Power Inverter - Wicked Full Install - AC Power for your Car or Truck
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Housing: Want AC power outlets in your car, truck or van? You will need a POWER INVERTER. This video is a step by step how-to that shows the whole installation process.
I installed this 1000 watt inverter in my F150 but the process will be similar for just about any vehicle. As with most of my videos there is some 3D printing involved! This is not required for an install but it definitely adds to the functionality. If you have an 2009-2014 F150 (aka Lobo) and like these prints you can find the files in the description below.
Update! When running the positive wire from the battery it's best to have a fuse/breaker within 6"-12" of the battery. This will stop the flow of power in the event of a collision or other damage to the wire.
I'm now on Patreon!! The reward levels are very basic for the time being but I promise to bring merch and other perks in the future.
/ the3dhandyman
-- Shopping List -- Buying from these links helps support the channel!
Power Inverter: amzn.to/3nZ4qJ9
Jumper Cables: amzn.to/32AMfCl
Circuit Breaker (80A): amzn.to/3bhRNpL
Circuit Breaker (100A): amzn.to/3BOs3w7
Power Strip: amzn.to/3IFJ23Q
Cable Lugs: amzn.to/3u1Y7bE
Split Loom Cable protector: amzn.to/3IHmJut
Heat Shrink Tubing: amzn.to/3fYCbGr
-- 3D Print Files -- Build/use at your own risk!
Housing: www.thingivers...
You can also but the print from our Etsy Shop!
www.etsy.com/l... - Хобби
The loud beeping sound is because the starter motor draws alot of current and drops the voltage below the inverter's low voltage protection.
Thanks for clarifying! That's good to know
That is the cleanest install I have ever seen. And I do them all the time. Definitely earned a like.
Matthew Terry is it possible to power a pressure washer off a car battery for moderate amounts of time?. Say with a stronger and bigger battery and if so what kinda setup would you recommend as I'm a mobile detailer.
This is the most unique and clean video filming and editing I seen in a long time. The info given and the install itself is all great.
Thanks Bro!
Don't have a 3D printer? The 3D Handyman now offers 3D prints!
You can buy the Inverter Housing here. Please allow a few days for printing...
www.etsy.com/listing/1223117781
Do you know if this inverter would be strong enough to do an electric start on a gas-powered snowblower? It's just to start it up
@@louis3141 Seemingly. This one should put out about 7-8amps @120 volts
@@The3DHandyman Ok thanks
I followed these instructions to the T, ordered the products listed and the 3D prints and by far the best purchase I have made. Install instructions on this video were amazing and easy to follow. If you have been thinking about doing this, do it and do it through this video.
Happy to hear everything has worked great for you!
A few critiques.
1. You really should have some overcurrent protection (fuse or breaker) within 6-12" of the connection to the battery. This minimizes the risk of the cable getting damaged, shorting out, and causing a fire. The likely good if this happening is small but does potentially exist with animals or an accident. As it currently is installed the line is unprotected from the battery to your breaker under the seat.
2. I've hooked up a fluke VR1710 to one of those Schumacher inverters and the power quality coming off of it is a quintessential modified sine wave. Ok for non sensitive electronics but I'd have some reservation about plugging in anything sensitive to one as you pointed out. If you ever decide to swap it out the xantrex prowatt SW1000 would be a good replacement that's not horrendously expensive. Power quality isn't perfect but likely better than your wall power at home. I've got their prosine 1800 in multiple company vehicles. They're about as perfect as you can get but stupid expensive and large.
Other than that you're install is super clean. The wire lug covers you used was a really good idea. I probably would have grounded out to the same point out maybe the seatbelt retractor mounting bolt in the b pillar, mostly to save wire and not drill a hole. Looks like the seat rail to body bolts would have been a pain with the plastic trim covers.
Great comment MB! Very good to know about the reasoning behind having a fuse within 6-12" of the battery. I'll mount one of those when I get a chance and will add that info to the video.
As far as pure sine wave goes those units you mentioned look great but are a little pricy for the mount of use I'd currently get out of them. For the future I was looking at the GoWISE Power 600W. I would loose almost half of the current wattage but the form factor is pretty close to the Schumacher that's in there now. Any experience with that brand?
@@The3DHandyman No experience with them directly. Based on the specs with less than 3% THD it's likely a lot better than what you've currently got. I'd check on solar power forums/message boards for comments on it's performance or alternative options for brands.
I can see if the boss might sign off on getting one by that company to test out as we need a few more inverters. But I can't promise it will happen. If we do I can hook up the 1710 to it and check it's performance.
Also worth noting the interior of your vehicle likely will exceede the factor storage temp ranges. We have routinely experienced failures even with premium brands due to this. In my previous career we learned to plan to life cycle them every year due to extreme heat in the desert since we needed reliable vehicle power from the inverters. Just something to keep in mind.
@@KITDFOHS That would be amazing but of course not necessary! Many thanks for the offer. If you do get one, be sure to let us know how it tests out.
Hi there, thank y'all both for all this good info. Wondering what sized fuse/breaker you'd use? Could you link to one w the appropriate specs?
@@leahgilman You need to calculate your max current draw and pick a breaker slightly larger than that. Search on amazon for a "Marine Circuit Breaker" and you'll find plenty of options.
Your breaker should be as close to the positive terminal as possible
True. I have added a secondary breaker next to the battery as recommended by a lot of commenters.
Nifty work man .. very nice and clean. Have you found out why your truck makes that beeping sound when starting while the inverter is on the ON position?
Than you. It apparently beeps because there is an unexpected power draw on startup. I like to keep the unit off for that reason until the vehicle is running for that reason.
Clean….
Really nice ,well thought out , super clean , and practical install you out a lot of thine and thought into every detail. I love when you can see that in someone’s work bravo
Hey, that was really satisfying to watch. Makes me want to install an inverter in my truck now.
Thanks Tucker! Glad you liked the presentation
I have never seen a tutorial video this clean before. I wish everything I look for in a project had such clear steps and examples.
I do like obsessing over the details. Thanks for the comment!
Dump that inverter and get a pure sine way you won't be sorry. I have had 110 ac in almost of the cars I have owned. As a photographer videographer I need power and coffee. One of my coffee maker refused to work with a modified sine wave type inverter . I even run a electric frying pan with mine. Also if you are going to use and inverter get a 12 volt circuit breaker and a Blue Sea charger isolator as well as a marine AGM type battery. Good luck.
I will make that upgrade one day. Thanks for the tips!
@@The3DHandyman anytime my friend that's what friends are for
Of note: When you drop a bolt in the a-pillar, you don't have to listen to it for 100,000 miles. Simply drop a magnet down there too. (Might need a stick and duct tape to get the placement right...) Had this scenario with a welding slag bb in the top rail of a Volkswagon.
Nice clean install. You do good work, and the presentation was top notch.
Thank you and thanks for the tip! Hopefully it never comes to that. haha
Bro, you need is the fuse in the battery, is good if you relocate the cable to the master fuse or find a sound system fuse
Thanks. That has been the one thing people mentioned being left out. Thanks for the comment
Modified sine wave inverters are *the best* for resistive AC loads (lights, warmers-- things that do not have spinning parts, moving parts or motors). They're the best for those kinds of devices, because there is not as much loss in producing the modified sine wave. Running a resistive load on a pure sine wave inverter is a waste. Nothing will be broken or damaged, but the loss inside the inverter to produce the sine wave makes it run batteries down much sooner. If you will be running resistive load devices on your pure sine wave inverter only when the engine is running, and never on just batteries; it doesn't mean as much and you can just run all your devices on a pure sine wave inverter.
On the other hand, never ever run an inductive load on a modified sine wave inverter, unless you know you do not care about the life of that device. They run horribly inefficient and run hot on modified sine wave inverters. They are something like the equivalent of giving your inductive device a brown-out to deal with, but you did it on purpose.
Having both on hand for each device is appropriate. Choose wisely for the type of load you are going to run. Aims is good equipment, and runs cool.
Also, as a rule, don't load them past 2/3 of their rated power. This has a lot of implications, too.
Great info! Thanks for the comment.
Great video and really nice build. I love your attention to all the small details.
Thanks Warrick! You can rely on me obsessing over details in all videos to come, haha
Excellent install! Very professional with attention to detail.
I can't tell you how happy I am you made this video.
You’re kind of a hot shot huh 😂👍💪💪.
Thank you @ The 3D Handyman. Excellent video I'd say. How is the inverter handling 🤔?
@Rizzle Riz Thanks, any time! Everything is still working great. I used it a quite a bit last year. It hasn't gotten that much of a workout since but everything still works like new.
Someone else printed one of the enclosures and is using that same inverter to charge lawnmower batteries. So far so good after 2 months of heavy use.
Would it be appropriate to ground to the battery?
That's not the traditional way of doing things in a vehicle. It creates the need for a lot more wires. Outside of that there may be additional reasons to avoid this but I don't have the experience to say for sure.
i wish i could just print things on my 3d printer when i needed it. lol Id be staring at the software for 10 yuears before i figured out how to use them
Lol, yeah. That's about how long it took me to able able to knock things out quickly
Clean install, one thing I would of done install the fuse box next to the battery just in case if for some reason it shorts out u don’t burn ur truck
That's a great idea. Thanks for the comment. I wish I had added that to the video in the first place, it was the one thing that was missing.
Dude you’re a stud!
It was a very good class Master Thank you so much
Awesome video 👏👏👏
Also for your fridge and other device. Why not just get the pure sign wave inverter? You maybe would spend 50 more dollars and never have to worry about anything ever again.
I think I had already bought the inverter after a power outage and it sat around for a year before I did the research and installed it. Otherwise, sinewave would have been the way to go, for sure.
So, I just watched this because im thinking about installing an inverter and a plug or 2 in my 99 f350 diesel. I don't do any work out of the truck, so itd just be for recreation and trips, chargers, maybe lights or a coffe pot here and there or something. Im leaning towards wiring into a toggle on the dash to switch it off and on. Thats my only thought really is dont you have any open auxiliary ports in your dash to run it on a switch in a convenient more "stock" looking location? great video, TONS of great reference for my project when I get on it
If I were to do this again, I would probably do a toggle switch in a more accessible location inside the vehicle and a fuse close to the battery. This accomplishes what I did in the video only it's a little safer and easier to work with.
Thanks for watching and have fun with your build!
Probably has been said but you should put fuse / breaker as close to battery as possible.
Yeah I dropped a fuse in there. Thanks for the thought
EXCELLENT JOB, THANK YOU SMART MAN FOR GREAT PRESENTATION!
YOU ARE VERY WELCOME!
That's impressive, but I'd rather just attach my inverter to the anchor points in the roof at the rear of my vehicle and power it from a 12V socket haha. I'm planning on doing this starting tomorrow since my 400W inverter isn't even enough to power one charger for my tool batteries, so a 1000W or 1500W inverter might be enough.
Edit: my older one can charge a battery with the vehicle off, but the vehicle needs to be running for the inverter to continuously power the fast charger. The fast charger will probably just be used as a backup for when I'm driving or need power quick.
Also a fine choice!
Well played
Muito bom
Nice install
If I where you I would buy a junction box for under the seat to protect the flammable carpet from getting lit from terminal spark also I would build a cover for the inverter so the outlets are only visible and then I would buy an external switch to hardwire it to prolly left side of stearing wheel so u could controll it from the front
Your engine won't turn on unless the inverter is off because the inverter is pulling current from your battery, which reduces your crank amps to power the ignition. By turning it off, the battery is able to provide full capacity amperage to the ignition. So either you get a battery large enough to power both or just be wise and turn off the inverter when the car is off
I was wondering when I'd get a proper explanation of this!
@@The3DHandyman I was looking for a comment explaining it too, but never found it so I figured it would help 👍🏾
@@11superstar1997 Much appreciated!
A relay wired to the ignition could also fix that problem.
@@rahenkamp1 Does the relay just delay the current draw?
great job
Damn age quite impressive, granted, ill be returning mine and sticking wiht my 410w that plus into my cigg lighter lmfao. seemed like too much worse considering i dont run any power tools or anything, ocasional scan tool and laptop
That is an easier solution. I just did a print of the inverter case for a guy that was charging large lawnmower batteries and running an air compressor while on the job. Laptop and small tools don't use quite that much juice.
Install a 50ah Lifepo4 battery under the seat and a battery contractor. So the Lifepo4 engages only when the alternator is running. Rest of the time if u power the inverter on it will only drain the lithium battery this not leaving u stranded if u forget to turn it off and fully drain the battery remember this won't be automatically shuting off till the battery is done to 10v and a car battery at 10v is useless.
Good advice!
Wow that’s pretty solid, very nice job
Thanks!
That installation looks great! I don't understand why you would go to all that work but not spend a few extra dollars for a pure sine wave?
Nice and informative! Just how I like it.
I want to do something like this in my Ranger, but I want the outlet(s) in the bed. The storage area under the rear seat (Supercrew) is useless for me since my kids' car seats are a pain to remove, so I'm thinking of using 2 6V batteries (aka golf cart batteries) in series and maybe the inverter under there. Then running the AC power to the location(s) I may want them. I'll add a battery isolator so that it only charges the 6V batteries when running. Great video BTW. great shooting angles and just enough content to not be boring.
Sounds like a fun project. Using the extra batteries is a great idea. It definitely take the stress off of the truck battery.
Are you going to 3D print a housing for the bed?
Good to hear you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the comment!
My f150 came with the inverter installed. I loved that feature. Going to do this to my Ram now. Its amazing how often you use them when you have them.
I used mine quite a bit at first for quite a few tasks. First picked it up in case of of a power outage. This way I could run the refrigerator or other essentials if need be.
I talked to one guy that used his to charge batteries for his electric mower while on the road.
@The3DHandyman lol, I use ryobi tools and have a charger for the batteries just for the fan. In texas it gets hot in the summer so we can use the fan in the tent. Damn I got old.
@@johnmichaels4330 Lol. A fan in the tent is a fine choice. I've spent far to many nights out there without one!
attaching the inverter to the battery, will it drain the vehicle battery?
Cold air hitting a hot thing won't cause condensation, that would be hot air hitting a cold thing, like your hot breath hitting cold glass. Very clean install though.
Good point 👍
Do you have the print file for the breaker mount, or can we order a breaker mount from you? I do not see that listed in the description or on your Etsy page.
Thank you for an amazing explanation!
Any time! I suppose I didn't like the breaker mount design very much and that's why I didn't post it. A preferable option for installation would be a fuse/ breaker closer to the battery in the engine compartment. This can prevent a short/fire in the event that the positive wire is damaged inside the vehicle (accident, etc). The actual power draw from the inverter in it's off state is extremely low and should not cause a problematic amount of battery drain.
Very nicely done. Is the Breaker neccessary though? what if you didn't install a Breaker?
Thanks. Good question! Its a nice lockout for the device as it can pull a small charge even when it's off. If you let your vehicle sit for a week or more then that might be an issue. Otherwise it can do without it. At the very least you do need a fuse/breaker on the power line near the battery. This is in case the wire of the inverter gets damaged and shorts out. If this were to happen it could cause a fire.
Personally I would of tapped the ground wire mount versus using a magnet and tape to hold it in place but clean install overall!
Excellent install and excellent video. Very easy to follow.
Great clean install - breaker should be as close to the battery as possible though. I've seen cars burn to the ground from a shorted power lead.
Thanks! I did end up putting an additional fuse on the line next to the battery.
How do you know what breaker to get?
Good question. The breaker is determined by the wattage and current of the power inverter. There are online calculators for this sort of stuff.
The Current is 12V and the Wattage is 1000W. The average Amperage for a unit like this is between 88-105amps. I believe this unit has 95amps printed on the side of it.
Keep in mind that a 100amp breaker may prevent the peak load of 2000watts for this unit. the 100amps rating is only for the continuous draw of 1000watts.
Nice install I may have missed it but I didn’t see an in-line fuse from the battery otherwise great video
Thanks! Good call, the inline fuse is the one thing I missed
Very interresting video, thank you, I was thinking fitting one to convert to electric heating but always wonder if it could be use when the engine is on and if the alternator could cope, does the manual says what how many amps the converter will draw ?
Cheers
The breaker that I installed is good up to 85 amps. I think that this breaker will actually limit the inverter to about 900 watts. A 750watt heater should only pull 7 amps continuously. With the engine running the alternator may be able to keep up with this level of draw, but I'm not sure.
Always use caution when running a space heater in an enclosed space!
a battery is no more than a capacitor
Well that just made me realize how shitty of a car ownership/subpar mechanical abilities i really have. Thanks for nothing Mr...also grammatical too.
Thanks for noticing my overachieving! If I didn't read off a script the videos would be 3x as long with plenty of "sooooos" and "uummmmms" not to mention long pauses and profanity. Hope that help ease your pain, lol
@The 3D Handyman Haha and modest... you really did an amazing job. My hat is off to you.
breaker should be as close as possible to battery
Well am motivated 🤩
Hey I’ve clicked on the link to purchase this from you but says not available, can you still sell one in tan color by request? Or know where I can get it done?
Hey! Message me on Etsy and we can talk more about it there. I'll take a look at tan plastic options and send you a quote. Is it a lighter tan or darker tan?
You should just take out passager seats uses bolt put the seats back....
how about a 2nd smaller battery ? ...
I'd out the breaker as close to the battery as possible
I want to install a small 400W inverter in my old '06 dodge durango, for our many roadtrips... But I'm really scared of electricity.
This video is very informative and well done. Thank you so much.
(I wonder how long that would take me, since I'm not a very 'handy' guy...)
I think they have inverters of that size that plug into a 12v cigarette lighter. That might be an easier way to go!
@@The3DHandyman yeah that's what I thought. But cigarettes lighters are 20amp. So even when I try to pull as low as 200w it'd fry the fuse, unfortunately.
@@damienc7303 Ah, that's a bummer. Good luck with the install then! One thing that was not mentioned is that it's good to put an extra fuse close to the battery on the red wire just in case the wire gets damaged. If it gets damaged then it could short and cause a fire.
Could you have found a ground location closer to the inverter? I would thing one of the seat bolt would be bolted to the frame. Great video by the way. I will be using this to put one in my expedition.
Yes, there were closer grounds like the seat bolt but they were covered in thick paint that I didn't want to scrape off so I just took the ground a little further to a spot that would work nicely. There may also be a slight safety benefit when not wiring through the seat, but I'm not sure about that.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@The3DHandyman Thanks!
Very nice
Will this setup work for charging Milwaukee m18 batteries?
The charger pulls 175-240 watts depending on which charger you are using. A 95amp fuse and the 1000watt inverter should allow you to run at least 3 chargers simultaneously.
If you are plugging in a plug with earth terminal (non double insulated appliance) into the inverter how is the car earthed if the appliance fails?
Good question. I do not know the answer to that. I imagine that all power inverters would share this issue.
Thank you very much excellent video
Thank you! I hope to do more car related videos next year some time
I have a 2009 single cab f150 I would love to install something like this
It might be possible. I'm not sure how much space is available behind the row of seats.
@@The3DHandyman O i have about a foot back there lol partly why i got it i store all my work towels back there lol as i am a window cleaner :)
Perfection!
This video is good for the learners and those who are not much tech savvy...
Awesome job and video!
Great info. Very thorough.
Or you can run it to your fuse box. Use the ciggy lighter fuse
I think that works up to about 300 watts or so
Great vid. This really helped. Getting ready to do this. Do you happen to have a link to the terminal cover boots you used at the end?
Happy to help! Here are the covers I used amzn.to/4b9OQB8
Be sure to add a fuse on the close to the battery. This can help prevent a short in the case of a crash or damaged wire. This is the one thing commenters said I missed.
Thanks for the comment!
@@The3DHandyman Just wanted to let you know that I did this today on my vehicle and it worked out great. Thank you again for making this vid. Its pretty much the only clear and concise one out there.
Small nitpick - you stated the AC vents would blow cool, moist air on the unit - it will actually blow cool, DRY air (moisture is removed at the evaporator and drains out under the truck).
Good point 👍
That's was great good ideas
Thanks Atlen!
I somewhat familiar with installing devices connected to the batter (emergency lightings/escort flashers) and have only had power inverters that use the 12V outlet. Is the breaker under the seat a necessity or just a safeguard? I want to make sure I do it the right way in my truck and am not familiar with the breaker or its purpose, so this has been super helpful, but any info on the breaker & its purpose would be helpful too! Thanks
The breaker should be installed for safety reasons just in case something shorts out. It can be better to install it closer to the battery terminal end of things as well. Check the comments for more info on that.
After 3 years you still have the set up.
Super clean, nice job sir! I see your update in the description about the fuse. Noted:) Any other lessons learned? How the system functioning?
Thanks! So far after 3 years of use, everything is working perfectly without any further updates.
If you were to do a toggle switch in the vehicle to cut power to the unit and a fuse next to the battery, this might be a more safe and convenient approach to the install. (just replied to another comment where this idea came up)
Good job!
Thank you kindly
Everything looks perfect but I have a question I know you put a kill switch but aren’t you missing a fuse on the positive close to the battery?
That is correct. You definitely want one of those close to the battery.
@@The3DHandyman thank you i loved how you connected everything ad the 3d mold bracket is awesome i always try to make everything as legit as possible but yeah i saw there was no fuse I’m no expert but fuses have saved me from a few
Very good info
Thanks! One thing that people mentioned is that there should be an additional fuse on the power line coming from the battery. This can help if the power cable becomes damaged between the breaker and the battery. Without the fuse, it could potentially cause a fire. Keep this in mind while wiring up your inverter 👍
@@The3DHandyman thank you 👍👍👍
@@fabienpics Any time. Have fun
Nice clean install (pretty much perfect). If I were to nitpick, I'd color it black, which might blend in better than the gray that doesn't match the surrounding gray.
True, the gray is close but not quite right
Great video! Thanks for the detailed explanation ☺️
Any time! Thanks for the comment
@@The3DHandyman looking forward more videos!
@@sheisphenomenalllc5867 Happy to hear it. The next video will be out this week!
awesome!!!!
Great job!
Can I purchase the 3D printed holding compartment from you. I have a 2011 f150 and the same inverter but no access to a 3d printer.
I have been thinking about setting up a print shop lately. So, my answer is maybe. Where are you located?
@@The3DHandyman call or txt me if your interested in selling the 2 pieces you 3d printed. I'll pay for shipping
@@ericgarabrandt5553 If you put your number in there, youtube removed it. Contact me here with your info cruciblecompany.com/contact/
I think I got your email, is your area code 330?
This is so salesmen. Cleanest install ever. I'd pay you to install mine whatever it costs. What am awesome job. So clean. Also best tutorial ever.
Thank you. Not sure I'd try to do that again for any cost! Haha. Best of luck with your install!
@The3DHandyman Yeah. It's a pain to install one especially with this level of quality.
I'm doing a similar install - freezer in the crew cab running off 700watt inverter - but have a question on connecting the negative wire which for me is a 6g. The two options I see are (1) connect it directly to the battery negative terminal or (2) connect it to the truck frame (which is electrically connected to the battery negative). You obviously went with option (2). Did you research the best options? Does it matter? Please share any info you have on the issue. Thanks!
I think it results in less cable used if you ground it to the frame. That may be the main reason why vehicle manufacturers ground to the frame. Do pick a nice thick part of the cab to ground it to. I picked a part that was close to an existing ground just to be extra safe.
Otherwise I think you can run it all the way to the battery if you want. It will just add to the bundle of wires already in the cab.
People have also mentioned adding a fuse to the red wire close to the battery. This will cut the power in the event that the cable is damaged for wherever reason.
How that helps!
Best way I can explain it power inverter will throw it south into a low power mode I’m trying to crank it’s all based on the battery you have the more cold cranking amps and cranking amps you have stronger battery would help also upgrading to a little bit stronger alternator if you feel it’s necessary that would also help
Thanks for the info!
Great install!
how you made it?
With a 3D modeling program and a 3D printer. It's free to download and you can have some company online print it for you