Everything you need to know about shell cordovan care
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- Here is a video covering everything you need to know about the most common shell cordovan shoe care. How to condition shell cordovan, fix a scratch in shell cordovan and remove rain spots from shell cordovan.
Chapter
0:00 - Everything you need to know about shell cordovan care
Favorite Links & Resources:
www.purepolish...
www.horween.com
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www.meccariell...
shoegazing.com
www.epidemicso...
Equipment:
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Tripod - www.peakdesign...
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#shoegazing #horween #horweenshellcordovan #shellcordovan
I always love to hear your thoughts and questions in the comments.
@shellvedge on Instagram
/ shellvedge
Such a good demonstration of the important keystones of shell care
Thanks ash! When I can’t decide which shoe I just go with both in one video 😄. I thought it would be good to try to cover some of the same as I had before but in a bit quicker and more watchable amount of content. Appreciate it!
Thank You!!!
The back of a spoon with some conditioner and some elbow grease works for me to get the rolls and spots taken care of.
Fantastic! That’s all that matters
From being in my jeans hip pocket, my shell cordovan wallet picked up some minor scratches. I tried some Bick 4 and a touch of water which eliminated the scatches some but also the shine. I just ordered some Saphir Cordovan cream hoping it helps. Once I get the cream what steps should I take to restore my wallet's luster and natural beauty??? This is my first Shell Cordovan item and I don't have a clue how to restore it. "THANK YOU" for any input.
Yeah I’d avoid most product on shell because it usually has some ingredient (varies product to product) that’s going to sit on the surface and make it cloudy. For wallets I personally do nothing for them and it is just fine. If you insist on doing something, I’d use a cotton cloth (old t shirt) and a few drops of water and just buff away until you’re happy.
Sorry if I missed it - how often do you condition shell? The loafers turned out really well.
Thank you! Yeah they did turn out much better than expected! It really depends on wear and environment. But usually
You can tell just by feeling them or brushing them and how quickly the luster returns vs brushing and it not really reacting very much. I’d say if worn 2/3 times a week, 4-6 weeks at a minimum, maybe 8-12. All depends on the environment you’re in, and how much they’re really being stressed or exposed to moisture.
@@Shellvedge wow that’s way more than I thought, but it explains why yours have so much more shine than mine. Many thanks.
Amazing video and care, I've been contemplating buying some hides in natural shell and doing an MTO build once I finish my weight loss goal. Gives me something to work for but care has always been murky for me. Shell is definitely a less is more but the basics help, thanks for the tutorial.
Also I am truly a fan of the Chukkas! Thanks for showing both of them off! Out of curiosity what would something like Saphir Super Invulner do to shell?
I have always heard the two arguments with Shell. Those who advocate Venetian Shoe Cream, water and nothing else. Then those who recommend maybe a once a year very light Saphir Reneuvateur, Cordovan Polish, and Pate Deluxe for the water resistance/shine/and scuff resistance.
I was wondering what your personal preference was? Maybe something else altogether?
Personally I only have experience with Horween Essex, Chrome Excel, Dublin, Predator Leathers. Wickett and Craig's lineup, CF Stead, SB Foot, Seidel, and a lot of different calfskins.
I will admit to lacking experience with Shinki, Horween's Shell Cordovan (probably was obvious but I might as well state it), and Badalassi Carlo, and some of the more exotics. Bison, Ostrich, Water Buffalo, Kangaroo, etc.
I'm sort of hitting the wall of my collection and have begun to prioritize quality over quantity. I was debating Horween Shell Cordovan for the final goal and one more leather and go full bespoke. I figured a 7" pair of dress boots(for when I need it) and an Engineer for my final work boot.
I've been trimming my collection down and trying to get it to more manageable levels. The goal is once I sell what I don't want, nor use to focus on doing a full bespoke build. Sorry if this is all TMI, it's just rare to see such a knowledgeable channel and I am glad I stumbled across yours. Consider yourself subscribe and liked. I'll try and slowly go through the back library of your videos as I can. My apologies if my questions were already answered in-depth someplace else. Thank you again.
Appreciate that! Glad to hear you found it helpful! I will definitely respond to it all shortly. But for the care guide, I wouldn’t spray shell cordovan with anything, it’s just not really needed and will only cause worse spotting on top of the leather. I’d stick with either a clean conditioner (meaning no complex solutions you don’t know what is included) and wax on the toe and heel only. VSC, is popular because that’s what horween uses but it doesn’t necessarily make it the best or most beneficial product. They use what is most suited for a production facility, and producing solid, consistent, fast and easily repeatable results. Once you have them, you don’t need that, and can really use something that will be best for leather care vs leather production.
I’ll elaborate on the next reply. 🙏🏻
@@Shellvedge You're very welcome and helpful indeed! I was shocked to see a fast reply! I've been perusing your videos further as well. I saw one of your videos mentioning pure polish, I'm not as familiar but something to look into. I saw they are out of Bend, Oregon which isn't too far away relatively. I live in the Pacific Northwest Boot Capitol with Nick's, White's, JK's, and Frank's all within a half an hour or so.
As a follow up to your statements. I never quite understood the appeal of Venetian Shoe Cream or Balm? I mean it is a one and done process so to speak, but other than people who enjoy that aspect it always leads to darkening overtime. Horween I believe only uses it as a final step in the buffing process of shell. They also happen to use a glass roller and as you said the company that produces Venetian is right next door. Better shoe care products are out there.
The problem then leads to companies like Alden who then coat the Shell further after the fact. But agreed, Shell has much better things than Venetian. I have found better products for Red Wing's SB Foot leathers than their own recommended shoe care supplies as well.
I'm not a fan of Venetian having used it on Cognac Chrome Excel before. I've also used Saphir's Medaille D'or 1925 Oiled Leather Cream in Neutral for my favorite results on Chrome Excel. While the shine wasn't as robust, I did find the conditioning and color uniformity to be better overall. So many people use Renuevateur on a combination tanned, hot stuffed leather, and it baffles me. Overall I prefer a stiffer leather, I've grown to love Wickett and Craig's Oiled Latigo as my current favorite! I ended up giving away or selling all my Chrome Excel boots. I just didn't care for the Patina and how they broke in. That was part of downsizing the collection.
But sure, please take the time you need and I will appreciate the elaboration. My reply might come sometime later tomorrow but I do appreciate it.
On another note I have a pair of Horween Brown Essex Boots I am entering into the Stitchdown's Patina Thunderdome. They were supposed to be Chocolate colored, but the particular tannage I received almost looks more light Olive colored than Brown. Batches aren't always consistent and it is unique. They will be work boots though.
On a background I do physical labor for a living, and work in a warehouse environment, of course snow and winter are soon coming as well. I'm sort of stumped as what to condition the Essex Boots with when the time comes? I've debated going simple with Saphir's Nappa Balm but have little experience with this leather, the closest Horween leather was Dublin in the past. Which is easier to figure out due to it's high wax content. Smith's Leather Balm worked the best for Dublin at leasyt. All I know is for Essex, it is Vegetable Tanned through a similar process to Shell, not exposed to any waxes, and has oils but locked deep within and is a drier leather, it seems extremely soft.
Any suggestions on care for the Essex? I get I asked about Shell Cordovan already so we could postpone that discussion. If not I am not one to averse from maintenance but I am definitely not afraid to put them to hard labor for the fun of Stitchdown's Patina Thunderdome either. They are a 10" pair of Nick's I had made to order prior to the pandemic.
It's all very much appreciated, and I look forward to seeing how you answer everything. Thanks for the efforts and please feel welcome to take your time. Thanks for the guidance on Shell as well. It will save me time, money, and heartache in the long run. I've tried to learn as much as I can from the Good Year Welt, Style Forum, etc. Unfortunately, I found that a lot of people more just use products without questioning why. Or often contradicted one and other. I appreciate the fact you're like me and try to go beyond that.
Saphir was what I was previously leaning towards until I stumbled into you mentioning pure polish. For context I used to predominantly wear calfskin for years. I used to work more of a less strenuous job and wore calfskin Allen Edmonds, various dress boots, and used the Saphir Shoe Care products primarily while occasionally experimenting with something new. A suitable wardrobe and a few other places rarely had it in stock before the hanger project took off. So this was quite a few years ago. I actually imported Saphir products directly from France at one point due to a lack of suppliers and unable to find a feasible alternative(this was the mid 2000's. I got more into work leathers after that and my dress leathers instead got pushed back to church, date night, or black tie events.
Thanks once again and I look forward to learning more from you!
@@Vultain I may need an entire video series to answer all of this lol. Let me digest all the info and I will weigh in. But the leather care for me is simple. I only use pure polish as it’s a non toxic leather care product series that I have found to out perform in true leather care as well as the aesthetic it provides. It’s stronger than anything you’ll find in a mass produced manufacturer. But there’s nuance to using it.
@@Shellvedge I appreciate it. But I hear you on that angle when it comes to things. Thanks again for the response, my apologies for being overwhelming.
For a bit more background overall most of the time I am in work boots with work leather these days, and I have found depending on the tannage Saphir's Medaille D'or 1925 Oiled Leather Cream in neutral for that and dominant oil content in the hide it works great. I have found nothing better for Wickett and Craig's Oiled Latigo leather, Chrome Excel, combination tanned leathers, Oil tanned leathers, Seidel's line, or most of SB foot leathers. It doesn't leave a film. It smells more like Apricot Oil than anything else in Saphir's line. A completely different beast from the rest of their line along with the gentle cleanser(great for a patina and mild cleaning) smells like cocoa. I know it was the most recent edition to the line and I have yet to find anything else remotely as good at maintaining what the factory intended with such leathers.
And for work heritage leathers more on the smooth waxy side such as Horween Dublin, Wickett and Craig Harness/H Latigo/Latigo, I have very much enjoyed Smith's Leather Balm. It sounds very similar in composition to Pure Polish. Beeswax, Almond Oil, and Cocoa butter. It doesn't darken very much, smells like cocoa instead if oranges, and as you said there is a nuance to using it. A lighter yet full coverage coat is better, working it in with your thumb slowly in circles, as is copious brushing and letting it soak in for a day or even 3 days before adding a second light coat. When done that way I put them in boot bags and find the wax cures and no residue remains. A bit overkill but I have enough boots it doesn't affect my rotation and lasts a very long while between maintenance applications.
So having more finally finished the work boot leathers. I was looking into calfskin, or shell. Maybe Wickett snd Craig's English Bridle which is far more suitable for being polished as well. Wickett and Craig holds an amazing patina given time and a richness and depth similar to Shiki Horsehide or Shell that you simply don't find on most other leathers.
So thanks for answering on the pure polish, I was wondering if the wax paste polish(not high shine) is safe to apply to the whole boot like Saphir's Pate Deluxe for a singular coat? Or if you would instead be better to only focus on the toe and quarters to avoid cracking? I saw a comment in the reviews and it was recommended only to use the neutral cream on the whole boot or the cleaner conditioner, then again I wasn't sure if he used the high gloss/mirror shine by mistake?
For now though, if you could only answer the most immediate important question what would you use for Horween Essex? Or better yet what should I order? Information seems scarce and I always try to maintain a leather more as how the tannage was. Horween Essex has me truly baffled though as to how to maintain it. 🤔 Stitchdown starts on October 1st and I get that the Patina Thunderdome is not for dress leathers but I'd still happily take whatever you recommend for that leather. Still pure polish? If so, I figured I'd have to pickup new brushes, and products when the time comes otherwise. Less than 10 days isn't a lot of time.
I did checkout the pure polish site and noticed their patina kit too. Is this what you recommend for Essex or something else? I was hoping they would get the regular neutral paste polish back in stock instead of just the mirror shine polish. Time will tell though.
Once again thanks for your expertise. Sorry for the slow response, between work, and a few important events I missed your response earlier. Take care and I do hope you had an enjoyable weekend. If you decide to ever make a video series on what I've been asking you have my full attention! 😂😁 It would be awesome but for now I will slowly take my time watching your videos as I can. Thanks for your content, especially on Shell I have yet to see anyone as thorough as you!
@@Vultain I really do appreciate how engaged you are here! Stay tuned later this afternoon, I’ll go through all of your comments/questions and my answers in a video. I’m sure all of this information contains aspects everyone would want to know so might as well make it a video 🙏🏻
I just bought a lightly used pair with rain spots. Gonna condition lightly
If you were to have one tool to smooth the cordovan, would it be the ebony stick, a deer bone or what is your top pick?
Ebony stick. It’s just fully optimized for exactly this use and really only this use.
@@Shellvedge alright, thank you. I have my first pair of cordovan boots on the way from C&J. Will have to get something like this
No buffing with a cloth?
You can use one if you prefer that
I usually do so after using the brush. @@Shellvedge
laughing at the hashtag shoegazing 😂🎸
Great video! Who made the shoes! They’re beautiful! Ebony stick? Where can you find? Just subscribed to your channel!
Hi I'm sorry if I missed it but what conditioner did you use?
Pure polish cleaner conditioner.
what's the brand/make is your water dispenser?
Mason and smith
thanks! @@Shellvedge
Are those loafers from carmina? They look great!
Acme! Thank you
How do I care for indentations from a pocket clip of a knife I’m so mad I should’ve kept my wallet completely separate from my pocket knife
We’re these not treated with protectant prior to the rain spots or are rain spots inevitable when it comes to shell cordovan?
I believe this is generally considered a bad idea given that cordovan itself is already lacks the same level of porosity that calf does. To that end, traditional products used to waterproof shoes probably wouldn’t be in the interest of the long term health of the cordovan unless you were willing to strip it off every time you needed to condition or polish them? Of course shellvedge may have a better idea!
@@carmina776 thank you, but in past videos he used the pure polish protectant and recommended it. So I was wondering if maybe for content he decided not to treat these or if it’s inevitable that water spots will seep into shell
Yea Jon, Mike, shells will vary batch to batch and maybe even within a batch all depending on the characteristics of the shell and how old even the rinse is that the shells are dipped in. Then there’s the shoemaker finishing, and all the elements it’s been exposed to that contribute to it. It’s kind of a crap shoot. These buffed up rather effortlessly and I’d attribute it to the more natural finishing from acme, meaning they don’t apply a heavy plastic covering like some factory makers do (think Alden, CJ, Carmina…) also, these boots hadn’t been touched for probably 3-4 months except a quick brushing before I put them on for the day. So the product that was on there had probably evaporated off, or was a moot factor by this point.
I’d avoid any sprays on smooth leathers shell or calf, you don’t want to seal any of those pores as it will not actually water proof then it will just create a temporary barrier that breaks as soon as pressure is applied to the leather. The water resistant cream from pure polish is a good all in 1 alternative because it doesn’t seal it, just provides a mix of the waxes, conditioner and oils needed to hydrate the leather and pores, without actually
Covering them. But it’s still not a full proof option.
Would I be crazy to use Rocado shell cordovan boots as my winter boots?
Why would that be crazy?
@@Shellvedge people always taking about the water spotting like it will ruin the appearance of the boots. Just don't want to make a bad investment I guess.
Hi..
I have a question
is Horse rump leather the same as Cordovan? if not, then, does Horse rump crease?
Thank u !
2 different leathers. Some horse hide may still contain the shell in the fiber structure but not every hide or tannery does it that way.
@@Shellvedge
Thanks.
I need some advice, if you don't mind.
there is this Indonesian show maker called Benzein, and they make the best looking Chelsea boots that I have ever seen. I'm really considering buying a pair, but it's Horse rump leather from a tannery in Japan I believe .
Do you think the leather is good and easy to take care of?
It's 545 $ with shipping ( to Saudi Arabia). I don't want to pay that and get low quality and cheap looking leather.
@@ibrahimalzahrani4587 it’s hard to say without knowing the exact leather but I’ve heard decent things about the boot maker. Just have to keep in mind they’re a workwear brand not a dress boot. So the leather characteristics will be much different than a dress boot. If you know the tannery that could help
@@Shellvedge
The tannery is Shinki Hikkaku from Japan
@@ibrahimalzahrani4587 I’ve heard good things. I wasn’t a fan of the shell, but I really prefer horween for shell
Can I use saddle soap to clean shell cordovan ?
Don't.
@@1911Zoey 🙏
I know this video is a little older but I was wondering where you bought your ebony stick as I can't seem to find any online? I can find deer bone but that seems a bit gruesome to keep in my shoe shine box to be honest.
Thanks!
Check Rocky Mountain leather supply. It’s not ebony but they have Cocobolo wood.
@@Shellvedge thank you, I've found it! And would you say there's a large variation in quality because I did find something similar near my place for a similar price. It seemed a little bit uneven of a surface.
@@DavakiDnD I’m not sure I know which you’re referring to. But the Cocobolo wood from Rocky Mountain is very good, it’s also very reasonably priced. The ebony would still be my 1st choice but it is also only found at Brift H shoe shine bar in Japan and cost over $250. So removing that option from the equation, I’d recommend the Cocobolo sleeker. I’d have to see the other option to weigh in.
@@Shellvedge Understood, that's what I will go for then! Thank you very much, and happy holidays!
can you provide a vendor link?
Hey, it’s called Brift H, it’s a shoeshine store in Japan.
@@Shellvedge Thank you very much
Hey man I love your videos about shoes and earlier I told you about a boil on your neck that I was worried about.. well it's moved. It's now on the front part of your neck if you're wondering where it went.
what is an ebony stick
It’s just exactly what it sounds like. It’s a stick like object made out of really ebony
It's a stick made of really a dense ebony wood.
Reality we can all afford a nice pair of boots like that put two dollars aside for the whole year of every day and total that and you’ll be able to buy a pair of boots
Fair point! It boils down to whether or not it means that much to you to save it for that purpose or rather use it for a new camera. Or a new camera and new shoes. Or new shoes, camera and.. uh I digress lol.
But yes, great point!