You make my day with this advice; I spend many hour trying to find the reason my stihl chainsaw won’t start, so I replaced the gas, and works like magic! Definitely Stilhl’s doesn’t like old gasoline! 😅
Stihl Farm Boss would not start for nothin' the other day.( I had not used it since last year). Dumped out fuel and refilled with the fuel I mixed last year. Still no luck! I dumped out that fuel and purchased fresh, TruFuel 50:1 in the can and voila! after 3 or 4 pulls, the saw started up and is running like a champ! Had no idea the saw is that sensitive to stale fuel. Thanks for posting this video!
I had the same problem and took mine to the local hardware mechanic the next day. It started right up for him. He told me after these saws set for a long period of time the diaphragm in the carburetor can dry out. But after attempt of starting and letting it sit for an hour or two it would start no problem
Thanks. I picked one of these off the curb on my weekly "trash patrol". I find all kinds of stuff. The week before that was an antique bench grinder that just needed a new cord. Anyway I already verified spark and spark plug, compression, and clean filter. The fuel in it smelled janky so especially after seeing your results I'll swap that out next.
Thanks for posting this video. I've been using decent fuel and still having occasional problems starting my farm boss. After watching your video I poured the fuel out from the saw into a clean white container and I was shocked by the bits of black crap that were sitting in the bottom. I've given it a decent flush and problem is now solved.
A few things: 1) When checking the spark plug for spark, it has to be "grounded" so make sure the threads are contacting metal. 2) It's not a bad idea to purchase a quart of 50:1 gasoline when trouble shooting, which should rule out stale gas. 3) I also have the MS290 & it floods easily. Sometimes I don't even need to use the choke, even if I haven't used it in months. So if it won't start, you might have flooded it at full choke, so set it to "ignition" (no choke at all), engage the brake, pull in the trigger, press your knee against the top of the chainsaw to secure it to the ground & start pulling on the cord. It might take 20 or more pulls but if it's flooded this will do the trick.
I always use Chevron 94 for my small motors and never had a problem with carbs gumming up etc. 94 was ethanol free until 2-3 years ago up here in Canada. This past spring I had a helluva time getting my 362 started and it's been sitting for 4 months since then and again it wouldn't start. Found this video and figured it was worth a try. Some fresh 94 and Stihl oil, didn't start in choke mode, turned to run and after about 6 yanks it fired up, success! Stange it didn't fire when choked buy at least I'll be able to get firewood on our fall fishing trip. Thanks for your video. 👍👍
Jesus… my MS271 wouldn’t start on the day I bought it! It’s been hard to start ever since and is not even a year old. I am really starting to doubt Stihl at this point. I started using my 25 year old one!
@@logos155 I ended up having to change the spark plug now it works every time. Also, mine is super touchy,if you choke it and keep pulling after the slightest burp it will flood if you don’t switch the choke to the middle position
Thank you! Your vid saved me a trip to the repair shop- my fuel had gone stale in the can probably because it was about 6 months old before I mixed it!
I've got a new 271 and it's a bear to start. Yes, place it on the lower setting til it burbs, then move to the next notch up; still (Stihl) hard to start ! Can also be hard to turn over when it sits for a few months. Now onto starting with the 'chain brake' on. You can forget it. It will not rev up and quickly stalls. In addition, no design should be so fuel finicky. Let me know if you're having similar problems.
Same-have 271. Since purchase it has taken like 50+ pulls to start. Stihl weedwacker is the same. All my husqvarna stuff starts immediately. Will never buy Stihl again.
Another thing to watch out for on some Stihl saws is the ground wire routing that can wear off the insulation and cause an intermittent shorting. As it slowly erodes the ground wire it becomes more frequent. Easy to check and easy to repair with a bit of electrical tape or liquid tape stuff. Just follow the wire and examine it closely. If you see any open wire, fix it. Why the Stihl engineering group decided to route it behind something that can vibrate was probably an oversight but it can be maddening to discover, thinking it's a coil going bad or the carburetor out of its proper range.
Flannel, I have a Stihl mini tiller with the same engine you are working with here and I can not get it to even fire. I can rebuild this entire engine by myself and have no hesitations as far as my ability to do it correctly. I rebuilt the carburetor and it was spotless on the inside, not one spec of dirt or debris. I am getting somewhere around 140 PSI compression. I am getting a very strong spark and the spark plug is brand new and putting out a dark blue spark. I even took the flywheel off to make sure the shear pin was not sheared off and the timing being the culprit and no such luck. I've shot carb cleaner gas and brake cleaner in the carb and once again can not even get it to fire. I tried brand new Stihl 2 cycle fuel from a Stihl dealer and still nothing. The primer bulb is working properly and filling the chamber as it should. I think I about covered everything. Got any ideas?
Thanks...exact same problem. Dumped out old fuel tried using fuel that worked with other tools. Still didn't work. Went and got new fuel like you did in the video...started on second pull!
TruFuel or VP Racing, 50-1mix in the can. They're ethanol free, with a 2 year shelf life after opening the can, and a 5 year shelf life if unopened. It's pricier, but worth it if you rarely use the small engines. You don't have to winter-prep with this fuel, meaning you don't have to empty the tank and run it dry. It won't break down. If you keep something running often, then fuel station gas will be ok. When it's getting close to the season where the machine wont be used for a good stretch, I'd switch over to the TruFuel and run through a tank or two on the last tasks, so it's in the carbs for the lengthy storage. You'll thank me later for this. 😁
Once you get the saw running hot on new fuel, you can use the old fuel in the saw. No need to toss it out unless the fuel is very old or it has too much water in it.
Don,t dispose of old fuel, its ideal for cleaning away oil dirt, cleaner in ultra sonic device in sealed container, brush cleaner, fire starter would you believe, and Molotov cocktails.
I have many Stihl machines of various types. Every so often one plays up. My MS230 chainsaw wouldn't start.I thought the spark was weak and changed the ignition coil with still no start. I had another plug,not new, but no start. Ordered new plugs in post. Next day added some premix into the plughole still no start. Last option a partly screwed in a loner type car plug,immediate start!. Put the old plug back in and it ran perfectly. These plugs are shorting when cold under compression. Took my Stiht hedge trimmer that also wouldn't start and no start. Removed plug,heated it up with little blow lamp around threaded part,not ceramic core at electrode as it can crack and drop in bore ruining engine. Anyway fitted warm plug and immediate start. I believe the chemicals in fuel ane 2 stroke oil are shorting the plugs. Yes change them but this top tip will get you running. It's also possible that water in fuel is mitigated by this very old school trick.
I use nothing but Non Ethanol super in all my power equipment and in my ford f250 460 when pulling a heavily loaded trailer in the mountains (we live between the Pacific mountain range and the Cascade range). Yes, the fuel cost more but worth not having the headaches.
use alcohol free fuel , and start every month for a minute or two...this is a must for all small engines, if small engine has a shutoff turn it off and let it run itself out...especially on generators..
Number 1 - spark plug. If I’m not going to be using my saw for several months. I empty all the fuel out and run the saw until all fuel is through the lines and allow saw to die. The carb and lines will gunk up if your running ethanol. Anytime your using mixed oil and it’s been sitting ALWAYS mix it good shaking from side to side. Every 100 hours new spark plug. I bought a “ newish “ Ms251 and still tinkering with it.
Having tool box only for chain saws. New plugs, new fuel filters, new air intake filters, new chains one new drive sprocket. Then chain files. Small common screwdriver for carb adj.
Start next time in the Fall. I use pure gasoline, no alcohol, fill the tank with the pure gasoline with Stihl oil and STA-BIL. Crank the saw and let it run for 3 or 4 minutes. In the Spring empty the fuel out, again fill with pure gasoline, Stihl oil and this time Seafoam, then crank. This has worked for me for years!
I have what is basically a brand new stihl ms880 and im currently having this issue. Ive had the saw for a couple years but have only had the chance to use it 2 or 3 times. I have never had an issue starting it until now that it has sat for about year. I will definitely be getting new gas.
What is it about Stihl lately? I have a Stihl saw, and a Husqvarna 450. The Husky starts every time--no matter the quality of the fuel. The Stihl is a constant pain, and is so temperamental.
Hello, This is an excellent video that allowed me to same time & money. With the same model, exactly same issue. Checked the sparkplug which was ok, wanted to check the carburator, when I saw this video. I remove fuel and gave a chance to Stihl MotoMix....and it works! What I dont understand is that other Stihl tools have no problem, but this chainsaw is really dependent upon the fuel quality.
Ran into the exact same problem with my Stihl saw, and my mix was made with ethanol free fuel. 2 other 2-cycle engines ran just fine with the stuff so I assumed something was wrong with the saw. It was kind of a last ditch effort to try a different batch of fuel before starting to get into the carb, etc. and who would of thought - on the 3rd pull it 'hit', I clicked the control lever up 1 position and it fired right up & ran like a champ. I guess these Stihl saws are pretty finicky on what fuel they want.
for some reason the saw is more tempermental than any other Stihl product I have owned. I have to use at least 89 octane in this saw. Meanwhile, I can use old 87 octane on the other Stihl machines and they all start on the first pull
Something is up with Stihl ... My old saw starts like a champ. My new one, last 6 months MS391 was a bear to start and wouldn't idle if it did start. Now I am starting my saws for maintenance and the new one won't even chirp ...
Great video. Thanks for posting. My MS251 Wood boss is 3 years old, and has always been a Mother to start. Most times I would give up on it, use my Husqvarna for a few hours or day, then MAYBE the Stihl would start. I put some fresh fuel added to the old fuel In the saw, that was there for a year I guess. It absolutely would not start. Pulled the spark plug, vented the cylinder with a half dozen pulls. No start. Finally, I did what you said. Dumped all the fuel into my outboard motor tank. Bought the $10 a liter canned 92 Octane Pure Fuel Premix. Stihl started right up. I'll never use anything else in this POS saw from now on. My Husqvarna runs fine on the old fuel NOT a Stihl fan. My dealer was no help at all, and wanted $70 to do a service on the Shihl. One $10 can of Trufuel premix, and back on track.
In addition to well mixed fresh fuel, I'd just add that Stihl recommends gasoline with a rating of 89 (mid grade) or higher. Lower octane ratings may cause your saw to not run as good but their main concern for recommending a higher octane rating is to protect your engine from being damaged. Fuel with lower than 89 octane rating causes the engine to run hotter which increases the chance of seizing the piston. Despite what so many believe, fuel with higher octane ratings actually have higher flash points, therefore lower octane fuels will ignite easier and/or sooner than higher octane. I have a high performance engine in my car which demands a higher octane fuel because it's a very high compression motor. If I would run 87 octane, the heat created from high compression would cause the fuel injected into the cylinder to ignite before the spark plug fired (known as a ping or knock). I recently checked the compression on my Stihl chainsaw and it was 165 psi, which I consider to be in the mid to high compression range for a chainsaw.
This was a surprise problem. Fuel stabilizer might help. Another problem could be ethanol in the fuel. Ethanol absorbs water over time and the water sinks to the bottom of the tank. Then when it starts the carb sucks the water-ethanol mixture instead of gasoline. If it sits long enough the ethanol can convert to ethanoic acid and corrode metal parts. The fuel Stihl sells contains no ethanol.
It is great that you shared your experience and showed exactly what to do to fix a fuel problem. That could save an expensive trip to the shop for repair. Thanks for doing a public service by posting this informative video.
@@achunable Some premium gas is ethanol-free but governments everywhere are trying to force people to use ethanol blends. Check online to see if the brand you intend to buy is free of ethanol.
Man uyou just saved me a lot of worry. Did all these same things.. watched your video and said screw it.. dumped the gas and put new. bingo. Thank you~!!
My Farm Boss isn't starting the next day after using and I don't see a boot my my plug... I thought I remember there being one?? It's just the round wire clip jabbed into the spark plug wire. I see a a spark, so likely no factor?
I try to only run engineered fuel seems to do the trick but if I let her sit for too long I’ll still have to dump fuel, pull the plug and crank it a bunch of times to clear the lines then let it sit with the plug out for a few hours before reassembling and repriming the lines and it’ll jump to life
Good video on poor fuel quality. You had me at "aren't the birds loud?" Thank you for properly starting the saw on the ground w/your boot in the handle. However, please never start a chainsaw w/o the chain brake on - you could see the chain move when you were pulling the cord. I think that contributed to the hard starting. If that saw started running and kicked back when you were least expecting it, that would be bad. Always start a saw with the chain brake on, and engage the chain brake every time the saw is not actively cutting wood. Also, I swear by the pre-mix fuel cans from Husqvarna or Stihl. That fuel is precisely blended with the proper ratio of 2-stroke oil, it is ethanol free, and is stabilized for up to 2 years of storage. I use the Husqvarna version that is available at LOWE'S in my Husqvarna 480BTS leaf blower and it starts every season on the second pull (and has very little 2-Stroke smoke) Otherwise, thanks for a good video.
I always thought they start better without the brake on.? I love my old Pioneer saws, they dont have a chain brake, which to be honest most of my saws stall out with the brake on I've gotten used to just shutting them off when I gotta move about or talk with another, I suppose I never trusted the chain brake like Id never trust a rifle safety, good video.
@@johnny-james I have never started any chainsaw with the brake on. I will never start a chainsaw with the brake on. Kickback only occurs when the blade is in something. Sometimes they're stubborn to get going. I damn sure don't need a chain brake adding to the problem. 🤣🤣
I've done this and it still won't start had this problem ever since I bought the damn thing I literally empty it every time and now it still won't work
I've always regretted buying my farm boss. I've got other Stihl products that just run but the farm boss should have been named the fussy baby when it comes to cranking and running on that same gas the others don't care about.
Never use gas with ethanol. I also use Seafoam and Marvel. My 041 is 35 years old. Still runs, but I retired her as she was starting to fall apart. I like to mix a little rich, about 2 gallons instead to 2 and a half.
I water-wash the gasoline, then decant the gas off of the top, leaving the ethanol / water on the bottom. I never use gas in my 2-smokes any more, ,, , I use MotoMix or Truefuel.
Our fuel here in the UK doesn't suffer from these problems even when many years old. An old Honda Generator started fine and run out a full tank of fuel that was over a5 years old !! The addition of Ethanol to fuel is a killer of machinery.
I store all mine with the stihl premix and haven't had a fuel issue starting them the first time for the season. Just dump any remaining ethanol fuel, run it dry, then add the premix and run for a couple of minutes before storing. For my other machines I use sta-bil (I actually add it to every can I fill) and have never had a fuel issue when first starting them either. Also, my stihl two strokes are no't picky about their fuel either, so maybe your carb does need cleaned out?
@@flannelguydiy6458 well, since it's been two years since you made the video and haven't had problems with the carb, I'm gonna say you're right haha! Good job presenting your troubleshooting process btw; videos like yours have gotten me out of a pickle more than once.
Check your exhaust screen also... if it's plugging up it will bog.. just found this out on ms311... thought it was the carb, nope.. exhaust was plugged
It’s vert common that ANY petrol engine does not like to run on old fuel. In my 1970’s Triumph car I leave it with full tank over the winter plus I add a something called “fuel stabiliser” to the tank to make sure the fuel does not go stale. Modern petrol has ethanol in it and this can go stale in as little as 30 days…
Use super unleaded it lasts a year + even with the ethanol... regular only lasts 1 month in any single cylinder engine .. it just wont run but u can use it in your car or something with more then 1 cylinder ..i did the test ik what im talking about...2.6 ounces of oil to 1 gal of gas .and note compression can't get any lower then 140... if it does its hard as heck to start .. good compression is 150 psi... anything over 155 is a blown head gasket belive it or not. I just noticed some people say fuel stabilizer could help... NOT ,it doesn't help one bit ..its a waste of money. I been repairing small engines and a car mechanic for over 35 years
Ok just started playing this and watched the chain crawl as you tried to pull start your saw, either clutch spring is on its way out or the bearing is extremely dry.
If you have an air-compressor, the Air Filter can be taken apart and blow air from the "inside" out. (At 3:50, look closely at the lower right corner of the filter, facing us... you'll see two nibs in the molding. (Same on the other side.) Twist a flat-bit screwdriver on those nibs to separate the halves.) The two halves snap back together.
@@flannelguydiy6458 There is no man more knowledgeable than one open to learning something new. He's the most intelligent man in the room. I know this so well bc my bf is a stubborn know-it-all that costs himself SO MUCH time. His way is the only way and I want to run my head thru a wall sometimes. Ughhh Anyway ended up here bc I'm doing some covert research on his saw not starting. Thanks for the info!!!!
I have one of those Farmtec Holzforma G660's that is a cheap Chinese clone of the Stihl MS660. That thing will not start if I try to run the premixed fuel or slightly old mixed gas. It will only crank and run on fresh mixed gas.
I love my Stihl...when it works but honestly the chainsaws are a nightmare to start. I paid $450 for a farm boss and it floods if you look at it wrong. Can't tolerate fuel more than a month old. AND it complains about my cooking. WTF Stihl. Figure out how to start a chainsaw. My Ryobi starts with old tar. It is a horrible saw but it starts. Figure it out.
That's all well and good, but what is your suggestion when the STIHL MS-290 runs great and then won't start at all??? Let it sit for two hours while you split the logs you just cut and it'll start right up after an hour or so. WHY???
My 290 will do the same thing. Vapor locking. Try taking off the gas cap, let it set for a few seconds, then try it. Not saying yours is vapor locking, just saying having the same saw as you do, doing the same thing, and what I do works. And, usually have to choke it to start. I've learned over time how my 290 acts...oh by the way, do you notice say your cutting wood, and let it idle for say 1 minute or so, and start cutting, and it lags, boggy, bottoms out, or dies? Mine does this, again, vapor locking. That is when I notice it, and when it bogs a bit, I rev the saw up 3 or 4 times pretty good, and it straightens up and works like it ought to. Might try and see, it's free and easy.
@@getdusty1 Yep, try that. And also, problems can come up when the screen in the muffler stops up with carbon, making the saw bog, and sometimes won't start. You may know this, but in case, take the nuts off the muffler, dig in there get the screen out, see if it's clogged, and burn that carbon off with a torch. I use a torch on a 1 lb. propane bottle, and it'll clean right up within a minute. With this gas thing in the video, maybe somehow I'm getting good quality gas at the 100% pump, but I've never had fuel to go bad. I mix up 5 gallons at a time before winter, and it'll last me quite a while, any leftovers, I use in spring for the weed eater. But, I mix my oil more like 45:1 instead of 50:1 ratio, I've done that now for 45 years in Stihl saws, never had an issue with bad gas, esp back in those days when we had good gas, but even today, never issues. And I use Quaker State 2 cycle oil in my Stihl's, I have 3 of them. Stihl oil is a joke really, Stihl is not in the business of making bar or fuel mix. Look at the bottle of Stihl 2 cycle, they used to say Made for Stihl by Valvoline...something of that wording. Just some tips from an old fart that's cut heaps of firewood for 45 years, hope it helps, have a good one!
I only run high test non ethanol fuel and echo synthetic oil in my chainsaws n weed eater. If I have to dump fuel out I use a funnel with a screen n dump into my tractor 🚜 then I just top it off with a gallon of high test fuel. It doesn't matter if some oil is in the gas your engine will burn it off. Just don't do it a lot. Zoom zoom
I have a new Stihl chainsaw bought last year and know zero about it. Naturally, I went to the manual as it was very hard to start. Use fresh fuel, 89 octane, with quality oil. Stihl discourages additives that may damage plastic parts. Fyi.
Your buying the wrong gasoline. After three carburetor & cylinder block replacements at $200.00 per. to fix my Billy Goat leaf blower, my Authorized Cub Cadet Dealer repair guy shared a secret with me. Seek out & find "REC" gasoline, mix that with your Stihl oil. Your machinery will just purr & always start, even after the seasons with no stabilizers either A decade ago, I use to drive 30 minutes away from my house to buy "REC" gasoline. Nowadays I can buy it right down the street at my local Marathon station. Sometimes, people working at the station don't even know what it is. I put that gas in everything except my car. Use it mixed with oil or straight. Like me, you will think (this guy is nuts) How can there be special gas. Try it &Like me, you will believe.
I have a stihl ms250 that i bought 1 year and 2 days ago. I started it the other day. It ran fine. Went to the mountains, and would not start (about 3,000 fo0t elevation change). Came back home, drained fuel from combustion chamber (pulled plug, turned upside down, and pulled chord until all flooded gas was out). Stihl wont start. Judging by the comments, stihl quality has gone to 💩 . That's too bad. I had a stihl ms250 (same saw) that i bought in 07. Ran great on regular gas (10%ethanol included) for 14 years, and replaced with a new $400 saw. What a disappointment!
Mines brand new and im having a very hard time getting a full pull..it stop after about 6 inches,I have blisters on my fingers...never had this kin of problem with my other stihl saws...
I have a ms250 cut firewood everyday. Was cutting fine then instantly stopped.now not starting.. I think we doubled up on 2stroke mix. What must I look at
Amazing how fuels today is crap....I deal with dozens of small engines repair... and 9 out of 10, issues with those small engines is fuel related. I tell and show people with ethanol and methanol additives in fuel...how that fuel absorbes moisture... people wonder why and how water gets into the fuel.. just set a glass jar on a work bench with fuel in it...most often, the fuel will go cloudy within a minute... What is that...well that is the ethanol and methanol based fuel sucking in moisture....
Edit to the info below- drained the gas completely and partly filled with new non-alcohol. Started on the 7th pull. Same problem with my new (6 mo) 391. I’ll get new gas and try tomorrow. Meanwhile I grabbed my 35 year old 044 and it started on the 3rd pull with nasty old gas from last spring still in it. I dropped the two cherry trees I needed and am having a nice cold brew Tell me again how the new tech is better?
It probably took that long for the first batch of fuel you replaced it with to work its way through. I have the same saw and it became unreliable after 10 years. I replaced air filter, spark plug, fuel filter, fuel line and carburetor and now it runs like the first day I bought it. I'm a retired firefighter and I've worked with a lot of hand crew guys and I never realized before talking to some of them about it, how commonplace it is to simply throw a new carburetor in out in the field.
or - - MAYBE THE DEER WERE LOOKING FOR SOME OLD GAS..... ( my fav part was his ending confession... " I am not a chainsaw expert" ....... honesty is sometimes priceless
It's incredibly easy to flood that saw. Most videos tell you to place the saw in full choke (cold start) and pull the starter till the saw burps, then go to half choke and pull starter till saw starts. I've flooded my saw using this method. I have found that pulling the starter more than 4 times with the saw in full choke floods my saw. I have found with my saw that if it doesn't burp after two pulls at full choke, setting the control to half choke and pulling 4 to five times will result in a burp or a start. I NEVER go back to full choke. Use the same rule with half choke - if no burp or start after 4 or five pulls go to warm (run) position and keep pulling. Saw will run rough for a few moments but let it sputter. I let mine run for 30 to 45 secs to build up heat and burn off excess fuel before touching the throttle trigger. Last resort, set control in run position, hold throttle wide open, and pull starter as many as 30 times to resolve flooded carb/cylinder. These saws (Stihl) are quite sensitive to cold conditions and can be very finicky to start in cold temps. Make sure your fuel is fresh (Moto Mix is best) and NEVER use oxengenated (Contains Ethenol) fuel when making premix in a can. If you can't find or don't have non Ethenol fuel available, use Moto Mix or another pre formulated canned fuel. Don't forget to check the bar oil reservoir before every use, and ALWAYS engage the blade brake when starting the saw with one knee on the ground, and the other foot partially in the handle. One of the worst accidents I ever saw with a chain saw occured with a non running saw being started improperly!
@@kweidnernc want to say that this is some of the best advice, especially if you have a new saw. Saw engines seem very prone to flooding in general, and the instructions for all of the chainsaws I've used have been either vague or wrong (in the case of my Poulan Pro, the indicated instructions would flood the engine!) Another thing is that if you flood the engine once (i.e. you mess up and pull too many times on full choke) you need to either open it up and clear it out, or wait a good while before trying again (I waited a day!) When I first tried starting it, I had the lever in the wrong position - the 'how to start' instructions are not terribly explicit in the Stihl manual, and I ended up mixing up the right positions and numbers of pulls, which led to the saw not starting the first day (I did not take it apart, instead decided to wait.) -- waiting for the engine to clear and then doing exactly as you said got it to start the second day like a charm.
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You make my day with this advice; I spend many hour trying to find the reason my stihl chainsaw won’t start, so I replaced the gas, and works like magic! Definitely Stilhl’s doesn’t like old gasoline! 😅
Stihl Farm Boss would not start for nothin' the other day.( I had not used it since last year). Dumped out fuel and refilled with the fuel I mixed last year. Still no luck! I dumped out that fuel and purchased fresh, TruFuel 50:1 in the can and voila! after 3 or 4 pulls, the saw started up and is running like a champ! Had no idea the saw is that sensitive to stale fuel. Thanks for posting this video!
I had the same problem and took mine to the local hardware mechanic the next day. It started right up for him. He told me after these saws set for a long period of time the diaphragm in the carburetor can dry out. But after attempt of starting and letting it sit for an hour or two it would start no problem
Thanks. I picked one of these off the curb on my weekly "trash patrol". I find all kinds of stuff. The week before that was an antique bench grinder that just needed a new cord. Anyway I already verified spark and spark plug, compression, and clean filter. The fuel in it smelled janky so especially after seeing your results I'll swap that out next.
Thank you my friend. My problem was the same as yours. I dumped the old gas and refueled with True Fuel 94 octane and it brought the saw back to life.
thanks for watching
Have you seen Texas chainsaw massacre?
No. I'm scared. @@nazahelbrum3318
@@nazahelbrum3318ethanol massacred all the old saws in Texas. Great documentary!
Thanks for posting this video. I've been using decent fuel and still having occasional problems starting my farm boss. After watching your video I poured the fuel out from the saw into a clean white container and I was shocked by the bits of black crap that were sitting in the bottom. I've given it a decent flush and problem is now solved.
thanks for watching!
@@flannelguydiy6458 mi
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@@flannelguydiy6458 excellent video. Happy new year 2024!! Soy Nuevo en TU canal.
Uuu
A few things:
1) When checking the spark plug for spark, it has to be "grounded" so make sure the threads are contacting metal.
2) It's not a bad idea to purchase a quart of 50:1 gasoline when trouble shooting, which should rule out stale gas.
3) I also have the MS290 & it floods easily. Sometimes I don't even need to use the choke, even if I haven't used it in months. So if it won't start, you might have flooded it at full choke, so set it to "ignition" (no choke at all), engage the brake, pull in the trigger, press your knee against the top of the chainsaw to secure it to the ground & start pulling on the cord. It might take 20 or more pulls but if it's flooded this will do the trick.
Are all stihls 50:1 gas mix? I've been using 40:1 and it's been working until today!
@@josephkuser3998 - Yes, 50:1
Your bullet point #3 just saved me a lot of frustration. Thank you!
@@thromo415 👍
Starting chainsaw
I always use Chevron 94 for my small motors and never had a problem with carbs gumming up etc. 94 was ethanol free until 2-3 years ago up here in Canada.
This past spring I had a helluva time getting my 362 started and it's been sitting for 4 months since then and again it wouldn't start. Found this video and figured it was worth a try.
Some fresh 94 and Stihl oil, didn't start in choke mode, turned to run and after about 6 yanks it fired up, success! Stange it didn't fire when choked buy at least I'll be able to get firewood on our fall fishing trip.
Thanks for your video. 👍👍
Jesus… my MS271 wouldn’t start on the day I bought it! It’s been hard to start ever since and is not even a year old. I am really starting to doubt Stihl at this point. I started using my 25 year old one!
Just bought a 271 new yesterday and when choked it won't burp and very hard to start. About to take it Back and buy a 455 Rancher
These chain saws won't start not a fan. I'm getting another craftsman. Started everytime
My still SUCKS too!!
@C Dub yup
@@logos155 I ended up having to change the spark plug now it works every time. Also, mine is super touchy,if you choke it and keep pulling after the slightest burp it will flood if you don’t switch the choke to the middle position
Thanks for the advice…I tried to start mine for over an hour with no luck watched this video and changed the gas and third pull she started 😅
Thank you! Your vid saved me a trip to the repair shop- my fuel had gone stale in the can probably because it was about 6 months old before I mixed it!
thanks for watching...
Great job with you maintenance diagnostics! Just a small tidbit, always add SEAFORM additive to your 91% octane gasoline or higher fuel used.
I personally like Startron.
I've got a new 271 and it's a bear to start. Yes, place it on the lower setting til it burbs, then move to the next notch up; still (Stihl) hard to start ! Can also be hard to turn over when it sits for a few months. Now onto starting with the 'chain brake' on. You can forget it. It will not rev up and quickly stalls. In addition, no design should be so fuel finicky. Let me know if you're having similar problems.
MYSELF AND 2 OTHER PEOPLE I KNOW HAVE THE SAME ISSUES, BRAND NEW FROM THE STORE, 2 DIFFERANT MODELS. I'LL NEVER BUY ANOTHER
Same-have 271. Since purchase it has taken like 50+ pulls to start. Stihl weedwacker is the same. All my husqvarna stuff starts immediately. Will never buy Stihl again.
Always check the exhaust ports for mud dauber nests. I've had my fair share of no starts from that reason alone, while living in TN.
Another thing to watch out for on some Stihl saws is the ground wire routing that can wear off the insulation and cause an intermittent shorting. As it slowly erodes the ground wire it becomes more frequent. Easy to check and easy to repair with a bit of electrical tape or liquid tape stuff. Just follow the wire and examine it closely. If you see any open wire, fix it. Why the Stihl engineering group decided to route it behind something that can vibrate was probably an oversight but it can be maddening to discover, thinking it's a coil going bad or the carburetor out of its proper range.
Flannel, I have a Stihl mini tiller with the same engine you are working with here and I can not get it to even fire. I can rebuild this entire engine by myself and have no hesitations as far as my ability to do it correctly. I rebuilt the carburetor and it was spotless on the inside, not one spec of dirt or debris. I am getting somewhere around 140 PSI compression. I am getting a very strong spark and the spark plug is brand new and putting out a dark blue spark. I even took the flywheel off to make sure the shear pin was not sheared off and the timing being the culprit and no such luck. I've shot carb cleaner gas and brake cleaner in the carb and once again can not even get it to fire. I tried brand new Stihl 2 cycle fuel from a Stihl dealer and still nothing. The primer bulb is working properly and filling the chamber as it should. I think I about covered everything. Got any ideas?
Make a boat anchor out of it.
I think you need at least 89 octane... or more
@@flannelguydiy6458 No one really reads.
Thanks...exact same problem. Dumped out old fuel tried using fuel that worked with other tools. Still didn't work. Went and got new fuel like you did in the video...started on second pull!
Glad it helped....now you can help me by sharing this video on Facebook
TruFuel or VP Racing, 50-1mix in the can. They're ethanol free, with a 2 year shelf life after opening the can, and a 5 year shelf life if unopened. It's pricier, but worth it if you rarely use the small engines. You don't have to winter-prep with this fuel, meaning you don't have to empty the tank and run it dry. It won't break down. If you keep something running often, then fuel station gas will be ok. When it's getting close to the season where the machine wont be used for a good stretch, I'd switch over to the TruFuel and run through a tank or two on the last tasks, so it's in the carbs for the lengthy storage. You'll thank me later for this. 😁
Thanks I been useing vp in my saws trimmer blower was wondering about how long the fuel is good
Every time I get my STIHL out,first thing I do is put on my JOCK STRAP. They are a pain to start!
Get you the new E stihl - easy to start.
Worst saw I ever owned.
Plus the foot hold is tiny.
You’re not doing it right Rookie!
Read directions 😂
Once you get the saw running hot on new fuel, you can use the old fuel in the saw.
No need to toss it out unless the fuel is very old or it has too much water in it.
This was/is a 'worthwhile' video. Thank you!
Wow! What a lovely setting you have in your 'backyard'; God is Good!
Thank you so much!
Tell that to Palestine
Don,t dispose of old fuel, its ideal for cleaning away oil dirt, cleaner in ultra sonic device in sealed container, brush cleaner, fire starter would you believe, and Molotov cocktails.
Don't.
I have many Stihl machines of various types. Every so often one plays up. My MS230 chainsaw wouldn't start.I thought the spark was weak and changed the ignition coil with still no start. I had another plug,not new, but no start. Ordered new plugs in post.
Next day added some premix into the plughole still no start. Last option a partly screwed in a loner type car plug,immediate start!. Put the old plug back in and it ran perfectly. These plugs are shorting when cold under compression.
Took my Stiht hedge trimmer that also wouldn't start and no start. Removed plug,heated it up with little blow lamp around threaded part,not ceramic core at electrode as it can crack and drop in bore ruining engine. Anyway fitted warm plug and immediate start. I believe the chemicals in fuel ane 2 stroke oil are shorting the plugs. Yes change them but this top tip will get you running. It's also possible that water in fuel is mitigated by this very old school trick.
thanks for watching! please share the video
I use nothing but Non Ethanol super in all my power equipment and in my ford f250 460 when pulling a heavily loaded trailer in the mountains (we live between the Pacific mountain range and the Cascade range). Yes, the fuel cost more but worth not having the headaches.
thanks for watching
Only 5.25 gallon. Eliminates lots of fuel problems.
use alcohol free fuel , and start every month for a minute or two...this is a must for all small engines, if small engine has a shutoff turn it off and let it run itself out...especially on generators..
Pay a little bit more up in new Hampshire for ethanol-free fuel but it's worth it
Number 1 - spark plug. If I’m not going to be using my saw for several months. I empty all the fuel out and run the saw until all fuel is through the lines and allow saw to die. The carb and lines will gunk up if your running ethanol. Anytime your using mixed oil and it’s been sitting ALWAYS mix it good shaking from side to side. Every 100 hours new spark plug. I bought a “ newish “ Ms251 and still tinkering with it.
Having tool box only for chain saws. New plugs, new fuel filters, new air intake filters, new chains one new drive sprocket. Then chain files. Small common screwdriver for carb adj.
Start next time in the Fall. I use pure gasoline, no alcohol, fill the tank with the pure gasoline with Stihl oil and STA-BIL. Crank the saw and let it run for 3 or 4 minutes. In the Spring empty the fuel out, again fill with pure gasoline, Stihl oil and this time Seafoam, then crank. This has worked for me for years!
thanks for watching
When adding fresh 50;1 with stabil, use a paper paint filter in your funnel ... eliminates starting and carb problems...
Beautiful looking place you have. Greetings from Wales!
Old fuel was my issue, changed, kicked up third pull... may thanks for the knowledge!!
thanks for watching...
I have what is basically a brand new stihl ms880 and im currently having this issue. Ive had the saw for a couple years but have only had the chance to use it 2 or 3 times. I have never had an issue starting it until now that it has sat for about year. I will definitely be getting new gas.
Dude you might be my new hero I'm going to try that as soon as I get home
What is it about Stihl lately? I have a Stihl saw, and a Husqvarna 450. The Husky starts every time--no matter the quality of the fuel. The Stihl is a constant pain, and is so temperamental.
it is the chainsaws that are the problem. All of the other stihl machines start on the first pull
I use a 2 stroke oil with stabilizer in it, or you can buy stabilizer separate, it works wonders, helps prevent these starting problems
Hello,
This is an excellent video that allowed me to same time & money. With the same model, exactly same issue. Checked the sparkplug which was ok, wanted to check the carburator, when I saw this video. I remove fuel and gave a chance to Stihl MotoMix....and it works! What I dont understand is that other Stihl tools have no problem, but this chainsaw is really dependent upon the fuel quality.
Typical Stihl chainsaw not just hard to start but VERY HARD TO START!
I usually have no issues...
@@flannelguydiy6458 I have one with less than 100 hours and now it won't start with the $16 a pint Stihl brand fuel.
@@flannelguydiy6458 I sure do.
Ran into the exact same problem with my Stihl saw, and my mix was made with ethanol free fuel. 2 other 2-cycle engines ran just fine with the stuff so I assumed something was wrong with the saw. It was kind of a last ditch effort to try a different batch of fuel before starting to get into the carb, etc. and who would of thought - on the 3rd pull it 'hit', I clicked the control lever up 1 position and it fired right up & ran like a champ. I guess these Stihl saws are pretty finicky on what fuel they want.
for some reason the saw is more tempermental than any other Stihl product I have owned. I have to use at least 89 octane in this saw. Meanwhile, I can use old 87 octane on the other Stihl machines and they all start on the first pull
Something is up with Stihl ... My old saw starts like a champ. My new one, last 6 months MS391 was a bear to start and wouldn't idle if it did start. Now I am starting my saws for maintenance and the new one won't even chirp ...
Great video. Thanks for posting. My MS251 Wood boss is 3 years old, and has always been a Mother to start. Most times I would give up on it, use my Husqvarna for a few hours or day, then MAYBE the Stihl would start. I put some fresh fuel added to the old fuel In the saw, that was there for a year I guess.
It absolutely would not start. Pulled the spark plug, vented the cylinder with a half dozen pulls. No start.
Finally, I did what you said. Dumped all the fuel into my outboard motor tank. Bought the $10 a liter canned 92 Octane Pure Fuel Premix. Stihl started right up. I'll never use anything else in this POS saw from now on. My Husqvarna runs fine on the old fuel
NOT a Stihl fan. My dealer was no help at all, and wanted $70 to do a service on the Shihl. One $10 can of Trufuel premix, and back on track.
My thoughts, exactly. My Husky starts like a charm, every time.
Bought a brand new stihl 311...not impressed, nothing but problems!
saw your video today tried new gas on my farm boss and it started first time thanks
In addition to well mixed fresh fuel, I'd just add that Stihl recommends gasoline with a rating of 89 (mid grade) or higher. Lower octane ratings may cause your saw to not run as good but their main concern for recommending a higher octane rating is to protect your engine from being damaged. Fuel with lower than 89 octane rating causes the engine to run hotter which increases the chance of seizing the piston. Despite what so many believe, fuel with higher octane ratings actually have higher flash points, therefore lower octane fuels will ignite easier and/or sooner than higher octane. I have a high performance engine in my car which demands a higher octane fuel because it's a very high compression motor. If I would run 87 octane, the heat created from high compression would cause the fuel injected into the cylinder to ignite before the spark plug fired (known as a ping or knock). I recently checked the compression on my Stihl chainsaw and it was 165 psi, which I consider to be in the mid to high compression range for a chainsaw.
This was a surprise problem. Fuel stabilizer might help. Another problem could be ethanol in the fuel. Ethanol absorbs water over time and the water sinks to the bottom of the tank. Then when it starts the carb sucks the water-ethanol mixture instead of gasoline. If it sits long enough the ethanol can convert to ethanoic acid and corrode metal parts. The fuel Stihl sells contains no ethanol.
yeah I used to deal with the water/ethanol issue when I had my boat.
It is great that you shared your experience and showed exactly what to do to fix a fuel problem. That could save an expensive trip to the shop for repair. Thanks for doing a public service by posting this informative video.
Find and purchase Real Gas that's Ethanol free and your small engines with thank you with better performance and longer life
doesn't premium gas have no ethanol? if you go with that, no need for a stabilizer.
@@achunable Some premium gas is ethanol-free but governments everywhere are trying to force people to use ethanol blends. Check online to see if the brand you intend to buy is free of ethanol.
Man uyou just saved me a lot of worry. Did all these same things.. watched your video and said screw it.. dumped the gas and put new. bingo. Thank you~!!
thanks for watching! please share the video
Great video! Bless you for reading all the inane comments. Some folks just can't be reached...
Great video. Thank you very much. I definitely have very old fuel. Subscribed.
You need to earth the spark plug on the cylinder head (preferably) to see if you actually do have spark.
My Farm Boss isn't starting the next day after using and I don't see a boot my my plug... I thought I remember there being one?? It's just the round wire clip jabbed into the spark plug wire. I see a a spark, so likely no factor?
I try to only run engineered fuel seems to do the trick but if I let her sit for too long I’ll still have to dump fuel, pull the plug and crank it a bunch of times to clear the lines then let it sit with the plug out for a few hours before reassembling and repriming the lines and it’ll jump to life
thank you for watching
Good video on poor fuel quality. You had me at "aren't the birds loud?" Thank you for properly starting the saw on the ground w/your boot in the handle. However, please never start a chainsaw w/o the chain brake on - you could see the chain move when you were pulling the cord. I think that contributed to the hard starting. If that saw started running and kicked back when you were least expecting it, that would be bad. Always start a saw with the chain brake on, and engage the chain brake every time the saw is not actively cutting wood. Also, I swear by the pre-mix fuel cans from Husqvarna or Stihl. That fuel is precisely blended with the proper ratio of 2-stroke oil, it is ethanol free, and is stabilized for up to 2 years of storage. I use the Husqvarna version that is available at LOWE'S in my Husqvarna 480BTS leaf blower and it starts every season on the second pull (and has very little 2-Stroke smoke) Otherwise, thanks for a good video.
thanks for watching
I always thought they start better without the brake on.? I love my old Pioneer saws, they dont have a chain brake, which to be honest most of my saws stall out with the brake on I've gotten used to just shutting them off when I gotta move about or talk with another, I suppose I never trusted the chain brake like Id never trust a rifle safety, good video.
@@johnny-james I have never started any chainsaw with the brake on. I will never start a chainsaw with the brake on. Kickback only occurs when the blade is in something. Sometimes they're stubborn to get going. I damn sure don't need a chain brake adding to the problem. 🤣🤣
Wish these asshole companies would invent a chainsaw that actually starts once in a while
Good catch ! Nice job
Thank you very much!
Stihls are very tempromental to fuel octane levels, always empty and dry store chainys when not using them for a long time,,,,
I've done this and it still won't start had this problem ever since I bought the damn thing I literally empty it every time and now it still won't work
That is why I spend the extra money and buy non ethanol gas just for my saws
me too, , , ,and mowers
Good explanation. I often saved my old fuel and used this old fuel to clean my car parts
I've always regretted buying my farm boss. I've got other Stihl products that just run but the farm boss should have been named the fussy baby when it comes to cranking and running on that same gas the others don't care about.
Sorry you not happy. Just saying my Farm Boss works great. It needed broke in now has plenty of power.
Never use gas with ethanol. I also use Seafoam and Marvel. My 041 is 35 years old. Still runs, but I retired her as she was starting to fall apart. I like to mix a little rich, about 2 gallons instead to 2 and a half.
I water-wash the gasoline, then decant the gas off of the top, leaving the ethanol / water on the bottom. I never use gas in my 2-smokes any more, ,, , I use MotoMix or Truefuel.
Our fuel here in the UK doesn't suffer from these problems even when many years old.
An old Honda Generator started fine and run out a full tank of fuel that was over a5 years old !!
The addition of Ethanol to fuel is a killer of machinery.
Uk is so much better than usa
Yeah the Untied States can thank the tree huggers from California for the ethanol in our fuel
I store all mine with the stihl premix and haven't had a fuel issue starting them the first time for the season. Just dump any remaining ethanol fuel, run it dry, then add the premix and run for a couple of minutes before storing. For my other machines I use sta-bil (I actually add it to every can I fill) and have never had a fuel issue when first starting them either. Also, my stihl two strokes are no't picky about their fuel either, so maybe your carb does need cleaned out?
the carb is fine, this saw just needs higher octane. Older fuel loses octane.
@@flannelguydiy6458 well, since it's been two years since you made the video and haven't had problems with the carb, I'm gonna say you're right haha! Good job presenting your troubleshooting process btw; videos like yours have gotten me out of a pickle more than once.
@@thebrokenclock3001 thanks for watching and for commenting back. It would help if you can like and share the video. Much appreciated
Thanks for the video I’ll try this today
Check your exhaust screen also... if it's plugging up it will bog.. just found this out on ms311... thought it was the carb, nope.. exhaust was plugged
I have a Tanaka blower and trimmer and I have always used TruFuel.
thanks for watching
The deer did it sneaky bastards
Enzyme treatment helps, A farm boss hasn't a primer bulb , but Stihl are still the best
It’s vert common that ANY petrol engine does not like to run on old fuel. In my 1970’s Triumph car I leave it with full tank over the winter plus I add a something called “fuel stabiliser” to the tank to make sure the fuel does not go stale. Modern petrol has ethanol in it and this can go stale in as little as 30 days…
Great Job! That did the trick....
Use super unleaded it lasts a year + even with the ethanol... regular only lasts 1 month in any single cylinder engine .. it just wont run but u can use it in your car or something with more then 1 cylinder ..i did the test ik what im talking about...2.6 ounces of oil to 1 gal of gas .and note compression can't get any lower then 140... if it does its hard as heck to start .. good compression is 150 psi... anything over 155 is a blown head gasket belive it or not. I just noticed some people say fuel stabilizer could help... NOT ,it doesn't help one bit ..its a waste of money. I been repairing small engines and a car mechanic for over 35 years
thanks for watching...
Very helpful. Thanks!
I’ve seen the can fuel get some saws going that were not staying on.
Good video. Trouble I have is pulling rope. Did what was on video. Everything else checked out
Using the stihl motomix premixxed fuel works for me. Might be cheaper options i suppose
Ok just started playing this and watched the chain crawl as you tried to pull start your saw, either clutch spring is on its way out or the bearing is extremely dry.
If you have an air-compressor, the Air Filter can be taken apart and blow air from the "inside" out. (At 3:50, look closely at the lower right corner of the filter, facing us... you'll see two nibs in the molding. (Same on the other side.) Twist a flat-bit screwdriver on those nibs to separate the halves.) The two halves snap back together.
thanks for the info...
@@flannelguydiy6458 There is no man more knowledgeable than one open to learning something new. He's the most intelligent man in the room. I know this so well bc my bf is a stubborn know-it-all that costs himself SO MUCH time. His way is the only way and I want to run my head thru a wall sometimes. Ughhh Anyway ended up here bc I'm doing some covert research on his saw not starting. Thanks for the info!!!!
They should invent non pull start chainsaws
90% of the new ones are. You do a slow pull and then it starts on the release
Electric?
Thanks for the tip. I face the same problem too. I change the fuel. It work. Do I have to empty the chainsaw oil if not using a longtime?
the chainsaw oil will make no difference. Hopefully you used SUPER high octane fuel.
@@flannelguydiy6458 ....thanks for the information.
Ethanol free only !!!!!! With some stabile you will never have starting problems
I love the edited in photo on the front cover lol
Would the octane be a cause as well? I got 87 fresh octane and new 50:1 oil and still mine won't start. So what octane for a 024AV saw from 1992?
Yes absolutely... you should go with Premium (the most octane you can get) fuel for these machines.
I have one of those Farmtec Holzforma G660's that is a cheap Chinese clone of the Stihl MS660. That thing will not start if I try to run the premixed fuel or slightly old mixed gas. It will only crank and run on fresh mixed gas.
M tronics is adjusting to the good fuel only, STIHL is great but picky about fuel!
I love my Stihl...when it works but honestly the chainsaws are a nightmare to start. I paid $450 for a farm boss and it floods if you look at it wrong. Can't tolerate fuel more than a month old. AND it complains about my cooking. WTF Stihl. Figure out how to start a chainsaw. My Ryobi starts with old tar. It is a horrible saw but it starts. Figure it out.
You're flooding the thing! You put choke on until it fires once and then you take it off or end up with a flooded chainsaw every time.
this whas helpfull.very helpfull.
That's all well and good, but what is your suggestion when the STIHL MS-290 runs great and then won't start at all??? Let it sit for two hours while you split the logs you just cut and it'll start right up after an hour or so. WHY???
My 290 will do the same thing. Vapor locking. Try taking off the gas cap, let it set for a few seconds, then try it. Not saying yours is vapor locking, just saying having the same saw as you do, doing the same thing, and what I do works. And, usually have to choke it to start. I've learned over time how my 290 acts...oh by the way, do you notice say your cutting wood, and let it idle for say 1 minute or so, and start cutting, and it lags, boggy, bottoms out, or dies?
Mine does this, again, vapor locking. That is when I notice it, and when it bogs a bit, I rev the saw up 3 or 4 times pretty good, and it straightens up and works like it ought to.
Might try and see, it's free and easy.
Thanks Dale. I'll hafta give it a try.
@@getdusty1 Yep, try that.
And also, problems can come up when the screen in the muffler stops up with carbon, making the saw bog, and sometimes won't start. You may know this, but in case, take the nuts off the muffler, dig in there get the screen out, see if it's clogged, and burn that carbon off with a torch. I use a torch on a 1 lb. propane bottle, and it'll clean right up within a minute.
With this gas thing in the video, maybe somehow I'm getting good quality gas at the 100% pump, but I've never had fuel to go bad. I mix up 5 gallons at a time before winter, and it'll last me quite a while, any leftovers, I use in spring for the weed eater.
But, I mix my oil more like 45:1 instead of 50:1 ratio, I've done that now for 45 years in Stihl saws, never had an issue with bad gas, esp back in those days when we had good gas, but even today, never issues.
And I use Quaker State 2 cycle oil in my Stihl's, I have 3 of them. Stihl oil is a joke really, Stihl is not in the business of making bar or fuel mix. Look at the bottle of Stihl 2 cycle, they used to say Made for Stihl by Valvoline...something of that wording.
Just some tips from an old fart that's cut heaps of firewood for 45 years, hope it helps, have a good one!
You are a cool guy!
I only run high test non ethanol fuel and echo synthetic oil in my chainsaws n weed eater. If I have to dump fuel out I use a funnel with a screen n dump into my tractor 🚜 then I just top it off with a gallon of high test fuel. It doesn't matter if some oil is in the gas your engine will burn it off. Just don't do it a lot. Zoom zoom
Simple !!!! Good. !!!! Thanks !!!!
great video, you're a natural
Thanks bro 😊
Any time
I have a new Stihl chainsaw bought last year and know zero about it. Naturally, I went to the manual as it was very hard to start. Use fresh fuel, 89 octane, with quality oil. Stihl discourages additives that may damage plastic parts. Fyi.
Thanks for sharing
Your buying the wrong gasoline. After three carburetor & cylinder block replacements at $200.00 per. to fix my Billy Goat leaf blower, my Authorized Cub Cadet Dealer repair guy shared a secret with me. Seek out & find "REC" gasoline, mix that with your Stihl oil. Your machinery will just purr & always start, even after the seasons with no stabilizers either A decade ago, I use to drive 30 minutes away from my house to buy "REC" gasoline. Nowadays I can buy it right down the street at my local Marathon station. Sometimes, people working at the station don't even know what it is. I put that gas in everything except my car. Use it mixed with oil or straight. Like me, you will think (this guy is nuts) How can there be special gas. Try it &Like me, you will believe.
Ethanol fuel is horrible for 2 cycles buy the pre mixed or ethanol free fuel and mix your own. Also a BIG fan of Sea Foam for lengthy storage periods.
I have a stihl ms250 that i bought 1 year and 2 days ago. I started it the other day. It ran fine. Went to the mountains, and would not start (about 3,000 fo0t elevation change). Came back home, drained fuel from combustion chamber (pulled plug, turned upside down, and pulled chord until all flooded gas was out). Stihl wont start. Judging by the comments, stihl quality has gone to 💩 . That's too bad. I had a stihl ms250 (same saw) that i bought in 07. Ran great on regular gas (10%ethanol included) for 14 years, and replaced with a new $400 saw. What a disappointment!
Mines brand new and im having a very hard time getting a full pull..it stop after about 6 inches,I have blisters on my fingers...never had this kin of problem with my other stihl saws...
sounds like you may need to take it back to the dealer
I have a ms250 cut firewood everyday. Was cutting fine then instantly stopped.now not starting.. I think we doubled up on 2stroke mix. What must I look at
Amazing how fuels today is crap....I deal with dozens of small engines repair... and 9 out of 10, issues with those small engines is fuel related. I tell and show people with ethanol and methanol additives in fuel...how that fuel absorbes moisture... people wonder why and how water gets into the fuel.. just set a glass jar on a work bench with fuel in it...most often, the fuel will go cloudy within a minute... What is that...well that is the ethanol and methanol based fuel sucking in moisture....
thanks for watching...
Edit to the info below- drained the gas completely and partly filled with new non-alcohol. Started on the 7th pull.
Same problem with my new (6 mo) 391.
I’ll get new gas and try tomorrow. Meanwhile I grabbed my 35 year old 044 and it started on the 3rd pull with nasty old gas from last spring still in it. I dropped the two cherry trees I needed and am having a nice cold brew
Tell me again how the new tech is better?
new is not always better. thanks for watching...
It probably took that long for the first batch of fuel you replaced it with to work its way through. I have the same saw and it became unreliable after 10 years. I replaced air filter, spark plug, fuel filter, fuel line and carburetor and now it runs like the first day I bought it. I'm a retired firefighter and I've worked with a lot of hand crew guys and I never realized before talking to some of them about it, how commonplace it is to simply throw a new carburetor in out in the field.
or - - MAYBE THE DEER WERE LOOKING FOR SOME OLD GAS.....
( my fav part was his ending confession... " I am not a chainsaw expert"
....... honesty is sometimes priceless
I got a new MS291 Stihl. It's always taken a while to start(longest was 10 minutes) but when it does run its great. Idles fine.
if I have good fuel, my saw starts right away
It's incredibly easy to flood that saw. Most videos tell you to place the saw in full choke (cold start) and pull the starter till the saw burps, then go to half choke and pull starter till saw starts. I've flooded my saw using this method.
I have found that pulling the starter more than 4 times with the saw in full choke floods my saw. I have found with my saw that if it doesn't burp after two pulls at full choke, setting the control to half choke and pulling 4 to five times will result in a burp or a start. I NEVER go back to full choke. Use the same rule with half choke - if no burp or start after 4 or five pulls go to warm (run) position and keep pulling. Saw will run rough for a few moments but let it sputter. I let mine run for 30 to 45 secs to build up heat and burn off excess fuel before touching the throttle trigger.
Last resort, set control in run position, hold throttle wide open, and pull starter as many as 30 times to resolve flooded carb/cylinder.
These saws (Stihl) are quite sensitive to cold conditions and can be very finicky to start in cold temps. Make sure your fuel is fresh (Moto Mix is best) and NEVER use oxengenated (Contains Ethenol) fuel when making premix in a can. If you can't find or don't have non Ethenol fuel available, use Moto Mix or another pre formulated canned fuel.
Don't forget to check the bar oil reservoir before every use, and ALWAYS engage the blade brake when starting the saw with one knee on the ground, and the other foot partially in the handle. One of the worst accidents I ever saw with a chain saw occured with a non running saw being started improperly!
@@kweidnernc want to say that this is some of the best advice, especially if you have a new saw. Saw engines seem very prone to flooding in general, and the instructions for all of the chainsaws I've used have been either vague or wrong (in the case of my Poulan Pro, the indicated instructions would flood the engine!) Another thing is that if you flood the engine once (i.e. you mess up and pull too many times on full choke) you need to either open it up and clear it out, or wait a good while before trying again (I waited a day!) When I first tried starting it, I had the lever in the wrong position - the 'how to start' instructions are not terribly explicit in the Stihl manual, and I ended up mixing up the right positions and numbers of pulls, which led to the saw not starting the first day (I did not take it apart, instead decided to wait.) -- waiting for the engine to clear and then doing exactly as you said got it to start the second day like a charm.
Are all stihls 50:1 gas mix? I've been using 40:1 and it's been working until today!
My troy bilt uses 40:1 and runs great.
Exactly what it was, thanks