Your 5 year old video helped me today. I was fighting that back bolt for the bracket. You advice of just loosening the other bolt and sliding the cover to the side was a life saver, I was stuck and cussing ford, but found your video and got the bracket off. Thanks
That's the bolt that separates the men from the boys when doing this swap. I didn't have too much trouble with mine but it took about 15-20 minutes to break it loose on my car. I was starting to wonder if I was going to get it off but I finally got it to loosen up.
Another thing to consider is the Dorman intake has significantly shorter runner length that can affect performance. I believe Late Model Restoration made a dyno video comparing the power outputs. I don't remember exactly by how much, but the Dorman manifold made +20 hp less and much less torque.
I have the ford racing pi intake on my cougar. Its npi motor but i picked up 15 hp from 3.8k rpms to 5.6k rpms with it + a tune. Had a doorman on it at one point because it was cheap but it was even worse than the stock npi intake if im being honest.
@captaincobb8146 id assume something in the line of replacing the manifold was faulty then (air leak/ plugs/ injectors/ gaskets) the genuine ford intake has longer runners and makes a lot more up top. On an npi 4.6 its a gain of about 15 peak hp. On a pi motor with the doorman intake its a gain of roughly 20 peak hp because the short runners dont flow well for the pi motor. It might make more torque down low and that could also be where ur feeling an increase on butt dyno but its a terrible intake overall.
@@readylucas It's been over a year since I did the job... I had to do it due to a coolant leak when the intake broke. Know this... I'm retired today but when I was half retired I worked at a speed shop (I did low-ends, and Scotty did the Heads). I looked closely, comparing the Dormen to the stock intake. My conclusion was that the passageways were larger in diameter and with better flow angels on the Dorman. They both had to go to the same place. So I didn't see longer or shorter distances. I raise my right hand and state... I felt an increase in pep. She could even lay down more rubber [not that I do that much], just seeing. You would love my 2007 Crown Vic P71! I gave $3.500... with ~150,000 miles. A week later the Trans went out [ didn't beat it]. 1)Rebuilt Trans @ the best Speed Shop in the Mid-West $3,800. 2) Lifetime... Starter, Alt., Waterpump, Raderator fans with module. 3) Intake. 4) Leather front seats out of a Lincoln Mark (something), but they had the same controls. 5) Both read axels and wheel bearings. 6) W-rated tiers so I could see 170 MPH [ It's a dream up there ]! 7) New; 150db Siren, Dashcams [F&B], Stereo Head. No money can buy my P71. Because it is my escape car if America goes really bad. And we are in trouble! Thanks for reading. I enjoy writing!
Thanks for this well thought out video. I have carried around all the parts and the intake in the trunk of my car for years to do this exact fix and today my original intake with the plastic runner cracked resulting in a fountain on top of my alternator. The bracket you are talking about on the rear of the driver's side is for safety in the event of a severe frontal impact to protect the fuel lines. It possibly could prevent a fire if a driver was entrapped and unable to get away from the vehicle quickly. Surviving a horrible crash only to burn alive is not anything anybody would want to experience. I understand why everybody cuts this bracket in half because it is a major pain in the seat to remove and it must be reinstalled.
A good refresher video. Thank you. I put an OEM manifold on a 97 Tbird back in 2004. Recently in cold weather that manifold has warped and allows a vacuum leak and a code 302. Using a Dorman aftermarket this time. Can’t drive this thing forever anyway. I’ve had the Dorman manifold working great for the last 8-9 years on a 99 crown Vic. Again, great video!
Another thing to take note of is the intakes from the trucks and vans are all-metal for the 4.6 engine. They do get more air flow for low-end torque mainly. They are taller though so I'm not sure if they'll fit under the hood without any modification.
I had a ‘02 crown Vic LX 63k H.O. Beautiful but the alternator actually melted the plastic intake crossover tube behind it! The dorman intake has the built in o ring style gaskets which is an updated design because the typical style factory gaskets had problems with leaking. Dorman sells the o ring gaskets by themselves if you ever need them.
I got my intake manifold online from rock auto it comes with the gasket plus thermostat and the new brackets for the new intake manifold it only cost me 190 took three days to get to me definitely the best place I bought parts at if I got time to wait on them
Also while the manifold is off, change the oring on the water pipe that comes out of the back of the water pump into the valley. They will eventually leak.
Smart man. I have a 2005 crown victory but my original manifold had the aluminum coolant runner & it cracked on the driver's side in the back, so I (being cheap) went to the local auto parts store "not naming names" & bought a replacement, mine was $220.00, but it lasted 5 months & I just replaced it again tonight. With the same one only because of warranty. If I replace it again I'm gonna say the hell with the warranty & buy OEM next go around. Unfortunately I've gotten quite good at it, I can have it off in about an hour & then back on in another hour and a half.
I have a 2007 f150 4.6.. these still leak at the front, the 2 little D shape gaskets under the aluminum coolant runner.. I got lucky I only have to replace the gaskets.. there's a 50/50 chance the manifold intake cracks where the D gaskets sits. Mine was leaking on the left side under temperature setting unit ... caused ignition coil #3 to misfire..
I was able to find a PI intake on an '09 Crown Vic Taxi in a junkyard, took it off myself and paid only $40 to fix the coolant leak and a nice little power boost. Bought new gaskets online and the modern intake fit my '98 Lincoln Towncar like a glove.
Chris did you have any issues with the water pipe that sits in the valley of the motor? From what I understand the pi intake sits lower in the valley and will hit that tube coming from the back of the water pump. The PI models seem to have the pipe routed more along the side of the valley rather than in the bottom.
mrelectron62 yeah luckily I remembered to grab the different coolant pipe off the donor car too. There's also a threaded bolt end that was sticking right out of the top of the block on my car that had no obvious way to remove it, so I broke it off with a hammer. It was apparently the engine shake sensor or something like that, hasn't seemed to affect my car in any way. After a couple tries I was able to make the new intake fit the way it should.
Good deal Chris, I got mine from some one who was going to install it on his mustang but never did. I wound up using part of the mustang tube and part from my Lincoln and cobbling them together with some 3/4th in heater hose since the bend at the back of the motor did not match up with my heater core inlet.
mrelectron62 Haha clever. Silicone is also a really good friend for DIY car stuff too. I used it to get a good seal on the water pump exit nozzle because it didn't have any rubber O rings. Good job 👍🏼
Double check your part number when you purchase the intake manifold. The issue I had is they sold me a doorman 615175, I needed a doorman 615178 on the surface they basically look the same, that doesn't allow me to properly secure the passenger side aluminum crossover.
I just got a quote in st. Louis from a ford dealer for the upgraded intake, alternator brackets and gaskets for $307.00 I'll be using this one to save myself from aftermarket crap.
1:25 that, is the sole reason for me replacing the intake manifold on my 99 Mustang. I thought I could just buy a new hose and coupling but apparently not.
I agree but also ford installed on '02 town cars a "deflection plate" on the front and rear of the motor to push the motor down and under the cabin in a head on frontal collision. Beware removing "extra" parts, just my 2 $
Good job buddy.... I have a 2000 grand marquis and used the dorman product. I should have purchased the 2002 or newer to get the increase coolant volume. My car had 100,000 miles before I had any problems and hope to get another 100k. Next time I will be sure to post a video as well.
I got an OEM intake manifold from from a junkyard for my a 2011 Crown Vic for $38. It was a little dirty and slimy inside. After cleaning for 10 mins it was like a brand new part. I think Ford wanted like $375 for one.
I Bought a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquies with the same Problem Spent the day Sunday n Removed the old Intake getting the new one on thursday or friday pretty easy so far and also will get all 8 coils while it is apart. great video.
I got a question about my grand marquis it’s a 1999 and I have the intake manifold off and the door hose at the end towards the transmission there’s a hole that a plastic plug was coving I can’t find the part or name
I took that coolant hose out and replaced it with normal flexible coolant tubing, it saved me alot of time and money vs buying a PI coolant hose, it works just fine
My car got used on Scotty Kilmer's youtube channel; It's a 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis with 57K miles as of today and I got it as my first car. I'm not a gambler and just bought the new manifold since my car has the 100% plastic one and I wanted to know if the new one has any known problems?
Make sure the aluminum runner on the intake is tite, mine were loose so now I've got to redo my intake and its a doorman...it bolts to underneath the front of the intake..other than that take your time and be really clean, I've seen ur car on Scott's channel, nice ride take care of it...
my moms 2001 marquis is leaking coolant below back of engine to the ground infront of oil pan back by bell housing. 78,000 miles. see no leaks by heater hoses or nipple coming from manifold. none in front by thermostat. can't identify where leak originates. don't want to get a new intake manifold just to pull old one off to see the hose/pipe under manifold is the leaker. i did also see small puddle below the muffler pipe after car sits from running for about 15 minutes. how did you id where your leak was from? suggestions? thank you so much
I got a 2004 Grand Marquis LS I was that these cars have that problem after looking at your video I'm glad they change the part from plastic so my car has the new update part because they change design in 2002 thank you for your video assistance.
@@JohnDoesGarage I gotta question so I just did a tune up on my 08 grand marquis and when I took the boot off there was coolant on top of my spark plug on cylinder number 5 I was gonna go ahead and change the gaskets does my car just have gaskets or do I have to replace the whole intake manifold?
Yea the connector for the old heater hose was pressure fitted, the o ring gasket would slip or wear out and make the engine smoke, the new one is actually intergrated.
I just installed the new intake from 1Aauto and it has the gaskets integrated. Anyway, I noticed some bad wear on the rear driver side water jacket so I used some gasket maker before mounting the new intake hoping it would prevent a leak. Well, got it all back together and after a pretty good drive noticed a fine spray leak at that rear driver side corner pushing through the gasket maker product. Now wondering if I remove the intake to repair the water jacket runner, will all the independent gaskets be compromised that are built in? The new intake cost $107 so maybe just have to get another one...Please let me know your thoughts on this issue. I originally priced local shops and they quoted about $1200 for this job parts and labor. Another learning lesson here. Should have made sure the surface was repaired but wondering best way to repair it going forward... Thanks for comments recommendations.
Dorman and clones with integrated gaskets suck hard. If on a budget, OEM junkyard pull is a good option. Inspect mating surface for cracks. Also remove crossover and inspect gaskets and channel on top side for expansion due to coolant crystallization.
I am in the process of changing my alternator and wiring harness, I noticed something black plastic behind the alternator that's breaking apart, now I know what it is .. I'm not going to change the intake manifold now but I know I will have to very soon.. Dam!
I am in the process of replacing the intake manifold its leaking the black plastic around it is breaking apart. I bought a new OEM intake manifold ot comes by a new black plastuc cover😁😁. Am just confused on using the gasket with the ultra black or only gaskit
Kinda strange. I have a 2000 E150 with the 4.6. And it has the cast front crossover. I am now having to work on a leak in the front heater hose connector nipple. It has a pinpoint hole in it. Crazy.
the lip that gaskets sits in will Crack an break in pieces .. I found a chunk of it in the heater tube under intake when doing a pi swap on my 96 mustang.
Did I fuck up? I replaced it but got dirt in the injector holes, cleaned as best I can and put back together. It ran fine for like 10 min, than injectors started leaking, replaced orings and the leaking stopped but now as soon as it starts it dies.
After checking under the hood mines is full aluminum I guess the previous owner already experience the leak at an earlier stage and got it replaced I’m at 135k and no leaks just might need a clutch replacement in another 10,k but it’s a pretty solid car I beat up every weekend
That part you cut off that mounts to the back of the head on the driver side is to keep the wires away from the heat so they don't catch fire or melt together and short out
I know this is a year old but possibly I got a 06 and I just went with the new intake it's not that expensive as this guy in the video was saying not even bother with the new alternator bracket didn't seem necessary and I also have Uncle that's a form of mechanic of these beasts and he advises it's no big deal but is it really
I'm not really understanding this guy I'm not totally to the end of the video yet but did he double up on gaskets like from the non OEM package all the way to using the OEM gaskets
Dorman intake was fine - don't over think it. Replace ur plugs and wires - if any of the plug holes are wet just do it. Pull the fuel rail- two seconds to disconnect. Nothing was too hard to get to - don't worry simple tools can do the whole repair. Save u a ton of dough on parts and labor at least here in NJ.
Did you have to buy a separate kit the bolt because I bought one at a dealership and it didn’t come with the brackets the bolt thermostat the kit or anything
I had the option of buying just the manifold for the kit with the new alternator bracket and the longer bolts for the thermostat. I bought mine from the local Ford dealer.
My 06 had the aluminum intake which also leaks after 70k miles. The Dorman intake is now $380 bucks. They also use o-ring style gaskets instead of the Ford flat ones....I'd chance that rather than doing this whole job over. Labor states five hours....try three days.
I have a 2007 f150 fx2 with a 4.6l. I believe the old intake was aluminum. I didn't remove it. The plastic intake is off and wouldn't seal. So I found an old aluminum intake with lower and upper still attached. About to attempt getting it on. Any advice? Oh, the guy that was working on the truck( so called mechanic) was using grommets I believe. I found one. 2007 didn't use grommets did they?
A stock 2007 manifold should be the new design with the aluminum coolant runner and the rest plastic. If it was all aluminum it has been changed. I think the truck manifolds were all aluminum but are taller and you can't close the hood. The gaskets for the stock manifolds should be available. I hope I understood your question.
I am going with the Dorman. The reason I am not worried about stripping out the coil mounting nuts is because my truck has 200,000 miles now, and only on its 2nd set of plugs and coils. I doubt the truck will outlive another plug and coil change.
I have a question about the intake manifold. When I put everything back together, on the passenger side, the intake manifold gasket is sticking out right next to the egr valve I cannot find what goes there to cover it.
The EGR valve is on the side of the throttle body housing. With the manifold installed you should only be able to see the edge of the gasket in the small gap between the intake and the head. If it is the actual gasket you see protruding then the gasket is not located correctly. The EGR tube attaches to the EGR valve and there is a gasket between the EGR valve and the throttle body housing. I hope I understood you correctly.
I did this job right after I bought the car so I did change the water pump, belt, tensioner and idler pulleys, plugs and coils. It had a couple of bad coils.
The part is discontinued by Ford. The only thing available is either used or aftermarket. The Dorman part has a separate seal around each port where the OEM part is a complete separate gasket that covers all four ports on each side.
Hello, I'm Brian Shelton. I've got 98 crown Victoria lx, fore hundred sixty two thousand miles on my car. My original intake manifold nipple coming off the intake going into the firewall to the heater coil. In the am I'm gonna try to change this myself, those gaskets you used its a whole piece gasket? Don't have to trim these things? I'm getting my gaskets from Ford dealer tomorrow am. I might have more questioners soon!!! I watched some video's of yours, the fuel pump surely did help me out a lot. Only took 9 hours. But it's still going strong. Thanks for the videos.
I spent numerous hours trying to find "someone" "anyone" that would spend a minute describing that pain in the arse bracket mounted to the right of the throttle housing. Finally it was made known there are (2) 13mm bolts/nuts down between the firewall and engine...to remove to get off a 2nd bracket/plate but doesn't show that plate or "if" it were fastened back in place once loose. Still appreciate knowing what I have to tackle next. On a Lincoln town car I've had to lay on top of the motor just to reach down to get the first of the 2 13mm nuts. What poor design
I have a 2007 Lincoln Town Car and that metal plate on the driver side back fire wall is one useless piece of crap I swear to God I hate that fucker. I am in the process of changing mine out now and that bracket was a POS.
I have a 2000 Town Car - I find it easier to just remove the wiper assembly and cowling to get to thous bracket bolts! After spending a couple hours trying to get to thous bolts !
Thanks for the video. I don’t know if anyone can answer this for me. Do you add the gasket silicon on the heads or on top of the gaskets? I will be doing this soon.
I did this job on my 2007 P71 cop car. I too will drive it until I die. Two things... @3:17 while talking about the brass inserts. If you know how to follow the threads in a plastic hole, by first inserting the screw and then turning it backward until the screw falls into the lead original thread, the threads will last ~ forever. @6:15 I just got rid of that stupid bracket and got a screw that was the same as all of the rest. That bracket is about the stupidest thing I've ever seen and I wasn't about to be stupid enough to put it back on. Nice job cleaning up the head!
I having a hard time finding the right gaskets for my f-150 4.6l 2 valve . Every one I have found including the dealer the little tabs on the wrong side the dealer told me to just cut them off. Well that's wasn't good advice.. how about selling me the right part .my motor has the P.I Heads and it's a Windsor. And the gaskets that came off of it where larger than the little ones there telling me that goes on there. I also had the problem finding the harmonic balancer. The ones they keep giving are small the one that came off was much larger. I ended up ordering one for a f-250 that fit perfectly.. my truck was assembled in Kansas City. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.. like said I have talked to a lot of people including the dealer. No help. I did run it to a guy here on the tube.. that says you have a left handed gasket with the tabs on the inside. And a right hand gasket outside mine is the outside .. ????
I just finished up, taking my buddies manifold off... ( 2000 LS). that's where my good luck ended... I found oil on the plugs (coil pack side) what should I do now? also finding sludge in the lower manifold coolant ports; more so on the drivers side.. my question is what should I do now... I have read that I need to replace the valve cover gasket and seals. Is this true? Also will I have to remove the master cylinder and booster? That part sort of scares me as I have never done one... Once I got everything out I did find that removing the windshield wiper assembly and motor gave the access to those rear bracket bolts... note: I checked inside ports ( had a good bit of char but didn't see any oil inside them or burned intake valves.. Good sign?
I have an all aluminum intake on my 2005 E150 van with a 4.6. Do you recommend reusing the aluminum intake or should I buy the one you used in the video? I'm inclined to want to hold on to the aluminum intake
Some people are saying the all aluminum manifold is too tall and the hood won't close on a car. I don't know that myself, that's just what some people are saying in the comments.
It's bot stated in any yt vids I've watched on this subject, but I found, after struggling with that stud/bolt in the back, it's MUCH easir to get to if you just remove th big plastic wiper motor cowl assembly. it takes a lot less time in the long run to do that.
Also back of the block is an inspection plug grab on only can get it from ford not a have to its a fly wheel inspection plug but it's like 5 bucks part number ford is f3az-6c070-aa 4.6 gt mustang
Also I don't bother anymore disconnecting the fuel lines from the fuel rails. I just keep the rails off to the side. Saves time and not really in the way of installing new intake.
the dorman part with no gaskets beefs up the plastic below the bypass tube, far less prone to failure! the bolts are cheesy, but the intake runners seal great,and wont leak fluid like the gasket will, no absorbion!
I have a 98 Grand Marquis, with 79,000 miles. I'd like to get ahead of it like you did. It's not leaking or anything. But what's the part number of the Ford intake manifold I need? Also where would be the best place to get it?
Where did you put the ultra black? Did you put it on the gasket and then place the gasket down? Or did you spread it around the cylinder hearts and then lay the gasket on top?
It screws into the top of the aluminum coolant runner on the passenger side. In the video you can see on the right side as you're facing the car where the thermostat goes and the threaded hole for the temperature sensor is on the left side.
Great video. thank you. I am seeing some 'wetness' in my 97 grand marquis spark plug well #5. I initially thought it might be oil (based on the dark color and 'gooey-iness' of it). But, now I am wondering if its coolant seeping out of intake manifold. I have several pictures at my google photos page: photos.app.goo.gl/dpDjp3fGaQ9Pombn7 DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THIS IS COOLANT, OR OIL, IN MY SPARK PLUG WELL? OR HOW I CAN TELL?
i know i very late in responding but coolant is made of ethelyn glycol a type of sugar alcohol it smells sweet and tastes sweet too but don't lick it its causes almost immediate liver failure if you ingest too much
@@trulyblessed8767 sorry I missed your question. The problem was a tiny leak from the intake manifold that was seeping out coolant, that made its way past the spark plug boot, and into the well that the spark plug sits in, thus shorting the current, and causing the misfire. I put a new intake manifold on, which fixed the misfire.
Thank you for this video. May I ask you how much this intake replacement job will cost - parts plus labor? Someone in my area sells 1999 Lincoln Continental LS priced $1700 and I am just wondering if this would be worth.
that's a crash bracket. if you were to have just the right front end impact you'll break your fuel rail without that bracket. but yeah I definitely wagered not keeping it.
I debated whether to modify the bracket or just toss it, but decided to keep it. For about 30 minutes worth of easy work you can remove the windshield wiper cowling and pivot arm assembly (six ph screws and six-8mm bolts) and then that crash bracket stud and wire bracket that is bolted to the head is right out in the open where you can see it and get tools on it with no problem.
All these cars, especially the 98-03 will need the IM replaced at one point or another. When it will happen is anyone's guess. Look for any leaks, smell of coolant, steam coming from the IM area (Coolant hitting the block).
I also change both valve cover gaskets on mine since it was so easy to do with the intake gone. I used the cheap Dorman was not impressed. My car is 10 years old in the water ports both sides or eroded like yours was as well bizarre
That happens from electrolysis. Only way to prevent is change the coolant every couple of years. Never was a real issue till they all went with aluminum heads and block. Even what they call long life coolant loses the additive package effectiveness after a couple of years. It will test out good for freeze points, but becomes acidic and acts like electrolyte. The acid and electricity passing through the aluminum is what causes the erosion. You can buy simple test strips you dip into the coolant. They will show whether yours is still within the safe PH zone or if it needs to be changed. Coolant is cheap. New aluminum heads are not. The Crown Vic is one of the easiest systems to drain and fill.
The 2004 Grand Marquis I have, has the same problem with leaking. I am having the intake manifold replaced today. I paid $239.00 for the manifold from Ford. Labor at Ford for changing the manifold is $850.00 plus shop fees. Other auto makers use plastic manifolds as well. Chevy used them on 2003 Silverado pickups, my son has a 2003 and it is plastic. With the way the news cars and trucks are built today, I can see shy a lot people are resorting older cars or trucks without all this crap on them. Carbs and distributers on them. They make cars today so the average person cannot or does not want to work on them.
Close to $1,200 from dealer? Life is good. For those of us with more time than money, I replaced mine with an OEM junkyard pull for $50. I took my time and cleaned everything. Also cleaned intake plenum, throttle body, and MAF.
You should be glad you got the Ford Part. Its fucking straight. Made of Re enforced nylon. Not "Plastic" Includes the brass inserts. Factory gaskets for both upper and lower. The TB gasket. I still would have replaced that water pump cross over tube and o-rings. But first clean and paint that valley with high heat paint. And if you can find them. The foam baffle that goes in there. It prevents heat build up. Stops that intake runners from making noise. Stops water from get under the intake valley. But thank God I own an all aluminum. It never had that issue.
8 years later and this video just helped me figure out how to take that stupid bracket on the back off. Thank you!
I'm glad it helped. It was rather frustrating to say the least.
Your 5 year old video helped me today. I was fighting that back bolt for the bracket. You advice of just loosening the other bolt and sliding the cover to the side was a life saver, I was stuck and cussing ford, but found your video and got the bracket off. Thanks
You are more than welcome.
That's the bolt that separates the men from the boys when doing this swap. I didn't have too much trouble with mine but it took about 15-20 minutes to break it loose on my car. I was starting to wonder if I was going to get it off but I finally got it to loosen up.
Another thing to consider is the Dorman intake has significantly shorter runner length that can affect performance. I believe Late Model Restoration made a dyno video comparing the power outputs. I don't remember exactly by how much, but the Dorman manifold made +20 hp less and much less torque.
I have the ford racing pi intake on my cougar. Its npi motor but i picked up 15 hp from 3.8k rpms to 5.6k rpms with it + a tune. Had a doorman on it at one point because it was cheap but it was even worse than the stock npi intake if im being honest.
Not my experience with the Dormen intake I put on my P71. No dyno test... But better fuel economy and more get up and GO!
@captaincobb8146 id assume something in the line of replacing the manifold was faulty then (air leak/ plugs/ injectors/ gaskets) the genuine ford intake has longer runners and makes a lot more up top. On an npi 4.6 its a gain of about 15 peak hp. On a pi motor with the doorman intake its a gain of roughly 20 peak hp because the short runners dont flow well for the pi motor. It might make more torque down low and that could also be where ur feeling an increase on butt dyno but its a terrible intake overall.
@@readylucas It's been over a year since I did the job... I had to do it due to a coolant leak when the intake broke.
Know this... I'm retired today but when I was half retired I worked at a speed shop (I did low-ends, and Scotty did the Heads).
I looked closely, comparing the Dormen to the stock intake. My conclusion was that the passageways were larger in diameter and with better flow angels on the Dorman.
They both had to go to the same place. So I didn't see longer or shorter distances.
I raise my right hand and state... I felt an increase in pep. She could even lay down more rubber [not that I do that much], just seeing.
You would love my 2007 Crown Vic P71!
I gave $3.500... with ~150,000 miles.
A week later the Trans went out [ didn't beat it].
1)Rebuilt Trans @ the best Speed Shop in the Mid-West $3,800.
2) Lifetime... Starter, Alt., Waterpump, Raderator fans with module.
3) Intake.
4) Leather front seats out of a Lincoln Mark (something), but they had the same controls.
5) Both read axels and wheel bearings.
6) W-rated tiers so I could see 170 MPH
[ It's a dream up there ]!
7) New; 150db Siren, Dashcams [F&B], Stereo Head.
No money can buy my P71.
Because it is my escape car if America goes really bad. And we are in trouble!
Thanks for reading. I enjoy writing!
Thanks for this well thought out video. I have carried around all the parts and the intake in the trunk of my car for years to do this exact fix and today my original intake with the plastic runner cracked resulting in a fountain on top of my alternator. The bracket you are talking about on the rear of the driver's side is for safety in the event of a severe frontal impact to protect the fuel lines. It possibly could prevent a fire if a driver was entrapped and unable to get away from the vehicle quickly. Surviving a horrible crash only to burn alive is not anything anybody would want to experience. I understand why everybody cuts this bracket in half because it is a major pain in the seat to remove and it must be reinstalled.
I just try to share things I learn along the way hoping I can help make it a little easier for someone else. I'm glad you liked it.
Great info. I thought it might be to protect those parts during engine install. But your explanation makes much more sense.
I have a 2003 Lincoln town car and I have to do this to mine. Thank you for all the heads up
A good refresher video. Thank you. I put an OEM manifold on a 97 Tbird back in 2004. Recently in cold weather that manifold has warped and allows a vacuum leak and a code 302. Using a Dorman aftermarket this time. Can’t drive this thing forever anyway. I’ve had the Dorman manifold working great for the last 8-9 years on a 99 crown Vic. Again, great video!
I just picked all this up today at the junk yard brand new intake with gaskets and all the bolts 26$ worked perfectly
What is the part number?
Another thing to take note of is the intakes from the trucks and vans are all-metal for the 4.6 engine. They do get more air flow for low-end torque mainly. They are taller though so I'm not sure if they'll fit under the hood without any modification.
They won’t…unless you run without a hood
I had a ‘02 crown Vic LX 63k H.O. Beautiful but the alternator actually melted the plastic intake crossover tube behind it! The dorman intake has the built in o ring style gaskets which is an updated design because the typical style factory gaskets had problems with leaking. Dorman sells the o ring gaskets by themselves if you ever need them.
Yep, which is why I went that route...not spending three days doing this again.
So you’re saying a Dorman intake is worth it ?
@@jimmymichel8159They're perfecrt if you don't mind losing 17hp/20tq. Go watch LMR's dyno comparison. It's basically a Non-PI intake.
I got my intake manifold online from rock auto it comes with the gasket plus thermostat and the new brackets for the new intake manifold it only cost me 190 took three days to get to me definitely the best place I bought parts at if I got time to wait on them
Did it hold up on you did u loose hp?
You've given the most thorough explanation about these intakes and there differences, without beating around the bush. Thank you
Most people say I talk way too much. I just blame it on my ADHD.
Also while the manifold is off, change the oring on the water pipe that comes out of the back of the water pump into the valley. They will eventually leak.
Smart man. I have a 2005 crown victory but my original manifold had the aluminum coolant runner & it cracked on the driver's side in the back, so I (being cheap) went to the local auto parts store "not naming names" & bought a replacement, mine was $220.00, but it lasted 5 months & I just replaced it again tonight. With the same one only because of warranty. If I replace it again I'm gonna say the hell with the warranty & buy OEM next go around.
Unfortunately I've gotten quite good at it, I can have it off in about an hour & then back on in another hour and a half.
Please tell me you live in south Florida and can help lol I have a 2005 crown Vic also p71 leaking from the intake manifold .
@@uneducatedEntrepreneur sorry I'm a long ways from South Florida.
@@uneducatedEntrepreneuryeah just changed mine, Florida sun blaring on me. It was taught
I have a 2007 f150 4.6.. these still leak at the front, the 2 little D shape gaskets under the aluminum coolant runner.. I got lucky I only have to replace the gaskets.. there's a 50/50 chance the manifold intake cracks where the D gaskets sits. Mine was leaking on the left side under temperature setting unit ... caused ignition coil #3 to misfire..
I was able to find a PI intake on an '09 Crown Vic Taxi in a junkyard, took it off myself and paid only $40 to fix the coolant leak and a nice little power boost. Bought new gaskets online and the modern intake fit my '98 Lincoln Towncar like a glove.
Chris did you have any issues with the water pipe that sits in the valley of the motor? From what I understand the pi intake sits lower in the valley and will hit that tube coming from the back of the water pump. The PI models seem to have the pipe routed more along the side of the valley rather than in the bottom.
mrelectron62 yeah luckily I remembered to grab the different coolant pipe off the donor car too. There's also a threaded bolt end that was sticking right out of the top of the block on my car that had no obvious way to remove it, so I broke it off with a hammer. It was apparently the engine shake sensor or something like that, hasn't seemed to affect my car in any way. After a couple tries I was able to make the new intake fit the way it should.
Good deal Chris, I got mine from some one who was going to install it on his mustang but never did. I wound up using part of the mustang tube and part from my Lincoln and cobbling them together with some 3/4th in heater hose since the bend at the back of the motor did not match up with my heater core inlet.
mrelectron62 Haha clever. Silicone is also a really good friend for DIY car stuff too. I used it to get a good seal on the water pump exit nozzle because it didn't have any rubber O rings. Good job 👍🏼
great video
Double check your part number when you purchase the intake manifold. The issue I had is they sold me a doorman 615175, I needed a doorman 615178 on the surface they basically look the same, that doesn't allow me to properly secure the passenger side aluminum crossover.
That's good information. Thank you. Since I used an OEM manifold I had no idea there were more than one Dorman part number.
Great video. Nice and clear explanation. Thank you. I love these cars.
Thank you very much. I'm glad it helped. They are good cars. I still have that car as of January 2024.
I just got a quote in st. Louis from a ford dealer for the upgraded intake, alternator brackets and gaskets for $307.00 I'll be using this one to save myself from aftermarket crap.
1:25 that, is the sole reason for me replacing the intake manifold on my 99 Mustang. I thought I could just buy a new hose and coupling but apparently not.
Same here man that’s the problem I have
The bracket that's on the back of the intake manifold and cylinder head is for the install of the engine at the factory on the assembly line.
I JUST DELETED IT ONCE I REPLACED MINE
I agree but also ford installed on '02 town cars a "deflection plate" on the front and rear of the motor to push the motor down and under the cabin in a head on frontal collision. Beware removing "extra" parts, just my 2 $
Good job buddy.... I have a 2000 grand marquis and used the dorman product. I should have purchased the 2002 or newer to get the increase coolant volume. My car had 100,000 miles before I had any problems and hope to get another 100k. Next time I will be sure to post a video as well.
I got an OEM intake manifold from from a junkyard for my a 2011 Crown Vic for $38. It was a little dirty and slimy inside. After cleaning for 10 mins it was like a brand new part. I think Ford wanted like $375 for one.
They want $570 for them now in 2023
I Bought a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquies with the same Problem Spent the day Sunday n Removed the old Intake getting the new one on thursday or friday pretty easy so far and also will get all 8 coils while it is apart. great video.
I got a question about my grand marquis it’s a 1999 and I have the intake manifold off and the door hose at the end towards the transmission there’s a hole that a plastic plug was coving I can’t find the part or name
I took that coolant hose out and replaced it with normal flexible coolant tubing, it saved me alot of time and money vs buying a PI coolant hose, it works just fine
My car got used on Scotty Kilmer's youtube channel; It's a 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis with 57K miles as of today and I got it as my first car. I'm not a gambler and just bought the new manifold since my car has the 100% plastic one and I wanted to know if the new one has any known problems?
Make sure the aluminum runner on the intake is tite, mine were loose so now I've got to redo my intake and its a doorman...it bolts to underneath the front of the intake..other than that take your time and be really clean, I've seen ur car on Scott's channel, nice ride take care of it...
01 Marquis 130k miles. Will replacing the OE manifold WITH a new OE manifold increase horsepower? Or will the doorman increase HP?
Go with the factory piece..with the dorman you will give up some power
What is the point of that rear bracket? Way too heavy duty to hold some wires. Maybe to protect the fragile parts under it during engine install?
Loved your video and the whole explanation of it. Thank you very much.
I'm glad I could help. Some people tell me I talk too much. I blame it on my ADHD.
my moms 2001 marquis is leaking coolant below back of engine to the ground infront of oil pan back by bell housing. 78,000 miles.
see no leaks by heater hoses or nipple coming from manifold. none in front by thermostat.
can't identify where leak originates. don't want to get a new intake manifold just to pull old one off to see the hose/pipe under manifold is the leaker.
i did also see small puddle below the muffler pipe after car sits from running for about 15 minutes.
how did you id where your leak was from?
suggestions?
thank you so much
I used a pressure tester.
The nipple still breaks off on the revised intake. They should have put metal in the back too but they only did the front.
I'd rather the entire manifold be made out of aluminum.
I got a 2004 Grand Marquis LS I was that these cars have that problem after looking at your video I'm glad they change the part from plastic so my car has the new update part because they change design in 2002 thank you for your video assistance.
It definitely wasn't one of Ford's better ideas.
@@JohnDoesGarage I gotta question so I just did a tune up on my 08 grand marquis and when I took the boot off there was coolant on top of my spark plug on cylinder number 5 I was gonna go ahead and change the gaskets does my car just have gaskets or do I have to replace the whole intake manifold?
Yea the connector for the old heater hose was pressure fitted, the o ring gasket would slip or wear out and make the engine smoke, the new one is actually intergrated.
I just installed the new intake from 1Aauto and it has the gaskets integrated. Anyway, I noticed some bad wear on the rear driver side water jacket so I used some gasket maker before mounting the new intake hoping it would prevent a leak. Well, got it all back together and after a pretty good drive noticed a fine spray leak at that rear driver side corner pushing through the gasket maker product. Now wondering if I remove the intake to repair the water jacket runner, will all the independent gaskets be compromised that are built in? The new intake cost $107 so maybe just have to get another one...Please let me know your thoughts on this issue. I originally priced local shops and they quoted about $1200 for this job parts and labor. Another learning lesson here. Should have made sure the surface was repaired but wondering best way to repair it going forward... Thanks for comments recommendations.
Dorman and clones with integrated gaskets suck hard. If on a budget, OEM junkyard pull is a good option. Inspect mating surface for cracks. Also remove crossover and inspect gaskets and channel on top side for expansion due to coolant crystallization.
I am in the process of changing my alternator and wiring harness, I noticed something black plastic behind the alternator that's breaking apart, now I know what it is .. I'm not going to change the intake manifold now but I know I will have to very soon.. Dam!
I am in the process of replacing the intake manifold its leaking the black plastic around it is breaking apart.
I bought a new OEM intake manifold ot comes by a new black plastuc cover😁😁. Am just confused on using the gasket with the ultra black or only gaskit
Kinda strange. I have a 2000 E150 with the 4.6. And it has the cast front crossover. I am now having to work on a leak in the front heater hose connector nipple. It has a pinpoint hole in it. Crazy.
How about the thermostat area. They all brake there too.
They all brake there? They stop there? Or do they break?
the lip that gaskets sits in will Crack an break in pieces .. I found a chunk of it in the heater tube under intake when doing a pi swap on my 96 mustang.
Did I fuck up? I replaced it but got dirt in the injector holes, cleaned as best I can and put back together. It ran fine for like 10 min, than injectors started leaking, replaced orings and the leaking stopped but now as soon as it starts it dies.
After checking under the hood mines is full aluminum I guess the previous owner already experience the leak at an earlier stage and got it replaced I’m at 135k and no leaks just might need a clutch replacement in another 10,k but it’s a pretty solid car I beat up every weekend
That part you cut off that mounts to the back of the head on the driver side is to keep the wires away from the heat so they don't catch fire or melt together and short out
Seriously? I didn't put any bolts back in place back there now I'm worried
I know this is a year old but possibly I got a 06 and I just went with the new intake it's not that expensive as this guy in the video was saying not even bother with the new alternator bracket didn't seem necessary and I also have Uncle that's a form of mechanic of these beasts and he advises it's no big deal but is it really
I'm not really understanding this guy I'm not totally to the end of the video yet but did he double up on gaskets like from the non OEM package all the way to using the OEM gaskets
All wires were secure with no risk of melting.
All I know about the price is what I paid at the Ford dealer.
Thank you for the video. Blessings to you.
Dorman intake was fine - don't over think it.
Replace ur plugs and wires - if any of the plug holes are wet just do it.
Pull the fuel rail- two seconds to disconnect.
Nothing was too hard to get to - don't worry simple tools can do the whole repair.
Save u a ton of dough on parts and labor at least here in NJ.
Junkyard pull is better than Dorman.
I'll be trying the ATP intake from Rock Auto. It has the brass inserts and a limited lifetime for the same price as the Dorman.
Did you have to buy a separate kit the bolt because I bought one at a dealership and it didn’t come with the brackets the bolt thermostat the kit or anything
I had the option of buying just the manifold for the kit with the new alternator bracket and the longer bolts for the thermostat. I bought mine from the local Ford dealer.
My 06 had the aluminum intake which also leaks after 70k miles.
The Dorman intake is now $380 bucks.
They also use o-ring style gaskets instead of the Ford flat ones....I'd chance that rather than doing this whole job over.
Labor states five hours....try three days.
How do I replaced the littlePipe that's behind the water pump
does the nipple on the back of the intake that goes to the heater core still break on this new intake ?
As of this reply I still own that car and it is working flawlessly. I haven't head about the new design failing like the all plastic manifold.
I have a 2007 f150 fx2 with a 4.6l. I believe the old intake was aluminum. I didn't remove it. The plastic intake is off and wouldn't seal. So I found an old aluminum intake with lower and upper still attached. About to attempt getting it on. Any advice? Oh, the guy that was working on the truck( so called mechanic) was using grommets I believe. I found one. 2007 didn't use grommets did they?
A stock 2007 manifold should be the new design with the aluminum coolant runner and the rest plastic. If it was all aluminum it has been changed. I think the truck manifolds were all aluminum but are taller and you can't close the hood. The gaskets for the stock manifolds should be available. I hope I understood your question.
@JohnDoesGarage Thanks for responding. The upper is aluminum and the lower is plastic
That bracket was use to move the engine around at the factory.
I am going with the Dorman. The reason I am not worried about stripping out the coil mounting nuts is because my truck has 200,000 miles now, and only on its 2nd set of plugs and coils. I doubt the truck will outlive another plug and coil change.
It'll survive, have faith
Also loses 20HP...it will work, but it's poorly designed and may not last longer than 2-3 years and as stated power loss
Dorman is for flippers. OEM is for owners.
The demon bracket is a crash bracket in case of a front end collision you don't end up with a engine in your lap.
Take off the windshield wiper assembly to get to the bolts in the back you need not completely remove the assembly
Rear bracket is to protect fuel rail to prevent fire.
What’s the name of that plug that covers that whole towards the back. It has some yellow paint over the top of it.
Valley-hole block plug is how I've found it advertised, part no. f3az-6c070-aa
always check the coolant passages and plastic parts. tend to crack
I have a question about the intake manifold. When I put everything back together, on the passenger side, the intake manifold gasket is sticking out right next to the egr valve I cannot find what goes there to cover it.
The EGR valve is on the side of the throttle body housing. With the manifold installed you should only be able to see the edge of the gasket in the small gap between the intake and the head. If it is the actual gasket you see protruding then the gasket is not located correctly. The EGR tube attaches to the EGR valve and there is a gasket between the EGR valve and the throttle body housing. I hope I understood you correctly.
What is the Ford kit part number? What website did you purchase the part from? I need to replace mine ASAP Thank you great informative video.
I bought mine from the local Ford dealer.
Change your waterpump when doing this.
Eh
I did this job right after I bought the car so I did change the water pump, belt, tensioner and idler pulleys, plugs and coils. It had a couple of bad coils.
I have a 4.6 with an all aluminum intake manifold. Does it use the same gasket?
Supposedly these are rare?
The part is discontinued by Ford. The only thing available is either used or aftermarket. The Dorman part has a separate seal around each port where the OEM part is a complete separate gasket that covers all four ports on each side.
I bought the last gasket for the Aluminum Manifold about 5 years ago
Glad this is on here. Thank you man!!
You are more than welcome.
A show us the back sike of you manifold. Does your manifold have pressed gaskets
The gaskets are on the core support. They are black with blue seals.
Hello, I'm Brian Shelton. I've got 98 crown Victoria lx, fore hundred sixty two thousand miles on my car. My original intake manifold nipple coming off the intake going into the firewall to the heater coil. In the am I'm gonna try to change this myself, those gaskets you used its a whole piece gasket? Don't have to trim these things? I'm getting my gaskets from Ford dealer tomorrow am. I might have more questioners soon!!! I watched some video's of yours, the fuel pump surely did help me out a lot. Only took 9 hours. But it's still going strong. Thanks for the videos.
I spent numerous hours trying to find "someone" "anyone" that would spend a minute describing that pain in the arse bracket mounted to the right of the throttle housing. Finally it was made known there are (2) 13mm bolts/nuts down between the firewall and engine...to remove to get off a 2nd bracket/plate but doesn't show that plate or "if" it were fastened back in place once loose. Still appreciate knowing what I have to tackle next. On a Lincoln town car I've had to lay on top of the motor just to reach down to get the first of the 2 13mm nuts. What poor design
I have a 2007 Lincoln Town Car and that metal plate on the driver side back fire wall is one useless piece of crap I swear to God I hate that fucker. I am in the process of changing mine out now and that bracket was a POS.
I have a 2000 Town Car - I find it easier to just remove the wiper assembly and cowling to get to thous bracket bolts! After spending a couple hours trying to get to thous bolts !
Thanks for the video. I don’t know if anyone can answer this for me. Do you add the gasket silicon on the heads or on top of the gaskets? I will be doing this soon.
The only place I used any sealer was around the holes for the water jacket.
Can I cut the pipe and install a hose with clamps on the pipe to the connector at the firewall
If you're talking about the EGR tube I'm pretty sure it would get too hot for a rubber hose so I wouldn't try it.
I have a 2001 grand marquise and mine just turned 77,000 original miles,I too have this plastic manifold no leaks yet.???
That is about the mileage on my car when it started leaking.
I did this job on my 2007 P71 cop car. I too will drive it until I die. Two things...
@3:17 while talking about the brass inserts. If you know how to follow the threads in a plastic hole, by first inserting the screw and then turning it backward until the screw falls into the lead original thread, the threads will last ~ forever.
@6:15 I just got rid of that stupid bracket and got a screw that was the same as all of the rest. That bracket is about the stupidest thing I've ever seen and I wasn't about to be stupid enough to put it back on.
Nice job cleaning up the head!
I still have it and it is January 2024 as of this reply. It will be in another video soon if all goes according to plans.
@@JohnDoesGarage I live in the Salt Belt, so my P71 is in storage for the winter.
Nice video.... Ford tech mackaluko and 1a auto parts did videos on the removal and installation of the intake manifolds...
Brian is an amazing resource. I have learned much from watching his videos.
You can reuse the bolts if you go back oem
I having a hard time finding the right gaskets for my f-150 4.6l 2 valve . Every one I have found including the dealer the little tabs on the wrong side the dealer told me to just cut them off. Well that's wasn't good advice.. how about selling me the right part .my motor has the P.I Heads and it's a Windsor. And the gaskets that came off of it where larger than the little ones there telling me that goes on there. I also had the problem finding the harmonic balancer. The ones they keep giving are small the one that came off was much larger. I ended up ordering one for a f-250 that fit perfectly.. my truck was assembled in Kansas City. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.. like said I have talked to a lot of people including the dealer. No help. I did run it to a guy here on the tube.. that says you have a left handed gasket with the tabs on the inside. And a right hand gasket outside mine is the outside .. ????
I just finished up, taking my buddies manifold off... ( 2000 LS). that's where my good luck ended... I found oil on the plugs (coil pack side) what should I do now? also finding sludge in the lower manifold coolant ports; more so on the drivers side.. my question is what should I do now... I have read that I need to replace the valve cover gasket and seals. Is this true? Also will I have to remove the master cylinder and booster? That part sort of scares me as I have never done one... Once I got everything out I did find that removing the windshield wiper assembly and motor gave the access to those rear bracket bolts... note: I checked inside ports ( had a good bit of char but didn't see any oil inside them or burned intake valves.. Good sign?
I have an all aluminum intake on my 2005 E150 van with a 4.6. Do you recommend reusing the aluminum intake or should I buy the one you used in the video? I'm inclined to want to hold on to the aluminum intake
Stay with aluminum. Replace gasket. Apply RTV to both sides of coolant passage gaskets.
Some people are saying the all aluminum manifold is too tall and the hood won't close on a car. I don't know that myself, that's just what some people are saying in the comments.
It's bot stated in any yt vids I've watched on this subject, but I found, after struggling with that stud/bolt in the back, it's MUCH easir to get to if you just remove th big plastic wiper motor cowl assembly. it takes a lot less time in the long run to do that.
Also back of the block is an inspection plug grab on only can get it from ford not a have to its a fly wheel inspection plug but it's like 5 bucks part number ford is f3az-6c070-aa 4.6 gt mustang
My 2004 crown vic LX intake manifold lasted me 172k miles. Literally had to replace it over the weekend.
Damn I'm at 155 000 miles on my 04 Lx and don't know if it ever was changed hope it will last through winter.
I got 226K out of mine on a 2002. I feel lucky…lol
Thanks for the info, this issue can be confusing.
Replacement ones leak too or even the 03 to 04 leak too.
I used an OEM intake manifold and it is still running today with no leads. It is 2/21/2024 as of this post.
Also I don't bother anymore disconnecting the fuel lines from the fuel rails. I just keep the rails off to the side. Saves time and not really in the way of installing new intake.
I’ve done well over 100 intake swaps and have never disconnected the fuel lines
the dorman part with no gaskets beefs up the plastic below the bypass tube, far less prone to failure! the bolts are cheesy, but the intake runners seal great,and wont leak fluid like the gasket will, no absorbion!
What gasket manufacturer does you recommend? Pel-Pro?
I do like Fel-Pro gaskets.
What is the part number on the box of the Ford part?
That box is long gone and I did a quick search, it appears the OEM manifold has been discontinued by Ford.
Thank you so much! You answered my question about that bastard heat shield bracket! I’m gonna do what you did. Thanks!!
I have a 98 Grand Marquis, with 79,000 miles. I'd like to get ahead of it like you did. It's not leaking or anything. But what's the part number of the Ford intake manifold I need? Also where would be the best place to get it?
I ordered mine directly from Ford but I think it has since been discontinued. I'd call you local Ford dealer to find out for sure.
When you have the intake off it's the best and easiest time to replace valve cover gaskets!
Where did you put the ultra black? Did you put it on the gasket and then place the gasket down? Or did you spread it around the cylinder hearts and then lay the gasket on top?
I applied it directly to the head.
Is it necessary to apply that ultra black gaskit paste with the gaskit?
I am doing this job on my grand marquis.
I just used it around the passages between the water jacket and the coolant crossover pipe.
what is the website to order this factory new manifold with metal bolt holes for coils please...??
I bought it directly from the Ford dealer.
Can someone please tell me where the coolant temperature sensor is?
It screws into the top of the aluminum coolant runner on the passenger side. In the video you can see on the right side as you're facing the car where the thermostat goes and the threaded hole for the temperature sensor is on the left side.
Great video. thank you.
I am seeing some 'wetness' in my 97 grand marquis spark plug well #5. I initially thought it might be oil (based on the dark color and 'gooey-iness' of it).
But, now I am wondering if its coolant seeping out of intake manifold. I have several pictures at my google photos page:
photos.app.goo.gl/dpDjp3fGaQ9Pombn7
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THIS IS COOLANT, OR OIL, IN MY SPARK PLUG WELL?
OR HOW I CAN TELL?
What did you figure out what was wrong with your car
i know i very late in responding but coolant is made of ethelyn glycol a type of sugar alcohol it smells sweet and tastes sweet too but don't lick it its causes almost immediate liver failure if you ingest too much
Clean your rain guard ( plastic housing right below windshield ) and make sure it drains properly.
@@trulyblessed8767 sorry I missed your question. The problem was a tiny leak from the intake manifold that was seeping out coolant, that made its way past the spark plug boot, and into the well that the spark plug sits in, thus shorting the current, and causing the misfire. I put a new intake manifold on, which fixed the misfire.
@@m.n.3490i got the same, from the passenger side head to intake manifold gasket. I'm pulling the manifold off to see what's going on underneath.
Thank you for this video. May I ask you how much this intake replacement job will cost - parts plus labor? Someone in my area sells 1999 Lincoln Continental LS priced $1700 and I am just wondering if this would be worth.
the intake manifold is $221.00 at O'Reilly Auto parts the labor is about $300.00 for a total of $521.00 before tax
I don't even use the alternator bracket lol. Just the two front bolts on the block. Never a problem
I don't have that kind of luck. If I tried something like that I promise you it would bite me in the ass at the worst possible time.
@@JohnDoesGarageI can't promise you it won't break either, but I do know I've been without mine for at least 6 or 7 years now.
Hi thanks for sharing. when the intake manifold fails does the car start to leak antifreeze?
Yes.
Ford Racing intake is the same part. I just paid $260 for one brand new on Ebay
that's a crash bracket. if you were to have just the right front end impact you'll break your fuel rail without that bracket. but yeah I definitely wagered not keeping it.
I debated whether to modify the bracket or just toss it, but decided to keep it. For about 30 minutes worth of easy work you can remove the windshield wiper cowling and pivot arm assembly (six ph screws and six-8mm bolts) and then that crash bracket stud and wire bracket that is bolted to the head is right out in the open where you can see it and get tools on it with no problem.
I ended up cutting the back half of the bracket on my 2000 town car.
HELP-----im looking at a 1998 w 95k soon...can you please tell me HOW to diagnose if she needs an IM or this one is worn? Thanks..
All these cars, especially the 98-03 will need the IM replaced at one point or another. When it will happen is anyone's guess. Look for any leaks, smell of coolant, steam coming from the IM area (Coolant hitting the block).
I also change both valve cover gaskets on mine since it was so easy to do with the intake gone. I used the cheap Dorman was not impressed. My car is 10 years old in the water ports both sides or eroded like yours was as well bizarre
That happens from electrolysis. Only way to prevent is change the coolant every couple of years. Never was a real issue till they all went with aluminum heads and block. Even what they call long life coolant loses the additive package effectiveness after a couple of years. It will test out good for freeze points, but becomes acidic and acts like electrolyte. The acid and electricity passing through the aluminum is what causes the erosion. You can buy simple test strips you dip into the coolant. They will show whether yours is still within the safe PH zone or if it needs to be changed. Coolant is cheap. New aluminum heads are not. The Crown Vic is one of the easiest systems to drain and fill.
I have 02 grand marquis does 02 have this problem or is it rare I have 106k
The 2004 Grand Marquis I have, has the same problem with leaking. I am having the intake manifold replaced today. I paid $239.00 for the manifold from Ford. Labor at Ford for changing the manifold is $850.00 plus shop fees. Other auto makers use plastic manifolds as well. Chevy used them on 2003 Silverado pickups, my son has a 2003 and it is plastic.
With the way the news cars and trucks are built today, I can see shy a lot people are resorting older cars or trucks without all this crap on them. Carbs and distributers on them. They make cars today so the average person cannot or does not want to work on them.
Close to $1,200 from dealer? Life is good. For those of us with more time than money, I replaced mine with an OEM junkyard pull for $50. I took my time and cleaned everything. Also cleaned intake plenum, throttle body, and MAF.
@@encinobalboa I wish I can replace mine myself, dealer quote me 850 too like fuck
@@encinobalboa it may be fair but you can damn near buy new car
@@FuckTheFedMayne My car is not worth putting in $1,200 but for $50, I'm all in. If you have the space, time, and energy, the job is not difficult.
@@encinobalboa I got you I ain't mechanically inclined but we will figure sun out 850 too much
You should be glad you got the Ford Part. Its fucking straight. Made of Re enforced nylon. Not "Plastic" Includes the brass inserts. Factory gaskets for both upper and lower. The TB gasket.
I still would have replaced that water pump cross over tube and o-rings. But first clean and paint that valley with high heat paint. And if you can find them. The foam baffle that goes in there. It prevents heat build up. Stops that intake runners from making noise. Stops water from get under the intake valley. But thank God I own an all aluminum. It never had that issue.
Quick question what did to use to clean the residue off the block from the intake manifold gasket . And where did you apply the Silicone afterwards?
I cleaned the surfaces with a Scotch brite. I put the sealer around the coolant passages only.
What is the ford part number?
Just a quick aside, I changed a dorman to a Ford Racing on my 03 GT & gained 10 seat of the pants horsepower.