I see you are kicking into "I will find this problem" mode by your determination. Good for you. I assume you looked for TSBs or on a mechanic's BBS to provide some sort of clue.
I hate vehicles like that. They just pull your brain matter apart from the inside. As a quality technician, you know there is a reason and a fix, but often times your information from the factory is limited and you are left with questions you have to guess on. Not only that, but the engineers at Ford might well know about the problem but unless it shows up enough times in the field you wont see a TSB on it. I think most channels wouldn't show us this much frustration and work. Thank you for sharing what you have actually gone through on this one. I know on Fords the ABS module will often shut off power to a sensor if it has a code, but in video one you were able to read signals with the scope so this one is a real head scratcher. I'm looking forward to part 3.
I had one and I had all the signals at the ABS module while back probing, was about to buy a new ABS but decided to do a drag test on the female end and found that the little pins had been spread apart and were not grabbing the ABS module pins. I removed the pins and corrected the issue and all was good. I now do more drag testing now due to that discovery.
I had a f150 with the same issue left front wheel if you jumpers another sensor from the vehicle it was happy sensors read like 300 ohms or 300k I don't Remer but several aftermarket ones read like 2mega ohms ordered one ford they sent 2 of them for some reason one of them read 300 and the other one 2m they were the same part number the 300 one fixed it hope this helps
I thought he tried waving the magnet in front of the sensor and it didn’t work, but the front ones did. Maybe the “new” sensor should be plugged into the rear and a magnet waved in front of it again and see what happens.
It just dawned on me I recently had a Jeep Patriot brought from another shop. They had replaced ABS sensors wheel bearings ABS module. Bunch of stuff. Turned out it was pin fitment at the wheel speed sensor.
This is Crazy! Really looking forward to the conclusion! I can't seem to find where the configuration data is kept, I would assume the BCM, I wonder if there are customizable options using IDS or even Forscan. The one good thing that comes from these cars is you don't get burned again😀
Well Jake this is a good one. Guess all our expert comments didn’t HELP. Lol. I hope for your sake pt3 comes to a successful conclusion. You are so correct when you say the electronics in these cars are becoming so difficult to troubleshoot and fix. Half the crap you don’t even need. Can you imagine having a car built in the 60’s or early 70’s the biggest electrical problem I ever had was change a headlight or a set of points. I sure as hell never needed a car to park itself or monitor my wheel speed. 😂 see you in Pt3. Artie
You got yourself a real ball buster Jake but on the plus side it makes a great video for other technicians with the same problem I know you want to take one of those modules apart we all want to see that tomorrow 😂
This is helping me out in tracing wire harness resistance. I have a 2008 e'tec outboard with a wire harness or pin fitment issue. Unbelievable bends and tight quarters. Great videos. Your doing good. Just a fyi to go a little slower how you are setting up your test light or osicilliscope connections.
You are doing a fine job explaining what you are doing and the process involved. Hope part 3 gets it done, looking fwd to seeing it. Have you attempted to check wave form with the new OEM parts like you have earlier? I'm wondering if it is possible that someone used forscan and deleted the rear sensors or attempted to do so. Also, wondering if the previous (ABS module) parts thrown at it were for the park assist model vehicles or if someone attempted to program the car with the assist option when the car isn't equipped with it.
Ivan over on PHAD had a similar issue once, and I believe the issue was an aftermarket hub assembly in which the wheel speed sensor hole was incorrectly drilled and the sensor could not get a reading. He changed it back to an OEM hub assembly and it corrected the issue 🤷🏻♂️
Yeah that was just a lack of signal due to incorrect gap on the Subaru... This Ford is a pure module-sensor incompatibility, since the module sets a hard fault as soon as sensor is plugged in :)
Plug the front loom into the rear sensor with rear sensor installed and see if hub is good. Could also plug rear loom into front sensor to check rear loom
You're doing what I'd do. There's one question left: is the ABS module the right one for the car? I know you have two modules, but I think we're dealing with an auction car. The first module could have been the wrong one and the second one was ordered based off the first one's part number. Another thought: have you tried a different scanner? This one might be unable to reset. Until the code is cleared, the ABS may be refusing to look at the rear sensors.
I'd install the "wrong sensors" for the other system type to see if the module is incorrectly programmed to the other type system. Edit: you said it just after i typed it 🙃 Edit 2: well, that's frustrating ☹️ I've been there, these sort of cases have made me rethink my career choices 🙄
Mind boggling, Jake! I would have checked the polarity in the connector, once Ford went to the trouble of marking it, but that would be only for peace of mind. It's possible that both ABS modules have the same fault, if it's a frequent weakness, or bad design, in the electronics. Ah, the suspense for Part 3...
Agreed. I remember a DiagnoseDan video where multiple Bosch crank sensors were wired backwards. Only knew when he scoped them and had a known good to compare.
wow what a killer fault . not much left mate . only the module or duff programming . excellent due diligence don’t think you left any stone unturned on that one . 2 dodgy pump maybe. i have seen 3 modules i pulled from stores once faulty but pretty much from the same batch number . man i look forward to seeing this one through. trouble is you seem like me once you get at it you just want to know what it is , even if you invest a bucket of time in it 🤣🤣🤣
Is that drum brakes in the rear by chance? If so the tone rings do not come on new drums and may be why both sides do not read speed. Interesting case for sure with the fault incorrect component installed. And you are correct the ABS module monitors a very low current on MRE sensors. 14 MA is the typical current that is measured
Have you tried the gray sensors? I don’t know if this car has parking sensors or not but the speed sensors will interchange with the same plug. Just a thought.
Ill admit i havent seen part one. Have you tried junkyard sensors? I've had catalog errors at the dealer or the vendors that makes the sensor for Ford couldve made a mistake. Beyond that it would be cool to scope front and rear at key on just to compare
Not sure if this helps but can you rule out that the ABS module that is said to be the oringinal is the factory one that came with the car? I ask because I had a Ford Fusion that I changed the ABS module because of the spongy brake pedal from a salvage yard. I got a wrong programing code from the module. I was told you could not program the modules. I tried to edit some of the options using FORSCAN at the time and gave up and ended up splitting the module off the valve body and putting the original module back on the new valve body and back in the car. No more codes. So it was definitely a programming and options issue.
Can you trust the wheel hubs, the magnetic tape? I had trouble with 2 aftermarket hubs that sensors couldn't read the magnetic tape. Replaced them with a different brand, but not OEM and still works after a year and a half! I am sure you'll figure out this madness!
I get these and I jump the rear speed sensor signal thru a long extension and feed the front harness. Clear codes and cycle the key.last but not least a total reset and remove bot battery terminals and connect the termina togetherl to hard reset the system by drawing down memory saving capacitor
OK, my 2 cents, I see the diag is not showing the speed while driving in Topdon. I have to take it you hooked up at the module to check signal from front to get signal value and then one to rear circuit to see the signal is at least there. And at that point if it is there it would have to be the module. My next craziness is being you have the original module, did you open to check for any greenies or any obvious burns or caps blown. YOU GOT THIS. Bad part is electrical parts cannot be returned if the bag was opened.
I had an escape that had a similar issue. The wrong sensors were installed. Does this vehicle have Automatic parking? They way to tell is the sensors are either gray or black depending on the options the car has. Hth. Curious to see what you find out in part 3!!
You showed that the module correctly senses when the circuit is open or shorted. The question is how does the module decide that the sensor is incorrect? (You bypassed the wiring which should eliminate noise or resistance/current issues.) Also does the module have some drive cycle criteria for resetting the code? [If so, the bypass trick won't work and you'd have to prove that the wiring is good during a drive - no noise or connectivity problems.]
My hypothesis with that is it sees two signals for the parking assist wss. One is going to be low and the other high vehicle stationary. One hall lags the other, so it knows what direction the wheel is going. The non assist wss has only one signal. Would be interesting to see what the MR dual sensor signal looks like on that vehicle. It knows the correct sensor is installed when the vehicle is driven judging by no self test being performed on the scope capture when dtc are cleared and reread and since both types of sensors have been installed. The fact it flags the code after reset probably means the module isn't coded. The module has to be coded through IVD because the module isn't flashable. My guess is when you do an IVD config for wss ( option not available on topdon?). The module looks at the configuration data in the BCM to determine if park assist is optioned. Could the BCM have been changed? You would think the dealership has tried the IVD config for wss already. Can't wait to see the conclusion on this one.
@@Discretesignals If the module has inputs for the parking assist sensors, what if you clone (jumper) the sensor wire onto them? (In other words let the module see two identical inputs for each sensor.)
I still can't help but think that wrong parts were used in the previous repairs were the wrong ones. ABS Module, Wheel bearing hubs, and maybe sensors. You mentioned earlier about models with Park assist and without.
I think that someone rewired the plug and connected the pins to the wrong place at the abs plug. That could make sense, cause it sees the wron pins have been used to rear abs. I think if there is 2 diffrent sensor wariations, there is 2 diffrent pin location at the plug at the reat sensors. best way to know is to check if wire harne has a same part number with parking aid and without the parking aid.
I am thinking programming. Was the car ever wrecked? I am not that familiar with Fords, is there a way to check as built sheet? How about the GEM module programming? The ABS module is not controlling park assist and stability functions.... Wondering if some other module is telling the ABS module to feed it data it is not a le to do
Oscilloscope for transient voltage in circuits with them disconnected from abs module I fought freightliner for rear sensors to until I unpinned them from bulkhead with truck sleeping then waking up found voltage on wires overplayed them and solved the problem
is the coding in other modules correct,??? is one of them looking for "Self Park" bit of a long shot, this has to be a coding issue. was rthe replacement abs module software copied from original module, also copying software fault. Good Luck.
Any source of RF (or a circuit that has something oscillating that shouldn't be) can definitely effect magnetic speed sensors. That said, I know you've had to replace modules that were replaced before. Having to replace the same module twice is the thing that nightmares are made of.
I would have guessed the parking assist sensor fixed it, after seeing the original had the same codes and you verify wiring. But in verifying wiring, did you verify the individual conductors are the same from module to rear? Since there was some rear end work done. Possibilities are endless.... two bad modules, common problem and without a known good module, no way to be sure. I can go on and on..... Just like your effing parts to this story! 😉 Part 3 better have the answer. lol
Parking assist sensors? But the abs module is reporting wrong wheel speed sensors. You need to just focus on that. Parking assistance has nothing to do with that
Time to get a known good waveform on those rear sensors from your friend (that got you the as built data) and compare to the ones that are missing from your first video.
Who said that? ABS It interprets the signal correctly. I doubt this unit. I think you should take a look at some of the units that require the speed of the car to operate.
What a messed up repair dang it must be the module but having two dead ones is suspect so something may be killing the module as soon as a new one is installed but who knows maybe it is just a far out coincidence I'm looking forward to seeing what this turns out to be in the end.
I'd disconnect the rear sensors and jumper wire the front sensors to the rear sensors inputs to the module to see if I begin to see mph on the rear on the scanner regardless of dtcs. Why does my computer not report this data? And do the opposite, rear sensors in front inputs.
I have seen Ford download the incorrect programming to a brand new srs module on a 22 bronco, as you know the stuff is selected automatically by the ford tool going by the vin number , there's incorrect information on their server. It happened at the Ford dealer when they tried to program the first srs module themselves, they called us in to do it "right" but my documentation proved it was internally fords mistake.
I said in the first videos comments already that the ABS module has the wrong software in it. I am surprised he hasn't already checked the exact software variant and version of the ABS. My money is still on this.
@Google_Is_Evil I'm not sure I know a way around the Ford tool choosing the software by the vin number. I know for fact they do make mistakes but iono how to fix it
@autodiagyt well damn. I'm really wanting to know the answer here lol. You've verified all wiring is intact, if there's no programming is looking like a module, what year is this car ? Also does it have the auto park system? The earlier years worked but they damn sure didn't have it figured out yet
The circuit needs to be load-tested, not ohm-tested. Plug a test light into the sensor end, power-up the module end, check for TSBs, and check for pin fitment at the module.
there is a signal in the oscilloscope but no signal in the scan tool that means something wrong with the module. Maybe the module needs programming or buy a new one
Guess if you’re in desperation could take your buddy’s module off his car the electronic portion. Maybe they’re not the original module? It’s a car lot probably lying the original module went bye bye years ago. Maybe try get one exact part number from wrecking yard
I feel like your testing on the wiring is good and don’t think it’s a wiring concer at this point. I would run as-built data on the module. If that doesn’t work contact your local ford parts and ask about the part numbers. Maybe the original module you have isn’t actually the original to the car. Have them compare your engineering numbers as well. Let’s see what info that turns up. I could advise more after we have some of those answers.
Yea but if it now reads the front for the rear and sets the code you know it has to be in the module. Also if the module was cloned then it's possible it's a software that got put over. I'm with you highly unlikely 2 modules same codes
Have you tried changing the polarity at the sensor? Last ditch effort other than both modules being bad in the same way which also seems like a far reach.
I was hoping it was the calibration of the ABS module. You look a bit beat up by this car for sure. I remembered Paul aka Scanner Danner having a car with a wheel speed sensor issue video possibly in the last year. It was an odd issue to that threw him for a loop. Can’t wait for the next video. Hopefully, it doesn’t end up with lit tube sock in the filler neck. 🤣🤣
Hmm I would plug in the original ABS module and program it "as-built" by VIN...very strange scenario!
I see you are kicking into "I will find this problem" mode by your determination. Good for you. I assume you looked for TSBs or on a mechanic's BBS to provide some sort of clue.
I hate vehicles like that. They just pull your brain matter apart from the inside. As a quality technician, you know there is a reason and a fix, but often times your information from the factory is limited and you are left with questions you have to guess on. Not only that, but the engineers at Ford might well know about the problem but unless it shows up enough times in the field you wont see a TSB on it.
I think most channels wouldn't show us this much frustration and work. Thank you for sharing what you have actually gone through on this one. I know on Fords the ABS module will often shut off power to a sensor if it has a code, but in video one you were able to read signals with the scope so this one is a real head scratcher. I'm looking forward to part 3.
I had one and I had all the signals at the ABS module while back probing, was about to buy a new ABS but decided to do a drag test on the female end and found that the little pins had been spread apart and were not grabbing the ABS module pins.
I removed the pins and corrected the issue and all was good.
I now do more drag testing now due to that discovery.
Iv come across aftermarket wheel bearings that have different speed sensors that do not interchange with OEM hub assembly and vice versa.
@eddiereichel9354 After market hub it self also. Sensor hole off set.
I had a f150 with the same issue left front wheel if you jumpers another sensor from the vehicle it was happy sensors read like 300 ohms or 300k I don't Remer but several aftermarket ones read like 2mega ohms ordered one ford they sent 2 of them for some reason one of them read 300 and the other one 2m they were the same part number the 300 one fixed it hope this helps
I thought he tried waving the magnet in front of the sensor and it didn’t work, but the front ones did. Maybe the “new” sensor should be plugged into the rear and a magnet waved in front of it again and see what happens.
Your persistence will pay off. Great couple of videos.
These are some of rhe best videos series i have seen on youtube.
It just dawned on me I recently had a Jeep Patriot brought from another shop. They had replaced ABS sensors wheel bearings ABS module. Bunch of stuff. Turned out it was pin fitment at the wheel speed sensor.
Jake if it can be fixed you will be the one to fix it. Great job.
This is Crazy! Really looking forward to the conclusion! I can't seem to find where the configuration data is kept, I would assume the BCM, I wonder if there are customizable options using IDS or even Forscan. The one good thing that comes from these cars is you don't get burned again😀
I couldn’t find that info either but after messing around it seem the bcm and IPC have it.
Well Jake this is a good one. Guess all our expert comments didn’t HELP. Lol. I hope for your sake pt3 comes to a successful conclusion. You are so correct when you say the electronics in these cars are becoming so difficult to troubleshoot and fix. Half the crap you don’t even need. Can you imagine having a car built in the 60’s or early 70’s the biggest electrical problem I ever had was change a headlight or a set of points. I sure as hell never needed a car to park itself or monitor my wheel speed. 😂 see you in Pt3. Artie
Thank you for sharing your struggles!
Check with a factory scan tool for the option for wss in the IVD initialization menu.
On to part 3. To many hands have worked on this, but that module doesn't work right.
You got yourself a real ball buster Jake but on the plus side it makes a great video for other technicians with the same problem
I know you want to take one of those modules apart we all want to see that tomorrow 😂
A tough one, how crazy is it to have 2 equally broken ABS units, now we have to wait for part 3
This is helping me out in tracing wire harness resistance. I have a 2008 e'tec outboard with a wire harness or pin fitment issue. Unbelievable bends and tight quarters. Great videos. Your doing good. Just a fyi to go a little slower how you are setting up your test light or osicilliscope connections.
You are doing a fine job explaining what you are doing and the process involved. Hope part 3 gets it done, looking fwd to seeing it. Have you attempted to check wave form with the new OEM parts like you have earlier? I'm wondering if it is possible that someone used forscan and deleted the rear sensors or attempted to do so. Also, wondering if the previous (ABS module) parts thrown at it were for the park assist model vehicles or if someone attempted to program the car with the assist option when the car isn't equipped with it.
Ivan over on PHAD had a similar issue once, and I believe the issue was an aftermarket hub assembly in which the wheel speed sensor hole was incorrectly drilled and the sensor could not get a reading. He changed it back to an OEM hub assembly and it corrected the issue 🤷🏻♂️
Part 1 I showed the sensor working in the hub on the picoscope
Yeah that was just a lack of signal due to incorrect gap on the Subaru... This Ford is a pure module-sensor incompatibility, since the module sets a hard fault as soon as sensor is plugged in :)
Plug the front loom into the rear sensor with rear sensor installed and see if hub is good. Could also plug rear loom into front sensor to check rear loom
You're doing what I'd do. There's one question left: is the ABS module the right one for the car? I know you have two modules, but I think we're dealing with an auction car. The first module could have been the wrong one and the second one was ordered based off the first one's part number. Another thought: have you tried a different scanner? This one might be unable to reset. Until the code is cleared, the ABS may be refusing to look at the rear sensors.
I'd install the "wrong sensors" for the other system type to see if the module is incorrectly programmed to the other type system.
Edit: you said it just after i typed it 🙃
Edit 2: well, that's frustrating ☹️
I've been there, these sort of cases have made me rethink my career choices 🙄
Mind boggling, Jake! I would have checked the polarity in the connector, once Ford went to the trouble of marking it, but that would be only for peace of mind. It's possible that both ABS modules have the same fault, if it's a frequent weakness, or bad design, in the electronics. Ah, the suspense for Part 3...
Agreed. I remember a DiagnoseDan video where multiple Bosch crank sensors were wired backwards. Only knew when he scoped them and had a known good to compare.
@@TheBry_Guy Yep! I know it's a long shot but, at this point, you can't dismiss anything.
wow what a killer fault . not much left mate . only the module or duff programming . excellent due diligence don’t think you left any stone unturned on that one . 2 dodgy pump maybe. i have seen 3 modules i pulled from stores once faulty but pretty much from the same batch number . man i look forward to seeing this one through. trouble is you seem like me once you get at it you just want to know what it is , even if you invest a bucket of time in it 🤣🤣🤣
When your meter reads, "O.L." it officially means Over Limit not open loop.
Is that drum brakes in the rear by chance? If so the tone rings do not come on new drums and may be why both sides do not read speed. Interesting case for sure with the fault incorrect component installed. And you are correct the ABS module monitors a very low current on MRE sensors. 14 MA is the typical current that is measured
They are disk brakes with the encoder ring in the hub.
Have you tried the gray sensors? I don’t know if this car has parking sensors or not but the speed sensors will interchange with the same plug. Just a thought.
Ill admit i havent seen part one. Have you tried junkyard sensors? I've had catalog errors at the dealer or the vendors that makes the sensor for Ford couldve made a mistake. Beyond that it would be cool to scope front and rear at key on just to compare
Not sure if this helps but can you rule out that the ABS module that is said to be the oringinal is the factory one that came with the car? I ask because I had a Ford Fusion that I changed the ABS module because of the spongy brake pedal from a salvage yard. I got a wrong programing code from the module. I was told you could not program the modules. I tried to edit some of the options using FORSCAN at the time and gave up and ended up splitting the module off the valve body and putting the original module back on the new valve body and back in the car. No more codes. So it was definitely a programming and options issue.
Can you trust the wheel hubs, the magnetic tape? I had trouble with 2 aftermarket hubs that sensors couldn't read the magnetic tape. Replaced them with a different brand, but not OEM and still works after a year and a half! I am sure you'll figure out this madness!
I get these and I jump the rear speed sensor signal thru a long extension and feed the front harness. Clear codes and cycle the key.last but not least a total reset and remove bot battery terminals and connect the termina togetherl to hard reset the system by drawing down memory saving capacitor
I feel your frustration.
OK, my 2 cents, I see the diag is not showing the speed while driving in Topdon. I have to take it you hooked up at the module to check signal from front to get signal value and then one to rear circuit to see the signal is at least there. And at that point if it is there it would have to be the module. My next craziness is being you have the original module, did you open to check for any greenies or any obvious burns or caps blown. YOU GOT THIS. Bad part is electrical parts cannot be returned if the bag was opened.
I had an escape that had a similar issue. The wrong sensors were installed. Does this vehicle have Automatic parking? They way to tell is the sensors are either gray or black depending on the options the car has. Hth. Curious to see what you find out in part 3!!
You have 2 known goods up front. When I have issue like this, I'll use long leads and jump the sensors to see what fails.
Part 1 I swapped sensors front and back. Issue stays the same.
You showed that the module correctly senses when the circuit is open or shorted. The question is how does the module decide that the sensor is incorrect? (You bypassed the wiring which should eliminate noise or resistance/current issues.) Also does the module have some drive cycle criteria for resetting the code? [If so, the bypass trick won't work and you'd have to prove that the wiring is good during a drive - no noise or connectivity problems.]
How does it know what sensor is connected? That is the million dollar question lol
My hypothesis with that is it sees two signals for the parking assist wss. One is going to be low and the other high vehicle stationary. One hall lags the other, so it knows what direction the wheel is going. The non assist wss has only one signal.
Would be interesting to see what the MR dual sensor signal looks like on that vehicle.
It knows the correct sensor is installed when the vehicle is driven judging by no self test being performed on the scope capture when dtc are cleared and reread and since both types of sensors have been installed. The fact it flags the code after reset probably means the module isn't coded. The module has to be coded through IVD because the module isn't flashable.
My guess is when you do an IVD config for wss ( option not available on topdon?). The module looks at the configuration data in the BCM to determine if park assist is optioned. Could the BCM have been changed? You would think the dealership has tried the IVD config for wss already. Can't wait to see the conclusion on this one.
@@Discretesignals If the module has inputs for the parking assist sensors, what if you clone (jumper) the sensor wire onto them? (In other words let the module see two identical inputs for each sensor.)
every day something new to learn, but i have a question what's the part number for your GMC test light so ECM don't get damaged when i test it
It’s in the video description
I recommend you to reverse the sensor polarity
I still can't help but think that wrong parts were used in the previous repairs were the wrong ones. ABS Module, Wheel bearing hubs, and maybe sensors. You mentioned earlier about models with Park assist and without.
I think that someone rewired the plug and connected the pins to the wrong place at the abs plug. That could make sense, cause it sees the wron pins have been used to rear abs. I think if there is 2 diffrent sensor wariations, there is 2 diffrent pin location at the plug at the reat sensors. best way to know is to check if wire harne has a same part number with parking aid and without the parking aid.
100% not a circuit issue.
Scratch my last response, i just watched the rest of the video and seen you bought them. Lol
I am thinking programming. Was the car ever wrecked? I am not that familiar with Fords, is there a way to check as built sheet? How about the GEM module programming? The ABS module is not controlling park assist and stability functions.... Wondering if some other module is telling the ABS module to feed it data it is not a le to do
Some issues make you think out of the box. Thank you.ck,wisc.
I would swap the pins front and rear at the module and drive it.
I’m going with programming though.
It's an interesting case, how about updating software in BCM ?
Hi Jake, I was wondering whether the active sensors option programming might be in the GEM module?
Oscilloscope for transient voltage in circuits with them disconnected from abs module I fought freightliner for rear sensors to until I unpinned them from bulkhead with truck sleeping then waking up found voltage on wires overplayed them and solved the problem
Overlay
I proved out a circuit issue by connecting the sensor right at the module.
I wish Ivan would comment too
How about the polarity of the rear sensors? The Ford ones are marked +
4:57 Now after original sensors does that hubs have any magnets inside??? Or worse incorrect ABS module.
Part 1 showed the sensor in the hub with a good signal
is the coding in other modules correct,??? is one of them looking for "Self Park" bit of a long shot, this has to be a coding issue.
was rthe replacement abs module software copied from original module, also copying software fault. Good Luck.
Any source of RF (or a circuit that has something oscillating that shouldn't be) can definitely effect magnetic speed sensors. That said, I know you've had to replace modules that were replaced before.
Having to replace the same module twice is the thing that nightmares are made of.
I would have guessed the parking assist sensor fixed it, after seeing the original had the same codes and you verify wiring. But in verifying wiring, did you verify the individual conductors are the same from module to rear? Since there was some rear end work done. Possibilities are endless.... two bad modules, common problem and without a known good module, no way to be sure. I can go on and on..... Just like your effing parts to this story! 😉 Part 3 better have the answer. lol
Parking assist sensors?
But the abs module is reporting wrong wheel speed sensors. You need to just focus on that. Parking assistance has nothing to do with that
@@mikesabin8568 Tell us you did NOT watch part 1 without telling us? lol
After you watch part 1, you will understand.
Huh. Well it appears I was wrong about the other type of sensor. Do these sensors take a special wheel hub in order to function?
i think there possibly polar reverse on the sensor since there was repair at the module plug
Incorrect coding into abs or ecm/ bcm ? When new module was installed? Bad handshake with module?
Part 3
You can do it!
Ще трохи.
Funky body ground? Does the hub assembly missing a body ground?
Nope nothing weird like that
Wow that’s crazy. I thought for sure the correct Ford sensor was going to fix it.
wrong abs module was installed/programmed? is it looking for the bi-directional sensor?
I think it's the data stream issue . . .
Just looking at the length of the video it's not a part problem. 🧐
Time to get a known good waveform on those rear sensors from your friend (that got you the as built data) and compare to the ones that are missing from your first video.
Sadly that car is long gone. This car was a couple months long project. The first day I looked at it was Jan 5 and it's actually still at my shop.
You need a lift for that diag. But get a ford module.
Could they have programmed the module with the enhanced config instead of the base config?
Who said that? ABS It interprets the signal correctly. I doubt this unit. I think you should take a look at some of the units that require the speed of the car to operate.
You will fix it Jake. 100% trust in you.
I have had many problems with Ford wheel speed sensors. On the same model you're working on, this is a nail biter
What a messed up repair dang it must be the module but having two dead ones is suspect so something may be killing the module as soon as a new one is installed but who knows maybe it is just a far out coincidence I'm looking forward to seeing what this turns out to be in the end.
Hi when the rear hubs were swapped did they swap over the reluctors
The encoder ring is in the hub
I'd disconnect the rear sensors and jumper wire the front sensors to the rear sensors inputs to the module to see if I begin to see mph on the rear on the scanner regardless of dtcs. Why does my computer not report this data? And do the opposite, rear sensors in front inputs.
Part 1 I covered the rear sensor works in the front
We will have to call Scott Killmore. He will just yell that all cars are junk accept his Toyota matrix.
Damm what a Weired issue. Waiting for the fix
are the sensors going into the correct pins in the module?
Yes
Very frustrating. Can you reprogram the ABS module with your equipment? I would try that first
That will be covered in part 3 which is up now.
I have seen Ford download the incorrect programming to a brand new srs module on a 22 bronco, as you know the stuff is selected automatically by the ford tool going by the vin number , there's incorrect information on their server. It happened at the Ford dealer when they tried to program the first srs module themselves, they called us in to do it "right" but my documentation proved it was internally fords mistake.
I said in the first videos comments already that the ABS module has the wrong software in it. I am surprised he hasn't already checked the exact software variant and version of the ABS. My money is still on this.
@Google_Is_Evil I'm not sure I know a way around the Ford tool choosing the software by the vin number. I know for fact they do make mistakes but iono how to fix it
So there is only 1 module for both systems, there is no PMI or programming, only learning the Central Configuration data.
@autodiagyt well damn. I'm really wanting to know the answer here lol. You've verified all wiring is intact, if there's no programming is looking like a module, what year is this car ? Also does it have the auto park system? The earlier years worked but they damn sure didn't have it figured out yet
@@autodiagytWhere does the central configuration data come from?
depin the front sensor and put the rear in its place on the abs module
Live data will show the front pid working and still have fault for the rear.
The circuit needs to be load-tested, not ohm-tested. Plug a test light into the sensor end, power-up the module end, check for TSBs, and check for pin fitment at the module.
I proved its not a circuit issue by connecting the sensor right at the module.
Incorrect hub assembly for that setup?
Service Information doesn’t get any indication that the reluctor is different at all.
What I find interesting is the fault code comes back immediately without moving the car.
there is a signal in the oscilloscope but no signal in the scan tool that means something wrong with the module. Maybe the module needs programming or buy a new one
❤❤❤❤❤
Did change rear wheel bearings
Yes they have been changed
I could see the stress on your face there as you've done everything but nothing computes. Have you tried emptying the Ashtray!!!😉👍
Got a bmw in once with new hubs and they weren't correct so it had no signal
Waaaaw.. can't say more that 😢
Guess if you’re in desperation could take your buddy’s module off his car the electronic portion. Maybe they’re not the original module? It’s a car lot probably lying the original module went bye bye years ago. Maybe try get one exact part number from wrecking yard
That car is long gone
Bent rims that’s a new one
Put the original abs module back in .
😊😊👍👍
Damn!
I think when you said ford programmed the model and you had trouble finding if it a double or single they probably programmed a double not a single
I've learned there is no programming this module. Only relearning the central configuration
@@autodiagyt makes you wonder what ford charged them for?
I feel like your testing on the wiring is good and don’t think it’s a wiring concer at this point. I would run as-built data on the module. If that doesn’t work contact your local ford parts and ask about the part numbers. Maybe the original module you have isn’t actually the original to the car. Have them compare your engineering numbers as well. Let’s see what info that turns up. I could advise more after we have some of those answers.
Since you've already cut wires, why not cut the front and the rear and swap them at the module
No point in it. I already know a rear sensor in the front circuit works.
Yea but if it now reads the front for the rear and sets the code you know it has to be in the module. Also if the module was cloned then it's possible it's a software that got put over. I'm with you highly unlikely 2 modules same codes
faulty tpms sensors ????
I wish
How you fix it in 2 minutes black electrical tape on the dash done.
Incorrectly coded asbuilt?
There is only 1 as built for both systems. The module isn't even programmable like a typical module you can update software or do a PMI on.
Hmm, Any change in voltage with the new sensors?
Relays are bad should be two blue relays together
What relays?
Try another scanner!
Have you tried changing the polarity at the sensor? Last ditch effort other than both modules being bad in the same way which also seems like a far reach.
I was hoping it was the calibration of the ABS module. You look a bit beat up by this car for sure.
I remembered Paul aka Scanner Danner having a car with a wheel speed sensor issue video possibly in the last year. It was an odd issue to that threw him for a loop.
Can’t wait for the next video. Hopefully, it doesn’t end up with lit tube sock in the filler neck. 🤣🤣
Calibration would never “fix” anything if the ECU thinks is not the proper part!