Don’t use chain, chain doesn’t give if you hit stumps. Use a cog belt bc if you were to hit a stump you wouldn’t chance tearing everything up. For your trim you could always mount a small 4 wheeler winch and use it as your trim or just use all thread with a slanted piece of the transom and it’ll trim it up or down. If you could get a shaft made go hex way better then just a regular threaded shaft. And you’d have more options on props. 2 blades are good props but 3 blades cut down on vibration.
Did you ever build your surface drive? I'm curious how it turned out .I'm thinking about building one myself but I'm curious how well it will do for comercial catfishing.....I had a guy on here tell me a way to build one with reverse ...,check out his surface drive it's here on you tube under DIY surface drive for 250 bucks ....,.he doesn't have reverse but he is the guy that explained to me how to build one...When you look at his video you'll see he used a single belt...I reccomend building just like he did except instead of the belt use a double roller number 35 chain and some sprockets...I think it will hold up better that way.....Check him out it's not a bad build at all ...the reverse ideal he gave me is pretty slick and it's cheap ....if your interested in it let me know and I can explain by pH or give you an email address ....I think there is a market for a surface drive built strong but cheaper than some I see....if I had ten grand to spend I just don't see ten grand in a surface drive ...some are built better and more complicated but that also means when you break it more money ....what's your take on one of these out drives for catfishing with barrel nets? I broke starter mounts on my 35 hp Mercury witch junked a otherwise good motor so I'm tierd of old outboards and can't afford a new one
It’s been a month since you posted the video so you’re probably flooded with opinions. If so, good luck. If not, You’re asking several questions that are critical to the success of your build. Not sure what the best way is to get in touch but I’ll check in
Get you the juggernaut torque converter from go power sports it’s meant to take a lot of abuse and is very flexible while mounting it will give you great torque while starting out but won’t hurt your top speed since it has a 10% over drive
Ive been trying to blueprints so can build one out of stainless. 90% of my fishing and hunting is in saltwater and no one makes a stainless kit i know it'll be expensive but it would last so much longer.
I'm by no means an expert, but in my expert opinion I would say steel would be the better option for the pulley box assembly. If you are running shallow or running through the swamp, it will likely take some abuse from the impact of logs, ECT. The steel will hopefully bend before it breaks. #2 length of the prop shaft will be easier to figure out once you know the height of the pulley box. You'll want 6" or so past the angled support coming of the back of the motor( support would ideally be near 45°).
I’m ready to help! I’ve been watching you’re channels and have thought the same about that question… can you do it yourself? I’ve recently ordered a predator 670, performance 670 upgrades, and a mud skipper lower surface drive unit. So I know I’ll be modifying and “sending it” real soon! I have a welding and engineering background so for one question; aluminum will be good on the housing. Since you won’t be casting it since likely you can’t and won’t want too (lol), make sure the welds are sound sir on your fabricated housing unit. In all test, test and repeat for the most part that’s why I took the “easier” road. :)
I built a turbo diesel surface drive all out of 1/4 aluminum and it’s plenty strong. I actually think 1/4 aluminum everywhere is over kill and I should have went thinner in some places to save weight. For the bearings I just use a brass flange bearing at the prop and a pillow block at the back of the housing to handle the thrust. All in all, it works a hell of a lot better than I thought it would considering how heavy the diesel is but I’m still experimenting with ratios and prop sizes
That is awesome that you got it working. If you don't mind helping me out, could you send me some pictures on instagram or facebook of your build and any details you care to share, it would be greatly appreciated.
@@SendItJonBoats sure I send some pictures and what ever info you need just ask. I used what I had laying around so it’s not pretty or ideal and there’s a lot of area for improvement and weight saving but it works great. I have a few videos on RUclips of me running it and testing it
I vote for an inboard motor build with a cv axle on the outside of transom for up down side to side movement ,,or a ujoint may work as well Come out say six inches from bottom of boat ,mayb a 4 foot shaft starting out,, Kind of a mud boat style but a through transom style like the shark boats but on a smaller scale
I've been wanting to try making a short tail for my boat too. Biggest thoughts is if you mount the tail to a housing is the bearings already sealed from water? I would think getting water and sand in tail would cause issues in the lower end
They make sealed bearings you can get at a bearing house or auto parts store. You have to have a good sealing belt cover. I know on go devil surface drives you can just use silicone to keep water out of your belt housing.
I've looked into this myself I think racing kart chainsaws sprockets would work well I also think racing kart belts will work and your housing can be built at a length you could test and shorten or make longer. It's also very simple to change gear rations per kart racing but the correct hearing to me depends on prop size and pitch if using your straight drive prop I'd say you want same top and bottom gear since it turns on a straight drive the same speed as motor.....with kart engine parts I can build a smaller 13 hp to produce more hp than the stock 22....I suggest looking at race kart parts for all different reasons bc you hv alot of options there and I suggest sealing the housing to protect the bearings or use a down shaft motor and modify a mercury lower unit
I have a 70hp turbo 3cyl that i need some guidance builidng a surface jet drive with if such a thing exists. Or a prop surface drive may be cool. I want it to mount more mid boat for better balance tho.
Cool beans. My boat is motorless ATM. Looking for a way to build my own. Outboard prices have become redonkulous. Good luck with your build. I'll be watching to see what you come up with. I've got some ideas of my own, but will watch to see if you maybe got some better ones.
Quack Lanyards Warner Electric is the OEM clutch provider. They make a version you can bolt on a sheave/belt like Mud buddy or couple to a shaft like a PD
@@tommccormick3890 I have looked all over and cant find an electric clutch that has a pulley for ribbed belts. Am I blind or just not looking for the right thing? Help me out please Tom!
I would think gear ratio would be same gear top and bottom cause it's already running direct from the engine. You could go bigger on the bottom gear if wanted to try gaining more speed.
Lmaooo I’m here 2 years later 😂
We gonna get GTA 6 before part 2!
Yeah would like to see the build and out come
Where is part 2 ???
Did you do a build vid tutorial? Curiosity for a 12 foot jonboat for beaver trapping
Don’t use chain, chain doesn’t give if you hit stumps. Use a cog belt bc if you were to hit a stump you wouldn’t chance tearing everything up. For your trim you could always mount a small 4 wheeler winch and use it as your trim or just use all thread with a slanted piece of the transom and it’ll trim it up or down. If you could get a shaft made go hex way better then just a regular threaded shaft. And you’d have more options on props. 2 blades are good props but 3 blades cut down on vibration.
Did you ever build your surface drive? I'm curious how it turned out .I'm thinking about building one myself but I'm curious how well it will do for comercial catfishing.....I had a guy on here tell me a way to build one with reverse ...,check out his surface drive it's here on you tube under DIY surface drive for 250 bucks ....,.he doesn't have reverse but he is the guy that explained to me how to build one...When you look at his video you'll see he used a single belt...I reccomend building just like he did except instead of the belt use a double roller number 35 chain and some sprockets...I think it will hold up better that way.....Check him out it's not a bad build at all ...the reverse ideal he gave me is pretty slick and it's cheap ....if your interested in it let me know and I can explain by pH or give you an email address ....I think there is a market for a surface drive built strong but cheaper than some I see....if I had ten grand to spend I just don't see ten grand in a surface drive ...some are built better and more complicated but that also means when you break it more money ....what's your take on one of these out drives for catfishing with barrel nets? I broke starter mounts on my 35 hp Mercury witch junked a otherwise good motor so I'm tierd of old outboards and can't afford a new one
Any updates on this project?
It’s been a month since you posted the video so you’re probably flooded with opinions. If so, good luck.
If not, You’re asking several questions that are critical to the success of your build. Not sure what the best way is to get in touch but I’ll check in
Your my new best instagram friend... tell me everything!
Next, Build needs to be an Electric Surface Drive
A lot of good questions. Hope you get good answers.
Thanks Dale, already getting some good info.
Get you the juggernaut torque converter from go power sports it’s meant to take a lot of abuse and is very flexible while mounting it will give you great torque while starting out but won’t hurt your top speed since it has a 10% over drive
Awesome tip, thank you. We will look into that and see what we come up with.
I was thinking the same here . I don't know if getting it wet will hurt it .
you gotta think the new gator tail XD pro is made of aluminum, so you should be fine with thick aluminum
Did not know that! Very good to know!
Ive been trying to blueprints so can build one out of stainless. 90% of my fishing and hunting is in saltwater and no one makes a stainless kit i know it'll be expensive but it would last so much longer.
Thats a great point I never considered people that fish in salt water. You could do steel and have it all cerakote, that stuff is salt resistant.
Stainless is expensive but it will last for many years
I'm by no means an expert, but in my expert opinion I would say steel would be the better option for the pulley box assembly. If you are running shallow or running through the swamp, it will likely take some abuse from the impact of logs, ECT. The steel will hopefully bend before it breaks. #2 length of the prop shaft will be easier to figure out once you know the height of the pulley box. You'll want 6" or so past the angled support coming of the back of the motor( support would ideally be near 45°).
Good points on the steel, I think we will go with steel for sure. Also good advice on the 45 degree support!
Awesome advice, thanks for sharing. We will be getting to work on this soon.
I’m ready to help! I’ve been watching you’re channels and have thought the same about that question… can you do it yourself? I’ve recently ordered a predator 670, performance 670 upgrades, and a mud skipper lower surface drive unit. So I know I’ll be modifying and “sending it” real soon! I have a welding and engineering background so for one question; aluminum will be good on the housing. Since you won’t be casting it since likely you can’t and won’t want too (lol), make sure the welds are sound sir on your fabricated housing unit. In all test, test and repeat for the most part that’s why I took the “easier” road. :)
Sounds like that is what I am going to have to do, try it, test, modify and make it work!
Awesome thanks for the info.
I built a turbo diesel surface drive all out of 1/4 aluminum and it’s plenty strong. I actually think 1/4 aluminum everywhere is over kill and I should have went thinner in some places to save weight.
For the bearings I just use a brass flange bearing at the prop and a pillow block at the back of the housing to handle the thrust. All in all, it works a hell of a lot better than I thought it would considering how heavy the diesel is but I’m still experimenting with ratios and prop sizes
That is awesome that you got it working. If you don't mind helping me out, could you send me some pictures on instagram or facebook of your build and any details you care to share, it would be greatly appreciated.
@@SendItJonBoats sure I send some pictures and what ever info you need just ask. I used what I had laying around so it’s not pretty or ideal and there’s a lot of area for improvement and weight saving but it works great. I have a few videos on RUclips of me running it and testing it
Pictures and video links would be awesome. Send it over to Chris on instagram or facebook @senditjonboats
You are asking us how to do it???????!!!!! We watch RUclips to learn things 😊
LOL, we are just asking for ideas. Chris can figure it out but wants the viewers to have some input.
Hi bro can you send me measurements on each part I'm trying to build one please
We haven't built it yet, but when we do we will go over all the measurements. Stay tuned.
What ever happened to this projct?
I vote for an inboard motor build with a cv axle on the outside of transom for up down side to side movement ,,or a ujoint may work as well
Come out say six inches from bottom of boat ,mayb a 4 foot shaft starting out,,
Kind of a mud boat style but a through transom style like the shark boats but on a smaller scale
cool I want to try that
That will be really cool, I think Chris is working on an idea to build something similar to what you are describing.
Do you have it built I need ideas
I've been wanting to try making a short tail for my boat too. Biggest thoughts is if you mount the tail to a housing is the bearings already sealed from water? I would think getting water and sand in tail would cause issues in the lower end
That is something I did not consider... I guess I need to look into gaskets or something to keep water out.
They make sealed bearings you can get at a bearing house or auto parts store. You have to have a good sealing belt cover. I know on go devil surface drives you can just use silicone to keep water out of your belt housing.
Great info, thank you.
Get’et done
I've looked into this myself I think racing kart chainsaws sprockets would work well I also think racing kart belts will work and your housing can be built at a length you could test and shorten or make longer. It's also very simple to change gear rations per kart racing but the correct hearing to me depends on prop size and pitch if using your straight drive prop I'd say you want same top and bottom gear since it turns on a straight drive the same speed as motor.....with kart engine parts I can build a smaller 13 hp to produce more hp than the stock 22....I suggest looking at race kart parts for all different reasons bc you hv alot of options there and I suggest sealing the housing to protect the bearings or use a down shaft motor and modify a mercury lower unit
Awesome thanks for the info
Great info, thanks for that. We are working on it.
I must admit I do miss your "send it" intro
LOL. Got to have some unicorn!
LOL
I have a 70hp turbo 3cyl that i need some guidance builidng a surface jet drive with if such a thing exists. Or a prop surface drive may be cool. I want it to mount more mid boat for better balance tho.
Never messed with a jet drive, so I will not be much help on that
Where are you from?
Covington GA
We are now in Oxford GA
I’ve seen people put doorbell drives, and the Y circumstance where you have two cheaper belts just to pulleys put together
Hmm thats not a bad idea at all.
Looking forward to watching the build
Should be a lot fun.
Looking forward to getting started on it at somepoint soon
Did you finish? Would love to see
Any progress with this idea yet?
Yup, just bought a harley motor for the build. Working on it now.
Cool beans. My boat is motorless ATM. Looking for a way to build my own. Outboard prices have become redonkulous. Good luck with your build. I'll be watching to see what you come up with. I've got some ideas of my own, but will watch to see if you maybe got some better ones.
We are still working on the idea and trying to find parts to do it at a reasonable price.
Go look at Thailand longtail boats
We plan to
How much for a spare mount? I’m gonna build one too but don’t want to buy the whole kit to get one
I have no clue, have to get one on marketplace used I guess
🙄So? Do we have edition on Surface Drive? I need edition 😎
Working on it
Bring it on!!!!!
Your my hero.
Send It Jon Boats you have low standards..... we should get along great!
I have had a LT and Short tail of a couple brands. I can help! I worked for the company that sells them all the clutches.
Awesome thank you!
Hey Tom what kind of clutches did you use? I have a homemade surface drive and would love a clutch setup
Quack Lanyards Warner Electric is the OEM clutch provider. They make a version you can bolt on a sheave/belt like Mud buddy or couple to a shaft like a PD
@@tommccormick3890 I have looked all over and cant find an electric clutch that has a pulley for ribbed belts. Am I blind or just not looking for the right thing? Help me out please Tom!
Awesome thank you
I would think gear ratio would be same gear top and bottom cause it's already running direct from the engine. You could go bigger on the bottom gear if wanted to try gaining more speed.
A larger sheave/gear will add/crate TQ by lowering the speed of the prop. (Top or bottom same effect)
I would like to go bigger on the bottom if possible and see what happens.
Has anybody built one and have a good video on it
Coming soon
@@TBNationOutdoors like soon soon lol
Don't do it
Why not?
Okay... yeah why not?
I'm really looking forward to seeing your result!
Me too! hopefully soon!