How to level the bed with the Snapmaker 3D Printer (perfect first layer)
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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Almost every day I see questions about how to level the bed or how to get prints to stick with the Snapmaker. A lot of people recommend glue or hairspray or some other concoction, but I've never felt a need to do any of that.
As I had to relevel my bed after installing the Z Axis extension arm recently, I decided to make a video about how I level the bed on my Snapmaker. It's a process that I only need to do once every few months - usually as the result of a firmware update.
For me, it's just become a "set it and forget it" kind of a thing.
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I would like to see your efforts with SM2 bed leveling.
I hope I get to try soon. I see a lot of questions about it every day on Facebook!
I’m waiting for my SnapMaker 350 and the enclosure. I’d love all the vlogs you’d like to make on these printers.
I'm still waiting for mine to arrive. Expected it ages ago. :(
John Aldred I just got my email last week that it’s shipping shortly. Expected it in May. So much planned for it.
I just built my SM-350 and it’s enclosure it went together really nice and easy . This is my first 3D printer so I would like to see you do a video on leveling the SM-350 Please !
Great to hear. I'll see what I can do. :)
Hi John. Just recently discovered your SM.1 videos and enjoy them very much. I purchased the SM.1 myself about a year ago. Not into it as a hobby but rather as a tool to make custom parts. I always used glue on the plate as I found it always worked, however it does destroy the bed sticker after a while. I did try earlier adjusting the temperatures of the initial layer but never thought about lowering the speed . I'll have to try that. I'm looking forward to seeing your videos using the laser and cnc. I made some cork coasters with photos of my grandkids, and also personalized my leather phone case with the laser. All turned out great.
I can't wait to see your teleprompter! Looks like an interesting project....
Hey, thanks, Rugglez. It's been weird getting used to it. I used it to shoot this video (and a couple of others I'm working on) and watching it back I can tell where either I was struggling to keep up with it it or I was getting ahead of it, lol. But I think I'm getting better now I've had a bit more practice. It's definitely useful, and shaves hours off my shooting & editing workflow. And I don't have to do 15 takes of every sentence anymore. ;)
Thank you, John - this is super useful. Especially appreciate that you explained the reason WHY we try the different solutions. Great stuff - will DEFINITELY watch for a similar video for the SM2!
Thanks, Aaron! Yeah, I always felt it was important for people to understand the why and what actually caused the problems. A lot of it's difficult to get over in just a Facebook comment, too, which makes it tough for folks who are learning or still having problems.
Thank you for the great info! I just purchased the Snapmaker Original and have the A350 on order. These videos help tremendously!
You are welcome, I'm happy it helped. :)
I have the snapmaker and yes I have problems with prints sticking I can only really use a raft print is the only one that works every time but then you are adding a load of time to the print. Will give your calibration a try thanks for the vid
I try to avoid rafts wherever possible. I've tried them in the past a few times, but usually they just end up creating a terrible underside on the print for me. So, it forces me to look a little harder at other possible causes of prints not sticking. Best of luck levelling, hope the video helps! :)
Neat video, thanks for re-affirming what I (eventually found out) how to do. I did notice that you have replaced the small rubber feat where the build-plate connects with what looks like washers. I'm guessing this is a rather important step, as (or at least I have experienced) head changes in the environment will slightly harden/soften the rummer leading to loosen or tighten those screws, making the bead slightly less level.
I'm not sure what you mean with swapping out rubber feet for washers. My Snapmaker is essentially the stock system as it came out of the box a little under a year ago, except for the Z-Axis extension and a filament guide I printed for the top. The only rubber feet I have are the ones underneath the main printer base. Maybe they tweaked the design slightly after it had been out for a while?
The environment definitely changes things, though, you're right. I tend I find I have to set my bed about 5-10°C warmer at this time of year (it's cold here in Scotland right now) vs the rest of the year. Normally I'm at 50°C, but at the moment I'm printing everything with a 60°C bed.
@@JohnAldred Interesting, I guess they changed the design at some point, around 0:56 when showing the underside it looks (to me at least) like there are metal washers of some form, mine looks more like the one shown in this url (if it works). But I guess both work. d3roxcpq5tricw.cloudfront.net/optimized/2X/8/8392be94a5054ffb25e039db7eeee41bfc61751b_1_375x500.jpeg
I am having trouble leveling my Snap Maker 1.0 bed and calibration has been damaging the bed. I will try your tips and let you know!!! Thanks for this info!
Good luck, Isaak!
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Excellent explanation. Thank you very much!
You're very welcome, hope it helped! :)
Hi John, Could you make a video on "How to level the bed with the Snapmaker 2.0 3D Printer (perfect first layer)"
Funny you should ask! I've wanted to do one for ages, but haven't needed to re-level the bed on the Snapmaker 2 since I set it up in October. I'm about to swap out the hot end on the Snapmaker 2, though, so I'll need to re-level it after I do that and will definitely be doing a video going over both the automated and manual calibration stuff once I've experimented with them both properly.
off course we would like to see your experiecne with snapmaker 2.0!!!! :-)
As soon as I receive one and I've gone through the process, it'll be at the top of my list. :)
Your video explained how to correct problems with the print not sticking to the bed. What about when the print won’t come off after the print completes? Does that indicate the nozzle is too close to the bed? Too hot? Or do I need some material on the bed?
That's a tricky one. Sometimes they're just really difficult to take off, depending on the shape and size of the print and how much space it takes up on the bed, especially if it's only just finished printing. Taller models that don't have a large footprint come off quite easily. Short ones that cover most of the bed are a little more challenging. Usually, if I'm struggling, I wait for it to cool (the aluminium bed and the plastic shrink at different rates as they cool and it releases parts of the base as it does so) and then I push a scraper under one corner to raise that up and it pops right off.
My x axis is uneven, the x tower has a trouble in that the holes for the screws on the back to hold it to the z axis are not drilled correctly. If you connect the x to z and use a level the bubble goes to the right about 4mm and there is not way to change the x axis, what should I do?
That's a little odd. I'm not entirely sure. I'd start by posting photos of what you've got in one of the Snapmaker groups on Facebook to see if there's actually a fault with your parts and they've been manufactured badly, or if things just aren't connected right for whatever other reason. If there are issues with the components, that's something you'd have to take up with Snapmaker or the seller you purchased from.
Do you have problems getting prints to stick to your bed?
YES!
@@mediagroupr Not anymore since I use the ZiFlex build platform and a similar process as outlined by the video on my Snapmaker with PLA filament) (sliced with Simplify3D). I use the "paper method" and adjust the extruder height so that I can hardly "pull the paper" anymore. The ZiFlex as the name says is a little flexible (for easier removal): yet this property seems to also be very beneficial for printing the first layer "a little harder down". No more problems with my prints sticking using ZiFlex.
@@papa4narchia PEI, that's the answer. Without it nothing works.
Thanks for this helpful video. II have a Snapmaker 2 A350 so I would like to see your process for this one. I have another question. I use a raft to print PLA objects that have only small contact points. The PLA raft comes off the print plate with great difficulty and often there is a residual layer left that takes a lot of scraping to remove. I believe this is not right, but I am not sure what I am doing wrong?
You shouldn't need to use a raft for small objects, just a brim should work. But if it's levelled properly, the brim should come off as cleanly as the print itself. You might need to use the scraper to help peel it up initially and get underneath it, but it should come off quite easily if it's levelled right. :)
Please show me how SM2 bed leveing would work... mine worked for a few days and now is a complete mess and not working at all...
I would, but I still haven't received one, so I'm currently unable to. I have no idea when or if it will ever actually show up now.
@@JohnAldred that would be greatly appreciated if you do... I am new to 3d printer... The automatic calibration right now seems more like a problems now, I can't find a way to bypass it and it's messing up the printer bed.... Thanks in advance!
Yeah, I've seen a lot of people posting about the auto calibration. I wish I had one here to try to figure it out :(
just curious if you have code settings for the snapmaker original for cura. i believe i found the start and end gcode but i haven't found the extruder start and end gcode.
I can export them out and pop them on Github - I'll try to do that this week if I get a chance. You shouldn't need anything in the start & end code on the extruder tab, though, just on the main printer settings bit. :)
@@JohnAldred that would be great thank you for the reply. every time i create gcode in cura and try to print it on the snapmaker it is showing the target nozzle temp is 0.
I haven't had a chance to get to this yet (it's been a mad couple of weeks), but I haven't forgotten! I will try to get to it as soon as I can. :)
Nothing is working :(