That was really impressive. So the customer would have ended up paying for a BCM and a fuse box and other stuff that they probably found along the trail to the fuse box. 😳
WOW holy carnage, Jake! Quick tip on avoiding cutting wires...just use a test light to ground while watching the amp clamp on the wire to determine the source of the voltage via current flow direction 😉
Can we get a more detailed explanation of what you are saying here, obviously Jake gets it, for the less educated (me) maybe a picture or an actual demonstration like another commenter mentioned. I gather the amp clamp would not be on battery negative but on the wire you are trying not to cut. The test lamp is connected to ground and pierced through the wire we are trying not to cut. So how does this tell us which direction the power is coming from?
@@autodiagyt definitely needs a new BCM! 🤣👌 I crapped my pants when you showed the 20A parasitic draw... All time record! First thought was something is getting REALLY HOT 🔥🔥🔥
Honda diagnostic flowchart: Read DTC, replace corresponding module. If no results, continue replacing modules until all modules are replaced. If still no results, sell new car :-) Loved the well deserved sarcasm! Superb diagnostic and thought process, Jake! Appart from the fuse box (and the BCM, of course), there may be a problem with whatever that carbonized relay used to power when good. Nevertheless, a loose connection can scorch any material with high current flowing, even if no other parts were bad. Seems Part 2 may bring some more interesting bits of information :-)
great diagnostic case. It is an example of how diagnostic letters are limited. the difference between a technician and a parts changer. congratulations.
Great diag and thought process. Wonder if a low amp clamp over those wires at the interior fuse box could’ve determine direction of current flow without cutting.
That would have been a great idea. I could have loaded it with a test like and seen which line increased 2 amps when the bulb is on and then dropped when off. I’ll try to keep that in mind for next time!
@@autodiagyt Yeah.. I personally wouldn't cut wires until it's a last resort. I'm not against it: I would just do other things first if I had more options.
Waiting patiently for next video but I’m going to say it’s the AC clutch relay.🤷♂️ WAG… Because many times I’ve had Honda’s come in with dead batteries and a draw and it was the relay, but I’ve never seen one melted down like that.
Some of these flow charts are so stupid, it's baffling. Step 1: Turn key to start position, does engine start? Yes goto 2, No goto 3. Step 2: Go to step 3 Step 3: Replace Engine Assy
😂well this was different . That is one fried really . I wonder if it shorted out anything else those relays in that wares looked pretty toasted . Looking forward to part 2 . Thanks for sharing .Haven’t seen one that cooked that bad . 👍 Artie
I agree, however in this case, it's likely the 20 amps were because a number of modules were powered on. When I saw 20 amp, my first reaction was to throw the amp clamp on the battery to alternator wire to make sure it wasn't blown diodes. (In this case, it would have been a dead end, but it was a quick and easy test that ruled out a possibility.)
I like Honda's service info because it's so humorous-Try a VSA and then try a PCM. But recently other manufacturers are following their example. Ford for one. Edit-Rear window defogger relay (M1) per ALLDATA's box view.
I think that "diagnosis" flow chart, was setup by one of the BCM programer, and the poor guy never thought other things could fail. Regarding the cable cut, assuming the fuse box was not burnt down, you can measure how current is flowing with your volt meter. A cable has a resistance, and if looking at the diagram you see current should flow in certain direction, there will be a voltage drop on the cable. When you turn off the car, check that same voltage, and if changes polarity, that means current is flowing in the opposite direction. This helps find this feedback issue between the two cable you cut, but without cutting them. Voltmeter needs to be in mV scale, but your does.
I suspect of the 3 relays the moment i saw them. Personally i would prefer go to the fusebox y remove the 3 relays to confirm that the circuit going through pin C8 wasn't the problem and don't cut or depin the connector. Great diagnostic btw!
Jake at 40:40 "Holy shit, I don't know what to do" when pulling the relay out is the best comment you've made in all your videos. I think I would have disconnected the battery and pushed the bloody thing outside before it burnt my workshop down 😁
20 amps drow is like a 200watt space heater, should be very easy to find where the power goes with a thermal camera. Having a InfiRay thermal camera in my phone i always use that as a first thing on cars drawing power 😅 Can see what fuse, relay, cable and module the power goes to if it is more than a half amp usually
At 39:20, yes, the thermal camera would find it, however, it is a very good thing you followed the circuit path because there is a big learning value that transfers to other electrical diagnostic problems, including learning how to use diagrams. Great video.
I wouldn't put it past them to have the code short the BCM internally when it is set. Much like Voyager did when the antenna didn't receive a signal that wasn't sent. Fry the antenna lead and use back up.
lol funniest video yet! Love it. Honda’s diagnostics always use to end with install good known “part” and retest. I would probably say it is the a/c relay if I had to take a “swag” (scientific wild ass guess) seen a lot fail causing draws and or just not functional.
When I saw 20A+ drain, my first thought was "thermal camera." That's gonna be a ton of heat somewhere. Also, no way would I start poking around in that crispy fuse box without disconnecting the battery first (and the maintainer, obvs).
Just to clarify, I'm not worried about damage to the person when poking around in fried hardware. I'd be worried about destroying more stuff, shorting more things together, burning up wiring harnesses or other components which weren't damaged originally, etc.
You had me going with your intro and I was wondering if you had hit your head. I was about to recommend the place in Mexico that just fixed my multiple TBIs and PTSD. 😂😂
This is to streamline the process so a fresh out of school tech can get the job done and the customer on their way hoping that at least 80% of the time it is the BCM. Every single manufacturer has these kinds of flow charts and it boggles my mind they want techs to follow these to a tee. This is a bunch of engineers that come up with this crap because they think they are better than everyone else. They will put together the most simple and condescending chart they can to not only make fun of new techs fresh out of college, but to insult their intelligence. Then to make matters worse, the service manager(which normally don't know sh*t) makes everyone follow the engineering flow chart that was created by biased and unhelpful people. A friend of mine took his charger to the dealer because he had gasoline puddles under his car. The service manager called him up and had him stop into the dealership just to tell him he had 2 fuel pumps in his tank. The guy seemed completely clueless and was telling my friend this like it was the first time he ever seen something like this. My buddy was like "yeah, the driveshaft goes through the middle and the gas tank has a hump in it. The service manager said that it was not the case and that both fuel pumps were part of one unit when they were two separate units on either side of the hump.
Do I sense a bit of sarcasm ? Great intro. I had to watch the beginning a few times, it cracked me up. You really have to try stand up you'll probably give up being a tech 😂
Diagnosing issues for other shops and customers no fixes for draws for decades. I supercharger my diag. work first leaving everything in a serviceable mode with doors tripped and battery maintainer overnight in conditioned shop temperature. I infrared test first and find the hot spots and then go to codes and using identifix also for known failures and then go into electrical Diagnosis seems to save hours and why I call it supercharged parasitic draw testing. I don't jump to using one test or information source I use them collectively to use logical thinking process to get deeper into electrical system and use diagnostic tree sometimes last.
How do you like the "snickers bar" meter? I took one of Sean's classes at ASTA last month and he was talking about them. Haven't ordered one yet but plan to.
@autodiagyt appreciate the reply! I'll go ahead and order 1 or 2, they're pretty inexpensive if I remember correctly. That's a great representation of why I don't follow trouble trees lol I'll use them, code set criteria and wiring diagrams to determine circuit design but do my own checks dependent on codes, symptoms, etc. Thanks for sharing, keep up the great work!
But that wouldn’t make a good video would it lol. The purpose was to show how to troubleshoot a code with a completely wrong diagnostic flow chart. The complaint could have easily just been the Keyless Start message and no battery issue.
It's sad when the Manufacturer is helping LOAD UP THE PARTS CANNON with their flowchart instead of providing the Tech with diagnostic guidance. But, hey, there's good money to be made from all those unnecessary BCM replacements!
Finding the issue fast isn't ever the purpose of the channel. It's about developing Diagnostic skills. This could of easily been a 1 amp battery drain and still that same code saying replace the BCM.
Mainly because there was 2 concerns with the vehicle. The keyless start and the battery drain. I figured they was related and just wanted to show a different approach. And it made a much better video then just going after the massive battery drain.
Another big problem that I saw is the car was off so the generator was not working and still 14.13 that is crazy . I don’t think is normal. Do you? If so why ?
You can tell these people building these things and writing service information have never worked in the field. They don’t even think about the possibility of a burnt up relay or fuse box back feeding a circuit.
Honestly I didn’t lol. My logic is the BCM had that code and a faulty BCM could have turned things on to cause the draw. Just mainly wanted to pick a route and follow it. It’s probably the longest way around finding the battery drain but I showed how you can just start with something that is a known problem(the code) and follow it to the source of the problem. Hypothetically let’s say the relay wasn’t the issue and something else was, this approach would still find it.
wow i thought i had it bad earlier in the week with a 400 ma draw 🤣🤣🤣🤣 but 24 amp yep they were in trouble . mind you again i was screwed on the drawing . lucky for me i watch this channel “never trust your drawing “ it did not show me the full circuit to many wires in one of the plugs i tracked it down to federal car spider and oh what’s this a what i call billy bob button (emergency roof realise button) apparently a requirement in your neck of the woods ie the states . mind you the gap between the roof compartment and the roof cover that would have to be one skinny kid to get trapped in there 🤪🤪 but the button was the culprit unplugged draw went away . i guess what i am saying is thank you 🙏 lucky i had seen you do many a draw and i don’t see them all that often in the plant . oh and they did swap the bcm before they called me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Omg someone that actually used truspeed motor. Can you tell me if its worth the 600-700 a year subscription on the autel? I didn't want to commit till I was actually was able to get a review or a few opnions about it. Right now I share Alldata with another shop and its been my favorite SI for the last 10 years, compared to Prodemand.
Honestly is it worth the $600 it depends. I love how it’s linked in the tool because it’s fast for looking codes like I showed here. The search function seems ok. I like that it has the oe diagrams but no aftermarket redrawn. The thing I hate about it is the organization. Nothing is broken down into systems. They almost force you to use the search bar. Secondly they may not have something labeled like the OE SI would be so that can be frustrating. I really need to do a review video on it cause there is definitely a lot of holes in it. With that said it’s 1/4 the cost of alldata yearly. So if this is you go to scantool the integration part is a pretty good value but it’s in no way a replacement for alldata or prodemand. But it does make looking up codes really easy and fast when it’s in the library.
Is the diagnostic procedure a marketing technic to sell parts? Or are the engineers writing the diagnostic procedures that stupid? Is there a third explanation?
36:56 All time asking my self is it easier to watch with thermal camera and then looking reverse? Because that amount of amps will show gloving something.
When there is a huge draw like this the thermal camera will probably be a good first grab but take the Ford F150 from a couple weeks ago it would of been useless on it and pretty much most of the battery drain issues I get.
@@autodiagyt I forgot to mention... probably you not want to disturb some wires or bad contacts...because maybe that causing short to activate back feeding on something, but here is obviously why.
That was really impressive. So the customer would have ended up paying for a BCM and a fuse box and other stuff that they probably found along the trail to the fuse box. 😳
WOW holy carnage, Jake!
Quick tip on avoiding cutting wires...just use a test light to ground while watching the amp clamp on the wire to determine the source of the voltage via current flow direction 😉
sounds like a practical solution. Could you show us a demonstration on your channel 👍
Someone else said that also. Idk why I didn’t think of that.
Can we get a more detailed explanation of what you are saying here, obviously Jake gets it, for the less educated (me) maybe a picture or an actual demonstration like another commenter mentioned. I gather the amp clamp would not be on battery negative but on the wire you are trying not to cut. The test lamp is connected to ground and pierced through the wire we are trying not to cut. So how does this tell us which direction the power is coming from?
@@autodiagyt definitely needs a new BCM! 🤣👌
I crapped my pants when you showed the 20A parasitic draw... All time record! First thought was something is getting REALLY HOT 🔥🔥🔥
ivan the some time refer this your logic is key.
The correct sarcasm is unreal!
Best diagnostics channel on youtube!
There are a few others.. but he's one of them.
Best!
You're almost correct.... One of the best!
There are a few he learns from too....
I don’t know about the rest of y’all but I am eagerly looking forward to Part 2 where this poor Civic gets the BCM it so richly deserves!
Honda diagnostic flowchart: Read DTC, replace corresponding module. If no results, continue replacing modules until all modules are replaced. If still no results, sell new car :-)
Loved the well deserved sarcasm!
Superb diagnostic and thought process, Jake! Appart from the fuse box (and the BCM, of course), there may be a problem with whatever that carbonized relay used to power when good. Nevertheless, a loose connection can scorch any material with high current flowing, even if no other parts were bad. Seems Part 2 may bring some more interesting bits of information :-)
great diagnostic case. It is an example of how diagnostic letters are limited. the difference between a technician and a parts changer. congratulations.
Great diag and thought process. Wonder if a low amp clamp over those wires at the interior fuse box could’ve determine direction of current flow without cutting.
That would have been a great idea. I could have loaded it with a test like and seen which line increased 2 amps when the bulb is on and then dropped when off. I’ll try to keep that in mind for next time!
@@autodiagyt Yeah.. I personally wouldn't cut wires until it's a last resort. I'm not against it: I would just do other things first if I had more options.
@@calholli trust me I hate doing it lol. I spent plenty of time trying to depin it. I just couldn’t get it lol.
The sarcasm is priceless haha. Great diagnosing and always nice to watch the practical way you solve the problem
That's something new. Never saw that before! WOW!
On to the new (or used) fuse/relay box and part 2.
Good one Jake!
Love it Jake, keep'em coming, and thank you..
Waiting patiently for next video but I’m going to say it’s the AC clutch relay.🤷♂️ WAG… Because many times I’ve had Honda’s come in with dead batteries and a draw and it was the relay, but I’ve never seen one melted down like that.
Rear window defogger relay.
Some of these flow charts are so stupid, it's baffling.
Step 1: Turn key to start position, does engine start? Yes goto 2, No goto 3.
Step 2: Go to step 3
Step 3: Replace Engine Assy
Anything that condemns a module without ever testing any voltages or loading the circuit: should be discarded.
😂
😂well this was different . That is one fried really . I wonder if it shorted out anything else those relays in that wares looked pretty toasted . Looking forward to part 2 . Thanks for sharing .Haven’t seen one that cooked that bad . 👍 Artie
Awesome, I guess you'll add hondas on your nissan list, great intro you should do standup
I’m glad I found this channel, keep up the good work🙏
A thermal camera would work well for a job like this.. Whatever is pulling over 20amps, it's going to be heating up a LOT. That would be my first move
Actually 1 amp would show up on a thermal if it's not buried in the dash! I know I have one it's amazing
@@hhn2002 Exactly.. That's my point. 1 or 2 amps is easy to find: 20amps would be impossible to miss.
I agree, however in this case, it's likely the 20 amps were because a number of modules were powered on. When I saw 20 amp, my first reaction was to throw the amp clamp on the battery to alternator wire to make sure it wasn't blown diodes. (In this case, it would have been a dead end, but it was a quick and easy test that ruled out a possibility.)
Well Woody, that was a great upload, thanks for sharing.
Your humor is awesome, thanks for sharing! What a melt down
Amazing it didn't catch fire !
Why didn't fuse shut down the power??
I like Honda's service info because it's so humorous-Try a VSA and then try a PCM. But recently other manufacturers are following their example. Ford for one.
Edit-Rear window defogger relay (M1) per ALLDATA's box view.
I think that "diagnosis" flow chart, was setup by one of the BCM programer, and the poor guy never thought other things could fail.
Regarding the cable cut, assuming the fuse box was not burnt down, you can measure how current is flowing with your volt meter. A cable has a resistance, and if looking at the diagram you see current should flow in certain direction, there will be a voltage drop on the cable. When you turn off the car, check that same voltage, and if changes polarity, that means current is flowing in the opposite direction. This helps find this feedback issue between the two cable you cut, but without cutting them. Voltmeter needs to be in mV scale, but your does.
I suspect of the 3 relays the moment i saw them. Personally i would prefer go to the fusebox y remove the 3 relays to confirm that the circuit going through pin C8 wasn't the problem and don't cut or depin the connector. Great diagnostic btw!
I cant believe the BCM melted like that. Cant wait to see why that defogger relay was stuck on.
Jake at 40:40 "Holy shit, I don't know what to do" when pulling the relay out is the best comment you've made in all your videos. I think I would have disconnected the battery and pushed the bloody thing outside before it burnt my workshop down 😁
20 amps drow is like a 200watt space heater, should be very easy to find where the power goes with a thermal camera.
Having a InfiRay thermal camera in my phone i always use that as a first thing on cars drawing power 😅
Can see what fuse, relay, cable and module the power goes to if it is more than a half amp usually
Wow! Did not expect that
At 39:20, yes, the thermal camera would find it, however, it is a very good thing you followed the circuit path because there is a big learning value that transfers to other electrical diagnostic problems, including learning how to use diagrams.
Great video.
Good thing the "fuse" in the fise box did what it was supposed to do....oh wait, the relay did the fuses job. 😅
I wouldn't put it past them to have the code short the BCM internally when it is set. Much like Voyager did when the antenna didn't receive a signal that wasn't sent. Fry the antenna lead and use back up.
lol funniest video yet! Love it. Honda’s diagnostics always use to end with install good known “part” and retest. I would probably say it is the a/c relay if I had to take a “swag” (scientific wild ass guess) seen a lot fail causing draws and or just not functional.
outstanding nicely done .
Lucky the car didn't catch fire with that so hot. Melting the box and all
Don't edit anything Jake your only telling the truth thanks great video
I might have clipped out a few choice words lol
Man thank you very much
Well done 👍
When I saw 20A+ drain, my first thought was "thermal camera." That's gonna be a ton of heat somewhere. Also, no way would I start poking around in that crispy fuse box without disconnecting the battery first (and the maintainer, obvs).
Just to clarify, I'm not worried about damage to the person when poking around in fried hardware. I'd be worried about destroying more stuff, shorting more things together, burning up wiring harnesses or other components which weren't damaged originally, etc.
BCM stands for fusebox ... Apparently🤣
Grasias
Love the sarcasm 😂
You had me going with your intro and I was wondering if you had hit your head. I was about to recommend the place in Mexico that just fixed my multiple TBIs and PTSD. 😂😂
Mr Jake .
Can you please explain to me why the first test (194) didn’t lead with 14 something volts?
14 volts is plenty to light it right?
The resistor inside the fuse box limits the current. Without a load you see the 14v, add a load and it creates a voltage drop across the resistor.
This is to streamline the process so a fresh out of school tech can get the job done and the customer on their way hoping that at least 80% of the time it is the BCM. Every single manufacturer has these kinds of flow charts and it boggles my mind they want techs to follow these to a tee. This is a bunch of engineers that come up with this crap because they think they are better than everyone else. They will put together the most simple and condescending chart they can to not only make fun of new techs fresh out of college, but to insult their intelligence. Then to make matters worse, the service manager(which normally don't know sh*t) makes everyone follow the engineering flow chart that was created by biased and unhelpful people. A friend of mine took his charger to the dealer because he had gasoline puddles under his car. The service manager called him up and had him stop into the dealership just to tell him he had 2 fuel pumps in his tank. The guy seemed completely clueless and was telling my friend this like it was the first time he ever seen something like this. My buddy was like "yeah, the driveshaft goes through the middle and the gas tank has a hump in it. The service manager said that it was not the case and that both fuel pumps were part of one unit when they were two separate units on either side of the hump.
Honda is notorious for these kinds of flow charts. Usually step 2 or 3 is “substitute known good part”.
Holy shit, I wasn't expecting that, total melt down....I wonder what caused it.
well I already cut one wire let's go ahead and cut another one! that's the spirit!
Exactly lol
Do I sense a bit of sarcasm ? Great intro. I had to watch the beginning a few times, it cracked me up. You really have to try stand up you'll probably give up being a tech 😂
Diagnosing issues for other shops and customers no fixes for draws for decades. I supercharger my diag. work first leaving everything in a serviceable mode with doors tripped and battery maintainer overnight in conditioned shop temperature. I infrared test first and find the hot spots and then go to codes and using identifix also for known failures and then go into electrical Diagnosis seems to save hours and why I call it supercharged parasitic draw testing. I don't jump to using one test or information source I use them collectively to use logical thinking process to get deeper into electrical system and use diagnostic tree sometimes last.
How do you like the "snickers bar" meter? I took one of Sean's classes at ASTA last month and he was talking about them. Haven't ordered one yet but plan to.
Oh man it’s the best amp clamp for quick checks.
@autodiagyt appreciate the reply! I'll go ahead and order 1 or 2, they're pretty inexpensive if I remember correctly.
That's a great representation of why I don't follow trouble trees lol I'll use them, code set criteria and wiring diagrams to determine circuit design but do my own checks dependent on codes, symptoms, etc.
Thanks for sharing, keep up the great work!
also codes for seat heater circuit, drawing 20 amps
With a 20A draw I'd have gone straight to the thermal camera, something had to be getting pretty hot.
But that wouldn’t make a good video would it lol. The purpose was to show how to troubleshoot a code with a completely wrong diagnostic flow chart. The complaint could have easily just been the Keyless Start message and no battery issue.
@@autodiagyt No fair enough, I totally understand you wanted to show the whole process.
It's sad when the Manufacturer is helping LOAD UP THE PARTS CANNON with their flowchart instead of providing the Tech with diagnostic guidance. But, hey, there's good money to be made from all those unnecessary BCM replacements!
What state is your shop located in? Im a new subscriber
North Alabama
@@autodiagyt Is there a way to get the address
@@gregorywilson-parker1619 send me an email
That's a lot of wires cut and a lots of turns for not checking the basics of the basics (visual inspection first)
Finding the issue fast isn't ever the purpose of the channel. It's about developing Diagnostic skills. This could of easily been a 1 amp battery drain and still that same code saying replace the BCM.
If it had a better battery in it you would have been able to find the problem from the blistered paint on the hood.
Why not go after that huge battery draw first? Just wondering what made you go down the bcm code road
Mainly because there was 2 concerns with the vehicle. The keyless start and the battery drain. I figured they was related and just wanted to show a different approach. And it made a much better video then just going after the massive battery drain.
@@autodiagyt that’s what I figured! Great channel 👍
Another big problem that I saw is the car was off so the generator was not working and still 14.13 that is crazy .
I don’t think is normal.
Do you? If so why ?
The 14v is from the battery maintainer.
You can tell these people building these things and writing service information have never worked in the field. They don’t even think about the possibility of a burnt up relay or fuse box back feeding a circuit.
Just one problem , why did this happen 😕
im gonna guess green crusties at 18.41 with bulb check. lets see
Honda flow charts are garbage. They hardly tell what sets the code or theory of operation
No way you didn't know the fuse box was melted before you cut them wires 😂
Honestly I didn’t lol. My logic is the BCM had that code and a faulty BCM could have turned things on to cause the draw. Just mainly wanted to pick a route and follow it. It’s probably the longest way around finding the battery drain but I showed how you can just start with something that is a known problem(the code) and follow it to the source of the problem. Hypothetically let’s say the relay wasn’t the issue and something else was, this approach would still find it.
wow i thought i had it bad earlier in the week with a 400 ma draw 🤣🤣🤣🤣 but 24 amp yep they were in trouble . mind you again i was screwed on the drawing . lucky for me i watch this channel “never trust your drawing “ it did not show me the full circuit to many wires in one of the plugs i tracked it down to federal car spider and oh what’s this a what i call billy bob button (emergency roof realise button) apparently a requirement in your neck of the woods ie the states . mind you the gap between the roof compartment and the roof cover that would have to be one skinny kid to get trapped in there 🤪🤪 but the button was the culprit unplugged draw went away . i guess what i am saying is thank you 🙏 lucky i had seen you do many a draw and i don’t see them all that often in the plant . oh and they did swap the bcm before they called me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Does vehicle have a nice bulge?
YES
Replace BCM
If I was you, I would put a BCM in it and if that didn't work, assume it's defective and put another one
Exactly! There is no other possible cause for the code.
Omg someone that actually used truspeed motor. Can you tell me if its worth the 600-700 a year subscription on the autel? I didn't want to commit till I was actually was able to get a review or a few opnions about it. Right now I share Alldata with another shop and its been my favorite SI for the last 10 years, compared to Prodemand.
Honestly is it worth the $600 it depends. I love how it’s linked in the tool because it’s fast for looking codes like I showed here. The search function seems ok. I like that it has the oe diagrams but no aftermarket redrawn. The thing I hate about it is the organization. Nothing is broken down into systems. They almost force you to use the search bar. Secondly they may not have something labeled like the OE SI would be so that can be frustrating. I really need to do a review video on it cause there is definitely a lot of holes in it. With that said it’s 1/4 the cost of alldata yearly. So if this is you go to scantool the integration part is a pretty good value but it’s in no way a replacement for alldata or prodemand. But it does make looking up codes really easy and fast when it’s in the library.
I agree with honda. Put a bcm in it. Lol
Is the diagnostic procedure a marketing technic to sell parts? Or are the engineers writing the diagnostic procedures that stupid?
Is there a third explanation?
🙄
Retract the claws! Holy SMOKES!
Newer fuse boxes are such a disaster....
36:56 All time asking my self is it easier to watch with thermal camera and then looking reverse? Because that amount of amps will show gloving something.
When there is a huge draw like this the thermal camera will probably be a good first grab but take the Ford F150 from a couple weeks ago it would of been useless on it and pretty much most of the battery drain issues I get.
@@autodiagyt I forgot to mention... probably you not want to disturb some wires or bad contacts...because maybe that causing short to activate back feeding on something, but here is obviously why.