Your First Acoustic Guitar Build - How long will it take to finish?
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- In this episode of DIY Guitar Making: Some practical thoughts on estimating how many hours, days, months or years it will take you to build an acoustic guitar for the first time.
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I did the x10 rule an I’m slated to finish my guitar in 2064. So I’m planning it as a gift to my first great great grandchild.
I recently finished my first Guitar. I based myself on Jonathan Kinkade's book. I took a year to read and to plan the whole build, going through every steps in my head Multiple times. I had a background of 2 years in woodworking (basically cutting boards) and I classify my shop as a well equipped for an hobbyist (most of the big tools and I had a drum sander which helped so much).. I had planned approximately 6 months for the build. Started slowly with 15h a week for a month and then Due to the Covid-19, I lost my job and worked on the guitar around 50h a week for a month. I completed it within those 2 months and that includes making all the jigs and everything. Now I really want to start building my second guitar but my girlfriend told me I have to play with the first one before jumping on the second one haha. So yeah, to anyone reading this, this video is dead on. The quick guys will do it within the 3 months mark, and the slowest, less experienced guys will do it within the year. I consider myself as an average and was about to complete it in 6 months. Great advice Eric thanks for the videos!
Eric, Iam a retired Cabinet/Furniture maker. I built my first Tennor ukulele from scratch last year, It took me almost 7-months to complete, Man I learned alot & made a ton of mistakes. Iam now taking my time too do alot of research So I can try too build an acustic guitar. This is agood vidieo for people to watch. Thank you & I hope my input helps.
This Channel is gold, thank you Eric!
As always your tips or advice is very helpful for me thank you, Eric.
I particularly appreciate your sentiments on the usefulness of a deadline. Thanks Mr S 👍
Thanks Eric. Beautiful guitar that you are working on.
Eric, how long have you been building guitars? Did you grow up woodworking? What made you choose this profession?
Wow, my recent first build apparently was well below average lol. Took me about 1 1/2 months
One other point, do you have a comprehensive list of tools, power tools, clamps, etc.?
Eric, your videos are excellent and much appreciated. What is the main glue you are using for wood joinery? Titebond Original?
Thanks! Yes, I use titebond original for almost everything. I haven't delved into using hot hide glue yet.
I'm a weekend warrior and I am on the one year track. It's actually been slightly longer because I had some down time for medical issues. My question is, how much faster do the second and third guitars go for a weekend warrior? I'd assume it would be faster since I have the tools and techniques and also don't have to spend hours researching every step.
That is hard to judge as well, but I would say, generally speaking, that you can cut out 25% - 50% of the time just by cutting out the need for tooling up and for research at every step. And you'll save even more time as you get better. Often people will change certain elements of subsequent guitars or build a different model instrument, and that, of course, requires more research. So, like a lot of things, it is hard to say lol. My most recent instrument took me about half a year, because I redesigned the bridge shape, the fretboard tongue, incorporated a somogyi heel and a florentine cutaway, and radically altered the back bracing pattern. What might have taken me 2 months took me 6 because I wanted to adapt the design to something new. All things to consider...
I'm just starting my third guitar and built the first two in parallel, finishing a couple of steps on the first and then repeating them for the second. The second one was dramatically faster to build. So much so that it almost felt like it didn't add to the build time of the first. A large part of this was, of course, learning new techniques and not having to do all the research twice. However I think what saved me most time on the second was knowing where to spend my effort and where to move along quickly. For example:
*) On the first one I thought I needed to get the sides perfectly bent (keeping their final shape EXACTLY without any external pressure) but on the second I spent maybe a 5th of the time getting them "close enough" and the end result ended up better anyway.
*) I spent way to much time sanding the first guitar after each step instead of mostly before applying the finish (maybe 80% more total than on the second).
*) I learnt that the sides DO have to be perfect before routing the binding channels, otherwise you'll end up spending a lot more time sanding later while ruining the end result (non-uniform thickness of binding, etc.)
*) I did all the work without any power tools (this is a hobby for me so I don't mind the extra work) and thicknessing the plates took a long time on the first because I was afraid of tear-out while planing and spent a lot of time sanding and checking for the correct thickness (planing 50%, sanding 50%). On the second I had already developed a feeling for what I could get away with and where and how much material to remove so I got it done in a fraction of the time (planing 90%, sanding 10%).
*) Building the neck is 90% about knowing in which order to remove material. Careful layout and knowledge of the order will take off probably 80% of the time.
*) On the first I spent more time worrying about which finish to use and how to apply it than I did finishing the whole second guitar (I went with french polish).
*) For the neck-body joint I went with a hand cut dovetail joint and what took most time here was figuring out what and where to measure in order to get the right neck angle and stuff like that - again the second went much faster.
Are cigar box guitars “easier”, to make than - regular acoustic? I’m just wondering what your take is for a first guitar.
yes. There is far less work involved, because the soundbox is already built for you. Also, just generally speaking, there is a much lower standard for a cigar box guitar so the details don't necessarily need to be sweated. That's a great way, though, to nail down and understand the basics of neck geometry and fretwork.
Dcwoodpicks.com check out theyre busy picks. Could you make one out of theyre blocks?
Hello Eric: I have a question, I am new to learning how to build a guitar, and have never done wood bending. When bending the the guitar sides, what type of wood grain can you bend without it snapping, I've read you can bend quarter and flat sawn sides. Should you generally avoid all other grains for side bending besides flat and quarter sawn, or can you bend other types of wood grain with success?
Thanks for all the free videos, they're very helpful. Regards!
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. What other grain types are you worried about? Skew? All grain is somewhere between flat and quarter, which means it is skewed to some extent and that is fine. Personally I try to find grain that is as quartersawn as i can get for bending.
@@EricSchaeferGuitars I was curious if the wood grain could be off at a slight angle (nothing substantial) for side bending, I would like to use my own dried wood at some point, It will be more difficult than buying a kit, but I want to at least give it a shot. I have most of the tools needed to build a guitar, I just need to get some side bending equipment. Thank you for the reply,
I will use the straightest grain I can find for the sides.
NACHO_ Anything quarter to riff-sawn should be fine. I’ve even bent almost flatsawn lumber when practicing and didnt have a problem with snapping a side. It has more to do with knowing how much heat and pressure to apply. Some woods are more forgiving than others like Indian Rosewood is very easy to bend.
thank you Eric. lots to do on the first one all the jigs to make . i wonder have you ever tried or had someone use the VA (veterans ) schooling benefit ? just wondering ? i am way past use date lol but it makes you wonder ! i will start my first in April will try a classical first . as i do em i will improve speed . again thank you
ya know, I've had someone attempt to use VA schooling benefits before. They were going to inquire within their VA but then I never heard back from them. So I don't know if it wasn't accepted or if he just lost interest or what happened. Yea, I wonder... That's great to hear that you're getting started, Walter! Good luck on it! I hope my videos can help.
@@EricSchaeferGuitars i do not know what the schooling benefits are now days . when i use mine the school had to be accredited. so not sure it a small business would pass muster . paper pushers just do not know all . they just pretend too. also its about timing
. takes time to get it all set up . however i was in 1972-76 so way our of date its just one of those things you wonder about . thank you . plus you really have to fight for your benefits .
Eric, my biggest problem is not the time as an beginner. Big Question is what alternate wood can i use? Can i use Pine for the first try, its cheap and a smaller risk in losing money in the learning stage? And can i use 4 or 6 pieces for the top and the back? Plywood for the back? I have no big bandsaw to resaw wood in only 2 pieces, my tablesaw cuts only 3.5 inces in the height. What should I do, Eric? Thank you for your very informative channel. See you, Vic.
I would not recommend using pine. It is a nightmare to work with. I appreciate the sentiment to save money because you will make mistakes. However, if you spend just a little bit more you can get 2nd grade cherry, or sapele or mahogany, or 2nd grade sitka spruce. The primary reason (before tone comes into the picture) these woods are choice is for their workability and stability. I would set your sights just a little bit higher so that you are atleast in that category, because there is nothing of value to learn from struggling through the problems associated with highly unconventional woods like pine, and it will only make you resent the craft. Get 2nd grade wood from a luthier supplier and you won't regret it.
Also, that way you can skip the resawing. You can't effectively (or safely) resaw without a bandsaw anyway.
Hey Eric my name is Mike and I'm going build my first guitar, I am a fellow Pennsylvanian as I live in the Poconos which u are not to far from me but I am looking for a place around u or I to get tonewood do u have any recommendations that are good but won't break the bank
Hey Mike,I really like Hearne Tonewoods in Oxford, PA. Now Oxford isn't really northeastern pa. It's actually near the border of Maryland. It's a little less than a 2 hour drive for me, but it's worth it. They really have everything you could want there. It's like a candy store for luthiers. Also, I don't know about 'not breaking the pocket'. I think their prices are right for what they have. Nothing is overpriced but you're also not going to find some bargain basement finds. Although sometimes there are some B and C grade stuff that can be salvaged and in that case you would get a pretty great deal.I hope that helps!
Hey Eric can you talk a little about the placement of the neck and tail block
Do you have a specific problem or question about the blocks?
@@EricSchaeferGuitars yeah this might be a dumb question but once I have it centered where do I place them?
@@dantebadia5792 once you have what centered?
Man, I figured a few days... Maybe weeks... I guess if it was easy, everyone would do it..
The problem we encounter in Australia is that for the price of just the back and sides I can purchase a really nice complete guitar. Is is possible to purchase the ply wood the use for cheaper guitars as that would be a great cost benefit for me. It's the actual making of the instrument that I like. I don't actually care if it's a great playing guitar for my first. Just to have a go really.
There is probably a certain type or grade of plywood used for inexpensive guitars. I don't know enough about that, however, to know where to get it or what to look out for. I will say, though, that the process for building those guitars is, of course, a factory process and it is very different from the process you would go through making one at home. I think you may run into certain problems in a handbuilding situation where, for example, you sand through a layer of veneer into an alternating layer.
I think you would probably be better off sourcing low grades of inexpensive solid wood. In fact, you might find it to be actually cheaper than the plywood would be. For us, here in the us, that would be woods like cherry and poplar. I'm not sure what it would be for you. I just think you'll find that solid woods are more conducive to the process of handbuilding.
@@EricSchaeferGuitars OK thanks for that
the hardest thing is seeing my wallet suffer from collecting all these tools that i need
Interesting! Does that little furry apprentice help you speed up? :)