Episode 132 Applying A New Guitar Clear Coating Product From Solarez
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- Опубликовано: 10 янв 2019
- In this episode, I explain how I applied a new UV curable gloss clear coat product from Solarez called I Can’t Believe It’s Not Lacquer.
I Can’t Believe It’s Not Lacquer: bit.ly/2M7IW8N
Solarez Clean Up Solvent: bit.ly/2sn0Awl
Foam Applicator Pad: amzn.to/2SR80U8
Eagle Brand Kovax sandpaper: bit.ly/2sli9Nn
Foam Polishing Pads: amzn.to/2D6rkaD
3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound: amzn.to/2REYIxr
Meguiars Medium Polish: amzn.to/2M5ozJD
Meguiars Swirl Remover: amzn.to/2VJb2f3 
Видеоклипы
How he does it:
Prep the work area
Vacuum surface area
remove as much dust in working area
Sheller from indirect light as much as possible
Get rid of dust, vaccum guitar & use cloth with denatured alcohol wipe guitar down
Wipe guitar down with antistatic rag
Pour some solarez into a container
Dab some solarez on the surface with a brush
Spread around with the foam pads, spread as thin, smooth and even as you can (makes it easier to level sand with a fine grit)
When covered whole guitar, let it rest for 5-10 mins
Take outside, expose to sunlight on each side for about a minute or two
Thorough but light pressure scuff sand with 400grit, all surface areas
Vacuum, alcohol wipe again
Apply 2nd coat in same way
Scuff sand 800grit
(don’t worry too much about any dust spots… they go away with subsequent coats/sands and buffing)
Wet sand after 6 coats, p800 or p1000 sandpaper
Then buffing process (buffing wheel or foam pads)
I am so interested in the Solarez products...thanks to you! Im glad you are covering these. Thanks!
Chris once again you come through with another great product,
Hey Chris, thanks to you I purchased a quart of this product. I don't have a guitar ready to test it on yet, but am looking forward to it! I love the idea of going from applying the finish to buffing in the same day! Thank you so much for sharing your experiences! It is greatly appreciated.
Excellent video and process.
Chris, thank you for taking the time to share this amazing product with us. I am definitely looking for durability and a hand rubbed finish that may not require a spray gun. Thanks again for sharing. Your guitars look amazing.
I like the fact that you like to help other luthiers. I’m trying to get into creating guitars of my own and I watch lots of your videos. I hope I can create a guitar as well made and as beautiful as your guitars. Thank you for making these videos. God bless you and your business my friend.
Go for I've been building for a year turned out 5 the first year . It's a amazing experience and its wonderful to pick up a guitar you made and know that well . My playing has significantly improved theres just a connection between player and maker .
I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience with this product. I'm thinking of trying it on acoustic guitars.
Do try it on an acoustic and be sure to tell Solarez what you think. They would love to know your impression of how it affects the resonance of the wood on an acoustic.
Thank you for taking your time to describe the whole process. Now i just hope i can order/find it in Europe in the next future. Keep the good work.
Solarez said they have an importer for this product in Poland maria@m-info.eu
they should be getting the first batch soon :)
The more we are in Europe asking for it the more likely they will import it steadily ;)
This channel is abundantly helpful! Thanks a ton!
Just wanted to let you know I have watched a lot of your videos, and you are so kind and helpful. It is sincerely appreciated that you share your expertise. I am novice doing a kit build for a friend of mine as a surprise, certainly no luthier, and these videos have been immensely helpful. I’ve felt like I was in a little over my head for most of the process, but you have definitely given me a lot of confidence with your thorough explanations. Ordered the Solarez I can’t believe it’s not lacquer today, will be applying it next weekend, and can’t wait based on your breakdown. I’ll share results here once we’ve completed the process.
Make sure you test on scrap first to get a feel for how ICBINL works. I promise you'll learn a lot by testing first.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you so much for the reply! does the type of wood I test on have a big impact? I have a less Paul kit with a maple top and mahogany body. I used grain filler on the mahogany. My test wood is a piece of pine I picked up from the hardware store. Thanks again for everything 🙏
Great stuff, you are the best, now find out if this is available in Nederland, thank you for testing, comments and sharing 👍🤘
I'm currently re designing a 59 Les Paul and I'm very keen to try out this product..... It seems a lot easier and I'm always a "Doing by hand" kind of person. So I'll definitely try this out... And many thanks for the video.
living in Florida where it's almost always hot w/ high humidity it's almost impossible for a home builder to spray Nitro without finish issues. Solarez seems to be the answer.
Thank you, sir. Very interesting. I have a quart but the weather has been cloudy and foggy since I got it.
Very interesting looking stuff. Thanks for the update!
Thank you for posting. I had trouble finding a clear coat that hardened properly.. in my house anyway. I don't want to spend a fortune on equipment and product. Tried solarez icbinl..WOW!! Let me say 1st i don't prefer the thick plastic look on my guitars, i prefer to hand rub in thinner coats..solarez worked great for me, but what i found is it works better on sealed wood. I use oil based stains mostly so i let the stain dry for about 1 week or until the smell goes away, as i'm in no hurry. next i apply as thin a coat as possible like in your video THANKS AGAIN!! Then sand away any dust nibs and recoat a few times and polish final coat. I usually prefer a satin sheen..So far it's working for me..i get a thin hand rubbed hard finish..then i hang indoors by a window for another week or so...this stuff is fantastic and thanks again for posting your vid!!
Fantastic review. Can't wait to try Solarez.
hi Chris,I did some mathematical computations and figured that I’m running twice the speed that you are and I’m probably burning the surface a little. So I went ahead and ordered your plans for a polisher and I’m going to make that. Thanks for all your sage advice ,Jerry
Great as always chris !! thanks again !!
It is a nice idea to be able to just wipe on a product, cure it, sand it and buff it out. I love the convenience of that. Heck, no one wants to smell these harsh chemicals we use but, with the type of mirror finishes we luthier are looking for, I think at the cost of convenience, spaying is the ticket. That will take care of the drag mark you're getting. Does sound like a good product worth trying. Thanks!
Even when I test sprayed it, I detected hardly any odor.
This is something you don't hear very often. If you have some furniture foam you can use it to squeeze clear-coats and paint on for a finish that looks like it's been sprayed. There's a lot of technique involved and half of the paintings I sell are foamed. This is very nice for stencils and you don't have to mask like you're spraying.
Imagine making a small shape like a bird, tiny,
using printing paper, and with a good foaming technique, stencil the bird around the edge of your guitar or make a flock flying here and there, in what will feel like a matter of minutes. Why not make some faux pas purfling around a solid-body guitar, that would be new for everyone.
Just ordered! Excellent choice for me I build guitars in a 12x12 shed... cant spray in house and I would probably blow up my shed with lacquer fumes lol will let you know how it goes... thanks again.
Hey there. I just received my order from Wahoo of the I Can't Believe... resin. Cannot wait to try it!
I need to try this product
With most finishes that I've used (N/C lacquers, and catalyzed finishes) you need to avoid direct sunlight; as, when the wood warms up, it releases air bubbles through the curing coats
I don't know if it would be workable, in my shop, as we do larger projects than guitars, but it's worth a try
I’m going to give this a shot definitely!
You mentioned the drag marks showing up and wondered if applying heat would allow it to level out better, maybe increasing room temperature would allow it to level? Thanks for taking the time to create these these videos.
You can heat it in a microwave and it will have a viscosity like water.
I love your videos. I plan to try this produce.
Great video. Thank you
I've been painting and finishing since 1972 that's 47 years. I've been doing it full time Professionally 60-80 hours per week since 1980. Try applying with a Purdy Syntox Paint Brush. These are Super Fine Synthetic Filament Brush Bristles hence the name Syntox= Synthetic Ox Hair. These Brushes will lay down a Glass Smooth Finish and whilst they can be used for Solid Colour Opaque Paints, Purdy Syntox Brushes are Specifically Designed for All Clear Coat Finishes. Try ✋ Hand Buffing using Tri-M-ite Wet/Dry Polishing Paper. I get the Assortment Pack. It's 6 different Colour Coded Grits beginning with the Olive Green 400 Grit and ending with (nearly) White 8,000 Grit. I get my 3M Polishing Paper from Rio Grande Jewelry Supply because their Assortment Pack contains 2 Full Size 9"× 11" Sheets of 6 different Colour Coded Grits (that's 12 Sheets total) for around $15, the same price everybody else charges for 1 Sheet of 6 Grits (6 Sheets total). Menzerna also has a Special Black Bar Compound great for Polishing Unfinished Ebony, 🌹 Rosewood and other Dark Coloured Tropical Hardwood Fretboard's. I can use the Menzerna Black Coloured Polishing Compound and Polish the Frets & Fretboard at the same time without having to Tape anything up. When I'm Finished Buffing my Frets look like Chrome and my Unfinished Ebony &🌹 Rosewood Fretboards Shine like Lacquered Maple. In addition to the Super Slick feel of the High Gloss Unfinished Fretboard. The look is Phenomenal and really makes Your 🎸 Guitars stand out from the Crowd. This not only Looks and Feels Great it's faster, easier and a lot less work because you don't have to spend all that time taping up the Fretboard. You just Buff Everything, Frets & Fretboard at the same time. The bottom line is it Looks & Feels better and it's Less Work. Lastly I use Bore Doctor from Doctor's Products. It's a Blend of Tropical Hardwood Oils and Antioxidants. There's nothing else like it on the Market. With the exception of Bore Doctor all Fretboard Oil/Treatments are either Mineral Oil which clogs the Pores of your Fretboard or Linseed Oil which seals the Pores of your Fretboard. This is the last thing you want. So Called "Lemon Oil" is just Lemon Scented Mineral Oil. Real Lemon Oil is very Acidic and therefore highly Corrosive. Bore Doctor is the same type of Oil that's Naturally Found in Hardwood Fretboard's. It replaces their Natural Oils without Clogging the Pores of the Wood. It's the only Product I've ever seen that will Penetrate and Soak all the way Through a Fretboard. In all my 47 years of Finishing I've never seen anything do this!
I hope this helps you. Feel Free to contact me anytime.
(910)-818-3279
thepainter.198094@gmail.com
God Bless You, Your Family and Your Loved Ones!!
Jimmy in NC....
Whew! My mothers' father served a seven-year sign-painting apprenticeship in Scotland,
and I was drawing the alphabet the way he showed me how to paint it in kindergarten,
before the other kids could even write the alphabet. But I never heard of a Syntox brush.
I'm glad I've got my two grits of Hawaiian volcanic pumice powder to make me feel good.
Maybe we should have a grit game, seeing your White 8,000 and upping you with my
green wet and dry 1,600. I better stop typing before I get going on here.
@@johnwattdotca Syntox Paint Brushes are made by the Purdy Brush Company. These are readily available everywhere Home Depot Lowe's Sherwin-Williams Ace hardware etc. They have ultra fine nylon bristles. They're best when use with water-based finishes but they work with solvent-based also. Purdy's Ox-O-Thin brushes are specifically made for solvent-based finishes. they're excellent for thin clear coat finishes worry finishes like zinsser sealcoat which is real thin wax free shellac lease type brushes work great for this type of finish. They're made from ultra fine white china bristle and Ox hair blended together. There are also fairly easy to find. Go to a store open a Syntox brush and and any regular nylon or nylon polyester blend paint brush and hold them side-by-side and you'll see how much finer the bristles are on the Syntox Paint Brushes.use a little plain regular dish soap when cleaning any water-based finishes and be sure to rinse the brush with clear water at the end of your washing cycle. the dish soap will cut all the ingredients that are in the bottom of your bristles out of your brush and keep your bristles softer and cleaner better than just plain water But be sure you rinse out the soap, knock out the water and comb out your Brush using a Brush (Bristle) Comb before putting them back in their proper Shuck (little cardboard/paper brush holder that comes with the brush). If you do this every time you brush will last year's. White tulle and thin coats of Birchwood Casey Tru oil followed by polishing with 3m polishing paper is the best finish that I've used especially if you don't have any spray equipment. Zinsser Seal Coat is the Best all around Sealer I've used especially good for a Barrier Coat used over an Old Finish to make your new Finish stick to your new Finish. Remember everything Sticks to Wax Free Shellac and Shellac sticks to everything. I'm gonna give the Solarez a try. It sounds like a great product. Please feel free to contact me anytime. I don't know everything but I know where to get a lot of things custom hand wound pickups, really super high-quality the best on the market guitar hardware Bridges, Trem Units, etc made from super high grade Metals. Pretty much everything I know where to find it usually it really good prices and I will help you all that I can.
(910)-818-3279
thepainter.198094@gmail.com
God Bless You, Your Family and Your Loved Ones!!
Jimmy in NC....
@@jamesreaves5534! I feel bad you typed so much for me, after answering my question right away. Yes, I had sign brushes and used 1SHOT, and I'm using acrylics as a fine artist now, just something to do.
You also are hearing from someone who wanted to pump up my artistic reputation to reflect my previous music career as a lead guitarist-vocalist. When I got some long hair cut off, growing it out just to try it and see all my white hair, I saved it, and tell everyone I made some long-hair brushes out of it. That grosses some people out so I say I haven't done it yet.
I'm still using some brushes my one grandfather made in Scotland. That's the best. As far as acrylics go, I'm collecting brushes like toothbrushes, dish washing brushes to wire brushes, more about brushing wet and dry paint for effects and "sanding" paint off.
I hope you're having a good day.
as always, John Watt
I always wanted a Boss Ross paintbrush set. Just to slap it back and forth on the easel and make that glorious sound.
Oil on top of oil, not for guitars but amazing for mountains and happy little squirrels that live in trees that cover up most of the mountains that you just painted.
Hi James. Thanks for all the great info.
I have Menzerna One Step polish at home and I am wondering if I can use it the way you described above on my Maple neck? This Maple neck is unfinished. Once very 6 months I only clean it with naphta and then seal it with Pure 100% TUNG OIL diluted in turpentine. Can I use this Menzerna the way you you mentioned above? Thanks mate!!
This video is awesome!
good luck sanding those mountains out mate!
Piece -O-Cake with a random orbital sander.
I would recommend a small flexible sanding block to level things better for you. They will speed up the sanding process as well.
They also conform to irregularities which makes them useless for achieving a gloss finish that is capable of yielding a flawless mirror reflection.
The best instruction so far on youtube, regarding Filler & Sealer also Clear gloss or Clear coat! I have these 2 questions below.
Before color we apply Grain Filler & Sealer?
After color we apply Clear gloss?
Both applications are from the same brand?
Thank you so much,
Yes, yes, and yes.
I need to check this stuff out it looks great. I seem to remember you saying your based in Denver. You ever talk to the guys at Texas Toast guitars? They're somewhere in the Denver area.
Great tutorial about this product application! Thanks. Only a question: can it be applied on the neck as well?
Yes.
Thank you for the great video. Do you have an estimative of how many guitars (body&neck) can you paint with a quarter?
You can add mekp dye to the mekp hardener to mix with the solarez.
Try sandblasting the solarez with a fine aluminum oxide . The areas that are flat and lightly sandblasted should be rough enough to accept another coat of solarez , and you wouldn't have to worry about sanding through the solarez and exposing the wood , even if the solarez was on the thin side . Seems t o me the sharp corners of the aluminum oxide would abrade the solarez enough to keep the following coat from delaminating and you could apply solarez a lot thicker let coat , quickly sandblast between coats , then flatten everything after film buildup is thick enough to eliminate the possibility of a sand through . Then just keep polishing with finer and finer grit paper .
Thanks Chris, this stuff is great. I can't find a lot of info on usage apart from your videos though. You spoke about sanding to level between coats, but is it also necessary for adhesion?
Richard Elam actually it’s more for adhesion than it is for leveling.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. Perfect timing. I had already sanded between the first two coats, but wasn't sure if I would need to the rest of the way if it was looking good. Now I know!
This sounds like a great product for someone like me who doesn't have spray equipment or buffing machines. I have a handful of questions: 1) You state that you use 400 grit after the first coat, and 800 grit after the second coat. Since you put six coats on the guitar, did you stick with 800 after all subsequent coats, or did you go finer on the sand paper at some point? 2) Can you then dry sand the Solarez finish like you described in another video? 3)Have you used Solarez on the necks of your guitars? 4) Have you also used the Solarez grain sealer/filler prior to using I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer? If yes, how well did it work? 5) Have you refined any of the Solarez-specific techniques you shared in this video? Thanks for all the great tips you provide. You have become my #1 go-to source for guitar-building techniques and information.
1. 800 grit is as fine as I go.
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
4. It worked fine.
5. Not really.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for your fast reply, and thanks for all the great videos. Really like your delivery and style. I’m sure you’ve helped thousands of guitar builders. Have you ever considered offering your guitars as a neck/body kit that someone like me could buy and then assemble, finish, and customize with our own pickups, tuning machines, etc? I think you could sell tons of them.
@@bearh8r my favorite part is finishing a guitar, so no, I would never consider offering kits.
Hi Chris, great video, do you think it would be suitable for the fretboard as Rickenbacker do?
This stuff looks amazing and sad I'm only just now hearing about it. I think it's exactly what I'm looking for. My one question is I've only ever seen it used on natural finishes. I'm restoring a guitar that had junk clear coat but the base black paint is in great shape. Is this ok to use on that? Thanks!
I bought the Solarez dual cure poly resin to try and finish my guitar with that. I am not sure if this is different than your formula but I cannot keep the pinhole bubbles from forming about midway through the resin. they form like off gas bubbles but never pop, so when its cured you have all these bubbles making the surface look like garbage! have you had issues with bubbles or surface flaws? so far none of the claims from solarez has been met with this dual cure stuff. I'm hoping I just bought the wrong "formula" for my application. I am building my first guitar for my dad and its only about a year past due so I need a quick easy durable finish coat.... doesnt have to be Gibson custom shop or PRS select quality... just want a nice glossy surface that doesn't look like polished Swiss cheese! Thank you and I enjoy your videos and I am grateful for all that you do for the community.
Are you using the dual cure polyester or the I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer? This video is about the latter.
@@HighlineGuitars I'm using the dual cure, was hoping it was similar... Would you recommend the I can't believe it's not laquer, or crystalac britetone? I've been watching all your videos on both.
This draws interest from me because I plan on repainting my guitar soon, but don't want to use automotive paints, which is not only expensive, but deadly and time consuming. I have also seen other companies that make similar products, which go under the UV curable coating title. I just wonder if you can use these UV coatings over acrylic paints, which would be ideal due to less toxic chemicals.
Try it. I did and it seems to work fine.
@@HighlineGuitars Great! I definitely am going to try it.
Do you get any witness lines if you sand thru one layer into another?? Or do the layers melt together?? I would imagine with the layers being super thin, you might sand thru one layer into another. Good video
I saw witness lines after wet sanding, but not after buffing.
Nice!!!!
Thanks for the videos Chris. Can you tint the Solarez grain filler?
No. Tinting will prevent it from curing properly.
Really nice video. I would like to use Solarez as a top coat, but I want to first bring out a deep maple flame. What do you recommend to use to bring out the flame, that will also play well with Solarez? thank you again.
Any water or alcohol based dye.
When you say "scuff sand it" are you sanding to where there are no longer shiny spots?
Do you know if this product can be applied over a wipe on poly. I like to use the poly as a grain filler. Thanks
I'm waiting on my first kit to arrive presently and I really think I'm going to give this a go, at least on the top. My original plan was water based dye, followed by Aqua Coat filler then a top coat (previously TBD). Would you recommend Aqua Coat which seems to be tried and true by many, or the partner Solarez sanding sealer product to go with this finishing step? Regardless, your channel is amazing, thanks for sharing all of your insights!
Ask Solarez to send you their new thicker grain sealer/filler. It has the consistency of pancake batter and is awesome as a grain filler.
@@HighlineGuitars I'll reach out to them! Is it also clear / suitable for application post dye / before final finish?
I know this question is a year old, but in case anyone else is wondering about this... I used StewMac water-based dye, let it dry thoroughly, then tried putting the grain sealer over it and the dye immediately started coming off and mixing with the grain sealer. I ended up having to sand it all the way back down to bare wood. The grain sealer remained in the pores and fissures (swamp ash), so I then put the dye back on it and I am now planning to use the "I Can't Believe it's Not Lacquer" brush on formula over that. I am debating whether I need to seal with shellac first...
Great video Chris!
Question for you...
I'm considering trying that but I'm not sure if I should buy the one that you use with a brush or the one for spraying gun... your thoughts?
Thank you in advance!
Go with the brush on. In reality, you can use the brush on for either application. If spraying it, you made need a slightly larger needle.
@@HighlineGuitars Awesome!
Thanks Chris! keep making great videos!
I'm a big fan of them! :-)
Hi I make fishing rods and a few yrs back a product similar came to market it was a UV cure 1 part epoxy I use to use it for emergency binding repairs on site at fishing comps, I thaught this is it stuff would apply easily dry in minutes not hrs and hrs with normal sunlight and even quicker with a UV light box. Problem was whilst it got the guys out of trouble and back in action quickly the stuff never actually stopped setting up for all intensive purposes it was usable in minutes but after the angler used the rod mostly in direct sun light whilst fishing it would start to crack it was like it kept shrinking over time. Now it was not some red but it was awfully similar so maybe something to consider especially if you rack your guitars in a room with Windows. I'm not sure if it would happen but maybe keep an eye on things or even do a test piece and leave it in a window. On rods it would go on like a tube shape so if I were doing a time test put some flat and complex curves into the test material. Great vids keep them up super informative.
Solarez doesn't do anything like what you describe.
Can this product be applied over an opaque color, like an acrylic lacquer paint?
I've watched your video for this and for the Solarez Polyester Resin, which do you prefer? I know you mentioned the difference between this and the poly but I am having a hard time deciding which product to use - I have a spray booth and HPLV gun so I can spray or brush on. It seems like the Polyester gives a little better finish but is more work to sand? Is that correct?
The Polyester is extremely hard and very difficult to sand unless you use a random orbital sander. Also, both products have issues with tiny pinholes which require a lot of testing to determine the right temperature to apply them. In the end, I like ICBINL because it's easier to work with.
Hi Chris. IIRC in a previous episode you used the solarez as a grain seal then shot a green sunburst with crystalac. How is the adhesion between the two products as that instrument ages? Has there been any incompatibility issues? Have you gone so far as to try a sandwich of solarez seal coat/a colored crystalac layer/solarez top coat? Thanks
Don't know, no and no.
Solarez is just polyester finishing resin with a UV additive. Want to increase sandability add more wax/styrene monomer solution. Just ask your surfboard manufacturer suppliers, they can give you the run down. If you add the right amount, you can almost get a level finish by brush. If you ever experience sanding/finishing a longboard, you better level that finishing coat, otherwise the sander will rip your head off. Plus cost of 1 litre of solarez = 4 litres when buying, resin, uv additive and wax separately
I want to know if it can be blended as a repair, in other words to add a coat to cover a repaired area while not covering the whole guitar, but blending into the old finish.
Thank you for this great content.
I'm finishing the exterior of a Jarrah wood snare drum. I have been using Tru oil and am very happy with so far. I lightly sand with 0000 steel wool in between coats that I let dry for 24hrs.
I am up to 10 coats and thinking about how to end the process. I'm looking for a hi-gloss finish.
My initial though was to finish with the last 3 or 4 layers of Tru oil ... thinning it with napthia or mineral spirits.
Then let it cure for two weeks so I can polish it out.
However, now that I've seen your video... I thought I could use Solarez to finish the snare drum.
Would Solarez work over Tru Oil after I let it cure? Would you suggest it?
Or is my continuing process with Tru oil and then thinning with napthia for the last 4 coats, sufficient for a hi gloss finish?
Any suggested polishing compounds that you can recommend with true oil finish?
Thank you again for this great content.
Sorry, I don't use Tru Oil.
Hello, thank you for taking so much helping others learn.how to finish guitars! I want to use Solarez but I already have a new can of minwax polyurethane. Should I throw away the polyurethane and buy the solarez? Thank you!
Do whatever you want.
@@HighlineGuitars why would you bother sending that reply? Did your dog die this morning or something? Skipped your meds? Constipated?
How many guitar bodies can be done with a 4 oz bottle (let's say 3 thin coats)? One? Two?
Is this Solarez truly "crystal clear", or does it have the typical slightly yellowish tint of many other finishes? (And I love your style in delivering your experiences in these videos.)
Water clear.
Hi Chris, I have been watching these videos regarding Solarez for some time and thanks for making them. You mention that the company may be producing something specific for guitar finishing but don't see anything on their web sie. Do you have any further updates on the product or its use.
I Can’t Believe It’s Not Lacquer is what was developed with luthiers in mind.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks I did wonder if that's the case. I have to say it looks good but would need to get some form of UV lamp as its not so reliably sunny here in Devon England
looks amazing. have u tried the artist epoxy resin as a finish? ive seem a few videos on here where some guy applied resin to a canvas print he had and wanted a gloss finish on it. it self leveled and cured overnight and the next day was hard as a rock and had a mirror finish. not sure how it would be on a guitar body with the pickup cavaties etc, but it may be worth a look. love your videos by the way and always follow your work so i would be interested in your opinion, cheers nick
I’ve read amazon reviews saying it does smell and takes forever to cure, leaving a sticky surface.
I wouldn't put a lot of faith in Amazon reviews. The folks who write reviews are almost as insane as the people who comment on RUclips.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks for the helpful reply.
So you recommend 7 layer ICBINL over a solarez product that is more viscous, requiring less layering? Thanks for your videos.
ICBINL is much easier to work with. You can do as many or as few coats as you want. It all comes down to how confident you can level sanding without sanding through. Also, ICBINL is nowhere near as stinky as the other products.
Thinking of giving this stuff a shot. Do you know if it can be put over an oil based paint? Or better yet, do you know what it can ans can't be put on top of?
You'll have to contact Solarez to find out for sure. I've only used it over oil-based stain and water-based acrylic paint. I had no problems, but I can't guarantee which products it will and won't adhere to.
I am new to finishing guitars and could use some help. I have a mahogany body with maple cap and will be using (crimson) water base stain on it. Do you think I should use Solarez Grain Sealer to close the wood grain and then follow that up with Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer to clear coat the guitar? Based on your other videos it looks like this would be OK. P.S. great content on this channel and I like that you are always looking at new and innovative ideas.
You certainly can. However, with Solarez, I get the best results with a buffing machine. If you don't have one, a water-based poly like Crystalac's Brite Tone might work better for you. And yes, you can brush on Brite Tone.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you so much for the super fast response and great advise. With Crystalac's products I would have to take into account a longer drying and cure time if I am not mistaken.
I tried this product after watching one of your previous videos. I really like it. Tested it on scrap and worked as expected. However when I used it on two guitars with plastic binding the binding cracked. One guitar cracked slightly and the other the binding cracked so bad a piece came off. Have you had this problem before? I’ve used binding a ton and never had this problem. Not sure it’s Solarez but it’s the only thing that’s new in my last 2 builds.
No, and I can't imagine how this product would cause binding to crack. I assume you are using I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer. They also sell other products and in the past, I have done videos on applying their Gloss Polyester resin, which is totally different.
@@HighlineGuitars yeah i dont think its their product but its the first two guitars ive used it on and the binding cracked. Never had that problem before. I did send them a note and they said theyve not heard of that happening from anyone before.
I had that happen to a guitar I just built using the Solarez I Can’t Believe Its Not Lacquer. I thought it was the acetone process I put the binding on with but I never had it happen before. Hmm.
What size aircap / needle for spraying with HVLP?
What type of binder do you use with your stains or dyes would you use with Solarez?
Water-based polyurethane like Crystalac Brite Tone.
I put 7 coats of Danish oil on a tele style body. If I let it cure for a few weeks, can I put Solarez over it? By the way, the top is a really nice spalted maple and the base is mahogany. :)
You should be able to but test on scrap anyway. The guitar in this video was stained with an oil based stain which is the basis of Danish oil.
As a first timer, how do you go about coating the entire body in one go without touching one side to your bench and/or hanging and running the risk of dripping?
I attach a handle in either the neck or pickup pocket. To prevent runs and drips, I keep rotating the body as I apply it and while it levels.
How does Solarez handle humidity compared to other lacquers? does it blush?
You'll have to ask the folks at Solarez. I live in drought-stricken Colorado!
Is this available in some other names in Canada? Couldn’t find much on the brand. Also, would you recommend this over an oil finish?
Those are questions for the manufacturer.
Can you put it over laquer paints? I want to paint the back of my guitar with a solid colour and seal the front and back with Solarez. Would you recommend another kind of paint instead of laquer?
I believe you can put Solarez over lacquer, however, I have never done so. Therefore I would recommend testing on some scrap first. Normally when I use paint, I use water-based acrylic, which works fine.
This stuff looks great, though it looks like the only Solarez supplier in the UK is a surfing shop in Cornwall, so I doubt they'll be handling a guitar product :(
Obvious suggestion for solarez though, a line of colours so it can be tinted.
Solarez said they have an importer for this product in Poland maria@m-info.eu
they should be getting the first batch soon :)
The more we are in Europe asking for it the more likely they will import it steadily ;)
Curious if you’ve tried to apply it as a repair finish over shallac and ncell laquer?
No. I don't make repairs and would only use it as a full surface topcoat.
Hey Chris, I have a question for you about Solarez. I finally received my quart of I Can't Believe It's Not Laquer today. I'm using it as a top coat over a guitar that has a maple top cap that is finished with red dye. As I went to apply the first coat of Solarez today, it really lifted/smeared the dye, to the point that it actually bled some of it over onto the bare maple edge binding. Any ideas on how to prevent this?
You can either add a binder to the dye such as a small amount of water-based polyurethane or you can seal the dye after applying it with some Zinsser spray can shellac.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks Chris! I keep Zinsser on hand, so I'll sand back the first two coats of Solarez, re-apply some additional dye, then seal it before starting the clear this time! #learning :)
Hi Chris. I'm the finisher at Nijssen Custom Guitars - we are in the Netherlands / Europe. Can we buy this Solarez ICBITL and test it by spraying ? This looks very promising. Thank for your kind reply.
You'll have to check with Solarez, but I know others in Europe have purchased it. Here's their contact page: www.solarez.com/contact-us/
@@HighlineGuitars I now have done so and Gary responded to my questions...today, on a Sunday! How cool is that? Thanks for you help Chris !!!
Hi there. If you wanted to use the Solarez clear over a solid colour, what type of paint could you use for the solid colour? Thank you.
I mix my own water-based paint using Crystalac CraftNique pigments and Crystalac Brite Tone clear coat.
I know this is a fairly old video to be commenting on at this time. I have used the Solarez product and I’m having difficulty with the polishing. Could you shed some light on polishing with the menzerna products. I have some spots where it appears that there is polishing product left on the guitar I can’t polish out. I can’t tell if it’s a rough spot or needs to be cleaned. I have the Menzerna cleaner product and it doesn’t seem to make any difference on the surface. Could you come in on the pressure needed to make the polishing work well. Thank you very much, I really enjoy your videos.
Look closely at those rough spots. Is it compound residue or micro bubbles in the clear coat? You may need to use a magnifying glass.
It looks more like scratches and it seems to happen when I put more pressure against the polishing wheel. But when I continue polishing even with lighter pressure I can’t seem to polish it out. I am using an ironton 8 inch bench buffer that runs at 3450 RPMs.
@@jerrypuckett684 your wheels are too small and the rpms are too fast. 12” wheels and 900-1,000 rpm.
Thank you Chris I wondered about that. I can make this one work as a 12 inch one I believe if I do a little modifying. Thank you for this help very much. Jerry
Have you changed any of the wood prep prior to using Solarez?
For this one no. I just put it directly over the stained wood. I am testing a very interesting new wood grain filler/sealer from Solarez that I will report on later.
@@HighlineGuitars would be nice if that new grain filler can be tinted with dye or stain to any color we would like it to have.
Do you clear coat a neck and body with the same product? Is Solarez ok for necks? For whatever reason, it seems to me necks require a softer nitro, bodies can be tanks.
I oil my guitar necks. If it's a Maple fretboard, I'll spray it with 2k poly.
Is it posible to apply two coats of solarez resin? If so, is necessary to sand between coats?
Yes, you can apply more coats and yes, you must scuff sand between coats.
I'm using Solarez grain filler and brushable ICBINL on a guitar with lots of binding and purfling, all plastic. Should I mask it off before applying Solarez? Will it scrape off? Or should I apply over the binding and take it through final buff?
I don't know if it will scrape off. I always apply clear over my bindings and just leave it.
@@HighlineGuitars I was kinda hoping you'd say something like that, heh.
Props for your great videos, btw.
How does Solarez I Can’t Believe It’s Not Lacquer compare to the Brite Tone in terms of clarity, scratch resistance etc.? Do you think one is better than the other, without factoring in how difficult they are to use, I'm just talking about the end result.
Brite Tone has better clarity while Solarez has better scratch resistance. Which one is better depends on what you want from your top coat.
Does this sound like a realistic approach?
1: Solarez as a grain filler
2: Add my stain to the guitar
3: Finish with Solarez on top of that?
1. Stain with a water-based stain
2. Solarez ICBINL as a grain filler
3. Level sand
4. Solarez ICBINL as a top coat
How does this stuff play with artist oil paints as coloring? Would I need to spray a coat of shellac as a barrier?
Yes, you should spray a coat of shellac as a barrier.
Can spot repairs be made easily if you were to send through the edge for instance? Does it blend back in smoothly?
There will likely be witness lines, but that will depend on the sandpaper you use and how you buff it (use a buffing machine like the one I use).
Are you using the brush on formula or spray formula?
Brush on.
Question: after the job is finished, how does this product hold up to sun exposure?
I haven't noticed any detrimental effects of sunlight after a guitar is finished, but I don't leave my guitars in the sun for extended periods of time.
@@HighlineGuitars gotcha.. I am just thinking: outdoor gigs
@@jrosner6123 In that case, you would have to contact the manufacturer to see what sort of UV protection is offered. I would be skeptical since UV inhibitors are as effective as suntan lotion. They work great... for a short time.
@@HighlineGuitars gotcha...
Hey Chris, I love your videos. I realize this is an old video, and comments are a year old, but hoping you still may see this. I used this product, but seem to be experiencing problems. Like mist things, it’s probably user error. Anyway, i have carefully level
sanded to 1500 grit. Followed it up with Meguiars Ultra Cut Compound, followed by Meguiars Ultra Finishing Polish, and then Meguiars Mirror Glaze Hi Tech Yellow Wax. The finish is not high gloss. It looks hazy. Should i have level sanded to 2000 grit maybe? It feels like glass, and I don’t see any visible sanding/swirl marks. Any ideas or suggestions on what the problem may be? I am new to all this, and your videos have been very helpful, and motivated me to give tackling some guitar kits. Thanks in advance.
You are doing it right. Unfortunately, I haven't figured out how to get a true lacquer-like high gloss, even with large buffing wheels. I can get a decent gloss, but not as clear as I get with Crystalac Brite Tone water-based lacquer. I plan to do some additional testing on Solarez ICBINL to see if I can get a better gloss. For now, I'll use it as a rapid curing grain filler before spraying Brite Tone.
Highline Guitars thanks for the reply, Chris. Thanks for the great work and videos. You are a wealth of information. Especially to a newbie like me.
@@HighlineGuitars can't wait to see the new results!
Highline Guitars I was hoping for a high gloss. Would it be possible to lay down some coats of Brite Tone over the Solarez , or should I sand the Solarez right down before using Brite Tone? Also, because the Solarez finish is Matte will I even be able to achieve a high gloss with the Brite Tone laid over top?
@@alfiequioc6737 I have had no problems spraying Crystalac over Solarez. In fact, I often use Solarez ICBINL as my grain and pore filler since it doesn't shrink back. Then I'll scuff sand with 400grit and spray 5-6 coats of Crystalac Brite Tone over the top for my final clear coats.
For a neck thru guitar, do you apply and cure it in separate parts I.e. neck separate from body?
I would do it all at once.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you sir!
Can this be sprayed over any of the Createx paints?
I don’t know. Try it.
Can you use it on acrylic paint ?
Yes. I have.
Did you ever try spraying it? I tried it with their recommendations on the site 1.5mm tip, tried low pressure, high pressure, rediculous orange peel.
*ridiculous. Orange peel is not possible with this product. Orange peel can only happen if a portion of the atomized product dries before it lands on the surface. This product can't dry until it is exposed to UV light. Are you allowing it to self level and flow out before curing it? When I spray it, it has a bumpy texture at first, but it disappears within a few minutes as the product flows out before curing it.
@@HighlineGuitars Yeah it's weird. It seems like a two part problem for me. 1. I don't think I can get it to properly atomize. 2. when it hits the surface it almost seems like the droplets combine and separate, much like droplets on a leaf.
@@HighlineGuitars well let me ask you this. What pressure and nozzle size are you using to spray it with? If I can at least eliminate that part of the equation I can probably move onto other things.
Ok. I just ran across this video. Looking into the Solarez product and discovered there are several types. Is this a acrylic or epoxy?
I don’t know. You’ll have to ask them.
@@HighlineGuitars what was the type you used
@@dbohann66 a link is in the description above.
I wonder how this product would work over a fabric topped guitar body?
There’s only one way to find out!
How well will, solarez I can't believe it's not lacquer, be for top coating a wallnut rifle stock that has had four layers of Tru oil applied
I don't know. I make guitars, not rifles (although I would love to) and I don't use Tru Oil. All I can say is test it. I really don't see why it wouldn't work as long as you scuff the Tru Oil with some 220 grit sandpaper first.
Can this product be used on spray paint?
I'm sure it would depend on the spray paint used. Ask Solarez: www.solarez.com/contact-us/