2.25 engine. Front seal, oil pump, chain tensioner

Поделиться
HTML-код
  • Опубликовано: 23 июл 2021
  • Be part of this channel! = britrest.com/subscriptions/
    Shop 'till you drop = www.britrest.com/shop
    utreon.com/c/britrest/videos
    www.paypal.me/britrest2018
    / britrest
    Your support is appreciated!
    If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line!
    Maybe I can help!?
    britrest@britrest.com
    Send me a postcard for my wall!
    Britannica Restorations Ltd
    9 Ch. Rawson
    Sherbrooke
    Quebec
    J1M2A3
    Canada
  • Авто/МотоАвто/Мото

Комментарии • 38

  • @cameronwood1994
    @cameronwood1994 2 года назад

    To be fair, the Repair Operation Manual does instruct you to replace the rivets with screws. The precise wording is below:
    "On initial assembly of the engine, the mud shield around the oil seal is rivetted in position but after removal in service the rivets are substituted with self tapping drive screws.
    "Where drive screws are fitted, it may be possible to renew the seal without removing the timing cover...
    "...On fitting a new seal, the mud shield should be allowed to finally pull the seal into position to ensure a positive location."
    Upon refitting, it says:
    "12. Smear the outside diameter of a new oil seal with Hylomar P1 32/M jointing compound...
    "... 14. Coat the drive screws with Hylomar and secure the mud shield."
    I hope the above helps!

  • @brianyoung9014
    @brianyoung9014 3 года назад +5

    I always drilled and tapped them for 3/16 machine screws , so the seal can be replaced in the future.

  • @stephenlowes2866
    @stephenlowes2866 3 года назад +2

    Excellent video again Mike - thank you. Fantastic engines!
    Hurry up Claude - we need the block back! 😀

  • @nickboylen6873
    @nickboylen6873 3 года назад +6

    I’d tap the holes in the casing and enlarge the holes in the mud shield to take set screws - that way, you can replace the seal in the future (next month, since it’s a Britpart seal) without removing the casing from the engine again.
    You can see how the oil pump and timing system were designed by real engineers, not “cost engineers”, before the BL rot set in.

    • @MrRobmellor
      @MrRobmellor 3 года назад +1

      There is not a lot of thickness in the aluminium casing to get many threads in by tapping them out so I would be careful with doing that as they could strip very easily, and because a coarse thread is normally used in soft aluminium you would not be able to get many threads in there making it more possible for the screw to cross-thread or strip. It's still a good idea though. Best wishes. Rob. .

    • @nickboylen6873
      @nickboylen6873 3 года назад

      @@MrRobmellor, how about rivnuts? I would think M3 or M4 would be shallow enough and prevent the need to ever drill those rivets out again.

    • @MrRobmellor
      @MrRobmellor 3 года назад +1

      @@nickboylen6873 That would be my choice, a good call Nick.

    • @nickboylen6873
      @nickboylen6873 3 года назад

      @@MrRobmellor, that’s assuming they’re shallow enough to clear the sprocket inside!

  • @garyborchert61
    @garyborchert61 3 года назад +2

    Clever design for timing chain tension , Somthing learned yet again , great video Mike 🍻

  • @jdsmort
    @jdsmort 3 года назад +1

    Don't forget the 'potential leak' at the rivets.. through the centre hole... we always used to seal them with a dab of rtv over the hole.

  • @paulboon1100
    @paulboon1100 3 года назад +3

    As I said, somethings on a Land Rover are just brilliant, beautiful engineering. Those 2.25L i had never gave me trouble and they don't mind being rev'd and worked hard either. Smooth as a baby's bottem. Gearbox/transferbox is good too, if looked after.

  • @wrongwayround359
    @wrongwayround359 3 года назад +2

    I think I'd use blind rivets, so as to ensure no oil leaks through the rivet centre

  • @fire44x
    @fire44x 3 года назад +2

    The last 1 i done i sealed the back and popriveted it on

  • @orange5fox
    @orange5fox 3 года назад +4

    Would it have been possible to tap the holes around the oil seal, instead of using rivets? Can't tell how thick the metal is from the video, but would think bolts (with sealant on the threads to prevent leaks) could make future removal much easier.

    • @Anderzander
      @Anderzander 3 года назад

      It is possible - M4 or M5 I think.

  • @yorkchris10
    @yorkchris10 3 года назад

    Saved some money on gear-driven cam.
    I can't remember seeing an oil seal guard.

  • @douglasgordon3530
    @douglasgordon3530 3 года назад +1

    I drilled and tapped, use Allan key to remove fasteners. Works like a charm, easy to get. I used M4 cap heads

  • @gazzafloss
    @gazzafloss 3 года назад +3

    It'd be nice to see yer smiling face a bit more Mike, it's like "talk to the hands", but we got to see the important bits of what you're doing, and that's what it's all about, I guess.
    Have you sold the Series 1 yet?

  • @davepearce6359
    @davepearce6359 3 года назад +1

    Fascinating watching again, thanks Mike. 😊

  • @kevinrowlands6753
    @kevinrowlands6753 3 года назад +1

    Brilliant work there mike

  • @MrRobmellor
    @MrRobmellor 3 года назад +1

    Great video as usual Mike. Glad to see that you used blind aluminium rivets, steel ones would take to much pressure before they :pop: which could damage the aluminium casing. ( due to Arthur Righteous I now use a air rivet gun ) If I get an over-sized hole like that bottom one, I just stick a washed on the inside to cover it up better. I wish that I could buy a 2.5 petrol to fit in my old defender, They are in your words, properly engineered, not cost engineered. Keep up the good work Mike, you bring back so many memories. Best wished from Yorkshire Rob.

  • @andrewk6844
    @andrewk6844 3 года назад +1

    the series land rover 3 bearing engine , I take the timing cover off and replace the seal , dont touch the dirt cover thing on the outside

  • @andrewk6844
    @andrewk6844 3 года назад +1

    yes the only difference between series and tdi 200 oil pump is the relief valve spring . Tdi needed more pressure

  • @gsylass
    @gsylass 3 года назад +1

    Can you believe that I managed to get some copper washers off eBlag that weren't magnetic? Should I ask for a refund?! ;)

  • @jasonspruce9947
    @jasonspruce9947 3 года назад

    Really sorry to say you aren’t annealing copper by letting it cool slowly you should drop the washer in water it’s the opposite of steel

  • @paulbarnard5267
    @paulbarnard5267 3 года назад

    It looked like those were open ended rivets. It would be better to use closed end rivers.

    • @deemtube
      @deemtube 3 года назад

      Paul, I think you are right. These open ones can leak. Land Rover uses these gas/waterproof rivets on the body as well.

  • @markd4671
    @markd4671 3 года назад

    What is the significance of the grooves in the corners of the flats on the bolt that holds in the spring,piston and ball of the relief valve? Shown at time 13.19. Thank you.

    • @WhosAGoodDogue
      @WhosAGoodDogue 3 года назад +1

      I have racing banjo bolts on my motorcycle master cylinder that have these grooves - to allow for ''lockwiring'', (which is tightly twisting fine wire round the head of the bolt (the wire sits in the groove), and then attaching the other end of the wire to another bolt) It prevents the bolt from turning, loosening, or coming out. Modern safety bolts can have multiple holes drilled in the side of the head so it's easier to slip the wire through. But, I may be wrong for this oil pump bolt and hopefully Mike ccould correct and edjumacate me...

    • @markd4671
      @markd4671 3 года назад +2

      @@WhosAGoodDogue I have seen them on propane and other gas bottle fittings which makes sense if a type of locking method but do not recall seeing them actually wired.

    • @brendanredgate4594
      @brendanredgate4594 3 года назад

      The groove is there to identify unf thread.

    • @markd4671
      @markd4671 3 года назад

      @@brendanredgate4594 I looked at lots of pictures of UNF bolts and nuts and cannot find ones with the grooves. However these markings on BSP gas fittings indicate they are left hand thread but the fitting in the video is right hand thread.

  • @vincentpoole7588
    @vincentpoole7588 3 года назад

    Mike. Those lazy ass mothers drilling out the dust shield for your front seal ! Would pop rivets stop any oil leaking ? V.