Problems Curing Solarez ICBINL
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2023
- If you've had problems curing Solarez ICBINL, let's try to figure it out together.
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I am a professional furniture maker located in Santa Barbara, California. I recently (last month) completed a dining table in Wenge wood. I used ICBINL to fill the huge pores in the wood.
I just started using Solarez as a finish on my acoustic guitar builds. First off, I live in Florida, so, sunshine is not a problem, second, I had issues using it when the bridge is still on the guitar, I get a buildup that I can't seem to get rid of. Third, I was having problems getting the finish to look smooth and silky, until I watched one of your video where you said to let the Solarez settle in the shade for 3 to 5 minutes before putting it in the sunlight...that worked! Thank you, please, keep up the good work.
Thanks for all the years of great info, good sir!
Thanks for...shedding light on this subject, Chris. 😆
I have been waiting for this one. I have been experimenting with it for a few months. It is picky about what you apply it over. I couldn't get it to cure at all when used over Crystalac "It's knot shellac". It does cure over the Bright tone lacquer though. I like the grain filler, especially when used with the Solarez microbaloons. It does take multiple coats to really fill the grain, but you can easily do 3 an hour. I let it cure for at least 10 minutes here in the hot Alabama sun. It does feel a little tacky on the very surface, but it is really cured. I have issues with the ICNINL though. If I apply it very thin, it seems to disappear when level sanding. If I apply it thicker, it never seems to level. I have left it over night, and it still hasn't leveled. It also forms bubbles that only go away if I sand all the way to wood. I have tried heating it to thin it. It does thin out, but thickens back up when applied to wood. I even put the coated wood in a microwave to warm it, but the stuff still wont flow out. I have yet to get it to take a finish sand and buff. The buffed finish is blotchy. I found that it can be tinted. You have to use an alcohol based dye, and it has to be very concentrated. If you use much, it inhibits curing. I have yet to find a way to thin it. I have been experimenting lately with the Polyester Solarez. If I can get it to level out, I think I will like it better.
I've used this product a few times, and it remained tacky after about 10 minutes of direct sunlight. I live in northeastern Pennsylvania at an altitude of approximately 100 feet above sea level. I applied the product on a sunny day in summer. (I don't recall the time of day.)
Tried both the grain filler and high gloss ICBINL formulas on a scrap piece of poplar initially sanded to 320 grit.
I build on average 5 guitars a week and use this product exclusively with 80% of my builds. I only build electric guitars and use mostly Catalpa, Ash and Alder. I started using on a recommendation of a friend and your channel. I live in st. louis , mo and have never had an issue with ICBINL. I use it all year, winter/summer and absolutely love it! I will say I did buy a UV lamp to use on days that are rainy or really cloudy like in the winter. Thanks Chris! Love your channel, I purchased my gun on your recommendation too, and it was a game changer!
I'm in Evergreen, CO at 7,850 ASL. I've used this product on 3 guitars for grain filling with excellent success. I use foam brushes and give it time to flow out/level, then expose to the sun for 10 mins. I've applied before and after work, cloudy or sunny, and with the sun at a low azimuth. It has cured hard every time and sands easily. I buy the small bottles and they have been consistent. I won't use anything else now.
Hi, I tried this product on a kit guitar after watching your videos. I live in Arizona, and had plenty of sun on the days that I used this. I started with the neck of the guitar, using the same wipe on methods you displayed in your video.... It worked out great. Did multiple coats on the neck and they all cured exactly as I expected it to. However!! When I moved on to the body of the guitar, I began getting coats that never seemed to really dry. It felt tacky.
Based on your recommendation I tried both the ICBINL grain filler and brush on topcoat. I'm an hour and a half north of Montreal, Canada, and I applied both products on a sunny summer's day. The grain filler worked beautifully. I found I could apply it as thick as I wanted and it cured hard and clear within a few minutes, and of course sanded nicely. The brush on formula, under the exact same conditions, always left a tacky surface. It also didn't level the same way. In fact, give it a little time and what was laying neatly with brush strokes on top of the guitar would part like the Red Sea. So if you never had this problem with the brush on topcoat I suspect some of the bottles that left their factory were no good.
You can't apply it over a stain without sealing the stain first. The stain gets lifted into the finish and blocks the UV light, preventing curing. You must use a sealer in very light coats to lock the stain in first.
I built a kit guitar this year in march, and used ICBINL. I'm in FL at sea level. The body woods were mahogany, and maple. It cured fine on those woods. Although, I used it as a sealer because I sprayed it with poly for a high gloss finish. It was quite good for that purpose. The neck was Ziricote, which was problematic with ICBINL. It does not seem to like very oily woods. I even bought a UV light at 385nm because I wasn't sure if the sunlight was inadequate on cloudy days. It was still super tacky, and I was able to wipe all clean with acetone. Even after exposing it to direct UV from a lamp. I decided to try Solarez Grain Filler and Sealer and it worked better on the Ziricote neck. Although the cure times were longer, it did in fact cure. Probably 20 minutes of exposure to natural sunlight, and an additional 10 minutes to the UV lamp. I did 3 coats of that product first then the ICBINL to another 3 times to get enough to level sand and applied 2 more coats of ICBINL and finally buffed and polished. And it looks decent and feels good to the hands when playing.(I don't like the feel of poly on necks. Its too sticky) If I ever reuse ziricote I'll try a different finish method that isn't solarez. I'm positive oily woods are problematic with this product.
I used this stuff worked just as you have described. Location: Chicago. Date: 12/12/2023. Time of day: 2:00 PM - 3:00 PM.
Been using this product for grain filling before spraying color and top coats for about a year.
I just built a neck through guitar and used ICBINL sealer/grain filler and gloss clear coat. I am on the east coast of Florida. More humidity than Colorado for sure. I applied my coats in an air conditioned space and then went outside only for curing. I have used Solarez products for many years on surfboard ding repair, but his was the first time on a guitar. As stated in one of your videos, when right after you cure it, it has an "tacky sort of feel", but when you hit it with sandpaper, it powders up. If I had to guess, the initial feel is what most are noticing.
I have applied this to one instrument after watching a few of your video recommending it. I'm in Australia and it was a little hard to get this product down here to start with but I figure we'd have plenty of UV to cure this stuff without issue.
I miss our sunny days lol. Feels like I've been living in the pacific northwest for the last 6 weeks or so here in Denver.
I had problems with Solarez laying flat, so I ended up having to put on a lot more coats than I originally thought.
I have used ICBINL filler and top coat for 3.5 years. I use it in my windowless basement shop. I cure with 4x 15W 385nm light bulbs installed in a 2’X2’X4’ plywood enclosure faced with shiny aluminum foil. I build ukuleles. In the enclosure I suspend the ukuleles from a vertically mounted barbecue rotisserie. A timer switch allows me to set the “bake” time. Experiments showed it cured the lacquer in 1.5 minutes but I typically zap for 15-20 minutes.