I've managed to get you guys a permanent 5% discount code on Eryone filament. Just use code "johnaldred" on checkout from the Eryone store (ships from the same local warehouses as Amazon). - Eryone Orange PLA - bit.ly/eryonestandardpla - Eryone Silk PLA - bit.ly/eryonesilkpla
3:30 an interesting and good point about large 3D printers. The long print times catch a lot of people by surprise and if there is an error or failure, that could be a lot of plastic wasted.
Fortunately I don't get too many failures with my printers, but yeah, I think most people drastically underestimate how much more filament they'll go through when they start printing bigger. :)
That's some serious bit of kit you've got there ~ Can't believe how tiny it is as well, really good desktop setup. You need to make more 3D printing content on your channel. ~~~~~I'm also equally mega jealous of your camera gear storage solution in the background ahahaha
Haha, it's mostly electronic components storage, but I do store my spare memory cards, batteries and other small photography bits on there. I plan to do some more 3D printing videos in the new year, but want to try to keep them related to photo and video projects. Have a couple of cool ones planned when the Snapmaker 2 arrives. :)
Glad it helped! It's definitely handy to have a smaller printer around. Most of the stuff I print isn't that huge, so I tend to use my smaller ones the most.
Also the portability aspect of the SM1 is nothing to shrug at. You can tote it to and from events and houses with one hand and the all metal body ensures no warping or major adjustments needed to and fro!
That's a very good point. That wasn't something I had considered, as I don't tend to take mine to other places, haha. But yeah, Even with the Z extension module, it's easy to transport.
2:30 thankfully most modern printers take about 5-10 min to heat their print bed to 60C for PLA rather than 30min which is fairly similar if not faster than the snapmaker 2. Also, a smaller size doesn't necessarily mean faster heating. I have several Cetus Mk II's that will take over 10 min to heat to barely 55C and that is because the bed wattage and power brick are very very small for even the small bed area.
On my other printers, I'm usually around 70-75C for the bed (because they print PETG). They heat relatively quickly considering they're aluminium and only 12v (those printers came with PCB beds that would get up to temp in a couple of minutes, but they weren't very safe), but they're also only 220x220 build plates. You're right that there are other variables than just the size (bed material, voltage, circuit layout & resistance, current, etc), but I was making an "all else being equal" argument. :)
@@JohnAldred thanks for the reply! And ah, that is all very fair, one of my printers is an Anet A8 same type of bed so I can relate, road safety be prepared to be ignored. Thanks for not snapping at me! XD
I keep seeing targeted ads for the snapmaker 2.0, and so I came here to watch your video. I have never owned a 3D printer before and am looking to buy my very first one. The snapmaker would be awesome because it also has the lasers and I'd love to also carve/engrave/cut... but as a total beginner, would you recommend it? Or would you recommend starting with something smaller/simpler and working my way up? If so, do you have a suggestion for a 3D printer that prints sturdy + detailed, but isn't SUPER expensive? (the snapmaker is a bit pricey for me). Thank you!
If the size limits of the original Snapmaker fit within your requirements, then it's definitely an option I'd recommend. The new Snapmaker 2 models are fantastic, too (I have the A350 and it's been printing non-stop for about 2 months now producing amazing prints). But if it's just for 3D printing and you want to be as low budget as possible, then I'd probably take a look at the Creality Ender 3. It's not a perfect printer, and you might need to slow the print speed down a bit to get the best quality results from it but for what it costs, it's a decent printer and there's a good community out there for it. Obviously there's no CNC with the Ender 3 (the frame wouldn't be strong enough). You can attach a laser to it, but it's not as simple as just swapping out a head like it is with the Snapmakers. You'd have to buy a laser module and go the DIY route to attach and control it - which is easier said than done. And by the time you've gone through the hassle and expense of doing that, it would probably be easier to pick up a dedicated laser engraver or the Snapmaker.
Perhaps in the same way that you can dig a hole with a spoon. Can you technically dig a hole with a spoon? Yes. Would you want to dig an Olympic sized swimming pool with one? Absolutely not. Even with soft metals like aluminium or brass, this wouldn't be the best choice if cutting metal is your primary purpose.
Dude, I have 3 large printers and none of them take days to print anything. I just printed an object 10” x 8” x 4” in 7 hours and it has pretty significant detail. Speed is at 60mm, later height 0.2. Shell walls 2. And it looks fabulous and very sturdy. If your prints are taking days, up to 7 you said, then you might out to delve into your settings and adjust that. Neat machine though; however, it sounds incredibly slow.
I've only done basic tests with them, but they work quite well. Worth is a personal thing, though, depending on your needs. If you want to work with huge pieces or cut or engrave metal, there are going to be better options out there. But if the materials you wish to use are relatively soft (wood, vinyl, etc) and the size limitations aren't an issue, it's a great option.
Great review. Is the laser engraver strong enough to cut stippling into Glock's polymer frames? And is the cnc carver strong enough to cut serial numbers into alloys like aluminum billet?
I have absolutely no idea, to be honest. We don't have access to too many Glocks in the UK, so haven't tried. I would expect the CNC should work for engraving serial numbers into aluminium with the right bit - I don't know if the supplied one would do it, but there are plenty of others out there on eBay and Amazon. :)
Great video - thank you! It seems like some of the drawback of the larger 2.0 could be addressed if it allowed you to swap the larger bed for the smaller one for smaller jobs (with the software recognizing that of course). Do you think the Snapmaker folks would sell the smaller bed on its own and provide that capability? I ask because I know you’ve actually talk to them before.
I would suspect that they probably wouldn't do this, mostly because they'd have to make a whole new firmware for each of the three Snapmaker 2 printer sizes to accommodate the smaller bed, and if people end up using the wrong one (especially with the laser or CNC mill) it could potentially spell disaster. I think they might consider selling somebody a bed from the original Snapmaker if they contacted them directly, with the buyer assuming all the risk if something went wrong, but I don't think they'd offer it as a kit for general sale.
I wonder tho if bed size is something the software could detect and thus the software could make selecting the wrong one impossible/select the right one automatically for you. It claims to be modular and that would be quite a plus for the larger one based on your video. Your point is well taken tho. Thanks again - I’m just learning and your videos have helped a lot.
Hey John, question, do you've any tips to use the cnc toolhead a bit better? The only thing I'm able of is to engrave simple things, but not the Gcode stuff like photo's or exotic stuff like tribal things.. I use Freecad here (trying to master it). I've lot of wood here since I made a new fence.. :D
I've not really done much with the CNC. Now that it's warming up a bit outside, though, I am going to be setting it up in the garage, where it doesn't matter if it gets a bit sawdusty, to have more of a play with the CNC and I definitely plan to do some videos on it. :)
@@JohnAldred Do you know if there's something like a Gcode database of CNC works I can use/copy for the Snapmaker? Or are the codes too unique per situation?
I think they're going to be pretty unique to the situation, but it's something I'm actively researching at the moment to get some content out about it soon.
I see no price when I check Amazon possibly cause I'm in Canada but would it make more sense just to use the z axis extension on all 3 axises to increase the total scale and just add a new buildplate in terms of pricing?
A lot of prices seem to have disappeared on Amazon lately as stock in their warehouses seems to have diminished (they're refusing non-medical/essential stuff at the moment). I have heard of a couple of people using the Z-Axis extensions on more than just the Z-Axis, but I haven't tried it myself. At that point, though, it might be worth going up to something like the Snapmaker 2 A250 instead for a similar size (especially with the current pre-order discounts). You would be waiting a little while for it, though, as they're still getting caught up.
hmm. you haven't heard about the prusa mk3 and mini? which other printers do you have? We have a snapmaker at our makerspace. Doesn't get too much love I'm afraid. (just stumbled here while searching for snapmaker2)
Yeah, I've been going away from the i3 style printers (getting bits ready to build a Core XY at the moment). The Prusa Mini looks pretty cool, and if you only want to 3D print, it looks like a pretty decent option (what kind of print speeds can you realistically get out of it?). But the laser and CNC engraving that you can do on the Snapmaker isn't something the Prusas can do (maybe laser with a bit of modding - but if you're gonna go that route, I'd just build a printer from scratch).
@@JohnAldred true, the prusas can't do lasers (unless you mod them :p) was mostly thinking of the 3d printing aspect. in my experience my prusa mk3 is 2-3 times faster than snapmaker. and MUCH quieter. anywho. Do you know if there are any other software for laser and cnc for the snapmaker? the snapmaker js software is so bad.
Well, the Prusa i3 Mk 3 also has a much bigger build plate, so it's able to get better acceleration on larger parts to reach higher speeds. Definitely agree on the volume level, though, lol. I haven't tried any other software, really, with the laser or CNC, but I've heard that people have had good success with Inkscape and a plugin whose name escapes me for laser, and Fusion 360 for CNC.
It's a nice thought, but I don't think it will. Not easily anyway. I think it's unlikely that the original Snapmaker firmware would be able to support it (even if you're able to physically plug it in).
@@JohnAldred Just got an email from snapmaker and the rotary module will work with the height upgrade. From snapmaker they are going to have the rotary module available in may this year.
Unfortunately not. It's basically a choice between the Z-axis extension module or the enclosure. But you only really need both if you're printing ABS. If you're just using the laser and the CNC, you don't need the Z extension. And if you're printing PLA, you don't need the enclosure.
so you made a great argument for having a smaller 3d printers, but nobody is gonna buy an $800 3 in 1 to use it just as a 3d printer. Wouldn't it make more sense to get the big 2.0 and some other dedicated small 3d printer?
It makes more sense for those that don't own the Snapmaker already, absolutely. That was the point of the video, for people who already own the original Snapmaker. If you've got or are getting a bigger 3D printer, it definitely makes sense to have a smaller one (whether it's a Snapmaker or not) for when the big one's tied up. :)
@@JohnAldred im just on the edge on buying a 2.0 model because Im wonder if anyone has ever had a component failure yet, such as a motor, control board, module, or power supply. because even if its covered under warranty, we the customer have to pay for shipping and handling to and from china, plus an import tariff.
The CNC head should cut acrylic with no problem as long as you're watching your feeds and speeds. I wouldn't use this for metal, though. Officially it won't cut metal, although some people have managed to engrave (but not cut) very soft metals, like brass for plaques and such.
I suspect that depends on the method you're choosing to make them. You can 3D print and make lost PLA castings. You can potentially engrave some fine detail in to soft metals with the CNC (slowly), or use the laser with film to cut away designs for chemical etching on metals, but beyond that, I've really no idea. It's not something I make. :)
Seeing how it's $1400 for pre-order (also my $50 dollar code won't work) for something that could be hit with a few hundred dollars in tariffs fees really makes it not worth the upgrade.
The same rules apply to CNC and laser. Not much point repeating the whole video three times, heh. It was mostly for people who already had one debating whether to keep it or sell it. Indeed, buying today without owning anything already, if you only need 3D printing, there are more cost effective options out there at this size. But for those thinking about selling the Snapmaker they already own, for what they'd get on the used market, it's probably just worth just keeping it for most people. The CNC can cut, but it depends what kind of material you want to cut. It can do acrylic, wood, etc. Don't even think about it with metal, though. :)
I've managed to get you guys a permanent 5% discount code on Eryone filament. Just use code "johnaldred" on checkout from the Eryone store (ships from the same local warehouses as Amazon).
- Eryone Orange PLA - bit.ly/eryonestandardpla
- Eryone Silk PLA - bit.ly/eryonesilkpla
still have no 3D printer yet - but you got me with this Snapmaker
It's still on sale for a day or two ;)
Closed captions say “this nut maker” whenever he says snapmaker
Hahaha!
3:30 an interesting and good point about large 3D printers. The long print times catch a lot of people by surprise and if there is an error or failure, that could be a lot of plastic wasted.
Fortunately I don't get too many failures with my printers, but yeah, I think most people drastically underestimate how much more filament they'll go through when they start printing bigger. :)
Awesome! Good to see you again John.
Thanks Jason. I really hope I can get to spend more time on RUclips in the new year. :)
That's some serious bit of kit you've got there ~ Can't believe how tiny it is as well, really good desktop setup. You need to make more 3D printing content on your channel. ~~~~~I'm also equally mega jealous of your camera gear storage solution in the background ahahaha
Haha, it's mostly electronic components storage, but I do store my spare memory cards, batteries and other small photography bits on there. I plan to do some more 3D printing videos in the new year, but want to try to keep them related to photo and video projects. Have a couple of cool ones planned when the Snapmaker 2 arrives. :)
I thought the bigger the better but I have never thought about the time consuming thing. That's a good point.
Glad it helped! It's definitely handy to have a smaller printer around. Most of the stuff I print isn't that huge, so I tend to use my smaller ones the most.
Also the portability aspect of the SM1 is nothing to shrug at. You can tote it to and from events and houses with one hand and the all metal body ensures no warping or major adjustments needed to and fro!
That's a very good point. That wasn't something I had considered, as I don't tend to take mine to other places, haha. But yeah, Even with the Z extension module, it's easy to transport.
2:30 thankfully most modern printers take about 5-10 min to heat their print bed to 60C for PLA rather than 30min which is fairly similar if not faster than the snapmaker 2. Also, a smaller size doesn't necessarily mean faster heating. I have several Cetus Mk II's that will take over 10 min to heat to barely 55C and that is because the bed wattage and power brick are very very small for even the small bed area.
On my other printers, I'm usually around 70-75C for the bed (because they print PETG). They heat relatively quickly considering they're aluminium and only 12v (those printers came with PCB beds that would get up to temp in a couple of minutes, but they weren't very safe), but they're also only 220x220 build plates.
You're right that there are other variables than just the size (bed material, voltage, circuit layout & resistance, current, etc), but I was making an "all else being equal" argument. :)
@@JohnAldred thanks for the reply! And ah, that is all very fair, one of my printers is an Anet A8 same type of bed so I can relate, road safety be prepared to be ignored.
Thanks for not snapping at me! XD
Haha, no, I wouldn't snap. You made a valid point! :)
I keep seeing targeted ads for the snapmaker 2.0, and so I came here to watch your video. I have never owned a 3D printer before and am looking to buy my very first one. The snapmaker would be awesome because it also has the lasers and I'd love to also carve/engrave/cut... but as a total beginner, would you recommend it? Or would you recommend starting with something smaller/simpler and working my way up? If so, do you have a suggestion for a 3D printer that prints sturdy + detailed, but isn't SUPER expensive? (the snapmaker is a bit pricey for me). Thank you!
If the size limits of the original Snapmaker fit within your requirements, then it's definitely an option I'd recommend. The new Snapmaker 2 models are fantastic, too (I have the A350 and it's been printing non-stop for about 2 months now producing amazing prints). But if it's just for 3D printing and you want to be as low budget as possible, then I'd probably take a look at the Creality Ender 3. It's not a perfect printer, and you might need to slow the print speed down a bit to get the best quality results from it but for what it costs, it's a decent printer and there's a good community out there for it. Obviously there's no CNC with the Ender 3 (the frame wouldn't be strong enough). You can attach a laser to it, but it's not as simple as just swapping out a head like it is with the Snapmakers. You'd have to buy a laser module and go the DIY route to attach and control it - which is easier said than done. And by the time you've gone through the hassle and expense of doing that, it would probably be easier to pick up a dedicated laser engraver or the Snapmaker.
@@JohnAldred Thank you so much! That was helpful!
Getting the snapmaker 2.0 as well. We can do print competitions
Hmmm... Who's gonna set the rules of these competitions? Who shall we get to judge? :)
@@JohnAldred I can judge them
Haha, right. ;)
Can it mill aluminium and brass? Is it possible to change the chuck to a ER series chuck?
Perhaps in the same way that you can dig a hole with a spoon. Can you technically dig a hole with a spoon? Yes. Would you want to dig an Olympic sized swimming pool with one? Absolutely not. Even with soft metals like aluminium or brass, this wouldn't be the best choice if cutting metal is your primary purpose.
A150 doesn't work for the rotary module since its max. carving working height is too low. Both A250 and A350 work for the rotary module.
Right now, there isn't a rotary module yet anyway, haha.
Dude, I have 3 large printers and none of them take days to print anything. I just printed an object 10” x 8” x 4” in 7 hours and it has pretty significant detail. Speed is at 60mm, later height 0.2. Shell walls 2. And it looks fabulous and very sturdy. If your prints are taking days, up to 7 you said, then you might out to delve into your settings and adjust that. Neat machine though; however, it sounds incredibly slow.
The design of a model has more an effect on the time it will take to print it than its overall size. :)
What is your opinion on the 2 other functions? Is the CNC & Laser engraver worth it? I hope so!
I've only done basic tests with them, but they work quite well. Worth is a personal thing, though, depending on your needs. If you want to work with huge pieces or cut or engrave metal, there are going to be better options out there. But if the materials you wish to use are relatively soft (wood, vinyl, etc) and the size limitations aren't an issue, it's a great option.
Great review. Is the laser engraver strong enough to cut stippling into Glock's polymer frames? And is the cnc carver strong enough to cut serial numbers into alloys like aluminum billet?
I have absolutely no idea, to be honest. We don't have access to too many Glocks in the UK, so haven't tried. I would expect the CNC should work for engraving serial numbers into aluminium with the right bit - I don't know if the supplied one would do it, but there are plenty of others out there on eBay and Amazon. :)
@@JohnAldred thanks for the info. 👍💯🏆🥇
Great video - thank you! It seems like some of the drawback of the larger 2.0 could be addressed if it allowed you to swap the larger bed for the smaller one for smaller jobs (with the software recognizing that of course). Do you think the Snapmaker folks would sell the smaller bed on its own and provide that capability? I ask because I know you’ve actually talk to them before.
I would suspect that they probably wouldn't do this, mostly because they'd have to make a whole new firmware for each of the three Snapmaker 2 printer sizes to accommodate the smaller bed, and if people end up using the wrong one (especially with the laser or CNC mill) it could potentially spell disaster. I think they might consider selling somebody a bed from the original Snapmaker if they contacted them directly, with the buyer assuming all the risk if something went wrong, but I don't think they'd offer it as a kit for general sale.
I wonder tho if bed size is something the software could detect and thus the software could make selecting the wrong one impossible/select the right one automatically for you. It claims to be modular and that would be quite a plus for the larger one based on your video. Your point is well taken tho. Thanks again - I’m just learning and your videos have helped a lot.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear you've found them useful! :)
you can 3d print big thing just make lots of small parts and glue them to make something big yea I think it's wort getting.
Yup, most definitely! A lot of the mechanical items I make are lots of small parts glued together to make the final thing.
Hey John, question, do you've any tips to use the cnc toolhead a bit better? The only thing I'm able of is to engrave simple things, but not the Gcode stuff like photo's or exotic stuff like tribal things.. I use Freecad here (trying to master it). I've lot of wood here since I made a new fence.. :D
I've not really done much with the CNC. Now that it's warming up a bit outside, though, I am going to be setting it up in the garage, where it doesn't matter if it gets a bit sawdusty, to have more of a play with the CNC and I definitely plan to do some videos on it. :)
@@JohnAldred Do you know if there's something like a Gcode database of CNC works I can use/copy for the Snapmaker? Or are the codes too unique per situation?
I think they're going to be pretty unique to the situation, but it's something I'm actively researching at the moment to get some content out about it soon.
I see no price when I check Amazon possibly cause I'm in Canada but would it make more sense just to use the z axis extension on all 3 axises to increase the total scale and just add a new buildplate in terms of pricing?
A lot of prices seem to have disappeared on Amazon lately as stock in their warehouses seems to have diminished (they're refusing non-medical/essential stuff at the moment).
I have heard of a couple of people using the Z-Axis extensions on more than just the Z-Axis, but I haven't tried it myself. At that point, though, it might be worth going up to something like the Snapmaker 2 A250 instead for a similar size (especially with the current pre-order discounts). You would be waiting a little while for it, though, as they're still getting caught up.
hmm. you haven't heard about the prusa mk3 and mini? which other printers do you have?
We have a snapmaker at our makerspace. Doesn't get too much love I'm afraid.
(just stumbled here while searching for snapmaker2)
Yeah, I've been going away from the i3 style printers (getting bits ready to build a Core XY at the moment). The Prusa Mini looks pretty cool, and if you only want to 3D print, it looks like a pretty decent option (what kind of print speeds can you realistically get out of it?). But the laser and CNC engraving that you can do on the Snapmaker isn't something the Prusas can do (maybe laser with a bit of modding - but if you're gonna go that route, I'd just build a printer from scratch).
@@JohnAldred true, the prusas can't do lasers (unless you mod them :p)
was mostly thinking of the 3d printing aspect.
in my experience my prusa mk3 is 2-3 times faster than snapmaker. and MUCH quieter.
anywho. Do you know if there are any other software for laser and cnc for the snapmaker? the snapmaker js software is so bad.
Well, the Prusa i3 Mk 3 also has a much bigger build plate, so it's able to get better acceleration on larger parts to reach higher speeds. Definitely agree on the volume level, though, lol.
I haven't tried any other software, really, with the laser or CNC, but I've heard that people have had good success with Inkscape and a plugin whose name escapes me for laser, and Fusion 360 for CNC.
John, now you have the working height upgrade will the 2.0 rotary module work with the snapmaker 1.0.
It's a nice thought, but I don't think it will. Not easily anyway. I think it's unlikely that the original Snapmaker firmware would be able to support it (even if you're able to physically plug it in).
@@JohnAldred Just got an email from snapmaker and the rotary module will work with the height upgrade. From snapmaker they are going to have the rotary module available in may this year.
Oh, awesome, that's pretty cool then! I didn't think they'd make it compatible with both the Snapmaker 2 and the original Snapmaker.
With the Z-axis upgrade, can the Snapmaker still be installed in the dedicated enclosure?
Unfortunately not. It's basically a choice between the Z-axis extension module or the enclosure. But you only really need both if you're printing ABS. If you're just using the laser and the CNC, you don't need the Z extension. And if you're printing PLA, you don't need the enclosure.
so you made a great argument for having a smaller 3d printers, but nobody is gonna buy an $800 3 in 1 to use it just as a 3d printer. Wouldn't it make more sense to get the big 2.0 and some other dedicated small 3d printer?
It makes more sense for those that don't own the Snapmaker already, absolutely. That was the point of the video, for people who already own the original Snapmaker.
If you've got or are getting a bigger 3D printer, it definitely makes sense to have a smaller one (whether it's a Snapmaker or not) for when the big one's tied up. :)
have you ran into any issues with your original snap maker, where you had to send it in for warranty?
Nope, no issues so far. What's happened?
@@JohnAldred im just on the edge on buying a 2.0 model because Im wonder if anyone has ever had a component failure yet, such as a motor, control board, module, or power supply. because even if its covered under warranty, we the customer have to pay for shipping and handling to and from china, plus an import tariff.
They're not issues that I've faced personally. Not with the original Snapmaker.
Hi...does this printer cut acrylic? metal? like into shapes?
The CNC head should cut acrylic with no problem as long as you're watching your feeds and speeds. I wouldn't use this for metal, though. Officially it won't cut metal, although some people have managed to engrave (but not cut) very soft metals, like brass for plaques and such.
@@JohnAldred thank you
Can i make a metal jewellery with this printer?
I suspect that depends on the method you're choosing to make them. You can 3D print and make lost PLA castings. You can potentially engrave some fine detail in to soft metals with the CNC (slowly), or use the laser with film to cut away designs for chemical etching on metals, but beyond that, I've really no idea. It's not something I make. :)
Seeing how it's $1400 for pre-order (also my $50 dollar code won't work) for something that could be hit with a few hundred dollars in tariffs fees really makes it not worth the upgrade.
"Worth" is a personal thing. For some it'll be worth it, for others it won't. All depends on their needs. :)
Are you keeping your original Snapmaker when your Snapmaker 2 arrives? Why or why not?
Surely it is Z (Zed) not Z (Zee)?
Haha, I've given up caring. But one thing I will say for sure... Zebra definitely pronounced zebra ;)
If you want a small printer buy a prusa mini for a quater of the price😂 dont you use laser or CNC??? Kinda waste of money then
And if you want a small CNC and laser, don't buy the Prusa Mini? ;)
@@JohnAldred vit you didn't mention those two at all.... Just saying... Can the CNC cut an object? OR only engrave ?
The same rules apply to CNC and laser. Not much point repeating the whole video three times, heh. It was mostly for people who already had one debating whether to keep it or sell it. Indeed, buying today without owning anything already, if you only need 3D printing, there are more cost effective options out there at this size. But for those thinking about selling the Snapmaker they already own, for what they'd get on the used market, it's probably just worth just keeping it for most people.
The CNC can cut, but it depends what kind of material you want to cut. It can do acrylic, wood, etc. Don't even think about it with metal, though. :)