So, I had this Ford Focus come into my shop that had intermittent no communication with PCM. I found the culprit and I had to share it! I hope you enjoy the video!
Yeah, I have this same issue. This is where the factory grounded them on the 1st few models including the SVT Steeda. They even had the ground wire tied into throughout the entire wiring harness. Common problem with that is it does not need to that intertwined with every sensor. Capped it off at that point in the video and redone the ground altogether and it was easy and works better. Problem now is being the ground is intertwined I cannot just replace the battery ground, I'll have to buy a whole wiring harness to fix the electrical problem.
Thanks,, will check mine out .. When its Zero out the battery light goes away, when my car was on a lift for all new tires the battery light disappeared for 3 days... Damn Ford....
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO where are you located..I have one for you! ... 2003 ford focus wagon.... Massive CLICKING... will not start, starter solenoid "clicks when key is turned" .... brand new fully charged battery draws down...and is insufficient to run anything as the whole system "clicks" on and off electric power rapidly...only able to run door locks, etc. WITH a charger on boost.... Every relay pulled no change. Every fuse pulled no change. Computer just replaced - no change. *Going to disconnect red/power leads to alternator AND THEN battery next...*
@@1truthseeking8 We have a 2003 wagon as well, almost 400k mi... we have had Plenty of electrical issues,including a current one: ABS/brake dash lites are on and its Not a wheel sensor..they are all giving a signal and data...code B1342 says abs module is bad but its intermittently healed itself, no lites, then come back on again.... Geez! as far as ur issue, obviously a severe parasitic draw is draining ur battery ... You have already pulled the fuses..Im assuming you did this with the underhood box AS Well as the driver side interior fuse panel.. Could be a bad Main battery wiring harness as ours was melted in spots...Disconnecting the positive connection to alternator is a good bet but check that entire main harness, just replace it if suspicious.. its like 50 bucks for new battery harness...
do you think the tape on the springs was an attempt to lower the car?! Seriously though, my (99 RHD 1.8 16v) right sidelights aren't working (fuse was blown and replaced), the main beam and dipped beam indicator lights are gone in the dash binnacle (they do still work - just not with the lights/self-test as i took off the crusty OSF wing earth to clean and they lit up) and when i put full beam on, only the left lights, the right does not. I'm going to look under the battery as the earths in the boot are fine. The only thing that wasn't factory were the front sidelights that I'd replaced with "imported" capless LED 's. the right one had a I think resistor fall off it but I don't know if that blew the fuse. The left plays a random disco but it still gets power. I just replaced the switch incase the LED fried it but no beans and as the sidelights are affected I don't think it's the dim/dip switch. It's an odd one. but not as odd as an earth strap fixed down with a plastic panel clip. That's some next level shit tbf man. Though sadly not very surprising...
As long as he got paid. Frustrating though that someone who has worked on the car doesn't know or care enough about the basics. It ends up making all mechanics look bad.
How much money did this person drop at the dealership? I seen grounds cause problems all the time. I run into a bad ground where the factory paint was covering up the metal on a focus, just like what FordTechMakuloco's channel showed, where you had to sand the paint to get a better contact and christmas tree lights on the dash vanished.
I have the same car, 03 focus dohc zetec vin-3. My cooling fans will not operate! I have replaced the Coolant head temp sensor, cooling fan solenoid & wiring harness, thermostat, housing's & gaskets, water pump, timing belt & tensioner! also, I replaced 3 of the cooling fan relays & swapped the 4th one! 1 of them is a green 70 amp low speed controller-I replaced it. there are 2 smaller black relays-(I swapped out two from junk yard, & 4th relay is grey & I swapped it with my ignition relay! I ran 12v & ground to each fan & they spun however, I assumed that just maybe there was something wrong w/them & replaced them for NO REASON & STILL MY FANS DON'T RUN! I can disconnect the coolant temp sensor & both fans will run constantly & it makes the car run to cold & eventually it fries the alternator after several months so, I cut into one of my head temp sensor wires & ran a toggle switch & I can turn my fans on & off but, CAN ANYONE PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO FIX THIS ISSUE PLEASE? I REMOVED 3 GROUND WIRES, SANDED OFF PAINT & CLEANED EVERYTHING UP & REINSTALLED THE GROUNDS! 1 WAS THE ECU GROUND & THE BATTERY GROUND TO THE RIGHT OF THE BATTERY (SAME SPOT AS IN THIS VIDEO! Another on the passenger side (under the coolant overflow & a 4th ground wire up on the hook for engine removal to the strut tower! I have not driven the car since I cleaned the grounds yet but, after sanding down to bare metal, I put a coat of aluminum antiseize between the ground wire & chassis? hope that is ok??? I figure its made of aluminum so, hopefully it will conduct electricity & prevent rust all at the same time??? I tested the voltage at the cooling fan resistor & when I put my (+pos) test lead on the +pos battery terminal & test with the (-negative) test lead, I get 12.56v from both ends of the cooling fan solenoid & also, on my head temp sensor, I get 12v positive from one head temp sensor wire & 5v from the other! so, everything is getting power so,??? what am I missing? I bought an aftermarket cooling fan controller but, I don't know which one of the 2 head temp sensor wire's should I connect the aftermarket cooling fan controller up to? also, the aftermarket fan controller only has wiring & one relay to run 1 fan so, WHICH FAN IS FOR ENGINE COOLING & WHICH IS FOR A/C???? Any help is appreciated!!! I had to replace my rod bearings due to this issue once already so, I also replaced the main bearings while I was in there! I fear that I will have to do it all over if I cannot get my fans running! ANY ADVICE HELPS, THANK YOU!!!
11 months late, but, you were supposed to just buy a new "fan assembly" from ebay for $82. It will come with the new harness closest to the exhaust that always melts, it will have a new thermistor in it, and everything will come back to life properly. You want the "single connector" type when ordering.
Do what properly lol all he did was pretty much did was poimt out that the car was previously in an accident and thats how it was lime that and then the video cut out
I have several issue that all seem to happen when atmospheric temperature is above say 70-75F, and wonder if they are all related to a ground or other connection problem. Item affected are turn signals, brake lights, intermittent wipers, rear wiper(it's a wagon), auto door lock once the starts moving in drive. All of these functions work with no issues during colder fall winter spring season. but between say middle May to middle September mid morning through last evening when temperatures and car is warm most of those functions do not work. Any suggestions as to where to start the search? And I have some cold spray I want to use to test components, so what components do you think I should hose down to see if it's the one affected by the heat?
Here’s what AI (ChatGPT) says regarding your issues: When experiencing car electrical issues that are affected by temperature, it's possible that the problems are related to thermal expansion and contraction, which can affect electrical connections and components. As temperatures rise, materials expand and connections might loosen or break contact, especially in older or worn components. Conversely, in cooler temperatures, everything contracts and connections might become tighter or more secure. Given the range of issues you're experiencing - from turn signals and brake lights to wipers and automatic door locks - it's likely that a common component or system such as the vehicle's grounding, relays, or central control modules could be implicated. Here’s a step-by-step approach to diagnosing and possibly identifying the problem: ### 1. Check Ground Connections - **Grounding Issues**: Since all these functions could be impacted by poor grounding, check the main ground connections from the battery to the chassis and engine. Ensure they are clean, tight, and free of corrosion. Since these problems occur during warm weather, a poor ground might expand and lose good electrical contact. - **Component Grounds**: Check the grounds for each affected system. This could be near the rear of the vehicle for the rear wiper and lights, and inside the cabin for items like the wipers and door locks. ### 2. Inspect Relay and Fuse Boxes - **Relays and Fuses**: These are also susceptible to temperature changes. Check the main fuse box and any relay boxes (usually located under the hood and possibly under the dashboard). Look for signs of corrosion, loose relays, or damaged fuses. Press down on relays to ensure a good connection, and replace any that seem suspect. - **Central Control Modules**: Cars often have body control modules (BCM) that manage various functions like lights, wipers, and locks. If this module is malfunctioning or if its connections are poor, it could result in the issues you're observing. ### 3. Use Cold Spray - **Testing with Cold Spray**: Since you mentioned having cold spray, you can use this to diagnose heat-related failures. Focus on: - **Relay Blocks**: Spray the relays related to the affected functions. If function returns after cooling a relay, it likely needs replacement. - **BCM (if accessible)**: Carefully apply the spray to cool down the body control module when the problems are occurring. Note that you should be cautious to avoid applying the cold spray to sensitive electronics too aggressively. - **Wiring Connectors**: Any accessible large multi-pin connectors could also be tested with the cold spray, especially those that connect to major control units or the affected systems. ### 4. Check Wiring and Connectors - **Wiring Harnesses**: Inspect the wiring harnesses that connect to the affected functions. Look for any signs of wear, fraying, or corrosion. Sometimes, insulation might crack and expose wires, particularly in areas exposed to high temperatures. ### 5. Professional Diagnosis - **Consider Professional Help**: If these approaches do not resolve the issue, consider taking the vehicle to a professional mechanic who can perform a more detailed electrical diagnostic test. They can also check for any error codes that might be stored in the vehicle’s computer systems, which can provide clues to the problem. This methodical approach should help narrow down the source of your problems, using both your observations of when the issues occur and targeted testing to identify faulty components or connections.
Yeah, I have this same issue. This is where the factory grounded them on the 1st few models including the SVT Steeda. They even had the ground wire tied into throughout the entire wiring harness. Common problem with that is it does not need to that intertwined with every sensor. Capped it off at that point in the video and redone the ground altogether and it was easy and works better. Problem now is being the ground is intertwined I cannot just replace the battery ground, I'll have to buy a whole wiring harness to fix the electrical problem.
Okay, that was unexpectedly funny! Well done, sir.
Thanks,, will check mine out .. When its Zero out the battery light goes away, when my car was on a lift for all new tires the battery light disappeared for 3 days... Damn Ford....
I'm here you never get old
Awesome vid. Thanks for the info.
Add some water for better connectivity!
This guy was happy when I fixed his car by just properly securing a ground wire. Thanks for watching!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO where are you located..I have one for you! ...
2003 ford focus wagon....
Massive CLICKING... will not start, starter solenoid "clicks when key is turned" .... brand new fully charged battery draws down...and is insufficient to run anything as the whole system "clicks" on and off electric power rapidly...only able to run door locks, etc. WITH a charger on boost....
Every relay pulled no change.
Every fuse pulled no change.
Computer just replaced - no change.
*Going to disconnect red/power leads to alternator AND THEN battery next...*
@@1truthseeking8 We have a 2003 wagon as well, almost 400k mi... we have had Plenty of electrical issues,including a current one: ABS/brake dash lites are on and its Not a wheel sensor..they are all giving a signal and data...code B1342 says abs module is bad but its intermittently healed itself, no lites, then come back on again.... Geez! as far as ur issue, obviously a severe parasitic draw is draining ur battery ... You have already pulled the fuses..Im assuming you did this with the underhood box AS Well as the driver side interior fuse panel.. Could be a bad Main battery wiring harness as ours was melted in spots...Disconnecting the positive connection to alternator is a good bet but check that entire main harness, just replace it if suspicious.. its like 50 bucks for new battery harness...
do you think the tape on the springs was an attempt to lower the car?! Seriously though, my (99 RHD 1.8 16v) right sidelights aren't working (fuse was blown and replaced), the main beam and dipped beam indicator lights are gone in the dash binnacle (they do still work - just not with the lights/self-test as i took off the crusty OSF wing earth to clean and they lit up) and when i put full beam on, only the left lights, the right does not. I'm going to look under the battery as the earths in the boot are fine. The only thing that wasn't factory were the front sidelights that I'd replaced with "imported" capless LED 's. the right one had a I think resistor fall off it but I don't know if that blew the fuse. The left plays a random disco but it still gets power. I just replaced the switch incase the LED fried it but no beans and as the sidelights are affected I don't think it's the dim/dip switch. It's an odd one. but not as odd as an earth strap fixed down with a plastic panel clip. That's some next level shit tbf man. Though sadly not very surprising...
Lolz.
I've had 4 of those cars.
Definitely doesn't ground there.
where does it ground?
Makes your life harder dealing with sloppy mechanics!!!
As long as he got paid.
Frustrating though that someone who has worked on the car doesn't know or care enough about the basics. It ends up making all mechanics look bad.
How much money did this person drop at the dealership? I seen grounds cause problems all the time. I run into a bad ground where the factory paint was covering up the metal on a focus, just like what FordTechMakuloco's channel showed, where you had to sand the paint to get a better contact and christmas tree lights on the dash vanished.
I have the same car, 03 focus dohc zetec vin-3. My cooling fans will not operate! I have replaced the Coolant head temp sensor, cooling fan solenoid & wiring harness, thermostat, housing's & gaskets, water pump, timing belt & tensioner! also, I replaced 3 of the cooling fan relays & swapped the 4th one! 1 of them is a green 70 amp low speed controller-I replaced it. there are 2 smaller black relays-(I swapped out two from junk yard, & 4th relay is grey & I swapped it with my ignition relay! I ran 12v & ground to each fan & they spun however, I assumed that just maybe there was something wrong w/them & replaced them for NO REASON & STILL MY FANS DON'T RUN! I can disconnect the coolant temp sensor & both fans will run constantly & it makes the car run to cold & eventually it fries the alternator after several months so, I cut into one of my head temp sensor wires & ran a toggle switch & I can turn my fans on & off but, CAN ANYONE PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO FIX THIS ISSUE PLEASE? I REMOVED 3 GROUND WIRES, SANDED OFF PAINT & CLEANED EVERYTHING UP & REINSTALLED THE GROUNDS! 1 WAS THE ECU GROUND & THE BATTERY GROUND TO THE RIGHT OF THE BATTERY (SAME SPOT AS IN THIS VIDEO! Another on the passenger side (under the coolant overflow & a 4th ground wire up on the hook for engine removal to the strut tower! I have not driven the car since I cleaned the grounds yet but, after sanding down to bare metal, I put a coat of aluminum antiseize between the ground wire & chassis? hope that is ok??? I figure its made of aluminum so, hopefully it will conduct electricity & prevent rust all at the same time??? I tested the voltage at the cooling fan resistor & when I put my (+pos) test lead on the +pos battery terminal & test with the (-negative) test lead, I get 12.56v from both ends of the cooling fan solenoid & also, on my head temp sensor, I get 12v positive from one head temp sensor wire & 5v from the other! so, everything is getting power so,??? what am I missing? I bought an aftermarket cooling fan controller but, I don't know which one of the 2 head temp sensor wire's should I connect the aftermarket cooling fan controller up to? also, the aftermarket fan controller only has wiring & one relay to run 1 fan so, WHICH FAN IS FOR ENGINE COOLING & WHICH IS FOR A/C???? Any help is appreciated!!! I had to replace my rod bearings due to this issue once already so, I also replaced the main bearings while I was in there! I fear that I will have to do it all over if I cannot get my fans running! ANY ADVICE HELPS, THANK YOU!!!
11 months late, but, you were supposed to just buy a new "fan assembly" from ebay for $82.
It will come with the new harness closest to the exhaust that always melts, it will have a new thermistor in it, and everything will come back to life properly.
You want the "single connector" type when ordering.
Blow it up! BOOM that'll fix it
That ground was grounded to the inside apron next to the battery, is a black with orange wire
I have a 2004 ford focus same issue but smoke comes out behind left side when trying to connect battery.
Is this ground present on all models of the mk1 focus?
+Spartan Rider Someone rigged this ground improperly. I doubt this is where the factory put this ground.
ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO I'm having a near stall issue when coming to a stop could it be a bad ground?
A bad ground could cause this problem. I would check the grounds near the battery. Those seem to be the most problematic on these cars.
You to change time vell in 2015 ford Fucos
This is how you do it properly
Do what properly lol all he did was pretty much did was poimt out that the car was previously in an accident and thats how it was lime that and then the video cut out
I have several issue that all seem to happen when atmospheric temperature is above say 70-75F, and wonder if they are all related to a ground or other connection problem. Item affected are turn signals, brake lights, intermittent wipers, rear wiper(it's a wagon), auto door lock once the starts moving in drive. All of these functions work with no issues during colder fall winter spring season. but between say middle May to middle September mid morning through last evening when temperatures and car is warm most of those functions do not work. Any suggestions as to where to start the search? And I have some cold spray I want to use to test components, so what components do you think I should hose down to see if it's the one affected by the heat?
I have same issue.
Here’s what AI (ChatGPT) says regarding your issues:
When experiencing car electrical issues that are affected by temperature, it's possible that the problems are related to thermal expansion and contraction, which can affect electrical connections and components. As temperatures rise, materials expand and connections might loosen or break contact, especially in older or worn components. Conversely, in cooler temperatures, everything contracts and connections might become tighter or more secure.
Given the range of issues you're experiencing - from turn signals and brake lights to wipers and automatic door locks - it's likely that a common component or system such as the vehicle's grounding, relays, or central control modules could be implicated. Here’s a step-by-step approach to diagnosing and possibly identifying the problem:
### 1. Check Ground Connections
- **Grounding Issues**: Since all these functions could be impacted by poor grounding, check the main ground connections from the battery to the chassis and engine. Ensure they are clean, tight, and free of corrosion. Since these problems occur during warm weather, a poor ground might expand and lose good electrical contact.
- **Component Grounds**: Check the grounds for each affected system. This could be near the rear of the vehicle for the rear wiper and lights, and inside the cabin for items like the wipers and door locks.
### 2. Inspect Relay and Fuse Boxes
- **Relays and Fuses**: These are also susceptible to temperature changes. Check the main fuse box and any relay boxes (usually located under the hood and possibly under the dashboard). Look for signs of corrosion, loose relays, or damaged fuses. Press down on relays to ensure a good connection, and replace any that seem suspect.
- **Central Control Modules**: Cars often have body control modules (BCM) that manage various functions like lights, wipers, and locks. If this module is malfunctioning or if its connections are poor, it could result in the issues you're observing.
### 3. Use Cold Spray
- **Testing with Cold Spray**: Since you mentioned having cold spray, you can use this to diagnose heat-related failures. Focus on:
- **Relay Blocks**: Spray the relays related to the affected functions. If function returns after cooling a relay, it likely needs replacement.
- **BCM (if accessible)**: Carefully apply the spray to cool down the body control module when the problems are occurring. Note that you should be cautious to avoid applying the cold spray to sensitive electronics too aggressively.
- **Wiring Connectors**: Any accessible large multi-pin connectors could also be tested with the cold spray, especially those that connect to major control units or the affected systems.
### 4. Check Wiring and Connectors
- **Wiring Harnesses**: Inspect the wiring harnesses that connect to the affected functions. Look for any signs of wear, fraying, or corrosion. Sometimes, insulation might crack and expose wires, particularly in areas exposed to high temperatures.
### 5. Professional Diagnosis
- **Consider Professional Help**: If these approaches do not resolve the issue, consider taking the vehicle to a professional mechanic who can perform a more detailed electrical diagnostic test. They can also check for any error codes that might be stored in the vehicle’s computer systems, which can provide clues to the problem.
This methodical approach should help narrow down the source of your problems, using both your observations of when the issues occur and targeted testing to identify faulty components or connections.
I think you made this sh!t up!
I wish! lol
LMAO THANKS!!
Maybe the last mechanic did this
it was difficult to hear you over the music
Wow
it was difficult to hear you over that loud music
my nigga bumping drizzy doe!!!!!!!
Haha!
Nissan maxima has no gears
No mames
😂😂 very cheap job
That's your job to fix it
So fix it and stop complaining