The longer I own my 7.3 the more I realize that for slow diagnostics it's either throw a bunch of parts at it or for quick diagnostics get a scan tool that has a graph on it like yours. It might cost a few bucks but in the long run will save the savy back yard mechanic a lot of time and money in fixing the 7.3 and other vehicles. Ironically unless it's a really deep problem or intermittent most of the time the savy mechanic whose familiar with the 7.3 can diagnose and fix it just by listening to it and doing some tests with a meter. Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy your videos. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Finally, real technical video without all the music and opinion. . It is nice to see information that is accurate . I am working on a 7.3 with over 400k . Its mine and has been taken care of . Already replaced the lift pump , filter, drain o rings and return lines. I think this is going to be my solution. I drove it to where it sits , and never could get it started again. It was for the better . I broke down in my travels and the repair facility that replaced the high pressure lines broke the air box, and caused a lot of damage to filter housing and surrounding parts. . It is disappointing to know that some parts changers have no respect for people who are just old mechanics and have to depend on others to get the job done. Thanks for the video. My scanner was stolen , But I have it down to the IPR or the cam sensor.
I want to say this. As a Norwegian bound to drive vehicles from before 2008 (when Ford Norge stopped US import of SD serie due to import taxes - a new F serie with full spec would be $200.000,.-today) we are bound to drive old vehicles, import the parts and turn wrenches ouerselves. Due to this and other factors - I have to have my car going for at least another 13 years - praying my then 32 year old car will fight to the end. I'm not alone - as there are plp that like and have greate use of vehicles like Super Duty's and Excursion and most of us use greate videos like this to keep our older vehicles going. There is a bunch of plp that does not have the finances nor the ability to purchase newer cars - thank you for not just post content in regards of newer vehicles and problems/solutions related to them. Helge
I remember when the first 7.3 Powerstrokes came out. We had 2 new tow trucks and they would run like crap and sounded like that one. The Ford dealer was scratching their heads. I was talking to a tech in an International shop and he said they had an anti foaming additive they added to the oil to cure the problem in their trucks. I started to pour it in with the engine running and before it was all in the idle smoothed out and the knocking went away. A few days after the dealer said there was a TSB to use only use a certain Motorcraft oil in them. All the oil brands caught up quickly with more anti foam additives..
HEUI's cousin is a butter churn. Caterpillar and Shell (Rotella) worked together on that problem. When they came out that was about the only oil that would work.
Love 7.3 L So easy to work on compared to newer diesels. Thanks for the great video. I would love to see some videos on when u have white smoke and what the factors could be and how to diagnose them
Thanks for the information I'm a diesel truck mechanic and have a 5.9 Cummins 93 model but I'm thinking of getting a king ranch 250 older model 06 or 08 so you're part of my schooling in giving myself you explain everything just like I do to new mechanics I have tried to put videos on u tube my self but did not go well buy working on it anyway I'll keep watching thanks again this is Juan from San Antonio TX
Thanks very much for sharing this diagnosis and fix. I'm getting the exact same symptoms with my early 99 7.3 but worse (with no pcm trouble codes just using Torque) to the point where it just stutters like it wants to start and doesn't idle. The only difference with the truck you showed here is that, while rolling with the starter, my IPR duty cycle is hitting 65% (and pressure to 3000+ within a few seconds) so I'm suspecting the IPR valve itself is sticking or a fuel problem. This video helps me narrow it down. Thanks again!
@@omartorres6889 It helped a bit but did not totally fix the problem. The ipr I had on was definitely not sensing the correct pressure but at the same time (quite a coincidence..), some of my injectors came loose and scrubbed/smashed their o-rings.. I decided to bite the bullet, change all injectors (old ones had over 200k miles on them anyways) as well as put on a Riffraff fuel xover removing the restrictors that the idiotic Ford engineers put on (fuel bowl and the ones feeding each fuel rail) which starves the injectors.. I also put a Riffraff billet compressor wheel (I'm now seeing 15lbs above atmos/barometer vs 8lbs with the original garrett wheel) and now it's running like a top and puts out alot more power. I was surprised at the increase in torque just with these mods without chipping.. Thanks for asking.
Thank you. tons of good info. Just bought a 97 F350 7.3L (188,000 miles) yesterday. was on a flat bed tow truck after 25 miles. bought it running on rear tank. Filled both tanks, switched to front, 10.3 miles later it stalled out. Cleaned mud out of the bowl, tried to clean filter (on side of highway), had fuel filling the bowl but no start. I'm just looking into the culprit.. Thanks for a great vid.
An '02 with low miles being referred to as 'an old 7.3?" I don't think so! That's rather why we have 7.3 is the longevity. I'd love to get my hands on that! Mine is running 300k miles and I figure it just got broken in.
Greetings ARod I have a 2000 (Aug 1999) F-250 7.3 L. Thank you for the video. Expensive part. With the employee discount, it was over $250. I did pretty much what you did. Thanks for the details about how it works. Much appreciated.
thanks for the video! really helped me out. i watched a couple other videos on this IPR replacement as well and you can also use a 1 3/32 socket to knock the IPR loose which you can purchase from Harbor Freight in a Shower Valve Socket Wrench Kit... attached an adjustable wrench to it and then gave it a smack with a hammer since my IPR was in there pretty tight as well... not the funnest job to do but beats paying a dealership. thanks again!
I wish i would have seen this a while back(2019) i know it was not out. My buddy's 1999 F250 7.3 same problem but i didn't know enough about Diesels. Been working on cars on the side since i was 15, 63 now Thanks
This was just what I needed On my e350 van I could not find the improved valve. Quite buried under fire wall. A hard reach but thanks to your video I found it.
My 7.3 2002 fuel mileage started dropping into the 7-8 mpg range city driving. Bought a new IPR but couldn’t get the old one out, working on that lol. Tested the old coil and was getting 33.9 ohms, tested the new one and was getting 9.3 ohms. Threw the new coil on the old IPR with 229k miles on it. Reconnected the wiring connections. On start up engine knock was gone when cold and idle was Super smooth. HUGE difference. I do have oil in the valley so I’m thinking the seals on the IPR are failing so full replacement as soon as I get the IPR socket I need.
I had a no start 7.3 i diagnosed to failed ipr. Replaced and first time i let off throttle on road test it stalled again. Had it towed to shop and found new ipr was full of metal flakes. Called customer to inform thinking it was failing bearings and found out they put in 2 cans of engine restore. Never put engine restore in anything except a garbage bin.
If the ipr valve is going can it also cause the truck to completely shut off when it’s hot than once cool will start. After some research I can only guess that the ipr is failing and losing all fuel to the injectors
My second reply here, Still trying to chase a problem down, now armed with OBO11 scanner. After install new IPR ran a lot better, but still was giving me problems, now is back to where it was, I may have made the mistake of buying a cheap IPR off Amazon, not sure where it was made but it did seem to have a finger print and smelled like soy sauce? So I have purchased a genuine 100% Motortcraft,, twice the cost and I'm sure it's probably not made in the good old USA, but I have read a few threads that it's best to buy OEM. I've been doing to shot gun approach try to avoid the stealership ( sorry ). I took it in for free scan at my local dealer. I thought free I should at least have the oil change, as I usually do it myself. Got the truck back same problem. The paper work indicated they test drove didn't notice any problems other than air filter was dirty, well I had just cleaned and oiled it, it's an S&B. How could a mechanic not notice a truck that shifts into 4th gear starts shaking, making loud cackling sounds, and the boost drop to zero, along with surging idle? So back to square one, will try the new IPR. If any one is still interested in my story. I have done buzz test, all sound the same, taken valve covers off, checked all wiring VIA OVM, put new glow plugs in as it would not cold start, now does, put a wicked wheel 11 in the turbo, no improvement over stock and same problem, changed every sensor that coded when I got the truck. Throws no codes. Fuel pressure 50 idle and WOT, Hpop 600 at idle 2900 plus at WOT, within it's duty cycle %, new fuel filter. Leak tested the turbo system, found a couple of small leaks at boots. Checked all wiring on harnesses. No smoke, no oil burn or leaks at all. If IPC doesn't help, then shot gun it again with IDM, PCM. Oh also checked vacuum lines. I make 23lbs of boost if it's WOT. Could I have a EBVP valve stuck closed or partially? Will check that also as the boost drops off so severally.
I believe the IPR valve is going to be my problem. I have a 02 7.3. I put in a new IPC valve and checked on my crank position sensor.. Seems to be working.... I put new glow plugs in new glow plug relay everything's turning on the truck acts like it's trying to start but doesn't..... It was hard starting when not plugged in.. When I plug it in it would start fine and have a little Miss till it cleared up.. Now it's plugged in does not want to start ...
recently had one kick my ass for a little bit. complaint dies intermittently can let it sit for a while and it fires up and may not do it for a few days, no codes of course. i get it look at the cps see its been in there for a long time replace it test drive 50 miles no issues at all. customer shows up to get his truck drives home makes it 2 miles dies out no restart like maybe a high pressure oil leak, but while i did the test drive i watched duty cylcle on ipr and it never went above 35% so i know no leaks, well when it was dead on the road the ipr % was 65 and making 100 psi hp oil. i swap it out with a known good one good to go until new on came in. i guess the spool inside or the coil was at fault.
Thanks for the video....it’s interesting to look back at a 7.3. Also, I can confidently say Arod and Powerstroke are both American....China they are not.
Awesome Video, I am having the same issues. Please Please Please tell me what are the specs of your OBD 2 Reader. I want to get exactly the setup you have going on here!
Hi , I have a 7.3 excursion. No start low icp. It will start on 4 cylinders. That's w pass side deadheaded. I've done inj orings. Icp,ipr valves. Thinking I had a bad poopet vavle I replaced ps injectors. Still no start low icp. No codes until 20 seconds into cranking. Can you offer any advise?
Bought an 03 7.3 long bed crew RWD with 155k on it for 7k last year... Seems to run great for the first 5k I put on it. did I get a good deal? So far have changed the fuel Filter and oil and filter. Used a 9691 filter to hopefully keep the oil extra clean. Bought a drain valve to make oil changes super easy and not have an excuse to put them off. Watching all the videos I can find on maintaining it and your channel has lots of helpful stuff. Thank you! Only issues I’ve had so far are a stuck rear caliper (good excuse to pump out the reservoir and vaccum bleed fresh clean fluid through everything but the ABS unit. Used about 4 quarts of DOT 4 fluid to “wash it all through” Other issue I am dealing with is a “rough bearing” noise that seems to be from the rear end, and needing new clutch packs, or more friction modifier in the diff. Hoping it is a wheel/hub bearing in the diff, but thanks to videos like yours, I am confident I can tackle it all myself, with a few special tools. Thanks for all you do for the education of powestroke owners and the people who work on them!
Thanks for stopping h and being positive on my channel, i really appreciate it. I wld check your driveshaft center bearing...have had lots of them growl like a bad bearing. Yes seems like a good deal to me
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod - thanks! Every video I saw on the center drive line bearing showed what they sound like when WAY farther gone than this one is... with the drive shaft flopping around and clunking horribly. After the brake work (and tightening the front wheel bearing spindle nuts to the 18in lb spec, which reduced some seemingly excessive play in them) I gave it a quick test on jack stands, but didn’t have time to get underneath and use a “mechanic’s stethoscope” to localize the rear end noise source. Will check that center hangar bearing first, as I would love for it to be that, and not a wheel bearing. Do you have any videos on the ford/sterling 10.25/10.5 clutch pack replacement or other differential service procedures? Found enough to confidently do wheel bearings in the rear hubs of that turns out to be the source of my noise. One other Q... my diff is hard to turn, and the wheel on the other side travels in the opposite direction... some videos I have seen indicated the LSD’s opposite wheel should turn the same direction, and didn’t say anything about it being hard to turn/taking significant effort. Is this an indication of failed clutch packs? It doesn’t feel “rough” per say... just tough to turn, even holding the wheel.
You're videos are great and really helpful. I just bought a 01 f250 7.3 and going through and replacing some of the problem areas and came across a bare braided wire in the main engine harness that runs between the valve covers, going towards the driver's side before the injector flow plug connector the braided wire just stops and has no where to go? Just wondering if this is supposed to be a ground and if so where does it supposed to ground to? Any response is greatly appreciated.
I have a 2001 7.3 with 150k , it's been a great truck . Only issue I've had with the engine is a loose plug under the L valve cover. Recently it threw a p1211 code while pulling my camper. I use a bully dog just for gauges. It has a 6 position chip which works great. I got just a hesitation in power . I shut it off and restarted and no eng light . I've drove it a hundred miles since with no more issue. The truck is very well maintained it also has the hutch mod. and a spin on filter before the elec fuel pump. This is a rust free truck so I never plan on getting rid of it. Any suggestions , on the 1 time issue . Thanks
When my IPR started failing the truck would start and run fine when cold or hot, but if I parked for 30 minutes to an hour it wouldn't start again until it cooled off for a couple of hours.
Great video.. I have a question.. I removed my fuel bowl and HPOP due to oil leak , replaced all seals and reinstalled. She took about 30 seconds of cranking to fire off on the initial firing, I let her run for about a half hour while cleaning up. But now when I shut her down and let her sit she take around 10 to 20 revolutions to fire back up.. once running and I shut her of and then immediately fire back up she fires right away. But if I let her sit, shes back to 10 to 20 cranks... any thoughts .. thanks Mike 2002 7.3 Ford F350
I think I might have the same problem on my 2000 f450.. do I need to get the part from the dealer… or anything from Autozone would work?? I heard is best to use them from the dealer!!
Nice upload, having that dang computer has to be helpful, other then the tried and true swap it till it runs w/o knocking, or what ever other symptom may be present, but now I know if I hear knockin it could be IPR or any of the other zillion sensors! Im refreshing myself on the PSD as I just bought another in a 96 F350 4x4 box truck.. Glad I still have my 7.3 IDI though.
Hardly any miles on the clock, and for a 7.3 yet, guys would be tripping all over themselves for a low mile 7.3. Sounds a lot better now after the IPR swap, and yeah not much for PID's but some is better than none. Looks like you got this one solved and in the bag nice work as usual man, keep them videos coming from that secret location...lol
I have a 7.3 idles fine loosing power stall out. Sets for a few minutes starts right back up have a code p1211 had all 8 injectors replaced new fuel pump cleaned out the 2 screens in tank only code coming back is the p1211 is it the icp solenoid
My 02 7.3 shut off driving down the interstate at 80mph with zero warning. I made it to the shoulder and it would crank strong but not even try to start. Got a tow home and when I pulled off the trailer it started right up. I suspect the IPR valve and that is how I found you. I have had another problem that I have no idea on. For the last 2-3 years I get a very loud sucking sound when pulling a trailer uphill and now I get it even without a trailer. It goes away when I down shift and the rpms come back up. It is incredibly disappointing to have a 7.3 but feel like I am towing with an old v8
I have a '99 Super Duty with a 7.3 and my oil pressure gauge on the dash always reads a little low. Do you think I have a bad IPR too? I kept adding oil but the gauge never read higher. I stopped after adding 7 quarts because it got hard to start and kept smoking when I revved it. Are the IPR valves you have in China better than the ones in the US?
I did change my IPR valve N still no start is it because I did not put oil back in the Resavor that was my Question ?????? please let me know Thanks John
Great video my brother has 2003 7.3 we changed CPS and 2 sensors egr and icp behind the alternator the problem is rough idle and it dies we cleaned the fuel tank and filters could it be this sensor ipr that's is bad if there's any way to check with a olms meter thankyou
Got a 2001 f 350 7.3 an changed the IPC 3 times has 368000 miles an runs perfect. All it ever done since new is pull race car trailers everywhere in the usa
What goes bad on the IPR? Is it just the solenoid reason I ask is I don’t have a long enough socket and was wondering if just changing the solenoid would be okay?
Love the video I have ordered a IPR and am going to put it on as soon as I get it . I have a starting problem that just started . It won't start my son told me to shoot some starting fluid in the air intake and it cranked and ran great. Let it run for about 10 mins ,cut it off and restarted it. I hope that fixes it. Have you ran into anything like this l only have 180000 miles on it.
Thanks for a great vid! I'm on my third 7.3, currently 2000 F250 with 230K miles. I have been trying to run down a problem with rough idle, I did have three codes, all sensors, all clean now. After replacing glow plugs because of hard cold start, inspecting wiring harness, putting her all back together I have a p1316 and p0603 code. Another problem to deal with. But the bad idle and loud engine might just be that IPR, or hpop. Will investigate further and thanks again.
I'm debating on buying a 2000-2001 7.3 powerstroke diesel E350 with 227,000 miles for $1,000 and was part of a furniture installation/moving business that was said to be fleet maintained for awhile then taken over by the business personnel to keep up with it. It has been parked since May 2019 and it doesn't show a wait to start (glow plug light) and supposedly it would run then cut out.. but if the glow plug light doesn't illuminate now how would it run prior... I could use some pointers to help me figure out this issue. I've heard about all of the parts with the pcm, ipr etc.. it seems like a bit much for my first 7.3 psd diesel to take on but I know these are legendary engines and would like to pursue it if it's not too much work that it'll cost more than what it's worth. Please help thanks
any vids on a 2001 f450 7.3,,,, crank - no start ? ,,,new hp oil lines and power steering pump installed a week ago ,,,,,,ran with a little burp on the way back from the shop to home ,,,,parked for a week ,,,now crank no start,,,,,,,,installed 2 brand new batteries and still no start ? any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated ,,,thank you
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod good fuel pressure ..getting a code of po 1670 lack of communication from PCM to ficm ...I'm going to light test the glow relays ? or you have any suggestions ?
I have a 2000 F350. When it is cold it has a miss, hesitation, or bucking(not sure what you would call it) at about 1600-2000 rpm. When it gets good and warm seems to go away. Have replaced cps, fuel filter. Any ideas? Also when cold I hear like a ticking sound when driving...seems to come from the drivers side (not positive though) and goes away once warm.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ya no dought nunezluis1991@gmail.com I had a customer that got his turbo replaced but I'm not sure if they set the rod lenth right while applying vacuum to the diaphragm. The procedure on All data is a little confusing.
How possible is an oil leak from the IPR? Mines still leaking oil after replacing the high pressure oil lines and fittings, the pedestal O rings and rebuilding the turbo. The oil looks to be coming from the IPR now though.
UPDATE: I cleaned it all up and found that one of the fittings I had replaced on the HPOP had backed out a bit making it loose and leaking. I had cleaned it really well and replaced all the fittings with the lines to the heads. I used Locktite on them as well so I'm not sure why it happened on that fitting but it is solved now. I also decided on switching out the hoses and fittings to JIC instead. Now a high pressure line will cost a lot less and have a higher burst rating.
Great video thank you , also have a electrical question to see if you could help guide me , 2000 7.3 super duty 6spd 4x4 manual hubs now , my 4x4 dash lights doesn’t illuminate so I checked all fuses and relays under dash and hood , on the relay block under hood for shift motor I can jump the wires and it engages 4x4 but still no dash light and also tested with my neighbors same model truck only difference his is auto trans. I swapped 4x4 shift on fly switch and it operates his as it should and lights illuminate in his . My question is does it sound like a GEM module behind fuse block . I also traced all the wires from shift motor to relay block and they have continuity , also from switch to gem and they they have continuity . I just don’t know if I’m missing another test I should try or even if I could and how to test GEM
ARod, I have a 2000 F350 with the 7.3L. Haven't had to do the IPR yet, but did the ICP. I'm curious: as a professional at this stuff, would you say that the 7.3L parts are becoming harder to come by? To me it seems not, but I know a guy who has a 6.0 who swears up-n-down that they are and that I should "upgrade" to a 6.0. Not something I'm that interested in really, I like my 7.3L. And hell the 6.0 isn't that much newer. Anyway, any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
I have an international that's basically running the same way that ford is I have no codes the only code that I have is for a brake pedal sensor it's knocking only on the left side and it sounds like a fuel knock I have been trying to solve this issue for a while cannot find anything other than this information that I've seen from you do you have any other suggestions that may help thanks in advance
I have a 01 7.3 6speed. I was wondering your opinion on what to replace for a rough idle you could call it. Anytime I get up past 1100 rpms and let's say push the clutch in it only drops down to 1100rpm and has a shitty sound and idle. Or kick it out of gear coming to a stop light. Then eventually "calms" down and idle at around 750.
I replaced the ICP, did a buzz test on the injectors all came back good. I thought maybe bad injector or stuck injector but not oil in my fuel filter or anything.
Good evening, I came across your video and I am having an issue with my 02 F350 7.3. I have changed my ipr, icp, cps, fp, and fuel filter and I still can not get the truck to run properly. It takes forever to start and when it does it only runs for about 20-30 seconds. I have connected the fuel pump directly into a 5 gal container to make sure the pick up in the tank is not clogged. Still have the same issue. Any advice would be great.
Having the same issue with mu 97 7.3. Just replaced the CPS and , that wasn't it. I think it's the IPR after watching your video. Truck sounded the same but won't start now. It wants to start but won't.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Yes sir I’m new to the 7.3 I love my truck it started running rough when I would be at a stop light I would lightly hit the Excelerator she would die and after sitting over night she would give me trouble starting I don’t have any engine lights and I bought a cheap code reader from harbor freight and it’s not showing any codes
Diesels have gone from being very reliable to unreliable with all this electronic crap. A trip to the dealer or a repair shop is $300 -$3000. So I bought the software. While I consider the 7.3 the best pickup engine I've had, I wish it was a Detroit with mechanical injectors and no electronics, no electrical needs except for the starter. Just got towed home when the cam position sensor quit. Had a spare, but not with me. Taking a local trip in a modern diesel truck is like leaving in a ship for an around the world cruise, packed full of engine spares.
when the cam position sensor goes, you can just unplug it and the trucks computer PCM will run the sensor on default so you can limp it home until you replace the sensor
I have a 2002 7.3 128k miles dies out once in a while at idle or driving if you are not on the throttle. Crank & no start after that unless you let it sit. Ipr symptoms?
@Arod at 3v05 when you fire it up, have you started it and tried hitting the accelerator at all when its idling rough like that? I have an e99 all stock (to my knowledge) and I have damn near the same idle situation however it's not knockin hard like that. I've replaced the icp sensor with an oem motorcraft one. Fresh oil and filter. New oem fuel filter. I'm chasing an issue. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm reading as much as possible and trying to get well informed as I attempt to diagnose and fix. If you have any advice please help. I had an 01 with 380k on it before and no issues. This e99 only has 180k on it but I'm assuming it's been somewhat abused in a commercial fleet that didnt know how to maintain or operate these old dinosaurs properly. Thanks in advance.
Forgot to add to the story.. it will run rough like that until I run her a bit harder goin thru the gears and really gettin the turbo to spool up. Almost seems like it has a clog or some kinda restriction goin on and then all the sudden let's loose.
Sounds like you need injectors. When they are cold they stick. As engine oil temp goes up the power starts to come back. Not maintaining the oil will make your concern happen
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod if I get it to a shop and have them run the key on engine off injector test would that be sufficient enough evidence to determine that for sure? I'm really hoping that's not the case but really wouldn't suprise me. I bought the truck cause its rust free. The longer I have it the more I find that needs fixed.. it sucks bein willing to try and fix one of these fuckers but itll be worth the money if my wife dont kill me first haha
No that wont, that just tests the electrical portion. The issue is with the mechnical side, the portion that has oil running thru it. U need 2 pull all 8 and have them bench tested!
!['01 POWERstroke - No START [IPR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UcZ2mngiIRI/mqdefault.jpg)
The longer I own my 7.3 the more I realize that for slow diagnostics it's either throw a bunch of parts at it or for quick diagnostics get a scan tool that has a graph on it like yours. It might cost a few bucks but in the long run will save the savy back yard mechanic a lot of time and money in fixing the 7.3 and other vehicles. Ironically unless it's a really deep problem or intermittent most of the time the savy mechanic whose familiar with the 7.3 can diagnose and fix it just by listening to it and doing some tests with a meter. Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy your videos. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Finally, real technical video without all the music and opinion. . It is nice to see information that is accurate . I am working on a 7.3 with over 400k . Its mine and has been taken care of . Already replaced the lift pump , filter, drain o rings and return lines. I think this is going to be my solution. I drove it to where it sits , and never could get it started again. It was for the better . I broke down in my travels and the repair facility that replaced the high pressure lines broke the air box, and caused a lot of damage to filter housing and surrounding parts. . It is disappointing to know that some parts changers have no respect for people who are just old mechanics and have to depend on others to get the job done. Thanks for the video. My scanner was stolen , But I have it down to the IPR or the cam sensor.
Thanks so much for the A1 positive feed back!
I want to say this. As a Norwegian bound to drive vehicles from before 2008 (when Ford Norge stopped US import of SD serie due to import taxes - a new F serie with full spec would be $200.000,.-today) we are bound to drive old vehicles, import the parts and turn wrenches ouerselves. Due to this and other factors - I have to have my car going for at least another 13 years - praying my then 32 year old car will fight to the end. I'm not alone - as there are plp that like and have greate use of vehicles like Super Duty's and Excursion and most of us use greate videos like this to keep our older vehicles going. There is a bunch of plp that does not have the finances nor the ability to purchase newer cars - thank you for not just post content in regards of newer vehicles and problems/solutions related to them.
Helge
Anytime pal!!!!!
I remember when the first 7.3 Powerstrokes came out. We had 2 new tow trucks and they would run like crap and sounded like that one. The Ford dealer was scratching their heads. I was talking to a tech in an International shop and he said they had an anti foaming additive they added to the oil to cure the problem in their trucks.
I started to pour it in with the engine running and before it was all in the idle smoothed out and the knocking went away.
A few days after the dealer said there was a TSB to use only use a certain Motorcraft oil in them. All the oil brands caught up quickly with more anti foam additives..
Nice
HEUI's cousin is a butter churn. Caterpillar and Shell (Rotella) worked together on that problem. When they came out that was about the only oil that would work.
Love 7.3 L So easy to work on compared to newer diesels. Thanks for the great video. I would love to see some videos on when u have white smoke and what the factors could be and how to diagnose them
Thanks for the information I'm a diesel truck mechanic and have a 5.9 Cummins 93 model but I'm thinking of getting a king ranch 250 older model 06 or 08 so you're part of my schooling in giving myself you explain everything just like I do to new mechanics I have tried to put videos on u tube my self but did not go well buy working on it anyway I'll keep watching thanks again this is Juan from San Antonio TX
Thanks pal...!! STAY AWAY FROM 08-10!!!!
Thanks very much for sharing this diagnosis and fix. I'm getting the exact same symptoms with my early 99 7.3 but worse (with no pcm trouble codes just using Torque) to the point where it just stutters like it wants to start and doesn't idle. The only difference with the truck you showed here is that, while rolling with the starter, my IPR duty cycle is hitting 65% (and pressure to 3000+ within a few seconds) so I'm suspecting the IPR valve itself is sticking or a fuel problem. This video helps me narrow it down. Thanks again!
U BET!
Ian Malleua did changing your ipr fix your problem have same problem as you do thanks in advanced
@@omartorres6889 It helped a bit but did not totally fix the problem. The ipr I had on was definitely not sensing the correct pressure but at the same time (quite a coincidence..), some of my injectors came loose and scrubbed/smashed their o-rings.. I decided to bite the bullet, change all injectors (old ones had over 200k miles on them anyways) as well as put on a Riffraff fuel xover removing the restrictors that the idiotic Ford engineers put on (fuel bowl and the ones feeding each fuel rail) which starves the injectors.. I also put a Riffraff billet compressor wheel (I'm now seeing 15lbs above atmos/barometer vs 8lbs with the original garrett wheel) and now it's running like a top and puts out alot more power. I was surprised at the increase in torque just with these mods without chipping.. Thanks for asking.
Thank you. tons of good info. Just bought a 97 F350 7.3L (188,000 miles) yesterday. was on a flat bed tow truck after 25 miles. bought it running on rear tank. Filled both tanks, switched to front, 10.3 miles later it stalled out. Cleaned mud out of the bowl, tried to clean filter (on side of highway), had fuel filling the bowl but no start. I'm just looking into the culprit.. Thanks for a great vid.
Thanks for your kind words, best of luck to ya👍
camshaft position sensor
An '02 with low miles being referred to as 'an old 7.3?" I don't think so! That's rather why we have 7.3 is the longevity. I'd love to get my hands on that! Mine is running 300k miles and I figure it just got broken in.
Ha👍
Greetings ARod
I have a 2000 (Aug 1999) F-250 7.3 L. Thank you for the video. Expensive part. With the employee discount, it was over $250. I did pretty much what you did. Thanks for the details about how it works. Much appreciated.
They sell OEM Motorcraft IPR's on EBAY for 169$, sorry buddy but you kinda got stiffed.
Thanks nice video... i am still running my 2000 7.3. 435k. 9 oil changes 18 oil filters. Oil sampled by independent lab. Never can back out of spec.
I am totally new to diesel. Just purchased a 1998 7.3 that's not running. I am learning and thought your video was great. Thanks for the lesson
98 ?
@@gabriellopez9055
1998 F-350 Van
@@kenjohnson7790 got it thanks
thanks for the video! really helped me out. i watched a couple other videos on this IPR replacement as well and you can also use a 1 3/32 socket to knock the IPR loose which you can purchase from Harbor Freight in a Shower Valve Socket Wrench Kit... attached an adjustable wrench to it and then gave it a smack with a hammer since my IPR was in there pretty tight as well... not the funnest job to do but beats paying a dealership. thanks again!
Thanks pal
Finally a video on the legendary 7.3 . . . Ha ha good video thanks powerstroke tech talk
No prob, glad u came back to visit.
I wish i would have seen this a while back(2019) i know it was not out. My buddy's 1999 F250 7.3 same problem but i didn't know enough about Diesels. Been working on cars on the side since i was 15, 63 now Thanks
Made my day! I was ready (not really) for a rear main seal replacement. Thank You!
THANKS FOR THIS IM A NEW 7.3 OWNER ON "BEER MONEY" WALLET. I LEARNED A CRAP LOAD. THANKS. I JUST FOUND YOUR VIDEOS.
Thanks so much for stoppin by. Check out my channel, I have a lot of great content to watch
This was just what I needed On my e350 van I could not find the improved valve. Quite buried under fire wall. A hard reach but thanks to your video I found it.
Hell yea
Thanks my 02 f250 with the 7.3 was doing the same thing changed it and is working perfect. Good video helped alot
Sweet man thanks so much for watching
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod 7.399 won’t idle
Ok...
mine got same noise on start up will replace i p r this week thank you.
My 7.3 2002 fuel mileage started dropping into the 7-8 mpg range city driving. Bought a new IPR but couldn’t get the old one out, working on that lol. Tested the old coil and was getting 33.9 ohms, tested the new one and was getting 9.3 ohms. Threw the new coil on the old IPR with 229k miles on it. Reconnected the wiring connections. On start up engine knock was gone when cold and idle was Super smooth. HUGE difference. I do have oil in the valley so I’m thinking the seals on the IPR are failing so full replacement as soon as I get the IPR socket I need.
Great video. Could the loose stamped nut on the end of the valve stem potentialy have been a problem?
Yes sirrrrrrrrr my truck I checked it and was lose I tightened and works perfect so I have the new one here just because you never know
There’s a hex nut on top of the oil tank for the hpop you can drain it with a hand pump .
You nailed it for me! I was all over the map as to what the problem was. Thanks so much. Keep it up!
I had a no start 7.3 i diagnosed to failed ipr. Replaced and first time i let off throttle on road test it stalled again. Had it towed to shop and found new ipr was full of metal flakes. Called customer to inform thinking it was failing bearings and found out they put in 2 cans of engine restore. Never put engine restore in anything except a garbage bin.
Ughhh what gooofs
Luv the Happy Gilmore
Excellent video for this newbee 7.3 diesel fan!
If the ipr valve is going can it also cause the truck to completely shut off when it’s hot than once cool will start. After some research I can only guess that the ipr is failing and losing all fuel to the injectors
Si
Sounds like cam sensor.
Oh thank god... until 40 seconds or so I thought I’d selected a video from the Powerstroke Techno Music channel by mistake!
i dreaded having to do that for 8 years. glad i didn't have to change mine out. still a good video
thank you, great video, great refresher.
Check out my new video I just did
I think that my problem with my 7.3. It misfire right before it starts up. When it's cold,. But after it warms up. Starts the way it should,,. Thanks
Yes indeed I am on my way home to the hole. Thanks for posting do more 7 3 and 6 7 vids
My second reply here, Still trying to chase a problem down, now armed with OBO11 scanner. After install new IPR ran a lot better, but still was giving me problems, now is back to where it was, I may have made the mistake of buying a cheap IPR off Amazon, not sure where it was made but it did seem to have a finger print and smelled like soy sauce? So I have purchased a genuine 100% Motortcraft,, twice the cost and I'm sure it's probably not made in the good old USA, but I have read a few threads that it's best to buy OEM. I've been doing to shot gun approach try to avoid the stealership ( sorry ). I took it in for free scan at my local dealer. I thought free I should at least have the oil change, as I usually do it myself. Got the truck back same problem. The paper work indicated they test drove didn't notice any problems other than air filter was dirty, well I had just cleaned and oiled it, it's an S&B. How could a mechanic not notice a truck that shifts into 4th gear starts shaking, making loud cackling sounds, and the boost drop to zero, along with surging idle? So back to square one, will try the new IPR. If any one is still interested in my story. I have done buzz test, all sound the same, taken valve covers off, checked all wiring VIA OVM, put new glow plugs in as it would not cold start, now does, put a wicked wheel 11 in the turbo, no improvement over stock and same problem, changed every sensor that coded when I got the truck. Throws no codes. Fuel pressure 50 idle and WOT, Hpop 600 at idle 2900 plus at WOT, within it's duty cycle %, new fuel filter. Leak tested the turbo system, found a couple of small leaks at boots. Checked all wiring on harnesses. No smoke, no oil burn or leaks at all. If IPC doesn't help, then shot gun it again with IDM, PCM. Oh also checked vacuum lines. I make 23lbs of boost if it's WOT. Could I have a EBVP valve stuck closed or partially? Will check that also as the boost drops off so severally.
thanks for the video.. straightforward. will do mine as soon as it arrives.
Thank you for by & keepin' it 💯, good luck
I believe the IPR valve is going to be my problem. I have a 02 7.3. I put in a new IPC valve and checked on my crank position sensor.. Seems to be working.... I put new glow plugs in new glow plug relay everything's turning on the truck acts like it's trying to start but doesn't..... It was hard starting when not plugged in..
When I plug it in it would start fine and have a little Miss till it cleared up.. Now it's plugged in does not want to start ...
If youd like to help support my channel with a donation we can dive into your concern
🤦♂️ Not my IPR valve! I need injections..😭😭
Amazing... I'm going to change my IPR on my 2000 7.3 ..I'll get back to you.
great video. i appreciate the information. i just hope i can fiquire my 96 stroker out
Was searching and found this. Gotta replace mine. May 2021. Thanks..i was wondering how to do it.
thanks for video. well done
Man! Thanks for this video! Super informative and helpful! Deff going to watch more of your channel
Thanks for watchin, stoppin by & keepin it positive. Much appreciated! See you on Fridays 8:45 pm EST!!😉👌👍👊
Very Informative video thanks ...
recently had one kick my ass for a little bit. complaint dies intermittently can let it sit for a while and it fires up and may not do it for a few days, no codes of course. i get it look at the cps see its been in there for a long time replace it test drive 50 miles no issues at all. customer shows up to get his truck drives home makes it 2 miles dies out no restart like maybe a high pressure oil leak, but while i did the test drive i watched duty cylcle on ipr and it never went above 35% so i know no leaks, well when it was dead on the road the ipr % was 65 and making 100 psi hp oil. i swap it out with a known good one good to go until new on came in. i guess the spool inside or the coil was at fault.
Ive been bit be4 like that too
that video was pretty detailed thank you for sharing and im going to the store to get a 29milli before i start
🤣😅😂👍👍
Thanks for the video....it’s interesting to look back at a 7.3. Also, I can confidently say Arod and Powerstroke are both American....China they are not.
Lol thanks for watchin bud
Brillant! Thats why they pay you!! great vid!
Thanks so much, see ya nxt week 😎
Awesome Video, I am having the same issues. Please Please Please tell me what are the specs of your OBD 2 Reader. I want to get exactly the setup you have going on here!
Email me my man! Look on my channel
Hi , I have a 7.3 excursion. No start low icp. It will start on 4 cylinders. That's w pass side deadheaded. I've done inj orings. Icp,ipr valves. Thinking I had a bad poopet vavle I replaced ps injectors. Still no start low icp. No codes until 20 seconds into cranking. Can you offer any advise?
Whats ur email...?
Its barry$thompson$1204@yahoo.com
Minus the $
Bought an 03 7.3 long bed crew RWD with 155k on it for 7k last year... Seems to run great for the first 5k I put on it. did I get a good deal?
So far have changed the fuel
Filter and oil and filter. Used a 9691 filter to hopefully keep the oil extra clean. Bought a drain valve to make oil changes super easy and not have an excuse to put them off.
Watching all the videos I can find on maintaining it and your channel has lots of helpful stuff. Thank you!
Only issues I’ve had so far are a stuck rear caliper (good excuse to pump out the reservoir and vaccum bleed fresh clean fluid through everything but the ABS unit. Used about 4 quarts of DOT 4 fluid to “wash it all through”
Other issue I am dealing with is a “rough bearing” noise that seems to be from the rear end, and needing new clutch packs, or more friction modifier in the diff.
Hoping it is a wheel/hub bearing in the diff, but thanks to videos like yours, I am confident I can tackle it all myself, with a few special tools.
Thanks for all you do for the education of powestroke owners and the people who work on them!
Thanks for stopping h and being positive on my channel, i really appreciate it. I wld check your driveshaft center bearing...have had lots of them growl like a bad bearing. Yes seems like a good deal to me
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod - thanks! Every video I saw on the center drive line bearing showed what they sound like when WAY farther gone than this one is... with the drive shaft flopping around and clunking horribly.
After the brake work (and tightening the front wheel bearing spindle nuts to the 18in lb spec, which reduced some seemingly excessive play in them) I gave it a quick test on jack stands, but didn’t have time to get underneath and use a “mechanic’s stethoscope” to localize the rear end noise source. Will check that center hangar bearing first, as I would love for it to be that, and not a wheel bearing.
Do you have any videos on the ford/sterling 10.25/10.5 clutch pack replacement or other differential service procedures?
Found enough to confidently do wheel bearings in the rear hubs of that turns out to be the source of my noise.
One other Q... my diff is hard to turn, and the wheel on the other side travels in the opposite direction... some videos I have seen indicated the LSD’s opposite wheel should turn the same direction, and didn’t say anything about it being hard to turn/taking significant effort.
Is this an indication of failed clutch packs?
It doesn’t feel “rough” per say... just tough to turn, even holding the wheel.
You're videos are great and really helpful. I just bought a 01 f250 7.3 and going through and replacing some of the problem areas and came across a bare braided wire in the main engine harness that runs between the valve covers, going towards the driver's side before the injector flow plug connector the braided wire just stops and has no where to go? Just wondering if this is supposed to be a ground and if so where does it supposed to ground to? Any response is greatly appreciated.
Id have to see a picture broski...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I can text or email it to you
Gimmie ur email
I have a 2001 7.3 with 150k , it's been a great truck . Only issue I've had with the engine is a loose plug under the L valve cover.
Recently it threw a p1211 code while pulling my camper. I use a bully dog just for gauges. It has a 6 position chip which works great.
I got just a hesitation in power . I shut it off and restarted and no eng light . I've drove it a hundred miles since with no more issue.
The truck is very well maintained it also has the hutch mod. and a spin on filter before the elec fuel pump. This is a rust free truck so I never plan on getting rid of it.
Any suggestions , on the 1 time issue . Thanks
Sounds like id be checkin FP under load & see if it drops....
When my IPR started failing the truck would start and run fine when cold or hot, but if I parked for 30 minutes to an hour it wouldn't start again until it cooled off for a couple of hours.
Werd
Rusty Hathaway same issue I’m having
I LIKE IT ! WATCH YOUR VIDEOS MAKE ME FEEL LIKE A BETTER MECHANIC !
Thanks buddy!!
I was waiting for the Friday upload!
Thanks bub, glad to see you back!!
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod can you contact me? 662-321-2934
Very good inf. Nice video I learned something new today yyyaaauuu🙏
Tjanks pal
Did you have to add oil to the hpop when you put the new plug back in?
No
Great video.. I have a question.. I removed my fuel bowl and HPOP due to oil leak , replaced all seals and reinstalled. She took about 30 seconds of cranking to fire off on the initial firing, I let her run for about a half hour while cleaning up. But now when I shut her down and let her sit she take around 10 to 20 revolutions to fire back up.. once running and I shut her of and then immediately fire back up she fires right away. But if I let her sit, shes back to 10 to 20 cranks... any thoughts .. thanks Mike
2002 7.3 Ford F350
Need to go drive dat shit to purge out the air....assuming you habe everything back together correctly. Check out my latest video I JUST did on that
I think I might have the same problem on my 2000 f450.. do I need to get the part from the dealer… or anything from Autozone would work?? I heard is best to use them from the dealer!!
Nice upload, having that dang computer has to be helpful, other then the tried and true swap it till it runs w/o knocking, or what ever other symptom may be present, but now I know if I hear knockin it could be IPR or any of the other zillion sensors! Im refreshing myself on the PSD as I just bought another in a 96 F350 4x4 box truck.. Glad I still have my 7.3 IDI though.
Friggin rights bud
Working on one now, when in park if i rev it pretty high it stalls out on the return to idle, does this sound like an ipr issue?
Hardly any miles on the clock, and for a 7.3 yet, guys would be tripping all over themselves for a low mile 7.3. Sounds a lot better now after the IPR swap, and yeah not much for PID's but some is better than none. Looks like you got this one solved and in the bag nice work as usual man, keep them videos coming from that secret location...lol
Thanks 4 comin back mista Demon
Excellent description and how to. I am guessing the scan and laptop computer software is a dealer only item?
Thanks for posting.
Eric
No prob, yea it is...
thanks friend for your interesting video i like the video
I have a 7.3 idles fine loosing power stall out. Sets for a few minutes starts right back up have a code p1211 had all 8 injectors replaced new fuel pump cleaned out the 2 screens in tank only code coming back is the p1211 is it the icp solenoid
Could be what u saw in the video...
Have you ever seen that cause a p1316 on an 02? Injector driver module. It also has the low boost code p1247
I use an inch and an eighth box end wrench. Works just fine for me.
Dude you save my life! Thank you!
Thanks!
My 02 7.3 shut off driving down the interstate at 80mph with zero warning. I made it to the shoulder and it would crank strong but not even try to start. Got a tow home and when I pulled off the trailer it started right up. I suspect the IPR valve and that is how I found you.
I have had another problem that I have no idea on. For the last 2-3 years I get a very loud sucking sound when pulling a trailer uphill and now I get it even without a trailer. It goes away when I down shift and the rpms come back up. It is incredibly disappointing to have a 7.3 but feel like I am towing with an old v8
Probably your cam sensor. The other probably and exhaust back pressure control solenoid under turbo in the turbo pedestal...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thank you for the response. I will start studying those two things.
I have a '99 Super Duty with a 7.3 and my oil pressure gauge on the dash always reads a little low. Do you think I have a bad IPR too? I kept adding oil but the gauge never read higher. I stopped after adding 7 quarts because it got hard to start and kept smoking when I revved it. Are the IPR valves you have in China better than the ones in the US?
Ur IPR valve has no relation to the gauge on the ole dash. Yes the ones from Bangladesh are the most cost effective as a replacement
I did change my IPR valve N still no start is it because I did not put oil back in the Resavor that was my Question ?????? please let me know Thanks John
If u have no oil in the reservoir than that is the issue you need to figure out. An ipr wont fix that issue
Great video my brother has 2003 7.3 we changed CPS and 2 sensors egr and icp behind the alternator the problem is rough idle and it dies we cleaned the fuel tank and filters could it be this sensor ipr that's is bad if there's any way to check with a olms meter thankyou
No need a scan tool...
Got a 2001 f 350 7.3 an changed the IPC 3 times has 368000 miles an runs perfect. All it ever done since new is pull race car trailers everywhere in the usa
What goes bad on the IPR? Is it just the solenoid reason I ask is I don’t have a long enough socket and was wondering if just changing the solenoid would be okay?
What type of socket did you end up using?
you just made my day broo just fix my truck Thanks
Make me a donation fer helping! 🙋♂️🤝
Could this ipr cause my 94 f350 to crank but not start? Battery are both good fuses are good changed fuel pump change alternator starter is also good
Could be.......but it sounds like you need to get it correctly diag'ed so you don't throw any more monies at it...
Love the video I have ordered a IPR and am going to put it on as soon as I get it . I have a starting problem that just started . It won't start my son told me to shoot some starting fluid in the air intake and it cranked and ran great. Let it run for about 10 mins ,cut it off and restarted it. I hope that fixes it. Have you ran into anything like this l only have 180000 miles on it.
Yea bub, probably not gonna fix it. Whats ur email....
scottbellamy72@att.net
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I have the same problem. I replaced the glow plug relay, but it didn't do the job.
scott.mckenzie2@gmail.com
Thanks for a great vid! I'm on my third 7.3, currently 2000 F250 with 230K miles. I have been trying to run down a problem with rough idle, I did have three codes, all sensors, all clean now. After replacing glow plugs because of hard cold start, inspecting wiring harness, putting her all back together I have a p1316 and p0603 code. Another problem to deal with. But the bad idle and loud engine might just be that IPR, or hpop. Will investigate further and thanks again.
I'm debating on buying a 2000-2001 7.3 powerstroke diesel E350 with 227,000 miles for $1,000 and was part of a furniture installation/moving business that was said to be fleet maintained for awhile then taken over by the business personnel to keep up with it. It has been parked since May 2019 and it doesn't show a wait to start (glow plug light) and supposedly it would run then cut out.. but if the glow plug light doesn't illuminate now how would it run prior... I could use some pointers to help me figure out this issue. I've heard about all of the parts with the pcm, ipr etc.. it seems like a bit much for my first 7.3 psd diesel to take on but I know these are legendary engines and would like to pursue it if it's not too much work that it'll cost more than what it's worth. Please help thanks
Why don't you email me
Great job, thanks
Where did u get the part
Is there any way I can contact you and ask you a few questions about the 7.3?
I have an issue with my 7.3l that has me baffled. Is there way I can talk to you?
Give me ur electronic mail address
any vids on a 2001 f450 7.3,,,, crank - no start ? ,,,new hp oil lines and power steering pump installed a week ago ,,,,,,ran with a little burp on the way back from the shop to home ,,,,parked for a week ,,,now crank no start,,,,,,,,installed 2 brand new batteries and still no start ? any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated ,,,thank you
Are you gettin fuel pressure. Just had to put 1 in just a couple of weeks ago
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod good fuel pressure ..getting a code of po 1670 lack of communication from PCM to ficm ...I'm going to light test the glow relays ? or you have any suggestions ?
I have a 2000 F350. When it is cold it has a miss, hesitation, or bucking(not sure what you would call it) at about 1600-2000 rpm. When it gets good and warm seems to go away. Have replaced cps, fuel filter. Any ideas? Also when cold I hear like a ticking sound when driving...seems to come from the drivers side (not positive though) and goes away once warm.
If your willing to support the cause, check out the description and we'll go over anything you want...
awesome video simple basic information good dude working on it thank you, got the DUB
Do you have any videos on how to set the vacuum diaphragm for the turbo WG 2012 6.7 ?
I do not, sorry but if i may ask what are you tryin to do? Shoot me your email if ud like.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ya no dought nunezluis1991@gmail.com I had a customer that got his turbo replaced but I'm not sure if they set the rod lenth right while applying vacuum to the diaphragm. The procedure on All data is a little confusing.
Thank's you. Video. Help me so much 👍👍👍
Holla!! check out my paypal. Help me help u!! 👍🤝
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod muchas grasias. Siñor 🤝
How possible is an oil leak from the IPR? Mines still leaking oil after replacing the high pressure oil lines and fittings, the pedestal O rings and rebuilding the turbo. The oil looks to be coming from the IPR now though.
Not likely at all. Look closer are YOU sure........?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod will check after cleaning out the valley and surrounding area again and running it for a few
UPDATE: I cleaned it all up and found that one of the fittings I had replaced on the HPOP had backed out a bit making it loose and leaking. I had cleaned it really well and replaced all the fittings with the lines to the heads. I used Locktite on them as well so I'm not sure why it happened on that fitting but it is solved now. I also decided on switching out the hoses and fittings to JIC instead. Now a high pressure line will cost a lot less and have a higher burst rating.
Great video thank you , also have a electrical question to see if you could help guide me , 2000 7.3 super duty 6spd 4x4 manual hubs now , my 4x4 dash lights doesn’t illuminate so I checked all fuses and relays under dash and hood , on the relay block under hood for shift motor I can jump the wires and it engages 4x4 but still no dash light and also tested with my neighbors same model truck only difference his is auto trans. I swapped 4x4 shift on fly switch and it operates his as it should and lights illuminate in his . My question is does it sound like a GEM module behind fuse block . I also traced all the wires from shift motor to relay block and they have continuity , also from switch to gem and they they have continuity . I just don’t know if I’m missing another test I should try or even if I could and how to test GEM
I have some pinpoint tests for you to go through I think it would be easier to talk to you besides thru YT, what's your email?
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod dustinhanson80@gmail.com
Thanks again for your time
Np, chk ur email
ARod, I have a 2000 F350 with the 7.3L. Haven't had to do the IPR yet, but did the ICP. I'm curious: as a professional at this stuff, would you say that the 7.3L parts are becoming harder to come by? To me it seems not, but I know a guy who has a 6.0 who swears up-n-down that they are and that I should "upgrade" to a 6.0. Not something I'm that interested in really, I like my 7.3L. And hell the 6.0 isn't that much newer. Anyway, any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
7.3 parts ALLLL day long guys. Nuts and bolts yea but the meat and potatoes no..
02 7.3 what is the hpop psi on idler??
I have an international that's basically running the same way that ford is I have no codes the only code that I have is for a brake pedal sensor it's knocking only on the left side and it sounds like a fuel knock I have been trying to solve this issue for a while cannot find anything other than this information that I've seen from you do you have any other suggestions that may help thanks in advance
YOU NEED TO GET A SCAN TOOL TO MONITOR DATA!!!!!!
Thanks for the info. Great video. 👍🇺🇸
I have a 01 7.3 6speed. I was wondering your opinion on what to replace for a rough idle you could call it. Anytime I get up past 1100 rpms and let's say push the clutch in it only drops down to 1100rpm and has a shitty sound and idle. Or kick it out of gear coming to a stop light. Then eventually "calms" down and idle at around 750.
Might have a few things goin on. Leaking icp sensor maybe, an under-valve-cover harness connection. Probably have to get a scan tool on it.
I replaced the ICP, did a buzz test on the injectors all came back good. I thought maybe bad injector or stuck injector but not oil in my fuel filter or anything.
Hey what is that program?
Good evening, I came across your video and I am having an issue with my 02 F350 7.3. I have changed my ipr, icp, cps, fp, and fuel filter and I still can not get the truck to run properly. It takes forever to start and when it does it only runs for about 20-30 seconds. I have connected the fuel pump directly into a 5 gal container to make sure the pick up in the tank is not clogged. Still have the same issue. Any advice would be great.
Shoot me ur email or direct message me on IG @PTT_W_AROD!
Having the same issue with mu 97 7.3. Just replaced the CPS and , that wasn't it. I think it's the IPR after watching your video. Truck sounded the same but won't start now. It wants to start but won't.
My truck stopped running but it’s not throwing a code I changed my cps that didn’t fix it was it ur ipr valve?
Yea but theres MORE to diag than juss pullin' codes pal....
No I’m just confused would it throw a code if the ipr valve went out?
Most def, & it cld not as well. Part of looking at data and deciphering what it means
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod
Yes sir I’m new to the 7.3 I love my truck it started running rough when I would be at a stop light I would lightly hit the Excelerator she would die and after sitting over night she would give me trouble starting I don’t have any engine lights and I bought a cheap code reader from harbor freight and it’s not showing any codes
Diesels have gone from being very reliable to unreliable with all this electronic crap. A trip to the dealer or a repair shop is $300 -$3000. So I bought the software. While I consider the 7.3 the best pickup engine I've had, I wish it was a Detroit with mechanical injectors and no electronics, no electrical needs except for the starter. Just got towed home when the cam position sensor quit. Had a spare, but not with me. Taking a local trip in a modern diesel truck is like leaving in a ship for an around the world cruise, packed full of engine spares.
when the cam position sensor goes, you can just unplug it and the trucks computer PCM will run the sensor on default so you can limp it home until you replace the sensor
That is definitely NOT correct information.....
I have a 2002 7.3 128k miles dies out once in a while at idle or driving if you are not on the throttle. Crank & no start after that unless you let it sit. Ipr symptoms?
Possibly, other stuff to check that would cause that too tho...
I have replaced CPS & ICP and still same thing. Can you Email me to help me out? Jason.jaramillor@gmail.com
@Arod at 3v05 when you fire it up, have you started it and tried hitting the accelerator at all when its idling rough like that? I have an e99 all stock (to my knowledge) and I have damn near the same idle situation however it's not knockin hard like that. I've replaced the icp sensor with an oem motorcraft one. Fresh oil and filter. New oem fuel filter. I'm chasing an issue. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm reading as much as possible and trying to get well informed as I attempt to diagnose and fix. If you have any advice please help. I had an 01 with 380k on it before and no issues. This e99 only has 180k on it but I'm assuming it's been somewhat abused in a commercial fleet that didnt know how to maintain or operate these old dinosaurs properly. Thanks in advance.
At 3:05*
Forgot to add to the story.. it will run rough like that until I run her a bit harder goin thru the gears and really gettin the turbo to spool up. Almost seems like it has a clog or some kinda restriction goin on and then all the sudden let's loose.
Sounds like you need injectors. When they are cold they stick. As engine oil temp goes up the power starts to come back. Not maintaining the oil will make your concern happen
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod if I get it to a shop and have them run the key on engine off injector test would that be sufficient enough evidence to determine that for sure? I'm really hoping that's not the case but really wouldn't suprise me. I bought the truck cause its rust free. The longer I have it the more I find that needs fixed.. it sucks bein willing to try and fix one of these fuckers but itll be worth the money if my wife dont kill me first haha
No that wont, that just tests the electrical portion. The issue is with the mechnical side, the portion that has oil running thru it. U need 2 pull all 8 and have them bench tested!