you think it's possible to mod this wheel into a full custom DIY wheel with an arduino in it?
Is it possible to remap the s1 Button to oil or k2?
With cable clips or something?
On console s1. Is the Ps Button an its next to your right thumb. And Its f.... Annoying.for me
By any chance , did you dumped the firmware from that stm32 ? 😅
Hey Peter, great Video. Just one quick question: are you planning to maybe reverse engeneer it using an Arduino!? Would really love to see that!!!
I wish I had the skills... not sure if that's even possible tbh, what you could do if you had the skills is to hack it and replace with custom software to make it work via usb and probably even make it compatible with simhub, problem is having the knowledge to do smt like this :D
I actually am going to be doing this. My only concern is getting an OSW quick release to fit on it
Hi Peter, I just purchased a SF1000 wheel of an auction site. However, the description said that the Y/N Lever was broken or faulty. I just wanted to see if I can fix it myself or do I need to take it to a professional? Btw, great tear down video of the wheel tho. Keep it up and hope to hear back from you soon🤝🫡
So the thrustmaster quick release system will not be able to be used on the sf1000, shame
Were you able to put the clutch paddle back ?
Hi Peter , My wheel getting noisy after first 3 to 5 minut when I starting ,,look like noise of some fan but after I watching your video I not fan there … can I contact you
Hello, My sf1000 the left side Paddle Shifters can works, but my right side does not work, what is the problem? what do i need to disassemble and buy
I've bought new Paddle Shifters but he still works on the left and the right doesn't
I suspect it's the sensor but I don't know how to fix it, what do I need to buy
Hy man thx for your vidéo !!
i don't know if you can help me bet i have a problem with my new product.
My right shifter doesnt work.firmware IS ok thé latest. Thanks à lot 👌👌
Me too! What did you end up doing?
I have problem that those pads in shifters peeled off and now they are not properly working. Anybody know how to fix it ?
I am also having problem with the shifters. Any suggestions on what to try?
@@williamgonzalezcastillo8224 nope, still have no idea. Maybe buy new ones :/
Thanks! They were sold out. So I did some research and found that someone used pliers to gently lift the metal contact points in the wheel itself. Then used some spring washer (the ones that are cut) in the screws and tighten the side of the contacts first. So far working after one hour of heavy use.
@@williamgonzalezcastillo8224 is somewhere tutorial ?
@@dominikkondas3694 unfortunately no video tutorial. But it’s still working so I think I nailed it. Basically, get some pliers from the hardware store and some “split lock washers” (Google it. It’s the washer that has a small gap).Then, remove the screws of the paddles and remove the paddle unit from the wheel. You will see that in the right side of the WHEEL (not of the paddle unit) there are some contacts which are golden colored. With the pliers, gently grab one by one and lift them softly and a little (1mm approx). Once done all will look the same just a little higher. Now, insert the paddles and screw. First I screwed tightly the side with the contacts (so screws 2 and 4 first which are the up right and bottom right). It’s here where you want the washers. Insert a washer to each screw before screwing. They will be left between the screw and the paddle unit, as this washer will avoid that the screws loosen themselves as a result of the vibrations. Hope this is helpful for you and let me know if it worked.
I think screen is 4 inch instead of 5 inch
wow! thanks so much for making this video. Very interesting indeed. You are more fancy than me with the Mitutoyo calipers ;) I still use my cheap Amazon calipers haha
:D thanks, I use the callipers a lot so when the old one got damaged decided to get smt that will last for years
So the only part that actually broke at my SF1000 was the "10" button and he skipped the part about how that was build inside...
My button rotates and comes loose sadly
Hi Peter. I can see at 17:59 that the JST connector of the wheel conector with the base has 8 cables, while the PS/2 (DIN6) connector is only 6 pins. Did you check the purpose of each cable/pin?ruclips.net/video/Mq9zUNZfgzY/видео.htmlsi=GO1sIThFbFr5pZbI&t=1079. Thank you for this brilliant review/teardown.