Mercedes CLK 320 how to change the alternator
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2021
- Today I will be showing you how to change the alternator on a Mercedes CLK 320.
This layout is based on m112 V6 configuration so no confusion with the better V8 model.
Tools required:
Socket set with a 10mm, 13mm & 17mm drive.
Female TRX-STAR Socket set or E14 socket
Small hammer
Crowbar and small pry bar
This is my first video of me DIY-ing my car but have many years experience so any questions please ask. If have changed the alternator and still not getting any power it could be a faulty battery or wiring loom. So please make sure to check these before attempting this job.
thanks again for watching, like and subscribe and see you in the next one 
Игры
Perfect tutorial. My radiator burnt and I have just followed your tuto and ordered a new Valero part. Many thanks,
I am sorry for such a basic question, but I couldn’t watch it in the video, notice how the new part has 2 connections at the back, one long screw and one short, to which one did you connect the power to? I am changing mine today and I forgot which one was the power connected to the
Been a while since I looked back on this video. Where the 13mm nut holds the earth wire so shorter of the 2. The other is a 12v wire which plugs into the back so longs if you disconnect those 2 it should be freed up. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Changing mine today😭 just hit 84k miles
@@Nate-ui5es still low mileage for the age, great cars! Mine was mechanically sound until someone crashed into the side of it was absolutely gutted! Got myself a XKR now everything is wrong with it 😂 had it for 2 years now but such a great bit of kit. Going to save up some money and get a clk again so I can do more content as most repairs are pretty straightforward with the v6
I have a 2005 Clk 55 & Was looking to diy the alternator swap, do you have any insight you could give?
Engine is very similar just extra parts, the pulley still works the same to get the auxiliary belt off although it will be tighter due to the fan pack. I'd recommend after getting the belt off and jack the car up or ramps and unbolt from underneath. I barely got the alternator in or out on the V6 so definitely get at it from underneath. Hope this helps and good luck 👍
Your video helped me to successfully remove the old alternator on my 2005 CLK320 & install a new one. However, there is absolutely no power. So I disconnected and removed the battery, which I purchased new about 5 days ago but the bad alternator had pulled the voltage down to 10.something. I have it on trickle charge since it's in a friend's garage and I removed the new alternator & took it back to O'Reillys for a Bench test which had good results. The guy suggested a possible foe, that being a popped the fusible link??? Any ideas from your end because I was so confident I had done an impeccable job (as to the removal & replacement)??
P.S. Please, what did I do wrong?
Short history - 'Battery visit workshop' indicator light on - checked poly-v belt-it was good - purchased new battery. 'Battery visit workshop' indicator light still on - checked manual and it stated if v-belt good then alternator amiss - confirmed by test done @O'Reilly's. Bought new alternator. Followed video instructions completely and after hooking battery back up so I could check voltage on instrument panel - vehicle dead no power.
What condition are your wires connecting to the battery terminals? Worth checking for signs of corrosion or possible damaged wires? Check the wiring at the back of the alternator and make sure it's earthing properly yet again could do with corrosion or faulty earth wire. Bit of a headache but it's process of elimination at this point when you have a new battery and alternator. Make sure the part number is the same as the old one. Battery voltage could be low and may just need charging whilst the computer reprograms itself. Also a fuse could have gone too preventing it from charging due to causing a short. Best to Google the fusible link and getting the diagram so you know where to look. Hope this helps and I'll see if I can look into it more 👍
I am on Instagram as xkr-mat so if you wish to show me a quick video on what's happening with your car I'll gladly help
@@xkr-mat I didn't video record the procedure but I followed the above one to a 'T'. And only took one photo of the poly-v belt before I released the tension so that I would put it back in place correctly. But that might be a good idea for me to do going forward while trying to rectify it and hopefully fix what I had set out to do.
Thank you again for your quick reply - very much appreciated.
I'll keep you posted after the weekend when i will have had some more time to work on it.
@@xkr-mat Thank you ... for the timely response..my next step is to check the fusible link and test all the fuses in the engine compartment that are part of the electrical system. I'll look at the wiring again and the contact points for damage/wear signs. As for the removal and install, i followed the instructions meticulously, matched part to part, checked the plug on the back of the alternator - I was actually quite surprised at the outcome because I thought the procedure was going to be successful and I would start my car and follow through with the voltage report on the instrument panel.
Anyway, since I've now established the new alternator is good, I'm going to re-install it and make sure the new battery is fully charged when I reconnect it after the install & go from there (it was really easy and not too much time involved). But I am wondering can I test the part that plugs into the alternator before I plug it in and once I do, how do I know it's making contact? You know, like before I mount and tighten the two long bolts...
@@andrearobinson7937 best getting a voltmeter and changing it to d/c and check the battery and alternator manually. If you're getting roughly 14.2 volts whilst the engine is running you know you don't have an issue with the battery or alternator and is more an electrical gremlin with the car. Any lower or higher than that you could have short in the wiring or a bad fuse for lower and if it's higher then it could be a regulator issue. You can take the alternator to a local specialist to stress test it and they'll give it a once over to see if it's in good working condition. The alternator I was given for mine turned out to be for the wrong car so the serpentine belt wasn't tight enough to charge the battery causing a drop in voltage apon start up.
I know it's a pain but it's fun working it out, got an issue with my jaguar atm and having to splice my wires on the ignition harness due to them being badly deteriorated. Hope you have good luck and resolved the issue and hope this helps
Where can i get a security socket that big?
I bought it on eBay, some kits come with a 24" 26" and 28" for less than £20
You have a lot of room. Did you remove the radiator?
Hi Michael, no I didn't need to remove the radiator to get the alternator out. Takes a little wiggling and rotating around to fish it out but when you get the nack of it, it's easy. Is yours the w208?
@@xkr-mat yes. I have a CLK 430, 2001
@@michaeldillard6145 that's with a V8 engine so it will definitely be tighter. I would recommend taking the rad out or if you can get at it from underneath that could work too. Mines a w209 V6 so it was easier to get it out. I've now got a XKR with a s/c V8 so I'll have a look at how I would get that out for reference. Is it definitely the alternator that's faulty?
@@xkr-mat I practice on one at the Salvage yard. I got it from underneath, but I also cut the belt. Not sure how I'm going to get the belt off.
Should be the same thing with a timing tensioner. No point replacing the belt if it's all good. You'll need to release it in order to get a new belt on anyways
I have a 2005 CLK 500
Yours will be easier from the bottom for better access as it would be a pain getting to fit through the top. But all bolts and wiring same process so I hope this helps 👍🏻