What I don't understand is the string has to be at a certain tension to tune it to the note so how can it have more tension or less tension it still has to be tuned to a certain note if you put the stop bar down for more tension don't the note go higher I'm just asking cuz I don't know
This video was pure gold for me and I tried an adjustment immediately to test it out. Certainly eases the string tension for less stress in playing. Additionally, I cannot count the number of guitars I have viewed for sale on second-hand auction sites (here in NZ) where someone had had a go at those Stopbar bolts and created some disfigurement that is very off-putting and sends a signal of lack of care?Finally, some great comments below and some good humour, however, why do some people have to use RUclips to vent their negativity and rudeness that is evident here.
Hi BFM! Thank you for your kind and polite comments. These mistakes were made some 20+ years ago. I point out my youthful errors so others avoid doing the same. Too, installing replacements parts are on my to do list. Thanks again. Write anytime. :-)
My les paul keep unwinding the high E string from the ball end in the little hole where it goes through on the stopbar. I can't tune it to pitch because the moment i do a bend the string just unwinds a little bit and goes out of tune. After that it just goes to hell. Can't be retuned without it slowly unwinding. Any help?
Use a thin cloth such as microfiber or fold a paper towel as a guard and use a flat head driver to prevent any scratches whilst adjusting bridge , tailpiece etc
I use a coin held by a pair of pliers so I can raise the bar up and and down while the strings are under tension. It makes it a lot easier and doesn't mess up the slots on the posts.
If you keep breaking strings at the bridge, especially if it's on one string, check your bridge saddles. You might have so nearly invisible burrs on the finish which are literally filing your strings until they break. A few gentle strokes of a key file will eliminate the burrs and stop the breakage. Had a acoustic guitar with that problem years ago and after filing, never broke another string again.
Are you able easily access the intonation screws with the stop tail at that height? Man, I wish Gibson could consider duplicating the Larry Carlton hardware schematics on their 2pc bridge assembly models
Got a new guitar with this and I perceived it to be too high. Didn't know the first thing about it. This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
The unique thing about the Gibson product is the angled Head Stock. I think for Balance purposes, the strings to Stop Bar angle should be the same as the Head Stock.
You must loosen the strings to make the adjustment. After that, you can use your stick because all the preload has been relieved. You can also use a screwdriver then because it will turn very easily and you will not damage the screw. Think about it. If you have 6 strings trying to pull sideways on the stop bar screws, they will be loaded sideways, making them hard to turn. Loosen the strings, the sideways loading is gone !
StewMac sells a screwdriver specifically for this purposes. With it, you can adjust the tailpiece without having to loose tension or worry about ruining the tailpiece. I've had mine for 15+ years. Worth the investment.
what a great but highly overlooked tip. I just wrapped the tip of a screwdriver with isolation tape and adjusted the tailpiece height with no damage. Thanks a lot, cheers from Brazil.
If you must use screwdriver, get one big enough to cover most of the slot and wrap the tip with painters or masking tape. I've learned the hard way too... Lol
So recently u got gibson 2013 sgj and few days ago i started hearing buzz without amp from pressing 5th and 6th strings And it happens only from 1st fret until 8-9th Its a bit annoying any clue how to fix it
Thanks for the tip! I'm just learning about setting up my guitar. I took mine to a pro for set-up. He left the stop bar turned all the way down. I was having a lot of problems staying in tune. Now I've raised it quite a bit and cleared the back of the bridge. MUCH better! Less sustain? Not to my ear.
I used a screwdriver and I cannon find a replacement. Does anyone know where I can find new screws. I have an epiphone standard plus top pro. Anything will help:).
Thanks! It’s really helped loosen the tension on my LP, so much so I can string 11s and get a real slinky feel. It’s pretty high now tho, so I’m deliberating whether or not to lower it and top wrap...
I lay a guitar cloth over it and use the back of a butter knife to turn it if it's up to pitch. Never leaves a mark. I used to chew 'em up pretty bad also in the old days.
Gunsmith screwdrivers were created to prevent just that kind of destructive "buggering" on the stopbar screws. They are not tapered like household screwdrivers, i.e. the profile is flat and snugly fits in the screw slot. An inexpensive yet adequate set of gunsmith screwdrivers is less than $20, and if you're like me, you will discover multiple uses for them, in addition to guitars and guns.
If you use a LARGE screwdriver on the stop-bar screws, it won't damage the soft metal. You can put washers, or specially made spacers, under stop bar so it locks down at any height...
About the marring of your stop bar mounting bolts, replacement mounting bolts are pretty inexpensive and readily available. I have replaced mine more than once over the years when I wore the finish off of them. It's a very simple swap that improves the guitars appearance remarkably. You might want to consider just swapping those mangled ones out for some new ones and make an already very pretty guitar even prettier once again... ;-)
I wish there was some sort of editor reviewing crap like this before it gets published! Guess one should read comments on unknown sources before watching a video. 1) On a string tuned to pitch the tension is the same from tuning machine to tailpiece unless there is binding at the nut or the bridge. 2) Use a proper size screwdriver that has a good blade on it (not bent, dinged, rounded, etc) on the bolt, detune the strings to release tension on the tailpiece and you will be fine.
An angle to the base of the stopbar has greater length than a straight line to the top. Therefore a raised stopbar has a shorter overall string length. Even saddles too far back when doing intonation will change (height, distance) and therefore tension.
I'd like to know what magical angle adjustments are recommended for guitars with "string through" designs What about wrap around bridges The angles on Fender string through fixed bridges are right on about 90 degrees It occurs to me increased string tension could only result in incorrect sharp tuning If your high E is tuned to correct pitch and you then increase the angle at the stop bar tail and then retune to correct E tuned pitch the string tension between the nut and the bridge saddles are the same
Great points on the Stop Tail Piece. My understanding is if the tail piece is set too low (especially if bottomed out) it can make adjusting the intonation difficult and inaccurate at times. A guitar tech told me that info. Not sure if that is true or not as I don't keep my LP guitar tail piece set low to the body. I'd be interested if you think that info is true or not. Thanks. Phil NYC Area
Hi Uptown! Thanks for your inquiry. Although I have not experienced this personally, it seems to make much sense. For me, if the stings are rubbing against the backside of the bridge, then that's a point of friction...which would seem to interfere with string bending, tuning and intonation.
Trying to share a simple perspective with the community prior to the invention of the stop tailpiece there was something I believe known as a claw which held the strings and was attached to the butt end of the guitar where the rear strap button is located the claw maintained an angle from the rear of the guitar to the tune omatic Bridge the height of the tune-o-matic Bridge maintains a correct distance from the fretboard in relation to the neck set the claw maintained correct angle from the tune-o-matic bridge to the rear base of the guitar with the invention of the stop tailpiece people were top rapping to maintain the correct angle of the claw and avoid the strings coming in contact with the rear of the tune omatic Bridge the claw angle is important to maintain
Stop bar set down to the body break strings on the bridge more often. Screwdriver is the correct tool, not ice cream stick. You need to remove tension from the stings before adjusting and you will not mar the screw heads. Some good advice and some I would have disagree with, thank for posting video, it is helpful advice. Stop bar is often overlooked. If you go over the stop bar with the strings and not through, it is a good idea to screw the stop bar down all the way.
Have you noticed that it makes a difference in ton when the string touches the upper part of the stringhole in your stoptail piece ? I tried that out and I noticed a harsh overtone ...So I set the angle back that only the ballend get in contact to the tail piece ! Can you confirm this experience?
Raising the stop bar could allow the strings to vibrate from the bridge to the stop bar. This is why some string manufacturers wrap thread around the ball end of their strings. The wound thread is to prevent the strings from vibrating.
tooslimforford Its late, but this is my experience too. I noticed that sharp overtone after mounting roller saddles on the bridge. The string can vibrate more behind roller, so the effect of the tailpiece is hearable. Will try thin plastic tubing to isolate the strings from the tailpiece, and have it screwed tight to the body (...momentarly a clear coat has to dry first...)
Can someone explain to me why on all Gibson Custom Shop models, you're either to floor the stop bar and still have clearance at the tail piece - but on Standard models you need to always have the stopbar raised up to get that clearance?
Just use a slotted screwdriver that actually fits in the slot correctly, he he! Many people use the wrong size screwdrivers all the time. Usually who cares if it slips out and dings something. But when it comes to guitars we all care about not dinging anything, so please just use a screwdriver that fits perfectly and it will not slip out, nor shall it chew up the edge of the slot like you did. The Machinist Handbook dedicates over 200 pages for the design of screws and screw heads. It's good to understand that just as there are many different sizes of screwdrivers-it follows that there are many different size slots that the screwdriver needs to fit properly into to avoid slipping out under force and then damaging things. Also use the appropriate amount of force when tightening or loosing any thing with threads, which in this example is not very much. Lastly the height of the stop bar in relation to the height of the saddles is important for another reason. If the string is at the wrong angle you may hear a "sitar" like sound, which normally you would not want. So yes you need to play around with the setup until the open strings ring true with no after "sitar" overtones. I know as I have a sitar as well as many guitars that utilize a stop bar. My new Gibson SG STD 2017 HP came set up poorly with the treble side of the stop bar screwed all the way down and yes it sounded like my sitar-that is just not what I wanted at all. Peter
String tension is created between the tuners, and the tail piece, period. Pitch is determined between the nut, and the bridge. Slack, is what makes a string harder, or easier, to bend, and the stop bar has zero effect on slack, period. It is determined by gauge, tuning, and scale length. Use some basic common sense. By your logic, you would not be able to bend the strings at all with string thru body designs. How do so many of you arm-chair techs, have not even a rudimentary grasp on simple mechanics, and 3rd grade physics?
That is a wider Gibson tuneomatic ... maybe 70 ' s. I use washers under stop to compromise. This way it is higher but contact to body is there. Personal preference. I'm not pro one way or the other but after 40 years I know sustain improvement. Top wrap - fine. It's just a stop bar, easily replaceable. It will dull anyway with playing.
the problem with a higher tail stop is...the higher it is the more leverage and pressure forced into the inserts...i have a hard time buying into the higher or lower tension theory because to me it never changes, because the string is always tightened up the same amount(in tune) therefore tension isnt different...however greater break angle will causing a higher degree of metal fatigue where the string contacts the bridge and I would think causes a condition that may break strings more often
Gibson classics, standards, and Gibson Custom Shop all come with the tail piece all the way down. That might tell you something...unless your position is that the Gibson Custom Shop doesn't know what they're doing with Les Pauls.
Hi Ian! That is NOT my position any more than it would be to believe Marshall, Fender, Ignator, Blackstar, Mesa don't know what they're doing since their amps are delivered with controls set at zero!
Just when you thought we've had enough of what brand of strings, what gauge, what material, and what height your action should be, we now have how high the stopbar should be. It seems to me the tension of the strings depends on size, scale length and if using standard tuning or not. And the scale length would be the distance from the nut to the saddles, right? So I adjust my stopbar up a little from the bottom, so the strings clear the back of the bridge, and have a clear path to the saddles. He doesn't show that very well here, nor do I see any adjusting being done, though that's the title. Good thing this only wasted 3 1/2 minutes of time.
The real problem with that is if you "pull down" too hard it will bend your bridge down. It takes a while but you should always look at the BOTTOM of your bridge to see if it's bowed downward....I've seen a lot like that.
I have an Idea why not just use the right size screwdriver? One that the deivers blade fits perfectly and that is wide enough? Then you wouldn't have to use a awkward popsicle stick as a screwdriver. Lol Grandpa always said use the right tool for the right job.
I'm not sure I understand why people feel cranking the stop bar all the way down to the body affects tone. It seems to me this could only be true on a hollow body guitar played unplugged. Isn't 'tone' a function of the pickup and electronics? I think it would affect sustain more than anything because a tighter string would return to it's resting state sooner; decreasing the amount of time it rings.
it's not that simple. real life physics have a lot more variables. a tighter string returns to resting state sooner if you remove the fretboard from the equation. looser strings, once they hit the fretboard with their greater arc, lose a lot of energy and die even sooner. tone is a function of many things. tighter coupling certainly makes the EQ brighter and more focused.
1. Knock off copy guitar. 2. bridge is in backwards according to factory spec. 3. E,B,G intonation digits spun around. (unwounds) 4. popcicle stick? (lame ish) 5. why do we smell bs?
Lol. I hardly ever have a problem marring up a screw especially the screws on a tail piece. You must have totally over tightened the screws and or used a wrong size screwdriver blade. You laughed like the people that dosen't use a popsicle stick as a screwdriver is stupid or something. Its the other way around as first you use the right tool for the job meaning the correct size screwdriver. One that fits perfectly and having a wide blade. Which yours clearly did not.
Oh NO! Marred the screw??!! I'll run straight to the guitar store and get a new o....oh NO!!! my TIRES are chewed up from the ROADS!!! BRRRRAAAAUUUGHHH!!!! Lol, j/k dude, nice video, good info, thanks.
you're an idiot. tires are meant to sustain wear. the adjustable side of a screw or a bolt is not meant to take any damage, that's why you have different tool sizes.
Graph Tech ResoMax Tune-o-matic Bridge with String Saver Saddles ☝️HIGHLY recommended with a graphtech "black tusk " nut👍 The best upgrade to start with for a Les Paul Guitar.
What I don't understand is the string has to be at a certain tension to tune it to the note so how can it have more tension or less tension it still has to be tuned to a certain note if you put the stop bar down for more tension don't the note go higher I'm just asking cuz I don't know
Thanks for your comment. The idea is that there is less downward pressure on the bridge so the strings glide easier.
This video was pure gold for me and I tried an adjustment immediately to test it out. Certainly eases the string tension for less stress in playing. Additionally, I cannot count the number of guitars I have viewed for sale on second-hand auction sites (here in NZ) where someone had had a go at those Stopbar bolts and created some disfigurement that is very off-putting and sends a signal of lack of care?Finally, some great comments below and some good humour, however, why do some people have to use RUclips to vent their negativity and rudeness that is evident here.
Hi BFM! Thank you for your kind and polite comments. These mistakes were made some 20+ years ago. I point out my youthful errors so others avoid doing the same. Too, installing replacements parts are on my to do list. Thanks again. Write anytime. :-)
My les paul keep unwinding the high E string from the ball end in the little hole where it goes through on the stopbar. I can't tune it to pitch because the moment i do a bend the string just unwinds a little bit and goes out of tune. After that it just goes to hell. Can't be retuned without it slowly unwinding. Any help?
Thank you for your question. Ernie Ball makes reinforced strings where the wrap is, well, reinforced to help prevent the ball-end wrap from unwinding.
Use a thin cloth such as microfiber or fold a paper towel as a guard and use a flat head driver to prevent any scratches whilst adjusting bridge , tailpiece etc
I use a quarter and wrap it in cloth like a t-shirt to adjust it, no harm to the posts and works perfectly.
I use a coin held by a pair of pliers so I can raise the bar up and and down while the strings are under tension. It makes it a lot easier and doesn't mess up the slots on the posts.
My strings break a lot at the bridge. I'll adjust up the stop bar and see if it helps.
If you keep breaking strings at the bridge, especially if it's on one string, check your bridge saddles. You might have so nearly invisible burrs on the finish which are literally filing your strings until they break. A few gentle strokes of a key file will eliminate the burrs and stop the breakage. Had a acoustic guitar with that problem years ago and after filing, never broke another string again.
Are you able easily access the intonation screws with the stop tail at that height? Man, I wish Gibson could consider duplicating the Larry Carlton hardware schematics on their 2pc bridge assembly models
Got a new guitar with this and I perceived it to be too high. Didn't know the first thing about it. This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
Thanks for letting me know! You are welcome! 😊👍
The unique thing about the Gibson product is the angled Head Stock.
I think for Balance purposes, the strings to Stop Bar angle should be the same as the Head Stock.
You must loosen the strings to make the adjustment. After that, you can use your stick because all the preload has been relieved. You can also use a screwdriver then because it will turn very easily and you will not damage the screw. Think about it. If you have 6 strings trying to pull sideways on the stop bar screws, they will be loaded sideways, making them hard to turn. Loosen the strings, the sideways loading is gone !
StewMac sells a screwdriver specifically for this purposes. With it, you can adjust the tailpiece without having to loose tension or worry about ruining the tailpiece. I've had mine for 15+ years. Worth the investment.
what a great but highly overlooked tip. I just wrapped the tip of a screwdriver with isolation tape and adjusted the tailpiece height with no damage. Thanks a lot, cheers from Brazil.
Easy to just use the proper screw driver.
Good stuff!
Does this really work? I don't understand why. Hows the physics work?
There's less downward pressure over the bridge. 🤥
If you must use screwdriver, get one big enough to cover most of the slot and wrap the tip with painters or masking tape. I've learned the hard way too... Lol
BunkMasterFlex77 you scratched the finish of your guitar didnt you
uhm dont tell me you didnt back off the tension before screwing the tailstop down
So recently u got gibson 2013 sgj and few days ago i started hearing buzz without amp
from pressing 5th and 6th strings
And it happens only from 1st fret until 8-9th
Its a bit annoying any clue how to fix it
Often times that may be a truss rod that is slightly too tight. Try backing it off in 1/8 turn increments. Hope this works for you!
Thanks for the tip! I'm just learning about setting up my guitar. I took mine to a pro for set-up. He left the stop bar turned all the way down. I was having a lot of problems staying in tune. Now I've raised it quite a bit and cleared the back of the bridge. MUCH better! Less sustain? Not to my ear.
quarter coin woks well
6bender Yep! Quarters work perfectly. I just got done adjusting my stoptail on my sg with one.
I used a screwdriver and I cannon find a replacement. Does anyone know where I can find new screws. I have an epiphone standard plus top pro. Anything will help:).
Check on eBay or even try to get a hold of the people at Epiphone !
I raised the tailpiece and now I feel more tension on the strings. Is that normal?
Thanks! It’s really helped loosen the tension on my LP, so much so I can string 11s and get a real slinky feel. It’s pretty high now tho, so I’m deliberating whether or not to lower it and top wrap...
Changing the string angle over the bridge does nothing to string tension. Only break angle. Pitch tension is the same.
My Les Paul is awesome but the high E is such a pain to bend compared to the other strings and other guitars. If I raise the stop bar will this help?
It may. Give it a try! 😊
I lay a guitar cloth over it and use the back of a butter knife to turn it if it's up to pitch. Never leaves a mark. I used to chew 'em up pretty bad also in the old days.
M Davis: Thank you for your comment. We have traveled similar roads it seems.
A thick guitar pick is also a good tool for adjusting the tailpiece.
If you have a roller bridge is there any disadvantage to bolting it down?
True, I raised my bar up and string bending notes are easier to get. Never heard of it before and found out by trial and error.
Imaginary.
The popsicle stick screwdriver is literal genius
Gunsmith screwdrivers were created to prevent just that kind of destructive "buggering" on the stopbar screws. They are not tapered like household screwdrivers, i.e. the profile is flat and snugly fits in the screw slot. An inexpensive yet adequate set of gunsmith screwdrivers is less than $20, and if you're like me, you will discover multiple uses for them, in addition to guitars and guns.
Do you have one for sale maybe.....? the screwdriver of course ! Sounds very handy to me ! )
Except the string tension remains the same given they have to be to achieve a 440 tune...
Thank you for commenting. Which would be easier to bend: a long thick string or a short thin string if both tuned to the same pitch?
@@guitarhowtos2148 Stop bar adjustment doesn't change string size or thickness, so your question is illogical.
that's what i was thinking... same string gauge and scale length tuned to same pitch - what difference would the break angle make??
@@globalnova -0-
@@globalnova Less friction.
Hi there!
So what could be the adequate height for the tailpiece?
As high as it can go!!
Down for a more snappy funky sound, up for a more bluesy, loose sound.
A quarter will work too to turn the screws
If you use a LARGE screwdriver on the stop-bar screws, it won't damage the soft metal. You can put washers, or specially made spacers, under stop bar so it locks down at any height...
The stick will fit an actual Gibson .. the Chibsons are too small for the ice cream stick
Thanks, this is the way I adjusted my stopbar based on the strings size I was using, lower for 10's higher for 12's.
About the marring of your stop bar mounting bolts, replacement mounting bolts are pretty inexpensive and readily available. I have replaced mine more than once over the years when I wore the finish off of them. It's a very simple swap that improves the guitars appearance remarkably. You might want to consider just swapping those mangled ones out for some new ones and make an already very pretty guitar even prettier once again... ;-)
I wish there was some sort of editor reviewing crap like this before it gets published! Guess one should read comments on unknown sources before watching a video.
1) On a string tuned to pitch the tension is the same from tuning machine to tailpiece unless there is binding at the nut or the bridge.
2) Use a proper size screwdriver that has a good blade on it (not bent, dinged, rounded, etc) on the bolt, detune the strings to release tension on the tailpiece and you will be fine.
An angle to the base of the stopbar has greater length than a straight line to the top. Therefore a raised stopbar has a shorter overall string length. Even saddles too far back when doing intonation will change (height, distance) and therefore tension.
@@plinkbottle Wrong.
I'd like to know what magical angle adjustments are recommended for guitars with "string through" designs
What about wrap around bridges
The angles on Fender string through fixed bridges are right on about 90 degrees
It occurs to me increased string tension could only result in incorrect sharp tuning
If your high E is tuned to correct pitch and you then increase the angle at the stop bar tail and then retune to correct E tuned pitch the string tension between the nut and the bridge saddles are the same
Does anyone body know how to adjust a bigsby b70 on a EPP iPhone wildkat way to stiff and hard would like it a lot softer
Great points on the Stop Tail Piece.
My understanding is if the tail piece is set too low (especially if bottomed out) it can make adjusting the intonation difficult and inaccurate at times. A guitar tech told me that info. Not sure if that is true or not as I don't keep my LP guitar tail piece set low to the body. I'd be interested if you think that info is true or not. Thanks.
Phil
NYC Area
Hi Uptown! Thanks for your inquiry. Although I have not experienced this personally, it seems to make much sense. For me, if the stings are rubbing against the backside of the bridge, then that's a point of friction...which would seem to interfere with string bending, tuning and intonation.
Stack two .88mm bass pick together, works perfect
Yeah but who decks the TP and doesn't top wrap?!
Me. Sometimes.
Trying to share a simple perspective with the community prior to the invention of the stop tailpiece there was something I believe known as a claw which held the strings and was attached to the butt end of the guitar where the rear strap button is located the claw maintained an angle from the rear of the guitar to the tune omatic Bridge the height of the tune-o-matic Bridge maintains a correct distance from the fretboard in relation to the neck set the claw maintained correct angle from the tune-o-matic bridge to the rear base of the guitar with the invention of the stop tailpiece people were top rapping to maintain the correct angle of the claw and avoid the strings coming in contact with the rear of the tune omatic Bridge the claw angle is important to maintain
This is exactly what I was looking for. Don't understand why 7 people don't like it. Thanks very much.
Stop bar set down to the body break strings on the bridge more often. Screwdriver is the correct tool, not ice cream stick. You need to remove tension from the stings before adjusting and you will not mar the screw heads. Some good advice and some I would have disagree with, thank for posting video, it is helpful advice. Stop bar is often overlooked. If you go over the stop bar with the strings and not through, it is a good idea to screw the stop bar down all the way.
Why did I smell cigarettes when I clicked on this
I thought it was the joker from batman
Your boyfriend was giving you the reach around. ..
@@jimmymarlen6058 I thought it was Howard Wolowitz
U cant smell anything from the video or screen it dont work that way
you can file the screwdriver marks , gently , using a nail file .
Finally something about the stop bar! Thank you!!! 😄
Happy to help!
Have you noticed that it makes a difference in ton when the string touches the upper part of the stringhole in your stoptail piece ?
I tried that out and I noticed a harsh overtone ...So I set the angle back that only the ballend get in contact to the tail piece ! Can you confirm this experience?
Raising the stop bar could allow the strings to vibrate from the bridge to the stop bar. This is why some string manufacturers wrap thread around the ball end of their strings. The wound thread is to prevent the strings from vibrating.
tooslimforford
Its late, but this is my experience too. I noticed that sharp overtone after mounting roller saddles on the bridge. The string can vibrate more behind roller, so the effect of the tailpiece is hearable. Will try thin plastic tubing to isolate the strings from the tailpiece, and have it screwed tight to the body (...momentarly a clear coat has to dry first...)
Can someone explain to me why on all Gibson Custom Shop models, you're either to floor the stop bar and still have clearance at the tail piece - but on Standard models you need to always have the stopbar raised up to get that clearance?
Good point!
Just use a slotted screwdriver that actually fits in the slot correctly, he he! Many people use the wrong size screwdrivers all the time. Usually who cares if it slips out and dings something. But when it comes to guitars we all care about not dinging anything, so please just use a screwdriver that fits perfectly and it will not slip out, nor shall it chew up the edge of the slot like you did.
The Machinist Handbook dedicates over 200 pages for the design of screws and screw heads. It's good to understand that just as there are many different sizes of screwdrivers-it follows that there are many different size slots that the screwdriver needs to fit properly into to avoid slipping out under force and then damaging things.
Also use the appropriate amount of force when tightening or loosing any thing with threads, which in this example is not very much.
Lastly the height of the stop bar in relation to the height of the saddles is important for another reason. If the string is at the wrong angle you may hear a "sitar" like sound, which normally you would not want. So yes you need to play around with the setup until the open strings ring true with no after "sitar" overtones. I know as I have a sitar as well as many guitars that utilize a stop bar.
My new Gibson SG STD 2017 HP came set up poorly with the treble side of the stop bar screwed all the way down and yes it sounded like my sitar-that is just not what I wanted at all.
Peter
String tension is created between the tuners, and the tail piece, period.
Pitch is determined between the nut, and the bridge.
Slack, is what makes a string harder, or easier, to bend, and the stop bar has zero effect on slack, period.
It is determined by gauge, tuning, and scale length.
Use some basic common sense.
By your logic, you would not be able to bend the strings at all with string thru body designs.
How do so many of you arm-chair techs, have not even a rudimentary grasp on simple mechanics, and 3rd grade physics?
I use a quarter.
I use an air chisel, works every time
That is a wider Gibson tuneomatic ... maybe 70 ' s. I use washers under stop to compromise. This way it is higher but contact to body is there.
Personal preference. I'm not pro one way or the other but after 40 years I know sustain improvement. Top wrap - fine. It's just a stop bar, easily replaceable. It will dull anyway with playing.
the problem with a higher tail stop is...the higher it is the more leverage and pressure forced into the inserts...i have a hard time buying into the higher or lower tension theory because to me it never changes, because the string is always tightened up the same amount(in tune) therefore tension isnt different...however greater break angle will causing a higher degree of metal fatigue where the string contacts the bridge and I would think causes a condition that may break strings more often
The higher the tail apparently it makes your guitar sound darker the lower it is the more treble and thin sounding your guitar tone becomes
Stop Tailpiece Wrench from stewmac is what you need!
Left or Right handed?
Gibson classics, standards, and Gibson Custom Shop all come with the tail piece all the way down. That might tell you something...unless your position is that the Gibson Custom Shop doesn't know what they're doing with Les Pauls.
Hi Ian! That is NOT my position any more than it would be to believe Marshall, Fender, Ignator, Blackstar, Mesa don't know what they're doing since their amps are delivered with controls set at zero!
@@guitarhowtos2148 Well said.
Pretty clear for me. Very interesting to learn about the subject. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Thanks
90s Sheraton II ftw
Great Tip !
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
Just when you thought we've had enough of what brand of strings, what gauge, what material, and what height your action should be, we now have how high the stopbar should be. It seems to me the tension of the strings depends on size, scale length and if using standard tuning or not. And the scale length would be the distance from the nut to the saddles, right? So I adjust my stopbar up a little from the bottom, so the strings clear the back of the bridge, and have a clear path to the saddles. He doesn't show that very well here, nor do I see any adjusting being done, though that's the title. Good thing this only wasted 3 1/2 minutes of time.
The real problem with that is if you "pull down" too hard it will bend your bridge down. It takes a while but you should always look at the BOTTOM of your bridge to see if it's bowed downward....I've seen a lot like that.
Yep using my fingers is what i also did on my first time
🙃
The tension remains the same regardless of the angle. I do think it's a good idea to clear the body of the bridge though.
Chiefline that's exactly what I said. I didn't realize that people thought that until I watched this video
IIf the tension remains the same. Why clear the Bridge ?
@@metalinl-a1128 Because its another area that can cause tuning issues
It did works for me, It feels pretty slinky now,I thought the same way as you, until I tried it.
I have an Idea why not just use the right size screwdriver? One that the deivers blade fits perfectly and that is wide enough? Then you wouldn't have to use a awkward popsicle stick as a screwdriver. Lol Grandpa always said use the right tool for the right job.
Thanks for the tip
Couldnt agree more.
Thanks!!!
"COMPLETE GUITAR MAINTENANCE USING ONLY A POPSICLE STICK".
Very interesting, thank you!
good
Enough with the popsicle
"Probably not true." Way to commit.
I'm not sure I understand why people feel cranking the stop bar all the way down to the body affects tone. It seems to me this could only be true on a hollow body guitar played unplugged. Isn't 'tone' a function of the pickup and electronics? I think it would affect sustain more than anything because a tighter string would return to it's resting state sooner; decreasing the amount of time it rings.
it's not that simple. real life physics have a lot more variables. a tighter string returns to resting state sooner if you remove the fretboard from the equation. looser strings, once they hit the fretboard with their greater arc, lose a lot of energy and die even sooner. tone is a function of many things. tighter coupling certainly makes the EQ brighter and more focused.
That’s a popsicle stick. SMH
1. Knock off copy guitar.
2. bridge is in backwards according to factory spec.
3. E,B,G intonation digits spun around. (unwounds)
4. popcicle stick? (lame ish)
5. why do we smell bs?
BUY IT HERE :@t
Lol. I hardly ever have a problem marring up a screw especially the screws on a tail piece. You must have totally over tightened the screws and or used a wrong size screwdriver blade. You laughed like the people that dosen't use a popsicle stick as a screwdriver is stupid or something. Its the other way around as first you use the right tool for the job meaning the correct size screwdriver. One that fits perfectly and having a wide blade. Which yours clearly did not.
( good looks are for gals}
i use a coin
Oh NO! Marred the screw??!! I'll run straight to the guitar store and get a new o....oh NO!!! my TIRES are chewed up from the ROADS!!! BRRRRAAAAUUUGHHH!!!! Lol, j/k dude, nice video, good info, thanks.
you're an idiot. tires are meant to sustain wear. the adjustable side of a screw or a bolt is not meant to take any damage, that's why you have different tool sizes.
Graph Tech ResoMax Tune-o-matic Bridge with String Saver Saddles
☝️HIGHLY recommended
with a graphtech "black tusk " nut👍
The best upgrade to start with for a Les Paul Guitar.
Always use "correct" tool man, if not sure, google it and be a responsible person
I use a Quarter.
Thankyou for the tip