Beefing up my DIY CNC - Leadscrew VS. Ballscrew - Learned whole lot about Aluminum milling
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- #DIYCNCMill
#3018CNC
#Fusion360
#Mach3
#Tutorials
Link to my new CNC design (using ballscrews):
grabcad.com/li...
In this video, I showed the process of upgrading my homemade CNC. I changed all the leadscrews on my machine to ballscrews. This upgrade eliminated the gap created by the backlash on the nut of the leadscrew (even with anti-backlash nuts).
I also wanted to make the machine extra sturdy so that I can mill steel in the future so I decided to change all MDF brackets to Aluminum. I milled Aluminum using this machine it-self and learned a lot during the process.
I tried many time to cut the thick pieces out of the 3/8" thick Aluminum stock using 2D contour toolpath but end up with failures. The Aluminum chips got stuck in the cutting track then welded to the bit, afterward the bit just broke.
The adaptive clearing toolpath along the bounderies of the piece worked but extremely slow. It took me more than 1h30min to cut a small piece out.
After finished milling all the Aluminum pieces for the end bearing blocks and plates for the Z axis block. I noticed that my Z axis block getting a lot looser due to the fact that the brackets were made of MDF so I couldn't mill Aluminum precisely anymore.
I decided cut the rest of the brackets and plates using MDF to install the ballscrews on the machine and replace the Z axis block with Aluminum pieces.
After installed the ballscrews, the machine became a lot more sturdy, I cannot feel any gap on the axis. But with the 2 gantry plates of the X axis made out of MDF, I still can feel that these 2 plates flex a bit when pushing hard from side to side.
At the end, I tried one more time to cut a bracket out of a 1/2" thick Aluminum stock using a 2D contour toolpath. This time, I added a compressed air hose to cool down the bit and also blast the chips away. This spraying hose definitely helped a lot. The cut was clean and I didn't have any problem with the Aluminum chips got welded to the bit.
Here's what I learned from ALuminum milling:
- Use single flute end mill bits with high speed spindle (I ran the spindle at 18000 to 20000 rpm)
- Try to reduce the vibrations on your machine (fully supported rails, All steel or aluminum frame, use ballscrews instead of leadscrews).
- Use compressed air or mist coolant sprayer to cool the bit and blow the chips away.
Links to buy components:
Ballscrews:
www.aliexpress...
1/8" single flute end mill (pack of 10):
www.aliexpress...
6mm single flute end mill (1pc):
www.aliexpress...
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First time watcher. This guy is hard core. Nothing is going to stop this guy from perfecting his machine.
Thank you for watching, I'm not that hard-cored. Money (out of money to be more precise) will stop me, and it already did, lol! Well, I haven't done much more since the video after this one (made the other brackets aluminum)
Excellent thanks! Your machine gets better and better... it will end up being really capable and very desirable. :o)
This is a very clear demonstration for those people who are struggling with "chip welding" and broken bits:
1) Use free cutting grades of aluminium, like 6061, of possible.
2) It is essential to get chips away from the cutter immediately - if the chip has been cleared before the cutting edge comes around again, it CANNOT get melted onto the cutter or workface.
3) Use a single-flute cutter. This allows a larger space for the chips to get out, and lets more air in to help with cooling.
4) Use an 'air-blast' to clear chips, and cool things down. (Make a simple fence like Minh has done to stop the chips covering your whole shop.)
5) If you can do the above, you do not need liquids, which hamper chip clearance, and make a mess anyway.
I am only refering to 'Hobby Grade' machines... if you can afford a monster with flood-cooling and all the bells and whistles, you are wasting your time reading this! :o)
Liked and Subscribed.
Thanks John, your comment sum up everything. I wish to have your comment before starting all this, lol!
My brother you need a band saw its after and will allow you to make complex curves. THANKS for the tip on routing the outline then cutting out the parts later, it would save HOURS on production time. 😊
Your videos and your iterations of the design have inspired my 3018 max overhaul.
Thank you so much for taking all the effort in making these videos, I have a 3018 DIY cnc and this helped me so much.
3018 CNC is definitely a good starting point. I learned so much from using that machine. It has been only more than a year since I first learning cnc milling with that machine. You can definitely do the same as I did to build better CNC machine from it. I have other viewers showed their machine made using 3018 CNC and the design I shared. Have fun and enjoy milling, making things.
God I love this channel. I'm just getting into CNC and it's extremely helpful.
Awesome my friend. Very glad to be helpful!
@@minhsmancave9448 Aloha Minh! Great videos. I bought a Sainsmart 3018 and find all kinds of small problems like no set screws on linear bearings that I noticed you took care of in your designs. I want to just upgrade my 3018 Genmitsu to a 500W spindle because my old spindle motor died. I don't want to buy another weak spindle motor that allows me to create my own 'adapter' out of plywood like you did. Is there anyone who makes a spindle motor upgrade adapter so I can use a 500W motor? Can you do this if I pay you? I just want to cnc very hard wood for fun vs. spend time upgrading my cnc.
@@williamdenham8018 maybe you should go with something like this: www.aliexpress.com/item/4001294600834.html
And if you are upgrading to 500W spindle, maybe you should buy the spindle set first. The spindle might be 52mm or 55mm diameter and it might come with a clamp or not. I'll try to help if you cannot find a good solution
Minh bin here since you first started with your 3018 and I am impressed at your ability of self learning well done my friend keep up the awesome work.
Thank you for your support my friend. I can tell you that the 3018 taught me everything. Having a good CNC now is really fun and open up a lot more possibilities to make things but I don't regret buying the 3018 at all
I absolutely love how your machine eats through the aluminium and it is so smooth too so no chatter or anything. I can't wait to get to the ball screw part but time to mow the yard (I will watch more later).
It will get better soon. The MDF plates flexed a bit and make the holes kinda upside down conic shape. The top is bigger compared to the bottom. No chattering, just not very precise. I had to use the drill press to clean up the holes. After changing the Z axis to Aluminum, it got much better but I can also still feel that the 2 gantry plates on the X axis flexed. I'm sure it can mill Aluminum much better by next week after I change all the brackets to Aluminum.
@@minhsmancave9448 Yeah? I didn't make it to that but I can tell you MDF is crap except as a waste board. You know MDF is really just sawdust and glue so you can't expect much from it. HDF isn't much better and frankly I hate the stuff. Oh, I have had HDF and MDF delaminate on me when I stuck it outside even though I painted it and sealed it. Go very slow and get those in Aluminium, instead of MDF, and be amazed.
And dude, forgot to thank you for suggesting single flute end mills for aluminum to me before. I tried those and that's only type of bits that worked for me with this spindle.
@@minhsmancave9448 You are welcome because they just make far smoother everything and they don't gum up plus they have the least resistance so the spindle is actually doing less work. You can hear it, see it, and feel it while the machine is plowing through the aluminium. Oh, and because of everything I mentioned it can also go through it faster. So many people are using 2 or 3 flutes it amazes me.
@@thebeststooge to
You're a real trooper. Getting down to 1/2" is a big deal. Nice!
Once I know what to do, it's not that hard. Compressed air is very important. If you're not scared of messy water, adding some mist will make Aluminum cutting very easy, almost like plywood, at least with this spindle.
You are really great for sharing your hard work. One thing that is clear is that we all buy things which are cheaper and keep buying replacements. knowing your journey helps us decide with some knowledge beforehand. It is amazing how much you end up needing to know
Motor selection-Everything from possible spindle 500w 52mm banggood motors, to makita routers to the vfd spindle ?power.
The different types of linear rail from the sbr20 to hgr20 type or possibly 16 size.
The difference between lead screws and bearings sfu/rm1605 bearings . I note you used sfu1204
The sizes of the aluminium extrusion ,
whether the deck moves or the gantry moves over the bed,
the number of guides for the z axis.
the power/torque for the stepper motors
The different setups of the moot 3,
lowrider 2/3 and making things based on those with other options for rails,(electrical conduit) and driving them not by lead screws/bearing screws but tape.
the difference between boards.
I am getting a 3018 - this is excellent content - subbed!
Just came across this site, 🤔
Very Impressive, diligent workmanship 👍🏻👍🏻
Good Job Sir. Fantastic engineering and adaptive solutions to the machine parts. Thank you for your generosity by sharing your knowledge with the rest of us. Salutations from France.
Merci mon ami. Mon plaisir.
My friend your knowledge and experience is showing most would conceal and never reveal i greatly enjoy your videos treasure of information and entertaining must say i really enjoy your way of speaking it soothing but easy to folow dont put me to bed keeps my attention on the objective anyways just saying great job and thank you my friend
Hi Minh, I just bought a 3018 (my first CNC) 2 weeks ago, and watching your videos has made me realize I should probably return it.
I would like one that can mill 1/4" aluminum. I can assemble the parts, but if you are interested in earning some $, I would pay you to make the parts for a better machine. Of course I'd pay for all the parts and your time, but I understand if you're not interested.
Great work!! You are a smart guy !
How much is your budget? A decent machine such as 6040 on eBay is not bad at all, it is ready to run out of the box and surely can cut aluminum. Look for the one with all supported rails on all axis
Oh man love doing this kind of stuff. Building machines on the cheap that can do what machines costing thousands can do. Love that your cutting aluminum with a cheap harbor freight saw. I just got a cheap 3018 CNC and want to get it to the point it will cut aluminum well. Right now it can do it, just not too well. Defiantly will be using your videos for inspiration to get my machine where I want it to be. You definitely got me as a sub!
When you have a 3018 cnc, you have to pair it with harbor freight tools, lol!!! For the 3018 to cut aluminum correctly, the most important upgrade will be replacing the rods on the X axis with the fully supported rail like sbr12, sbr16 or mgn15. The spindle upgrade to a 500w set will be another. That will make the 3018 cut Aluminum fairly well. Also use single flute end mill will make the cut smoother.
Another great vlog, stay safe. Will look forward to the next one.
Long videos from Minh are Great Videos from Minh!.
RAD
Excellent!!! I have to build one of these.
im just getting started on this game great to see your gradual improvements. i have seen comments on using isopropol alcohol when miling aluminium that it is helpful to lubricate and keep the bit cool
Excellent videos, much thanks for making them!
You mention in one of your comments how it would be possible to buy a 6040 off eBay cheaper. Maybe so, but your machine looks much better to me!
Greetings from England!
Thank you for liking my design. I didn't say the 6040 is cheaper, it's ready to be put together. That's an easy option for people who doesn't want to go through the whole process of upgrading, cutting parts. It's a long process and not always smooth. Mistakes happen but I learned a lot.
Спасибо за видео. Вдохновляет на творческий процесс.
What are the specific measurements of all the ball screws. I just got my 3018 CNC kit and have not started to assemble yet but already I want to Mill aluminum so I think I will go with the ball screws too... Your videos have been very helpful thank you.
Great video, its thanksgiving morning here.
I really enjoyed watching your video, i am a cnc programmer machinist by trade.
I have a small suggestion for you to help hold down your parts, if you have a part that has holes in it you can put screws in those holes thru to your scarf board to cut your outside contour to prevent your part from moving.
👍
Happy Thanksgiving, I'm preparing some ducks for Thanksgiving dinner, not traditional at all, lol!!! Thank you for watching and I'll keep your suggestions in mind for next time.
You are doing great work, keep it up man 👍🏼
Thank you my friend. I'm always trying to make more fun things.
I built my machine (an eternal work in progress, always looking to improve) based on your findings and I am forever grateful for your video's. Looking forward to more from you. Next step adding epoxy granite to reduce vibrations?
I finished replacing all the brackets with aluminum (next video after this one) and the machine is working really well with aluminum. Not much vibration that can make the bits chatter. I still have hard time milling steel because the spindle speed is too high (low speeds don't have good torque). Other than that, I'm pretty happy with the setup.
You are a really magic man ;o) 👍
Nice work. Great videos.
good job
You have helped me with ideas thank you.
Great progress!
Do you use an ordinary circular saw with a metal cutting blade ? Did you manage to cut stainkless steel? what was your power level for the spindle?
I cut aluminum using any teeth blade. I used abrasive blade to cut the steel rails.
@@minhsmancave9448 Thanks. Did your VFD/spindle manage to cut steel. I was wanting to buy one spindle to swap in different machines bandsaw, bench drill, cnc etc. but watching youtube seems to indicate you need big motors with low rpm 80 or so for stainless and high torque. Vevor spindles do not seem to indicate that low an rpm even with the 1.5-4kW spindles.
No, it was too fast and too low torque at low speed. On my new CNC, I have 375w ac motor ran at 2850rpm, I feel it is still fast to cut steel. Might to reduce to about 1000 or 1500rpm
@@minhsmancave9448 Thanks, you saved me wasting any more time on the idea. If I ever want to I will consider pulleys.
👍excellent job
I love your idea of using wood to make the machine and improve it after with metal that way you don´t have pay someone to help you. Really great ! Thank you so much for your comment too it helps beginners a lot !😄
Yes, I'm building a new design using the same approach and it is working great. Milling Aluminum very easily and can upgrade itself. Will post the new video soon.
I'm not very wowed by this design as it's a moving gantry type, but for those who like bigger is better I think it could be the way to go......I'm into building the 3018 with advanced upgrades as suggested by your previous videos on the 3018.......basically the 3018 is a fun machine and can do quite impressive work if beefed up.......it's mainly for people who like a small compact very economical envelope and also the DIY input for upgrade, but in the end it is purely a big boys Meccano set after all.
No argument about 3018 CNC is a fun starter machine. Each design has its pros and cons, moving gantry is surely less sturdy compared to moving bed. But has bigger working area for smaller footprint. If your aim is milling hard material, moving bed is definitely the way to go. My main purpose is making 3D relief type of arts, that's why I want to go with moving gantry for large working area.
@@minhsmancave9448 Size is a major factor for the parts you want to make.....no one has yet settled on the ideal size once they start a purchase and price will always determine the outcome, it's usually a bigger upgrade as soon as you get it going.
If you bought your ideal machine in the beginning it would mean a huge outlay that would break the bank......time, being the cheapest commodity for the DIY person, always wins against the complete package ready to run out of the box deal.
The very worrying thing is the upsets that China is experiencing and the problems from import tariffs that are now making DIY build goods hard to source.
Great video and thanks for all the commentary. So why haven’t you attached the vacuum to the spindle yet, is the space restricted or do you like doing it by hand?
Yes, doing things by hand help me relax, lol. Just kidding!!! I have space and I don't like to do it by hand. I'm planning on it but I wanted to finish building my dust collecting system first. Getting there very soon.
Minh's man cave : well the problem with the chips is an eye opener for me, I’m glad I watched. Also, machining Aluminium at all with the wooden supports is impressive, well done for doing it regardless and now improving it.
Right now, I'm just trying to engrave 3mm letters in aluminum. I'm having a difficult time doing it. The letters have to be pretty small. I found a video showing how to create the design with fusion 360 (using the single line fonts). What bit would you use to do this??? The letters need to be sharp/precise.
You can use v bit, but the 3018 cnc is very shaky when milling aluminum, the V bit will break very easily. Do to extreme precise jobs, the 3018 cnc is not the best. Might need to upgrade the rail on the X axis and the spindle to a more precise one to cut tiny letters.
By the way, if you want to do just text, I think inventables from X-carve is not bad, but need to pay monthly subscription for few dollars I think
Hello, Thanks for the video.
Why did you use water cooled spindle instead of air cooled since it's a small machine so small package ?
Water cooled spindle is quiet and can run longer cutting without hitting up. I know that I overkilled but very happy with its performance. Air cooled spindles usually are not recommend for cutting jobs longer than 5 hours or something like that. If I tried to make some big and detailed 3d relief, it can take really long time.
@@minhsmancave9448 I see thanks
Hi Minh thanks for the video. I'm converting a full size milling machine to cnc My tables are worn. and my y axis acme nut and acme screw are worn also making the Y table extremley difficult to move do you think a ball screw would make it easier to move?.
Yes, definitely. With the ballscrews, I can move my machine at higher feed rates and also faster acceleration. Totally recommended the ballscrews
@@minhsmancave9448 Thanks Minh. Keep on making videos. They are among the best with all the detail and showing what works and what doesn't work.
Mihn, did you also replace the guide rails?
Yes, the ballscrews are not essential for milling Aluminium but the guide rails are. The rails have to be sturdy or fully supported for milling harder material such aluminum. The ballscrews only help to have better precision.
thx from CNC newb
Can you tell parametrs of you spindlle(kw) and stepper motors?
Why you never try add some plates for increasing vertical stability on both sides of vertical legs? You have only vertical plate, about 20mm. I think it's should help prevent from moving side by side. Aluminium is good, but still those legs can bend... There is not something what can prevent vertical bending. If you look at industrial machines, they have very thick vertical legs.
Spindle is 2.2kw water-cooled. Stepper motors are nema 23 3N.m. I'm in the process of improving all the plate's sturdiness by changing from MDF to Aluminium. In this video, I already replaced the Z axis and it reduced greatly the it's flexibility. Will finish replacing everything by next week.
@@minhsmancave9448 I see you videos from starting with 2030 CNC. I bought this small machine to, should arrive next week. All your problems is waiting for me... I yust thinking about reinforcing side plates vith adding plates like T. One more problem with aluminium milling is the distance from spindle axis, as i understand from many channels, best results you get if you leveling up parts close to axis as poosible. For less vibrations from spindle.You should adjust spindle level higer and use shortest bits. Ideal, somewhere to midle of axis...I can't try this, but you can ( for me and other subscribers):):):)
Lâu rồi mới thấy anh ra video mới, Đoạn kết video a có nói hai vai bằng gỗ, dự là các video sau, khả năng anh Minh sẽ nâng cấp tiếp hai vai thành nhôm đây :))
Ừ, tại video dài quá nên phải để sang phần sau. Cũng cắt sắp xong hết rồi. Hì vọng có thể cắt thép sau khi thay bằng mấy tấm nhôm
Nice!!
what kind of vacuum do you use? is it a regular house hold vacuum?
Just a 5 gallon shop vac. Surely not a pro dust collector
@@minhsmancave9448 a shop vac? what's the difference between a vacuum for shops and a regular household vacuum?
It's a bit bigger and more powerful, less mobility and louder, can work with either wet or dry debris.
@@minhsmancave9448 I see thank you very much :)
Can you do for sell, what aprox the price...???
If you wanted to buy one that works probably similar to mine, you can buy a 6040 machine from eBay (larger working area). I will only be able to make all the brackets, gantry plates from Aluminum, You will have to buy the rest and assemble everything your-self. Counting the material, my time making the piece, power usage of the machine, consumables, and then the shipping, etc. the cost might not be cheaper compare to a 6040 machine that's ready to use out of the box.
make simple cheap cnc , to make parts for better cnc , to then use better cnc to make even better cnc XD best idea and save a lot of money (cnc milled parts are super expensive :/ ) :D
PS.
U have good mic so u dont need to talk so loud :)
maybe only when far from the camera
Will try to reduce the volume for the next videos
Hardcore technologies
If this just a hobby or do you make money with cnc
Still a hobby for now