I’ve been running double barrel shocks with stock shock springs, allows insane droop but when the truck sits on its own weight or goes up hills it sits just as low as stock.
@@Esyehd I really like it actually, I don’t get hung up nearly as much since i get more droop and it really doesn’t change side hill or vertical hill performance… just gotta have a light/no body! 😁
matt cut one of the springs in half to put in the bottom of the chamber and the other half on the top both internal ok you did it , thats what I get for not waiting till the end lol, love it matt PS: 390 left
Shocks are about the only thing I'm not satisfied yet with my c10 build, I've got about zero stock components and it's pretty much perfect for my use, except for the shocks!
I bought the rcawd oil filled shocks and was so disappointed, brain stormed a few days and completely took the springs off and filled it with silicon shock oil. The difference is insane, I went from thinking money wasted, to money well spent. I really want to find telescopic oil filled shocks. Love the vids!
@@ESPonMe THe shock oil I am using Traxxas Silicone shock oil, Does not say the weight on it, but its 30wt oil. When I ran the springs with the oil, they would not compress at all and would stay fully extended the entire crawl, and I would roll 24/7 because of the very high center of gravity.
Bought a couple of Scx24s a few months ago and have been playing around and modifying them. Currently favour a similar set-up to this. Short forced droop Injora shicks on the front and hybrid double barrel shock on the rear using standard /short SCX24 springs.also using the stock SCX24 shock ends on the double barrel shocks for a bit less bind.
Heck yeah! Glad you picked some up. They are a blast! Yeah my double barrels have the hot racing aluminum ends and the og vlp springs on them so they are super soft.
I use the shorter injora with the softer spring from the longer injora in forced droop for the front. Same travel as the longer injora with lower stance. Double barrels with the limiting chain/springs in that back
Yeah I’m not running limit straps 😆. I just hate them. I’ll have to play with the shorter ones. I’m running the shorts on my bronco but long on a couple others.
@@2fmrc The long/short parts aren't fully compatible. There are some differences in the internals on the short and long injura. For example the short shafts have a wider ID and wider spring that won't fit in the longer shock. IIRC the shorter shocks have longer travel in forced droop position then the longer injoras.
Excellent! I appreciate you taking the time to explain and demonstrate the various options shown here in this video. Looks like I'll be ordering a few more sets of shock options to play with. Haha
Man I just figured this out with the hot racing shocks and wanted to check them out on RUclips to see if the guts were the similar on the injoras and see you figured this out already . I’ve seen all your videos but this one. I love this mod . Wish I saw it earlier wouldve saved me a lot of testing time haha
I’m always testing! I try to stay on top of it at least lol. Good stuff though huh?! I run these shocks on the front of almost all of mine now. Internal shocks with forced droop in the front with some sort of long travel rear.
This is really good info! I like it. I’m learning about set up & all that, I bought into the HR shocks & they suck. I’m definitely gonna give this ago! My set up works ok but the way you do it & explained it makes perfect sense.🤩👍🏼
I do this same thing on these shock but I put a tiny drop of rem oil or some other super thin oil in them. makes them have some damping an make the act more naturally
well that changed everything 100% improvement using shocks i thought were no good. Amazing difference swapping out the front db shocks to injora forced droop awesome!
I can’t find the Treal oil shocks anywhere on the internet… I’m guessing they’re discontinued? I’m definitely going to try the internal spring shock set up!
I use the OX motor and it's the best brush motor I've found so far. I've been using the OX motor for 1 to 2 years now no problems still going like new...
Yep! That’s my choice If staying brushed. I was sent a few torquebeast to try out but honestly I’ve just not had good luck with them. Id rather run my ox
@@NineNineCustoms yeah I have one of those red ones. Pretty solid motor. I haven’t ran it much cause I swapped out to test the next one but it seemed to be good while I was running it.
@@2fmrc honestly came out pretty flawless, followed tour instructions to a tee. Jecracing Evo24 with a droop setup, still get plenty of articulation from with zero unloading. Only wish the barrel of the shock wasn't so BIG!
Think I know what you’re talking about but for me I like a soft spring and they normally don’t have the resistance to them to pull the shock back up as much as I like. Keeps it somewhat limited but not slammed like I run these. Unless I cut the spring super short and it usually still don’t keep the tension.
@@2fmrc I went and got some tread tape to make a longer incline board. If I have anything worth reporting, I’ll be back. Hope you have a great day, Matt! Thanks for sharing!
@@2fmrc Btw, I ordered a cheat code and just might have to try your setup here. Although, I resist in attempt to keep symmetry and other irrational reasonings, the short, controllable front with the long rear and the portals has got to be about the best setup for climbing. You don’t feel like it wants to dump you over the nose in decline? I’ll have to go back and watch your run footage. Just ordered, so I got time.
RC4WD CVD axles arrived yesterday, broke first run today. I am done with scx24s, too many expensive problems with the design concept. 1/10 from now on. Thanks Matt and a last HEY to Liam.
Well I’ll just have to start posting up more of my 1/10 content I guess lol. Yeah hey really do need some design work. I’m hoping by the end of the yr they come out with a completely new design but I doubt it. These are still making them too much money to worry about that lol
@@Brisson. Thank you for your interest! I have switched out every component, carefully assembled and set EPA -20% on each throw, still destroys front axle(s) after an easy peasy pussy crawl! I used to run a Surpass monster motor (now a MOFO Nano-Beast) and never had axle problems despite total lack of EPA and hard crawling. I don't mind spending money, I just love RC rock crawling and have had it with spending $20+ for a five minute run. ANY data, info, poop, etc. you could provide would be greatly appreciated. I am a retired old fart machinist (15+ years) mech. engineer (20+ years) and am baffled to comprehend what I am doing wrong. Again thank you.
@@2fmrc After dense study on hardenable stainless steel, Axles available are of alloys that are inexpensive and deleterious to our particular needs. Time for a manufacturer to step up and engineer a solution.
Man I love all your videos! I’ve used the same shocks on my bronco and on my Scythe build I use for competitions. Where can I get the rock sliders you are using on the bronco? I need to Pick up a set of those.
I really appreciate that! I got them from Flubberstufferz and they are amazing! Not a bad price either imo flubberstufferz.com/products/bronco-slicksliderz
Appreciate the explanation, I run the double barrel on all 4 and up front I get so much body separation up hill. Are you using the 40mm or the 32mm from injora?
Great idea with the injora shocks, I currently am running the RCAWD oil filled shocks but they are a bit to stiff and make my gladiator sit quite high. I still have the injora double barrels laying around, maybe I’ll try them on the back and the others on the front. Great video as always really informative and enjoyable, keep it up :)
Sorry to bother you but I wanted to ask you a question about how you fixed your servo to the plate. I don't see any bracket for holding it down. Did you use double side tape. The servo looks like it's just floating on the plate. Thanks in advance.
Hi mate. Thanks for the vids been learning a lot. I’ll be doing this spring mod! Been trying to search your many vids on brushed motors for my Injora scx24 buggy build. It’s got brass 1.3inch wheels and links so if quiet heavy for a little rig. The Injora purple that works in my other builds is struggling to have the torque l need with the Injora esc and remote same as in one of your vids, I was going to get another simax motor but they are kinda nosy and lm trying to choose a good slow crawling motor with a little speed to get over things when you need it. Any recommendations to video to watch or motors to look at? Was considering the torquebeast. Thanks alot
Matt I have a modified c10 I’ve been using the fly sky noble and have configured the 4 wheel steering to b selected by tapping a switch to go thru the selections i have set my centers and endpoints and it works great but those cheap emax servos just don’t last long I think I need something with more power that’s a bit tougher as for a sxc24 it’s very heavy any suggestions
@@2fmrc well the first bite of brisket and bite off my ribs is for ya. Hey I took and made a cover that fit the spare tire on the bronco and filled it with foam so I lost the weight on the rear but still have the look of the spare tire being on the rear
Yep! I run them on a few trucks. I recently put some springs inside the new ax24 shocks and they work great with this setup. Just gotta find the springs that fit inside of them.
On the brass wheels? Haven’t had any issues with those at all. My scramblers pop out of the Treal wheels all the time. Make sure the bead is washed and really clean of dirt or dust and it helps a bit but they still slip from time to time.
What do you recommend best for a Drager set up? I went with the 43MM but it sits too high so I took the springs out to try droop set up but they feel like they bind half way when they’re under load and try and compress from the telescoping inside the shock. I’ve been curious about a double barrel I just haven’t tried them just cause I wonder if they’ll have the same issue or not.
Maybe the shorter 32mm ones? The double barrels will definitely bind if they aren’t completely straight in line from top to bottom. I haven’t had any issue with the internal spring shocks binding yet.
They actually just rereleased them! It’s from a model kit. Got a new one that just came in. retrohobby.com/amt-1-20-scale-1992-toyota-4x4-pickup-model-kit-amt1425/
If you can find a small enough spring. I’ve wanted to put some inside some of my other shocks but can’t really get a small enough spring. Even a pen spring is too big and stiff lol
You could buy spring wire at a hobby shop and get a rod, like a drill bit, the size you need the spring to be. Heat the wire, wrap around the rod. Heat again and quench. Then toss it in a toaster oven to temper it to the firmness you want. BUT.....it'll take a whole bunch of time and tries to figure out what to quench in, at what heat/color to quench at. Then figure out what temp to temper it at and how long for the desired soft/firmness you want...... but if you're a dedicated mofo, it could be done. :D But..... I think I'd be tempted to measure for what you need, O.D. and /or I.D. and check watch or clock building suppliers.
I was just looking at the injora website after watching this video and it looks like they may of changed the design so you can't do this mod. I'm just curious if they did before I order them
@@wingnutbert9685 everywhere I've checked looks to be a different design in pictures where the upper cap is part of the shock body so you can't have the spring pulling down.. the 40mm shocks look like you can buy the 32mm look different.. just looking to see if I'm wrong based on pictures of the shocks online before ordering
@@The96civicrider Just looked at Injora's site and yes, definitely looks like the 40's would come apart both ends, but the 32's look to be machined as one piece. From a manufacturing standpoint, that seems really odd. Maybe Matt can chime in and confirm his 32's are, in fact, Injora's or an off brand copy, maybe.
Had a bit of a cruise through the web and didn't see any of the 32's good, bad, or ugly, that had tops you could unscrew and inset springs in, unless you went up to 1/10th.
I absolutely agree, there aren’t really any shocks for the scx24’s that stand out as significantly better than others
I’ve been running double barrel shocks with stock shock springs, allows insane droop but when the truck sits on its own weight or goes up hills it sits just as low as stock.
@@V8chump ahh cool! I bet it works well! Atm I’m running stock length up front and double barrels with no springs in the rear
@@Esyehd I really like it actually, I don’t get hung up nearly as much since i get more droop and it really doesn’t change side hill or vertical hill performance… just gotta have a light/no body! 😁
@@V8chump cool! Yeaaa I see how it might benefit from a light body lol
matt cut one of the springs in half to put in the bottom of the chamber and the other half on the top both internal
ok you did it , thats what I get for not waiting till the end lol, love it matt
PS: 390 left
I cut a ring off the springs and then stretch em a little to make em softer also
Shocks are about the only thing I'm not satisfied yet with my c10 build, I've got about zero stock components and it's pretty much perfect for my use, except for the shocks!
I feel you man
If u use the spring in a bic lighter it will fit inside the stock shock setup. Just have to cut the spring length to size
I bought the rcawd oil filled shocks and was so disappointed, brain stormed a few days and completely took the springs off and filled it with silicon shock oil. The difference is insane, I went from thinking money wasted, to money well spent. I really want to find telescopic oil filled shocks. Love the vids!
What if I run a spring and silicon shock oil? What weight are you using?
@@ESPonMe THe shock oil I am using Traxxas Silicone shock oil, Does not say the weight on it, but its 30wt oil. When I ran the springs with the oil, they would not compress at all and would stay fully extended the entire crawl, and I would roll 24/7 because of the very high center of gravity.
Bought a couple of Scx24s a few months ago and have been playing around and modifying them. Currently favour a similar set-up to this. Short forced droop Injora shicks on the front and hybrid double barrel shock on the rear using standard /short SCX24 springs.also using the stock SCX24 shock ends on the double barrel shocks for a bit less bind.
Heck yeah! Glad you picked some up. They are a blast! Yeah my double barrels have the hot racing aluminum ends and the og vlp springs on them so they are super soft.
I use the shorter injora with the softer spring from the longer injora in forced droop for the front. Same travel as the longer injora with lower stance. Double barrels with the limiting chain/springs in that back
Yeah I’m not running limit straps 😆. I just hate them. I’ll have to play with the shorter ones. I’m running the shorts on my bronco but long on a couple others.
@@2fmrc The long/short parts aren't fully compatible. There are some differences in the internals on the short and long injura. For example the short shafts have a wider ID and wider spring that won't fit in the longer shock. IIRC the shorter shocks have longer travel in forced droop position then the longer injoras.
Good info . Still like the carisma .they seem way smoother than any I've tried
Fantastic video, thank you for explaining your setup, I dig it. Which sliders are those on the bronco, they look great!
Excellent! I appreciate you taking the time to explain and demonstrate the various options shown here in this video. Looks like I'll be ordering a few more sets of shock options to play with. Haha
Move the upper shock mount into the lowest body pin on the dead bolt 24 for example and the rear. Lowers idk 5mm roughly big help.
Yep I’ve done that also. Back when there were no other options for shocks we had to lol
Man I just figured this out with the hot racing shocks and wanted to check them out on RUclips to see if the guts were the similar on the injoras and see you figured this out already . I’ve seen all your videos but this one. I love this mod . Wish I saw it earlier wouldve saved me a lot of testing time haha
I’m always testing! I try to stay on top of it at least lol. Good stuff though huh?! I run these shocks on the front of almost all of mine now. Internal shocks with forced droop in the front with some sort of long travel rear.
I legit looked at my charger 🤣🤣🤣
Lol
This is really good info! I like it. I’m learning about set up & all that, I bought into the HR shocks & they suck. I’m definitely gonna give this ago! My set up works ok but the way you do it & explained it makes perfect sense.🤩👍🏼
I ordered 2 sets of them injora crawl masters brother appreciate the info and videos 🤙
I do this same thing on these shock but I put a tiny drop of rem oil or some other super thin oil in them. makes them have some damping an make the act more naturally
Nice! I’ll have to try a little oil in mine. Figured it would just leak out lol
@@2fmrcit pretty much just needs to coat the sidewalls so then can "seal" the white ring . I put like one very tiny drop of the rem oil .
i just swapped springs on some injora shocks i got and didn't like,try them you're way thx
well that changed everything 100% improvement using shocks i thought were no good. Amazing difference swapping out the front db shocks to injora forced droop awesome!
I've had the hot racing oil filled shocks I still haven't set them up yet I bought some 20 weight oil so should put them on today or so
I can’t find the Treal oil shocks anywhere on the internet… I’m guessing they’re discontinued? I’m definitely going to try the internal spring shock set up!
I use the OX motor and it's the best brush motor I've found so far. I've been using the OX motor for 1 to 2 years now no problems still going like new...
Yep! That’s my choice If staying brushed. I was sent a few torquebeast to try out but honestly I’ve just not had good luck with them. Id rather run my ox
@@2fmrc i run the injota 50 can in red and hot damn its strong. They came out with a pro version and its just purple but damn i want it lmao
@@NineNineCustoms yeah I have one of those red ones. Pretty solid motor. I haven’t ran it much cause I swapped out to test the next one but it seemed to be good while I was running it.
@@2fmrc solid choice for 13 bucks lol i have it in my 1 pound scale metal bronco lol pushes it over crawls no problem
just got these springs, taking your advice and installing them as I type!
Sweet! Let me know if they work out for ya!
@@2fmrc honestly came out pretty flawless, followed tour instructions to a tee. Jecracing Evo24 with a droop setup, still get plenty of articulation from with zero unloading. Only wish the barrel of the shock wasn't so BIG!
You really oughta checkout the spring mod. Can do the same thing with one spring on the regular shocks.
Think I know what you’re talking about but for me I like a soft spring and they normally don’t have the resistance to them to pull the shock back up as much as I like. Keeps it somewhat limited but not slammed like I run these. Unless I cut the spring super short and it usually still don’t keep the tension.
@@2fmrc
I went and got some tread tape to make a longer incline board. If I have anything worth reporting, I’ll be back. Hope you have a great day, Matt! Thanks for sharing!
@@2fmrc
Btw, I ordered a cheat code and just might have to try your setup here. Although, I resist in attempt to keep symmetry and other irrational reasonings, the short, controllable front with the long rear and the portals has got to be about the best setup for climbing. You don’t feel like it wants to dump you over the nose in decline? I’ll have to go back and watch your run footage. Just ordered, so I got time.
I have some desert lizards set up in full droop in my 1/10. Live them
I run those a lot also. Great shocks for the price and tons of tuning
RC4WD CVD axles arrived yesterday, broke first run today. I am done with scx24s, too many expensive problems with the design concept. 1/10 from now on. Thanks Matt and a last HEY to Liam.
Well I’ll just have to start posting up more of my 1/10 content I guess lol. Yeah hey really do need some design work. I’m hoping by the end of the yr they come out with a completely new design but I doubt it. These are still making them too much money to worry about that lol
I can’t lie this is a expensive hobby but I’m still thinking about how you broke ur axle..
@@Brisson. Thank you for your interest! I have switched out every component, carefully assembled and set EPA -20% on each throw, still destroys front axle(s) after an easy peasy pussy crawl! I used to run a Surpass monster motor (now a MOFO Nano-Beast) and never had axle problems despite total lack of EPA and hard crawling.
I don't mind spending money, I just love RC rock crawling and have had it with spending $20+ for a five minute run. ANY data, info, poop, etc. you could provide would be greatly appreciated. I am a retired old fart machinist (15+ years) mech. engineer (20+ years) and am baffled to comprehend what I am doing wrong.
Again thank you.
@@johnhrichak3451 ur welcome I guess lmao
@@2fmrc After dense study on hardenable stainless steel, Axles available are of alloys that are inexpensive and deleterious to our particular needs. Time for a manufacturer to step up and engineer a solution.
Man I love all your videos! I’ve used the same shocks on my bronco and on my Scythe build I use for competitions. Where can I get the rock sliders you are using on the bronco? I need to
Pick up a set of those.
I really appreciate that! I got them from Flubberstufferz and they are amazing! Not a bad price either imo
flubberstufferz.com/products/bronco-slicksliderz
Appreciate the explanation, I run the double barrel on all 4 and up front I get so much body separation up hill. Are you using the 40mm or the 32mm from injora?
32mm on the bronco and 40mm on the gray Injora body rig. I think I prefer the 40mm though honestly.
I noticed the bumper on your bronco is modified - it looks good and I bet does wonders for the approach angle. How'd you do that?
Yeah it’s much better! Here’s the vid where I show what I did.
SCX24 Bronco mods part 1 & free mod!
ruclips.net/video/4hCF2J8GQOM/видео.html
I wonder if there would be a way to do this to double barrels? Like a small spring inside and the normal spring outside????
Great idea with the injora shocks, I currently am running the RCAWD oil filled shocks but they are a bit to stiff and make my gladiator sit quite high. I still have the injora double barrels laying around, maybe I’ll try them on the back and the others on the front.
Great video as always really informative and enjoyable, keep it up :)
Try double barrels with stock shock springs, I really like it granted you don’t have a heavy body 😁
Sorry to bother you but I wanted to ask you a question about how you fixed your servo to the plate. I don't see any bracket for holding it down. Did you use double side tape. The servo looks like it's just floating on the plate. Thanks in advance.
No I just mounted through the bottom hole of the servo and it sits a little high because I just cut a stock servo mount to make it fit.
Great info bud! How about for trail rides tho, what do you recomend?
I don’t really have any trail trucks. My bronco is technically a trail truck and I still run this setup 😆
Hi mate. Thanks for the vids been learning a lot. I’ll be doing this spring mod!
Been trying to search your many vids on brushed motors for my Injora scx24 buggy build. It’s got brass 1.3inch wheels and links so if quiet heavy for a little rig. The Injora purple that works in my other builds is struggling to have the torque l need with the Injora esc and remote same as in one of your vids, I was going to get another simax motor but they are kinda nosy and lm trying to choose a good slow crawling motor with a little speed to get over things when you need it. Any recommendations to video to watch or motors to look at? Was considering the torquebeast. Thanks alot
Great vid, really helpful. Some sweet builds there too. Thanks 👍
Did I see a video where you did something similar in the double barrel injora shock?
Matt I have a modified c10 I’ve been using the fly sky noble and have configured the 4 wheel steering to b selected by tapping a switch to go thru the selections i have set my centers and endpoints and it works great but those cheap emax servos just don’t last long I think I need something with more power that’s a bit tougher as for a sxc24 it’s very heavy any suggestions
Without a doubt this servo here is what you need! Love them!
amzn.to/3wgZDal
Did you ever find a softer spring by any chance ?
On that gladiator, where’d you get the sliders?
Flubberstufferz they are great and not a bad price!
flubberstufferz.com/products/scx-24-gladiator-sliderz
Thank you so much for your time.
Hope you and the family are doing well and that you eat to much this weekend 😜. I'm doing a brisket and ribs can't wait.
Oh that sounds amazing! I’m working all wknd so not much going on here. I’ll party next wknd when I’m off for my 4 day wknd lol
@@2fmrc well the first bite of brisket and bite off my ribs is for ya. Hey I took and made a cover that fit the spare tire on the bronco and filled it with foam so I lost the weight on the rear but still have the look of the spare tire being on the rear
@@mikemangiameli561 nice! I was wanting to do something like that! I like the look of it back there but it’s a good amount of weight lol
@@2fmrc I agree I just use some foam from an old pillow
I only found these in 32 mm have you found some that are longer???
When doing this type of set-up, is it still worth doing a 4 link conversion or would it not make sense to do the 4 link?
I see injora has a 40mm internal shock now, have you tried it with that yet?
Yep! I run them on a few trucks. I recently put some springs inside the new ax24 shocks and they work great with this setup. Just gotta find the springs that fit inside of them.
Hello from southeast alaska. Nice truck bro
What would you recommend for the deadbolt up front?
So that works like the old man emu’s??
I can’t find the link to the truck stand you’re using!
how'd you get those wheels to stay on the hyrax? Mine just slip out easily after mounting.
On the brass wheels? Haven’t had any issues with those at all. My scramblers pop out of the Treal wheels all the time. Make sure the bead is washed and really clean of dirt or dust and it helps a bit but they still slip from time to time.
Have you tried the injora 40mm vs 32 mm shocks? From the picture they seem about the same articulation. And rod armature length.
They have roughly the same travel . I used the longer softer spring in the shorter shock to soften my forced droop.
Yes I’m using the 40mm on the gray rig and the shorter on my bronco. I linked them both now. Didn’t realize i hadn’t. I changed it. Thanks
What do you recommend best for a Drager set up? I went with the 43MM but it sits too high so I took the springs out to try droop set up but they feel like they bind half way when they’re under load and try and compress from the telescoping inside the shock. I’ve been curious about a double barrel I just haven’t tried them just cause I wonder if they’ll have the same issue or not.
Maybe the shorter 32mm ones? The double barrels will definitely bind if they aren’t completely straight in line from top to bottom. I haven’t had any issue with the internal spring shocks binding yet.
I know this is a long shot but do you remember where you got that yota hard body
They actually just rereleased them! It’s from a model kit. Got a new one that just came in.
retrohobby.com/amt-1-20-scale-1992-toyota-4x4-pickup-model-kit-amt1425/
Hey mate would this trick work on the oldmanemu’s
Hate limiting straps
Can I fill up with oil? And how?
Do you think there could be a way to put a spring inside the double barrel?
If you can find a small enough spring. I’ve wanted to put some inside some of my other shocks but can’t really get a small enough spring. Even a pen spring is too big and stiff lol
@@2fmrc what about a modified pen spring? Stretch it out and cut it?
@@gfyracing7632 the one I tried to stretch actually became slightly larger in diameter lol
I found some tiny springs on ebay to do this. Havent tested them yet
You could buy spring wire at a hobby shop and get a rod, like a drill bit, the size you need the spring to be. Heat the wire, wrap around the rod. Heat again and quench. Then toss it in a toaster oven to temper it to the firmness you want. BUT.....it'll take a whole bunch of time and tries to figure out what to quench in, at what heat/color to quench at. Then figure out what temp to temper it at and how long for the desired soft/firmness you want...... but if you're a dedicated mofo, it could be done. :D
But..... I think I'd be tempted to measure for what you need, O.D. and /or I.D. and check watch or clock building suppliers.
I tried that awhile back but you lose travel in the stock,
👍👍 great video
I was just looking at the injora website after watching this video and it looks like they may of changed the design so you can't do this mod. I'm just curious if they did before I order them
If that's the case, see if it has a new part#. Hit amazon or other online places to see if they have the old part# in stock to order. :)
@@wingnutbert9685 everywhere I've checked looks to be a different design in pictures where the upper cap is part of the shock body so you can't have the spring pulling down.. the 40mm shocks look like you can buy the 32mm look different.. just looking to see if I'm wrong based on pictures of the shocks online before ordering
@@The96civicrider Just looked at Injora's site and yes, definitely looks like the 40's would come apart both ends, but the 32's look to be machined as one piece. From a manufacturing standpoint, that seems really odd. Maybe Matt can chime in and confirm his 32's are, in fact, Injora's or an off brand copy, maybe.
Had a bit of a cruise through the web and didn't see any of the 32's good, bad, or ugly, that had tops you could unscrew and inset springs in, unless you went up to 1/10th.
Perfect 👍😎👍 ~~~!!!!!!
congrats on 1k instagram followers ;)
Thanks so much!