I agree with your procedure for clearing with four coat applications , before you cut/block the clear flat! Too often guys follow this procedure but aren’t checking the material data sheet to see what percentage of solids their cheap/inexpensive clear coat has! Some cheaper clears make reference to being high solids, but in reality are not so! Using a high quality (40 + %) clear coat is an absolute must to get proper film buildup to enable it to be cut flat and straight! You can’t get proper build with cheap bargain basement Clear coats! I’m sure you probably stress that point at your live classes! Excellent channel, always very informative viewing 👍
I'm interested in the gun filter with cartriges that you breifly touched on. Unless I missed it, you didn't mention the name of what the filter is? Possible link where to purchase would be appreciated.
I’m confused there a product called All-U-Need it’s a Spray Polyurethane primer. Pretty much all the body paint men I talked to say u a Epoxy primer 1st. I called ALL U Need they say no absolutely not needed. Any one have a option on this ???
It might be like evercoats super build product. It’s an epoxy/polyester primer made for going over bare metal(15mils I think). Passes 500hr salt spray test. (Although most good standard epoxies are 1000 I think, correct me if I’m wrong) Super build worked great for me. Idk if what you are talking about is similar
@@65buickriv I’m sure it’s pretty much the same. Do you laid it down 1st ??? Do you put anything over it after you use it ? Or just paint right on top of it after sanding.
@@tonywalker2334 I used it first on top of a sandblasted/80 grit da steel truck bed. Blocked then did a bunch of filler work overtop. Used super build again overtop and although I think I could’ve painted right over a 600 grit super build base, I used a epoxy sealer first and started base/clear an hour or two after that. Plenty of people paint over polyester products but for some reason it’s frowned upon. I’ve also done a bunch of filler work FIRST on bare steel with evercoats rage optex filler(best I’ve ever used btw) which is the only filler I know of that has a 500 hr salt spray rating ON ITS OWN. I still agree the way linear blocking tools layers things is the best. He’s spot on with putting certain things(like polyester surfacers)over uncured epoxy and it being soft days later….or even a high build 2k primer..epoxies need to breathe and cure out.
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Another great video, thanks Colten.
For new viewers, this chap's bodywork is 1000% great.
Cheers
I agree with your procedure for clearing with four coat applications , before you cut/block the clear flat! Too often guys follow this procedure but aren’t checking the material data sheet to see what percentage of solids their cheap/inexpensive clear coat has! Some cheaper clears make reference to being high solids, but in reality are not so! Using a high quality (40 + %) clear coat is an absolute must to get proper film buildup to enable it to be cut flat and straight! You can’t get proper build with cheap bargain basement Clear coats! I’m sure you probably stress that point at your live classes! Excellent channel, always very informative viewing 👍
Thanks once again for sharing your knowledge with us.
Appreciate your content man... Lots of questions I've had lingering get answered by watching these.
I'm interested in the gun filter with cartriges that you breifly touched on. Unless I missed it, you didn't mention the name of what the filter is? Possible link where to purchase would be appreciated.
Does your instruction on 2K Urethane over Epoxy with a couple hours flash-off also count when using 2K Acryll?
Thank you and love your blocks!
Great info. 👍🏻 👌👌
I’m confused there a product called All-U-Need it’s a Spray Polyurethane primer. Pretty much all the body paint men I talked to say u a Epoxy primer 1st. I called ALL U Need they say no absolutely not needed. Any one have a option on this ???
It might be like evercoats super build product. It’s an epoxy/polyester primer made for going over bare metal(15mils I think). Passes 500hr salt spray test. (Although most good standard epoxies are 1000 I think, correct me if I’m wrong)
Super build worked great for me. Idk if what you are talking about is similar
@@65buickriv I’m sure it’s pretty much the same. Do you laid it down 1st ??? Do you put anything over it after you use it ? Or just paint right on top of it after sanding.
@@tonywalker2334 I used it first on top of a sandblasted/80 grit da steel truck bed. Blocked then did a bunch of filler work overtop. Used super build again overtop and although I think I could’ve painted right over a 600 grit super build base, I used a epoxy sealer first and started base/clear an hour or two after that. Plenty of people paint over polyester products but for some reason it’s frowned upon.
I’ve also done a bunch of filler work FIRST on bare steel with evercoats rage optex filler(best I’ve ever used btw) which is the only filler I know of that has a 500 hr salt spray rating ON ITS OWN. I still agree the way linear blocking tools layers things is the best. He’s spot on with putting certain things(like polyester surfacers)over uncured epoxy and it being soft days later….or even a high build 2k primer..epoxies need to breathe and cure out.
Nothing in stock so none of this matters. Looks like Im shopping elsewhere.
Come on, man!