I have built probably 30 or 40 big blocks for myself, friends and such and only once did I ever take out the plugs on the heads. Did it only once cause realized it wasn't worth the hassle. Just my personal experience and opinion. Otherwise keep up the good work and look forward to seeing the progress. My opinion is run it as is. Also much props to you guys for admitting your inexperience, too many people can't admit it and think it's awesome you own it. We all gotta learn and start somewhere. Good job!!!!
Once it's running put a gallon of evaporust in the radiator and fill rest up with water . Cycle it a few times and let sit in the block for a few days before draining it out. It will stop the rust and seal the block. I've done this several times and it works.
I am impressed with Olivia's automotive engine knowledge. I'm also impressed with Danny's aged paint skills. Congrats to Liam!!! I have been praying, and will continue to do so, for God's mercy on the state of California and the citizens thereof concerning the tragic fires you guys are experiencing. Jesus Saves!!!
I worked at an automotive machine shop. To remove rusted bolts, we heated the bolt, and then touched a household candle to it. The wax melts and seeps into the threads. It works better than any penetrating products. Tell 'em you heard it here! Ha ha!
Glad you guys were safe from the tragedies, I know many weren't so fortunate. Enjoyed the video. Hope it reaches many people and gives them inspiration and knowledge of things that most anyone can accomplish in a few days of wrenching.
The casting numbers on your block is actaully 3999289, which represents Big Block V8 1971-1979 454, 2 bolt or 4 bolt, some CE replacement blocks had four bolt main caps.
Awesome progress and there is always something to be learned watching your videos. Glad to see you have a young guy interested in keeping the hobby alive. Love these tri-fives 🙂
Too Cool! You're safe from the fires!!! So, a few things I'd comment on but none of it matters. Im glad you guy's are safe and still making it happen! I will say that I am one of them that would like to see you run it "as is" and go from there. Oh, Im glad you move right on past any little set backs... Don't cry over spilled milk or broken pipe plugs!
If you want put the pressure washer up to the small plug holes to blow it out good. I wonder how the inside of the engine looks. Maybe use a boroscope to find out?
Hi. I think it's great. Helping out that. Kid. He'll learn alot from you guys . I'm so glad you guys are safe. From the fire. .I was worried about you after I saw the. Pacific. The Highway. A mess. And all those power lines. Twisted and. Down. ..can't wait to see that engine back in that car .have a great week. And please. Stay safe my friends. .peace .
You guys are pretty chill considering the fire situation. I live in northern Manitoba, Canada. Last year we had a forest fire take out several miles of fibre-optic cable, severing almost all of our communication to the outside world. We were about 4 or 5 days with only one ATM in town working, NO internet, almost no phone service. It was bananas!
You are right if it ain't broke don't fix it only what needs fixing but do put a new waterproof on it because the water pump is probably going to leak soon if it doesn't already after sitting so long that the freeze plugs rotted out!😊😊😊❤
You should pull the threaded drain plugs on both sides of the motor which will let you flush the water jackets below the level of the frost plugs. They are on the middle just above the oil pan gasket near the motor mounts on both sides.
Be careful about the valve springs , a few of them might be low on tension because sitting for years with some of the springs compressed. The next problem will be if the springs are rusty, could cause them to fail once you start running the engine . Still worried about that transmission adapter, it looks like the dowel pin and the lower bellhousing bolt are not at the same level as the upper bolts . Just so you know a Chevy bellhousing, and a BOP bellhousing are a different pattern, the only part that is the same is the lowest bolt and the dowel pins. The upper 4 bolts are a different pattern. The fact that the upper adapter is thick, is compensated for by modifying the torque converter, which yours looks like it's modified . Good luck , super cool project !
Danny did an amazing job on that firewall, looks so good! I like what you're doing with the engine, why tear it down if it runs so nice? I think it'll be fine. There are so many old engines that have been revived and put back on the road, this is no different. Besides, it's your car, your time, your money and your channel, do what works best for you! Liam got a nice opportunity, I would love to work with you guys! As usual, another great video, love this project.
Wondering if you did a compression check on all cylinders yet? I would replace all the valve oil seals, Pbly dried out and cracked ready to fall apart. You could chk for any bent push rods b4 you tach it up to high RPMs. Enjoy all your vids. TY Kev in CT
Y’all are doing the right thing on that engine, fix what needs fixed and go with it. People love to spend other people’s money and time. Y’all aren’t chasing a points championship with this thing. Love the car and how y’all are handling it. Press on, have fun, ignore some people!!🍻✌️
Idk how long y'all take I'll watch the whole 5 hrs while you work on your cars 😄😄 that's how bad I'm in it this addiction of mine.😜 Guys did a good job just get as much rust as you can or w a sander n light grit then green primer it's like acid to stop the rust n black satin primer on top ❤️👍.
Told you you had to get it out. It's better this way now you can see in detail what needs to be replaced. Those that tell you to run it as is don't really know your condition of status on the car or history n don't care. Take it out start fresh but before you start buying ask yourselves what can you do as for up grades to make it more bad ass n accessable to parts in the bay on the engine. Don't run as is it's gonna be more expensive when you gotta get the tow truck or the block goes boom lol.
It's not going to be easy to find replacement core plugs for those heads. They are a uncommon short length cast iron plug that isn't sold in general hardware stores. Longer length 5/8 plugs are more common but they bottom out in the head before the threads can get a tight enough seal.
Nice video I like all your videos actually. I'm glad you're safe from the fires as well. Now as for your official " RAT MOTOR " pretty dang gnarly the whole car is actually. If it was mine in those valve covers were sitting right in front of my face I pull those off just to make sure everything's on the up-and-up inside just my opinion excellent videos I look forward to next week
I like the vibe you guys are going with. Yea, sure, it's obvious that the motor needs to be completely gone through, but why not just clean it up the best you can and get it running, as is? What do you have to loose? Just a bit of your time and a couple of bucks, maybe? New freeze plugs, and a couple of cans of spray paint. It will be fun to see how it does. Why not? So cool to have Ian there to give you a hand. He looks like he knows how to turn a wrench or two. Not his first rodeo. Seriously though, I like where this is going! I'm really looking forward to next Tuesday to see how it goes. Great video.
New freeze plugs are a wise start, but Intake and Head gasket water passages are likely corroded too. When the water pressure maximizes during a dragstrip run, you risk water leaking out on the tires at mid track and crashing at high speed.
When I was younger (IE...No Money lol) Grandpa told Me to help clean out a Old Radiator he would put about 1/2 cup of powdered Laundry soap, not liquid soap. Run the engine for a week or so, then a good Flush of the Engine and Radiator! Can't hurt, then add a Filter before and after the Radiator rebuild.
Personally I would check the valve springs if sitting that long you likely have 1 set that are compressed they will run but as soon as you hit high RPM the keepers will come out then you have a valve dropping
Not a BOP rear. Just an OP. They were used in 57-64 Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles. 9.3 ring gear. Very strong rear end. Used in most gassers in the day and even front engine fuel cars, altereds, etc. You can still by parts for them. Mark Williams, and FabCraft sells axles, spools, gears, etc.
Well you have already run this engine, and it does seem to have no major issues except the leakage from the core plugs rusting out from sitting. I had the same thing when I acquired a 68 El Camino that had been wrecked but was original and I got the engine running (which ran fine). Well I cleaned this engine and replaced the core plugs and put a hotter cam in it and repainted it and put it in a 69 El Camino that I have, and right off I had a head leaking coolant so off came the heads for head gaskets (it's a crap shoot as to whether one goes into a used engine or not). I also acquired a 427 for the same car many years ago and one owner had drag raced it in a 58 Corvette. I have not run that engine and if I do install it will disassemble that engine and check everything (of course keeping all of the pieces in order to where they were installed). I also have a 46 GMC 11/2 ton flatbed that I acquired from a guy who had cobbled up an Oldsmobile engine with the TH400 (this unit was the long tail shaft version). I did not want to alter the driveshaft length so I found a Chevrolet TH400 case that had the long tail shaft end and used the guts out of another Pontiac TH400 to make me a long tail shaft TH400 with the Chevrolet bellhousing. The fellow I acquired the truck from wanted to keep the transmission, so I fixed up the one I have in the old truck now. The guts in those TH400 transmissions are interchangeable. I believe you guys are going in the right direction here just a clean up and replacing the obvious stuff. Next get Olivia a helmet and get her used to running the car down the strip. After all it is a drag car.🥸👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Yes! Don't use power tools until you know for sure your threads aren't rusted to shit you'll be out a block if you can't thread chase w a tap n die set.
That’s a 454 block . It shares the same bore size as a 427. It’s possible it has 427 pistons and crank. Rods are same length . The 427 has a shorter stroke. So the wrist pin height is different than the 454
All the love #3999289 is a 1972-78 454 car or truck 2 bolt. and from now on, try and put silicone on the freeze plugs before you put them in. It will be smeared and pinched in the radius, so it can't fall off or get pushed out?
I don't no how deep the oil pan is maybe you should put a quart of transmission fluid in the engine or just do 50/50 mix In The oil filter just let the engine run at idle then drain it so it will hopefully clean some gunk out
Man guys I might replace the intake gasket not that expensive and not that hard to do cuz if that fails it'll leak water inside your engine might be cheap insurance
I would just clean it out all new freezeplugs and maybe a timing chain I've did that on my 440 that's in my 66plymouth and it been in their since 1991😊
Danny I don't know of anybody.That takes those big plugs out of the heads like that.I wouldn't worry about them Well then you got the big plugs out. So you got plenty of room for a garden hose or something. Now, but, anyway, we all have commands, and that was mine, so you know, no no worry OKI would reproduce liquid tepline on the threads when you put the other plugs back in. I guess we'll be one of my remarks.
Yes sir and I have found that the biggest accumulation of rust in those engines is on the passenger side at the back of the engine. It must be due to the fact that the engine itself torques opposite of rotation and the angle of the engine in the engine bay is slightly downwards for the rusty water to gravitate and sit in that corner. I have a 72 Chevrolet truck that i had acquired from the original owner and the core plug over the starter had rusted out. Well when I got that plug out it was solid brown rust over in that corner. I flushed it all out with a garden hose and the driveway was solid brown from all the runoff. And also contributing to the problem was the right side engine mount was broken and you could see that the engine looked a little cock-eyed in the engine bay. Rather odd as the drivers side mount usually breaks. This truck had been purchased new and you could tell the engine had never been out of the chassis.
My guess you guys that when the previous owner had it in with that bad radiator and those free plugs leaking, he probably was first of all trying stop link and that's someone that goop that was on your finger. I bet and there's drain plugs also on the side of the block. If you just give it a real good throw or rinse it out. You'd probably be good on the engine block. In my opinion this is Milo missouri
Just a question, but isn't there a shortage of water there? Like not enough to fight the fires? I must be mistaken because you guys can flush the block. We here in the mid eastern states don't know what's true and what's fake.
Multiple sources indicate: 3999289....454.......71-79...2 or 4 bolt, some "CE" replacement blocks had four bolt main caps Note in the rear block to left of bad freeze out plug the casting says 'Hi Per Pass'! Quick research on this pretty much it is on a lot of BBC's but does not mean much.
Take a look over at Hillbilly Garage and see how good oven cleaner works for degreasing Great video, most wouldn't mess with the plugs in the heads BUT based on what we saw it was the right call.
It's a high-performance GM Block because it says it on the back of the engine right beside the cam backing plate. 396 or 454 most guaranteed it's a 4-bolt Main being a factory GM Hi Perf block
How about this: you COMPLETELY rebuild this engine and make it perfect mechanically and put it back together and make it dirty again on the outside so it looks like you didn’t do anything.
While I’m watching you wash out that block I’m reading the comments. It’s very entertaining to see what kind of idiots besides me you have watching this show. Some of these comments are way out like the guy that yelled at you. You should fix your engine. Not me I learned it’s your engine do what you want. Too much entertainment 😂🤣😂🤣😂😆😆😆😆
You sure that's a 3999288 no. Are you sure it's not a 3999289 because this was used on vettes chevelles elcaminos etc,. In the 70's the cast # reflect whether it's a 2 bolt or 4 bolt.... If this is a 289 Casting no. it says it's a 454 2 bolt.
I really think it's great of you helping the young man with time and hands on work, is always the best
I have built probably 30 or 40 big blocks for myself, friends and such and only once did I ever take out the plugs on the heads. Did it only once cause realized it wasn't worth the hassle. Just my personal experience and opinion. Otherwise keep up the good work and look forward to seeing the progress. My opinion is run it as is. Also much props to you guys for admitting your inexperience, too many people can't admit it and think it's awesome you own it. We all gotta learn and start somewhere. Good job!!!!
Once it's running put a gallon of evaporust in the radiator and fill rest up with water . Cycle it a few times and let sit in the block for a few days before draining it out. It will stop the rust and seal the block. I've done this several times and it works.
Fantastic job on the patina blend in the engine bay.😃 Good stuff guys!
Glad you two are patching up the engine from the 56 and giving it a chance.. Looking forward to seeing that car run..
Really glad to see Liam so interested in the old rods. Young people like him will keep the sport alive. Thanks for bringing him on
I am impressed with Olivia's automotive engine knowledge. I'm also impressed with Danny's aged paint skills. Congrats to Liam!!! I have been praying, and will continue to do so, for God's mercy on the state of California and the citizens thereof concerning the tragic fires you guys are experiencing. Jesus Saves!!!
I worked at an automotive machine shop. To remove rusted bolts, we heated the bolt, and then touched a household candle to it. The wax melts and seeps into the threads. It works better than any penetrating products. Tell 'em you heard it here! Ha ha!
I'm gonna hafta try that!
Glad you guys were safe from the tragedies, I know many weren't so fortunate. Enjoyed the video. Hope it reaches many people and gives them inspiration and knowledge of things that most anyone can accomplish in a few days of wrenching.
I really like the direction you guys are going with this awesome piece of history and Hand Tools For The Win!!!
Stoked for ol’ Blue to hit the streets! 🏁
Very cool ya got Liam on board ,
Great to see You thinking of the future of the kar Kulture !!
👌🏼⛽️🤙🏼
The casting numbers on your block is actaully 3999289, which represents Big Block V8 1971-1979 454, 2 bolt or 4 bolt, some CE replacement blocks had four bolt main caps.
Great that you are helping that young man.
Awesome progress and there is always something to be learned watching your videos. Glad to see you have a young guy interested in keeping the hobby alive. Love these tri-fives 🙂
Yeah I like all your Ideas to get this back on the road can't wait to see it at the track.
Too Cool! You're safe from the fires!!! So, a few things I'd comment on but none of it matters. Im glad you guy's are safe and still making it happen! I will say that I am one of them that would like to see you run it "as is" and go from there. Oh, Im glad you move right on past any little set backs... Don't cry over spilled milk or broken pipe plugs!
It's just over that hill..😯
Good luck Gnarly Speed! Stay safe. 😎🙏
Glad to see use the old brass freeze plugs and they don't rush out it's guna be really cool see you too cruising the 56 ok later ❤💕🏁💪🏼
This was such a good episode 🙌🏽
Thanks Hannah. Hope all is well.
appriciate you guys. Your videos are always real and educational. We are learning on our channel as well. Mustang folk lol
As always great content with positive insights, Gnarly SpeedShop strong! Keep it coming 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾
If you want put the pressure washer up to the small plug holes to blow it out good. I wonder how the inside of the engine looks. Maybe use a boroscope to find out?
Hi. I think it's great. Helping out that. Kid. He'll learn alot from you guys . I'm so glad you guys are safe. From the fire. .I was worried about you after I saw the. Pacific. The Highway. A mess. And all those power lines. Twisted and. Down. ..can't wait to see that engine back in that car .have a great week. And please. Stay safe my friends. .peace .
We really appreciate that, we're happy to be sharing this journey with you. Thank for thinking about us. We are still safe 🙏
Glad you guys are safe
Thanks
Thanks Rich
Agree with cleaning up get it running see where it goes from there. Awesome job guys !
A unknown journey ahead. Good times ahead 🤙
GOOD GOT YOUNG MAN TO HELP YALL
You did a great job with the patina paint job on the firewall and pump very impressed.
Thanks 👍
I agree with your path with the engine..
Great progress !
You guys are pretty chill considering the fire situation. I live in northern Manitoba, Canada.
Last year we had a forest fire take out several miles of fibre-optic cable, severing almost all of our communication to the outside world. We were about 4 or 5 days with only one ATM in town working, NO internet, almost no phone service.
It was bananas!
Cascade will clean the block out good. Run it through the block and leave it a few days then flush it out. If you use this tip send me a sticker 🤣
You are right if it ain't broke don't fix it only what needs fixing but do put a new waterproof on it because the water pump is probably going to leak soon if it doesn't already after sitting so long that the freeze plugs rotted out!😊😊😊❤
There's also a date code on that backside of that.Block too and tell you when it was casted
You should pull the threaded drain plugs on both sides of the motor which will let you flush the water jackets below the level of the frost plugs. They are on the middle just above the oil pan gasket near the motor mounts on both sides.
Good idea, thanks for the tip!
Be careful about the valve springs , a few of them might be low on tension because sitting for years with some of the springs compressed. The next problem will be if the springs are rusty, could cause them to fail once you start running the engine . Still worried about that transmission adapter, it looks like the dowel pin and the lower bellhousing bolt are not at the same level as the upper bolts . Just so you know a Chevy bellhousing, and a BOP bellhousing are a different pattern, the only part that is the same is the lowest bolt and the dowel pins. The upper 4 bolts are a different pattern. The fact that the upper adapter is thick, is compensated for by modifying the torque converter, which yours looks like it's modified . Good luck , super cool project !
And it's been that way for years and still works.
Danny would make a great hair dresser :P
🤣
Great job guys 👏👏💪
If you melt a crayon with a portable propane torch bottle on all those threaded Parts like those plugs they'll ease out much easier with no problem 💯
Jegs sells those bop adapters it's what he had he may have had an olds motor in it at one time or its what he had
Danny did an amazing job on that firewall, looks so good! I like what you're doing with the engine, why tear it down if it runs so nice? I think it'll be fine. There are so many old engines that have been revived and put back on the road, this is no different. Besides, it's your car, your time, your money and your channel, do what works best for you! Liam got a nice opportunity, I would love to work with you guys! As usual, another great video, love this project.
Wondering if you did a compression check on all cylinders yet? I would replace all the valve oil seals, Pbly dried out and cracked ready to fall apart. You could chk for any bent push rods b4 you tach it up to high RPMs. Enjoy all your vids. TY Kev in CT
work your magic Leon
Enjoy watching every Tuesday.
Where is Danny from?
I’m guessing mexican
Y’all are doing the right thing on that engine, fix what needs fixed and go with it. People love to spend other people’s money and time. Y’all aren’t chasing a points championship with this thing. Love the car and how y’all are handling it. Press on, have fun, ignore some people!!🍻✌️
Thanks for the positive vibes. I think you understand what we have planned for the car.
Idk how long y'all take I'll watch the whole 5 hrs while you work on your cars 😄😄 that's how bad I'm in it this addiction of mine.😜 Guys did a good job just get as much rust as you can or w a sander n light grit then green primer it's like acid to stop the rust n black satin primer on top ❤️👍.
Company is called trans Adapt transmission adapters,
Danny I don't know of anybody.That takes those big plugs out of the heads like that.I wouldn't worry about them
Probably get a lot of the old casting sand out at the same time... when running the water through to flush.
Told you you had to get it out. It's better this way now you can see in detail what needs to be replaced. Those that tell you to run it as is don't really know your condition of status on the car or history n don't care. Take it out start fresh but before you start buying ask yourselves what can you do as for up grades to make it more bad ass n accessable to parts in the bay on the engine. Don't run as is it's gonna be more expensive when you gotta get the tow truck or the block goes boom lol.
You guys should try oven cleaner to remove that heavy grease, it will also remove paint
We ran out of our supply. It does work great
Plumbing tool size for head core plug ,5/8th , heat and use TIGHT FIT
It's not going to be easy to find replacement core plugs for those heads. They are a uncommon short length cast iron plug that isn't sold in general hardware stores. Longer length 5/8 plugs are more common but they bottom out in the head before the threads can get a tight enough seal.
Just wanted to 👍 ur comment so maybe they see it.😊
Nice video I like all your videos actually. I'm glad you're safe from the fires as well. Now as for
your official " RAT MOTOR " pretty dang gnarly the whole car is actually. If it was mine in those valve covers were sitting right in front of my face I pull those off just to make sure everything's on the up-and-up inside just my opinion excellent videos I look forward to next week
We appreciate you watching! Glad you like the build.
I like the vibe you guys are going with.
Yea, sure, it's obvious that the motor needs to be completely gone through, but why not just clean it up the best you can and get it running, as is? What do you have to loose? Just a bit of your time and a couple of bucks, maybe? New freeze plugs, and a couple of cans of spray paint.
It will be fun to see how it does. Why not?
So cool to have Ian there to give you a hand. He looks like he knows how to turn a wrench or two. Not his first rodeo.
Seriously though, I like where this is going!
I'm really looking forward to next Tuesday to see how it goes.
Great video.
Well, could lose this motor if it drops a valve or jumps time @ hi rpm. There's that! 🥺
Stay safe guys.
Thanks
You can always change the valve springs later if they are week from sitting so long.
But it would be Too Late if it drops a valve @hi rpm...💥
It's all good D you where careful not to round it out it happens w old engines. Nice recovery tho 👍👍
It was most likely made by trans dept
New freeze plugs are a wise start, but Intake and Head gasket water passages are likely corroded too.
When the water pressure maximizes during a dragstrip run, you risk water leaking out on the tires at mid track and crashing at high speed.
When I was younger (IE...No Money lol) Grandpa told Me to help clean out a Old Radiator he would put about 1/2 cup of powdered Laundry soap, not liquid soap. Run the engine for a week or so, then a good Flush of the Engine and Radiator! Can't hurt, then add a Filter before and after the Radiator rebuild.
First I've heard of this flush method. Sounds like it could work 👍
Calgon water softener is what we used when I worked on surface mine. Straight water and a box of Calgon and run for a few days. Clean as a whistle.
Personally I would check the valve springs if sitting that long you likely have 1 set that are compressed they will run but as soon as you hit high RPM the keepers will come out then you have a valve dropping
You do patina match pretty darn good. I typically try to make things look new. But in this case I understand.
They still sell those plates, I had to have one to adapt a 4L80E to my Pontiac 463 in my 68 Firebird.
An Pontiac 455 would be cool like my brother did with the 66 Chevy truck.
You can tell if it's a cast crank or steel by looking at parting line on flange of crank.
Great idea. We will check before installing the flex plate 🍽
Not a BOP rear. Just an OP. They were used in 57-64 Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles. 9.3 ring gear. Very strong rear end. Used in most gassers in the day and even front engine fuel cars, altereds, etc. You can still by parts for them. Mark Williams, and FabCraft sells axles, spools, gears, etc.
Well you have already run this engine, and it does seem to have no major issues except the leakage from the core plugs rusting out from sitting. I had the same thing when I acquired a 68 El Camino that had been wrecked but was original and I got the engine running (which ran fine). Well I cleaned this engine and replaced the core plugs and put a hotter cam in it and repainted it and put it in a 69 El Camino that I have, and right off I had a head leaking coolant so off came the heads for head gaskets (it's a crap shoot as to whether one goes into a used engine or not). I also acquired a 427 for the same car many years ago and one owner had drag raced it in a 58 Corvette. I have not run that engine and if I do install it will disassemble that engine and check everything (of course keeping all of the pieces in order to where they were installed). I also have a 46 GMC 11/2 ton flatbed that I acquired from a guy who had cobbled up an Oldsmobile engine with the TH400 (this unit was the long tail shaft version). I did not want to alter the driveshaft length so I found a Chevrolet TH400 case that had the long tail shaft end and used the guts out of another Pontiac TH400 to make me a long tail shaft TH400 with the Chevrolet bellhousing. The fellow I acquired the truck from wanted to keep the transmission, so I fixed up the one I have in the old truck now. The guts in those TH400 transmissions are interchangeable. I believe you guys are going in the right direction here just a clean up and replacing the obvious stuff. Next get Olivia a helmet and get her used to running the car down the strip. After all it is a drag car.🥸👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with us. We will be rolling the dice 🎲 🤪
Yes! Don't use power tools until you know for sure your threads aren't rusted to shit you'll be out a block if you can't thread chase w a tap n die set.
That’s a 454 block . It shares the same bore size as a 427. It’s possible it has 427 pistons and crank. Rods are same length . The 427 has a shorter stroke. So the wrist pin height is different than the 454
All the love #3999289 is a 1972-78 454 car or truck 2 bolt. and from now on, try and put silicone on the freeze plugs before you put them in. It will be smeared and pinched in the radius, so it can't fall off or get pushed out?
When I was young and didn't know much about #WixFilters that was the go to filter the #AcDelco PF 35 for all the V8 Chevrolet engines
The water pump motor is a heater blower motor from a 70's pickup with a single speed so if you have a good parts guy it can be easily sourced.
Good catch, we'll definitely look into that!
Change the freeze plugs, flush it out good, drop it back in, slap the Dominator on it and run it!
Make it safe and dont oil down the dragstrip for other people.
I don't no how deep the oil pan is maybe you should put a quart of transmission fluid in the engine or just do 50/50 mix In The oil filter just let the engine run at idle then drain it so it will hopefully clean some gunk out
Man guys I might replace the intake gasket not that expensive and not that hard to do cuz if that fails it'll leak water inside your engine might be cheap insurance
I would just clean it out all new freezeplugs and maybe a timing chain I've did that on my 440 that's in my 66plymouth and it been in their since 1991😊
Danny I don't know of anybody.That takes those big plugs out of the heads like that.I wouldn't worry about them Well then you got the big plugs out. So you got plenty of room for a garden hose or something. Now, but, anyway, we all have commands, and that was mine, so you know, no no worry OKI would reproduce liquid tepline on the threads when you put the other plugs back in. I guess we'll be one of my remarks.
Yes sir and I have found that the biggest accumulation of rust in those engines is on the passenger side at the back of the engine. It must be due to the fact that the engine itself torques opposite of rotation and the angle of the engine in the engine bay is slightly downwards for the rusty water to gravitate and sit in that corner. I have a 72 Chevrolet truck that i had acquired from the original owner and the core plug over the starter had rusted out. Well when I got that plug out it was solid brown rust over in that corner. I flushed it all out with a garden hose and the driveway was solid brown from all the runoff. And also contributing to the problem was the right side engine mount was broken and you could see that the engine looked a little cock-eyed in the engine bay. Rather odd as the drivers side mount usually breaks. This truck had been purchased new and you could tell the engine had never been out of the chassis.
Matching the rust patina on the new water pump, to erase sore thumb new look ! ? Different world
My guess you guys that when the previous owner had it in with that bad radiator and those free plugs leaking, he probably was first of all trying stop link and that's someone that goop that was on your finger. I bet and there's drain plugs also on the side of the block. If you just give it a real good throw or rinse it out. You'd probably be good on the engine block. In my opinion this is Milo missouri
Better than brand new look, (water pump) better filthy engine interior. Journals, lobes, cylinders, valves . . .
You need to find out if that water pump is made for that ❤❤❤
Get some bronze plugs in those heads they will last longer.
Just a question, but isn't there a shortage of water there? Like not enough to fight the fires? I must be mistaken because you guys can flush the block. We here in the mid eastern states don't know what's true and what's fake.
Multiple sources indicate: 3999289....454.......71-79...2 or 4 bolt, some "CE" replacement blocks had four bolt main caps
Note in the rear block to left of bad freeze out plug the casting says 'Hi Per Pass'! Quick research on this pretty much it is on a lot of BBC's but does not mean much.
Take a look over at Hillbilly Garage and see how good oven cleaner works for degreasing
Great video, most wouldn't mess with the plugs in the heads BUT based on what we saw it was the right call.
I think that casting number if the last number is 8 it’s a replacement block an if it’s a 9 it’s 72-79 454 2 bolt
The reason people use BOP transmissions is because there are more of them out there.
I never bothered taking out the big head bolts.
You need knee pads Danny ,when you get to a old man you'll wish you did have a rubber mat like they use it the stores
It's a high-performance GM Block because it says it on the back of the engine right beside the cam backing plate. 396 or 454 most guaranteed it's a 4-bolt Main being a factory GM Hi Perf block
Good eye
Idk looks more need totally rebuild but good luck
How about this: you COMPLETELY rebuild this engine and make it perfect mechanically and put it back together and make it dirty again on the outside so it looks like you didn’t do anything.
How about you COMPLETELY send us $3,000.00 and we will do just that! Deal?
Do it your own way, I've been working on my old Volkswagens for over 20 years and never use power tools
While I’m watching you wash out that block I’m reading the comments. It’s very entertaining to see what kind of idiots besides me you have watching this show. Some of these comments are way out like the guy that yelled at you. You should fix your engine. Not me I learned it’s your engine do what you want.
Too much entertainment 😂🤣😂🤣😂😆😆😆😆
There are 5 RUclips Pontiac tempest - non patina JEWELS
Put a filter on the cooling system? I don't think so.
Danny has a lot of girl in him
???
Not a big deal antifreeze is corrosive to freeze plugs only last 20 years anyway head gaskets need to be replaced
Personally I would take out old water pump and have it rebuilt because you don't find them old castings anywhere no more
Why not call it blue lies?
You sure that's a 3999288 no. Are you sure it's not a 3999289 because this was used on vettes chevelles elcaminos etc,. In the 70's the cast # reflect whether it's a 2 bolt or 4 bolt....
If this is a 289 Casting no. it says it's a 454 2 bolt.
Just keep the gas cap and drive new Chevy under it .😂