Je vais regarder ça j'ai un mk1 1.6 16 v zetec es manuelle et du jours au lendemain un matin elle na plus voulu demarrer 😢 vraiment super etrange...je vais regarder les masse de terre c'est peut être ça 🤷 merci pour votre vidéo votre moteur et propre c'est tout neuf je suis impressionnée 😮😮😮
Cheers buddy, Now you see I have missed a few things, the brake light switches have been known to fail, give it a contact clean. Also do the same with the brake fluid level connection. Its possible there's a dirty sensor connection, I'd have a look underneath at the connectors on all 4 wheels. It's not a sensor otherwise you'd have a permanent abs light.
Great content as usual, my central locking has packed up from the fob key .. the car locks ok when the key is inserted in the drivers door, where do I start looking for a fix Cheers mate
Hi, would that gauge test point out to why two of my needles move after engine stop and key out? My battery was tested fine by RAC and then the mechanic who put on a new alternator read it as 14.1v, no idea to why this new issue, its like a new issue every week now in 3 since i had it serviced and MOT'd
great info vid and thats a clean 90 thou milla focus you sound local to brum also if your instrument cluster starts to play up ie needles bouncing about or not moving at all either intermittently or not at all then it will need to be removed and the solder joints reflowed this happened to me a few months back you will prob have to get this done by a electrician. also if you have variable dash lights that flicker when the dail is on full just turn it down a bit until it stops flickering. one prob i got with my radio is the volume knob when turned to go either up or down goes any witch way i suspect it could do with a switch clean tbh not a big problem as i tend to use the stalk instead
The original radios have so many bad soldered joints it can cause all sorts of issues, volume is one, not able to select a station is another and the CD players stops working. But its more than repairable. Yes your right the needles can start bouncing as well as not moving at all! I am 100% Brummie buddy haha, the sound on my phone really shows it :)
@@usuallyfixingtinkering i'm not to far from ya ta be honest. i can only blame my self or the electrical probs on mine as it was of the road for 5 years and this year i managed to recommission it owned it for nearly 13 years and tbh i will never sell it i have had to have the clocks done a couple of months back and i got a award when it came back as he said it was the worst he ever did😂they started bouncing the would work perfect after a while but the next day hey problem back again and then it progressed to needles not moving at all so out it came. ive also had the loom wires break in the rubber boot on the tail gate and the washer pipe also just at the back of the head lineing mind that was around 10 years back i just added a piece of wire ti the break it dont help with the loom being real tight in the rubber boot
@@madtopp if it was off the road for 5 years I can only guess at the amount of bad soldered joints he had to remove😂 that's weird that it came back that shouldn't happen unless he missed one or two joints! I'm afraid they all go the same way, I check my loom every so often. I have a spare loom on the shelf if it goes that could be worth thinking about they come up on ebay off breakers! Ah your not far away from Birmingham I gather?
Thanks for the wipers trick!! I still have an issue with the dashboard randomly switching off and on (the car still works, while they switching...) any ideas there? I also had the rear loom problem (fixed!)
hi,great info about focus. if you can help me with a problem, i have an focus mk1.5 (facelift) ghia. for years my controll key doesnt work. i try the way you program the key by on-off 4 times and doesnt work.there is no sound. i fix a new key and bought a used but in very good condition GEM and still nothing. any ideas? if you like can you make a video how to programm a key? thanks for your time and your detaild videos.
Your programming the key correctly but if you've changed the GEM module and it's not making a sound then the only cause that's obvious is the circuit board in the key is broken. I believe its part of the key so a new key with internals is needed. That also requires swapping the immobiliser chip very carefully.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering thanks for the quick response. the key and the GEM are new. the key is a brand new aftermarket and the GEM is second hand but in great condition. maybe programming from OBD II is the way to go?
They fit into the same space no issues there but the wiring is different as the indicators are in the bumper on an early one and the facelift headlights will need the full loom to hook up to it, which is missing the indicator wire, are you changing bumpers? Because you will have indicators in the headlights and (if you successfully move the wire) dead front indicators in bumper. You see the what I'm saying?
@usuallyfixingtinkering Do you know about differences between the TPS of the automatic and manual versions of the MK1? Mine is automatic. And the old tps had a spring inside it. I ordered one with the same reference number but the engine still doesn't run right. Any ideas?
Hi wondering if you could help , my car has all of a sudden got multiple issues with the electrics, car key does not work automatically have to manually open which only opens drivers door, when you turn the ignition on , the main headlights are permanently on even when in off position, wipers do not work, but when on fastest mode it staggers across the screen, when handbrake down the light remains on , indicator lights on dashboard do not work , cannot unlock all doors once inside the car either, but the car still runs!. What could this be?. Thanks
okay that's a lot of issues, so these all occured at the same time?! Well this points to multiple earth issues, the first area is a basic one - how old is the battery? That is one thing that causes weird multiple issues. How good are the battery connections? Do they need cleaning. This is the first step I would take, its quite varied and not limited to one part of the car like - the interior. This points to a simple battery or battery connection/earth issue.
Thank you for your quick response!. Yeah all of sudden just stopped working was fine the day before , I'll be honest not to sure the age of the battery but will give this a check at the same time will check all connections too. It doesn't point to a fuse blown then?. Thanks again
Hello, a bit late to the party - i have a 54 focus and the lights on the speedo and rev clocks occasionally flicker, any ideas what this could be? Any help would be appreciated 👍
clean the battery earth connection, of this continues your speedo has got damp soldered joints, common fault in which you'll need to send if off to a place that repair them. Not expensive to do about £65.
Hi there i have exactly same thing with my ford focus mk1 53 reg , the dials just flicker and all the lights just on the dashboard looks like Christmas tree 😂 when is raining or cold weather , if dry everything works fine
Please help! I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX3. The airbag light on the dash stays on with the car off and key out. Its draining my battery. The light goes off when I start the car. But when i turn it off and remove the key from the ignition, the airbag light comes back on. What is the cause? Also the door chime goes off with the key out and doors closed. Whats causing that? Thanks in advance.
you have a faulty drivers door latch, thre switch sounds worn and causing the chime when it shouldn't be. The airbag light is very strange and not something I'v encountered
Actually I fixed it! I saw someone else having the exact same electrical gremlin issue with the door chime and the cluster lights. I had to remove my cluster, open it up to expose the circuit board. Then clean both sides with electrical spray and a soft toothbrush. After I put it back together no more problems! Door chime stopped and airbag light off. Everything working as it should!
The lights only flash on double-deadlocking if your car is enabled with it, click the fob twice and if it flashes it confirms that deadlocking is active, if they don't double deadlocking is not enabled or working
Please help me, i have a ford focus ghia 2001, it was working perfectly but now when im driving the MPH dial will all of a sudden drop and stop working then between 10 - 20 seconds after that the car just goes limp and the petrol, oil and engine light show up but when i turn the engine back on it works straight away. The cut outs are getting more and more frequent. The battery is fairly new within a year. Please if you have any idea what this could be im losing my mind over it.
@usuallyfixingtinkering thanks. I thought it might be that, so I got a speed sensor. The only problem is I can't get the pin out to replace it 😂 Thank you for confirming 👍
@usuallyfixingtinkering I can't belive it, I done it. Wasn't as hard as what I thought, I went under the car and got a mouth full of oil when it came out but it was worth it lol, just have to get the pin back in now. Does it have to go back in or would it be alright to leave it out, I'll attempt it anyway, thanks for all your help bro 👍👍👍
what I usually do is connect my multimeter to the battery positive and the other side to earth and set it to amps, i then pull each fuse to see whether the current draw stops - when it does thats your culprit. need an assistant sometimes for this job, its important the ignition is off, nothing like radio etc.
Got the same ford focus. Shes a handful. Currently my acceleration thingie has dead leds i think, dont know why it happened i suck at cars. And now my headlights keep burning out for some reason. The mechanic already spent 8 hours trying to figure out older issues and he was absolutely baffled by it. Im gonna try another mechanic but at this point my old ford is turning into a disaster on 4 wheels waiting to happen.
can you be more clear on "acceleration thingie", your headlight - either poor bulbs or you have an earth issue, try cleaning the battery earth in the least.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering English isn't my first language so I apologize for my cave man expressions. The meter that shows you turations. The LDS seem dead.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering I dont have a manual so the Google searched diagrams are always telling me USA European uk some are saying fuse 62. That's under the bonnet?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering yep. Took the hearer blower out. And it's looking like a vertically new bosh unit climate control unit. Have been advised to check It's not jammed or rusty .I've also been told if it's the resistor the fan normally still works on number 4 setting.. just not wanting to just keep buying parts.
@@brendanobrien5842 yep that is correct, so its not the resistor. I'd bench test the fan if possible using some wires hooked to a 12v battery. You could try a continuity test wth a multi-meter as well. Just to rule out the fan definitely.
(PLEASE HELP DIAGNOSE) •2003 Focus SE (Auto) 156k miles. Car suddenly does not start or crank. Dash lights light up. Dashes (----) on the odometer. Theft light is completely off. Can't pull any codes does not communicate with ECU. Any other ideas of what to do/look for other than what i have already done listed below? -Checked all fuses and diodes and swapped relays in engine bay fuse box. -Checked all fuses and swapped relays in driver side dash fuse box. -Removed ECU and took apart and did not see anything unusual. -Small orange/black ground wire that goes directly from battery ground (-) to the harness in the engine bay is good. -Two ground wires from the battery to the driver wheels well cleaned and secure. -Battery is in upper "Good" condition under battery draw test. (Next thing i will do is put power and ground directly into the ECU pins to see if it is the ECU that suddenly stopped working) (Next thing i will do is find the secondary key of the car and try starting the car) Recently i did an aftermarket radio install on the vehicle and i also changed the servo piston in the transmission. No problems at all for two days of driving. On the third day no start no crank happened. Only thing different was i backed up on to the driveway instead of regularely driving in. (I can't think of anything else). Thank you so much in dvance.
This is either a Faulty Crank Position Sensor but given its not cranking - dors the fuel pump turn on and immobiliser light go out on ignition number 2 position?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering no theft or immobilizer light on. I do not hear the fuel pump. Though i would think it would still try cranking with a bad fuel pump. It us something with ECU since i cant even connect with it.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering from my understanding you cant just swap them because each ecu has its own keys, it would have to be relearned by Ford or companies that specialize for that stuff?
Je vais regarder ça j'ai un mk1 1.6 16 v zetec es manuelle et du jours au lendemain un matin elle na plus voulu demarrer 😢 vraiment super etrange...je vais regarder les masse de terre c'est peut être ça 🤷 merci pour votre vidéo votre moteur et propre c'est tout neuf je suis impressionnée 😮😮😮
great video 👍
Cheers buddy :)
Hey me again! Great video mate! My abs and brake light comes on and off now and again. Is this a dodgy fuse?
Cheers buddy, Now you see I have missed a few things, the brake light switches have been known to fail, give it a contact clean. Also do the same with the brake fluid level connection. Its possible there's a dirty sensor connection, I'd have a look underneath at the connectors on all 4 wheels. It's not a sensor otherwise you'd have a permanent abs light.
Great content as usual, my central locking has packed up from the fob key .. the car locks ok when the key is inserted in the drivers door, where do I start looking for a fix
Cheers mate
Firstly - change the battery if the car isn't responding to the fob at all!
Hi, would that gauge test point out to why two of my needles move after engine stop and key out? My battery was tested fine by RAC and then the mechanic who put on a new alternator read it as 14.1v, no idea to why this new issue, its like a new issue every week now in 3 since i had it serviced and MOT'd
This sounds like a cluster fault or bad earth. I'd clean the cluster connector at the back, you'll just need to take out the surrounding trim
great info vid and thats a clean 90 thou milla focus you sound local to brum also
if your instrument cluster starts to play up ie needles bouncing about or not moving at all either intermittently or not at all then it will need to be removed and the solder joints reflowed this happened to me a few months back you will prob have to get this done by a electrician.
also if you have variable dash lights that flicker when the dail is on full just turn it down a bit until it stops flickering.
one prob i got with my radio is the volume knob when turned to go either up or down goes any witch way i suspect it could do with a switch clean tbh not a big problem as i tend to use the stalk instead
The original radios have so many bad soldered joints it can cause all sorts of issues, volume is one, not able to select a station is another and the CD players stops working. But its more than repairable. Yes your right the needles can start bouncing as well as not moving at all! I am 100% Brummie buddy haha, the sound on my phone really shows it :)
@@usuallyfixingtinkering i'm not to far from ya ta be honest.
i can only blame my self or the electrical probs on mine as it was of the road for 5 years and this year i managed to recommission it owned it for nearly 13 years and tbh i will never sell it i have had to have the clocks done a couple of months back and i got a award when it came back as he said it was the worst he ever did😂they started bouncing the would work perfect after a while but the next day hey problem back again and then it progressed to needles not moving at all so out it came.
ive also had the loom wires break in the rubber boot on the tail gate and the washer pipe also just at the back of the head lineing mind that was around 10 years back i just added
a piece of wire ti the break it dont help with the loom being real tight in the rubber boot
@@madtopp if it was off the road for 5 years I can only guess at the amount of bad soldered joints he had to remove😂 that's weird that it came back that shouldn't happen unless he missed one or two joints! I'm afraid they all go the same way, I check my loom every so often. I have a spare loom on the shelf if it goes that could be worth thinking about they come up on ebay off breakers! Ah your not far away from Birmingham I gather?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering no not far from you about 10 miles or so
Thanks for the wipers trick!! I still have an issue with the dashboard randomly switching off and on (the car still works, while they switching...) any ideas there?
I also had the rear loom problem (fixed!)
Do you mean the instrument cluster by any chance?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Same problem for me, the cluster just goes wild (speedo and rev, going berserk), but cars run fine.
hi,great info about focus. if you can help me with a problem, i have an focus mk1.5 (facelift) ghia. for years my controll key doesnt work. i try the way you program the key by on-off 4 times and doesnt work.there is no sound. i fix a new key and bought a used but in very good condition GEM and still nothing. any ideas? if you like can you make a video how to programm a key? thanks for your time and your detaild videos.
Your programming the key correctly but if you've changed the GEM module and it's not making a sound then the only cause that's obvious is the circuit board in the key is broken. I believe its part of the key so a new key with internals is needed. That also requires swapping the immobiliser chip very carefully.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering thanks for the quick response. the key and the GEM are new. the key is a brand new aftermarket and the GEM is second hand but in great condition. maybe programming from OBD II is the way to go?
A different question.
Do you know if mk1.5 front headlights (same as yours? fit directly onto mk1s ? Cheers
They fit into the same space no issues there but the wiring is different as the indicators are in the bumper on an early one and the facelift headlights will need the full loom to hook up to it, which is missing the indicator wire, are you changing bumpers? Because you will have indicators in the headlights and (if you successfully move the wire) dead front indicators in bumper. You see the what I'm saying?
@usuallyfixingtinkering
Do you know about differences between the TPS of the automatic and manual versions of the MK1?
Mine is automatic. And the old tps had a spring inside it. I ordered one with the same reference number but the engine still doesn't run right. Any ideas?
No differences for the TPS on either models! It won't be to do with that unless a fault code is generated suggesting it's the sensor
Is there a learning procedure after changing the TPS?
nope
Hi wondering if you could help , my car has all of a sudden got multiple issues with the electrics, car key does not work automatically have to manually open which only opens drivers door, when you turn the ignition on , the main headlights are permanently on even when in off position, wipers do not work, but when on fastest mode it staggers across the screen, when handbrake down the light remains on , indicator lights on dashboard do not work , cannot unlock all doors once inside the car either, but the car still runs!. What could this be?. Thanks
okay that's a lot of issues, so these all occured at the same time?! Well this points to multiple earth issues, the first area is a basic one - how old is the battery? That is one thing that causes weird multiple issues. How good are the battery connections? Do they need cleaning. This is the first step I would take, its quite varied and not limited to one part of the car like - the interior. This points to a simple battery or battery connection/earth issue.
Thank you for your quick response!. Yeah all of sudden just stopped working was fine the day before , I'll be honest not to sure the age of the battery but will give this a check at the same time will check all connections too. It doesn't point to a fuse blown then?. Thanks again
@@05browna095 some items could be, but my first point of call is the battery and its connections!
Your headlight should go through a relay, turn ign off should drop down to sidelights only. My Ghia does that
correct :)
Hello, a bit late to the party - i have a 54 focus and the lights on the speedo and rev clocks occasionally flicker, any ideas what this could be? Any help would be appreciated 👍
clean the battery earth connection, of this continues your speedo has got damp soldered joints, common fault in which you'll need to send if off to a place that repair them. Not expensive to do about £65.
Hi there i have exactly same thing with my ford focus mk1 53 reg , the dials just flicker and all the lights just on the dashboard looks like Christmas tree 😂 when is raining or cold weather , if dry everything works fine
Please help! I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX3. The airbag light on the dash stays on with the car off and key out. Its draining my battery. The light goes off when I start the car. But when i turn it off and remove the key from the ignition, the airbag light comes back on. What is the cause? Also the door chime goes off with the key out and doors closed. Whats causing that? Thanks in advance.
you have a faulty drivers door latch, thre switch sounds worn and causing the chime when it shouldn't be. The airbag light is very strange and not something I'v encountered
Actually I fixed it! I saw someone else having the exact same electrical gremlin issue with the door chime and the cluster lights. I had to remove my cluster, open it up to expose the circuit board. Then clean both sides with electrical spray and a soft toothbrush. After I put it back together no more problems! Door chime stopped and airbag light off. Everything working as it should!
My side lights don’t flash when i lock / unlock my ford focus mk1 2003
How i can fix that
The lights only flash on double-deadlocking if your car is enabled with it, click the fob twice and if it flashes it confirms that deadlocking is active, if they don't double deadlocking is not enabled or working
Please help me, i have a ford focus ghia 2001, it was working perfectly but now when im driving the MPH dial will all of a sudden drop and stop working then between 10 - 20 seconds after that the car just goes limp and the petrol, oil and engine light show up but when i turn the engine back on it works straight away. The cut outs are getting more and more frequent. The battery is fairly new within a year. Please if you have any idea what this could be im losing my mind over it.
Your gearbox speedo sensor is faulty!
@usuallyfixingtinkering thanks. I thought it might be that, so I got a speed sensor. The only problem is I can't get the pin out to replace it 😂
Thank you for confirming 👍
@@ganishnutinishnu7370 wd40 and patience twisting it out with thin nose pliers. Be very patient.
@usuallyfixingtinkering I can't belive it, I done it. Wasn't as hard as what I thought, I went under the car and got a mouth full of oil when it came out but it was worth it lol, just have to get the pin back in now. Does it have to go back in or would it be alright to leave it out, I'll attempt it anyway, thanks for all your help bro 👍👍👍
you do need to put it back in I'm afraid but well done buddy for patience!
Any tips for finding a parasitic drain on the battery on these? Regards Richard.
what I usually do is connect my multimeter to the battery positive and the other side to earth and set it to amps, i then pull each fuse to see whether the current draw stops - when it does thats your culprit. need an assistant sometimes for this job, its important the ignition is off, nothing like radio etc.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering that's what I used to do but now as soon as you connect the meter the toad alarm siren goes off.
Got the same ford focus. Shes a handful. Currently my acceleration thingie has dead leds i think, dont know why it happened i suck at cars. And now my headlights keep burning out for some reason. The mechanic already spent 8 hours trying to figure out older issues and he was absolutely baffled by it. Im gonna try another mechanic but at this point my old ford is turning into a disaster on 4 wheels waiting to happen.
can you be more clear on "acceleration thingie", your headlight - either poor bulbs or you have an earth issue, try cleaning the battery earth in the least.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering English isn't my first language so I apologize for my cave man expressions. The meter that shows you turations. The LDS seem dead.
Take the wiper relay apart, clean the relay contacts. My 2003 wipers didn’t park, and that fixed it
That is what I would have done if swapping them didnt work. Good tip.
Hi in my car dashboard only fuel gauge is working other not working
not the rev or speedo or coolant gauge? If so that sounds like a cluster failure but its weird how your fuel is working.
What number fuse is the heater blower in my st170? Is it under the glovebox or in engine fuse box
It will be in the under the glove box, same for all models!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering I dont have a manual so the Google searched diagrams are always telling me USA European uk some are saying fuse 62. That's under the bonnet?
@@brendanobrien5842 no it will be in the passenger fuse box for sure. Why do you need to look at the fuse, is the fan not working at all?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering yep. Took the hearer blower out. And it's looking like a vertically new bosh unit climate control unit. Have been advised to check It's not jammed or rusty .I've also been told if it's the resistor the fan normally still works on number 4 setting.. just not wanting to just keep buying parts.
@@brendanobrien5842 yep that is correct, so its not the resistor. I'd bench test the fan if possible using some wires hooked to a 12v battery. You could try a continuity test wth a multi-meter as well. Just to rule out the fan definitely.
(PLEASE HELP DIAGNOSE)
•2003 Focus SE (Auto) 156k miles.
Car suddenly does not start or crank. Dash lights light up. Dashes (----) on the odometer. Theft light is completely off. Can't pull any codes does not communicate with ECU.
Any other ideas of what to do/look for other than what i have already done listed below?
-Checked all fuses and diodes and swapped relays in engine bay fuse box.
-Checked all fuses and swapped relays in driver side dash fuse box.
-Removed ECU and took apart and did not see anything unusual.
-Small orange/black ground wire that goes directly from battery ground (-) to the harness in the engine bay is good.
-Two ground wires from the battery to the driver wheels well cleaned and secure.
-Battery is in upper "Good" condition under battery draw test.
(Next thing i will do is put power and ground directly into the ECU pins to see if it is the ECU that suddenly stopped working)
(Next thing i will do is find the secondary key of the car and try starting the car)
Recently i did an aftermarket radio install on the vehicle and i also changed the servo piston in the transmission. No problems at all for two days of driving. On the third day no start no crank happened. Only thing different was i backed up on to the driveway instead of regularely driving in. (I can't think of anything else).
Thank you so much in dvance.
This is either a Faulty Crank Position Sensor but given its not cranking - dors the fuel pump turn on and immobiliser light go out on ignition number 2 position?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering you are awsome. I will check and get back to you. Thanks!!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering no theft or immobilizer light on. I do not hear the fuel pump. Though i would think it would still try cranking with a bad fuel pump. It us something with ECU since i cant even connect with it.
@@edkuba7986 I think the ecu has died sadly based on this. You can swap them over just need the right serial number.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering from my understanding you cant just swap them because each ecu has its own keys, it would have to be relearned by Ford or companies that specialize for that stuff?
Never seen an alternator on the top of the engine in a Ford focus ZX4 😮
It's round the back isn't it? Or lower down