Broooooo…..!!!! It worked for me same issue.. and I changed light bulb on the cluster the one that’s supposed to light up the (battery AMP) on dashboard cluster.. started charging right away Thank you sir..!! 🔥🔥💯💯😎
Thank you so much for your video sir. Im shane from philippines. 2days ago i buy a surplus cluster gauge panel. The owner said it is working. So i replace mine with that. After that my battery is nit charging just today i let the electrician check and says ny batt is good the problem is the alternator. So i go home park my truck outside the gate. When im going to park it inside my truck wont start. So i charge the batt for 5mins and start it and put my truck inside my garage. I almost order new battery on it . When im lying in my bed i search on youtube and watch your video. After watching i run in my truck and replace my surplus to my old one and check it. Now its charging. You save from wrong doing of mine.
Thank you!! You helped me solve my charging issue with my 97 f150, 4.6 liter. I bypassed the tiny bulb in the instrument cluster and now getting charge to the battery, however, now the check engine light is on and the instrument cluster doesn't light up. I will eventually replace the little bulb in the cluster and see what changes. Big help!!
Sounds like a weak link in the design of the system. I'm dealing with the same thing now. I'll play with it and see if I can bypass that bulb issue. Thanks for bringing it to light (pun intended, no apologies).
@@LongWalkerActual I would try with 150ohm 2watt resistor first, then 120 or 100ohm 2watt. You may have to ramp the rpm first to get the alternator charging then it will work on idle too.
Man you are a huge help, got me back on the road when stranded when I was out of town. Quick question, is there something I can replace instead of a light bulb, that doesn't drain the battery when the vehicle is off, cause I'm tired of disconnecting the battery every time I stop driving the vehicle
Hey Bulldog, I have a 1990 Ford E-150 that has the 5.0 in it. I have the same problem with van as you are discussing. I need to find the" bad bulb". What wire are you hooking your test light up to? I had to manually wire my alternator as someone had ripped the pigtail off. So, if you could tell me which wire do I connect the test light to I would appreciate it thank you.
Could you help me with an 83 mustang alternator wire trace? It’s white with a black stripe coming from the alt. And had a push on rubber boot shaped connector. It doesn’t go to the electric choke like I’ve read. I’m thinking starter solenoid? I’m having a hell of a time getting any help on this.
It does go to the choke. It still had the rubber boot for the stock carb. It was different from any one I’ve ever seen before and not what current carb was setup for.
1997 Lincoln Town Car Limo doing this, started to clean up the feeler brushes, but I don't want to waste time... This could be issue. Intermittent starts, new battery last Summer, need help!
@@NEJunkYardGirl wouldn't cause an intermittent no-start unless it let the battery go down... battery light should be on with key on before starting the engine
Thanks it helped me figure out why the light wasn’t working but when I ground the green wire to the body of the alternator the light comes on but still not charging is grounding it to the alternator the the way to fix it
@@jamietriplett8370 if the light comes on when you ground that then the signal is getting there, that wire is supposed to switch on the regulator to make it charge, there should be ground there until the alt starts charging, I have a feeling that your alt is shot.
As to the issue of the corrosion problem, I'm a stickler for ALWAYS applying a bit of DiElectric Grease inside any and every electrical connection, regardless of the location. As an application to the sparkplug boot (either end), it eases later removal and can resist water intrusion. For electrical connections, it can greatly reduce or even prevent corrosion due to temperature and humidity, as well as rain and snow (salt spray) exposure as well. Before reinstalling replacement bulbs, I make sure to thoroughly clean the socket and terminals to remove any contaminants/corrosion and apply a fair amount to the inside base and sides of the socket before inserting a new bulb. Be careful to avoid getting the grease anywhere except the base area of the bulb, because it will most likely cause either an immediate failure, or failing that, can prevent proper cooling of the bulb which will likely also reduce the "lifetime" of the bulb. One other common failure (and often THE MOST common), is a bad or missing ground. You can get "universal" braided-type ground straps from any automotive or "tractor/farm supply" store, and simply connect one from an unused threaded bolt hole and connect 1) Engine to Firewall, 2) Engine to Frame and 3) NEG (-) Bat terminal to either Engine (Preferred) or Frame. With today's modern computer controls, A/C systems, "Power Everything" and all our "toys" (cell phone, tablets, GPS, Radar Detectors, etc), it doesn't take much to overexert older wiring that may not have taken these factors into consideration, on the "drawing board". The upside to using the "braided" strap-type cable, is no insulation to worry about charring/burning (therefore smoking) and it's a fairly cheap/easy/painless install/addition that doesn't require a wiring diagram or deep electrical knowledge. The one thing I would recommend, I always use "star-type" lock washers on both sides of the terminal ends. I will look for a fairly easily accessible location, give the metal surface a good scrape with a tool like a gasket scraper (clean grease/mud maybe scratch some paint), and the "tar washer" will bite into the metal of the bolt and engine/firewall/frame to give a good "metal-to-metal" connection. Again, as with any other "connection", I use a dab of "DiElectric Grease" on the metal surfaces before I make the cable installation (after cleaning/scraping) to deter possible corrosion. Hopefully I've give some useful info. Blessing to All🙏🙏🙏
Great video. I have a 2012 ford edge. Replaced alternator three times with new batteries. Each time after like 15 miles of driving or less the alternator stops charging battery and the light in dash comes on. Help please
Have you tried different beans or always the same brand? I would check the charge wire connection at the under hood fuse block and the mega fuse for the alternator, sometimes they can crack from vibration and have an intermittent connection.
Do Ford F250's made in 2013 have this dummy light? My truck keeps turning up SERVICE ADVANCE TRAC with a wrench that fades until the lights go all the way out. I had no warnings either, accept one night waking up in the back seat to the vehicle idling improperly and losing power inside and outside.
I'm having this problem today on my 2018 f250 with the advance trac. All my lights on thr dash are going out but truck runs for about 35 seconds then dies out. Is it a battery or Alternator? The battery light is also on on the dash
@@DonSenior52 I just worked on a 19 Edge hat had a bad alternator, I wasn’t able to detect a bad diode bleeding AC voltage into the system but it was surging the idle for a while till it finally died, also wouldn’t shift into gear as it was fully electronic.
i can tell you why its not charging ive went through 4 alt and two batterys it wasnt untill i broke the conector that i figurd it out the plug in that comes on the escape is a two prong set up the moment you change your alt its not going to work the new alts have three wires not two so wherer do you put the third wire auto zone say ford says it is suppose to take a different conector i went to the junk yard and got alt that came with the truck and put it in and it worked just fine untill that one went out
It runs up front, across in front of the rad, then back along the bottom of the battery to a four terminal plug around the stater solenoid before running back into the firewall. For some reason the horn wire runs in the same harness.
I have the same problem 2008 Ford escape changed the alternator, wiring harness , ignition switch, new battery. The battery light still comes on while running and drains the battery. Any tips on where to look
Several fords have had issues with the resistance in the voltage regulator in the alternator, both aftermarket replacements and dealer parts. I’d check voltage while running and loaded (headlights/blower fan/ ac running) to make sure you’re getting around 14 volts.
I’m having this same issue of the alternator not charging on my 87 mustang. I’ve even upgraded to a 3g alternator. So far I’ve returned to alternators due to them not charging. Had the guys at Orielly’s check the second one today and was told that it’s the regulator that’s bad. What are the odds of getting 2 bad alternators back to back? I’m gonna have to rewatch this video and try and pick up as much info as I can. The battery light doesn’t come on either on my dash. Great helpful video. I was about to start tracing the wiring.
Took the dashboard apart and replaced the light bulbs and ensured they all worked by testing them. Hell, I even fixed my non working dimmer panel switch with a rotary tool, wire brush attachment and some electrical parts cleaner. The panel now works and saved me $100. But, the battery light still did not come on after installing the dashboard and the alternator is still not charging. Taking the alternator back to the auto parts store and exchanging it. Could there be any other issue I could be be overlooking?
@@alvarohernandez9580 make sure that green wire in the alternator plug has power with the key on, otherwise it could be a wiring problem, there is a plug around the battery/solenoid area that likes to corrode.
So to test it, power the green wire directly from the battery? If that works should I just run a wire from the green to the power wire on the alternator?
@@_Noeys_ark_ is it a broken wire? Bad connection? Burned out bulb? Bad ignition switch? Does the alternator charge when you jump power to the exciter wire? Does the bulb light up with the key on before you start it?
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 the battery light does not come on on the dash idk what’s causing that.. I shaved down that red and green wire on the alternator I then hooked a wire to that cable and then ran that directly to the battery and the battery light now comes on on the dash hell I turned the car off and the battery light stays on on the dash. What does that mean ? What should I do?
@@_Noeys_ark_ have you had the alternator off and had it tested? You should have power on that wire with the key on and ground at that terminal in the alternator.
I would start with making sure it has voltage getting back to the battery, I think those have a large fuse on the firewall, otherwise I've seen those have problems in the plug at the alternator.
Right , i had a mustang never had problem with the charging system , and now I gave it to him , and was not charging D was sitting for like 4 yeah años he did the alternator plug wires and now it charger , to say plug wires were corroded or Ether were not making contact , thanks a lot for the video , and comment it really help when you need it 🍺🍺🍺🍺 cheers 🍻 for everyone here
I had the same issue but now something else is wrong i still have my truck wired like how your talking in The video but now i turn my key over and the battery light is gone but the bulb still lights up and the starter just clicks like a dead battery but its not the problem its not getting pieer when i put my reader on it nothing is getting power idk whats going on
The first thing I did was pull the cluster and check the light since it didn't light up and I had no power up front, the bulb was good so I had to dig deeper. Someone had cut the wiring under the hood.
I have this problem now because I changed my entire dash cluster and no longer have any bulb at all there. What’s the easiest fix for me to get the alternator charging again?
@@giobarajas3654 it depends on the vehicle, it would be a bolt on fuse usually in the fuse box but sometimes mounted elsewhere, on the older models it’s just a smaller gauge wire inline close to where the charge wire hooks to the battery or solenoid.
I have a Ford F150 2003 changed alternator changed battery changed the clips to the alternator and battery still isn't charging what could it be? The battery lights on in the dash so idk where to look or what could it be. Any advice thanks
Most all vehicle’s with internal regulators have the same general setup, if it has a light in the dash that doesn’t work anymore it won’t charge, those with a gauge are wired differently.
Correct, the alt is excited/triggered through the bulb, when it is not charging it is grounded inside the alternator causing the bulb to light, when the alternator charges the ground turns to power and the light goes out.
Hey man, wondering if you could help me out. I put a new alternator in and new pig tail. Battery light was on dash and still wasn’t charging battery. I took my wire tester and noticed one of the wires from the pigtail to the solenoid wasn’t getting power. So I changed that wire out and started it up, now no light on dash. But it is still not charging
@@huntererhart1913 yes it could be, that’s why you want to check to see if the alt is charging at the back of it, that way you know the problem is between there and the battery
@@Wesley-fk7ef I just did a ford 500 with a customer replacement ultima that overcharged and ran the battery down, customer supplied a TYC from rock auto that overcharged at an even higher voltage and ran the battery down…a lot of different brands use the same suppliers for internal parts like the regulator. That truck would probably be a computer controlled alternator so it need to be on a diagnostic machine to rule out a problem with the vehicle, otherwise three alternators in a row is not unheard of…the most I’ve seen is nine.
My problem was the damn 4 pin connector under the battery tray area, the red/green and yellow alternator wires go through this connector and it rots/ corrodes there big time.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 it goes well over 19v gauge stops there and after about 5 seconds of that something clicks and voltage goes to middle of the normal range.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thank you sir that's what I assumed is there any use for the old alternator such as a way to repurpose it for anything useful in my shop or motorhome?
For all those that respond and comment: IF IT FIXED YOUR VEHICLE, DO THE REST OF US A FAVOR, Please state Year, Make, Model, Engine, ......... so the rest of us can make a reasonable guess if our problem can be fix the same way youra was. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
I've put 4 alternators on my truck & today a brand new alternate so its got to be something else we were told that the alternater has fuse so the fuse was checked & then the battery charged but within 10 miles I'm on side of road again I don't no what else to do help me
What’s the make and model of your truck? Systems used to be very similar between car brands but they’ve all gone in completely different directions in the last couple decades. Also I’ve seen that many bad alternators in a row from the cheaper manufacturers.
Power comes through the ignition switch, through the dash light, and out to that terminal...on this car it was a connection underneath and forward of the master cylinder that someone had cut off and stolen. I found the right pigtail in a used harness and repaired it.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 so re wire it sorry I don’t really understand the video I’ve had alternator problems for a while and replaced the battery I don’t have a battery light come up when it turn the key
If it has a light instead of a gauge then the bulb has to work with the key on, not running, in order for the alternator to charge...if that bulb is out it won't charge. This car was a Frankenstein and someone had cut up the harness.
I don’t think there’s anything between the charging system and the turn signals, if you don’t have a charge indicator light but it doesn’t charge I would start by checking the printed circuit on the IP…has someone been working on it?
It’s either a yellow/white tracer or black/orange tracer, no idea on pn# as I usually run an overlay if needed. Not sure why you’re replacing but if it’s not burned they have a mega fuse that likes to break that will cause a no charge.
Sorry to hear of your troubles, I wish I could help but that’s a hands on deal, that’s not a job for a novice…there are videos on YT that show how to get at it from the top, my hands are too big for that so I always go out the bottom.
brother i have ford fiesta 1.4 tdci my problem is that whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i fully press the throttle all the way to 5k rpm it starts charging and light goes offf , plz help me to solve this issue
In the larger plug there’s a green wire, I had the ground of my test light hooked to positive on the battery, then probed the green/white or green/red (I don’t remember which) on the larger plug
My issue is, when I turn the key to on, the battery light appears. Then when I start the car, car dies, but the battery light never came on. Idk what to do at this point. 05 Ford Five Hundred
Can you please help me Went out to the car one day and the radio was on and wouldn’t come off so we started unhooking the battery few days later car wouldn’t start and it’s not the battery because we can charge it and drive it maybe 10 miles before it does we at first thought it was the alternator but now I’m thinking it’s the wires I just had the ignition replaced about a year ago because the key wouldn’t come out of the ignition and what ever the first dealership did I think did this
It's not charging the battery if it drives for a while and the battery goes dead, sounds like it has computer issues since the radio was on but there are several things that are possible depending on what kind of car it is.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 it’s a 2001 Ford Escape and he was about to go change the alternator but I’m really thinking it’s not the issue . Like the ford dealership did something and I can’t use the only car we have
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 also thank you for replying because I have tried so many things. All the lights on the dash went off but the battery light comes on
@@carolyntravis11 if it's been a year since they worked on it then it's doubtful that it's something they did, it's not impossible but very unlikely. The charging system needs to be checked which can be done with a voltmeter.
@@carolyntravis11 if it's the 6cyl then it's an adventure to change the alternator due to it's location. Good luck with it and I hope you get your car going again soon.
Ok so i have a 04 expy new battery and alt but the bat light is still on and i can be driving ans my volts go down all i have go do is give it gas and it goes up but its not fully charging and i still need to get it jumped
I repaired the wiring harness where someone had cut it, I had pulled the dash and checked the bulb already. I've seen people just wire in a 194 socket into that circuit also.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thank you for this video, I'm currently dealing with no battery light and no charge after a passenger side head gasket replacement, absolutely bizarre !!!
Yes, that light is powered through the ignition switch and runs out to the regular, when the alternator does not charge it's grounded causing the light to come on but it uses the power from that wire to turn the regulator on, when it starts charging the light goes out because there's power on both ends and it looses it's ground.
I was fighting this issue for a few weeks.now.i also asked my fordmaster mechanic brother in law this question and he said it was just for dummy light.shouldnt have to be used.until I wired it in and it started to charge.thanx for the awesome video Now I can sleep better tonight.lol
@@patrickdubuc3439 how did you wire it in , seems like just hooking up the green wire to power doesnt make a difference until it acts like a switch but as soon as I shut the vehicle off and restart it will not charge until Its switched on again
Can you please help me ? I have 2013 ford fusion that showed check battery charging sytem , I have a good battery not even a year old , I replaced the alternator because it was bad but , it now starts but will die quickly / when drving itll shut off my check battery charging sytem light never turned off after replacing the alternator and i checked the fuse for the alternator all good. Idk what to do . Hopefully you can lead me to the right direction. Thank you in advance.
First it needs to have the voltage checked to make sure that it's charging like it should, beyond that I have seen a few vehicles (usually Fords) that will charge but the light stays on because the aftermarket alternator used a defective or incorrect regulator making the computer believe there was a problem. The dying problem is most likely a result of the computer needing to relearn it's idle setting since the battery was most likely unhooked for the alt. replacement.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 oh I have a 2007 ford 500 and 2 of the 3 wires are messed up Not making the alternator work Seeing if you had any knowledge on the wiring
@@jaybutton3004 I take each job individually, ford should have a replacement pigtail available, with a wiring diagram and a connector end view it’s a lot easier, without those I usually have to do a lot of internet digging.
I have no audio on my old ASS pc BUT on my Focus mk1 i changed the alternator 4 times in one week chasing a gremlin! Turned out I had the ecu main earth in the wrong place AND another of the fusebox loom earths in wrong place ! Dont discount anything!
If your vehicle uses this type of charging system then yes, several of the older vehicles use the bulb inline with the exciter wire that has ground till it starts charging.
Early BMWs did this as well, the exciter circuit runs through the battery indicator light on the instrument cluster. Did the same thing - bought a new battery, bought a reman'd alternator ... car runs on battery only and dies when the battery is drained. 'EV' of the wrong sort.
The mega fuse didn’t exist yet on this application, it wasn’t available until the mid to late 90’s. Had several Z-tech four cylinder Ford engines that liked to crack that high amp alt fuse due to engine vibration.
I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, car starts right up but battery light come on and stays on. I don't know that my mega fuse has ever been changed but it's $5.69 @ AutoZone. Called MEGA fuse for a reason. I wish there was a scan tool that reveals why the battery light is on
Later model vehicles will have that light sometimes due to the replacement alternator having a different resistance in the regulator, need to check voltage while running.
EXTREMELY confused with your video, loud noises over your voice, “ “plug the wire in here”. What wire in where for what reason ?? I wish I was a swammy mind reader, but dude I am more confused now than before.. KISS brother, take This down and do it right so us know nothing people can understand you.
Broooooo…..!!!! It worked for me same issue.. and I changed light bulb on the cluster the one that’s supposed to light up the (battery AMP) on dashboard cluster.. started charging right away
Thank you sir..!! 🔥🔥💯💯😎
Thank you so much for your video sir. Im shane from philippines. 2days ago i buy a surplus cluster gauge panel. The owner said it is working. So i replace mine with that. After that my battery is nit charging just today i let the electrician check and says ny batt is good the problem is the alternator. So i go home park my truck outside the gate. When im going to park it inside my truck wont start. So i charge the batt for 5mins and start it and put my truck inside my garage. I almost order new battery on it . When im lying in my bed i search on youtube and watch your video. After watching i run in my truck and replace my surplus to my old one and check it. Now its charging. You save from wrong doing of mine.
Thank you!! You helped me solve my charging issue with my 97 f150, 4.6 liter. I bypassed the tiny bulb in the instrument cluster and now getting charge to the battery, however, now the check engine light is on and the instrument cluster doesn't light up. I will eventually replace the little bulb in the cluster and see what changes. Big help!!
Where did u bypass it at
Can be fixed by putting a 560 ohm 1 watt resistor in line to alternator. Light works as a resistor to tell regulator to charge.
Please expand on this if you don’t mind.
please ^
How I need a visual!
No, don't put a resistor in the circuit, just fix the wiring or the bulb.
Thank you for your video my battery light bulb was blown when I replaced it alternator started charging
And here's tonight's winning lotto numbers.... brahhhhhhhmmmmbambambambambam!
Damnn, you are a legend sir. Same issue on my 95 lancer. I just replace the bulb, and voila...
Sounds like a weak link in the design of the system. I'm dealing with the same thing now. I'll play with it and see if I can bypass that bulb issue. Thanks for bringing it to light (pun intended, no apologies).
You can put a resistor in parallel with the battery light. It will start charging even when bulb goes out.
Yeah, it just needs to see continuity to excite the regulator.
What size resistor?
@@LongWalkerActual I would try with 150ohm 2watt resistor first, then 120 or 100ohm 2watt. You may have to ramp the rpm first to get the alternator charging then it will work on idle too.
@@mikkolempinen2717 You've successfully done this before?
@@LongWalkerActual I havent tried my self, but I have seen them sometimes in wiring diagrams in parallel with the lamp.
Man you are a huge help, got me back on the road when stranded when I was out of town. Quick question, is there something I can replace instead of a light bulb, that doesn't drain the battery when the vehicle is off, cause I'm tired of disconnecting the battery every time I stop driving the vehicle
That bulb should be powered through the ignition switch, that circuit shouldn’t draw power when it’s off.
Very helpful video tips thank you,God bless
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Bro... I had the exact same problem, and the fix worked. I just wired it to a keyed power source, and now I'm charging
What did you wire ot to
Hey Bulldog, I have a 1990 Ford E-150 that has the 5.0 in it. I have the same problem with van as you are discussing. I need to find the" bad bulb". What wire are you hooking your test light up to? I had to manually wire my alternator as someone had ripped the pigtail off. So, if you could tell me which wire do I connect the test light to I would appreciate it thank you.
Does it have a charging meter (ammeter) in the cluster? If so then it doesn’t have a light bulb.
Your a freaking genius Thank sir
Could you help me with an 83 mustang alternator wire trace? It’s white with a black stripe coming from the alt. And had a push on rubber boot shaped connector. It doesn’t go to the electric choke like I’ve read. I’m thinking starter solenoid? I’m having a hell of a time getting any help on this.
If it's a large wire that goes to the solenoid then it's the charge wire.
It does go to the choke. It still had the rubber boot for the stock carb. It was different from any one I’ve ever seen before and not what current carb was setup for.
1997 Lincoln Town Car Limo doing this, started to clean up the feeler brushes, but I don't want to waste time... This could be issue. Intermittent starts, new battery last Summer, need help!
@@NEJunkYardGirl wouldn't cause an intermittent no-start unless it let the battery go down... battery light should be on with key on before starting the engine
Thanks it helped me figure out why the light wasn’t working but when I ground the green wire to the body of the alternator the light comes on but still not charging is grounding it to the alternator the the way to fix it
@@jamietriplett8370 if the light comes on when you ground that then the signal is getting there, that wire is supposed to switch on the regulator to make it charge, there should be ground there until the alt starts charging, I have a feeling that your alt is shot.
As to the issue of the corrosion problem, I'm a stickler for ALWAYS applying a bit of DiElectric Grease inside any and every electrical connection, regardless of the location. As an application to the sparkplug boot (either end), it eases later removal and can resist water intrusion. For electrical connections, it can greatly reduce or even prevent corrosion due to temperature and humidity, as well as rain and snow (salt spray) exposure as well. Before reinstalling replacement bulbs, I make sure to thoroughly clean the socket and terminals to remove any contaminants/corrosion and apply a fair amount to the inside base and sides of the socket before inserting a new bulb. Be careful to avoid getting the grease anywhere except the base area of the bulb, because it will most likely cause either an immediate failure, or failing that, can prevent proper cooling of the bulb which will likely also reduce the "lifetime" of the bulb.
One other common failure (and often THE MOST common), is a bad or missing ground. You can get "universal" braided-type ground straps from any automotive or "tractor/farm supply" store, and simply connect one from an unused threaded bolt hole and connect 1) Engine to Firewall, 2) Engine to Frame and 3) NEG (-) Bat terminal to either Engine (Preferred) or Frame. With today's modern computer controls, A/C systems, "Power Everything" and all our "toys" (cell phone, tablets, GPS, Radar Detectors, etc), it doesn't take much to overexert older wiring that may not have taken these factors into consideration, on the "drawing board". The upside to using the "braided" strap-type cable, is no insulation to worry about charring/burning (therefore smoking) and it's a fairly cheap/easy/painless install/addition that doesn't require a wiring diagram or deep electrical knowledge. The one thing I would recommend, I always use "star-type" lock washers on both sides of the terminal ends. I will look for a fairly easily accessible location, give the metal surface a good scrape with a tool like a gasket scraper (clean grease/mud maybe scratch some paint), and the "tar washer" will bite into the metal of the bolt and engine/firewall/frame to give a good "metal-to-metal" connection. Again, as with any other "connection", I use a dab of "DiElectric Grease" on the metal surfaces before I make the cable installation (after cleaning/scraping) to deter possible corrosion.
Hopefully I've give some useful info. Blessing to All🙏🙏🙏
What
Great video.
I have a 2012 ford edge. Replaced alternator three times with new batteries. Each time after like 15 miles of driving or less the alternator stops charging battery and the light in dash comes on.
Help please
Have you tried different beans or always the same brand? I would check the charge wire connection at the under hood fuse block and the mega fuse for the alternator, sometimes they can crack from vibration and have an intermittent connection.
Do Ford F250's made in 2013 have this dummy light?
My truck keeps turning up SERVICE ADVANCE TRAC with a wrench that fades until the lights go all the way out. I had no warnings either, accept one night waking up in the back seat to the vehicle idling improperly and losing power inside and outside.
No, they've got computerized regulators.
I'm having this problem today on my 2018 f250 with the advance trac. All my lights on thr dash are going out but truck runs for about 35 seconds then dies out. Is it a battery or Alternator? The battery light is also on on the dash
@DonSenior52 that’s way too new to diagnose by symptom, need to put a voltmeter on it to check voltage while running
Gotcha Thanks man!!
@@DonSenior52 I just worked on a 19 Edge hat had a bad alternator, I wasn’t able to detect a bad diode bleeding AC voltage into the system but it was surging the idle for a while till it finally died, also wouldn’t shift into gear as it was fully electronic.
i can tell you why its not charging ive went through 4 alt and two batterys it wasnt untill i broke the conector that i figurd it out the plug in that comes on the escape is a two prong set up the moment you change your alt its not going to work the new alts have three wires not two so wherer do you put the third wire auto zone say ford says it is suppose to take a different conector i went to the junk yard and got alt that came with the truck and put it in and it worked just fine untill that one went out
Cool but where is that green wire having same trouble with my Fox body mustang sir
It runs up front, across in front of the rad, then back along the bottom of the battery to a four terminal plug around the stater solenoid before running back into the firewall. For some reason the horn wire runs in the same harness.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thanks sir but is it a all green wire
@@billyhernandez7540 I think it was green/white striped to the connector and solid green from there to inside…but it’s been a couple years
I have the same problem 2008 Ford escape changed the alternator, wiring harness , ignition switch, new battery. The battery light still comes on while running and drains the battery. Any tips on where to look
Several fords have had issues with the resistance in the voltage regulator in the alternator, both aftermarket replacements and dealer parts. I’d check voltage while running and loaded (headlights/blower fan/ ac running) to make sure you’re getting around 14 volts.
There should also be a large fuse for the alternator that sometimes will break due to vibration or blow due to a catastrophic alternator failure.
I’m having this same issue of the alternator not charging on my 87 mustang. I’ve even upgraded to a 3g alternator. So far I’ve returned to alternators due to them not charging. Had the guys at Orielly’s check the second one today and was told that it’s the regulator that’s bad. What are the odds of getting 2 bad alternators back to back? I’m gonna have to rewatch this video and try and pick up as much info as I can. The battery light doesn’t come on either on my dash. Great helpful video. I was about to start tracing the wiring.
It is possible to get multiple failures in a row, but the rest of the system has to be checked.
Looks like a weekend of car maintenance and some cold beers! Yay me!!
Took the dashboard apart and replaced the light bulbs and ensured they all worked by testing them. Hell, I even fixed my non working dimmer panel switch with a rotary tool, wire brush attachment and some electrical parts cleaner. The panel now works and saved me $100. But, the battery light still did not come on after installing the dashboard and the alternator is still not charging. Taking the alternator back to the auto parts store and exchanging it. Could there be any other issue I could be be overlooking?
@@alvarohernandez9580 make sure that green wire in the alternator plug has power with the key on, otherwise it could be a wiring problem, there is a plug around the battery/solenoid area that likes to corrode.
Thanks!! Will look at that later on today after work.
So to test it, power the green wire directly from the battery?
If that works should I just run a wire from the green to the power wire on the alternator?
Did u figure this out? Do you hook the green wire to power or ground?
It hooks to switched power with a load on it.
What it turned out to be was someone cut the wiring harness that went inside next to the brake booster.
This is confusing if I have a toggle switch which do I run to the green wire power or ground I don't care about the light
@@RollingThunder85 power the green wire, I would put a light in line for resistance anyway.
Ok what do I do to fix it though!!!
@@_Noeys_ark_ is it a broken wire? Bad connection? Burned out bulb? Bad ignition switch? Does the alternator charge when you jump power to the exciter wire? Does the bulb light up with the key on before you start it?
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 the battery light does not come on on the dash idk what’s causing that.. I shaved down that red and green wire on the alternator I then hooked a wire to that cable and then ran that directly to the battery and the battery light now comes on on the dash hell I turned the car off and the battery light stays on on the dash. What does that mean ? What should I do?
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 the battery will not charge even with that wire connected to the battery
@@_Noeys_ark_ have you had the alternator off and had it tested? You should have power on that wire with the key on and ground at that terminal in the alternator.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 it’s brand new I got the alternator yesterday
Bulldog my truck f150 2004. V8. 4.6. Have problem alternator not charge put new and same problem not charge help
I would start with making sure it has voltage getting back to the battery, I think those have a large fuse on the firewall, otherwise I've seen those have problems in the plug at the alternator.
Right , i had a mustang never had problem with the charging system , and now I gave it to him , and was not charging D was sitting for like 4 yeah años he did the alternator plug wires and now it charger , to say plug wires were corroded or Ether were not making contact , thanks a lot for the video , and comment it really help when you need it 🍺🍺🍺🍺 cheers 🍻 for everyone here
You are AWESOME...
BIG THANKS...HOSS.
I had the same issue but now something else is wrong i still have my truck wired like how your talking in The video but now i turn my key over and the battery light is gone but the bulb still lights up and the starter just clicks like a dead battery but its not the problem its not getting pieer when i put my reader on it nothing is getting power idk whats going on
Do you have a burned fuse link next to the solenoid?
Why didn’t you pull the cluster and swap out the light? Out of curiosity
The first thing I did was pull the cluster and check the light since it didn't light up and I had no power up front, the bulb was good so I had to dig deeper. Someone had cut the wiring under the hood.
I have this problem now because I changed my entire dash cluster and no longer have any bulb at all there. What’s the easiest fix for me to get the alternator charging again?
Run switched power (with a bulbs worth of resistance) to the noted wire at the alternator.
I got a 2004 ford focus with new battery and alternator battery light keeps going on and off and dying any tips
Voltage test to see if it’s actually charging, some fords have a big alternator fuse that’s known to crack
. where would that fuse be located? I cant seem to find it
@@giobarajas3654 it depends on the vehicle, it would be a bolt on fuse usually in the fuse box but sometimes mounted elsewhere, on the older models it’s just a smaller gauge wire inline close to where the charge wire hooks to the battery or solenoid.
I have a Ford F150 2003 changed alternator changed battery changed the clips to the alternator and battery still isn't charging what could it be? The battery lights on in the dash so idk where to look or what could it be. Any advice thanks
You are legend sir
Any advice on the same issue with an 82 Buick Riviera?...no light on in dash
Most all vehicle’s with internal regulators have the same general setup, if it has a light in the dash that doesn’t work anymore it won’t charge, those with a gauge are wired differently.
So, are you saying that if the bulb is burnt out, your charging system won't work?
Correct, the alt is excited/triggered through the bulb, when it is not charging it is grounded inside the alternator causing the bulb to light, when the alternator charges the ground turns to power and the light goes out.
Hey man, wondering if you could help me out. I put a new alternator in and new pig tail. Battery light was on dash and still wasn’t charging battery. I took my wire tester and noticed one of the wires from the pigtail to the solenoid wasn’t getting power. So I changed that wire out and started it up, now no light on dash. But it is still not charging
See if the charge wire on the back of the alternator has battery voltage or if it’s above. Could be an issue with the big wire or a connection
Okay I’ll check that out 👍🏼 what about the fusible link ? Could that be a issue
Btw I have a 1989 4.9l
@@huntererhart1913 yes it could be, that’s why you want to check to see if the alt is charging at the back of it, that way you know the problem is between there and the battery
This was the problem in my 78 Lincoln. There is no battery light because my gauge housing crumbled beyond repair.
My battery light is on after 3 alternators later. I feel like the white wire isn't working. Battery was load tested n good.
@@Wesley-fk7ef it depends on what kind of vehicle you have and what brand of alternator you’re using, there are brands that have a 100% failure rate
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 I 2002 f150 4.2. last two alternators were 100 percent new. First was reman .
@@Wesley-fk7ef I just did a ford 500 with a customer replacement ultima that overcharged and ran the battery down, customer supplied a TYC from rock auto that overcharged at an even higher voltage and ran the battery down…a lot of different brands use the same suppliers for internal parts like the regulator. That truck would probably be a computer controlled alternator so it need to be on a diagnostic machine to rule out a problem with the vehicle, otherwise three alternators in a row is not unheard of…the most I’ve seen is nine.
What wire is it and where is it located the you probed inti
Green wire with white tracer if I remember right
My problem was the damn 4 pin connector under the battery tray area, the red/green and yellow alternator wires go through this connector and it rots/ corrodes there big time.
What year, make, model, engine vehicle do you have?
Great tip!
What if it won't stop charging it stays at 14.6 at idle give it gas and voltage goes up with rpm and doesn't stop
Depends on how much it goes up, anything over 15 volts there has to be a problem with the internal regulator.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 it goes well over 19v gauge stops there and after about 5 seconds of that something clicks and voltage goes to middle of the normal range.
@@RollingThunder85 the regular has to be bad inside the alternator.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thank you sir that's what I assumed is there any use for the old alternator such as a way to repurpose it for anything useful in my shop or motorhome?
If you have a rebuilder around they can install a new regulator, usually not a huge deal on a non-computerized alternator.
U are rite. That was problem. Thank u sir he’s of trouble shooting. U the man
Hrs **
For all those that respond and comment: IF IT FIXED YOUR VEHICLE, DO THE REST OF US A FAVOR, Please state Year, Make, Model, Engine, ......... so the rest of us can make a reasonable guess if our problem can be fix the same way youra was. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
@@benkanobe7500 it’s fairly common up into the mid 90’s, then it went through the ecm.
I've put 4 alternators on my truck & today a brand new alternate so its got to be something else we were told that the alternater has fuse so the fuse was checked & then the battery charged but within 10 miles I'm on side of road again I don't no what else to do help me
What’s the make and model of your truck? Systems used to be very similar between car brands but they’ve all gone in completely different directions in the last couple decades. Also I’ve seen that many bad alternators in a row from the cheaper manufacturers.
Would this be the same for a 92 Lincoln town car
I believe so
My 1987 Nissan 300zx’s new alternator is not charging and the battery light is not on. I guess I need to do some electrical tests
I’d do some research on that system, some of those imports had some convoluted wiring in the eighties and early nineties.
Is this the same for a 2018 ford flex alternator
No, those are computer controlled
Start it up, that thing would get me tickets
How many volts should u have to know its charging?
In the area of 13 to 14.5, usually around 13.5
What f-ing wire did you hook it to?
On this car it's green with a red tracer, as was stated in the video and multiple times in the comments.
Ok so what do I do with the green cable same issue with my 91 I hook it directly to the battery???
@@_Noeys_ark_ same problem man
Exactly!!!
How do you get power to that wire?
Power comes through the ignition switch, through the dash light, and out to that terminal...on this car it was a connection underneath and forward of the master cylinder that someone had cut off and stolen. I found the right pigtail in a used harness and repaired it.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 so re wire it sorry I don’t really understand the video I’ve had alternator problems for a while and replaced the battery I don’t have a battery light come up when it turn the key
If it has a light instead of a gauge then the bulb has to work with the key on, not running, in order for the alternator to charge...if that bulb is out it won't charge. This car was a Frankenstein and someone had cut up the harness.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 should I try replace the bulb?
I would definitely test it if it's not a big deal to get to...bulbs are cheap.
Have a 87 mustang gt hatchback 5.0 suddenly stopped charging and turn signals stay on no flash
I don’t think there’s anything between the charging system and the turn signals, if you don’t have a charge indicator light but it doesn’t charge I would start by checking the printed circuit on the IP…has someone been working on it?
We need the wire from alternator to battery on 05 escape. Can you show it and possibly the part number
It’s either a yellow/white tracer or black/orange tracer, no idea on pn# as I usually run an overlay if needed. Not sure why you’re replacing but if it’s not burned they have a mega fuse that likes to break that will cause a no charge.
It will be the largest wire
Guy came to fix it but couldnt get the alternator off. Another guy came but cant find the wire any where, so trying to replace
Sorry to hear of your troubles, I wish I could help but that’s a hands on deal, that’s not a job for a novice…there are videos on YT that show how to get at it from the top, my hands are too big for that so I always go out the bottom.
brother i have ford fiesta 1.4 tdci my problem is that whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i fully press the throttle all the way to 5k rpm it starts charging and light goes offf , plz help me to solve this issue
Ummm...did I miss a few steps? What bulb? Ground it to where? I'm so confused...
Yeah he was on the right track and I was getting excited and then he just stopped telling you what you're supposed to do😮
Good job man thanks
Where are you connecting the light too
In the larger plug there’s a green wire, I had the ground of my test light hooked to positive on the battery, then probed the green/white or green/red (I don’t remember which) on the larger plug
Thank you very much I been having the exact problem with my truck
Perhaps if you have a voltage regulator it’s faulty or wire is broken
It works thank you
My issue is, when I turn the key to on, the battery light appears. Then when I start the car, car dies, but the battery light never came on. Idk what to do at this point. 05 Ford Five Hundred
That's something that will have to be properly diagnosed...the newer they get the more complicated they are, too many things to guess.
Can you please help me
Went out to the car one day and the radio was on and wouldn’t come off so we started unhooking the battery few days later car wouldn’t start and it’s not the battery because we can charge it and drive it maybe 10 miles before it does we at first thought it was the alternator but now I’m thinking it’s the wires I just had the ignition replaced about a year ago because the key wouldn’t come out of the ignition and what ever the first dealership did I think did this
It's not charging the battery if it drives for a while and the battery goes dead, sounds like it has computer issues since the radio was on but there are several things that are possible depending on what kind of car it is.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 it’s a 2001 Ford Escape and he was about to go change the alternator but I’m really thinking it’s not the issue . Like the ford dealership did something and I can’t use the only car we have
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 also thank you for replying because I have tried so many things. All the lights on the dash went off but the battery light comes on
@@carolyntravis11 if it's been a year since they worked on it then it's doubtful that it's something they did, it's not impossible but very unlikely. The charging system needs to be checked which can be done with a voltmeter.
@@carolyntravis11 if it's the 6cyl then it's an adventure to change the alternator due to it's location. Good luck with it and I hope you get your car going again soon.
Would it work for 1988
@@baileydelaune3948 yes, if it’s a ford with a battery light that’s what they used up until the mid to late 90’s
well done.
Ok so i have a 04 expy new battery and alt but the bat light is still on and i can be driving ans my volts go down all i have go do is give it gas and it goes up but its not fully charging and i still need to get it jumped
Have the battery load tested, also test the voltage while running, just because the alt is new doesn’t mean it’s good.
I see the workaround solution, but what is the fix that will make the battery light come on and the charging gauge work like factory ?
I repaired the wiring harness where someone had cut it, I had pulled the dash and checked the bulb already. I've seen people just wire in a 194 socket into that circuit also.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thank you for this video, I'm currently dealing with no battery light and no charge after a passenger side head gasket replacement, absolutely bizarre !!!
So the green wire for the dummy light has to be hooked up for battery to charge?
Yes, that light is powered through the ignition switch and runs out to the regular, when the alternator does not charge it's grounded causing the light to come on but it uses the power from that wire to turn the regulator on, when it starts charging the light goes out because there's power on both ends and it looses it's ground.
I was fighting this issue for a few weeks.now.i also asked my fordmaster mechanic brother in law this question and he said it was just for dummy light.shouldnt have to be used.until I wired it in and it started to charge.thanx for the awesome video
Now I can sleep better tonight.lol
@@patrickdubuc3439 how did you wire it in , seems like just hooking up the green wire to power doesnt make a difference until it acts like a switch but as soon as I shut the vehicle off and restart it will not charge until Its switched on again
The light turn off when key is on
I changed 3 alternators all charging about 13,1v and bonusing up and down i can start everyday without proplem , grand marquis 2001☹️
See if this video helps ruclips.net/video/7e1iH9R5Mv0/видео.htmlsi=vL87uVmYT4p3CmLV
Can you please help me ? I have 2013 ford fusion that showed check battery charging sytem , I have a good battery not even a year old , I replaced the alternator because it was bad but , it now starts but will die quickly / when drving itll shut off my check battery charging sytem light never turned off after replacing the alternator and i checked the fuse for the alternator all good. Idk what to do . Hopefully you can lead me to the right direction. Thank you in advance.
First it needs to have the voltage checked to make sure that it's charging like it should, beyond that I have seen a few vehicles (usually Fords) that will charge but the light stays on because the aftermarket alternator used a defective or incorrect regulator making the computer believe there was a problem. The dying problem is most likely a result of the computer needing to relearn it's idle setting since the battery was most likely unhooked for the alt. replacement.
Help me out Bulldog
I’m counting on you
What are you needing help with?
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 oh I have a 2007 ford 500 and 2 of the 3 wires are messed up
Not making the alternator work
Seeing if you had any knowledge on the wiring
@@jaybutton3004 I take each job individually, ford should have a replacement pigtail available, with a wiring diagram and a connector end view it’s a lot easier, without those I usually have to do a lot of internet digging.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 awesome thank you
Y’all I’ll keep looking
Hes jumping the green n red wire to the alt/gen. Black n white
So what's the fix
Repair the open circuit, whether it be a bad charge indicator bulb or a bad wire, this one had the harness cut.
I have no audio on my old ASS pc BUT on my Focus mk1 i changed the alternator 4 times in one week chasing a gremlin! Turned out I had the ecu main earth in the wrong place AND another of the fusebox loom earths in wrong place ! Dont discount anything!
So this means the battery light on my dash if it is out I have to replace the bulb for it to start charging my battery?
If your vehicle uses this type of charging system then yes, several of the older vehicles use the bulb inline with the exciter wire that has ground till it starts charging.
my damn f250 diesel doing the same cant find the damn wire
Fml I have all the issues everyone else does except my battery light comes on…..
Early BMWs did this as well, the exciter circuit runs through the battery indicator light on the instrument cluster.
Did the same thing - bought a new battery, bought a reman'd alternator ... car runs on battery only and dies when the battery is drained. 'EV' of the wrong sort.
❤
Might be a $5 mega fuse
The mega fuse didn’t exist yet on this application, it wasn’t available until the mid to late 90’s. Had several Z-tech four cylinder Ford engines that liked to crack that high amp alt fuse due to engine vibration.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 How was the zetec ford , strong engine?
I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, car starts right up but battery light come on and stays on. I don't know that my mega fuse has ever been changed but it's $5.69 @ AutoZone.
Called MEGA fuse for a reason.
I wish there was a scan tool that reveals why the battery light is on
Just put a resitor in place that will fix your problems it's like a 500 ohm
I bought new alternator battery and I have a check charging system
Later model vehicles will have that light sometimes due to the replacement alternator having a different resistance in the regulator, need to check voltage while running.
What! Say what! ....😢
EXTREMELY confused with your video, loud noises over your voice,
“
“plug the wire in here”.
What wire in where for what reason ??
I wish I was a swammy mind reader, but dude I am more confused now than before.. KISS brother, take This down and do it right so us know nothing people can understand you.
Bitchin about a free video 😅
Well, thank you but I had to listen to all that bulls to get to the point
DUDE,, GET TO THE FUCKING POINT.
I think you missed a section of your beard sir. Please go cut that. It’s distracting to the video.
so u clicked on a car diagnostic video to check out this mans beard , ur weird
ruclips.net/video/ETj6KXFGkSo/видео.html
why not point camera where your looking?? very yaknow
Bulldog,, Really😅😅😅