Well, I sure wish I had listened to your advice on watching this video before starting that little farmhouse coffee table! After cutting all of the pieces I started to get the top glued up and the boards were a little wonky. I packed up all my gear and grabbed a beer and I was gonna wait till I could go buy a planer to finish it all up. I didn't think of using pocket holes to even out the onebuhsixes! Now that I had a cold adult beverage the tools are ALL gonna have a restful night. Thanks, man, I really enjoy your videos. They are helpful, full of real world experience that you have learned by trial and error and you don't try to come off like you know everything about everything. God Bless you and yours.
Hi Matt, just wanted to say how much I've enjoyed your videos. I'm 52 and just started getting into wood working by necessity! House was in desperate need of renovating and simply can't afford to hire out that much work. I discovered that I love it, especially the smaller scale furniture builds. I'm running out of things for my own house but enjoy it so much I'm thinking about starting to build and sell some stuff. Vacation money, etc. You're channel and others like it have been invaluable! Admittedly I'm nervous about selling my work, with what little experience I have, but your content is helping me to get over that. Thanks for the inspiration and best of luck with your channel and all your future endeavors. Later Greg
I am glad the videos have helped. I still get nervous when I sell my furniture items too. I always worry about them holding up and being good enough. I think that is probably pretty common. I say go for it! If you like your items, and you get good feedback from family and friends about your work, you’ll do just fine! The hardest part is trying to find what price you want to sell each piece. that’s a lot of trial and error I have found. Sometimes you price it way too low for the amount of material and time you put into it. Just adjust it on the next piece. Good luck. Let me know if I can help
Thank you so much! I am following instructions for a DIY desk that says to build the top using a Kreg Jig but they didn't provide specifics. This really helped me work through it.
Sir, you have saved me. I was making a media cabinet for a turntable. The pocket hole screws were so close to the edge of the 2x4. But now I see that's ok. Thank you for the video.
This was exactly what I needed to know. S&L wanted a custom ironing board to fit a small area 20" x 47" and on a tight budget. This will allow me to use scrap and save. THANKS
I am really enjoying your channel. My first time making any wood top with pocket holes. I am using 1x6 wood as well. You explained the process perfectly. I actually feel confident going into my build tomorrow. Thanks for all of you videos on pocket holes. It is making me better and better all the time!
Thanks for putting out seemingly endless content, i've been binge watching. Inspired to make a small kitchen island for our townhouse to get some extra storage for those frequent but not daily use appliances. My table top came out kinda, whompy jawed lol I even made some Jerry rigged clamping cauls! Nothing I can't sand out but damn dude how do you get them so flat! I don't know what i'm doing wrong, but my best solution is to cut the boards into narrower strips and use the kreg flush clamp on every pocket hole. Anyway, keep up the awesome work brother. Much love from a correctional officer in northern Alberta Canada!
I've heard the wood can crack over time when joined by pocket hole screws if it is not dry enough and if the ambient humidity changes dramatically over the seasons. Some lumber needs to dry for months after it comes from the lumber yard before it can be made into a table top.
Most lumber from Lowe’s and HD are in the area of 20% wet. Kiln dried does help. What happens is when you take the wood inside to a different moisture level is where you run into problems. A lot of people will let the lumber dry inside somewhere like a shop or their attic. Sometimes you get better options if you go to a dedicated lumber yard or get lumber off Facebook from someone that has kiln dried rough cut. Also keep in mind that big box lumber comes from all over the US and then is shipped to different parts of the us where the humidity is different and also the time of the year. You could always pick up a moisture meter if you wanted. Don’t forget about wood movement as well. Better finish all sides of the table top to prevent as much movement as possible.
@@AngryMountainMan yep I put a few coats of poly on the bottom of a desktop I made this week for that exact reason -- I want the moisture exchange to be even all around
Pocket holes has nothing to do with it. Any lumber can crack if joined to other pieces then moisture levels change. If you notice Matt used glue on all his joints, so all the pocket holes are doing is acting like clamps. Once the glue dries it is no different than if you use glue and a ton of clamps. The pocket holes just make it easier to maintain alignment during the glue up and drying process. You can also work with the piece right away to make your final dimensions, trimming your corners, etc..
TIP ON THE KREG JIG: Do not use an impact driver to drill the pocket holes. It will bind up and destroy the adjustable collar on the Kreg drill bit and you will not be able to slide it up and down the shaft..unless you have a press to get it off. I have had much better luck using an "old school" corded drill for the drilling.
Thanks for the amazing video. I am planning to build a desktop table as my first wood project but all I have is a circular saw, drill and impact driver. I was wondering, if I use just the glue & pocket holes without squaring the edges, and later fill the gaps with a wood filler and sand it, would I be able to pull this off. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
Have you had any issues with wood movement after some time passes, using the pocket hold / glue method over other methods like biscuits? Would breadboard ends help with avoiding wood movement / cupping or anything similar?
The level moves with the board, thereby giving the board a straight edge to reference. If you just use the fence, the edge being cut is referencing the other side of the board. Which is typically never truly straight.
Have you ever experienced a wobbly table top after you put the pocket screws in? I don’t usually use wood glue and pocket holes, I don’t know if thats why or if my material needs a deeper pocket hole so the 1 1/4” go into the next board more. I set my jig and drill bit to the right depth tho so i dont get why it happens lol and i use 3/4 material
Great video. I want to make a small table top to fit into an alvoce in the wall. Was thinking of making it out of 1by Oak boards and using glue and kreg screws to join the boards. However i am worried it wont be strong enough since the table will have a significant amount of weight on it. Approximately 50-100lb
@@731Woodworks 59.5 inches wide and 32.5 inches deep. Which is an awkward space because its just a bit too big to use one of Home Depots precut 2' by 4' sheets unfortunately
@@731Woodworks not sure what you mean by floating shelf but i already have two steel brackets rated for over 1000lb screwed to the studs in the back wall. But the weight on the plywood would be sitting over a foot away from where the bracket support ends underneath the ply. So idk if this will cause the ply to bend and eventually break over time. Also there will be very expensive equiptment on the table so that is why i went for the really beefy brackets in the first place just for peace of mind
hey ive done this one two of my tabletops now, and they have both cupped...is there anyway todo this without cupping? and yes ive still flipped the boards opposite sides of each other
Nice video. What was your stop collar set to? I saw the jig set to 3/4", but the stop collar seemed pretty deep. I'm trying to attach a 3/4" plywood top to a 2x4 frame (2x4's on the 1 1/2" edge). I'm having hard time finding the right settings for screw, stop collar and jig. TIA
I know it’s been a while since you commented, so I’m assuming you either figured it out, or scrapped the project 😉😆 but for anyone who may read this and have the same question, the answer is to set all stops to the thickness of the SMALLER or lesser material depth because that’s the material in which the holes should be formed. So in this instance, 3/4” since you’re securing a 3/4” ply top to a frame with material depth of 1.5”.
I made a small end table about 17” wide with 3 boards. When I joined it together with pocket hole screws it caused some arching of the table top. Everything looked flat before screwing them together. Any thoughts?
The level moves with the board, thereby giving the board a straight edge to reference. If you just use the fence, the edge being cut is referencing the other side of the board. Which is typically never truly straight.
Matt, your videos and projects are great! Curious on this tabletop though. I don’t want to go through the trouble of making breadboard ends; however I understand their purpose. Have you experienced any cupping, or warping in the top, or boards coming apart? I was going to purchase a router to also act as a jointer to get the boards properly joined. I live in a climate that experiences extremes (hot humid summers, very cold dry winters), and want to make sure the tabletop can expand and contract without breadboard ends.
Look at the ends of your boards. Notice how the tree rings go. Alternate them up, down, up, down. That should help. Also, apply finish to both sides of the table top. You need to seal the underside or it will absorb moisture, making it expand and possibly crack. Lastly, you could attach boards going across the bottom of the table to keep them flat. Many farmhouse tables have them then the legs are attached to the sides of them. A router would help do many things. You could cut a groove in each board, then cut a thin piece of wood that fits snugly and glue it in. That is called a spline. You will probably see more cupping with thin boards than thick ones, Sealing the boards is important.
I did this last week for the first time. Went to go back to work on it the next day and found it cupped beyond repair. I did 2 more this week with bread board ends using a harbor freight Dowling jig and problem solved. It looks nicer and was really a breeze
Hi, thanks for this video! I am also making a table using 1x6s with a kreg pocket hole jig. I tried this one time already using the 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, and on some of the pocket holes, the screw came through the top of the table. What am I doing wrong? I want to make sure I do it correctly this next time around!
I have the harbor freight pocket hole jig which is obviously not as nice as the Kregg. my question is will the Craig pocket hole jig keep from having blowout when using 2x4 runners underneath a workbench table top? using the harbor freight model there's a lot of tear out. I know some of it is because of the grain direction, but it seems in looking at other videos when people do pocket holes along the side of a 2x4 they don't have the tear out that I'm having.
731 Woodworks I have a brand new Kregg bit. I was wondering if the design of the harbor freight PH jig was contributing to the tear out. I will do some further testing. Thank you for getting back with me.
woud this work even on chep materials? I have 2 12x48" shelves I wanted to put together as a DIY table top. I think they are only 5/8 think can i still use pocket holes? Thanks for always providing beginner tips..so helpful!!
Any reason why I would want to put pocket screws in both ways? In the video you put them all in one direction. Would there be a case where I might want some from board 1 into 2, and alternation 2 into 1?
Nice idea for jointing with the level. Like you said, need to move it with the board. I use a homemade straight line jig but your way looks easier. I find it easier to route the edges with the router base over the top instead of the end. Easier to control. You probably have the Kreg Foreman by now? BTW, down here in Louisiana we must feed our dogs better than yall. That poor greyhound looked mighty hungry - lol.
Ha ha. We have one greyhound that is overweight and one that is petite lol. I don't have the foreman. Just the K5 and R3. Not sure the foreman would be worth the expense for me at this point especially when I need other tools like a more powerful router, jointer, router table, the list goes on and on and never stops lol.
Hey, so I tried doing this and my boards started to warp making a concave at the center. I had the entire table top clamped on top and bottom as well as left and right during the pocket hole assembly. It only occurred shortly after assembly. And tips or advice as to why this happened?
Yeah, I think you are right. I went to Home Depot bought the straightest 2x4s I could find to try and build a 12ft wall to wall table. Didn't have a table saw to joint them so I just attempted to pocket screw them hoping the pocket screws would correct it. Any case thanks for your quick feedback! Subscribed!
Great video, we'll be making a table top using this method. I saw your little Italian Greyhound, what a cutie. I don't have a frozen leg but I did break my front right leg in 2018. It sucked. We're such delicate creatures. I really want to know more about your dog! haha
What’s the best stainable wood filler? I have some minor cracks in my table top that I think I should fill before I stain it but I want the filler to blend in
It will be very difficult, if not near impossible to get a wood filler to stain exactly the same color as the wood. This one is probably the best rated I have seen It might be worth trying it on a test piece before doing it on your table. www.amazon.com/FamoWood-40022126-Latex-Wood-Filler/dp/B001733MIG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=731woodworks-20&linkId=eccfcf48e0b06bd48c3d491939f6d062&language=en_US Affiliate link
matt, you have a great channel and i'm pretty sure i've watch every single video. so the table top i'm making, i used pocket holes and my connections are perfect with little to no gaps BUT there was a bow or a crown (not sure of the right word) in one of boards. i'm sure i can use my belt sander but it'll take a while. would this be an ideal time to use my 1 year old never opened electric hand planer? i appreciate any help.
Hello. Plywood will have the layered edge showing. If you don’t mind that, then you can use plywood. Or you can deal with the plywood edge either with edge banding or some type of trim like I did in my Desk with Drawers build a while back.
Mark White Plywood can be stronger, depending on the thickness and cross supports. Depending on the thickness, you might can buy an iron on laminate to cover the rough edges. If you don’t have the money or tools to do a 2x4 butcher block table, pocket hole joinery is an excellent and easy method.
Clamp either a long level or straight board to the board that is curved. Use your circular saw and run it along the ruler or straight board, cutting off a little of the curved board. . You may have to put a board under your saw so it doesn't want to fall off the edge you are cutting, and give you a bad cut. Before circular saws came along, and electricity, carpenters hand planes. See Rex Krueger. He's the hand plane guru. ruclips.net/channel/UCj4SLNED1DiNPHComZTCbzw
No I don’t. However if the table top itself is cupping or bowing as you put it together that means your board edges are not square. Did you joint the edges?
Ok. That’s what I do. Make sure you check the square of your blade to the table. A digital angle gauge works well for that. Amazon sells them. I can send you a link if you want.
@@papapsadventures6119 This one is highly rated on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Backlight-Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic/dp/B00WQLHG2G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=digital+angle+finder&qid=1580759823&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3TVVZSkRQVUsxQjUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5MDgyMDYzRzVGQkQ4UzlXSkw4JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODA5NTdYSTYxTURJSUlTWkomd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&linkCode=ll1&tag=731woodworks-20&linkId=151ed504058d8860c11296a02d5dd7b2&language=en_US affiliate link
731 Woodworks I did end up having a board that was “wonky” (my southern way of saying warped lol) and I cut it out and replaced it and the table top came out much better. Thanks for all your help!
I couldn’t, for the life of me, get the boards to stay lined up. I used 1x6 appearance board. Straight as an arrow. I used clamps on both sides of the pocket holes to keep the boards level, the second I drive in a screw it raises the board the screws going into. I had better success holding it by hand, and deliberately holding the second board lower so that the damn pocket screw would lift up the board once fastened. Idk what I’m doing wrong.
Are you using the $30 jig or the $150 jig? The one by hand will, if you dont clamp it down consistently (I usually just push it down and hold it by hand for quick projects) that will create the lift you are talking about. Assuming you have used the tablesaw to get clean sharp edges on both sides, how you are drilling the holes to join is probably what is causing that lift.
Maybe I'm over compensating, but when I put two jointed boards together, I pocket hole and screw both sides of the joint. The fact of the matter though is, when the glue dries, it is stronger than the screws, so the screws end up just being there to hold it together until the glue dries. They could be eliminated altogether by clamping in the X and Y axis. In other words clamp the boards together as normal. Then put boards on top of and under your glue up running at right angles. Clamp those together. They will keep your boards in alignment and flat. They are called "cauls".
I would recommend clamps. However you don’t “need” them if you use the kreg screws and glue but it’ll sure make your life easier. Check out harbor freight for some cheap clamps to get you started.
I wonder if you could get away without the clamps 🗜and just reply on the screws to draw the wood together ..coz if you were doing a bigger table your gonna need a few big sash clamps 😒
Check out my other pocket hole projects: ruclips.net/p/PLWVlC66wUw8ZllU7o9agPUaDcvTFQC65c
This video is worth the "level and table saw jointer" tip alone. Thank you!
Thank you. Glad it helped!
100% agree..I've seen a ton of wood working videos, and never seen that before. good stuff!
I don’t understand that part. If you’re using a fence, and the level is perpendicular to the fence. Then why not just use the fence?
Nice method of jointing the edges of the boards
Well, I sure wish I had listened to your advice on watching this video before starting that little farmhouse coffee table! After cutting all of the pieces I started to get the top glued up and the boards were a little wonky. I packed up all my gear and grabbed a beer and I was gonna wait till I could go buy a planer to finish it all up. I didn't think of using pocket holes to even out the onebuhsixes! Now that I had a cold adult beverage the tools are ALL gonna have a restful night. Thanks, man, I really enjoy your videos. They are helpful, full of real world experience that you have learned by trial and error and you don't try to come off like you know everything about everything. God Bless you and yours.
Hi Matt, just wanted to say how much I've enjoyed your videos. I'm 52 and just started getting into wood working by necessity! House was in desperate need of renovating and simply can't afford to hire out that much work. I discovered that I love it, especially the smaller scale furniture builds. I'm running out of things for my own house but enjoy it so much I'm thinking about starting to build and sell some stuff. Vacation money, etc. You're channel and others like it have been invaluable! Admittedly I'm nervous about selling my work, with what little experience I have, but your content is helping me to get over that. Thanks for the inspiration and best of luck with your channel and all your future endeavors.
Later
Greg
I am glad the videos have helped. I still get nervous when I sell my furniture items too. I always worry about them holding up and being good enough. I think that is probably pretty common. I say go for it! If you like your items, and you get good feedback from family and friends about your work, you’ll do just fine! The hardest part is trying to find what price you want to sell each piece. that’s a lot of trial and error I have found. Sometimes you price it way too low for the amount of material and time you put into it. Just adjust it on the next piece. Good luck. Let me know if I can help
This was exactly what I needed. I bought the $30 pocket hole jig with keg screws this weekend. Thank you!
glad it helped
Thank you so much! I am following instructions for a DIY desk that says to build the top using a Kreg Jig but they didn't provide specifics. This really helped me work through it.
👍🏻
I've been planning on joining two 12-inch wide boards and wasn't sure on the how, but I feel confident now that I saw the Kreg system help. Thanks
Kreg works great
You are one of the best on RUclips! I’m binge watching all your videos.. they are packed with lots of great tips!
Thank you
You are absolutely right Shannon. I have been around for 71 years, but I have been picking up things from Matt too.
Sir, you have saved me. I was making a media cabinet for a turntable. The pocket hole screws were so close to the edge of the 2x4. But now I see that's ok. Thank you for the video.
This was exactly what I needed to know. S&L wanted a custom ironing board to fit a small area 20" x 47" and on a tight budget. This will allow me to use scrap and save. THANKS
🙏That level trick to edge the boards will be handy👏 Thx👍
Good video and narration - i appreciate your pace and how you fast forward through the repetatuvw tasks
So far you are the best congratulations
Thank you for this, lots of tips that aren't found on other sites. Fingers crossed my table top will be fine. Using the Kreg K5 as well
Good luck.
I am really enjoying your channel. My first time making any wood top with pocket holes. I am using 1x6 wood as well. You explained the process perfectly. I actually feel confident going into my build tomorrow. Thanks for all of you videos on pocket holes. It is making me better and better all the time!
so how'd it go?
Hello from a fellow Arkansan-great video, good technique for a faster table top assembly... thanks.
👍🏻
this is a very easy to follow good beginner video. The way you narrate is very approachable. Thanks.
Thank you, I’m glad it helped
Thanks for putting out seemingly endless content, i've been binge watching. Inspired to make a small kitchen island for our townhouse to get some extra storage for those frequent but not daily use appliances. My table top came out kinda, whompy jawed lol I even made some Jerry rigged clamping cauls! Nothing I can't sand out but damn dude how do you get them so flat! I don't know what i'm doing wrong, but my best solution is to cut the boards into narrower strips and use the kreg flush clamp on every pocket hole.
Anyway, keep up the awesome work brother. Much love from a correctional officer in northern Alberta Canada!
Thank you , cuanto tiempo te esta durando esa mesa y no tiene problemas?
What a brilliant idea to joint boards.
Thanks, although I can't take credit for it. I saw it online :)
Thank you for all the beginner tips!!!!
Glad they help!
Beautiful job i wish I can do that
Thanks for the video, lots of useful information
You’re welcome. Glad you found it useful
Great information thanks
I've heard the wood can crack over time when joined by pocket hole screws if it is not dry enough and if the ambient humidity changes dramatically over the seasons. Some lumber needs to dry for months after it comes from the lumber yard before it can be made into a table top.
I haven’t had any issues
agree, heard its better to use glue
Most lumber from Lowe’s and HD are in the area of 20% wet. Kiln dried does help. What happens is when you take the wood inside to a different moisture level is where you run into problems. A lot of people will let the lumber dry inside somewhere like a shop or their attic. Sometimes you get better options if you go to a dedicated lumber yard or get lumber off Facebook from someone that has kiln dried rough cut. Also keep in mind that big box lumber comes from all over the US and then is shipped to different parts of the us where the humidity is different and also the time of the year. You could always pick up a moisture meter if you wanted. Don’t forget about wood movement as well. Better finish all sides of the table top to prevent as much movement as possible.
@@AngryMountainMan yep I put a few coats of poly on the bottom of a desktop I made this week for that exact reason -- I want the moisture exchange to be even all around
Pocket holes has nothing to do with it. Any lumber can crack if joined to other pieces then moisture levels change. If you notice Matt used glue on all his joints, so all the pocket holes are doing is acting like clamps. Once the glue dries it is no different than if you use glue and a ton of clamps. The pocket holes just make it easier to maintain alignment during the glue up and drying process. You can also work with the piece right away to make your final dimensions, trimming your corners, etc..
I wish the video for the work was at regular speed. It’s so helpful for me to be able to see the work in real time! Thank you!!
Thank you
TIP ON THE KREG JIG: Do not use an impact driver to drill the pocket holes. It will bind up and destroy the adjustable collar on the Kreg drill bit and you will not be able to slide it up and down the shaft..unless you have a press to get it off. I have had much better luck using an "old school" corded drill for the drilling.
Good tip. Thanks
Had the exact same thing happen to me.
Did you mean don’t use the impact drill to drive the screws? No one should use an impact driver to do any kind of drilling.
Thanks for the amazing video. I am planning to build a desktop table as my first wood project but all I have is a circular saw, drill and impact driver. I was wondering, if I use just the glue & pocket holes without squaring the edges, and later fill the gaps with a wood filler and sand it, would I be able to pull this off. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks for that. Good job. Subscribing especially to hear more of that fabulous Southern accent 👍🏻🇺🇸
Thanks!
Awesome! Thank you sir! Great video!
Thank you! Glad you liked it.
Have you had any issues with wood movement after some time passes, using the pocket hold / glue method over other methods like biscuits? Would breadboard ends help with avoiding wood movement / cupping or anything similar?
I haven’t had any issues with any of my builds.
@@731Woodworks thanks, new subscriber, love your videos!
Great video! Thanks for posting. New subscriber. Can you tell me why you used the level as opposed to the fence itself? Thanks!
The level moves with the board, thereby giving the board a straight edge to reference. If you just use the fence, the edge being cut is referencing the other side of the board. Which is typically never truly straight.
Have you ever experienced a wobbly table top after you put the pocket screws in? I don’t usually use wood glue and pocket holes, I don’t know if thats why or if my material needs a deeper pocket hole so the 1 1/4” go into the next board more. I set my jig and drill bit to the right depth tho so i dont get why it happens lol and i use 3/4 material
I set the stop collar on the drill bit so the hole is about 1/8” to 3/16” shallower than is recommended
@@731Woodworks ok I’ll give that a try 👍🏼 thanks!
Wondering if I could use the router to get the same edge results as you did with the table saw?
Thanks
Thank you
Great video. I want to make a small table top to fit into an alvoce in the wall. Was thinking of making it out of 1by Oak boards and using glue and kreg screws to join the boards. However i am worried it wont be strong enough since the table will have a significant amount of weight on it. Approximately 50-100lb
It depends on the spance if the top.if it is a large area then that might be an issue.
@@731Woodworks 59.5 inches wide and 32.5 inches deep. Which is an awkward space because its just a bit too big to use one of Home Depots precut 2' by 4' sheets unfortunately
What about creating a floating shelf type system that attaches to the wall. Use 3/4” plywood as your table top and trim it out to hide the ply edge?
@@731Woodworks not sure what you mean by floating shelf but i already have two steel brackets rated for over 1000lb screwed to the studs in the back wall. But the weight on the plywood would be sitting over a foot away from where the bracket support ends underneath the ply. So idk if this will cause the ply to bend and eventually break over time. Also there will be very expensive equiptment on the table so that is why i went for the really beefy brackets in the first place just for peace of mind
Check this video out, it may give you some ideas
ruclips.net/video/BpS_MEHfgac/видео.html
hey ive done this one two of my tabletops now, and they have both cupped...is there anyway todo this without cupping? and yes ive still flipped the boards opposite sides of each other
Nice video. What was your stop collar set to? I saw the jig set to 3/4", but the stop collar seemed pretty deep.
I'm trying to attach a 3/4" plywood top to a 2x4 frame (2x4's on the 1 1/2" edge). I'm having hard time finding the right settings for screw, stop collar and jig. TIA
I know it’s been a while since you commented, so I’m assuming you either figured it out, or scrapped the project 😉😆 but for anyone who may read this and have the same question, the answer is to set all stops to the thickness of the SMALLER or lesser material depth because that’s the material in which the holes should be formed. So in this instance, 3/4” since you’re securing a 3/4” ply top to a frame with material depth of 1.5”.
First time user pocket hole jig I’m making a table top with 5/4 pine. What size screws should I use for the Greg pocket hole jig
What would you space the screws out if say you wanted to build a cabinet like top that would be used like a bench to sit on
What’s that jointer trick with the level everyone keeps talking about? I don’t understand it.
I made a small end table about 17” wide with 3 boards. When I joined it together with pocket hole screws it caused some arching of the table top. Everything looked flat before screwing them together. Any thoughts?
Can you use other flat head screws nut kregs?
great videos!!! new to wood work - Question why do you use a level to get a straight cut isn't that what the fence is for?
Question why do you use a level to get a straight cut isn't that what the fence is for?
The level moves with the board, thereby giving the board a straight edge to reference. If you just use the fence, the edge being cut is referencing the other side of the board. Which is typically never truly straight.
Great video! What is the species of wood? Is this just pine?
Thanks. It’s spruce
Can you use this method with treated wood for an outdoor table? Or what would you recommend for an outdoor table top? Thanks
Cedar, redwood, cypress would be better for outdoors. Yes you can use this method
Matt, your videos and projects are great! Curious on this tabletop though. I don’t want to go through the trouble of making breadboard ends; however I understand their purpose. Have you experienced any cupping, or warping in the top, or boards coming apart? I was going to purchase a router to also act as a jointer to get the boards properly joined. I live in a climate that experiences extremes (hot humid summers, very cold dry winters), and want to make sure the tabletop can expand and contract without breadboard ends.
I haven’t had any issues with bowing/cupping.
Look at the ends of your boards. Notice how the tree rings go. Alternate them up, down, up, down. That should help. Also, apply finish to both sides of the table top. You need to seal the underside or it will absorb moisture, making it expand and possibly crack. Lastly, you could attach boards going across the bottom of the table to keep them flat. Many farmhouse tables have them then the legs are attached to the sides of them. A router would help do many things. You could cut a groove in each board, then cut a thin piece of wood that fits snugly and glue it in. That is called a spline. You will probably see more cupping with thin boards than thick ones, Sealing the boards is important.
I did this last week for the first time. Went to go back to work on it the next day and found it cupped beyond repair. I did 2 more this week with bread board ends using a harbor freight Dowling jig and problem solved. It looks nicer and was really a breeze
Hi, thanks for this video! I am also making a table using 1x6s with a kreg pocket hole jig. I tried this one time already using the 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, and on some of the pocket holes, the screw came through the top of the table. What am I doing wrong? I want to make sure I do it correctly this next time around!
I have the harbor freight pocket hole jig which is obviously not as nice as the Kregg. my question is will the Craig pocket hole jig keep from having blowout when using 2x4 runners underneath a workbench table top? using the harbor freight model there's a lot of tear out. I know some of it is because of the grain direction, but it seems in looking at other videos when people do pocket holes along the side of a 2x4 they don't have the tear out that I'm having.
It may be the sharpness of the drill bit. When my Kreg drill bit gets dull, I see some tear out myself
731 Woodworks I have a brand new Kregg bit. I was wondering if the design of the harbor freight PH jig was contributing to the tear out. I will do some further testing. Thank you for getting back with me.
woud this work even on chep materials? I have 2 12x48" shelves I wanted to put together as a DIY table top. I think they are only 5/8 think can i still use pocket holes? Thanks for always providing beginner tips..so helpful!!
If it is MDF (particle board), I'm not sure if it would work or not? Sorry.
Any reason why I would want to put pocket screws in both ways? In the video you put them all in one direction. Would there be a case where I might want some from board 1 into 2, and alternation 2 into 1?
troiano27 you could do that, but there’s no need to. It’s plenty strong all going one way
Nice idea for jointing with the level. Like you said, need to move it with the board. I use a homemade straight line jig but your way looks easier. I find it easier to route the edges with the router base over the top instead of the end. Easier to control. You probably have the Kreg Foreman by now? BTW, down here in Louisiana we must feed our dogs better than yall. That poor greyhound looked mighty hungry - lol.
Ha ha. We have one greyhound that is overweight and one that is petite lol. I don't have the foreman. Just the K5 and R3. Not sure the foreman would be worth the expense for me at this point especially when I need other tools like a more powerful router, jointer, router table, the list goes on and on and never stops lol.
I am looking to build a l shaped desk - can I pocket hole connect the 2 pieces of birchwood plywood? (Stacked 2 pieces for additional thickness)
Stacked? I don’t think if they are stacked
@@731Woodworks hmmm....again I am new to woodworking. Wondering how I can get this to work. Thanks for the fast reply btw
@@731Woodworks Might have to use a biscuit joiner...still researching :)
Have you done this yet? If not, you can look into dowels if you haven't. Very strong.
Any long term problems with cracks or warping due to seasonal movement?
I haven’t had any issues with any of my projects.
How sturdy is the table top using the pocket holes? I've heard they crack over time because of expansion.
This was/is a desk for my wife. She's still using it with no issues.
@@731Woodworks awesome! Thank you. I'm planning a new table right now and I've never done a top before. Thanks for the good videos!
No RUclips diy video is complete without a dog walking through the background lol love the level trick!
lol thank you
Did this project require a planer?
no it didn't.
Hey, so I tried doing this and my boards started to warp making a concave at the center. I had the entire table top clamped on top and bottom as well as left and right during the pocket hole assembly. It only occurred shortly after assembly. And tips or advice as to why this happened?
Mark Karman typically this happens if the boards were warped to begin with. Or the edges are not square and even.
Yeah, I think you are right. I went to Home Depot bought the straightest 2x4s I could find to try and build a 12ft wall to wall table. Didn't have a table saw to joint them so I just attempted to pocket screw them hoping the pocket screws would correct it. Any case thanks for your quick feedback! Subscribed!
Mark Karman yeah that’ll be tough to get flat using boards that long that aren’t jointed. Thanks for the sub
731 Woodworks this happened to me too,should I remove the screws so the boards have room to move?
If you remove the screws, the top will fall apart, correct?
I'm having difficulties getting straight rips on my table saw. Could be because it's a cheap HF table saw. I'm gonna try the level trick!
I had an old cheap saw when I started out. It is very difficult to get a straight cut if the fence is not true.
Great video, we'll be making a table top using this method. I saw your little Italian Greyhound, what a cutie. I don't have a frozen leg but I did break my front right leg in 2018. It sucked. We're such delicate creatures. I really want to know more about your dog! haha
Pretty good that she's not afraid of the power tools. Loud noises scare a lot of iggies
Nice
Thank you
What’s the best stainable wood filler? I have some minor cracks in my table top that I think I should fill before I stain it but I want the filler to blend in
It will be very difficult, if not near impossible to get a wood filler to stain exactly the same color as the wood. This one is probably the best rated I have seen It might be worth trying it on a test piece before doing it on your table. www.amazon.com/FamoWood-40022126-Latex-Wood-Filler/dp/B001733MIG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=731woodworks-20&linkId=eccfcf48e0b06bd48c3d491939f6d062&language=en_US Affiliate link
matt, you have a great channel and i'm pretty sure i've watch every single video. so the table top i'm making, i used pocket holes and my connections are perfect with little to no gaps BUT there was a bow or a crown (not sure of the right word) in one of boards. i'm sure i can use my belt sander but it'll take a while. would this be an ideal time to use my 1 year old never opened electric hand planer? i appreciate any help.
I’ve never had any luck with my hand planer. Makes more of a mess than fixes lol. You might have better luck
@@731Woodworks if wouldn’t use the hand planer. What would you use?
emailed you another one? LOL. Love yah brotha
Hi I'm a beginner. What's the advantage of doing it this way over a sheet of plywood?
Hello. Plywood will have the layered edge showing. If you don’t mind that, then you can use plywood. Or you can deal with the plywood edge either with edge banding or some type of trim like I did in my Desk with Drawers build a while back.
Mark White Plywood can be stronger, depending on the thickness and cross supports. Depending on the thickness, you might can buy an iron on laminate to cover the rough edges. If you don’t have the money or tools to do a 2x4 butcher block table, pocket hole joinery is an excellent and easy method.
Don't have access to a table saw just yet, any recommendations to join the board?, is there a cheaper alternative to a table saw?
I’ve seen people use a circular saw to joint the edges. Should be able to search for it on RUclips “jointing with a circular saw”
Clamp either a long level or straight board to the board that is curved. Use your circular saw and run it along the ruler or straight board, cutting off a little of the curved board. . You may have to put a board under your saw so it doesn't want to fall off the edge you are cutting, and give you a bad cut. Before circular saws came along, and electricity, carpenters hand planes. See Rex Krueger. He's the hand plane guru. ruclips.net/channel/UCj4SLNED1DiNPHComZTCbzw
Do you have problems with it wanting to cup?
No I don’t. However if the table top itself is cupping or bowing as you put it together that means your board edges are not square. Did you joint the edges?
Don't have a jointer so I just used my table saw
Ok. That’s what I do. Make sure you check the square of your blade to the table. A digital angle gauge works well for that. Amazon sells them. I can send you a link if you want.
@@731Woodworks sure you can send the info. Thanks
@@papapsadventures6119 This one is highly rated on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Backlight-Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic/dp/B00WQLHG2G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=digital+angle+finder&qid=1580759823&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3TVVZSkRQVUsxQjUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5MDgyMDYzRzVGQkQ4UzlXSkw4JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODA5NTdYSTYxTURJSUlTWkomd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&linkCode=ll1&tag=731woodworks-20&linkId=151ed504058d8860c11296a02d5dd7b2&language=en_US affiliate link
I make a lot of saw dust so instead of buying plugs for my pocket holes I mix glue with my saw dust, fill the holes, sand and finish.
Is there a reason you didn’t mention 1x12 or 2x12 for a table top? More chances of warping???
they have a tendency to cup a lot more.
This is a great process, but I found out it doesn't do well if your level is magnetic!
I'm just confused about how Kreg emailed you a new vise. Nice video! 😄
Any tips on stopping knot bleed through on light colored paints? I've tried just about everything and nothing has worked.
I use Sherwin Williams stain blocking primer. It has worked well for me.
731 Woodworks I was using the extreme cover 2 in 1 and it still had bleed through. Which one are you using?
This is the one I’m using. www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/quick-dry-interiorexterior-stain-blocking-primer
731 Woodworks ok, I'll give that one a shot. Thx man!
You're welcome. Let me know if it works for you.
What table saw is that? It looks pretty legit
It’s a Delta 36-725. I did a review here: ruclips.net/video/hgBDKAGzhaU/видео.html
My K5 vice broke as well. The indents stripped out.
do you have a video showing how to complete your table.
Yes, several on the channel
I have tried this method a few times now and my table tops always seem to come out with a wobble. Any advice?
The edges of the boards that join together need to be square
731 Woodworks I jointed the 2x6 boards with a table saw but I have still not been able to get a flat table top in the end.
Were the boards warped?
731 Woodworks I did end up having a board that was “wonky” (my southern way of saying warped lol) and I cut it out and replaced it and the table top came out much better. Thanks for all your help!
Good to hear
I couldn’t, for the life of me, get the boards to stay lined up. I used 1x6 appearance board. Straight as an arrow. I used clamps on both sides of the pocket holes to keep the boards level, the second I drive in a screw it raises the board the screws going into. I had better success holding it by hand, and deliberately holding the second board lower so that the damn pocket screw would lift up the board once fastened. Idk what I’m doing wrong.
Are you using the $30 jig or the $150 jig? The one by hand will, if you dont clamp it down consistently (I usually just push it down and hold it by hand for quick projects) that will create the lift you are talking about. Assuming you have used the tablesaw to get clean sharp edges on both sides, how you are drilling the holes to join is probably what is causing that lift.
Corbett Brasington I’m using the k4.
So the last board doesn’t have pocket holes?
That’s correct. No need for them on that board.
Nice video minus no explainaton of how to use the kreg jig
4:06 ouch.
Maybe I'm over compensating, but when I put two jointed boards together, I pocket hole and screw both sides of the joint. The fact of the matter though is, when the glue dries, it is stronger than the screws, so the screws end up just being there to hold it together until the glue dries. They could be eliminated altogether by clamping in the X and Y axis. In other words clamp the boards together as normal. Then put boards on top of and under your glue up running at right angles. Clamp those together. They will keep your boards in alignment and flat. They are called "cauls".
That's right. That glue is very strong!
Cool vid man - Even cooler that kreg has a way to “email” vice grips. 😂
lol
Tuba four, tuba six
Yes sir! 👊🏻👍🏻
I’d prefer to if it was me to use tuba sixes for the table I want to build. That’s just me lol 😄
5:30 He is so focused on building this tabletop that he forgot to feed the dog... This poor dog is looking for food...😀
If they can email you a part they should have the cure for coronavirus. Talking about futuristic technology.
I'm confused
lol oh ok.
So you caught that too? I had a nice chuckle after hearing it and thinking he probably doesn't even realize he said it.
So I got me the kreg jig mini kit and wood glue if I jig it do I still need clamps to make a table top. First time building anything besides legos😂
I have clamps to hold the jig in place just not to hold my 36 inch table top while the glue dries
I would recommend clamps. However you don’t “need” them if you use the kreg screws and glue but it’ll sure make your life easier. Check out harbor freight for some cheap clamps to get you started.
Way to go follow arkansain
Hello neighbor
Dude, what's up woth your dog, and its leg?!?!
She was born that way. Her knee doesn’t bend. It’s called a frozen leg.
Kreg: "Let's just send him a new vise for free since he spends big bucks to buy our screws for every project."
I wish. They’ve never sent me anything I didn’t buy
I wonder if you could get away without the clamps 🗜and just reply on the screws to draw the wood together ..coz if you were doing a bigger table your gonna need a few big sash clamps 😒
Mortise & Tenon is 3 to 4 times as strong as pocket hole screws, why would you waste your time with pocket hole screws?!??
It's fast and very approachable for beginners.
Too fast.
🤷🏻♂️
Get rid of that Thin Blue Line bullshit.
lol, No.
Is your dog hurt?
She was born that way, explained here ruclips.net/video/99kXR6WQw1U/видео.html